9 Selvedge Denim Mistakes and How To Avoid Them
I have been into selvedge denim for about 12 years now. And in that time, you better believe I’ve made a bunch of mistakes! So, please. Learn from my mistakes. And to help you to do that here are 9 ways in which I fucked up so you don’t have to.
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Excellent video brother! Turning your jeans inside out was one that took me an embarrassingly long time to realize…
Haha same here. Me doing that didn't even start with raw/selvedge, it was because I hated getting those vertical streaks on my black jeans 😭
Does turning them inside out completely prevent it? Or do you still need to switch off the spin cycle? Thanks for the guidance =)
Carl, cheers buddy. It’s one of those weird bits of knowledge that seemed to incept it’s way in. I’ve no idea how I know it, might have even been my mum who told me. I remember all laundry in the house being turned inside out before the wash. Only made the mistake once when I didn’t see my jeans in a pile of dirty laundry. That moment I pulled them out and saw what had happened still haunts me.
@@j_gate so far for me it’s totally prevented it.
@@CeeAreDee that is fantastic, thanks for clarifying that =)
I’m 4 months into my first pair. 22oz brave star. I went heavy against your advice because I’m on an island in Alaska and I can wear them in the cold. The fades are coming in. They’re finally comfy. And everything I’ve learned about denim is due to you and that book you recommended a long time ago “Denim Branded”. I love the history and quirky facts and trial and error that follows behind denim and I’m probably way too invested for my good health. You make fantastic videos man. You also kind of inspired me to be a photographer but in a recreational vintage way.
Are they the Sumo? If so I have the same pair and I love them. I'm in Northern Pennsylvania so not nearly as cold and it's been far too hot to wear them lately, but I'll be wearing them again all winter. They aren't quite "comfy" yet for me but they've definitely gotten more flexible even just with the limited wear.
@@Carnefice yeah they’re the sumo. It’s not as cold where I am as you might think but it rarely gets in the 80’s. So they’re nice outside in the 50’s and 60’s
@@gunneryelton347 I work from home, so sometimes I wear them all day even in the summer because I'm inside in the air conditioning.
my 22 ounce are like armour working with sharp steel. best work pants ever.
22oz sounds perfect for Alaska :) Guessing the weight advice is for a more temperate climate.
This is a most refreshing slice of sanity in a world of “overkill”. The number of so-called experts/influencers out there on social media who peddle their “expertise” in high-end anythings from leather boots and jackets, to selvedge denim, to knives, motorcycles, cameras, guns and whiskey. It’s all BS. I love all of the above and have fallen victim to my own ignorance, misinformation, vanity and greed. I’m a recovering “collector” of things. These days, I try to make much better decisions based on “balance”. I still love what I love, but I’ve scaled down many of the “things” I own. It’s a much happier journey when my priorities are peace. Love the video/s. Appreciate the honesty and perspective.
love your videos, very educational , thanks for sharing the knowledge
As someone who just ordered my first pair of jeans I really love the lack of pretentiousness in your videos. You give your suggestions and then empower the user to do their thing. To many hobby groups are dogmatic. I’m looking forward to my NF far indigo stretch to arrive. At present I plan to do a was day 1 and then begin wearing them. I want to ensure they have done whatever level of shrink. Then I can go get them hemmed.
Clear and concise, with denim wisdom throughout. Great vid!
Cheers Wilson. Appreciate it buddy.
Great video. Specially the advice about repairing. A stitch in time saves nine...
I was geeky enough to avoid the most of them, and big bravo for me to see the last one coming lol If I could add anything to that list, I’d say “starting with a double dye”. I am the kind of person who wants everything on hand to be a bit special from normal, so I picked a double indigo Benzak for my first raw. I love that pair but man it faded kinda slowly and made me doubt. Which in the end leads you to the “buying too many” route.
Went straight to 25oz iron hearts.. Love them...
Excellent video, I learned a lot, thanks appreciated :)
Great informative video 👏🏻
Thanks for the video. I am new to the selvedge world but I have come in from a different direction. During all the covid lockdowns etc I decided to learn new things one of which was how to sew. I started with masks and then made a few dresses for the wife before falling into denim and making my own selvedge jeans. I have been inspired by people like Paul Kruze and used a few off the shelf patterns. But your videos have been a great help for learning so much about the world of selvedge denim and I just want to thank you for all you do to help us newbie’s in this daunting subject.
Aw mate. That’s amazing! Was it difficult to sew a pair? Yeah. Paul does some amazing work and on top of that he’s just such a nice and humble guy. I’d be curious to know what machines you need for sewing a pair of jeans together.
@@CeeAreDee The hardest part is finding a pattern I like the fit of but I am working on one now based off a pair of wranglers I like. I have just been using a regular domestic sewing machine. It sometimes struggles a little getting through multiple layers of denim but I found just going a bit slower helps. My next project is working out how to do repairs as I am starting to wear holes in my earlier pairs.
Excellent advice. Thanks! I have 12 to 16.5. Found 14 oz best for me.
Thanks for all the good advice…Cheers from a new subscriber in Nova Scotia…Cheers MikeR.
I have been wearing LEVI'S 501 shrink-to-fit jeans for over 35 years and have never been disappointed. The only thing I have changed is, increasing the size. 😄
Excellent useful and most helpful info about the topic I've seen. 👍
Thanks mate. Appreciate the kind words.
I was just looking at the barts 25oz for my first trip into the army and I can only find the shrink to fit In my fitted size so you're describing what I needed the support for!
The most comfortable jeans I've ever owned are 21oz overdyed jeans from Iron Heart. Just had to throw that out there
Thanks bro. Much love. Great video.
You’re welcome buddy
Super helpful. First time selvedge buyer here. Very excited to start wearing them in!
My first pair of selvedge jeans were 22oz and they're by far my softest, most comfortable pair of jeans that I own.
Interesting i worked for levis for many years Thank you
Great video. I have two pairs of 21oz IH and they are really comfortable, truly. But I am careful to size them generously, so my thighs and waistband have lots of room for movement. Suspenders make them even more comfortable, if you don’t mind looking different. One of them has a long hem for riding motorcycles, and I can cuff them when I arrive, and the other pair I hemmed to my actual inseam, so I can wear them with wingtips, loafers, or what have you without cuffing, and sometimes you just don’t want to cuff your jeans. Then I have a third pair of 16 oz Freenote cloth Avila cut indigo for general shenanigans and warm weather.
Thanks for your vids. Loving my Uniqlo jeans. You would really like the Filson short lined cruiser jacket. It's a super tough waxed heavy denim style jacket. I got my brother one and then I got one and love it.
Personally I prefer the 14-21 ounce range denim. I dislike thin jeans that feel like leggings or sweat pants and have stretch in them. I can deadlift and squat without any issues in even my heaviest pair of jeans, but I also buy the correct size and really break them in by putting them to work. I also grew up wearing heavy $15 Rustler jeans from Kmart so maybe that's why I'm just used to heavier weights.
Je découvre votre chaîne, c'est passionnant ! Merci pour ces précieux conseils.
You’re very very welcome.
#10 Buying 'em! Don't get started!!
I love your 9nth point about not gatekeeping. It’s important to use selvedge to your own identity. I try not to go for a sons of anarchy or gold miner look. Rather, I try to mix urban and old school details together in a modern but not overly skinny look that shoots for trends. Sometimes I’ll wear boots or some Nikes.
Honest question... What are Byron Barts?
Having too many pairs is a tough one, they are all just so cool. I have justified it the same way as you, its just a "collection". You are so right though that at a certain point, one might have more pairs that could be worn in a lifetime, or they end up being rotated so much and take forever to fade. Any advice on practicing restraint? Also, any insights on where to put up raw denim on the second hand market to try to get a little money back?
I've got 21" denim and it's great for warmth (my reason for buying it) if taking a while to soften. Pleased I bought them
I will definitely have your voice in my head next time I go to wash my jeans.
Hey just picked up my first pair of Selvedge from uniqlo, and the legs are a bit larger then I like, should I wash them a few times before getting them tailored or would I be safe to do it now?
Love my 16 oz slubs. Might end up getting a pair of 22oz slubs for winter next year too. Still need to get a selvedge jacket too. Coming from the world of business dress and high quality dress shoes, I'm no stranger to a collection lol. Finally got into boots so the jeans are more used than they used to be.
What jacket are you wearing in this video? It looks great. And great tips, too.
I’ve been “into” raw selvedge denim jeans since 1959, 64 years. First pair worn were Roebuck brand (made in North Carolina) from the Sears Department Store in Roswell, New Mexico. Wash your jeans before you wear them, hang dry. Repeat.
Thanks Cee Are Dee i was into a business with a 19 0z Brave Star...good
You are right in not showing a gatekeeping attitude - because what definitely doesn’t fit is denim & gatekeeping
I don't agree on the heavy weights. Might be a good rule for new folks, but my Unbranded 22ox Big Slub are probably my favorite pair I've ever worn.
What's the last shirt on the left? Looks beautiful
I just bought a pair of 17 oz Samurai jeans. When I wash them, do you button them up first?
A lot of very excellent points. I have only one thing to add and if you hadn’t tried this, then I would highly recommend try it at least once. Instead of washing your new first time dirty pair of jeans have them dry cleaned. It doesn’t fade the dye, it doesn’t shrink them, and they come back like brand, new and sparkling clean. Water will fade out indigo and shrink cotton. Trichloroethylene or whatever solvent is used today in dry cleaning does not. Spend seven dollars and it will change your gene wearing experience for ever. Once the jeans have been washed in water, there’s no going back, but consider this as in my opinion, the ultimate denim hack. I’m really surprised nobody talks about this. Dry cleaning jeans instead of washing them is magical
What type 2 are you wearing please? It looks really nice :)
Hello! I am someone who has been skeptical of the quality difference between store bought jeans and selvedge/selvege/selvage jeans and has commented my opinion on your channel.🥴 sir was I wrong once I tried on a pair that worked/fit me correctly. I am not quite at the right amount of wears before first wash but I return to you humbled and respectful of denim heads. Quality is unbeatable. Two questions though, is 5 pairs of denim too many? Second, what extreme of wash should be used hot, warm, or cold?
So, what kind of maintenance can be done on denim to pre-empt repair? It's mentioned in this video, but never elaborated
It really took me a while to figure out fit, I always went true to size in the waist, and I started going a size up and it's made all the difference. I think 90% of crotch blow outs can be solved if you just find the right cut and get it in the correct size. I wear the 501 traditionally and I haven't blown the crotch out on any pairs I own.
I’m coming round to that thought as well. I’ve got a pair of TCB 50s slim and they are a few years old. No sign at all of a blowout.
Same here, I went through so many blowout repairs before finally figuring it out. Makes such a difference! :)
Could you review Native selvedge denims based in Dublin ?
unsanforized does lead to a leg twist that can add a bit of style to the denim but i like both sanforized and unsaforized. when i buy sanforized it must be easy to botton up but requiring a little effort but not much and with unsaforized it must be easy to button the top without it being loose. i remember buying wharehouse lot 900 unsaforized and in it's raw form it fit so perfect waist thigh and everything the top hole was easy to button but very perfecta little snug without being tight. i then soaked it at home and it was a disaster thighs lost 1/4 inch to go from slim too skin tight. and the waist lost 1.5 inches making them too tight. even with the waist stretching it only stretched back 1 inch and the thighs did not stretch at all. My lvc unsanforized only shrank 1 inch after first wash. so with unsanforized u can lost 1-1.5 in ch in the waist. u lose about 2 inches in the leg and your not getting this back. hope someone buying their first unsanforized finds this usefull.
Really great stuff, but I maybe have to disagree with the advice of not buying heavyweight denim. Based on purely personal experience, I find that while super heavy denim is not very comfortable at first, the reward comes some time down the line when it becomes SUPER comfortable. the most sheet metal cardboard feeling 25 oz jeans eventually turn into not only the most hard wearing and rugged article of clothing you own, but also the most comfortable. This is of course all personal experience and very possibly deeply biased due to some sort of weird buyers remorse ahahaha
My first unsanforised denim was awful experience,.it was not shrunk after insoak, the inseam came shorter 3 inches and not shrunk as should be (waist, thigh, front and back rise werent affected).
ok so I bought some 15oz that are my size not 1 down and they're pretty tight on the thighs still. I can button them easily enough and I can sit in them but it's tight and I can't pinch much around the thighs... Are these too small or do I need a different style?
Good advice! When it comes to the weight of denim it's not always bad to go over 15oz. During winter I wear 21oz jeans and they are both warm and comfortable. But I made sure that they fit really well. Tight 21oz jeans would be a torture...
I always opt for long Johns in winter. Maybe I should try the 21 oz but I’ve just got a bit of a mental block there. 😂🧱
The heaviest ones I have are a 17 oz denim.
I have a 13 - 25 oz denim collection and I find the most comfortable for everyday wear between 15 - 17 oz. And I highly recommend show your hem if you are looking for quality hand craft leather goods for an affordable price. I have MTO shell cordovan card wallet from SYH and it has become one of my favorite leather goods so far. Mr. Wau, the man behind SYH are very friendly and easy to talk👍🏼👍🏼
Appreciate it kang, thank for kind words 🙌🙌🙌
17ish ounces. the samurai range
Maybe a dumb question but I work in the fast food business and decided to spend half my check on a pair of pants, but if I were to get say mustard or something on my pants, which would be more than once every 2 weeks, should I wash them? Or perhaps spot clean them, if that doesn’t fade it weird
I don’t know , I got a pair of unsanforized 16oz Edwin jeans 14 years ago and I found quite fun the soaking process ( the breaking in process a little less ) and got a very good fit and then fade result . So I when I got back into the denim game this year , I got one 15.7 unsanforized SDA ( 1st soak pending , I have to find a bathtub first ) , one 13.5 warehouse one wash and one 15.7 Momotaro one wash . I feel ( so far ) I made the right choice and I would deprived myself of some really good pair of jeans if I stuck to your 14oz/sanforized advice :)
I boght a lot of like 12 oz jeans before going to a 25 oz and it was the best play ever.
I think the size down only works if you're going from medium rise to high rise jeans. If you're hips are slightly wider than your waist, you'll want to account for that. But that's just sizing it to wear it fits, not discarding your measurements.
ID in your shirt jacket ? Like that color
currently have 5 pairs. Went overboard. Compensating for when I only had enough for one pair of quality selvedge and would wear it for years
Well excuse me!😂 I actually enjoy looking like a dust bowl refugee thank you very much! I get mental dissonance if I try to walk the line between multiple styles. I really have to one thing and early repro is what I love! I think the line is drawn at the point you feel uncomfortable. If you look like your wearing a costume and that bothers you than it might be time to switch it up but if you like it then more power to you! Great video!
Word! As I said at the end. Definitely don’t listen to me. 😉
Been there, done that (bloody expensive blunders). I've lost a good bit of weight which is another nightmare. Should've watched a vid' like this when starting out, although I don't know if there were any.
It takes you back a little having to rebuy pieces that no longer fit you, but congrats on the weight loss my friend. Your health is more important than your closet. You will slowly replace everything with pieces that fit properly :)
Congratulations bro, if you really don't think you're ever going back to the previous size you could look at tailoring them slimmer. You can always tailor clothes smaller , but not bigger
This may be a stupid question as I’m a newbie but how do I know if my denim is sanforized or unsanforized
Love you channel
Thanks buddy. I appreciate that.
first time selvedge denim purchaser here. I purchased Naked & Famous Weird Guy Left Hand Twill jeans which are 13.75oz and Unbranded Ub201s which are 14.5oz. Do you think I'll have problem with those? Or are those goods weights for someone who has never worn selvedge denim?
I bought my first pair of selvedge jeans as unsanforized two sizes larger. Went through the hot water routine and they shrunk a little. Kept on with hot water and nothing. I took then to tailor and had them taken in. Still too big. I am getting TH 634 B-S today and going to rip up these jeans.
When buying sanforized I recommend buying a size 1 inch larger in the waist than your ideal fit, if you plan to machine wash your jeans. Because sanforized jeans still shrink in the wash, about 1 inch of shrinkage in the waist and maybe 2 inches in the hem in my experience, the bulk of which happens during the 2nd washing for some reason. I found this out the hard way...when I first got into raw selvedge I had bought a bunch of pairs in my exact size all at once, then when I started washing them I was like oh shit! They all became too tight. Had to sell them to a thrift shop at a big loss and start over!
Thanks for the information! Although I have learn most of these from seeing a lot o your videos getting a focused video on it is very helpful as a College student who wants to start getting into this world after a year and getting my own first pair (brave star 🌟)
Nice. How you find the brave stars?
I have 45 shirts in my shoulder season rotation (which includes everything from summer polos to winter flannels). 10 are Biron Barts. I have 4 pairs of jeans. 2 are Biron Barts. 😬
45! That’s a load of closet space!
Great list - the only point I’d disagree with is the no heavy-weight. I would amend that to BE CAREFUL about heavier weights, and definitely don’t go for them for your first pair of selvedge denim. But if you feel like going heavy, try for a brand like Iron Heart that specializes in it. (full disclosure, I’m not an IH fanboy - I have one pair of 20 oz jeans from them, and my other jeans are by Sugar Cane, Brave Star and Gustin, all in the 12-15 oz range. I’m thinking about Momotaro for my next pair).
Momo is a good choice for sure. Great denim, great jeans. And perhaps you’re right, folks should be careful. Just don’t want people to become discouraged or disappointed and out of a load of cash.
@@CeeAreDee 100%. I think I feel about heavy denim the way you do about unsanforized. The more conventional mid-weight sanforized and/or 1-wash are the best place for newbies to begin, and will be most denim-heads’ bread and butter. Btw, I’m so glad you’re on KZhead making these videos. I always watch your videos post-haste when I see them.
Try Pure Blue Japan and Tanuki. I have both in slim straight fit ❤️
Is that an Ornamental Conifer?
What about starching and ironing???
Finding the right fit is easier said than done. Don’t be afraid to get measurements and ask questions. A good retailer will be accommodating.
Got the perfect solution You Look Terrible in Jeans. Let's Fix That! kzhead.info/sun/p5msnrBth5GdmWg/bejne.html
Idk about the weight advice, preference and variety. Also, some fabrics that are a loose weave and unsanforized are fine to buy in a different size depending on cut ie. Oni, PBJ. Imo of course
What kind of watch is that? I really enjoy your videos.
That’s a Tudor date day. Vintage from the 80s as far as I can tell. And thanks for the kind words.
OP, ever heard of “Imran Potato”? He has just posted jeans on his site (which sell out rather quick). I bought a pair of his Jorts in size 34, my normal waist size, and noticed I could barely button them. I hear of the stretching potential, yet, his newest pair on the site is a “rigid baggy” style. I’m thinking (to be safe) size up to 36 and rock with a belt as needed. Also, not even sure if these are raw denim, but they certainly feel as such. Let me know!
I'm on a weight loss journey and I'm 2 to 2 sizes away from some of the vigger sized selvedge jeans. So Levi's 501 are what I'm wearing.
Nice mate. Congratulations. Keep on keeping on and the selvedge will be waiting.
What do you mean by maintenance?
My favourite iron heart myth is the heavier jeans being more breathable than the lighter weight denim.
i got a 14.5 oz and it gets hot. dont see how people go any heavier. umm in terms of fades, i could care less and I do buy lighter denim thats been prefaded. the real mccoys are too expensive :(
Hi, is there a video or can u make a video on how to maintain ur jeans when the crouch area is thinning?
Here we go When should you repair your jeans? kzhead.info/sun/jJdyeJlrgJhrZac/bejne.html
Where can I get a 22oz. Jean made
Good info bro…..lost weight and my ironheart 21oz are about 2 sizes to big…… should I throw them in the dryer?
Legitimate question. I have wondered the same thing. Just worried about uneven shrinkage. Would love the hear our host chime in.
dry s ok
Have a question about washing your jeans during the pandemic, do you wash it more frequently now ? For example soak/ wash the jeans after wearing it for few times
You mean in terms of hygiene? These days I wash pretty regularly anyway, once a month or more. But I started to wear a bigger variety of pants so I think it balances out to once a week of wear.
I bought some 14oz blue selvedge jeans not too long ago, was told it's best not to wash them, however the colour keeps coming out on my hands, on certain fabrics I might be sitting on - is this normal for new jeans? (first pair in many years) and is there any way of 'fixing' the colour? I've tried a few things - salt and die fixative, but colour still coming out.
Simplest way is to turn them inside out and wash them a couple of times. Hat will get rid of the excess indigo.
Made all of those mistakes, had over 30 pairs of jeans at one point, including some Iron Heart 😂never got a chance to wear any of them for any length of time as I got arrested with a large bag of powder and sent to jail for 8 years which needless to say broke my denim habit, been out 2 years now and only have 3 pairs of jeans, 14oz Rogue Territory SK Neppy, 23oz Naked and famous king of slub 2 and an 11oz stretch Edwin Made in Japan, Heavy ones exclusively worn in the winter, Light ones in the hight of summer and the RGT,s in between weather permitting. I will not be buying anymore for at least the next 10 years. Now I just have to make sure I can stay out of jail long enough to enjoy then.👍
Thank you for the video. But what about washing your jeans in a bath tub? Does the inside out rule still apply? I've never washed mine inside out in the tub and I don't think it has affected them as you said. The closest thing that I have to those vertical type lines are just on the quad area of the jean.
Nah from what I understand washing inside out only matters for the washing machine because of the spin cycle. If you’re handwashing in the tub either way’s fine
@@ypsitoThank you!
I just bought my first selvedge denim jacket which happens to be the one you're wearing in this video any tips?
Hmmm. I usually wash mine inside out at 40. Makes them much more comfortable and doesn’t do much to affect the fades. But I wear denim jackets more like over shirts and so wash on the regular.
nowaday for a brand to offer an unsanfor denim they usually already adjust the size chart to compensate for the fabric shrink. Its much more predictable. Also what kind of hanger thingy behind you? is that a DIY? thank you
It’s just an old clothing rail I picked up at a flee market. It’s beat to hell and only held together with rust but it looks good. 😂
@@CeeAreDee oh its from metal too? Thats great. And yeah totally agreed it looks amazing
Is stretchable selvedge denim a faux pas? Does it age as well as pure cotton raw denim?
No. Not at all and I’m some cases I’d recommend selvedge with a little bit of stretch over pure cotton. It just lasts longer for the tighter fits. And it’ll fade really nicely if you do a good quality pair. Naked and famous make some great stretch denim.
My only issue is buying to much Alot of cool jeans with unique things, going on I currently have 6 pairs of raw jeans but I do wear them to work and for work I'm required to wear jeans so they will get worn alot
Those Byron Bart guys wearing a full uniform of denim hilarious 🤣
I guess if they’re happy. They are in good gear. More power to them. I guess. 😂
@@CeeAreDee can’t argue with the quality position but maybe 2 brands. That being said watching your channel I wanted to replace all my stuff with TCB they are such a great brand for the money!!
I want to recommend Akka Denim. UK based.
Where to get your jeans repaired properly is what I would like to know. Every place in Munich I know will just patch the holes up. Not the proper way to fix them imo. Any suggestions where to get selvedge denim repaired would be much appreciated.
That’s a really tough one now that Dutch denim repair has closed down. Honestly, I don’t know. I’m still searching for a place that will actually darn jeans.
What medium wash jeans would you reccomend
3sixteen. Without doubt
I noticed your jewelry is gone… I got to you! ❤️😄
😂 fatherhood got to me. Babies and big heavy rings don’t mix.
@@CeeAreDee congrats. You will do great I honestly think.
Appreciate it Jacob. It’s a great ride so far. Not a lot of sleep and have to give up the accessories. But it’s a small price to pay.
@@CeeAreDee enjoy it… soon he/she will be shuttlng his/her door in your face being a teen. And you will be looking at pictures of the time you are at NOW. Live it. 😘
Been skteboarding with my 21oz denim and still struggling to break in the fabric, btw I am new in this selvedge world
once i get past 18oz denim it is not really wearable for me. my preferred weight is 12-16oz
if you do size down, only go one size down. I'm currently wearing a sized down 2. It has stretched but I'm still feeling it in the crotch area
Upper thigh must fit comfortably, waist will always stretch 1inch, shouldn’t need a belt, inseam with no break. Check out resolute 710 style. That’s what I think looks best
Must just be the way I’m built. I always need a belt. But the rest I agree with.
I have to disagree with your point about heavy weight denim. Of course 25 oz is not going to necessarily be the best, but I've worn in multiple pairs of 21 oz jeans and can confidently say that it is VERY comfortable when they're broken in. You get an added level of durability and comfortable weight to them, and they still manage to stay soft and retain some level of drape
Honestly I think 18oz is the perfect weight but that’s only because I do construction and need a pair of jeans on par with Carhartt in terms of durability