Modifying a harbor freight 1x30
2023 ж. 25 Там.
19 573 Рет қаралды
Hey there! I made some modifications to my Harbor Freight 1x30 sander, and it's now an awesome knife sharpener that I absolutely love! Some of the changes I made could be useful for other purposes, such as wood sanding. However, I want to emphasize that using dust collection with metal sanding isn't recommended for safety reasons. Also, please note that I can't take responsibility for any actions you take with your own sander. I'm just sharing what worked for me. I hope you have a great time using your 1x30!
Great video! Thanks
I’m glad you enjoyed it. Thank you for watching.😊
That was a problem that I though of originally. I have a 400 watt inverter that I attach to my battery. I have a 12gauge extension chord i run to that. Eventually I would like to hardwire it in. But for now that setup works great. Also allows for the customer that is ok with me using power to run the extension chord for that. I’ll have to make a video on my setup 😊
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I’ve been thinking about doing this configuration with my HF 1x30. Now I will. Thanks!
Sam, this is Jim Callahan and Buford. I talked with you before you gave me a couple of my suggestions what I like to know what angle should I be sharpening kitchen knives, and knives that I’m having a hard time getting a real good edge I had a Harbor Freight and you’re like you have I have an angle guide I’m trying to sharpen about 20°that about right is there a special compound? Thank you so much Sam you’re doing a lot of good things and helping a lot of people. Thank you.
Hey Jim good to hear for you again. 😊 I personally start at 20° and if people want sharper or duller I go from there. But 20 should be crazy sharp! Should take hair off your arm going with the grain. Very little tugging almost like a razor after a few days of facial hair growth. The only thing I can think is make sure one the angle is correct. The angle marks on the side are wrong like 10° off. After that making sure to fully apex and get a wire edge, with the 120 grit belt. After that hit it with one to two passes on a 600. Then strop with the leather belt. Currently I have tormek paste on the leather belt. But I would like to get diamond emulsions when I run out of the tormek paste. It’s roughly 8-9k grit. But the leather belt really helps refine the edge, as well as removing the burr. A good stiff nylon cleaning brush works great for knocking off a burr after a single pass on the leather belt. Feel free to give me a call if it’s still giving you problems, and I’ll see if I can walk ya through it a little more clear. 😊
Generally, kitchen knives are in the 15 degrees per side. The key to sharpening is ensuring the apex (edge) is right at your lowest grit. If it is, then you are refining that sharp edge. If you pick up the 1x30 leather stropping belt using the green compound does a fine job.
@@WolfQuantum 15° is good for Japanese cutlery. It’s a little on the acute side for western, but I have had some people request it. I’ve just noticed that they typically are doing something speciality if they want it 15° and if it’s western cutlery it either gets nicked really quick, or rolls an edge really fast. You are absolutely right about apexing the knife! That truly is one of the most important parts of sharpening! The green chromium oxide is good especially if that’s all you have. Personally I like a diamond spray, or tormek paste. But also goes with what the client specifically needs. If they want an extreme polish. The green chromium oxide. If they want something that will be a super slicer for things like veggies. I’m going to go with the diamond spray. Thank you for chiming in by the way. It’s always nice building the community and sharing what works. 😊
@@Samsmobilesharpening I had a flashback to when I had just sharpened a few kitchen knives the day before. The next morning I heard my wife clanking knife edges into a plate. I cringed and yelled, "Please tell me you aren't slamming the knives I just sharpened into the plate!?" She was. She's learned better since. LOL. So, I agree that for most western and home kitchen cutlery 20 is fine and probably won't get damaged as quick. I only use the HF and green compound for not fancy kitchen knives. For my serious knives I use a KME non-powered and either diamond stropping tapes on glass blanks or diamond paste on leather blanks. I'm so bad though. Like the mechanic whose car is in the worst shape. I have everything from Arkansas to Waterstones, to the KME with a lot of extras, and the KO Worksharp. And a lot of knives. So, I just use one until it's a bit dull, toss it in the cabinet, and get another one out. Eventually, I'll get around to sharpening them. LOL. It's getting to be that time. For quick, honest, working edges the powered tool is the way to go. I knew a guy who would spend two days on an Edge Pro getting a 160K grit polished edge for clients who had more money and ego than an need for a working knife. Sorry, I'm an old farm boy from way back. A good farm, ranch, and field edge you can use and bring back in a less than 30 minutes max, is great for an actual working knive. Best of luck with the business.
@@WolfQuantum right!!!!! Can’t tell ya how many times I’ve heard that noise, and just cringe. I live out in farm country so a lot of the boys that work at the local feed store have me sharpen for them. By far the hardest abuse on any knives! So dull you can press full force and slide your finger and it will not do a thing. Spoons would probably be sharper. 😂😂😂 I’m the same way, for the longest time I always chased a mirror polish, did that with several different sharpeners. I did really like the edge pro apex. They work great for hair scissors, so that’s part of the reason that one stays. The 1x30 is just so easy. I tried it many years ago and didn’t care for it. But got back into it and with some practice it’s my favorite systems extremely flexible as far as finish, and as long as you are careful gets amazing results! 160k!!!! Dang!!!! He must be able to cut through the fabric between space and time with that kind of edge. 😂😂😂 I think worksharp has a stropping compound that’s about that grit. But may become necessary when they make lightsabers. Who know we may have to sharpen them.
I've been running my HF 1x30 in that configuration for a couple of years. It is hands down the best way to use that particular machine for knife making/sharpening. Do yourself a favor and get a leather strop belt for finishing. Talk about scary sharp...
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For some reason or another it’s hard using that angle guide. Can’t keep it steady knife moves too much down or gets stuck on the bolster. Especially if you have to use light pressure. But it’s a great set up especially if you add a variable speed motor to it. Sewing machine, or the psi motor.
I tried a variable speed motor for a router. But learned the motor needs a certain amount of power to even function. So I just made do with the single speed. I actually have really good luck with it.
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Awesome video and thank you!! Question: what hardware did you use to mount the sander to the boards. I see washer but what kind of screws are those?
I’m not sure the exact size. But I took the rubber feet. Drilled a hole in them, and got a screw the exact size. I went with a machine screw. On the back side used a nylock nut and a washer to keep it together. I’ll do a video showing it better. 😊
@@Samsmobilesharpening Thanks brother!
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Have you had a chance to check out the toolcker 1x30 belt sander? I’m almost $300 and I was just curious if it’s worth getting compared to a harbor freight belt sander
Personally I do not have experience with that specific setup. But I’m super impressed with the one from harbor freight! Significantly better than the 1x18 from worksharp. But to be fair that is a great setup for learning!
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Thanks a lot Sam, very good info on the 1x30. 😎👍
Glad I could give ya some helpful insight. I plan on making a follow up video here soon as a 6 month follow up. Then a 1 year. I did pick up a second one. The new model they released this year is pretty good! Only problem I have with it is they increase the power demand. Same speed motor, but uses more power. Kinda curious why it wasn’t the opposite way. But then again I’m not the manufacturer. 😂
@@Samsmobilesharpening have you had any problems with burnt knives tips with the 1x30? Some people say that it runs very fast. Thanks.
@@redangrybird7564 it does run quite fast. But It’s something I am very cautious about. With how I sharpen, I can’t feel any heat buildup. But something you can do, if you are worried is. Dip the knife in water or have a mist going on the belts. But some belts fall apart when wet so be careful there. Great question btw! Thats part of the reason powered sharpeners get a bad name. Used improperly they very easily can destroy a temper on a knife especially the tip.
@@Samsmobilesharpening thanks a million, I'm thinking to buy a couple 1x30 for a mobile sharpening business that I just started. At the moment I'm using a variable speed lithium battery Milwaukee floor belt sander upside down on a folding table. It works great because it is very powerful, it runs on batteries and I can adjust the speed but I need a more professional setting (access to an angle guide). 😎✌️
@@redangrybird7564 of course glad I could help. That Milwaukee setup sounds pretty cool! Honestly I’m just waiting for someone to release a battery powered 1x30. It would make that process so much easier! I would also look into a small generator for events and places where you won’t have power. I’m going to be picking one up here shortly.
Where did you get the angel plate
I bought it from Amazon. If you type in 1x30 angle guide it should pop up. There are two different versions. The one I use is the edge trailing or away from the blade. The other one is edge leading or towards the blade. I personally don’t like them but I know a lot of people who do.
My Ken Onion worksharp blew up the motor with very little use and I took it apart and found no serviceable parts so into the trash it went. The motor is tiny and you can't change the brushes.
Can we assume that the K.O. for home kitchen use or not even for that. Thanks.
What is the size of the wood you cut and made the modification?
If you are referring to the board I attached the 1x30 to. I took two boards. Measuring 8.5 inches x 9 inches. And screwed them together, with glue as well. 8.5 being the width. Your choice of wood. But I would recommend a good hardwood.
Thanks a lot for the measurements. @Samsmobilesharpening
@@AI-MPower7 of course 😊 if you have any other questions. Just let me know. 😊
Super awesome video. It was very informative. Any chance you made a video on how to built the wooden jig?
Thank you. 😊 I haven’t done a video on how to make the wooden frame. Basically it’s just two pieces 9”x8” screwed together. Not anything fancy, but it’s held up great. I’m planning on doing a follow up to how the 1x30 is holding up here soon.
Where did you get the angle guide
I got the one I use on Amazon. If you look up “1x30 angle guide” there are a lot to choose from. I just looked for one with good reviews. I will recommend getting a leather 1x30 belt from red label abrasives. Takes knives from sharp to crazy sharp!
Nothing personal but "these ones" 😢