Blacksmithing - Making a spring swage (12mm round dies)
2014 ж. 24 Шіл.
386 504 Рет қаралды
In this video I show how you can make a spring swage.
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I love that you blacksmith in short pants.
Finally somebody did the easy way
The steps shown in the video were clear and easy to understand. I now think I may be able to make the spring swages I needs. Thank you!
Great! This is one way to make them!
How many guys who have welded find themselves closing their eyes or squinting when you see a guy in a video about to strike an arc?
IronheadOfScroteus I looked to another part of the video. 2 years of welding habit can't be undone by years and years of not doing it. I haven't ever had an arc flash headache, and I intend to keep it that way.
even with an electric hood I still close my eyes, after 40 yrs of welding
Every time...
Never, I have an auto darkening helmet and have for years.
These are wonderfully made videos - thanks for taking time to set such clear shots! So interesting to see the methods used, very clever and effective techniques.
I am a Master Cabinet maker and a Wheel Wright. I started when I was 9 years old and maintained my skills while serving in the U.S. Marines. After retirement from both vocations I put away my uniforms laid down my weapons and sold my cabinet business in Los Angeles and moved to a place where if there are three cars on the road it is considered a traffic jam and there by news worthy. I have been watching your vedios and I think I got the steel bug, so I have bought a few Anvils and a Vice. I have made my Forge, so please keep making those vedios. Yoou are an inspiration and a supeb artisan.
+Abby Babby Wow, thank you! When I get time, more videos will come!
+Torbjörn Åhman Hello. Around 8:20, when you are drilling the hollows for the swage, wouldn't have been easier to heat the swage block, hold the stock in place, and hammer the stock impression into the face of the swage block, rather than drilling? As you might do to create the grips in tong jaws? Is there any reason you did it this way instead? Thanks - and keep up the great work/videos.
m456griffin That's another way to go, yes. I think you have a little more control drilling the hole and you get a more precise sized hole. For other shapes it must be done hot but a straight and true drilled pilot hole might help also.
+Torbjörn Åhman thanks!
I have never seen that "Anchoring" Technique before. Thanks for sharing.
Very good video editing! I absolutely love the soundscape of smithing - my childhood neighbour was a blacksmith hobbyist and this reminds me of him.
Love all of your videos Brother!
Dear Torbjörn, as usual another excellent instructional video. That concealed fixing is truly neat. Cheers.
Love your videos there amazing
Very nice work! Your editing technique is also entertaining. Thank you! Looking forward to the next video as well as making a swage like yours!
Very methodical yet simple, thanks!
thanks for turning me on to this video! I learned alot Grant
your vids are never boring ..
Thanks!
great work.. ive had quite a few "aha!!" from watching your videos
Great! Thank you.
getyamanz . Onde se aplica na cutelaria. Grato
I like you videos to much special in morning, when a I m drinking coffe, Tnx.
Another awesome video i see some more tools i have to make i rather make them than waste money buying them then you know what its made of and have great pride in making a quality tool qreat work fellow smith
Steve Obee Thank you!
Personally i love watching the hardening process
You just earned a subscriber
Sweet! Thanks.
Hello, im going to be forging a spring swage soon, what was the middle measurement for the bend? 60mm and 30mm center then drawn out to about 100mm? great videos also! giving me a lot of ideas and knowledge on how to do it all !
Movie producers could save so much money purchasing gun sound effects, just head over to a blacksmiths shop and record the power hammer and speed it up!
That anchor is nice..... seems like if you drilled it to the same size as spring it would be a bit more snug. Especially since when you heat the block it would expand and then contract down on to the spring after punching it.
Good observation. Only problem is that the round stock isn't that exact in size or shape. It's often even a bit oval. I think I would have drilled 10.2 or 10.3 if I had that size drill bit.
Torbjörn Åhman Good job indeed. Black round bar that isn't quite round. Been there before, once with a big bundle of it. Egg Bar I called it, lol. If it is oval though, for that job, I would have forged it more round and used a 10mm drill bit for a tight fit. You need a 10.2mm drill bit for tapping M12 threads - so you should have one. When you're stick welding try holding the actual rod with your gloved left hand, when it's a full rod or long enough. Hold it between your first and second finger, like a TIG torch grip. Much better control. You only need one hand for the electrode holder. Sorry, not criticising, just adding to the debate.
I'm curious if this method is better or just quicker than hot swaging the bar into the dies? Seems like this is more accurate and reliable.
Thanks
Torbjorn did you aneal the "spring", or quench? also on your heat treat did you quench into water or oil? thanks I'm learning so much from these videos.
The "spring" is just mild steel, so I left it as forged only. This being 1045 steel, I quenched in water. It's all dependent on which steel you work with.
espetacular o seu trabalho!!!!com quem voce aprendeu a fazer? aqui no meu país esta arte esta desaparecendo,é bom ver que alguem mantem vivo algo que nasceu com o homem e nos definiu como civilização
maragatoh Thank you! Yes, I'm mainly self taught.
next time share the heat treating id be interested to see what coulers you use for the spring and also what steel you are using.
The type of steel is mentioned at the beginning. C45 aka AISI 1045. Only the dies are heat treated. In this case, heated to non-magnetic, quenched in water and then tempered in the oven at 250 deg C for an hour. It all depends on what steel you use. A prefect type of steel would be AISI 4340, which I would just normalize (no quech).
Great video. What are your thoughts on putting two different size holes in the same swage?
Thanks. I have thought about that... You might have to use a little bigger "die", so the tool would be slightly heavier, but other than that there shouldn't be a problem.
Torbjörn Åhman
what kind of temperature or color would some one need to add the springiness back into the steel ? and does it need quenching and or tempering ? thanks man ! i loook forward to your reply. ps......great videos
+winston alpha That really depends on the type of alloy used. For this tool I use mild steel, and it is springy enough for this application. For real springs, mild steel would start to deform, so hardened and tempered steel is used. There is a group of steels known as "spring steel", usually around 1% carbon content. Springs are quenched and tempered quite high, around 400-500 deg C I think.
OK cool, i will remember this and experiment with it.....thanks for the time to reply,
Hi Torbi, it´s me again. I would like to know, how to forge a dies for the hole in the anvil for cutting off hot iron. You show a dies which has a rounded upper rim (edge)....and excellenty works for cutting off. I need also to make one...manually.. Tack pa förhand :-)
That is actually my very first video. I uses my hammer though, but with some anvil tooling you can forge them by hand easily with a striker.
Nice work. I am not a blacksmith but I can tell the difference between something that is well built and something that isnt. I would have figured that you would have just welded the ends of the round stock to the blocks, or at most, drilled them in a little and welded. Drilled, grooved and peened and then welded? That joint will never be a failure point. the finish is nice too. It could have been serviceable and a whole lot more rough looking, but you made it look nice, which is a mark of a good craftsman.
+Brian Choitz Thanks!
Interesting way of fixing the two blocks, for a moment i thought you were going to pressure fit the round stock into the holes by heating it up and hammering it in, so that it bulges out and then pressure fits in the hole, this way looked interesting but i was actually somewhat disappointed you had to pull out the welder in the end. Am i to assume this is not a traditional type tool? and only used since the time welders would have been available?
Well, you don't need to weld them really, but it adds a bit of more stability since the round stock can rotate. This type of tool was probably made when machines where introduced on a broader scale... a hundred years ago or so.
Ok, i see ... Tnx for your time to answer :)
👍
How feasible is it to make or use something like a spring swage without a power hammer or a drill press? If I ever do manage to get started blacksmithing (not exactly practical in a small apartment), it'll probably be pretty small scale. I doubt I'll have access to high-end power tools. Could the dies be held in a vise or clamp and a hand drill with the appropriate bit(s) be used to bore them out?
Hand drill will probably work fine. But I would recommend you look at a "guillotine tool" instead. Better suited for hand work.
Thank you very much for your reply.
Can you show how the leaf swage is used on the power hammer? I can't seem to get the swage to work.... THANKS!
I'm not sure what you mean by "leaf swage"... In my mind there can be many different types.
Not having done this before and maybe very wrong I would have done this differently , forge weld the handle into the dies while forging a 12 mil bar into a 10 mil drilled cavity ?
Not possible...
I'm no blacksmith but wouldn't a locating dowel and corresponding hole align the two halves of the die with perfect accuracy on closure? Just a thought
Could work, but not really needed in this case. The two halves center themselves quite good especially when you turn the work all the time between the dies.
I have a question. When you heated up the swage block to receive the tong part of the spring, why did you not heat up the tong as well? If you had put a hot tong inside the hot swage block wouldn't they sort of weld together as you hammered the bits of metal into the narrow bit you filed to grip the tong better? Wouldn't that create a much stronger join as they both cooled? I'm not a blacksmith, but it was a detail I noticed and wanted to know why you left the tong part cool while the swage block was pretty hot.
+SpiritBear12 To forge weld two pieces you need much higher temperature and is not practical at all in this application. In this situation I want to deform the block into the groves of the round "spring". If heated the spring would deform as well and I would be back at square one sort of. This joint really don't need to be strong in that sense, more secure, to hold the block in place. If the joint is a bit loose and the blocks wobble or rattles a bit, it does not matter as long as it is aligned and held in position.... does that make sense?
Torbjörn Åhman Well, I not being a blacksmith will have to take your word on your method. As long as it works and does what you want it to do, that's all that matters. I was curious.
+Torbjörn Åhman Why 12mm?
+Faust1169 12mm was what I needed. You can make them any size.
How did you heat treat the ends, with oil or water???
Water, since these are 1045/C45 steel.
Thanks.
How far up and down could you use the die to round with? 15 mm to 10 mm?
With this particular swage you can only do one size, 12mm. You can make a swage in any size, you just need a hammer to match it! I have seen ones 100mm in size
I have been appreciating your videos lately for many reasons. I especially like the rhythm of hammer blows, the "rests" in between striking, and the way you set your hammer down when you are almost finished with what you are doing even though you're going to pick it up seven more times to make adjustments. Whether by hand or otherwise, there is a distinct pattern. Weird, I know. But, I can't help that I hear it. That's more about your other videos, though. This one, however, might be a "game-changer" for me. I have avoided spring swages. I have not gotten much use from the ones I have purchased or made before they broke. This video has given me an idea as to why that has been. And, it's so simple that I'm almost embarrassed. All of the spring swages I've used have had the spring butt-welded to the dies. Maybe, that's okay for a powered hammer with guided dies. But, I don't have one😔 🙏
Thanks! But welded will probably fail sooner or later however you use them. This approach will hold up a long time even if the dies rattle and gets a bit loose.
МОЛОДЦА
What if instead of the groove and punching the blocks in to it you just got the tip of the bar and the block to forging temperature, put some flux in the hole and upset the bar inside of the block. It would look a lot nicer and be easier I think =)
+Robert Briggs Forge welding like that would be tricky I think. This is all about function, not how it looks :) This type of joinery is not my invention, but has been practiced for a long time so I believe it serves it's purpose well.
+Torbjörn Åhman People don't like shortcuts because it looks like cheating.
dude u have fucking sharp tools! n1
where did you get the cross pein hammer at 9:44 ?
+John O Connell Oh, that's an old swedish brand called "Tors Hammare". Nowadays you can buy new ones made by "Hultafors", more or less the exact same pattern.
thanks! theres a hultafors shop down the road from me. never would have thought in ireland :)
John O Connell Ha ha, cool.
Why not just chamfer the round bar and full weld from the beginning?
Tyler Scott A weld is likely to fail. Especially in between steels of different types like this.
Torbjörn Åhman If you weld it properly then no it isnt. It can be as strong as what you are performing here.
***** I don't think so actually. I'm no expert, but the pros does it like this.
Bom dia! Eu gostaria de saber falar inglês para entender melhor o que você faz... parabéns!
Have to ask - what's the point of going to all the trouble of filing a groove, hammering it in etc. when you just go and weld it anyways? Why not just weld it period instead of all the extra work?
+Peter Reynolds The weld I do is not necessary but keeps it all in place. Only welding against the die will break sooner or later, especially since many types of steel suited for dies are not "weldable".
Ahh, okay, figured it was something along those lines. Thanks!
🇧🇷😎👍👏👏
vart köper du ditt stenkol?
crazy polish dude Har köpt via orsajarn.se men även på blocket när det dykt upp något.
Don't you tempered?
I'm pretty sure I did!
what is the hardening process
+Anthony Burgos Depends on what type of steel you use. 1045 heated to ~850C and quenched in water, then tempered to about 280C.
+Torbjörn Åhman 4041
Anthony Burgos Check this page out, pretty good - www.anvilfire.com/FAQs/heat-treating-4140.php
+
02:12 RIP Headphone users.
Ha ha, sorry!
It's fine. Loving the videos. Keep being awesome. :)
The high pitched squeaking is caused by your work piece being too far out from the vice. Move it in next time to avoid vibrations and that sound.
what is this
+Ömer Arda Gürel Check out my next video how it can be used.
+Torbjörn Åhman okay tank you :)
+Torbjörn Åhman sorry yes I understand very good video
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какой же это блексмитинг..сварка, дрель болгарка...
Прости , не знаю твоего языка. Но , делить видео на части это инструмент жулика.
Ra onok fungsine blasss...