STOP struggling to get level cabinets
This video will show you how to make a toe kick, level the toe kick, and install the cabinets on top of it. Follow these steps and you too can get perfect results every time.
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These videos are for entertainment purposes only. Bent's Woodworking is not responsible for any viewer trying to recreate something demonstrated in this video. Attempting any of the techniques shown are at the viewers own risk.
I'm familiar with this method. When I worked for my brothers-in-law in construction many years ago, we did several jobs installing cabinets commercially. They were all built this way. We simply leveled the bases, then set the cabinets on top. Easy peasy!
a 10 minute video and literally every second is good info... nice
My former neighbor, calls himself a handyman, but has extensive experience building and remodeling homes. He was building new cabinets in his garage for his new home. He taught me the same method. He said build you toe kick frame, then spend the time to level it. Once that’s done, attach your cabinets on top. Then your not fighting each cabinet to be level and matching the other ones.
I attach a level ledger board across the wall. Place boxes on top and use the plastic adjustable legs for the front. So simple and always perfectly level.
Yes that's basic carpentry.
Yeah I do that too. It's basically the system used by IKEA kitchen cabinets. I don't get why he spent so much time and materials building a level base when you can just level the top.
@@vincentzhang2160 Because he's the most anal woodworker on KZhead.
@@vincentzhang2160 Thats exactly why Ikea installers (and products) have an extremely poor reputation by real professionals in the kitchen industry. Plastic feet don't support the weight of cabinetry, Particularly with stone type benchtops causing the tops to fail and crack due to Plastic feet unable to support the weight. Poor insulation provides poor results. Even this KZheadr understands cabinetry better than you do! Shame on you - Cowboy
@sethguenuberg Thats exactly why installers like yourself have an extremely poor reputation by real professionals in the kitchen industry. Plastic feet don't support the weight of cabinetry, Particularly with stone type benchtops causing the tops to fail and crack due to plastic feet being unable to support the weight of cabinetry (even with standard benchtops). Poor insulation provides poor results. Even this KZheadr understands cabinetry better than you do! Shame on you - ya Cowboy. Think you should seriously consider a better suited job that requires zero skills more suited to your skill level (or lack of). Customers pay good money for kitchens So Leave these jobs to the real people who know what their doing.
After watching the video advert i was still skeptical. But when i finally downloaded the plans kzhead.infoUgkxZF0EMnrujZvqHhGkxiz559uIABJWR9TG i was very impressed. The whole plan was just as you said in the video. Thank you very much. I now have a large and valuable collection for my woodworks. This is great!
This is Old School Carpentry, if the base is solid and level the rest falls in place . . .glad to see someone put the time in to show others Old School techniques +++ points for that
True, I've been doing this since the early 90's.
@dannyoktim9628 Couldn't agree more. Please to hear your another professional in this industry intentionally choosing to do things correctly Unfortunately this type of knowledge and skills are lacking and hard to find these days.
@@PennsPens In my 20 years I've only seen plastic leveling legs/feet a handful of times. It's almost always plywood or pressure treated lumber toe kicks.
Professional Finish Carpenter/Cabinet guy here; First off, separate toe-kicks for the win! By far the best way to do it. Unfortunately, in my area, so few cabinet shops do them separately :/ I did have one question: What's with the torpedo level? You're already using a laser. If the laser is touching the front of the kick and you can still see it above the back side of the kick, then your kick is sitting perfectly in the middle of the laser, therefore level. You're 12" torpedo isn't telling you anything that the laser isn't already.
For kitchen cabinets, I install drawer slides and drawers in the toe kicks. They are great for the rarely used roasting pans and cookie sheets.
do you just make a U shaped box? with the L's and T's as he does here?
Seems like efficient use of space in a small kitchen. Any downsides to consider?
@@esteban62 if you have un-level floors the bottom of the drawers can bind
@@schteve8476 Yes, the drawer faces could be scribed perfectly to the floor while in the closed postition then bind when opened, there goes your perfect scribe. Or to have an even gap when close it needs to be 1/2". On the other hand, the floor could be decent and a uniform eighth inch gap can work. Personally, for cleanliness, I prefer to have the kicks, carcasses and counter tops of kitchen cabinets caulked/hermetically sealed. Having those gaps means crumbs are an open invitation to bugs. How often does one pull the drawers and clean underneath them?
Isn't that for the mice to run loose? Lol
Loved seeing you out of the workshop putting some stuff together and you made that look easy im going to start doing this! another fantastic video
Regarding the laser, I find it's best to set the laser line 2 or 3 inches above the toe kick. Find the high spot then set a block of wood on the high spot on the toe kick, mark the laser on the block then shim up each section until the block shows level to the laser. Setting up the laser above the toe kick, offset, allows you to accurately level the front and the back of the toe kick using the laser. No spirit level is needed.
This is fundamental and I'm really surprised to see someone making a "how to level" video introducing another error factor and defeating the purpose of having a self-leveling laser line as a reference. SMH
@@DiffEQ When I was an apprentice I found out the hard way that laser levels can go kerflooey. Since then I check them regularly.
Setting the laser a hair above the highest spot works too, so it barely grazes over the toe kick in the front and back.
@@PlatypusxOuroboros 2 to 3 inches above is better, then use a small block with a pencil mark.
@@thekinarbo ...mmm and you are 100% CORRECT ! during my 30 plus year on construction sites - I saw many construction workers relying on their laser to be perfect all of he time and they never ever checked them ! My boss bought a brand new self leveling laser and I checked it and it was only off 1/4 inch in 10 feet ! He was SHOCKED and returned it and made sure the new one read perfect before he left the store !
Some very good tips and demo, Bent. So much easier to level than built-in toe kicks.
That was absolutely brilliant! I will be following your method from here on. Thanks for taking the time to compile and post.
Simple, informative, relaxing and awesome.
Thank You and I am glad I found your Channel. Keep Up The Good Work
ladder box toe kicks have been SOP for us since the early 80's. solid and speeds up install. thumbs up
As a qualified Kitchen designer, Manufacturer and installer here in NZ. I got slammed for years for building my cabinet bases like yourself. My competitors told clients I was charging for unnecessary materials and labour's instead of using cheaper plastic adjustable feet (even though it made installation faster)... Until, jobs I lost of my competitors suffered from major cracking issues in their stone/marble benchtops, due to poorly unsupported cabinets. My reputation grew extremely quickly after that while others suffered from cutting corners. I have never seen or heard of people (besides myself) take the extra time to manufacturer bases like you've shown here. I applaud you for making the effort towards doing things correctly. After our increasing market share we changed our slogan to "If things are worth doing, Their worth doing right" seem cheesy but it worked. Great sharing of you knowledge Sir. Wish more people on the industry thought like this.
I don't know where Bent is but I'm a finish carpenter in California. I've done both commercial and residential. 99% of the cabinets I've installed use toe kicked like what you see in this video. Although most use smaller/shorter sleepers that don't go all the way to the floor. There are situations where a toe kick needs to be scribed to the floor, in that case it's difficult to cut and sand those interior supports/sleepers.
Thorough explanation with great demonstration. Thank you!!
Crystal clear and professional. Great video
There are a ton of great woodworkers on KZhead but I will say I always learn a ton from you. I have watched all your cabinet making videos going back several years. I had never made a cabinet when I watched your first one. Since then I have made many including a kitchen remodel. Thanks and keep them coming.
That was a brilliant explanation, your a gifted teacher!
Your videos are extremely well done. The angles, lighting and the way that you describe the process makes it all a very nice package. Thank you!
Wow! So many super valuable tips right here. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you for those tips, definitely using them.
You have what it takes to be a great teacher, precise without BS.
Thanks for posting this. I've been wanting to use this method but hadn't see it addressed anywhere.
What a great plan. This will save me so much time building out my shop cabinets.
Really enjoying these videos. I'd love to see you keep it going with scribing the filler strips and the top to the walls, and scribing the toe kick.
I started doing this about 35 yrs ago and was told, "you can't do it like that, you don't know what your doing!". Lol, I guess I don't know what I'm doing but it sure works good!
Great video. All the information needed without a bunch of extra talking. Informational AND interesting. I learned a lot in a few minutes. Thank you!!
I've been doing this for the last 40 years, its absolutely the best way to install cabinets. Old home remodels where you have a 3" difference in floor from 1 side to the other. Glad to see someone else doing it this way. Have had quite a few contractors just look at me and shake their heads like I;m crazy!! Great video as always!!
' 3" difference in the floor ' Really?!? I would be concerned about some underlying structural issues before a kitchen remodel, unless their new Kitch Cabs are on a 3/12 roof 🤷🏾 whatever you say Boss!
Agreed on the method. Really dont like individually leveling. Never had anything 3" out but got close. Built a kitchen once that had around 2-1/2" of slope across 16' or so of cabinets. House was framed that way if you can believe that. In a luxury neighborhood too. I thought for sure something was going on with the foundation, maybe termites in the structure but nope.
Thanks, I was one of the fellows who asked you about toe kicks. Good method, makes sense.
Great demonstration. Thanks
Nice work. This method is a keeper for all who do cabinets on a semi-routine basis. thanks.
Omg! Lovin that office glass door.
Great method and explanations. Instead connecting cabinet boxes with screws, which can dislodge over time and aren't so good with MDF and melamine, I recommend connecting bolts and nuts (Everbilt) to ensure the boxes never shift. Using the bolts and nuts takes me, an amateur, about two minutes more per box than screws, which is why pros simply use screws. But if the cabinets are for your own home, the few extra minutes are worth it.
Really nice explanation of the toe kick base. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video and explanation. Thanks!
Best cabinet installation video I have seen. Thank you for sharing!
Glad you enjoyed it
No nonsense approach - gets the job done efficiently. I like it.
Great.....I’ve done units similar and having a plinth base, levelled through is a good way to go. Well done!
Awesome information, thanks for sharing this video!!
Great video, Jason~! I really like the design of using a separate toe-kick. I'm in the process of building my miter saw station and this is the way I'll be mounting those cabinets. It just seems like an easier way to get them level, especially with the imperfect cement floor in my shop. Your build technique makes it look even easier than what I've already seen. Thanks for sharing this~!
I used this method on a recent project. It made the installation go much smoother and faster. Great results. Thanks
great video. Thank you for the amazing tips and tricks to make life easier.
Great job. Thanks for sharing!
Exactly what I’ve been looking for. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Loved this, super informative
Excellent tutorial.
this is a great help, and so well explained thankyou! Will help me heaps as I am about to embark on a fitted 'robe project!
This is the best advice I have ever seen regarding cabinetry. Thank you so much for making this excellent video!👍
Glad it was helpful!
As a flooring installer that occasionally needs to pry off the toe kick to get my flooring together, I appreciate the the way your cabinets are constructed. Well done!
Beautiful work!
Never saw it done this way. Thank you much 😊
Thanks for this pair of videos. I'm putting cabinets in my new shop in the next few months and was planning on something pretty much like this. Good to see your process and get a refresher. Nicely done.
Glad you found it helpful!
Amazing tutorial - something I often come across and this video has helped a lot in my initial start of any project.
Glad you found it helpful
Wow, amazing work 👏 . Thanks for the informative video
Never done cabinet installation, but learned a lot from this simple but well put video.
I appreciate you making this video. It was super timely and helpful as I'm tackling my first built-in's redoing our laundry room. Used this method to get a solid and level base for the cabinets. Great info!
Glad you found it helpful
outstanding video very informative. thank you
Going to be building cabinets for the first and have really gotten a lot of good information . Feel much better about the upcoming project. Thank you for your time
You’re welcome!
Really good method and makes the cabinet carcasses a little easier to construct
Very nice tutorial. Thanks
This is the way. The cabinets i put in 20 yrs ago are still in perfect condition. Refinish on doors and face veneer is all we have done .
Awesome content! I really appreciate how thorough and detailed you are with every step. Eliminates all possible headaches once placing the cabinets, spot on sir!
Glad it was helpful!
This is genius, man I'm glad you made this video, thanks!
Thank you. Very helpful.
You’re welcome
Thank You for posting I was taught a very similar method many years ago by a German cabinet maker.
Such a helpful video , thank you !!
Very nice installation
Just instead of using a little spirit level, I raise the level line 2 to 3 centimetres above the kicker. Them I find the highest pois on my kicker. Thank I use a little block to draw a line where the highest part is. Then I use this block all the way over the kicker and packing up where it is necessary.
Great tutorial. Thanks! 🙂👍🏼
It’s a lot easier to put your drawer slides in when it’s on your workstation versus When it’s installed. And you’re right about building toe kick in cabinet separate because you get six Sides out of a piece of plywood versus four if you build them with the toe kick attached
Great presentation! I appreciate ya!
Glad it was helpful!
You can set the laser higher than the base and mark a line or dot on a little block and use that too shim the back !!
Great video! Thanks for the tips
You’re welcome
Thanks, I learned something.
Great instructions. The best that I have seen. Thanks for sharing. 👍👍
You’re welcome
I’ve been building my cabinets this way for decades!
Great informative video !
one of the best videos ive seen and being a floorguy i appreciate the fact you cut the laminate floor back as it should be. the base construction takes all the work outta cabinet installation, plus when backed up with a laser and comp shims quality is sky high. you got a new subscriber! 👍
Looks as if the floor is up tight against the base. Should there not be a 3/8 expansion space, covered with some base shoe?
Best method for cabinet installing.
Great job
Nice! Found this channel by mistake and it's perfect for some books shelves I am about to set up.
Welcome aboard!
I used your L and T method for the toe kick. I really like this method!
Great to hear!
Good stuff Brother. Thank you!
Beautiful, true work. 👌
Brilliant!
Fantastic watch Thank you …
You’re welcome
LOL this is how it was always done before KZheadrs! The first time I saw someone cut the sides of the cabinet to make the toe kick area, I thought how stupid… then I saw everyone doing it????? Now your teaching this like its a new way to build cabinets! LOL. Always a good video.
Great video as always. As somebody who has never built a toe kick before, nor a cabinet for that matter, I have a couple of suggestions that came to mind. Firstly when measuring the cabinets for the support positions you could instead just place either the front or back across the cabinets and mark them directly. Secondly as you have a nice flat and level work surface to build on, I'd suggest building the toe kick upside down. This ensures that the top surface will be flat and level for the cabinets as the bottom surface of the toe kick doesn't matter - It will be shimmed anyway.
Both great points. 👍
I stumbled across your video when I was at my lowest, not having a good time. kinda not sure what direction I'm going in with my life and your video made me feel the passion I used to feel a few years ago, seeing you do jobs properly and the awesome tools you have gives me some hope to keep going. Thank you.
You got this!
I do the same... build separate toe kicks for my cabinet installs. One benefit you can add to making them separately... building them out of pressure teated lumber (plywood or 2x4 stock like I did). It is advantageous in situations like garages and basements, where the cabinets may be sitting directly on concrete floors.
Im so using this on my new RV build
fantastic video ...well done.
I would use EZ level devises on the toe kick assembly for a solid and easy leveling process. Also, i would cut the flooring back an additional 1/4" for its expansion. I do enjoy the no no-nonsense feel of your videos .
I agree. Need that space for floating floor expansion. I need to do that for my installation. Any advice for expansion joint caulking so the 1/4 space does not fill with dirt or spills?
I work for a custom cabinet shop. We build and use floating toe kicks just like this. Rudimentary? Sure. But it’s the most efficient want to achieve consistent results
You are a genius! Thanks!
Great video!! DD
I do the same method, except I use unfinished plywood, I glue and nail the toe kick together
great work a real art