Shed Electrical Installation (How to Add Electricity to a Shed - DIY)
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Disclaimer - This video is for Entertainment purposes only. Electrical work SHOULD ONLY be performed by a Licensed Electrician.
In this video, I show you How to Add Electricity to a Shed. Shed Electrical Installation projects are not as hard as you think. However, be sure to consult with a licensed electrician for all work associated with adding electricity to a shed. Do not perform this work on your own unless you are licensed to do so. Follow all local code requirements. This step-by-step video tutorial will show you everything you need to know so that you can add electricity to your own shed or outdoor structure. This method worked for me, but every shed electricity installation is a little different.
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Always run at least two cables to your shed, and dedicate one to your lights. If you're working at night, using a power tool, and it trips the breaker, you won't be left in the dark with a spinning saw blade, or whatever. I suggest 15 amp for the lights, and 20 amp for your power tools.
Great point. Plus I don't like running Romex in conduit. Could have made an easy pull with just a couple hots, a neutral and ground. Use a two pole breaker if you do. Good luck ever pulling the Romex out of that conduit.
It's a code violation to run two diffetent feeders to an outbuilding like that (unless you have special circumstances like a switch at the other end controlling an outdoor light, different power source, etc.). You generally get one feeder, although a multi wire circuit still counts as one. So, you could do a pair of 20 amp circuits to a shed on a shared neutral in a single 10/3 (or 12/3 if close).
@@richardhouser2414 That's not a feeder, it's a branch circuit.
Run 240v cable and add subpanel in shed.
you're actually running 3 or 4... at least in the us.. then setting up a subpanel and putting in different breakers for the lights than the outlets/tools... theres no issue here...
Very informative and well explained! The comments and tips by the other viewers was very helpful as well! Thanks to all!
Andrew, Love the easy to follow step by step. Regarding pulling the cable through the conduit, what I would offer as a tip: Since you performed the appropriate sweeping bends, this is super easy to pull romex through... Fully glue and bury your conduit... Option A: pull mule tape or 1/4" nylon rope through the conduit as you go. Option B: fully assemble all the way to just before your junction boxes and using a vacuum, you can suck the mule tape through the full length by tying a large cotton ball to the end of your mule tape/nylon rope. once the rope is in the conduit, you can use conduit lube to pull your electrical through the fully buried line... and since it's buried, it won't budge. Knowing that you did this build completely by yourself, the way you did it is perfectly acceptable considering you only had a single pair of hands, but you can save yourself a decent chunk of time sucking mule tape, then pulling cable through lubed conduit. Cheers, great video!
You cannot run any Romex outside of the house, as it’s considered a wet location, even in pvc.
7:35 - Andrew: wipes off any extra pvc cement purely for ascetics Also Andrew: gets pvc cement on shed
Haha you'll find a lot of crap like that here.
@@AndrewThronImprovements Cheers bro, great video
Thanks for the video! You did a wonderful job building that shed and you gave us a lot of ideas on how to run electric to our sheds. My advice to those interested in doing their own electric would be to watch a lot of videos on this subject and read all of the associated comments. You will find a wealth of knowledge in the comment section and get an idea of what Andrew did right and where Andrew could have improved on his installation. To those who are critical of his work, I suggest that you help the rest of us by putting out your own videos on this subject. Thanks again for the work you put into this, Andrew. We all can learn from our mistakes, but we can never learn without attempting to try our hand at it.
I had a 50 Amp feed done years ago and I'm so glad I did.... it has both electric heat (5KW) and AC.... and its only a 12 X 8! but I love it!
pro tip: take a couple photos of the full length of buried conduit before you backfill it for future reference (or make a sketch with annotated specifications.) locator services for underground utilities never mark DIYers' buried stuff.
Even some utilities, like cable, do some "shady stuff"... they did a fix here a few years ago and literally ran their splice about 3 inches under the soil... I took a pic since I have to edge that bed every year. We also get frost heave here, so there are a couple other spots where the cable tv coax migrated and is literally laying on the ground, thanks to grass growing thatch, no issue in the lawn, only in beds and that gets mulched over. Granted, there's no safety risk.
Tracer ribbon is always a good idea too.
I love the video and it looks perfect to me. I will def use this video as a reference! Thanks!!
ProTip- always add a spare conduit, you can use this for low volt, telecomm, or if the other conduit fails, you can use the second one, you wont easily get another chance to trench later on. CodeTip- Most circuits are required to be 18 inches down in pvc, not 12 inches. Thats only an exception for GFCI protected wiring ProTip- Its very for the GFCI to nuissance trip in years to come, because water ALWAYS gets into the conduit, if the wire gets damaged at some point, you will lose power without the GFCI. You dont want to be chained to a GFCI for power, they are not reliable long term Look up the 'NEC burial depth chart' and make sure its from the last few years to be certain [also your not supposed to use romex in outdoor conduit, but as long as it doesnt go underground, its not a huge deal]
People like you is the reason we have a National Electrical code!
lol... says the electrician who didn't get paid for this job
that non-metallic sheathed cable is swimming in water
Yes.
I've seen a lot worse than this; some from licensed electricians. :{ He did a great job building the shed!
Ok cuck
Great job! It gave me some inspiration.
really good video... thorough and well organized and compact!!!
Appreciate it! Thanks for watching!
@6:10 No, if you're going to use non-metallic sheathed cable in underground conduit for some reason, it must be type UF. The interior of conduit outside or underground is considered a wet location (they always end up with some water in them). But it makes no sense to run UF in conduit; it's expensive and a pain to work with. Cheaper and easier to run individual 12 gauge THWN wires. Also, you cannot run the wires/cables as you go. NEC 300.18(A) says the conduit must be installed as a complete run before running any conductors. This helps ensure you don't have too many bends and/or the conduit isn't too small.
I was actually dinged on an inspection for using sheathed cable in conduit. I was told it would not disperse heat properly.
@@usmc6153 Yea you here that sometimes and it's not true. Sheathed cable is installed in exterior walls buried in inches of insulation without problem. Its conductors are massively derated; they use 90 degrees C insulated conductors, but the ampacity of the cable is calculated using the 60 degrees C column. In some limited situations Code even requires it in conduit to protect from physical damage (334.15(B)).
You cannot use NMC in conduit per code. Have I done it in a residential situation, yes, usually to protect the cable from damage. if I was running this, I would use 1-inch pipe and pull conductors to give you options later. put for a DIY installed, this will last forever with no issues.
@@bryankrall8302 Where does it say that in Code? I don't see anything about it in 334.12. I know flexible cords can't per 400.12(6), but I can't find anything similar for NM. It's a dumb thing to do bur I don't see any prohibition for it.
@@barryomahony4983 NEC 300.18(A) "Exception: Short sections of raceways used to contain conductors or cable assemblies for protection from physical damage shall not be required to be installed complete between outlet, junction, or splicing points."
Depth of trench is from top of conduit to grade.
Good coverage, well done.
Great job man. Succinct explanation 👍
Good job on the wiring and great looking shed! Heres to the new movement to turn she sheds back into HE SHEDS!!👍
solid video and nice shed! i think im gonna forgo the gfci outlet with an all in one breaker tho. 1 less thing to worry about.
Your shed turned out great! These videos gave me some good tips while I’ve been building mine. I’m just about to do my electrical also and am trying to figure out if I can use romex inside. I was thinking of using the metal clad aluminum (MC cable) instead of romex since it will be permanently exposed. I really do not want to run conduit everywhere.
good looking shed
Hand unroll that coil of wire, to prevent twisting which led to piping difficulty. Great job!
Excellent informative instructional how-to video - one of the best. I learned a lot from this. Thank you so much my friend !!
Headline says "DIY". Then description says only do if licensed. Got it. If I was licensed I wouldn't need this video.
Well Done , sir.
U did a great job congrats
Thanks!
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
Andrew you get better and better with each video. I loved the floor treatment, which I am considering for my screened porch. Thanks so much ; can't wait for more. Pat
Appreciate it, Patrick! Thanks again for continually supporting the Channel!
excellent video!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
WHAT A SHED!☕️👍
Buried conduit is considered a wet environment in code, so that UF-B was mandatory once you were in the buried conduit. Honestly seems like you might as well have started with UF-B. NEC does not demand 24" in all circumstances, that is the deepest general recommendation. One way you could have done this is to put a GFCI or dual function breaker at the panel, and run UF-B right from the main panel to your shed branch circuit.
I believe the round boxes for the spotlights must be flush with the OUTSIDE SURFACE of your sheathing...
That shed looks great. The electrical comments were very helpful. I see why you did it the way you did. My only comments are that i would have put the switches on the inside and used smart switches to set up timers and to be able to control them remotely. Do you have to use fire blocking rated caulk or spray foam for that penetration to your basement? I'm not sure when that applies.
I believe fire rated caulk or foam is only required to seal penetrations between living spaces to prevent fire spreading from floor-to-floor or room-to-room. That’s what my builder relayed to me when I was running cat 6 in our house.
I just bought a house that has power going to the shed its a 20 amp breaker and they followed the same guidelines on the depth so I know now by watching this video that my shed is safe and the guys who did the work knew what they were doing. I enjoy watching the different videos of each project very educational. TY
Thanks for the info
Thanks for watching!
Looks easy enough.😳
Nice work. Would have liked to see the overhead led light at night!
Can’t believe I forgot to include that! I just posted a reel on IG that shows the overhead LED at night over @Atimprovements. Thanks for watching, Matthew!
Great video! Would you link the light fixtures on front of shed? TIA
For your information the number of curves you used is higher than the NEC code electric recommend. 358.26 Bends - Number in One Run. “There shall not be more than the equivalent of four quarter bends (360 degrees total) between pull points, for example, conduit bodies and boxes.”
Should have used a sub panel at the shed and ran a thicker wire, like a 6 for future upgrades, AC/Heat, outlets, lights, etc.
Neat video
#2 Conduit has to be built then wire pulled! The glue will melt the sheathing on the cable. you will nick the cable doing it that way and it will be compromised. All conduits underground will have water in them no matter how much glue you put on the conduit, If you nicked the wire (which you did) is compromised.
and good luck with the 5 90's
I would have ran extra amperage to shed and used stranded wire. Would hope wires could be pulled through conduit if necessary. Switches for exterior lights on shed should be installed inside house. Wouldn't have to run outside when the lights needed to be turned off. Good job on keeping burial depth in mind though.
Can't wait to plug in my two headed 100watt light bulbs into my antique stand up lamp that I always have near my extra lightweight drapes
thanks great vid, I learn a lot, electricity is scary to me.
Nice job, but you'll need to walk to the house if you trip a breaker. Do you need to cover the exposed horizonal runs of Romex so that they can't be damaged from accidental contact or used to hang things or used as a ladder to reach higher items?
A good air compressor can assist in feeding the a rope by blowing air down the conduit the direction you push the cord. Then you can tie the cord to your wire and pull it through. It's good idea to pull another cord through if youd like to pull other curcuits like cable, internet or speaker wire.
Huge rookie mistake at 9:18. NEVER fasten two wires onto a single terminal on a switch or receptacle! Always join them to a third, single wire using a wire connector, then wrap that single wire around the terminal. You espouse doing things to code, but that double-wrapped wire will fail code inspections pretty much everywhere.
i saw that also
I came to say the same thing. Two grounds on a single ground terminal is a no-go. He needs to go back and pigtail it or one of those fancy ground pass through.
Gotta use a pigtail
Yeah, I'm no electrician but I've done light electrical work and this part let me know the creator might not know what he's doing.
Wow in Australia our excavation deep is 1000mm or 3 and 1/3 feet 😅 you’re so lucky
in Canada we can drop a treated 2x4 on top and save a few inches of fill
Is there a reason you have that hole drilled in the vertical 4x4 that you mounted your GFC outlet onto?
Having a wood post in the ground is good for attracting termites.
I'm actually surprised your electrician didn't put in a GFCI breaker in the panel knowing that everything that circuit will feed is outside, in fact I believe the NEC mandates that GFCI protection must begin at or before the transition point from interior to exterior in a branch circuit. That 20 amp single circuit feeding your shed is kind of small, that only leaves enough power for lights and a few small power tools like a circular saw or jig saw. I would have ran an 80 or 100 amp feed to the shed and put a small sub panel out there and branched everything off of that, but I also have a drill press, 60 gallon compressor, a 2 HP table saw, and a 5000 btu window A/C in my shed/shop which is much more than most homeowners normally have.
He's using it to store a lawn mower and shovels, etc. I seriously doubt he would ever need 100 amps out there. LOL
Conduits are considered a wet environment by code so romex is a no no.
The inside of conduits outdoors or underground are considered wet locations, like the one under the deck in this video; in dry locations they are considered dry locations.
Yeah I imagine that its a better idea to go to the foundation with Romex than a junction box , then go thhn to a larger level size than you think you'll need now (within reason 😉) as the price between 14 and 10 is a matter of a few bucks and having to buy 14 ft now and fishing vs buying 10awg and fishing is not so cheap...
@@pld8993 that’s a good point. Conduit isn’t a wet location by default, it depends where it’s installed.
@@OrdinaryDude67 Any conduit outside or underground is a wet location.
@@bobniles1928 mostly correct, and conduit installed indoors is a dry location.
One other little thing. You're not allowed to have more than 360 degrees worth of bends between pull points in your conduit. You have two 90's right at the bottom of the house, one 90 a few feet away, what looks like a 45 right before the shed, and then a 90 going up. That's 405 degrees total.
Why is that?
@@sarimjk I would assume its because each turn adds to the difficulty in pulling the cable through.
Because he was supposed to build the entire pipe before pulling through with a fish wire/tape, which would be next to impossible with more than 360 degrees. I doubt anyone would even be able to pull it out without digging up the pipe.@@sarimjk
Nice how to video. I especially liked the min depth graphic. One question, for some reason I am under the impression I should only used lose wires and not romex though. Just want to get your opinion on that if you don't mind. ty!
You can't use NM (romex) underground, but you can direct bury UF cable or direct burial rated individual conductors. If using conduit, individual THHN conductors is your best option. Installing UF in conduit underground, while allowed, is amateurish and foolish.
Nice tutorial. Is it ok to join the PVC in place with the cable running through it? I thought that was verboten.
You’re correct that is against code.
Good video, I think it's good if you make a follow up or edit this video to show and explain your mistakes and code infractions
I’m doing this tomorrow but I’m burying under concrete to my garage from house do those depths still apply for concrete ?
When I read the National Electric Code (NEC) the conduit had to be fully assembled before the wire was pulled through. If you plan on storing gas powered equipment in the shed then read the part of the code that explains when explosion proof fittings are needed. Generally the plan is developed and drawn so that with the aid of the drawing and parts list a permit can be issued. No permit means your home owners insurance may not pay if something goes wrong.
Yes, conduit is required to be completed before installing conductors but a residential shed is not a hazardous location requiring explosion-proof fittings.
Good video. I believe it is against code to run Romex through conduit. My understanding is that you must use THHN or similar. It's also my understanding that if conduit has >360* on bends there needs to be a junction box, not sure if you have that many or not. I counted 4 x 90* so that may be within the rule.
Romex is allowed, and sometimes required, in conduit.
Thanks for your informational video. You should add KLEIN TOOLS Clear Wire Lubricant to your list. It will make wire pulling much more effortless.
hahaha this guy doesn't pull he pushes wire
Andrew what state are you in nice vid BTW
At 9:18 the ground wire is wound backward on the green ground screw.
Non metallic sheath cable is not rated for wet locations. This is a code violation. If you would’ve ran UF cable (sleeved with PVC conduit) outside under the deck you would be good. And you should’ve used expansion fittings transitioning out of the ground to the structure. When the ground moves it expands and contracts, it will pull PVC apart.
So run UF-B all the way?
@@jamesstuart3700 yes or install conductors rated for wet and damp locations.
Pvc is rated for underground and wet. Shut up.
@@chrispopp2713 But NM in PVC is not rated for wet. Shut up.
one could argue the deck is damp not wet, but best practice would also be to unsheath the entire run in conduit.
5:27 Normally it is 18" for PVC burial. I have not heard of the 20 amp GFI protected exception. I will look into it.
Table 300.5, Column 4
@@pld8993 it's the code book troll!!🤣🤣🤣
@@dhazz1536 Your senility is bubbling to the surface.
@pld8993 can you find the code reference that state no more than 360 degrees of bend in a single conduit raceway?😂
@@BrawnsonDyer As with most things in the code you can find the answer in a number of places but I found it in 352.26.
How many bends did you have between junction boxes?
Do you put gravel under the pvc conduit?
Could you just go with a GFCI breaker instead of an outlet before going below grade?
now he has an outlet for Christmas lights....
The light switch is across the yard?
you must ground the circuit at a sub panel at a shed with a ground rod
if it's a feeder over 20A, not a branch cct.
Not how i would have done it, but nothing wrong with it. good work. pulling romex through conduit is rough. I would have switched to thwn but i understand but i understand your process.
Except for multiple NEC violations.
if nothing else unsheath it as you fish it in.
Andrew, obviously you are a great DIYer, but an electrician you are not and don't appear to know NEC code. Instructing others how to install something governed by codes and not being trained, it's just not a good plan. For those wanting to meet the NEC requirements: the code requires a disconnect means for separate buildings. a gfic recept is not usually rated as a disconnect for a separate building (just a switch where you put the gfic recept would do. A heat gun making those 90's not so sharp would help. A bushing is required where the romex enters the conduit. UF cable in pvc is overkill, it just makes it needlessly difficult to install and strip it at a small pvc box. Your shed is gorgeous, looks great.
Technically this is a branch CCT not bigger than 20A, so not technically feeder, so shouldn't need a disconnect/ ground rod. no?
Good looking shed . 💰🤑🤠 I don't understand why there are so many 90° elbows . You only needed 2 90° elbows . Straighten the ditch out . 3/4 PVC is flexible . Wet locations use UF wire in conduit .
UF doesn't need conduit in this installation, it's rated for direct burial.
@@pld8993 no s*** Sherlock but stupid is as stupid does
@@georgewadejr5474 Sherlock didn't say wet locations use UF wire in conduit, you did. First, no, UF goes right in the dirt, installing it in conduit is an amateur move. Second, UF is cable, not wire. So does that make you stupid is or stupid does?
An amateur move would be assuming the UF cable with no conduit protection will never get damaged by someone installing a fence post or a tree. It's totally professional to do it the quick, cheaper way and not worry about someone with a steel breaker bar getting shocked, because as a pro, you'll be off on another job and won't have to deal with it. @@pld8993
Is the depth permitted by code in New York State?
UK electrician, we generally use an armoured cable for outdoor runs. Have a 600mm depth rule for none armoured. All our circuit's are gfci protected from panel. Conduit runs would require a number of access points.
If I were to put Romex in buried conduit, I would only use UF-B cable. Conduit often ends up full of water in a few years, or less.
Don't put Romex in buried conduit.
condensation from the air is enough to fill it eventually
How did you waterproof the conduit bends? THats what I dont know. Worried water will creep in on the 90 degree bend angle joins ( whatever they are called)
You don't. All underground conduits end up with water in them, no waterproofing required.
I don't know where your located, but you can't put a yellow romex under ground, it gets moisture and will rot. You need to use another type of wire coating, that runs into the conduit. unless your area says ok, florida you can't
So once you run UF underground to a shed you can connect it to a switch or a outlet & then you can then switch to 12/2 romex? have a project coming up just wondering ..
Yes
be prepared to leg it to the device to reset the GFCI once water condenses into that conduit from the air and causes false tripping. Better to bury the extra depth and not have to GFCI it.
I had the contractor on my addition put in a designated 20 amp breaker with an outlet outside so that I could run power later on. Its now later on and Im not sure what gauge was used to route to the first outlet. Given the work they did on the rest I suspect its the bare minimum, likely 12ga, maybe even 14 ga. Total length from box to shed is gonna be about 100ft of run. Im worried I might need to rewire the initial run to 6ga wire. Thoughts?
If it is only a 20 amp breaker. 12s are fine. If the run is over 100 ft I’d use 10s.
#6 would be if you needed 60A @ 240v . 100ft you'd probably be fine with 20A breaker but safer to use 15a breaker if you simple junction more #12 off (assuming that existing #12) . You can down the breaker size but not the wire size.
PVC pipe must be a minimal of 18 inches. UF cable can be 12 in if GFI protected from the main panel.
As long the circuit is residential, 120V and 15 or 20 amps, and GFCI protected, the conduit can be 12".
code states PVC is 18” to top of conduit or cover Per NEC 300.5
@@michaelsrossi3293 You're correct, it says that in Column 3, but Column 4 allows for 12" when installed according to the conditions listed.
@@pld8993 right I didn’t read or watch long enough to see it was GFI protected knee jerk reaction to first comment
@@michaelsrossi3293 That's one of the few things in this video that don't violate the NEC.
Great informative video - thanks for uploading. If I want to also run USB/ethernet cable, can it go in the same trench? If so, does it need to go in separate conduit to the power cable? Thx.
Definitely put low-voltage in a separate conduit.
Yes to separate conduit but also you’re not running USB that distance.
@@shelms488 I meant UTP or even STP.
IMO. I always over size my conduit runs and never let the conductors get tangled in the pull Then if other circuits or ? Are needed It's easy to use the ground wire to pull in more conductors
I stopped using direct burial years ago. Not worth the extra dig or occasional tree planting that nicks it an causes issues..Conduit all day.
Same here. Conduit with THWN.
I don’t think NEC allows for underground Romex. PVC conduit under NEC rules is 18” deep. You may need primer then glue for fittings - not sure.
Primer may not be required if the glue manufacturer does not state that it is required. The 'electrical' pvc glue sold in Home Depot is different than the 'plumbing' glue. The plumbing glue usually requires primer.
I have a question: 1. If I use conduit (pvc) do I use wire or can the romex go inside. 2. for the exposed part, can I use the electrical pvc conduit or do I use the metal? 3. The reason is I am asking is because I have to go from outside wall to burying. I do not want to have to buy different wire I guess
Easiest would be to strip the romex and fish the raw wires through after assembly.
All of the electrical (blue) "boxes" (circular and rectangular) on the exterior walls of the shed should be mounted flush with the exterior wall. So, neither the box for the double switches or any of the boxes for the exterior lights comply with electrical codes. And they're all fire hazards and potential shock hazards. Other than that (and running the wrong type of wire out of the house), good video.
How about extension cord to main house?
That certainly would have been easier lol Thanks for watching!
Not sure you can double up wires on the same outlet terminal I think the better/safer way is to make pigtails, but I'm not a sparky.
You are correct. Only one wire per terminal unless listed for more.
So I'm using 8awg THWN for 220/240v 100' away... Flexible PVC conduit... That needs to be 18" depth correct?
Depends on your local codes. Best practice would be to go 24", gravel 6" then warning tape and fill.
Could you just run the cable from the main to the storage?
Also, use 12 gauge for outlets and 14 gauge for light fixtures.
That’s not NEC. Could be local though.
12 gauge on 20 amp, 14 is good on 15
I’m trying to do the opposite. I got a solar shed with enough power to cover one my my house bedrooms. So I’m trying to route power from the shed through the wall of the bedroom to provide a solar powered source outlet
nope. you'd need to drive a rod, use a grid tie inverter and treat it as distributed sources. And get a 2 way meter installed.
@@thedavesofourlives1 I actually got my whole system working. No need for a grid tie inverter. I got two panels charging two 100A batteries going to a 2000W renogy inverter. That’s wired through conduit to the side of my house where the bedroom is and it’s all working great.
I bought a house in 2000, it had the water well in the front yard, about 50 feet from the street, and the pump and tank was also located there. The house sat about 300 feet further back from the street, and to power the water pump, the previous owner had romex suspended from the oak trees running all the way back to the house, entering the front living room through a hole in the floor, with the romex connecting to a lamp corp with wire nuts, then inserted into the electrical outlet in the wall of the living room! ...face palm/shakes head/ rolles eyes!! I installed UFC down about 3' (ditchwitch) and a proper 20A breaker in the electrical box. Took be a whole weekend to do...oaktree roots!
And that’s why you should always hire an inspector before you close.
@@allenemiesforeignanddomest3320 I really don't need to hire someone to tell me something I already know!
when i bought my house, the well had a harbor freight sump pump sitting in the well pit with a garden hose run down the hole to the water... and it was powered by an extension cord with the plug cut off and stuck into a breaker in the electric panel.
One thing, then you pulled the wire through the conduit before gluing it up, how would replace the wire if you ever have to? Is this code in your area?
It's a code violation to do it the way he did. Conduit must be complete before cables or conductors are installed.
if you can't pull it the first time, you built it wrong (more than 360 degrees of bends)
I have several landscaping lights on my new property that don't work. I just discovered that I have 15amp romex buried a whopping 2" below the ground. Directly into the ground. Someone didn't care about the rules.
How many 90s in that run? Supposed to be not more than 4 between pull points. Not bashing just making sure.
Hi. Can you help me out? I tiled bathroom and didnt dry epoxy water properly after grouting. There is no Physical stuff on the surface but seems like there is a haze in pores that wont come off no matter what i hit it with from standard shelves. Kerapoxy cleaner , Pci durapox finish, heat, acetone, alcohol, vinegar didnt work. i scrubbed it with stainless pad for pans or copper tubes but it did not come off. (the epoxy grout in joints did react but haze did not) Any tips for removing that haze where drop of epoxy water rolled down please ? thank you very much.
mineral spirits? Diesel?
Yeah I was about to say the same thing about the Romex being inside the conduit and also bro more than four 90s in your run is considered pulling into just a heads up I know you're not a electrician
The wire would pull through the pipe more easily if you unrolled it first. Doing so removes the twist.