Cabinetry Basics Part 1 [video 435]
I get a lot of questions about cabinet and carcass construction and in this series I aim to answer them all, starting here with the most asked question of all; on a wall-hung cabinet, should the top and base sit within or above, the sides?
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Mentioned in this video:-
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Very helpful and informative. I am a retired accountant and into DIY cabinetry/bookshelves/etc just as a new hobby.
Current accountant here, been wanting to pick up woodworking for a long time
I clicked on the video for information, now I’m falling asleep because his voice is ASMR gold. 😴
Thought this would be one of those “oh it’s obviously x” videos, but actually learned a lot as to why I was wrong! Great information on the rationale!
Thanks! 👍
Same here! I figured "well obviously the top should sit on the sides, because if the top has stuff on it then it'll be heavy and the sides will provide extra support". I'm very glad I watched this before I actually started making anything.
Wall hung use different method to floor standing
And if you want to use it as a table (upper side to support things), is it better to put that piece of wood over the wood side, isn't it? One question more (thanks in advance), if you want to link 2 pieces of wood (i.e. 2 cm wide each one) like in the video, what must the screw length be to ensure that they will have a perfect and resistant union? Is there any rule about it? Thanks a lot!
Yea i was wrong too but then i didnt realise it should be a wall cabinet carcass lol
Leaving the cut of the bench moving and the track clattering you on the head was a great little touch.
Something tells me that I need to watch a lot more of your videos before I go and start my first project
I haven’t watched a lot of cabinet making videos. I loved how straight forward, concise, reasonable this video is. You earned a new subscriber!
You are so good in playing a teacher anyways i appreaciated i got to say im reliieved
Showing how hard it was to pull the wall off made it crystal clear. Thanks a lot
This is one of the best “how to” videos I’ve come across. Thank you for making it so clear and easy. 👍🏼 This is exactly what I’m looking for.
Awesome, thank you! 👍
I can say, that was the best 9 minutes i've spent this week learning something.
🙌👍👍
i guess Im randomly asking but does any of you know a trick to log back into an Instagram account? I stupidly lost the login password. I would love any tips you can offer me
@Watson Zaire Instablaster :)
@Fabian Ryland Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site thru google and im trying it out now. Seems to take quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
@Fabian Ryland It worked and I now got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D Thanks so much you saved my ass !
You fit a lot of information in a straight forward and efficient video. Love it!
This was so easy to follow and made so much sense along the way. Great explanation for a simple concept that I hadn't thought about but hope to build a vanity this year.
I like your succinct style, getting straight to the point with no waffle. Thanks a lot 👍
watched for the info, subscribed because you kept the part where that track fell on your head, multiple times from multiple angles, so very relatable I love it. This makes so much sense and answered this question I often wondered about why things were the way they were. Also, that fact that wen you have shelves having them the same length as the top and bottom just has a better look about it as well. So it makes the sides look better and even the symmetry of the front looks better as well.
Helping the algorithm. The series could become a well-deserved hit.
Thanks! Fingers crossed! 👍
Funny you should mention the algorithm... I haven't had any videos suggested for months, then this one shows up without me having to go looking. I wonder if it's because of the mention on sponsorship? 🤔
@@10MinuteWorkshop If you didn't keep your fingers crossed. you might have avoided being hit on the head! LOL
I should be helping the algorithm more often :-) . I am glad to see this channel rise in popularity. Congratulations.
Thank you for showing me this!!! I would have never thought how important this is. So many things make sense now.
Wow, I learned so much in this short video, so informative, felt like I was in a woodworking class, perfect, thank you
Loving that hinged track saw setup. That has really got me thinking about my own workshop, I don't have a lot of room but this could be a good fix!
..... just make sure the track does'nt continually fall down on to your head ! .....
@@terencefranks1688 😂😂 right?
Excellent job! Great video! Straight forward, plain and simple with no unnecessary talking. Subscribed
Thank you. I like how concise you are. You got straight to the point but still gave enough info to explain.
Kismet. Just starting some kitchen cabinets. My first. Thank you.
Peter is a consummate professional. Great explanations with equally great demonstrations to illustrate the point. I loved how he took the time to square up his work piece as he was nailing it together while knowing he was going to pull it apart immediately. It's that attention to details (even ones that don't matter in this case) that leads to such fine craftsmanship. Very well done video.
Thank you! 👍
Hi there Phartan 117 . Yes I agree with you , Peter is the real thing . I have been doing this sort of work for fifty years and that before one srarts with any project it is a good idea to think about the possibilities that the finish product is going to be exposed to , this is the mechanics of the structure . Then , of course , is the aesthetics which is quite important . With all this in mind one can build good and functional , not only cabinets but , all sorts of things . Keep it clean , keep it simple . And in the end you will find that you will develop your own style . Cheers!
No nonsense, just densely packed with useful information. Thank you!
Nothing better than proof, no discussions needed about this after watching this movie. Great job !
"Once you see it you can't unsee it." True, no matter how small the defect... :-)
Lol. This post will come back to me next time I look in the mirror.
This is such valuable information, new people are entering the craft all the time and these tips need telling frequently, cheers Peter.
Thanks Stephen! 👍👍
Really appreciate how this video was put together, clear and informative, thank you!
I agree. Simple, information and straightforward
Great video! I don’t build cabinets, but I still found this very informative.
I made a tool cabinet that rolls on castors. I used full size base and top to give maximum vertical compression strength. The finished job is faced with commercial banner material. To date it has worked well. It was more hassle to fit shelves but I believe worth the effort.
Thank you...great video, presentation, demonstration, explanation, simplicity, clarity...
That's the channel I have been looking for for ages. Thank you so much.
Love it, you explained super clear and with great examples ❤️
Thank you! 👍
I think it's important to determine whether the cabinet is compressed or tensioned to decide on the wanted assembly configuration. For a floor standing cabinet you'd be better off with the sides inside the top and bottom. The way loads are normally applied on standing cabinets causes compression to the cabinet instead of tension. In this scenario it would be like your first experiment, but with pushing the vertical piece down toward the workbench instead of pulling up like you did. That's far stronger because you don't rely on your fasteners to take the load at all. For wall hung cabinets it is indeed better to have the top and bottom inside just like you explained. for the aesthetics it also depends on the case, and for ease of production I absolutely agree with you. Great video.
Wouldn’t a cabinet under compression often have a separate top added to the carcass, as in a counter top or desk top, In which case top and bottom inside the sides remains a good solution?
@@CaptainofmyShed in case of an additional top, well In this case you have both and it's better of course, even though the bottom one won't take any significant load and therefore might be unnecessary. Don't forget the bottom piece, it still transfers the load from the sides to the feet. So you still benefit from setting up and cutting it to the outside dimensions. At this point it would make sense to also cut the top to the same measurements and benefit from the consistant appearance.
Thanks for the info! I came to ask about this because the video specified that it was for wall-hung cabinets, but what if mine were sitting on the floor? You answered my question. =)
I had a similar thought looking at the thumbnail. I thought it was a simple side table or bookshelf that would take load better under compression in the “post and lintel” style. That said I definitely learned something from watching and for that I subscribed👍
Very valid points when hanging cabinets! Thank you!
That saw track really had it out for you! Thank you so much for this really informative video!
In a company I've worked for 9 years we usually worked with 45º cuts. Depending on the size of the furniture, we used some wooden "biscuits" joints (with carpenter glue) to mount it afterwards. It always worked pretty well
How are you hanging them? No way I’d trust a wall-hung cabinet with biscuited bevel joints unless they were on some very heavy fixings, personally. 🤷♂️👍
The only exception to this is with base units (floor level) where the lower corners should have the sides sitting on the base. Ideally, the cabinet feet should also be positioned as close as possible to the cabinet sides to provided support for all the weight that will be bearing on those sides (crockery, pots and pans, granite worktops, large Belfast sinks etc). To cover any unsightly joints, you can incorporate end panels into your design.
Only the lower corners? Is there a reason why you wouldn’t do the top the same way so everything is sitting on top of each other vertically? Also curious to hear whether Mr Millard also does his this way?
@@JameysVideos Many base units are not made with tops, and only have a couple of rails (horizontal components) between the tops of the sides (front and back), because there'll be a worktop of some sort being put on. And, these rails are only necessary to hold the sides at the correct distance apart while fixing the case to the frame, with the rear rail providing an edge to screw the top of the cabinet's back to. The worktop will be directly in contact with the tops of the sides, so as long as the sides are supported properly, there shouldn't be a problem.
Found this video really useful. I’m about to build a Dj console which is essentially a long shallow box. I’m planning this for the sides to go on top of the base as this will put less stress (no stress) on the screws. I’ll do the same with the front and back panels but the left and right sides will be attached on the outside. Then the top will go on for a nice smooth surface. I’m cutting the squares out to sink the decks and mixer in so they will be flush with the surface.
Good video! Simple but very informative with examples of the various way of doing things and applying logic to the manufacturing.
Great video series idea that sums up all your previous build videos!!! My carcasses have all been with the top sitting on top of the sides. This was primarily because I was stacking carcasses on top of each other for a wall unit or a miter saw stand. That way I could distribute the weight across the top and then the top sat directly on the sides. However, the issue is getting all four sides to line up during glue up!! This has become such an issue that I have given up on this approach. Add to that situation, the use of dominos for joints and I am amazed I ever got the carcasses square and glued up!! Thanks!!
Reasons 1, 2 and 3 shown - reason 0 is actually the important one: cabinets NEED to be all the same *height*. Differing widths, the eye doesn't notice - cabinets abut each other, micro-variations in width dont matter. But micro-variations is what you get, between sheets of board AND edging applications: in the trade, this is called "cabinet creep". For example: make cabinet of H600, W300. Let board thickness = t. Assume T=20mm for your calculations. Incorrectly made box (top+bot overpassing sides) has sides of H560. But T *actually* is 20.2mm - now your box is 0.4mm higher than your end panels you've cut/bought! Whereas with sides overpassing, that thickness defect *goes to the middle*, ie. the opening is reduced by that 0.4mm... But nobody's counting that - fingers feel unflush parts, eyes don't unsee and houseguests dont forget 😂😂😂 This is even more critical for BASE cabinets, as you need a dead-level surface for natural stone tops to sit upon. Else, trouble. And oven towers/stacked cabinets: cabinet creep quickly adds up to be +\- up to 2mm, as compared to bought-in end panels.
That's largely exaggerated. By the time the installer sets up the cabinets, you will definitely have some variation, with absolutely no consequence visually or structurally. The stone countertop will be just fine because the countertop installer uses shims anyway. Been there, done that.
@@vapeurdepisse never had a countertop installer use shims on my cabinets. And we're taking about upper cabinets as well. And sit-in-top cabinets. Been there, done this for 15years straight.
You’ve been doing this for 15 years and you assume the thickness of a material instead of actually measuring it and then doing your calculations with that number? Seems a very simple way to avoid the whole problem you described and was the first thing I learned day one on the job: “measure twice, cut once”.
There can be a 0.3mm variation between sheetgoods, just from the manufacturer's different batches. There can be that much variation in a sheet, even. Like everything, not all products are equal. Some processes have thickness checks built into them. For example, I double-sided nest about 40t of MDF p.a. As it's profiled on both the face and reverse, the thickness of the sheet is calipered for each sheet processed. However, for the other 120 tons of board on the single-sided line - software, fittings and construction method cover it all. I might only check the board thickness 3 times p. a.
The credit reel along with the ending footage won me over and I subscribed!
Thank you, and welcome! 👍👍
Between that and the intro it nearly made me turn off
So glad to see these basic tutorials on your channel Peter. Your clear explanation will be a massive help to those just starting and demonstrated better than can be explained in a FB group. Can see links to this being posted in groups for a long time to come!
Thanks Ian! All the vids in this series will be in a playlist for easy access, too! 👍
Your English is very clear. Everyone can follow and understand. Enjoyed the video.
This was a big confidence booster. I have no experience with making cabinets, but I've seen it done, and it never struck me as being too complicated. At some point, I heard someone say cabinets were "the most technically complicated part of any building," and that gave me a lasting fear of trying. I see now that they are far more approachable than I ever realized.
I'm glad you posted this right after I finished up some wall cabinets with the top/bottom outside the sides 😂
Haha, sorry! 😬 They'll be fine - but this is my preferred way. 🤷♂️👍
😂😂😂
I feel bad. Same here, but by pure laziness of not cutting different lengths for shelves Vs tops and bottoms, I did it how the vid suggests. Bum luck lol. I actually thought I was choosing a mechanically weaker option. Though these are stand alone shelves not a cabinet. So arguably the down force is. 😜
You can rotate the whole cabinet 90 degrees and you'll have your top/bottom between the sides.
@@syaani genuine lol. Both funny and true. Just take care your plates don't smash when you do it 😁
Hello Peter, Thank you for your video, as someone starting out looking into woodworking it's been tremendously helpful! Sean
Very helpful, making a mobile cart w/ drawers for my bandsaw and was musing over the carcass construction. Now I'm convinced - top and bottom go inside the side walls.
Nice, you really are going back to the basics. Can't wait for the rest of the series
Thanks! 👍
Love that adding a rabbet makes the joint include the advantages of both.
It also gives you exponentially more surface area for glue. Not that MDF glues particularly well, though, but it applies in principle to hardwoods and softwoods.
Ah, you can glue MDF well if you seal the cut edges first before gluing. I tested this out a while back when trying to make a box to insert in between the studs of my wall for integrated storage. You can either lather wood glue into the cut end(and it will suck up a heck of a lot) or I tried with a hi voc varnish just in the edge, and this worked a treat. Purely on just the end to side glue, the sealed edges were able to take 4 times the weight of an unprepared edge before snapping off, and it wasn't even the glue snapping but the surface of the side mdf tearing slightly.
@@timothymbess I don't think that word means what you think it means (exponentially). A rabbet can, at most, give just under twice the surface area for glue (assuming both boards are the same thickness). But to get that much requires a very thin portion of the board. More typically the rabbet will give you an extra 50%.
@@XJWill1 Inconceivable!
@@XJWill1 I was just about to say that. I think covid has made the word popular.
Oh my God! I want that shop! Coolest bench/clamp/saw combo ever!
This guy knows his stuff! Brilliant- i like the fast paced delivery of information. Feels like alot of thought and prep goes into these videos
Thank you! 🙌👍
Nice video!!! I think that both metods have diferents advantages, in case of a kitchen cabinet with plastic legs and a huge piece of marble on the top "the above metod" i think that can suport this weight in a better way because is sitting on the sides and in your case the weight is on the screws or whatever you use in this join. In terms of aesthetics sometimes this cabinets goes under a final panels of with a clean finish (melamine,...) and so the screws are no longer visible. Anyhow good point on your explanation too. Keed your great work!!!
The heavy counter wouldn't rest on the screws because you're supposed to have a slight reveal so that the sides are in contact with the counter, not the top.
@@vapeurdepisse he means if the granite is sitting on the side panels as it should be, and the side panels are only supported by the fixings into the base panel, and the cabinet feet don’t sit under the side panels, then the weight of the granite would be on the fixings into the base panel. This is resolved by the cabinet feet being shaped to also support the side panels.
Great video as always. I however bet to differ on the stress test you conducted. The concern should be on the weight the inner board can bear before it fails and not trying to rip the carcass out. I believe the one set on top because it rests on the two side boards is much stronger. You make a good point with the aesthetics tough. Thank you for sharing.
The track for your saw being hinged on the bench is brilliant.
Thanks, it is! 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop did you build this or buy it? incredible
@@rollthetape88 Festool MFT table
When you said brilliant I was thinking on Paul Whitehouse lol!
Yeah well you nailed it. Was searching this yesterday. Came across this link. Easily the simplest and detailed info out there. Thanks !
Great series of videos. It’s always nice to refresh and fully understand some of the fundamentals. Side note, there’s something soothing about listening and learning from you English folks. Your’s and Peter Seller’s voice soothes as I learn. Thanks!
Thanks! 👍👍
Great video. Thanks for sharing. Congratulations on having a sponsor for making this kind of series. Thanks for bringing physics into woodworking. It made it very understandable. 32 years ago I made particle board cubes. The back was made of plywood or hardboard. They were made to stand next and on each other. Since the 4 main parts were squares 30x30 cm. It wasn't a real cube. But when putting it together I put the top part ON the side parts. Wrong, or an exception to the rule? Some of the cubes are still "alive" and in use.
Not wrong at all Hans; as I say very specifically in the video, I'm talking about wall-hung cabinets here - though personally I'd still fit the top & base between the sides on a floor-mounted box, just for the additional benefits. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thanks for your comment. Way back then I didn't have any knowledge of woodworking. The pieces of 30x30 cm were cut in the store where I bought the whole sheets. Painting (and drying of the paint) took forever and the only tools I had was a drill, a drill standard, some drill bits and screwdriver bits. But it was fun making it. The additional benefits of doing it your way are obvious so I know how to do it in the future. I'm looking forward to the rest of the series. A 101 video about making drawers I'd highly welcome. There are a lot of myths about that as well.
Joint - 1 ; Head - 0 In all seriousness, this is a great series. Thank you for taking the time to produce this.
Thanks! 🤕😂😂👍
Very helpful video thanks a lot. I like the way it quickly gets to the point, instead of labouring it
Peter, you channel is such a blessing! Thanks for always making such quality videos!!
Thank you! 🙌👍
Finally! I've been looking for this type of information for a long time. Thank you in advance.
Thanks! 👍
Doesn't tell the whole story though. He only addresses hanging cabinets. For a base cabinet, the primary load is compressing down on the top and having the top piece go through to the end will spread out the load a bit and never fail. It's not that critical in cabinets but in something that needs to bear a lot of compressive weight it's something to consider. I'd still go with this video's recommendation 9 times out of 10.
@@littlebrother82 Thanks. That's along the line of information I would like to learn. Do you have anymore to share?
@@Goalsplus I remember this coming up when someone was building a shop cart (mobile workbench). It was simple, a plywood base with casters, some ply corner uprights and a top. He had screwed the uprights into the side of the base, which would fail if under a bunch of weight. If the uprights go on top of the base, it could withstand much more punishment. I think he found a middle ground by adding an extra piece on the inside, so it ended up having the best of both worlds.
I do hope you put these videos into a one playlist so we can come back easily
Yes, indeed! DOn't think I've done that yet, but I will! Thanks! 👍
Thank you! You answered the exact question I had been wondering about making corners in a future project.
This was really informative, thanks! I'm intrigued though by the track saw as a table saw. Seems like the best of both worlds for someone trying to decide which to get
You’re going to need a hard hat 😅
cant believe i got excited watching this. absolutely loved this, would love to gain experience in cabinetry work
Thanks Peter, this video is very helpful. I appreciate the time you put in to educate others. This video will be a big help when I start building my cabinets. ✌️
You are very welcome. 👍
Thank you for laying out your reasoning so clearly. I also appreciate that you left in clips where the track swung down and bopped you in the noggin. A cautionary tale about workshop safety! 😂
You're the best! I've always wondered about that. You always show and explain things so well, whether it's a more complicated process or something basic like this that some people may not think is important to point out. I think I may have to stay away from track saws though. They're so dangerous. 🤣 Hope your headache is better.👍
Next episode - when tracksaws attack - out next week! 😂 And thanks! 🙌 👍
You just got me smilling so loud😁 .
Glad to hear it, thanks! 😂 👍
That was surprisingly helpful. Thank you! You saved me from making an amateur mistake I would have regretted!
Brilliant. Workshop destroyed, slight whiff of concussion…. Point made. Fab!!
The amount of times my rail has hit me when I least expect it. 😂 nice video.👍🏻
They're sneaky like that! And thanks! 👍
I enjoyed you getting hit in the head by the rail a bit too much! Great video, and well explained as per usual. An essential channel for me. Thanks.
Oh, how I laughed! 😂 And thanks! 👍👍
Sadist!
Only watched two videos of yours and already learning alot! thank you Peter!
I appreciate this video because it is simple and informative! Some times these things go over my head, and I'm glad there is someone like you making these videos!
Glad it was helpful! 👍
What is the make of the jig table you are using?@@10MinuteWorkshop
This is the kind of basic craftmanship education i wish someone had taught me in highschool!
Soon in your local entertainment store : Peter Millard , the Ultimate dvd edition : the bloopers .Count me in ...
Haha - boxed set available this Christmas! 😂🤡👍
This is not only high quality information but also high quality entertainment. Thank you so much!
Thank you! 😆👍
Thanks a mil Peter, I really enjoy you very informative videos. I watched this video some tome back and watched it again today just to be sure my memory had not failed me.
It's funny, I ran test before building my cupboard for my stacked washer and dryer. I came the same conclusion that it was dependant on the forces I was applying to the cabinet. Screw and glue and what was resting above.
👍
Thank you, first time I've heard this, and seen an actual example test. How's your head after being whacked?
Thanks! And all well - no sense, no feeling, and all that... 😂 👍
Always appreciate the material you present and how you present the topics. A big thank you from a relatively new woodworker out of US
Thank you very much! 🙌 👍
Thanks Peter! Perfect timing for all of the shop cabinets in about to build. Can’t wait to see the rest of the series, definitely just subscribed to your channel.
Thanks Travis, and welcome! 👍👍
Thanks Peter, I'm really looking forward to watching the rest of this series.
Thanks!👍
10 seconds into the video at I’m thinking to myself “this guys sounds cool I wish he was my uncle”. I’ve never used a power tool in my life but I’m getting the feeling I’m gonna watch every single one of these videos. 🤣
🙌😆👍👍
Just the kind of thing I need. All the tips in one series.Great stuff! Can’t wait for the next one
Thanks! P2 should be out next week, with 3 & 4 to follow. 👍
Thank you for the great info. You present a very lucid and sensible reason for what you are doing.
Thank you! 👍
Anyone else stared your workbench for hours procrastinating on how you want to put your box together 😆
Today
So much time spent staring at tools/projects with no idea how to proceed 😂
😂😂😂😂😂
No.
I would simply make my cabinets or dressers based on the aesthetic. I’m glad to learn there are two more benefits to keep doin what I’m doin.
great video ! i like they way you talk , calm and to the point...!!!
Thank you. Building a box and knowing the correct way screws and side to be attached to Strength!
This is why they call KZhead a free college. Killer details
Thanks! 👍
Rail hitting P. Millard - Like a Family Guy episode - Peter Griffin gets beaten by something over and over exceeding people's normal patience level..
😂👍
5 minutes into the video I see you sir using an ESTWING hammer...you surely worth your salt to be using such a high craftsman tool...Great respect to you and anybody who knows and works with an ESTWING hammer...👍👍👍👍now for the rest of the video which in it's self is very educational👏👏👏👏🇿🇦🇿🇦🇿🇦🇿🇦
Thanks! 👍
I was about to ask about screws and nails and how that would change which way to connect the cabinet together, but I see the next part is about screws and nails, will have to watch that now
Looks like a great series. Just seeing this first video of the series makes me think that you missed one thing to mention however. You do explain and show why having a top and bottom between sides has benefits but you do not show the benefits of having top and bottom over and below the sides. And the main benefit is that if you intend to build a piece of furniture that is going to be standing on the floor and you are intending to put some heavy things on the top then it is simply going to be stronger for the very same reasons you explained. I am looking forward to seeing the whole series!
Thanks Adrian! I do make it clear that this is a wall-hung cabinet, and TBH I would always have the sides run all the way through to the top even if it was floor-mounted *unless there was a very good reason not to* eg if there was an overhanging top. The bottom edge of the sides is either supported either by the plinth, or the adjustable feet, and in the case of the overhanging top, then I'd have rails front & back of the carcass that the top could bear against, and be fixed to. Hope that makes sense! P 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Yes - makes sense. As always - do what works for you I guess. I had few projects where it had to be the way I described but I agree - having the same width makes all much quicker. All the best!
@@10MinuteWorkshop ...I suppose also if it was not a ceiling tall stand alone wardrobe then the sides are best on the inside since it is very likely things would be stacked on top for example a suitcase full of items. If it has wheels at the base again the sides would need to be on the inside. I now your builds are generally with a plinth and to ceiling height so I can understand your way :), its just that 1%
I am from Argentina and when the furniture rests all the weight on the base I assemble it as you say. I hardly ever build as proposed in the video for multiple reasons. Every situation has its solution. Hug
Thanks, I was REALLY surprised by this video! It’s very informative. I’ve got two questions about this: 1. It seems this is really only for wall cabinets. Cabinets that are at eye level or on the floor like sideboards are usually made the other way around, and that seems logical to me (and also aesthetically more pleasing, since you can see the top). Is this correct? 2. Okay, if the top is on top of the sides, a nail won’t hold the sides very securely because it’s just thin and doesn’t really have any grip. But what about a good screw? And does this differ in any significant way between MDF and plywood? Thanks!
Hey, I know your looking for a reply from the guy who made the video, but I’ve been a professional cabinet maker of 18 years (meaning I get paid to do it, not that I’m a master haha). 1) it is a little different for a base cabinet. The top of your base cabinet will basically be a countertop, which should sit on top of the cabinet sides. It depends on the specific case you want to build. If I have an additional top to go on the cabinet after it’s made, I personally still put the integral top of the cabinet between the sides, for shear strength of the pins/screws/nails when I lift and move the cabinet 2) using screw does not change what the video taught you. The shear strength of the screw is way more then the strength of the screw threads in any material, be it plywood or Mdf. Imagine pulling a screw with a hammer: more difficult then pulling a nail, but not as much pressure as you would need to sheer off the screw.
@@NotMyRealName541 Thanks, both points make perfect sense to me! ☺️ 🙌 I have built a wall-mounted sideboard and a wall-mounted bathroom vanity the weaker way because I wanted neat countertops and so far, they haven’t fallen apart yet (they are 5 years old now - I hope it won’t happen when they age more). But for my new project, I’ve changed the design after seeing this video! Now I’m doing what you’ve mentioned, sandwiching the integral top between the sides and then putting a thinner top plate on top of everything. I’m just an amateur but these videos and comments help me improve!
Another great video as they say every days a school day. thank you and stay safe.
Brilliant~! I've had this question in my head for so many years and the answer seems so obvious, yet it alluded me. Thank you so much for clearing this up~! Looking forward to the rest of this series~!!
Thank you! 👍👍