Rotary Table Centring, the fast way - Quick Tip
2023 ж. 12 Қыр.
10 220 Рет қаралды
Another in the quick tip videos this one showing how to set up the rotary table to the centre of your illing machine. This tip I showed in the Stuart S50 build but it's worth doing it own video.
Machining can be dangerous if you copy me do so at your own risk, thanks for watching.
A quick tip for a “quick solution”. Perfect 👏👏👍😀
Cheers Andrew
nice tip. thanks for sharing
Cheers DK
👍😎👍
How do you stop the more taper from locking in the rotary table bore. If it does do you have to take it off to knock it out from the base
When you press it into the rotary taper it's not being pressed in to hard but enough to hold it in and once the table is bolted down then as you lift the quill back up the collet will pull it back out, give it a try, works for me everytime, cheers.
Have you tried a simple piece of 16mm ground rod with a small corner radius on the end? It locates nicely in the taper.
Yes you can and it works well, I have a similar 1 nocking about somwhere, but I use the taper I made for other jobs, You can set it in the collet chuck of the lathe and use it to set the angle on the top slide so its easy to use for this to instesd of having 2 tools. The other reason is if the rod is not quite true in the collet the rotary table could be off but as you push the taper into the table it squares up in the collet so you know it is spot on, cheers
@@mattsbitsnbobsworkshop2433 I see, I did not consider that if the taper is not running true in the collet the rotary table bore will automatically true it up. I do prefer one ground diameter without any concentricity issues compared with two that aren't ground together.
What I was meaning out of true was your ground rod or my taper, (collets are not 100% so unless you clock it every time) the taper of the rotary can't pull the rod back but it can pull the taper back making this more accurate for me in practice, but as I always say, what works for you is the best, cheers
What mill are you using? Looks exctly like my Arboga EM825, the same coordinate table, same hand wheels etc. My Arboga just doesn´t have power feed.
It's the U2508 with optional power feed, bit bigger than the EM825 but looks very similar and share some of the same parts. As you will know, Arbogas are nice to use, cheers
@@mattsbitsnbobsworkshop2433 And I just noted another machine that we have in common, the Clarkson Tool Grinder. I bought mine in the nineties, it was stuck when I bought it from a bankrupt company. I thought it had rusted stuck but it turned out that all lubricants had hardened and it probably hadn´t even been used at all since new or just been used very little the first years. Unfortunately, it doesn´t have any accessories, it´s just the machine itself. It also suffers from that well known "Shed Rust", just as yours. 😞 Anyway, I had to subscribe. Thumbs up!
This ones done a fair bit of work, but not worn badly in any way apart from the shed rust, but its nice and dry now, its not bad when the lube is hard, its a good start abd you should have a good machine.
Forgot to say here is some tooling ideas for the Arboga kzhead.info/sun/pKdtZ8Z_qnWgqps/bejne.html
@@mattsbitsnbobsworkshop2433 Thanks! I have actually seen that video but I added some more information for member "@siebelen3183" that asked about the dimensions for that nut that holds the chuck. I have that nut and that "open washer" to hold the drill chucks, just like you. But I also have other tools that uses the nut such as 22/27 mm face mill arbors and an ER40 collet chuck and an MT3 arbor head. I turned 60 mm "rings" and mounted those on the MT3 tapers to be able to lock the tools with the nut. This is another way of locking the tools to the machine. Also, an MT3 taper has more rigidity than the MT2. Propbably not a problem at all on an arbor head but might be an issue for a face mill or a collet chuck with a big (up to 32 mm) mill. Another tip, or actually a mistake: I found and bought a one-piece drill chuck/arbor on Ebay. Having a chuck and arbor in one piece seemed like a very good idea as it would mean less runout and improved rigidity. And the run-out is about half as much as on my other Jacobs chucks. But it turned out to be shorter, and the difference is where that "open washer" is meant to be, making it impossible to lock the chuck really good to the spindle. Still a good product, I just haven´t outsmarted it yet but I will some day. Probably a rainy day. 🙂