If you are replacing your clutch, pressure plate, or flywheel, here are 5 tips to do it right. if your clutch is worn, burnt, or slipping, replacement may be needed. Or you might be considering a performance clutch. Whatever the reason for you to replace your clutch, you want to be sure you replace it correctly.
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Good video. Straightforward, to the point, no unnecessary chatter about the wife, kids, dog, or anything else. Good job. Ty
It's a tough decision.
Great tips thanks. I have changed the clutch on my Golf TDI AHF and my Leon TDI ASZ and although I followed similar practices, advice like this could save someone from having to redo their hard work prematurely.
To HumbleMechanic: I've watched almost every video of yours, since I have an MK3 Golf Variant with an AEX engine with 020 transmission, and I'm a mechanic too, with a small shop in a village in Hungary. Your vids are great, and I think you deserve your name. Volkswagen is a german car brand, however the supply of parts are not that good here in Europe. I saw there are many places in the US where you can order or buy every single part for a VW, it doesn't really matter which type or year the car is. For example: it's obvious that there are many bolts in the car that must be replaced every time you take the engine or the transmission apart, because these bolts yield if you do your job as it needs to be done. The issue is there are some types of bolts that are very hard (sometimes impossible) to obtain, like the bolts that hold the crankshaft and the clutch pressure plate together, or the ones that hold the clutch pressure plate and the flywheel together (it's a reverse clutch). These bolts are not ordinary ones, you can't just buy them in a hardware store. The M7x50mm bolts are like white ravens, and if you order a clutch set that should contain these bolts in the package, you have to deal with the annoying fact: you won't get these bolts, it doesn't matter which brand your ordered clutch set is, the package won't have these included. It's very annoying and sometimes it makes the work even harder, because you need to talk with a machinist who can make the bolts, and you can forget the specifications the factory ordered, if the threads wore out on the originals, or the bolts are yielded already. Plus it costs more than it should. I saw many websites in the US that can sell such parts, but here we can't order from there, the soup could cost more than the meat in it. The worst thing of it is I could order some parts of a german car from the US, but not from a local supplier. The shipping could cost more than the parts themselves.
Do the rear main seal, look for any unusual play in the gearbox shaft, look for any leakage from the gearbox, when disassembling the clutch check the flywheel for any uneven surfaces to see if it needs to be resurfaced or even swapped with a new one.
Thank you for the great info! This video reinforced much of what ive been taught and even answered a couple questions i have never thought to ask...
Probably goes without saying but ALWAYS replace the pilot bearing when replacing a clutch, and its never a bad idea to replace the rear main seal since you are in that far.
I gotta replace the flywheel, clutch kit, concentric slave cylinder and the rear main seal on a PD160 Cupra Ibiza.... this is now the 6th time on the same car, car keeps CHEWING them due to it having so much torque for the clutch, lol
@@jayharris5460 stage1 clutch and flywheel???
Jay Harris just buy a stronger clutch??
@@FSXflyermaster tried, found out car was pissing oil from the crankshaft oil seal, which got replaced, then ended up the crank was wrecked so clutch was just getting wrecked, I ain't changing the crank so going in for replacement crank tomorrow so....
With over50 years experience in the motor trade i never once changed a clutch without replacing the pilot bearing, its just false economy to ignore this. Well pointed out Isometric. *****
Thanks for the video. I'm at the transmission removal stage. It was nice to see your calm and positive feedback. I got this!
This is one of the best videos I have ever seen for clutch replacement/installation. Very detailed and concise. Thanks for the tips Charles. Keep up the great awesome work!
Don't forget the paint marker... I always mark the bolts/nuts with a paint marker (different colors) as I go through the tightening stage (green), then onto the torque stage (yellow). Just my personal preference and makes it easy to remember visually which ones were tightened and torqued.
In stages. Snug, almost full torque, full torque. I do the cross pattern, then go all around the circumference to double check. At each torque stage. Takes an extra minute or two. Peaceful sleep.
I would like to say what if my club is still good. Still powered, but the only problem is breathing. It's shooting truth into the chance not to the clock
Great tips! Thanks for sharing. That's a lot of bolts in the flywheel.
Is good idea to do rear main seal, mine was in a Frame that had 2 bolts holes on bottom for oil pan that were stripped. So I got New Housing too. Also did crank (gear) seal/ housing, crank gear, which was bad, all the seals on transmission, fuel injector o- rings, new oil pan gasket/baffle, water oulet housing, new CV joints, rebuilt front and back brake calipers and updated All shift rod bushings. 97 Jetta 2.0. Took 3 weekends, but car is running great now.
Thanks bro, doing my clutch today... Prayers appreciated...lol..Hello from Ventura California...
I feel like a little extra tip should be to grease the pivot on the clutch fork. Many times have I seen/ heard a squeaky clutch simply due to the fact that there is no lube where the pivot is.
yup, that and the fork on the arms where the tob sits. instead of greasing the splines on the clutch, add some grease to the input shaft instead.
Pivot on the clutch fork as well as the little areas where the throw out bearing sits.
Any grease you suggest ?
flavrdPnut VW calls for a molybdenum grease which is usually included in the OE clutch kits.
I can't wait to be able to test this clutch out!
just make sure to break it in first, :D
Five. HUNDRED. Agonizing. Miles. None of which would matter in the least if you were rockin' your Hyundai Cilantro or Dodge Stratosphere. Great video, thanks man. Is the LSD install vid next.. ; ] ?
Maybe if the monkeys did break out the torque wrench for the airbox cover screws they wouldn't strip the shit out of the plastic base so you have replace the whole thing. Ask me how I know.
headcas620 lmao some people are just bad at life
HumbleMechanic what about the spigot bearing? Shouldn’t you replace that too?
I bought all new bolts and redid the seals on the ,020 trans, new self adjust clutch cable and release bearing. Royal Purple trans fluid. Didn't expect clutch and flywheel not to mate, as are new!
Another great video my friend, I needed this so thank you! Still got the W8, but uncle have my son a 2002 Passat 1.8t in manual. The family tradition with Volkswagens continues.
One of the best automotive rapier videos I watched on KZhead. Totally resonating with a way I do my repairs.
Thank you
My shit
For a clutch align tool I wrap electrical tape around a bar to get the exact dia. Also I have never used any lube on the splines. I think the plate just stays against the flywheel and gently rubs and don't slide along the splines anyway. Also I have just made a new extra simple type gearbox lifter that don't need a jack. 1 for front wheel drive and 1 for rear wheel drive. I just put them on youtube if you are interested.
Very very informative video....thank you....looking forward to my delorean clutch job
So many thanks HM for sharing such a wealth of knowledge / priceless experience. God Bless!!. 🤗🙏🙏🙏
It's a good idea to think about replacing rear oil seal to your engine while your in there it's behind flywheel, you would hate to have an oil leak and have to pull it back out. Changing pilot bearing should be done as well.if your vehicle has a internal clutch cylinder it should be changed as well. One last thing when using a clutch alignment tool make sure tool is all the way in and that the weight of the clutch disc does not bind the alignment tool as you tighten the pressure plate. When pressure plate is properly tightened and clutch disc is properly aligned with tool the alignment tool should pull out easily. Which will help in the reinstallation of the transmission. Hope this helps Good luck
Any idea what could cause clutch judder on cold starts only?
@@UncleBaz dual mass flywheel
Because I was short on time I paid a local mobile mechanic to do my clutch. I now find it tricky finding the bite without getting a judder in 1st and reverse. Could this be the clutch alignment being out? I've driven it about 200 miles like this thinking it needed bedding in. What do you reckon? I'm going to fix it myself as I'm done with trusting anyone else.
Awesome job, very professional, keep up the good work !
Thank you Humble guy. Really Humble. I´ll tell my mechanic about flywheel bolts
Do the rear main seal while you're in there
Rear main seal and pilot bearing, probably have the flywheel turned
Pilot bearing for sure, but I wouldnt bother with the rear main seal unless it is leaking.
Ye mate lets rebuild the fuckin engine too
@@blakegoss8720 why not replace main seal with the clutch if u replace it u know 100% it going to last in till the time the clutch is replaced or what if u replace clutch then it starts leaking u have to pull it all back out do it all a again
@@ethanstewart3386 it all depends really. I can haul out a transmission in 2 hours on my back in my garage. So if it starts leaking, then its still a task even for me, but nothing a Saturday cannot crush. But there are more things that can go wrong with attempting to install a rear main seal, not to mention the added time. Most people dont know the difference between teflon seals and spring seals and how to install either. they slam them on, they leak, and complain. As long as your PCV system is working and not blowing out seals, it'll most likely be good for the duration that you own the car for.
Awesome video, I learned a lotta tips! I’m ordering parts for a 2000 Ford ranger with 197,000 miles. What besides the clutch kit should I be ordering? Kit includes the throw out bearing, alignment tool, pressure plate
The one most people forget is the release bearing.
All golden nuggets of advice! Upgrading the notoriously weak stamped out clutch fork is the only thing I think you could mention.
I plan to do that next. I am looking around for a transmission to "build". When that is ready I will swap the fork out too
This is without doubt my favourite job, love doing clutches its a fine art to get new clutch in and running smoothly no juddering, breaking it in etc and then seeing how many miles you can get of it, I've just replaced the one in my diesel van, dual mass flywheel had the van from new and got just over 230.000 miles out of it before ot started making a noise and slipping, not bad for a delivery van.
He isn't messing around when he says torque those bolts! Did a clutch replacement on a 01 Mustang GT and only didn't torque the pressure plate bolts (every other bolt was torqued). So as it was on the ground, clutch wouldn't engage and the thing could only roll. Went back and torqued it and bam! She grabbed gears like new. Please torque your bolts.
Wonderful tips, I can’t do it myself but I was finding ways how it works and watching this video it is really cool if you want to do it. Right now I am working with manyautosltd.com they can help with all kind of new clutch, clutch diagnostic, clutch repair reading, clutch replacement, clutch pedal, clutch master cylinder Etc.
The last time I replaced the clutch in my '87 Mustang GT, I saved a few bucks by having the flywheel resurfaced instead of using a new part. There's a reason the clutch warranty requires that BOTH the pressure plate AND flywheel are new. I believe that hard spots from localized heating remained in the flywheel, causing significant clutch chatter that I live with every day. What a hassle...
on another note.... i'm glad this was a VR6 being demonstrated... the clutch in my GLX started to go south and i'm on the path to replacing it.
Awesome video Charles, Thanks for sharing!
Great job Charles. I used Denatured Alcohol to clean my fly wheel. Came out super clean!
NICE! I usually have used acetone, but hat is because I always had it on hand. HAHA
Thanks I was wondering on what to use.
Ahh its great watching this video AFTER doing my clutch and seeing everything i did wrong. Reused the flywheel bolts, rattlegunned the flywheel bolts, didnt replace throwout bearing, didnt break in the clutch... Lol
SWEEEEET! Anything to report 2yrs on?
@@davidmorgan2146 nope never had any problems at nearly 400hp
🤦🏻♂️
😱
Thats ok. Id will be reusing my bolts. Original japan bolts. Are still better then new china bolts
Don't forget the crankshaft pilot bearing/bushing. We usually recommend replacing the pilot bearing/bushing. If it is a bronze or sintered metal bushing we soak in high quality engine oil for about an hour before installing or follow the manufacturer's recommendations.
Could you explain why the pilot bushing needs to be soaked in good oil for a hour?
Hi @HumbleMechanic , i have 2008 Fabia MK2 1.6 petrol and thinking it's about time to replace the clutch. i'm not sure if i have a dual mass flywheel but if i do, do you recommend to replace it when doing a clutch or it's a "life of the car" part?
Thanks for your videos Charles which are well done and very helpful! I have an Mk5 Golf GTI with 195'000 miles. The clutch was replaced at around 160k. Now the clutch pedal is sticking to the floor sometimes, engagement point is varying. According to the previous owner, this began just after the clutch replacement, he got the clutch bleed 3x with no luck. I replaced the master cylinder and gaskets and bleed around 10x, after a bleed the clutch works well but for the first miles but then tends to act as if air was present in the system (no air is seen when pressure bleeding, also it does not seem to degrade further with time). I am beginning to think that the slave cylinder, they put in when replacing the clutch, was defective from the factory and maybe not sealing well. I wonder if you had a similar case? I saw on the video that you had a leaking slave in the gearbox. What were the symptoms? Thanks a lot if you find the time to answer me :)
Slave cylinder seizing
@@richardrichard5409 thanks, the cause was unrelated to the hydraulics but was due to lateral play in the input shaft of the gearbox. Adding an additional washer solved the problem.
Tip: don't let other people drive your car until clutch is broken in ☝🏿
+Alvin Ameyaw lol. That’s a good tip
Don't let people drive your car period.
@@thelagmeister unless they willing to pay $200 a day
@@juice323blue4 $200 a day? I'd charge that per hour they use it, just because if they wreck clutch, that's new kit, then labour on that, then the hastle of having to change it and the time the car is down and loss of earnings not having it on road. Simple.
Can you tell when clutch had been broken in?
@HumbleMechanic, thanks for your video first off, I've come back to your channel on multiple occasions. Hoping you could comment on the following. I have not completed a clutch replacement to date, it's always been one of those items I've gotten done professionally as I felt it may require a level of precision I could not provide at the time. Following an engine swap, I'm feeling more confident to attempt this on my own given it's time for a replacement. To better prepare myself I've gone searching for info on replacement, and I have come across some stating it's as simple as swapping out and in the new parts, other stating I should adjust my clutch pedal or it's engagement after a replacement so that it does not wear prematurely. I've searched through my Toyota Service Repair Manual (TSRM) and there's no instruction for this adjustment; only Data indicating Pedal height, free-play, stroke, and clutch release from pedal stroke end position. If they are all within tolerance/measurement should I assume I'm in the clear, or should I bleed the clutch system (hydro) maybe?
First of all, thank you for sharing. I want to ask, what is the problem when the engine is running and the gear cannot be put in. when the engine is turned off, go into gear and then start the engine while pressing the clutch will the car jump (keep moving)? how to overcome?
Thank you for making this video. The transmission came apart in my 95 GMC Sierra mainly because the last person to install the clutch did not use an alignment tool. Seems like a no-brainer. Right? It caused a cascade failure starting with the first bearing, second bearing, then on to the vibrating input shaft.
Nope once clutch lines up you had a weak gearbox nothing to do with clutch change
Wouldn't the clutch plate line up as soon as you push in the clutch one time
Do you recommend grease, only a tiny amount on the face of the throw out bearing where it meets the pressure plate fingers? I have seen this 50/50. I have a Hilux making noise at the moment and my gearbox mechanic says it’s noisy due to this area being dry. I thought grease here would fly off quickly
Have never seen that advice in any manual. VW, Cummins, Mack, International, Satoh. T.O. Bearing should do its design job when it hits the fingers. No need for slippage there. Any lube other than the sliding splines on the tranny input shaft or the clutch fork pivot is suspect.
Excellent video in every sense. Thank you. Really appreciated.
Hello, nice video. I have a question, maybe you can help. On my Ford Focus 2 I replaced all the parts regarding the clutch except for the pressure plate bearing inside the gearbox. My mechanic said it is ok to keep the old one which he cleaned it and greased it well. Although I knew this isn`t a good thing to do, in order to save some money I agreed and didn`t replace it. I mention that the bearing isn`t noisy but now I am afraid I ll have some problems later and it should have been better to replace it alltoghether with the other parts. The car has 160.000 Km. What do you think? Should I replace it now or wait, and how could I prevent any further problems? Thanks in advance for you answer.
Meanwhile BoostedBoiz 3 ugga duggas with the impact gun.
While I have the back of the engine exposed, if there are any water jacket plugs that are steel I will replace them with brass. I almost always replace the pilot bearing. You mentioned lube on the clutch splines, I also add a little dab to the release fork pivot, and make sure the pilot bearing has adequate but not excessive lube. And I always check the input shaft seal as well as the rear main seal. If they have a lot of miles on them I'll just replace them.
All good tips!
Awsome video keep up the good work, one pointer that i didn’t notice you mentioning is the pilot bearing, that’s one you probably don’t want to forget as well.
Just curious why you were putting white marks on the flywheel bolts prior to torquing them?
They get another 1/2 or 1/4 turn. This allows me to see when I hit that extra
just ordered a SMF and 6 puck sprung clutch for my mk4. excited to get going on the job this weekend. going to rnr the rear main seal and replace the gear oil in the trans while im at it. cant wait to feel a more aggressive engagement
Sounds like you have some fun times coming!!
@@HumbleMechanic just an update, got it finished up without any hang ups. there is that chattering noise at idle but I expected it tbh with the smf. thank you for the tips.
Charles, what do you feel about replacing the multi plate TDI clutches with the single from the regular line? You can save serious parts cost.
+Alexander McKay do you mean clutch or flywheel?
I am really interested in how much clamping force is being applied when installing the flywheel, 10 bolts at ? ft lbs = 20 billion lbs of clamping force. is it over kill?
I feel as though nothing is overkill when you have a 25-40 lb solid chunk of metal rotating at 6k rpm beneath your feet.
they have to put a cage around the bell housing in race cars incase it comes off so clearly not
Good job! Thanks for the tips!
Thank you bro, it was perfect from Cameroon
Intrestrestingly there seems to be some confusion. The bell housing has a hydraulic Concentric Slave Cylinder/ Release Bearing (O2M) Transmission but the new Release Bearing featured, relies on a lever. I used this video to identify the correct Friction Plate for O2M (Boss on Gearbox side) rather than the Double Boss Friction Plate. Egg on face if wrong.
#1a. Order the right parts. ;)
+J. Hunto's Garage yeah no doubt on that one.
This is an EXCELLENT VIDEO! Thank you for being informative, and detailed.
Hello, thanks for the video. I have Fiat Bravo 2 1.6 multijet 105hp. From 1-2 weeks I have an issue with the clutch - when I am going on first and reverse gear the car is vibrating and annoying rasping sound is heard on the front of the car. Sometimes I am not even able to shift the gears and when I turn off the car and pump the clutch and then the car start shifting and driving off without vibrations. Could it be a problem with the clutch release bearing? Or because of old brake fluid and air in the system? Thanks in advance!
Really good to know, need to know of I need to replace clutch or slave cylinder or master clutch instead.
Should've mentioned not pulling bellhousing on using the bolts, surprisingly a lot of people do this..
Say that when everything is tight, and it’s late in the day, and you have just 1/4’’ left to getting the dowels in
OK so I got a question. Just did a 2015 scion tc 6 speed clutch replacement. Car started the first time. Shut it down, went to restart and sounded like the starter was binding up or not lining up with the flywheel. Removed and redid the process for the installation along with a New starter. Same result. This has me stumped
Gday, awesome video, but one thing, is there a cheat way to align the clutch disk without buying the tool? because it's very hard to find the right one for my car where i live.
I found out the hard way, the clutch alignment tool isn’t perfect. Sometimes it has a little too much wiggle room, so make sure you hold it in the center by finding the center point with your fingers as you tighten the pressure plate bolts. Otherwise you’ll be trying to wiggle the transmission in forever like I did
Yay for calling it, "Release bearing" Last clutch I did was a 3pc kit. Disc, bearing, and pressure plate.
I have an 05 Dodge Ram 1500 3.7 and it has a 6 speed manual transmission that's giving me hell. Had the throw out bearing replaced along with all you would do for a clutch replacement but I'm getting a noise from it now. I think it may be the inner bearing because the throw out bearing is still fine after taking the transmission out again to see what the hell is going on. Any help and or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!
I just finished watching your video of how to replace a clutch, my clutch was worned out but now the problem I have is that the first comes out of place sometimes, any tips on what I might have done wrong? Any information will be very much appreciated.
3:18 Really stretching that flywheel bolt animation :)
10/10 production value
what about being sure to have the flywheel ground or replaced, or changing out the input shaft bearing?
Thanks for the good tips, EXPERT.
I'm considering doing the clutch on my 03 F250 I just have a couple questions what kind of grease am I supposed to use and is there anything special I need to know about lining up the trans when reinstalling?
Tip: Use an old input shaft for clutch alignment.
Clutch alignment can easily be done by eye. Mine always slide right on in.
Always soak the the clutch in engine oil over night. (Motorcylces)
+Country Jesus yea wet clutches are a whole new ballgame
Some motorcycles have dry clutches.
R N 90% are wet clutches
Don't worry our RMS have that on auto pilot for us.
Motorcycle clutches are completely different and almost always submerged in oil.
This is a good explanation in detail I’m doing the clutch on one of my trucks for the first time I had a mobile mechanic install it a 4 or 5 months ago and my girlfriend burned it out already I think he put a cheap one that totally shredded out I hate when they get no Orem parts that’s what happens when using cheap parts thanks
Thank you Charles.
The best tip I can give when replacing a clutch is buy an oe clutch, most of the replacement clutches out there are just cheap junk they feel wrong and don't last more than a year if your lucky
One of the very weakest points of the Golf R is the oem clutch...is one of the most important things if you want to enjoy the real power of them, i had my tune did with low torque app.... And is really anoying get that low torque to ride....
I’ll second that,I bought a “recon “ one of eBay spring pressure would not hold , had to do job twice , on a 4x4 Ford escort ,
High performance clutch are hard to use dairy busy traffic ,you will understand if you drive a 911 before.
Hi can you get better than oe parts, their water pump only 30000 to 60000 km life.
Tip: after replacing, don’t dump it or rev match or you’ll wear it out unevenly
Rev matching during break in definitely will not wear the clutch unevenly or cause any problems, but it will prolong the break in period since it reduces the work the clutch needs to do and results in less slippage. The more use the clutch gets, the faster it will break in.
I can only hope the mechanic that does my 2017 Fiesta clutch replacement is this concise.
Excellent FYI presentation.
Make sure throw out bearing is not riding on pressure plate, or you can kiss your thrust bearing goodbye! Don't ask how I know.
Jesse Haskins im sorry but i must ask since i fear im going down the same path, hydraulic clutch?
I had a mechanical system with the clutch adjustment screw too tight, I was also missing a spring (clutch fork return spring), oops. This caused my thrust bearing to get eaten and I got copper in the engine oil. I got lucky that it didn't eat the crankshaft, I caught it early. I just had to replace the main bearings. It was a fresh rebuild, when I wiped it too :( If your slave cylinder is not adjusted right the same thing can happen. The full proof way to look is to remove the inspection cover, and check to see if the throw out bearing is resting an 1/8th of an inch off of the pressure plate fingers. You can even push the clutch in and release it to make sure the throwout bearing returns to the proper place. Riding the clutch can also cause thrust bearing failure. Hope this helps, and saves a headache.
What exactly does that sound like? I just did a RA4 conversion kit and 11lb flywheel on my 04 a4 1.8t. it kinda sound like a diesel at idle in neutral clutch out. Rattles on the down revs too. Some says it's normal... Everything was torqued to spec though...
Rattling from a lightened flywheel IS in fact "normal". That's the trade-off of ditching your DMFW, as a dual mass does the job of a harmonic balancer in absorbing the vibrations from engine pulses. Having a steel lightened flywheel (as opposed to aluminum), one of minimum weight (12lbs and up), and a harmonic/fluid damper will help minimize the vibration/rattling, but you will still have some at idle.
Just the tip, and only for a second!
AvE?
autoairsteer Haha yes!
alexaescht you wanna quickie, or the whole 2 minutes
Yea but it doesn't count if it's just the tip.
Just had the clutch replaced in my cobalt the other day. Wasn't cheap. Some bolts that had to be taken out to move my fuse box out of the way never got put back and the engine hoist anchor got left attached. Should I be concerned about the clutch being ok?
Great video. Thanks for the input.
Why cant you use impact to remove?
axtra92 he said in the video, to avoid the air tool exhaust from kicking up harmful asbestos into the air you breathe.
Presumably a battery powered impact gun would be ok.
You didnt mention how important it is to machine the flywheel
I know I ship and they I said well the flywheel looked pretty flat and course now it's back in the shop again with the severe fork wobble!
So I just replaced my pilot bearing and release bearing on my 2014 mustang and I had to take the clutch plate and pressure plate off, I put everything back on the transmission back in and the car now will shift with it off but locks out of every gear or goes in rough while running any tips of what to do next? I believe I have to take it all back apart
I have a state I have a stage 3 clutch in my truck I'm trying to switch it back to a stock clutch I need to know if I need to switch the flywheel too any help would be greatly appreciated
you ALWAYS factor in DOING the throwout bearing........save up the extra money, get the whole kit, so worth your time its like not replacing the rear main seal on a small block chevy when you have the ability..... seriously.....when ya think ya can get away with not replacing it.....its when it shits the bed
rear main seal?
Lando Only replaced when needed. Not a routine maintenance part
ohio houston like hell its not. It's a seal with a limited life span. With the clutch out, it's just 5 more minutes of your time. An RMS leak will ruin a new clutch. Get it done in tandem.
I'd trust a non leaking oem main seal over a new aftermarket seal. Fel pro isn't what it use to be.
what else would you recommend i want to change the rear main seal since i got the transmission out car has 125k miles alot of city drivin
If your in there might as well do it
Ive just got a new cl;utch from a mate who had same engine and box. I only got clutch disc and the plate. Can i use my old release bearing? or do i have to buy a new bearing?
I am from Recife in Brazil South America great video, thanks for sharing…
I miss doing these 😢, why did everyone have to buy automatics
pseudoprodigy wanna do mine ? 👍😂😂
@Brian Hammond can you? It's not all of them ......
so that's what the beards for! asbestos, fibreglass, ceramic filter!
Fiberglass in a beard is the most painful form of torture 😂
I have an apr stage 2 tiguan 1st gen (American 1st gen) and am having issues in 4th, 5th, and 6th gear when I get into it, it feels as though the gear isn't catching, its a standard trans so its not like I can be in between gears. Does that seem like a clutch issue or maybe a flywheel or transmission?
I hope i dont have to change my anytime soon. My truck is at 184K miles and going but i just got done putting ti back together because it wasnt always mine, heck before i started working on it i didnt know the previous owner. STILL DONT. but none the less i have it on the road and legal now but im having to learn how to drive it. Its a 1994 Ford Ranger inline 4 5 speed. I'm pretty good at shifting even without a tach but the whole stop and go motion is tricky to me. And a buddy of mine thinks it's misfiring and boy i cnat tell and i cant read the engine light flashes correctly. I looked up the firing order, even though i thought i had it right, changed the order, and im pretty certain there was no change. UUUUUGH. I hope i dont tear this little truck up, so far i love it and i wanna keep loving it lol.
Hmm, KZhead decided to remind me of this video exactly 10 days after i replaced my clutch and now it feels like despite my best effort i somehow fucked up most of those...
All i can say is F
Same here.
U left out one important part the disc clutch goes on one direction not to install backwards
Most clutches will be stamped "gearbox side" on one side. It should also be very obvious that the clutch only fits one way vs the other. I always try the other way, and its like fitting a dowel into a hole vs a dowel onto a dowel kind of thing.
Mine just says Forward side, now is that forward into the transmission, or forward into the engine, i may be nuking this but don’t want to install improperly, I’ve heard, flat twards flywheel but at this point i don’t know what to believe
Brian BERNARD forward side would point towards the front of the car/to the motor.
Lol I did that, slapped it together, couldn't get in with it on, tried adjusting the pedal and had to do it over again. Live and learn I guess, and upon inspection it did say flywheel and transmission side... hindsight 20/20
even though I am a civil engineer but really I enjoyed your demonstration about the clutch because I have Nissan patrol 83 models running well. how about 4 wheel gearbox and its connection to the clutch? Thanks. Greetings from Riyadh.
Hi, nice video, can you tell me i recently changed whole clutch kit, flywheel is not resurfaced...now when i try to start from first gear or reverse slowly only with releasing clutch pedal i got small vibrations and shaking...if i add gas when im starting its fine but if i want only on clutch there is mentioned problem...my question is, is it need time and kilometers to pass to new friction disc adapt on old flywheel and it will be better, is that posible...or maybe there is some mechanick mistake due instalation? Thanks mate
Ohhh crap, now I realized that if my clutch fails I'm fucked! Around here (Romania) mechanics didn't even hear about the torque wrench...
+n33niki that's not good at all
Then use the mexican aproach, take a cresent wrench and tighten until it slips, it means that the fastener is torqued LMAO
Dont worry, its 99% of local mechanics almost everywhere...At least at a few countries a know in Europe. Impact wrench are their best friend, torque wrench is alien stuff.
rly? im a mechanic from romania and i don't use a torque wrench and and i don't use clutch alignment tool and the cars i fixed worked just fine.
vezi oameni ca tine ne fac tara de cacat.
Didn't do any of this and breathed a lot of that shit😂 still works fine.
Any reason not to use an impact to do the last 90 degree turn?
Suzuki baleno petrol (6000km driven) Have noise issue related with release bearing.I only replaced it (clutch release bearing) under warranty. Will it (or related parts like clutch plate.....) get affected in the near future again? Should I needed to replace the complete clutch set along with release bearing? ( Only 6k driven) Plz reply bro 🙏