2nd gen 3.0 TDI ALL Issues (Audi, VW, Porsche)
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Issues of the second generation 3.0 TDI V6 diesel engine available in the Audi A4 (B8), Audi A5 (8T), Audi A6 (C7), Audi A7 (C7), Audi A8 (D4), Audi Q5 (8R), Audi Q7 (4L), VW Touareg 7P, Porsche Cayenne, Porsche Panamera
The second generation 3.0 TDI was available in two version - a widely known common older and a newer updated. I call the updated version a 3rd generation 3.0 TDI. But in this video you will see all the common problems of the older 2nd gen 3.0 TDI version only.
3.0 TDI V6 diesel engine common problems
0:00 - Intro & 2 versions
1:34 - Issues general
2:42 - ALL LEAKS
5:32 - Timing chain
7:30 - Other stuff
8:29 - Head gasket / Cyl. head
9:15 - Injectors
11:43 - DPF
12:32 - Coolant loss
==================================
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1st gen 3 0 TDI ALL Issues kzhead.info/sun/kteoZt2gjWeni30/bejne.html N13 Engine ALL Issues (BMW, MINI - N14, N18) kzhead.info/sun/pcdyac-De6qlfq8/bejne.html Range Rover L322 TDV8 Engine Issues kzhead.info/sun/lbyJftWQqmqfpp8/bejne.html 2008 Audi Q7 Detailed Review & Issues after 500 000 km / 310 000 mi - kzhead.info/sun/edubqMODf6iGpqs/bejne.html 2006 VW Touareg - Detailed Review & Issues after 260 000 km / 161 000 mi - kzhead.info/sun/ja6pldyyq2ackp8/bejne.html Buying a used Audi Q7 (4L) - 2005-2015 kzhead.info/sun/Y5ioZtODaHxrmYU/bejne.html Buying a used Volkswagen Touareg II (7P) - 2010-2018 kzhead.info/sun/krqPec1tbaCFkqM/bejne.html Buying a used Audi A4 (B8) - 2008-2015 kzhead.info/sun/nNx9p9qSmYmqioU/bejne.html Buying a used VW Golf MK7 (AU) - 2012-2020 kzhead.info/sun/nbeoZKmAoGt-gJ8/bejne.html VW Golf MK7 ALL Diesel Engine Issues kzhead.info/sun/lslrh7irlqd4oqs/bejne.html VW Golf MK6 ALL Diesel Engine Issues kzhead.info/sun/Z82siq5-o5elbJ8/bejne.html Toyota Land Cruiser Prado (J120) Critical diesel engine Issues kzhead.info/sun/o76Tp5ymoGOQpH0/bejne.html Range Rover L405 - Electronic & Air suspension Issues kzhead.info/sun/g7t7e7V_kZqJqI0/bejne.html
My 2007 A6 3.0 tdi coming up to 300,000 kms. Shes still got it 😅
My 2012 A6 3.0. tdi is at 280 000 km and my neighbours 2013 A6 3.0 tdi sits currently at 360 000 km with a stage 1 tune :D maintain the engine and it will be glorious!
As an Audi Master Technician, I aprove this Video. Another Issue that occours with these engines is the clogging of the Intake-Manifold-Flap (Saugrohrklappe in German) with the Soot of the AGR. Symptons are rough Idle at Cold Starts, lower Power Output and Fault Code that indicates that the Flap does no further operate (passive/sporadic) This Issue can be fixed by thoughrougly cleaning the Flap from all the soot.
what do you use to clean out the soot? oven cleaner? diesel?
@@p__jay we use INDUREI 67 from Amstuzt AG, that works efficently with our manual parts cleaner. As a DIY solution, I suggest a good carburator cleaner ( I recommend KENT One Shot) a detailing pencil or small wheel brush and an abrasive pad (I recommend 3M Scotch-Brite Red). Im sure an Ovencleaner and a Sponge with an abrasive side can work well too, since these are easy and cheap to get :)
If I block the EGR pipe which goes into the intake, will it make any problem of clogged EGR cooler ? (+software delete ofc)
Any recommendation from your side if a proactive cleaning is necessary after how many km? Im asking because my next inspection is the big one (60k km) and thinking to also let the saugrohrklappe clean.
For those who are wondering, deleting the EGR solves this issue. OP is correct tho 👍🏼
Thank you for all the great content on your channel! Please also consider making videos for the 3rd gen 3.0 TDI as well (particularly the 286 HP version) and the 2.0 TDI (190-200 HP versions).
incredible video man. absolutely nailed these engines key issues
Your videos are amazing . Thanks so much brother
I really appreciate your videos! Great Job. Can you do a video like that for A8 D4 4.2TDI ?
I wish I would have seen this video two months ago before I bought a 2015 Q7 TDI. I'm at 118k miles and it's been in the shop over and over again for coolant leaks. Luckily under warranty but I think you may have just convinced me to try and sell it as soon as I can. My question is, if I have already had all of the plastic parts in the cylinder valley replaced, other than the oil and EGR coolers, is it good for another 50-80k miles? Or will these keep failing at higher frequencies?
Hilarious video, great content, thanks a lot for sharing!!! 👍👍👍
Brilliant knowledge and honesty need more folks like this 😊
350.000 km in a 3.0 TDI A6 C7G4 here. Make sure you're doing 15.000 km oil service changes. Makes a world of a difference to the engine.
205000 km A6 C7 BiTDI 230kw. I change my oil every 10-12K km with Longlife III 5W-30 Liqui-Moly.
Change oil with Audi original 0w30
310 000 km Cayenne with 3.0tdi CRCA. I change my oil every 8k km 😉.
188,000 mile Touareg. Oil change 5,000 mile intervals. Mobile 1 0W-30 European per VW.
I have had an 06 A6 3l TDI no problems, a 2011 Touareg 3l TDI, small coolant leak. No problem not bothered to fix 1l per year usage. Now have A6 Biturbo 3l TDI no problems, fantastic car and engine.
what year A6?
2015
I've just acquired the 64 plate one. Hoping it's okay. Expensive to fix if it goes tits. Full service history 120k miles
Change oil at 10k km for safe
I have seen injectors fail at 100.000km. The injectors in these engines suck and often atleast one will fail before 200k km. The oil coolers are horrible, also fail usually at 150k km onward. This video is extremely accurate, I've rectified all of these issues in my touareg and it sucks. 10/10 video, thankyou from Australia. IMPORTANT EDIT - that gasket behind the front cover is steel on previous v6 tdi and a rubber gasket on 2nd gen.
best, most informative review on youtube. Here I found more information in 13 minutes than on the whole year searching in google
Really great vidéo ! Thanks!
nice,thanks for this !
great review dude, funny also!
Really good investigation
My favourite EU brand car review channel! keep it up 💪
Very nicely done i enjoyed it very much And now I'm happy owning my crappy chevy
I work on Tregs and Q7/Q5s. I can confirm most of tgese points are correct.
Great video. Funny and interesting. Won't argue with it but a video of many other engines / car makers could be made like this one. And as the miles get up there every will have parts that just wear out and will break over time. Some better than others but some engines are so badly engineered or built that it would make the TDI 3.0 look great. I've owned many used cars over the years. The two best ones I had are a Toyota 4Runer (only starter motor needed 200k miles) and Porsche Cayenne diesel -which I still have (nothing needed--yet). Incidentally, one of the cars I own is a Toyota (FJ Cruiser) and it has needed almost $7,000 for repairs over the past 5 years. $7,000 more than my Porsche Cayenne for repairs. I agree with this video, though. Plastic parts in critical areas?? In the dumpster! Very funny.
very helpfull video . first time i see such review . Please do it for 1.8 tdci
very interesting video thanks .
Very depressing - thanks 🤣 What generation would I have in my MY22 Q7 TDI 45? One problem with the mild hybrid system seems to be premature failure of the BAS (Belt Alternator Starter) motor.
I HAVE A AUDI A4 B7 DONE 173,000 MILES STILL GOING STRONG 💪 I SERVICE IT ALWAYS ON TIME
Thank You. This video is NOT GARBAGE.
Im looking at a 2008 A4 3.0 TDI with 109k on the clock. Any advice?
Very good info for my 2013 CNRB 3.0 I am already ready with new seals, coolant flange and thermostat housing for when mine starts to leak eventually but so far nothing yet at 160,000km. Knock on wood but it has been a very reliable engine so far. My question is: what fuel additive do you recommend to prolong the life of the injection system??? I would really appreciate the answer with the exact brands. I do use additives already almost every second tank but want to know the best stuff available.
I use Bardahl BDC on other diesel engine and also on Cayenne with CRCA since 3 years on every tank. Great additive which you need to check out.
I have the 2.0 tdi from audi would love to see a video like this on it
I sold my 2015 A8 4.2 TDI last year with 297K kms.. I’ve loved every bit about it! The only issue I had are the injector washers which I replaced all 8 of them for about 150€! It is a much better engine Than the 3.0L tdi! More , effortless power and sounds nice! If you buy one with low kms you cant go wrong in my opinion!
4.2 TDI is based on 3.0 TDI.
Scary video. Anything not garbage???any positive points
Like any V8 diesel from any manufacturer. Destroys transmission due to high torque. Mercedes OM628 and OM629 are well known for this as well
From 2010 and up audi makes the best cars...don't know what this guy is talking about
@@ccharraf its a very good engine, just at 200k you will need to start updating some of the oiling components and paying attention to the timing chain. Maybe new injectors as well. But the engine is very smooth torque and efficientz you will enjoy it a lot. Most modern cars wont reach 100k.
I have another one of these coming in tomorrow that I apparently own.. My business partner bought it.. Engine issues aside - those are the usual - the suspension system is absolute toast.,. we can overcome... we always overcome... we will overcome... or break it for parts.. one or the other.. Toe-rag Life...
You said it all in the first couple of sentences, unfortunately people buy these cars and cannot afford or are too stupid to keep up the maintenance, the best oil is Shell Helix AVL, do not use cheap or non long life oil.
can u do for AUDI A7 Sportback (4GA, 4GF) 3.0 TDI quattro 326hp
I love this video
Please make a video for the 3rd gen 3.0 TDI!
Hi very interesting video and very professional I have audi A6 2015 it's coming up with adblue system fault code p20e800 and it's coming up 650miles no start and the adblue tank is full can you please kindly help me on this issue please waiting for your reply Thankyou 🙏
i have A5 3.0tdi 2010 a bit modifited downpipe and stage 1 remap i have issue is cutting off on acceleration very hard like for 1 sec you feel like someone hit you from back and then goes again and happening randomly not always not any fault codes comes 0 while cutting off there is not any lights on dash comes is like engine lost power for a sec and come back any one had simillar issue helop so many things chenge still same and about change HPFP
Hi, very nice and funny video - great job! did anyone get in touch with an issue related to a oil/coolant mix filled intercooler on the passenger side? and I am talking about a really big amount of fluid or mass.
Could you please do a similar video for 3rd gen of 3.0TDI?
Not much mention about fumes except for injector washers. My 11/2006 Allroad with over 300K kilometers on it, I have had it for 12 years, occasionally fumes come into the cabin when coming to a slow stop. My wife who has an A4 quattro cabriolet with the same 3.0 tdi engine has similar issues. I have changed the injectors and washers on mine, plus turbo and inlet manifolds, cannot see where the fumes are coming from, pivot on EGR valve has been suggested, but nothing obvious. No coolant leaks and not much in the way of oil leaks.
more or less cracked exhaust flexible pipe can be one of the reasons
Same issue here gad ticking noise, new injector washers fixed that. Still fumes coming in occasionally. Maybe exhaust manifold leak. 2007 A6 allroad 3.0 TDI v6.
Driving the 3.0 326hp engine in an Audi sq5. Would recommend to change oil once a year (or after 5k km) plus only tank premium diesel (e.g. Aral ultimate). Never had an issue.
I do the oilchanges every 10k
That dual turbo SQ5 diesel is a friggin timebomb
Had any problems so far? Thinking about buying one
No issues so far. 60k km so far. Yesterday German Tüv approved with only 4500 diesel particles where the max is 250.00 particles . 100% buy when maintenance history is given.
I am surprised the author has not mentioned the leak from the oil pan's middle section - this is an engine out job!
Impossible to cover all the faults from poor engineering that these have in a presentation this short. All you need to know is that these are trouble and when purchasing factor that into the purchase price otherwise steer a wide berth unless you like throwing your money away !!!
I need help, I have the first gen and I cant find the maintenance manual for this engine, I wanna replace the piston rings and I dont know the torque specs nor where to get the bolts. Any help?
@ 1:03 what is the ticking noise
Hey man. Lovely video. I don't know if I even want to see a diesel anymore. Regardless I own a VR6 3.2 FSI that is the positive of a gsoline consumption economic engine. So would you make a comparison video with one of them 3.0 bitdi. So far I am left with the impression that despite the slower and gasoline hungry engine, it is pointless to buy a second hand diesel since onle one repair will likely demolish the gasoline consumption benefit of the TDI. 10x
It’s a great engine if you look after it, service and don’t trash it. Same for most. Clean egr and DPF regularly 30k intervals. Don’t trash engine, burns copper washers on injectors, you’ll see carbon around exhaust manifold as design has an escape port for carbon, great design. As all diesel fuel has all the lubricants taken out add Lucas oil lubricants to fuel for a smooth running engine especially noticeable in high temperatures.
Amazing video and thank you for the pointers! I'm off out now for another day to try and fix my SQ5 engine which is cranking but not firing. I'm suspecting a failed injector, just need to find out which one now. I hav 380 bar with all 6 injectors blanked off at the rails so think the HP fuel pump is ok. You say the HPFP goes at 200kM. I have 124k miles on my engine. I hope this is not the case for me. Worried about a big job and costs coming! :-/
Even 1 faulty injector can cause cranking but no start - ECU can block all of them in this case. You can try to unplug the electrical connector from each injector, then start the car, so: unplug the connector from 1 injector then start the car-if no start then plug it back and unplug the other injector, try to start the car and so on. If you checked all the injectors this way and the engine is still not starting, then the problem can be somewhere else. A leaky injector can also cause a no start condition, but in this case you would see fuel pressure drop in the rail. By the way a water damaged ECU can also cause the engine to not start, the ECU is located under the windshield, in the scuttle area, so you can check it for traces of water as well.
Would be great to hear your thoughts on the 3rd Gen TDI aswell, whishing to buy a 2016 A6 but hesitating since you recommended to avoid those engines.
currently I'm not planning a vid about the 3rd gen but on my website I briefly mention some issues of this engine in the 2nd gen 3.0 TDI article: differentcarreview.com/2023/04/29/2nd-gen-3-0-tdi-all-issues/
Get audi 80/100 or first gen a6. No problems
Les 4g sont les 3 ou 4 eme generation ?
Ah yes. Mysterious coolant leaks from my V6 Diesel. Had 2: One from Gearbox coolant valve and also the diverter valve mentioned in this vide which is in the middle of the engine V.
Same happened to me, roughly in 180-200k km...
where is the gearbox coolant valve?
@@assyrianmeyou can find it if you follow cable harness from gearbox, has coolant hoses and electric wires. Coolant valve solenoid starts to leak coolant through the connector, it travels throught the wire into gearbox connector and makes some funny things 😂 in mine, it burned off the plus wire so no power for gearbox. It needed new connector, small piece of harness, new solenoid and of course coolant.
Whats about 3rd gen 3.0TDI? Are there issues too?
You did this engine dirty bro. Issues you mention are those of very poorly serviced specimens or abused high mileage crap. Few points I agree on definitely, timing chains 200k and out and coolant flow valve inside of Vee + that flange, that leaks sooner or later regardles of mileage, more like a function of age. Other than that this engine is amazing compared to the older ones and new ones definitely! Little side note, 90% of 3rd gens problems are solved by raising an oil pressure in the ECU. ;)
kurnik šopa až teraz som si všimol tvoj koment :D najväčšia legenda už teraz maximálne zdechnutého bmwklubu ! (už je to tam len samí onanista a nemá tam kto udržovat rovnováhu) Videl som tvoj príbeh na klube ako aj príspevky so špecifickým humorom ktorí ma vždy pobavil. Dodám len tolko, že autá si servisujem sám, no k tebe by som sa nebál zobrat akýkolvek vehikel.
All the sudden I love my BMW E46 🤲🏻🤲🏻🤲🏻
I'd compare the 2.0 TDI PD cars to that E46 instead of this behemoth. Those ones are very reliable but can be costly to fix
I love it when people use these types of vehicles as boats
Thanks
Thank you for the support !
Hi, thank you very much for the help. I blanked off each injector one by one and after blanking off injector #2 the engine started no problem. The bolt was loose. Injector looks like toast. Will replace injector. Exhaust now very smokey. I’m guessing it’s trying to burn any I burnt fuel while cranking. Think best to remove the DPF and give it a good clean out. Probably a good time to replace all injectors but after seeing your video then I’m guessing it’s probably a good mileage point to change the HPFP too? Last thing I would want is the pump to fail and kill all new injectors. Replacing the HPFP however looks like a hard job and very costly. You say that the pump generally fails around 200km or 400km? Is this almost a definite? I’m guessing you mean the first pump fails at 200km and the replacement pump would then fail at 400km? After research it seems to be more of an issue in the states who run with lower sulphur diesel with less lubricating properties. My mileage is 124miles. Should I spend £2K on new injectors and a new pump or not? Thanks in advance for your advice 🙂👍
The failure of the hpfp depends mainly on the fuel quality, so with good quality fuel it can last 400 000 km, but with bad/not proper quality/contaminated fuel(-including yes as you noted fuel with low sulphur) it can fail much earlier. Most of the failures occur usually just after 200 000 km, so the chance of failure is getting bigger after the 200 k km mileage point. But of course noone knows when will it fail exactly. In the 1st gen. 3.0 tdi the pump is easily accessible so it can be fairly easily disassembled and checked for signs of wear. Unfortunately in your 2nd gen TDI engine its NOT accessible easily. The hpfp is located on the back side of the engine, so to replace it you have to remove basically everything on top of the engine. This is time consuming and labor intensive +since everything has to come out there, you should replace all that plastic garbage & seals which are gonna leak sooner or later (if they have not been replaced in the past of course). The only good thing is, that if you would replace the hpfp, all the injectors and all the seals+plastic parts there - then you would eliminate most of the potential failure points of the engine for a long time. Another option would be to replace the bad injectors individually and leave the other stuff as is. This is obviously the cheapest option, but its just a matter of time when the other injectors fail one by one. And if you are unlucky then in the worst case you can end up with a cracked piston-again this is the worst case but it can happen. Of course the chance of the hpfp failure would be still there, but at least it would not destroy all the NEW injectors, and as I said it is possible that the hpfp will be fine even up to 400 000 km. To minimize hpfp failure: use good quality fuel + sometimes good fuel additives, change the fuel filter regularly, and avoid driving with low fuel level. So at the end of the day it really depends on how much you want to spend on the repairs. If you want to keep the car for a long time, if its in good condition and if you really like it = then it can make sense to replace preventively the things. But if you have doubts, if you don't want to do the repair yourself and if you don't know a good mechanic, or if you are planning to get rid of the car then its better to keep the repair costs low.
Thank you very much for spending your time with your explanation! I've just spotted another leaky injector with VCDS, so I've now replaced 3 injectors at my current milage 124k miles. I'll leave the 3 old injectors in and just keep an eye on the 'injector deviation quanties' from time to time with VCDS and replace if they're running rich when neccessary. Based on your information, I'll take your good advice and add cetane booster / injector cleaner which should hopefully add the neccessary extra lubricity to the diesel and prolong the life of the fuel pump. If we still have the car at 180k miles, which I'm planning, then I think I'll preemtively replace the HPFP if it hasnt already failed and then replace all the plastic 'garbage' at that point. Would probably be a good time to take the engine out at the milage and do the chain, chain tensioners, as well as the replacement HPFP at that point. Doing some research you get get a bosch remenufactured service ex HPFP for about £550 which isn't too bad. TPS are charging nearly £2K for a new one! Looks to be about a 2 day job to change it as access to remove turbos is not easy on the SQ5 so taking the engine out looks to be a better alternative 🙂 @@differentcarreview-dcr
Having owning this engine for a few years, and over 230,000 miles, I will confirm a few things that I have replaced. -Oil cooler gaskets leaked, twice -EGR cooler leaked internally -Oil filter housing once -2 injectors -All of the plastic flanges and valve under the intake leaked, twice. -Motor mounts -coolant reservoir -DPF and EGR -front oil pan gasket - every single control arm, twice Things to note that are positive: -Timing chains noisy for 2 seconds on cold startup, but is normal according to Audi. You can change them out, but the chains and guides are fine. -Turbocharger is good -Valve cover gaskets are fine -Front and rear timing cover seals is good, although rear main seal will leak eventually but not for me. -Transmission, axles, differential, transfer case rock solid. No leaks, slips, noises, clunks, nothing. -injectors are about $160-$200 and super easy to change out, can be pulled out by hand but definitely use a slide hammer, they are also vin coded to the car, so you need VCDS. -injector bolts are torque to yield, and the injector line needs a special tool ($40) -intercooler and hoses/elbows is fine -radiator is fine -radiator hoses are fine -front oil pan doesn’t need the crossmember dropped to replace -CP4 HPFP going strong, no issues. I Use additives. -oil changes are super easy… you siphon the oil from the top, and the oil filter is a exposed paper filter for you to be able to inspect for any shaving or debri. You’re done in 15 mins without jacking the car up off the ground, very convenient. The car has excellent fuel economy, 45 MPG on a straight highway and 30mpg combined driving with tons of power, 500ftlbs with a tune. It is a blast to drive and all of the creature comforts. The A8 has a 800+ mile range, and my A6 has 700+ max mile range. My advice, delete the car immediately, they have the EGR cooler delete, EGR blanks, and DPF/Cats delete pipes all at Darkside performance for a reasonable price. Tuning is about $600, well worth it. Everything else, is super easy to fix. There are no catastrophic issues to deal with; like rod bearings in a m3, or killer dowel pin in a 12v cummins, or catastrophic lifter failure in a 5.7 heme.. it’s just coolant or oil leaks, that’s really it. Annoying? Yes, but relatively speaking they’re not expensive to fix if you’re doing the work yourself. It looks intimidating pulling off the intake; but in all reality it’s about a 3-5 hour job start to finish with common hand tools. The hardest job would be the timing chains (which there are virtually 0 catastrophic failures on the chains; noisy? Yes but they’re good) or the plastic piece behind the front timing cover (also rare failure, but it does happen) or the HPFP.. you need a special tool to hold the timing chains, and pray you don’t need injectors.. but this is no different than any other HPFP swap in the diesel trucks. If you are just going to take this to a shop for every little thing, it’s going to kill you with labor. Just like any other car, but if you’re willing to get your hands dirty and fix shit yourself, it’s a very pleasant engine choice for what it offers. Like this engine is a blast to drive, and the fuel economy is next level. Also last thing, if you have this car used from 25,000-100,000 miles, you’re not going to have any if at all, any problems from this engine. All of the issues are after the 100,000 mile mark.
I would mention the PCV valve failure in the right cylinder head cover. If the oil starts to build up at the bottom of the intercooler than the PCV system is leaking oil (or the turbo or both). The PCV valve is not supposed to be replaceable, the cover should be replaced. Alternate solution is a china made membrane and spring.
What were the symptoms which lead to the engine mount replacement? I am experiencing a vibration at idle but the rpm seems to be stable. In reverse mode the vibration is stronger than in drive mode. I changed the transmission bushing but the situation is the same. I am suspecting the engine mounts for this vibration issue. Is there a way to diagnose the health of the mounts? It is a pita to extract these, especially the driver side mount from the Cayenne 92A.
One more issue I had: the leaking transmission cooler regulator valve. The valve is cheap but the transmission should be removed in order to replace it. Unfortunately it can not be accessed from the engine bay.
Right on. Thanks for extensive explanations. Mine has been very good and I absolutely in love with that clatter when you get on the gas with this TDI. What additives do you recommend specifically?
You can visually inspect the motor mounts from underneath for leaks, but the car shakes very bad. No CEL, but when you go into drive, and reverse, and back into drive, the vibration changes. That’s the obvious symptom. If you go the Audi oem route, they’re $600-$650 per side. And you need to buy the bolts, as they’re torque to yield. You can get the part numbers from Audi direct. The only other option is Meyle, they’re $250 for the set. Obviously that’s the route I went, the brand superior over oem in my experience. And that’s the route I would personally recommend, i have about 30,000+ miles on them now, and no issues.
were can i find 3rd gen info i was going to buy a car with this engine i need info asap thanks
Man I just came across your review as I wanted to buy an A4 Allroad quattro with a 3.0tdi engine. After watching your video I will stay well away from the 3.0 tdi engines. God bless
if our 3.0 2nd gen Q5 TDI's last 200K miles (2014 = 112k, 2015 =65K, no issues so far 🤞) all good. Great for HWY use, 40 mpg. Change Oil, Urea, Good diesel. Do not use stop go start - I think it ruins the fuel pump.
I had a Touareg with the 3.0 V6. VW bought it back in the diesel debacle. So glad I didn't experience major issues. The HPFP failed after a filter change and the dealer didn't prime the pump. It was replaced under warranty.
i like this video. The guy is interesting and continues to entertain me. i dont mind the accent at all
Very funny video. Good effort.
Does anyone have the part codes?
Does this refer to the 2011 Touareg CASA/CATA engine. This seems to be the newer 2012/13 engine
no, that is a 1st gen 3.0 TDI, video about that engine here: kzhead.info/sun/kteoZt2gjWeni30/bejne.html
2 gen CCWA 2011r 300Km700Nm przebieg 300000km+ wszystko 100% sprawne , wtryski , turbo,stronic polecam
Scary video. Anything not garbage???any positive points
Already did this on the same engine(fixing leaks and replacing timing chain). Want some advice? Buy a Lexus and forget about problems!
Yeah, but Lexus doesn't depreciate like these do lol.
At this point I don't care about depreciation, I care that it works and doesn't leave me stranded. Also, in Bulgaria, a used Lexus holds much higher value than the same class and year Audi.
@@kalobesh I'm trying to say since Lexus doesn't depreciate so much, that not everyone can afford that sort of luxury
Is the third generation any better ? Or the i6 from bmw ? Thanks for the video 😊
BMW M57 better
VeRy infoRmativ plus extRa points for memes!
What about the 2.7 TDI CANC Version, does it have the same issues?
no, that engine is technically the same as the 1st gen 3.0 TDI video about the 1st gen 3.0 TDI here: kzhead.info/sun/kteoZt2gjWeni30/bejne.html
Im looking to buy a 2014 A7 with the 3.0 TDI. It has 33000 Miles on it. would it be a good reliable car for at least a while as it has such low miles?
I'm not a fan of cars that barely get driven to be honest. Not driving a car is probably worse for seals etc than driving it a lot.
Are all those plastic garbage parts replaceable with metal?
👍👍
I’m about to receive my Audi A6 Avant 3.0 TDI BiTurbo next Wednesday is this a 2nd gen engine or a 1st gen? CGQ motorcode. 2013 model
2nd gen
do you have to get out the engine to replace the hpfp?
no, but its absolutely not easy to replace it anyway, since you have to remove everything on top of the engine including the turbo and you have to lock the upper sprocket on the chain mechanism and just then remove the pump
Can you please talk abt the 3rd gen v6 tdu
currently I'm not planning a vid about the 3rd gen but on my website I briefly mention some issues of this engine in the 2nd gen 3.0 TDI article: differentcarreview.com/2023/04/29/2nd-gen-3-0-tdi-all-issues/
@@differentcarreview-dcr Is it the engine used in 2020 S4?
Very good info. Don’t forget - Do not be tempted to replace ANY genuine parts with cheaper Chinese copies. They are poor quality rubbish that will fail MUCH sooner than you think costing you more money.
lol the oem stuff is cheap plastic garbage too, so putting in either is a lose lose
@@toddp9286 Not TRUE ! Spending money on a local auto dismantler prevents your money going to the CCP. BIG DIFFERENCE.
Man.. It would've been so much easier to make a list of what's good on this engine ahaha and after everything i guess air filter is the only thing that doesn't break. I mean i love VW/Audi don't get me wrong and i know this isn't some sort of general rule and doesn't mean it will happen on every such engine out there but when you sum it all up, unless you're getting this new or used where someone religiously cared for it, it's best to avoid it.
How can I contact you? I‘m an engine supplier from China.
2gen 3.0tdi from 2011?
Great video, i have cayenne 370k KM
Is the audi a3 8v 2.0 tdi engine more reliable than the older 2011 2.0tdi?
no, because the older 2011 2.0 TDI is simpler and if in good condition then even more reliable
also keep in mind that these older 2.0 TDIs can have the dieselgate software update which can cause various issues in this case I would recommend to reflash the software to the older pre-dieselgate version
@@differentcarreview-dcr what issues could they cause? I have the 2009 model 140bhp cbab engine code
check out the article about the Golf MK6 I did, where I mention the issues of this engine: differentcarreview.com/2020/10/16/golf-mk6/
Need part number for the oil thermostat o ring, I can't find it.
its not sold separately, the o-ring is available only together with the cover - part number: 059115185C
from your review the whole engine is grap.?
its still not that bad, there are much worse engines than this
Maybe too many problems with the VW/Audi engines and gear boxes? 🚙 I have driven almost 10 years in 2 different BMW six cylinder 330ds (several 100 thousand kilometers, many years 60.000km a year) without a single problem.
This basically lowers the value of every 2nd gen and onwards 3.0 tdi from this group by around 5-6k. You have to factor in a massive engine out bill with timing chains and a zillion gaskets. I've given up on German cars second hand. They really are only for lease nowadays.
Watching this after bought a4 b8 2008 3.0 tdi 😂😢
But to delete dpf and cat. 181k, running fine.
something happened very bad with German engineering after GDR and BR reunification
My favorite line is "Because it's a garbage!"
Driving a 3 tdi a5 it's far more refined than merc or bmw
every single thing he said in my case cdta 2 gen had to be replaced every single plastic coolant peace front engine cover timing chain oil filter housing regulator for coolant rear main seal secend oil sump oil leak injector washers and so on invested 10.000+ euro in repairs and it had only 210.000km engine it self is good and fun to drive but ot is expencive to repair at least with om parts from audi
Sooo, basically I will need to rebuild our engine soon. Got it.
What do you think about the 1st generation? Less plastic?
yes
All plastic parts are garbage 😂
useful information dellivered in an abhorent English. Could'nt keep watching it!
3rd gen when? Got an allroad with it
If it's 218/272 ps (engine code: CRT) sell it asap.
@@user-mj1pl8dz1g its the 190 hp one CZVF i think
please give me that car selling website you put on this video
mobile.de
Best v6 modern diesel
Nope... OM 642 is far better, sounds better, and a lot easier to work on....
@@janfswedane maybe I can not confirm or denie. I know they the bluetec versions allegedy have more issues then the cdi branded models. But I would say here in canada there are a shit ton and I would say there are more diesel than gas 2010-2019 ml,gl,e class ,glk models on the road.
@ My Home Garage: The BlueTec (DEF) systems are a challenge on all makes, especially in Arctic environment. My point is that the MB 642 is a lot easier to maintain due to the of a gazillion hoses and gadgets VAG need in order to get their diesels within pollution specs
@@janfswedane Agreed, used to own a 2007 E320 CDI with the OM642 and I loved that engine very much! 307k KM without any major problems, except for the alternator belt and the pulleys having to be replaced, which was an around 300EUR job at a good indie mechanic and will last for at least a hundred thousand kilometres. Another small problem was a little bit of oil condensation from the turbo's gaskets, but it was also fixed for around 90EUR (labour included), which is dirt cheap to be fair. The power and torque of the engine was lovely and I'm not even talking about how fuel efficient it was, full tank of diesel lasted me around 1000KM. The only problems I had with the engine was a little bit of black soot coming out when I floored it, but it was probably due to the engine having an ECU tune for more power, heh. On other side, the W211 had a lot of problems with the suspension, especially the front suspension, it was a pain in the ass to constantly replace all sorts of bushings, rods and control arms, but the prices for the parts (either OEM or OEM equivalent) were very rational and cheap, considering it's a Benz, not some Toyota, Opel or VW.
@@theriverthatflows98 Cocur.. I did 700tkm in a Euro Chrysler 300C Touring also equipped with the OM642.. I did the generator too and the turbo.. Apart from that I changed the engineoil for every 12tkm as recommended in the user manual..