DIY High Speed 3D Printer (CoreXY From Scratch)
A tutorial of building a High-Speed 3D CoreXY Printer from complete scratch. Can I beat the Bambulabs with a frugal 3D Printer made from available spare parts on hand? Let's find out! :D
PDF guides, BOM, Links & Firmware Samples GDrive link: drive.google.com/drive/folder...
A FRANKENSTEIN BUILD:
Like many others involved in 3D printing, one often accumulates spare parts and discarded components from past 3D printer upgrades and modifications. If you have some spares lying around, you can indeed put them to good use by building a fast CoreXY printer out of them.
TESTING THE FORBIDDEN IDEA:
Is it feasible to weld a steel frame for a 3D printer? (A question that has intrigued the 3D printing community for quite some time.) It's an idea that is often dismissed, as the possibility of building a skewed and misaligned frame is highly likely. The video shows how to overcome that obstacle and defy the old 3D printing taboo of using a welded steel frame.
WHY WELDED STEEL?:
3D printers are often built with aluminum profiles costing around +$100 for CoreXY designs. However, if built around a frame made from home-welded steel tubulars, the frame cost would go down to $4. Steel tubulars are common and abundant, as they are used as home construction materials. The idea of using a welded frame also introduces possible benefits for increased rigidity, essential for high-speed CoreXY builds.
MY JOURNEY IN 3D PRINTING:
Building the courage to construct a CoreXY printer was something I had to overcome. I started my 3D printing hobby back in 2015, with the ANET A6 (pre-release) being my first 3D printer. At that time, affordable printers came in kits you had to assemble with a provided box of materials. This experience played a crucial role in giving me an understanding of how 3D printers work. In 2016, I got my first SLA printer (FSL Pegasus) and my second FDM printer (CR10). From 2016 to 2023, my CR10 remained my main workhorse and favorite. I never really had a reason to upgrade to a new printer, as I was happy with my unit. I just needed something that works, and my urge to stay up-to-date in 3D Printing died down. In 2023, upon seeing the release of Bambulabs (the new kid in town), I finally had the urge to buy a new printer. This is when I discovered the world of Vorons and CoreXY communities existed. I had so much 3D printer junk by this time, so I decided to build my 3D printer from scratch in 2023, the MK1. It was a cantilever bed slinger design; I filmed a tutorial for it, but I never released it as I considered it to be a failure, as it was only as fast as any Ender 3 or i3. By the end of 2023, I finally decided to build my MK2 based on a speedy CoreXY design inspired by seeing Vorons. It was a personal project I never got to document into a video. After a few months of use, I was really happy with it! Thus, I made the MK3 specifically to be filmed for this video tutorial.
UPCOMING PREQUEL:
The entire video's original runtime was around 59 minutes long. I had to cut them down into chunks. I made a "How to design a CoreXY" chapter, which was removed from the initial release and will be uploaded separately.
VIDEO CHAPTERS:
0:00 - Intro
0:59 - Frugal Steel Frame Welding
4:45 - Finished Steel Frame Product
5:06 - Flee Market Shopping
6:25 - Component Placement
8:56 - Painting The Frame
9:13 - Prepping The Z Mechanism
10:27 - Linear Rail Assembly
15:49 - Hotend Assembly
18:20 - Belt Drive Assembly
19:13 - Endstop Assembly
19:42 - The Controller
20:09 - Wiring & Cable Management
21:47 - The Power Supply & Octoprint
22:24 - Custom Firmware
25:15 - Calibration Process
26:09 - Quality of Life Mods
27:02 - Test Prints
29:23 - The Verdict
#3dprinting #diy #engineering
I'm Back! :D Some of the cruddy components used were intentional. I just wanted to bring life to some of my old discarded 3D printing components. Holding a square with shorts, the machine is not designed to be a precision build, it was literally just a frugal project for the thrill of doing so. I'll update you all when I migrate to Klipper. Hopefully input shaping would make an impact on the next test prints.
Finally brother I thought you quit KZhead but now I am really happy to see you back this time please don't make us wait whole year
Would you also share the step files next to the solidworks files, to open the design on other CAD software
Yay Thought you quit lol
Waiting for part 2,3,4 of the mppt :D
PLEASE get some grease in your linear rails , the sould like they are completely dry and will die QUICK
This reminds me so much of the starting days of 3d printing, when there were no kits or tools specific for 3d printers, so you had to go around the hardware shop to find what you needed and use old pc power supplies as power source.... And in the end if you printed a cube that looked more or less like a cube it was such a success
Those were the days! 😭I can recall when I was little and asked my parents for a RepRap, I had a hard time convincing (in 2010) on how useful it can be at home. I waited a few years later until I can afford a printer with my savings, eventually I got the Anet A6 (i3 clone). I really missed the days when a bunch of parts I never knew existed (that all came in a box) and had to install them like Legos. The first print was the most rewarding thing I've ever felt at that time. The excitement would probably have been much more intense back during the pre RepRap's Mendel era, those things were so bare and crude getting to print a cube would have been indeed immensely rewarding.
This is a great inspiration because I have tons of old parts lying around. I started with the Mendel v2, un 2011. The only place to get printed parts was through eBay, and hardware vitamins and minerals from Home Depot. there were no commercial printers designed for desktop. We printed our own extruders from PLA or ABS - and they worked better than the MK series without gear reduction. There were no 1.75 versions, and now I'm left with dozens of spools of 3mm (not 2.85, actually 3mm) spools. I am designing a retrofit extruder.
the old saying i was taught as a kid learning to weld, "a grinder and paint make me the welder i ain't" i still use a lotta grinder and paint lol
Thank you for reminding me of the quote! I had trouble recalling the original quote during the narration haha. I'll never forget it this time around!
@@TechBuilder I was tought it as: Grinder and Paint makes you the Welder you ain't.
You beat me to it 👍
I'll be honest and say this is one of the most interesting builds videos I have ever watched. Proper use of what you have instead of buying all new fancy things. Excellent work buddy.
Thanks man! It means a lot! :D
+1
I clicked on this thinking it would be click bait. But no, it's an excellent build that you've put together. It would be nice one day to build my own printer.
Thank you. Take your time, and do it when you feel when you are ready. Cheers!
Wherever you graduated from, your professors did a wonderful job at imparting problem solving skills. Your speedrun build is spot on!
That wasn’t the professors.
Some notes about welding from a professional MIG welder; Get comfortable. Don't be anxious or anything; welding requires a steady hand. Especially on thin steel like you're doing here. Sit down to weld until you get comfortable enough to stand and weld. Get your face closer to the weld, so you can really see what's happening. Don't be scared of it. Yes, weld spatter will get on you. Yes, it burns. You get used to it. I usually weld with my face as close to the weld as I can, less than a foot (30 cm) away at most. You need to be able to see the weld puddle flowing to where you want it to go. The puddle will do what it wants and you must simply guide it in the direction you want it to go. You need gloves. That will let you get closer to your project and brace yourself for smoother lines. Imagine trying to draw a perfectly smooth, straight line with a pencil on paper without touching the desk, while holding the pencil by the eraser with one hand. This is effectively how you're welding here. Use your off hand as a brace for your torch hand to pivot on, don't grab the torch with both hands. I usually rest my elbow or forearm on the bench. Also, what you're using as a thumb rest is just a hook to hang the torch by. Torch height and angle is very important. This is what appears to have caused the excessive spatter and the majority of holes in your welds. Proper height and angle allows for correct heat distribution and wire feed for good penetration, assuming you're using flux-core wire. If you're not, then you need gas and height and angle are even more important so the weld puddle stays shielded by the gas. You want to stay between 5-15 degrees from perpendicular, and the wire should stick out around 3/8" (1 cm) from the nozzle. If you're using flux-core, you should "drag" the torch away from the weld, and double the stick out to 3/4" (2 cm). Also, flux-core wire produces slag that needs to be chipped away with a chipping hammer. Very basic settings guide: If it's just popping and not making a consistent puddle, turn your wire feed speed up. If you're getting excess spatter with correct torch height and angle, turn your feed speed down. If you're making a weld that looks like a worm sitting on the surface of the metal, turn your heat up. If you're burning through too quickly, turn your heat down. Of course, settings are very important. But you also have to match your travel speed to your settings. Too fast and you won't get good enough penetration. Too slow and you'll burn a hole right through. You want it to have a consistent "sizzling" sound, and the edges of the weld should be flush with the surrounding material. Also, make sure to match your wire to the type of welding you're doing. Pay attention to the diameter. You'll need different torch tips for different wire diameters. Tips and cups are consumables, and will need to be replaced often. Gloves and hood glass, too. I go through a glass a day, a pair of gloves a week, and tips every few days. Of course, I'm welding 10 hours a day. Finally, welding is a skill. It takes practice. It took me at least 100 hours to feel even somewhat comfortable doing what I'm doing. Practice on anything you can find to weld together. Start with welding on flat, then progress to vertical. Get comfortable; you should feel like you're sitting at a desk and doodling. Grind your metal before welding it. Weld straight lines on a scrap piece of metal. Practice different weld joints, starting with butt welds, then progress to laps and corners. You're doing great, for a beginner. My welds looked worse.
Great architecture, build, budget, filming, editing and story telling. Just the righr amount of everything. Either you are a natural or you've out a ton of brain, sweat, budget and rime into this. Totally impressed!
Thank you!
Oh man, all that welding and stuff that can fall on your feet and you're wearing sandals. You are a warrior
That is Asia....always a fight with my people to take proper eye protection and not 50 cent sunglasses
The best explanation of a scratch build i have ever seen.
Thank you! :))
Welding; Some tips here from a automotive fabbricobbler: Get shielding gas and throw that core flux garbage in the bin. Tap weld first each corner, i'd fabricate this by building the top and bottom squares first, just a spot weld on each corner, cross measure, machinist square to check it's square too, and you should be able to get within 0.1mm relatively easily with just tape measure -- errors show exponentially when cross referencing. Add more spot welds, allow that corner to cool while spot welding the opposite, and go cross hatch opposites, regularly rechecking it remains square. REMEMBER; Smaller the issue, bigger the hammer! So if you are off by say 0.25mm you'll need a big hammer. Fortunately, small single handled steel mallets are only like 5$ Remember to well all 4 sides fully for maximal strength. Cooling allow the stresses to give up, and as you add spot welds, it gets harder and harder to get off square, but more internal stresses will build if you go too fast. After the 2 squares are done, then just the uprights, same process but this time after first or second spot welds on each corner i would probably add on top a 25kg or 2 sacks as weight to force it to be in place and allow me to weld it faster together. Otherwise the same procedure. Slow is smooth, smooth is fast; So without weights and time you can get it better squared. **NOW ALTERNATIVE METHOD** Print huge stiff corner brackets on 45 degree angle. Adjustable, no welding, no heat shrinkage / thermal expansion / thermal warp issues. See how Slant3D has made their Mason printers. Tho much less stiff, you need 10x thickness for PLA to be as stiff as steel. So for 1.5mm wall steel RHS, you need 15mm walls, or a minimum of 15mm fully solid plastic to match the stiffness.
Flex core has the deepest penetration when run with shielded gas industrial welder and heavy equipment welder lots of buckets . Use tig gas with helium for the deepest pen on flex core wire . 7018 equivalent
I had fun putting my first Voron 0 together but that frugal design constraint takes things to a new level! Nothing fascinates me more than utilizing spares remnants of the past, on to a modern motion system. Hands down, I would love to see more of these! Perhaps make a segment called "Cheap Thrills"! Might be the next McGyver series. Amazing work Angelo! 💯
I had fun! You might be on to something with that "Cheap Thrills" segment idea! Thank you!!!
I know you said this was your first foray into mig welding, just a word of caution for you, besides your inexperience with welding, the fact that the steel was galvanised would be another reason you had issues, but the big concern is that you tried to weld through the zinc instead of grinding it away before you weld. This is a big no-no in fabrication and should be avoided at all costs. You are young and most likely not had any issues because of it, but please, going forward, remove the shiney coating before welding .or better still, just don't do it.
Inhaling zinc fumes will cause cancer. Welding without proper clothing will cause melanoma (also cancer). And yeah, galvanized metal is overkill if he's just gonna paint it anyway.
Nu uh
You can actually tell by the uniformity of the surface that this is definitely not galvanized. Galvanized almost always has variations and or a pattern, along with a silvery color that looks like silver spray paint. This is most definitely plain uncoated cheap mild steel. But this is the internet, and there are always know it alls that have to add their incorrect inputs. So keep doing your thing!
Who's correct!? How will we know now! Ahhhhh! Should we be upset at this kids profound, potentially cancer causing, mistake? Should we just frown at this commenter for his misinformation? WHO IS CORRECT! I need a third commentator!
Whoever's more recent is correct
I absolutely love how you routed all of the wires underneath/behind the controller board and then had them come from the bottom and connect to the board. It looks so clean! Very well done!
$27 gets you just under 1m of 1" steel square tubing at Home Depot in the USA. Absolutely insane. Metal suppliers obviously have better rates, but still way more. I was just so surprised by how cheap it was there, though obviously I know incomes and all are much different.
Over $140 at those rates to make your printer frame, hahaha.
@@802Garage built a tv mount that used about 20' of 1inch tubing, was $150, way over priced. Definitely a must to lookup near by suppliers. some suppliers require a large purchase, but some let you pick up if you buy a small amount.
It's interesting to learn about the prices of materials from different parts of the globe. But from my last trip there, I was shocked how much a board of plywood costs at Lowe's and Home Depot. In the Philippines, some tend to work abroad to save and retire back here. Probably due to a similar thing haha
@@802Garage $140?!? That's intense 😭
Filet mignon is 30 plus dollars in the US. In Malawi its 5 bucks and it's got nothing to do with economics. The people just don't like steak there .
This is a really impressive demonstration of working with constrained resources and still producing excellent results. Amazing sir.
This is really awesome. The quality for the speed on such a budget and built so much from scratch is really cool. Thanks for sharing with us!
Thanks man! It means a lot!
First, the opening was genius 👏 Second, your FW instructions were great! I have no intention of building my own 3D printer. But, as a software engineer, I can appreciate a tutorial that is both detailed and efficient.
what a great video man. i wasn't bored for a second during the building process and im still astonished how this produced a better benchy than my ender 3 considering that u had to make ur frame and all. also love the fact that you arent just buying everything and it made me realise that i can actually just make some stuff for my printer instead of shelling out money. also love the simplistic filament run out imma yoink that design for myself
Thank you! It means a lot! Have fun yu!
Your config set up document is exactly what I need to help me with my project. Thank you and great printer!
Thanks! Hope it helps! :D
THAT’S INSANE, mad respect to your skill! You’ve redefined what it means to be a builder. Even without input shaper equipped yet, it’s almost as fast as my ratrig. I’m really excited for you to get hold of klipper.
I love this so much!! This is my first time seeing your channel, and I've already subscribed! I graduate this semester with my degree in mechanical engineering, and even though I already have a few great 3D printers, I would love to finally be able to build my own! Also, I'm really impressed with the Google Drive - it's insane that you're sharing those plans for free!
Thank you!!! Congratulations my man!!!! I hope it helps, enjoy! :D
So glad you're back! Your projects are some of the best and inspired me to keep making.
Nice to see you here! Thank you! Keep it up! :D
absolutely brilliant! and of course you just released this after I spent a sleepless night pondering how much one could feasibly reduce the part count on a corexy. turns out one can actually make a single-arm gantry (so sort of like a Prusa mini but corexy) with some minor tweaks to the belt paths! Thanks to your inspiration I might actually build that at some point.
Thank you! Indeed you can.
This is SO cool man! You're really giving me the motivation to finally start the large-format printer I've been daydreaming about for years!
Thank you! I hope this helps with your future build! :)
Probably one of the best 3D printer build vidéo I’ve ever saw.
Thank you! :D
This thing is seriously awesome, and you've given me the inspiration to try it myself.
Thanks man, I'm glad you liked it! Enjoy! :D
Man ... I'm so happy to see you again sharing your amazing ideas and projects ... Very missed you !!!
Thanks my dude!
After building my first Voron recently, this video is way more approachable than I would have thought 6 months ago.
I'm new to firmware editing and compiling. I've been looking into compiling custom firmware for machines that are older with proprietary electronics and components (mainly XYZ brand printers) and no longer have support but could be modernized with a little effort. I'd been putting it off, but now that I've seen your brief run-through of your marlin compilation it has all of a sudden clicked for me. Thanks for your explanations and screen presentation of your work here.. it was far easier for me to understand than any other walkthrough i've seen.
Thank you! I went through the same thing before. My friend told me to flash a bootloader on my 2016 CR10 to get me to tune it. At that time, it felt really intimidating at first seeing YT tutorials about it. While I was editing this video, I tried my best to make it less intimidating to my past self. I'm glad it brought out that spark in you!
Awesome job dude, steel is actually a great choice, it can be more thermally stable over Aluminium and carbon fibre and is also cheap and very strong, the added weight will also help.
Man i know how much i want to build a voron but seeing how you made this with local shops has inspired me to design my own printer! I didnt know you could buy rails for so cheap here in manila either, thanks for this video
Looks like a really good printer! Also I chuckled a bit at the linear rails for 10 bucks per kilo. That is untinkable where I live but good find! Edit: The skr pico might have been cheaper than the skr mini e3 v3, it was for me.
Thank you!!!! I'm really glad the shop exists here! Diving in their used industrial section's my fave. They give a second life to the parts that end up as industrial wastes from nearby factories. The owner's an engineer which makes the items on the shelves much more interesting. Thanks for suggesting the Pico! I never knew BTT had that model. I'll try it out on my next mini printer build! :D
what this video thaught me is that everything in my country is a giant ripoff.
I don't know why seemingly nobody has done this other than you. I have parts for a voron variant I will be building after I move, but I might just have to do a welded printer too now.
I have had an almost identical design floating around in my head for almost a year now. Just don’t have a welder. You’re my hero!
This is an excellent walk through. Love the narrative. The PDF is an amazing bonus. I'm subscribing! Will be using your tutorial next time I need to fudge with my firmware.
Well done! the quality is shocking, but the fact that you still designed it and it works is an achievement lol You got skills and luckily for you, you can get the parts cheap enough to make a monster. Well done once again!
Thank you, it means a lot! The first one was built with me clinging on to hopes and dreams 😅 I was quite surprised as well to the MK2 worked on it's first test haha
@@TechBuilder Well ive subscribed now, so i can keep an eye on you in the future haha. I know you do other things, but we will see what you come up with in the future! Im a designer too with ideas, but im not on youtube yet. Still tinkering in the background until my debut haha. 🤫
Your timing is literally insane. This past weekend I was talking about your channel. We were talking about youtube channels from the Philippines and I mentioned this channel and then quickly browsed the channel to see if I had missed an upload or anything and obviously there wasn't one. This happens way to often to be a coincidence. Seriously I have had this happen like 5 or 6 times where I randomly looked up a "dead" channel to see if I missed anything and then within a couple of days theres a new video.
It happens to me as well haha
Watched this whole thing knowing I’d never take the time to make my own printer. Really good video and put together very well. I’m sure all of the editing and footage took a lot of time!
Thank you! The editing took more than 2 weeks to finish apparently. It made me feel burnt out as of the moment, I'll probably take a few weeks of rest before I start the next video haha
Great minimalistic design, great video editing and narration!
Thank you!!! :D
Awesome job Angelo! Thank you for your contributions to RepRap Community!
Thank you too! :)
I am absolutely amazed by your skills. This video really caught me and wouldn’t let go. Bravo!
I'm very experienced with Enders and CR10s. And agree with all of your points! Love glass beds and use hairspray. I'm not solid on the mechanical side of things, this is very very impressive. I'd consider myself an expert on the 3D printing side, and you nail every point. You are impressive, man!
This is the most captivating video on building a printer ive ever seen, kudos to you sir
I'm not sure how I came across with this video, but I'm glad I did. Great content and excellent project, an inspiration to creative minds. Subscribed.
Thank you, it means a lot!!! See you around! :D
I rarely comment videos, but I have to on this one. THIS IS INSANE. I loved the video. The fact that most of the printer is homemade is just awesome. Very good job. Small tips : you could add a fan blowing on the SKR E3 for better cooling of the drivers. You could also do go direct drive by printing a Sherpa Mini/Micro extruder housing, and just get cheap BMG internals and a cheap Nema 14 8/10 teeths motor. You could also print frame braces to stiffen the frame more, as you plan on printing fast with it. Good job again !
Thank you! That sherpa BMG tip sounds good! I'll consider it! :D While I haven't had problems with my SKR Minis running without fans, my peace of mind does suffer thinking one day it could break without cooling. Thanks for bringing this out, you've encouraged me enough to add fans on it. Cheers!
Great video!! I love the whole diy and reusing old parts theme. I've been slowly collecting scrap for a similar build.
Fantastic job! I watched the whole thing. I am an electrical engineer myself and like rto build things, but this was extreme! I have a Bambu A1 and love it, and wouldn't have the time to build something like this. I'll stick to small projects, but you gave me ideas that can be used for other things.
Awesome video! Looking forward to your future endeavors on KZhead with DIY 3D printers
Thank you!
Awsome video! Like the fact you talk about every litte detail, i am building my own corexy printer and this helps me a lot with the firmware, thanks!
Awesome work! I've been looking for a place that sells affordable linear rails and ball screws locally for quite some time now, Thanks for showcasing e-gizmo! This is going to be massive help for future projects!
No problem! Thank you too! :D
Just ordered a Kingroon KLP1 and was wondering how the CoreXY printers are built and as I opened my KZhead feed...there you were! Thanks! Great build!
Thanks! My thoughts before the project, haha. I had to watch and observe how CoreXY motion system work through a bunch of showcase vids in YT :))
This was easily the best 3D printing video I have seen in a very long time 👍
Hell yeah
Thank you!! :)
What a talented guy Good to watch someone way more intelligent and creative doing something I could only dream of. Well done on the build 👏 👍
I once heard that if you have woodworking skills, every problem looks like a woodworking project, if you can weld, EVERYTHING becomes a welding project! When I bought my first welder, I found this to be true. Welding is FAR cheaper than the alternatives, primarily because steel is cheap. It doesn't even matter if you can't create perfect (or even good) "lapped coin" welds, ...you just need to grind A LOT (and you will use a lot more spools of wire.)
Cool video. Flux core welding in sandals is prettt brave. I once had a piece of molten spatter burn through my glove and into my hand. Now i use welding gloves every time.
I'm running twin 9 mm linear rails form Core XY printer, very light indeed. Both linear rails run opposite to each other and are supported at both ends with a 3D printer Y to X joiner. The Extruder is mount to upper and lower linear blocks via 3D extruder mount. I also running 9 mm linear rail for each side of my Y axis.
This build is absolutely awsome im no expert of welding and havnt done it since high school but if you can get a welding glove, holding the nozzle to directly will help get a better weld.
Genuinely loved this video. I'll be replicating it soon as it's cheaper to use the material you've used than ordering the pre cut aluminum frame
Thanks!!! Enjoy!
This is awesome dude. Fantastic build!
Thank you! :))
Absolutely astounding. Not only diy up upcylable
Excellent video! You showed really good skills, technical knowledge and craftsmanship. I really enjoyed watching it.
I started printing in 2016 on a Creality CR-10 too!!!! I have a X1C and 3 other Creality printers now but still have that original CR-10.
I initially thought KZhead is pushing another clic bait.. But you have done a great job with this one.. Impressive.
Almost as fast without input shaping as my ratrig v-core3, nice job!
Really?! I never knew this one came close. Thank you!
Nice work! It's awesome to see a young engineer getting his hands dirty! There's no substitute for practical experience, it makes one a well-rounded problem solver. The pi-filter on the LED power supply is a nice touch! I also like the way you adapted that 128x64 LCD panel, and homebrewed a filament-out sensor. These are common problems and sharing those solutions helps everyone. Thanks for that. I'll be curious to see the results when you do the input-shaping tests. Your frame should be very stiff and has a good bit of mass (Did you mention the weight? I missed it.) Anyway, the resonances should be at a pretty high frequency -- I bet you'll be able to get some good speed out of this thing. Keep facing down those challenges -- it makes for a fun video!
Thank you! It means a lot! I’m kinda excited to try input shaping with klipper, I’ll share the results when I do get to try it.
Nice build, that cnc parts store was wild!
Very impressive build!!
Thank you!!! :)
Well done.. this is amazing. This reminds me of the good old days. The tinkerer in me is so happy.
Bro, i can't even know how to praise you. You da real mvp, can't believe these knowlage is for FREE.
Thanks! Well the ads are what keeps vids like this going. But for plans and files, I intend to keep it the way it is :)
congratulations! great build and nice video!!!
Thank you!
Well Done. and i'm a bit jealous for all the tools you have on hand.
Epic video! You are quite talented, thanks for sharing your talents with others! You inspire!
a store with all of those used parts is so cool wow I woulds love one of those being close, we never get stuff like that in our thrift stores
It's one of the hobby store gems in Manila. I really do hope so!
the first one Voron is a "bambu killer" but the trick is that not every user has enough knowledge to build it. it's easier to order a plastic toy that simply works. Some people want to use the printer to create their projects, while others treat the entire printer as a project. That's what's beautiful
Amazing build video dude! Thank you for sharing.
I love how in the shop they have some mini 4wd kits hidden amongst the "stuff".
Speaking from experience, the off-road model like what you have with the electronic brake master handles this upgrade better then the vacuum based unit in the sr5/sport.
Way to go! Great project. I can't weld either and it is a skill that I would like to learn. I might suggest that although squareness is very important rigidity is even more important and with a steel frame you get a lot more rigidity and stability so it will be interesting to hear if this translates into better prints as compared to bolted together aluminum extrusion frames... I am not sure about some of the 3D prints for things like motor mounts. If it is something like a plate that is simply being evenly compressed (such as an adapter plate for a motor to the linear motion hardware) but if there are any cantilevered features, etc then there will be some flex going back into your project. Your Benchy and vase at slower print speeds looked good by the way! Overall great project - i am impressed.
Great build! I especially like the steel frame. My Fenrir CoreXY is all the way to the other side with a 3D printed frame. It should be stable enough to be fast as it's in a full box design which adds a decent amount of rigidity, and it's V0 sized. Can't wait to see more videos on your 3D printing builds. :)
Cool name for the printer! You have that beautiful open front don't ya!? I wanted to attempt an open font but I hesitated midway, thinking my build is too large for it and would probably flex in higher speeds. Your V0 sized build must have been perfect for it!
Thank you. :) It's actually a full enclosure with a door etc, but it's still easy to see the tool head and first layer. @@TechBuilder
2 minutes in and I'm in love with the process! Immediate subscription and like!
Thank you!!! :D
9:53 face protection while cutting steel, but flip-flops on the feet 🤣
I have sinned @osha 😭
Gracias. Excelente video. Lo usare para revivir 2 viejas impresoras y usar partes sin uso. La forma de explicar lo hace mas fácil para mi. De nuevo gracias.
He is back 😮 Please don't leave us again, I really like your project videos🙂
I landed here as i am using an old Ender 3 Frame right now for Rebuilding it to an Voron Switchwire configuration. Your build is realy great, without Heatchamber i would compare it more to an very upgraded Tronxy Setup, i got my X5SA-400 pro up to 300mm/s with standard Parts, and some additional Printed Parts inclusiv an Dragonfly Hotend. For others which can't weld, maybe look into a Printer called Teebot. I got the Suitecase Version from 2014. You need a Printer but there the Corners were printed connectors for Steel Tubulars Screwed together. Very Solid. The biggest Advantage in my Opinion of Steel Tubulars are Magnet Add ons and Mass. The Heavier a 3D Printer is the higher his Innertia, which in it self reduces vibrations. A Steel Tubular Printer makes so much sense thinking about it, that the only reason not using it maybe the Problems in properly Welding it. You seem to have found a great solution: Good enough to Adjust the Rails for it. Very ingenius Solution which lot of Builders don't think of it as they are fixated on Aluminium. There a 0.3° deviation will be carried over to the Rails, thats why they don't weld it. On a Flat Steel surface you can correct it. I think thats why your Mark III is better then your Mark II in deviation.
I really appreciate seeing non fabricators getting out there and making things, but I have to say the part where you dragged the file backwards over that hardened rail is killing me (and probably all the other machinist)! It's been 10 minutes, and it's all I can think about now 😂
Great build!
Thanks! :D
Heres a phrase for the next welding project, "Grinder and paint, makes me the welder I aint" 😂 thank you for sharing this awesome video, I want to make a 3d printer from scratch too
This is very impressive, but I think it also works as a great ad for Bambu labs, showing that you really do get value for your money.
Thanks! Honestly there’s good value to what they’re offering. A really refined printer out of the box and their ecosystem. While they have some cons, they have a lot of ups as well.
Thanks for the detailed instructional video. I can see you have a lot of knowledge. 👍
Great work, thanks for the details and plans!
This was a great video! very informative and very well thought out.
man that is super impressive. that was a fun watch!
the time I notice the 100 peso bill and 20 peso coin. I didn't imagine your a Filipino. Iba talaga and gawang pinoy haha
Fill the tubes of the frame with good old beach sand. It will eliminate most vibration at high speed and make it stiffer as well 😅
Dude totally just subscribed. Going to watch this one later. I don't even care if you went over budget. I want to do it myself and I've been thinking about this for days
Thank you! As long as you’re willing to go through all of that and feel you’ll have fun doing it, I’d say right on! Just prepare lots of coffee and stress comforters around haha
So freaking cool.
Brilliant tutorial mate really enjoyed it
Glad to see a Filipino electronic nerd here in youtube
Solid video but I miss the old cinematic build videos! I especially loved the bluetooth speaker video, I sometimes watch it just for the nostalgia
Thank you! Sadly, I wont be doing much of those cinematics anymore, it takes so much time to orchestrate. Perhaps, I'll try to do a cinematic vid once a year.
@@TechBuilder thank you!
klipper would be a good upgrade
I really excited too! I cant wait to hook up that ADXL sensor.