Replace Center Support or Carrier Bearing on Toyota Tundra Tacoma ,No Press or Special Tools U Joint
**IMPORTANT UPDATE: Make sure to mark the drive shaft at both ends in relation to each other as well as the vehicle so that orientation is exactly the same when reinstalled.**
If you hear unusual noises (howling) or feel shuddering when you accelerate, there is a good chance your center support or carrier bearing needs replacement. Josh takes you step by step through the process of removing and replacing the center support or carrier bearing on a 2010 (same for years 2007 - 2013) Toyota Tundra without using a.
The general principles of this video will apply to most rear wheel drive vehicles but the specific details may vary.
Job Summary:
-Remove drive shafts from vehicle
-Separate shafts at universal joint
-Remove old bearing
-Install new bearing
-Reattach shafts and reinstall on vehicle
Tools Needed:
-Jack & stands
-Socket set
-Oversized socket (size depends on model/year)
-Wrench set
-Impact gun
-hammer
-Straight screwdriver
-Pliers or vise-grips
-Needle nose pliers
-File or sandpaper
-Grease
Optional: Bungee cord, grease gun
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Well done young fella! GREAT common sense R&R with safe practices, you explain things in detail yet condensed so well we are learning the whole time! As a 40 year veteran heavy equipment mechanic it was refreshing to watch you work this through. YOU AND THIS VIDEO was sent to my son to illustrate what I could not for him, THANK YOU
Do not remove sections of the drive shaft BEFORE you mark each section's original position to where it mates with its adjoining member. The entire length of the drive shaft (all sections) will likely have been balanced as an integral unit. If sections are reassembled so they are not in their original alignment, you may end up with vibration. This applies to servicing universal joints, removal of splined shafts, and bolted sections removed from adjoining sections.
That seems like sound advice!
And convert to a 1 piece shaft. Much better
iontheball1 I believe it’s called indexing. I messed mine up. Where are the factory markings? 😕
How much play did you have with the new carrier bearing? I am trying to determine if mine needs to be changed, I have about a quarter of an inch of play when I push up and down. You did not show that in the video so that we could compare new versus old bearing.Thank you
Marking the drive shaft components is very important and not because of balance but to keep the axis's of the U-joints in line with each other. When synced in properly all the U-joints will have their spindles in 12, 6, 3 and 9 o'clock positions at the same time. That is when to slide the splines together otherwise you'll get vibrations. When all U-joint caps are in the 12, 6, 3 and 9 o'clock positions at the same time the tops all move to the back and bottoms to the front together in unison. If not they will fight each other and require the drive shafts to move slightly back and forth at high pulsating rates creating vibrations and causing excessive wear.
If your here you Finally came across the best video for replacing your carrier bearing and or universal joint!
Thanks man 🤙🏽
Awesome video! Thank you for the good instruction and detail. I am about to do this for my 2015 Tacoma, and this video made me go from being skeptical to having confidence to do it.
You should always Pre mark the driveshaft and the yoke to make sure it goes back together the same way and stays balanced
You have to keep it Balanced.
You are so well spoken and to the point! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the details on removing the bearing.
Respect the hell out'cha for wearing sandals while wrenchin'. Great video, great flow, hit critical order of operations.
i had to watch you 5 times but you answered every question i had thank you so much for your time
Great video. I wore sandals one time working on a vehicle, dropped a part on my foot and went back too boots no matter what.
Yeah I wouldn't recommend sandals while working on your car but being in Hawaii I'm guilty of it more than I'll admit!
@@BudgetMechanicHawaii Living in Phoenix, I also wear mechanic sandals.
We'll all be safe once they come out with steel toe sandals
You didn’t mention it but the old bearing was actually installed upside down, nice that you put the new one the right way
Thank you for this video. I learned a lot from it and was able to do it myself. This was the first time I've ever replaced a u-joint and it turned out to not be too bad - always had a little concern of doing it right, without troubles. I did smash the end of my 14mm socket though. Also, I ended up having to rest the joint on my bench vice instead of on the ground. The vice made it a lot easier. Keep in mind, I did not put the shaft's tube in the vice (bad idea, can damage the tube and cause vibrations) but just rested the joint connections on the vice to bang away on with a hammer and socket. One last note, I just did my 2007 Tundra 4WD and the front of the rear shaft where it meets the transmission had a flange with 4 bolts instead of the yoke with splines as shown in this video. The bolts are fixed/welded to the flange so you only have to loosen the nuts and remove the nuts.
I also found this out. My flange was seized pretty good.
I have a quick question, I noticed in every video regarding u-joints and carrier bearings, everyone specified marking the drive shaft so it goes back together the same way. I noticed you did not do that, is marking the drive shaft something that really doesn't need to be done?
Awesome. gave me confidence to remove and replace mine. Thanks.
This is a very good video. Clear, understandable and solid. Well done - than you!
A lot easier working on a vehicle that doesn’t live in the rust belt, just about easier to buy a new drive shaft on mine. Center bearing lasted 370,000 km. Thanks for vid.
thank you , very much for showing all that you did , and you explained very well.
Why don't you have more subscribers? YOU'RE AWESOME!
Good tip on using the socket to seat the new carrier bearing.
It's a good video. The only thing I would suggest is recommending you mark axle to drive shaft drive shaft to yoke orientation as well as drive shaft to transfer case or transmission. You can wind up with a harmonic vibration.
You made this look so easy. Great job.
Thanks 🤙🏽
Good presentation well thought out and presented I also like the precautions and limitations that you went over on the various items.
Thanks 🤙🏽
awsome video and explanation of the process of replacing the carrier bearing,time to replace mine on my 08 Tundra.thanks
My carrier bearing is shot in my 08 Tundra too! May as well replace all the universal joints while doing this job.
Only thing I'd say is to use the OEM parts and not aftermarket. List the part numbers also. Great video sir. Thank you
Thanks for sharing this video with us.
Was greasing the U-joints on my 08 Tacoma this afternoon when I noticed the exact same looseness on the center bearing. Wasn’t sure, but I thought it might be worn out...Reading thru the replacement procedure in the Hanes manual left me a little intimidated, so I was gonna let my Toyota dealer do it and try not to grimace at the price. But after watching your exceptional video on the Tundra, I’m gonna give it a try. Guessing it’ll save me a bundle! Thanks a bunch and Merry Christmas!! LarryS
You can do it! Just be gentle with those bearings as you put back together.:)
It was a good video very good job but you how do you when you Slither Yokai notice he didn't line it up so what if you're out of phase with the front one? If it's out of phase it'll eat those U-joints up very shortly and have a vibration
Might I add, use a C-Clamp to get the caps pressed in as far as you can before whacking it with a hammer.
Hey man great video.. Would this be the same method for a 2000 tundra 2wd? I just bought it and notice a bad grinding sound in first gear only.. when I hit second gear it goes away. Not sure if its because the shaft is spinning faster or if it's internal with the first gear// Really praying this is the fix.. I did grab the drive shaft by the center bearing and noticed quite a bit of play. Should this be tight or do they have play? Also.. I was going to jack the truck up and put it on jack stangs and put in gear while lifted to see where the noise is coming from.. thoughts?
This is the second video I've watched about replacing the carrier bearing and rear U-Joint. Neither of the videos included replacing the front U-Joint. If the front and rear U-Joints have the same number of miles on them, it would make sense to replace them both.
Def!
Very!!!! Well explained. Thank you!
Javier Cavazos thank you!
Excellent video, thank you for your clear explanation.
Glad to help 🤙🏽
Excellent filming and explanation
Thanks
what brand you picked up for the new carrier replacement?
Very nice video, I have an 02 tacoma and its an identical process.
porthos6914 thank you! Trying to make videos that are easy to follow!
Excellent dude thanks for teaching me how to do that thank you
Are the u-joints located at the carrier the same size as the u-joints located at the transmission output and the rear differential?
Excellent video thank you mate 👌
Hey man! Moving to Oahu in a few weeks my Tundra has been shipped through Matson today, and I have this issue. Do you have a reliable mechanic you suggest on Oahu, just trying to not get taken to the bank by the dealer.. Mahalo! 🤙🏼
Excellent video!
You work in shorts and flips, I can tell you surf haha! Totally how I work on cars LOL! Great video thanks. I followed your steps to a T and it was easy.
U might be the only dude in flip flops I’d bring my truck to! 😂 great video Thank u
Comfort first! 👎
Awesome video helped a lot
Hi, budget mechanic, please let me know, would the symptoms of worn bearing be a howling/whirring noise almost like wheel bearing but a constant whirring. Thanks in advance, great video and subscribed...
David Paveley yes it sounds similar. Due to location of carrier bearing it sounds a bit different. You can also just go ahead and check for play. I just went through this issue
Great video. I just finished taking the shaft off on my 2007 4wd. The only difference is i couldn't pull the spline from the transmission, so i disconnected 4 bolts at the front yoke. Is the construction different on the 2007 or is this a 2wd vs 4wd difference?
Hmm not sure, what bolts are you referring to that you removed?
You are right. I just did my 2007 Tundra 4WD and the front of the rear shaft where it meets the transmission had a flange with 4 bolts instead of the yoke with splines as shown in this video. The bolts are fixed/welded to the flange so you only have to loosen the nuts and remove the nuts.
Thanks a lot bro you make me feel more confident about it
Glad to hear that
Great video thank you. I think this must be the source of my vibration under load. What sort of play is there in the new rubber compared to worn out? Also, for around $10 bucks each does it make sense to just replace the three U joints while it is all apart, or even just the one that must be half way disassembled? If the center support is shot I would think the U joints may be quite worn. But I am not a mechanic so this may be way off.
Rick Ridgeway, yes it does make sense to do all the universal joints! I did all three on this job. I thought I mentioned it but maybe didn’t make clear enough. Rubber on new carrier was firm but still had a little play.
Awesome, thanks again, excellent video. My rockauto order is on the way!
I have the same set up, the center bushing from Toyota is $193 and I guess I should get the universal also to be safe. The service writer told me that I don't want to know how much it would be to replace it so it looks like I will try. My 06 Tundra has 132,000 miles and I've had it since new.
Damn I wonder if replacing the whole driveshaft is worth the extra money because it’s easier
I will follow your instructions. I also see that it is very important to mark everything, so the shaft is lined back up (Gear to Gear) back into the same location. My concern is this shaft remains balanced, when it was installed when truck was manufactured. What brand of Support Bearing do you recommend? What universal Bearing should I use? I have a 2000 Tundra.
I don’t have a specific brand that I always use, I usually choose the higher quality line at any given parts store. They usually offer you the cheaper brands as well as a “premium” line, which I try to use for jobs like this
OEM TOYOTA
I don’t think you phased the u-joints when you reassembled the new bearing and yoke?
Great video thank you
Flavio Sampaio thanks for watching!
Great video indeed. Good job! Gotta a question, I have Tundra 2012 and installed 6 inch lift kit now. Before installing the kit, my driveshaft carrier was fine. Yesterday I noticed my carrier bearing is wobbling same as you have shown. Do you think this damage to carrier bearing is due to lift kit or its normal for 2012 model and time to change. I am worried if i do change the carrier bearing and lift is the problem, I will soon screw up the new carrier too. Whats your recommendation on the above?
Did your lift kit come with carrier bearing spacers? Iv seen people just use longer bolts and washers. The ome 2.5” lift comes with a 8mm spacer . Idk a lot about it
Thanks man pretty clear.
Thank you. You saved me a lot of $$.
😀👍 thanks for sharing
Yea man i have a 06 tundra i need to do that on thanks for the video
Thanks for the comment, good luck!
I have an 03. I may just put a one piece driveshaft on it. Less vibes and complication like the old Toyota trucks that rode smooth. Those 2 piece shafts have been a big problem on the newer tacos tundras 4 runners and so on. They didnt used to do that.
@@superwilcox9026 I’ve got an 04 Tundra with a vibration almost like a hop at certain speeds…my old ‘83 with a one piece shaft never did that. A word of advice…buy a Dana/Spicer bearing. I replaced mine once already with a cheap one and it almost had as much slop as the old one I took out, now I’m about to do it again with a OE quality replacement.
Where did u get the carrier bearing
Freaking great vid bro. Thank you!
Glad you liked it!
Yep, index the attachment points to each of the drive shaft ends AND the yoke because these drive shafts are weight balanced at the factory. Experience votes for always replacing the universal joint. Not only can a used bearing fail, the joint itself can completely crack in half and fall out. Also, many higher end carrier bearings will be stamped with an "F" indicating which side of the bearing faces forward but most do not so note how it's oriented before you remove it? Lastly, as was noted you should wear some decent eye protection with a good, snug fit? I've got a nasty eye infection at the moment from road grit that dropped around my daily wear glasses while replacing the steering rack in my 2011. Decent shoes are kind of a smart choice to wear jacking around in the shop too, just saying
Good words!
Very helpful
Nicholas Seepersaud I’m glad it helped.:)
That play in the center bearing is normal, as it is surrounded by rubber so it's designed to move.
Im thinking of doing this, I noticed a noise on bottom of my Tundra 2007 took to dealers said it was the hub bearing assembly +($180) diagnose. I just had local shop do the hub and found out it was not the hub but it's the driveshaft bearing. Can you tell where I can get this part since dealer told me I need the bearing, a spider kit and a nut for a whopping $690 just parts. I just read your in California what area I live in Coachella valley. How much would you charge for that repair? Besides oem parts what other brand I can use? Thanks for the video well explain.
I’m actually in Hawaii. I often get my parts from rock auto. They stock good quality aftermarket parts
Carquest carries Spicer supports which are the OEM used by Toyota
Did this fix the issue? I have 2009 Base 4x2 Tacoma (virtually the same setup) - what brand did you use? I put an Anchor CB on the drive shaft and I think its lead to it vibrating at 50mph when I reduce load and cruise and during some points of deceleration on a decline. I definitely marked all alignment points. It might be the Moog U-joints, so I'll do them again as well. I noticed that the CB donut is pretty soft and easily wiggled around making me think its inferior. The Spicer/Dana parts are OEM Toyota and thats what I'm going to replace it with this time and really doesn't cost that much more. Lifting that drive shaft up to mate the splines perfectly is a pita when you're only on jack stands. If you're installing 3 greasable u-joints, does it matter if all the zerk fittings are on the same side of the shaft or is that just enough to throw off balance?
For me it worked! I used the anchor part and so far it’s holding up well!
@@BudgetMechanicHawaii Thats awesome. Mine has lots of play inside the cage. I can push the donut up and down and side to side. Maybe mine is defective or counterfeit. It didn't start that way, but after it "broke in" symptoms returned.
Jeremy Watts Dana/Spicer part# 5002334 ordered mine off rock auto. Rubber Donut even says Toyota 4x2 on it👍
@@Wesly5384 Thanks. I found the same part on Amazon and did it. My vibe is pretty much gone and now I can feel the tires if anything. My truck being base is running Michelin Defenders which are kinda hard IMHO. I think I used RA as a reference and order from there sometimes, but you have to be careful because they have cheap parts that skimp on some of the quality under brands like Gates. I think there are a lot of knockoffs and copies floating around (although the same can be said for the Amazon). I had a fiasco with a Gates water pump and there are stories about timing component kits for other cars. I now have a spare water pump on the shelf due to how they process RMAs, but at least I have it.
@@Wesly5384 great job Dane. Part number helps a lot when ordering. Would you happen to know the part numbers for the U joints? Thanks
So I just did this on my 2nd gen Tacoma (nearly identical process) except I just realized I left out the thin washer. Would you recommend pulling it back apart to add it?
Going to be honest I don’t remember which washer you’re referring to... what part is it from?
Once you remove the 30mm nut there’s that thick washer and then you pull the yoke off. Between the yoke and the carrier bearing there’s that really thin washer. I had gotten everything back together when I saw said washer on the work bench, I felt sick haha. I ended up playing it safe and going back in to install it. Thanks for the video though, I’ve been meaning to replace my carrier bearing for months and your video was super helpful.
John Pickering good job! You’ve got extra experience now ;)
Hey man good video. However, my yoke needs to be replaced. Is there any place you know of to get one or am exact name of the type of yoke needed? I have an 06 toyota tundra v8
Joseph Hawks are you talking about the pinion yoke or the one half of a universal joint?
Its the center yoke that slides onto the driveshaft and then bolts on. Its like right beside my center carrier bearing.
Joseph Hawks I see what you’re talking about. I’m having trouble tracking down the right part number from Toyota’s diagrams. On older tundras its called the “yoke sub-assy (sub-assembly)”. I would call Toyota and see if they can confirm a part number for you and then buy it somewhere else.
Thanks man. Preciate it
Did the "customer" complain of driveline vibrations after the install? These are balanced at the factory, when a yoke is just randomly put on a spline the driveshaft is now out of phase.
Do I need to replace the small amount of fluid lost when pulling the drive shaft out?
It really shouldn’t be enough to worry about, but it’s a great time to check your fluid level anyway!
Please tell everybody to when they pull the Yoke off by the drop by the center support make sure you mark it so you know where the old goes in relation with the front because if you're if you're just slide it on anywhere it won't be bending at the right place please tell your people that thank you
ASAP. why my spline won't slide back on ? Is there like a master grove to put in place on order to slide back on ?
No master spline! Just have to get the shaft as straight as possible as you rotate it slowly to get the splines to mesh...
you're a Beast.
I have the same problem the issue that I did not find the part in KSA so I have to wait as they say for 3 to 4 weeks and may be may be the will be able to get it for me is there any way I can get it online.
Yes I would check all the usual suspects, rockauto, amazon, ebay, etc
Great video! Well lit, excellent camera work, nicely explained. From start to finish, without having to explain along the way, how long would this job take you? I figure my time would be double that :). Thanks and I subscribed!
sunburntcurt I think this job would probably take me and hour and a half. Longest part is those hard to reach water pump bolts!
Did you notice some knocks when either taking off on a slope or just giving a bit of gas at a light ?
This particular truck did it when accelerating on the highway. But bad carrier bearing can manifest at several ways
How much did the center carrier bearing cost? And did you have to order it or did you get it at the dealership or one of the other auto shops in Hilo? Mahalo
David Wallace, howzit? I usually get stuff from local shops, I can’t remember which one. But I’m on Kona so it was probably napa ;)
$55 on amazon. @@BudgetMechanicHawaii
As a amateur mechanic from Michigan with a tacoma, it triggered me when he called his driveshaft "real rusty"
Same. KZhead videos do not show you midwest levels of rust. Trying to get out the guide pins on my front brake calipers is a joke once they are about a year or two old.
Them boys ain't even seen rust. Let em come up here, slide around, and see how rusty it is after that 🤣🤘
Nice job. video was very explaining especially referring to tools and safety, I'll be back. :-)
Aloha bro! How much do you charge for this bearing replacement? Mahalo.
Aloha! Are you on the big island??
@@BudgetMechanicHawaii No sorry, am in Cali. Just curious what this costs out there in HI (and how long it took for you to do it, solo. Mahalo!
@@robertonestaj1329 Give yourself a whole day if it's your first time!
2009 tacoma my center bolt was a 15/16 just a fyi not all the same
i have a 2005 tacoma i have it nuetral but the drive shaft wont turn can you help me ?? thank you
You’ll have to lift at least one rear wheel. You don’t always have to turn it tho. Are you trying to reach a bolt on the driveline?
I think there's a big c clamp you can rent I wouldn't beat on that universal joint I know someone that ruined the whole drive shaft that way
your Carrier Bearing is upside down. 1 hole goes on the bottom and the 2 holes go on top
I have 2001 tundra that whine taking off in first gear then stops. Automatic tranny! Suggestions
What year was your tundra
2010
Flip flops and kakis. I immediately subscribed.
Ah yes, the good old days!
What is the part number on each piece of that whole drive shaft
Part numbers
Afraid I’m not sure, I just ordered based on year and model of truck.
Budget Mechanic Hawaii I meant the sticker on the drive shaft I need the actual rear part of the drive shaft
Mark Garrity sorry that was a customers car from a few years ago no way to look. Just google the year and model and part and a Toyota parts Diagram is sure to pop up
My 05 didn't even come close, 5 hours and a cutting torch.
I see a mechanic in Hawaii needs a different outfit to a mechanic in London. Esp in November 😁😁
Local mechanic here on the east coast said he took my driveshaft to a driveline shop and said THEY said the carrier(middle support) bearing couldn't be replaced...2007 tundra....Damn Liars.
Matt H, maybe they meant it can’t be replaced.....using a screwdriver? :)
@@BudgetMechanicHawaii you wouldn't happen to know what the notorious 'clunk' is, going from park to drive or when you take off from a light, or stop kind of feels like being pushed or bumped at 2mph. I'm assuming the 3" blocks up front didn't help 100k miles ago(262k now) , and made the carrier bearing rattle like that on this video, and that rattle stretched the yolk nuts (?)or caused the splines to dry out in the yolk(?).. Now I think I have rear end issues. Clack clack clack or wobble and or both.
Matt H hard to diagnose from here I would definitely have someone else look at it!
@@BudgetMechanicHawaii thanks anyway, I did that 2x. I've decided I'm gonna get dirty and figure it out myself. Thanks for the video for sure. I've done head gaskets it can't be impossible to put a rear end back together... Those mechanics want you to believe it's all magic under there, meanwhile on the other side of the world some guy is making his bearings out of box full of screws, some soda cans, and a file... and gets his truck going again. Mahalo(spelling?Verbage?)
Matt H mahalo indeed! Good luck.:)
Would’ve probably been easier to use the blue vise that’s in the background instead Olof having to work on the floor.
30lbs on the carrier, 64lbs on the diff flange.
SAFETY NOTE: wear closed toe shoes or better yet safety work boots/shoes.Other than that a really good video very informative.Cheers
Just put a 1piece driveshaft on. Much less problems and vibes like the Toyotas of old.
Where do you get that?
Very good educational video Man. But don't you fill kinda like uncomfortable doing auto repairs on that attire, I mean it's a dirty job , I wouldn't do it wearing shorts and flip-flops, that's crappy crazy ,,😜 thanks for your video do.
Chaly Falcon Thanks for the comment! It’s definitely comfortable but probably not advisable.;)
@@BudgetMechanicHawaii I have a 00 Silverado extend cab, bearing ruber is bad, any advice on how to do it, should it be the same way as on this Toyota. Thank you.
Chaly Falcon I’m afraid I can’t say without looking at it. Though the concept of drive lines and the carrier bearing is pretty universal. Just the fittings may be a little different
Yolk, bearing, whatever. Dudes sexy as hell!!!
I got to admit it when I first one I saw you wearing flip-flops and like what the hell am I doing here. But you were straightforward and you’re not one of those guys are just like the sound of their voice, so much that you just babble on about stuff that is not about the job, or Task at hand. One thing I wanted to ask is why some guys make score or draw line with a permanent marker on the differential to the shaft and into the front shaft to the transmission.To make sure that the shaft goes back in the same way it came out. I assuming, Because all they said was make sure you make a mark to remember the way it came out. And put it back in the same way.But they never say why or reasoning for this step. any thoughts on why that is important or is that even needed. Is it to prevent further damage from the Ends of the drive shaft or the receiving parts for the shaft.I would assume any damage that will mean replacing it. Any info would help thank you from anyone
Get you a ball joint installation tool makes u joints a breeze
Right but read the description, NO PRESS
You know he's legit cause he has flip flops on.
“Slippers”
A guy should match mark the driveshaft to companion flange.
I would not recommend doing mechanical work while wearing flip flops.
Bro i had to use way more force to get anything off