Flushing an engine with paint remover - will it work?
2022 ж. 2 Қыр.
300 333 Рет қаралды
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In this video we try something that you definitely shouldn't use to flush your engine. Or should you?
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I've used transmission fluid my whole life (well since I became a mechanic) it cleans super well and doesn't have any adverse effects on the engine. Run it a while at idle flush it out and it's clean as a whistle. A lot of cleaners have tons of detergents that really hurt viscosity and can be corrosive. Transmission fluid doesn't do that, and it also takes high temps well where as a lot of flushes effect that and the oil stability. Used this method the 20 years I've been doing this with great success. I have heard of the old school guys using thinners and stuff like that tho. But, great video!
I've heard some long time mechanic guys recommend diesel, to me it sounds like a horrible idea 😅
You use Full (pure) (only) ATF in the sump, or a little mixed with engine oil?
@tomasnokechtesledger1786 I'll usually just add about quart to the oil depending on how bad it's sludged up. Always just use as an additive not a replacement of the oil. And you can do it a couple times of needed. Or do it changed the oil then next oil change do it again. It works well I've used this method for years with good results.
ATF has a lot of detergents added to it, even a lot more than engine oil @@jasonmarange5973
What type of trans oil is, a 50w40, 70w, for auto transmission?
would have been cool to see what happened after a second flush, to see if it got even more clean - and also interesting, say in 6 months time after the flush, take it apart to see how the gaskets and softer metals held up to the paint stripper
It’s not uncommon for engines to fail horribly after a flush because clumps get into the small channels that transport oil. It just seems to take a couple of weeks to notice damage depending on how much the engine runs. I would really like to see a follow up on this car. :)
@@Thecando In the States Jiffy Lube sells a flush that has ruined many engines.
I'm actually curious myself, if it will eat through rubber pieces, like valve cover gasket or certain engine rubber tubing.
Is that what Dimixide is? Paint stripper in a more liquid form maybe?
I love how the translation used the aussie word "rooted" means f%%$Ked as in the tree roots go deep
The paint stripper is methylene chloride (CH2Cl2) very good at removing organic oils (nonpolar). The dimexide is Dimethylsulfoxide (SO(CH3)2) which is good at removing both nonpolar and polar contaminants.
so does that mean they are similar or very different?🤔
@@raven4k998 rather different. Both can be used on oily (nonpolar) compounds, but only DMSO works for polar substances.
@@JoshStLouis314 but can you run crysis on it?
@@raven4k998 you can if you huff it
@@suzysuzuki8865Huff that and last thing you see on earth is concerned paramedics and crying family members.
I have used diesel fuel with great success. Apparently it softens seals to stop leaks another bonus . Quites noisy lifters too .
Here in America near the Southeastern side of the continent we generally use transmission fluid for our engine flushes. With a 1 quart transmission fluid for four or five quarts of engine oil placed inside of a running engine for about 45 minutes then change usually does a pretty good job removing all the sludge and carbon buildup 🤷🤷.
In my meshanic days this dealership I worked at took a dodge van in traid. It had ten pounds of oil pressure and all the tappets were clattering. I took out the drain plug and nothing came out. I couldn't figure it. I went to get an opinion from another mechanic. By the time we got back there was a long black drip hanging out of the drain. I shoved a long screwdriver through it and at last filthy oil started running out. When it stopped I replaced the plug and put on a new filter. Then I added a gallon of solvent. Upon starting the engine the pressure went up to 30 PSI and all of the lifers quieted down. I drained it and filled it with transmission fluid, ran it for a while and finally put in regular motor oil. It ran great!
You don't need to do anything this aggressive. Simply run a synthetic oil for a few oil changes, you be amazed at the sludge and gunk that come out.
The thing about using atf is it can be misleading. It burns and turns dark at a temp lower than combustion temps. If you fill your car up with atf and run it and the fluid you drain is super dark it doesn’t necessarily mean you’ve cleaned anything it only means you’ve heated the oil enough to “burn” it. I’m not saying this doesn’t work, but would it work any better than using a very high quality high detergent motor oil? I dont know.
@@tenmil1 use Marvel Mystery Oil. It's been on the market for decades, out performs any detergent cleaner and there's plenty of testimonials and proof if you search. I've used it for year. You can also add some to the gas tank. Not so much to clean the injectors but to break down carbon deposits between the injectors and combustion chamber as well as help clean the rings and restore compression.
@@highpsiguy4085 absolutely. Marvel mystery does in fact work. Stuff is super useful for a number of odd jobs.
We use diesel fuel like that on old dirty motors. Let it run and then let it sit over night. Run it some more but do not drive it. Then change the oil and filter.
But at what point in that process did you piss on it?
I once ran a motor that had been sitting around in a corner and the outside was a big ball of grease. The inside was a big ball of sludge but I started running nice new detergent oil and after couple thousand miles I had the valve cover off and could see where the new detergent oil had been dissolving the sludge.
Mixing your oil with paint thinner seems like an interesting way to add octane and clean out the engine. As the oil heats up it'll off-gas the solvent, which will go through the PCV and into the intake!
Get real
I think bmw f1 team did something very similar back in the 90s (?) My memory ain't perfect. .. Either way some f1 team was definitely fined for using off gasses from oil as a combustion enhancer.
@@jamesrobinson9176 F1 turbo cars in the 80's used to use Toluene which has one of the highest octane ratings of all fuel types, minus Xylene and hydrogen.
you can also use diesel+oil mixture to clean inside of the engine
atf fluid is way better
I'd be worried about tossing a strong solvent inside an engine eating the seals. Compatibility between fluids and seals is one of the main reasons we have somewhat standardized major fluid families.
Specifically Acetone, which was in it for sure.
That was my biggest concern as well. Those seals weren’t even addressed in the video, which tells me that it wasn’t good. This guy seems to have a decent knowledge of engines, so there’s no way he didn’t think of it as well…probably censored on purpose.
I made a long comment above with details, but I did this to clean my engine using diesel.
@@AmstradExinNot Acetone. They are using Methylene Chloride formula stripper which blends easily with any oil. Acetone does not really blend in with oil very well. It's designed to dissolve polymers and resins.
@@RetroCaptain ok
Love your channel ! Very interesting test you performed. It reminded me when I was young, back in the early 1980's. I worked at a small "hole in the wall" auto repair shop. I was 20 years old. The owner was a WW2 veteran and had some pretty strong chemicals still stored in his garage. He'd bought them cheap as government surplus in the late 40's . For some reason, American engines in the 70's and 80's were full of sludge!!. I know they've improved since then but petroleum products weren't that clean back then. This Oldsmobile was loaded with sludge. SO ONE DAY....my boss hands me a quart of the stinkyest black colored chemical I've ever smelled. It was horrible!! He says, "drain the oil out of that engine, and put 4 quarts of WATER and one quart of the chemical into the engine! I said WATER?? But that will ruin his engine! "NO IT WON'T" my boss told me...so I did it. The boss said "park the car across the street and let it run a 2000 rpm for a half hour! Steam was blasting out of the tail pipe, the entire time, and the horrible smell filled the entire neighborhood!! The Steam kept blasting out of the tail pipe for over a half hour. The boss says, "Okay, bring her in and drain it". The "oil" was coal black , thin as gasoline, and it burned my eyes and nose while it drained. I was choking! I removed the valve covers and { was shocked! The valves, springs, rockers and heads looked brand new!! I said "where did you get that stuff Bill"!! He said "never mind that"! Its been banned by the EPA since the 50's!! hahaha! That was the last time we ever used that chemical. Never knew what it was but boy did it work!!
meh the car needs to sniff a bit of paint thinner🤣
I'm very curious what that chemical is, what did it smell like? pool chlorine?
@@Misha-dr9rh it's paint thinner it cleans like paint thinner will clean you should try it🤣😂🤣
@n.matthewcarter6437🤣🤣🤣🤣Sometimes the old ways are still the best ways!!
That darks stuff may be oil with sulphonic acid. You gotta flush it back with fresh oil before the Last running oil fill.
The problem with the paint remover is that it will damage the gaskets and seals in the engine, as well as some other plastic parts that some newer engines have (like timing chain tensors, for example).
You really think they care?
@@darkskys1757 I don't. I just had to point it out
I liked it to more of a warning for Idiots going cool. I don’t have to spend money on engine flush. I’ll just put paint thinner in it Hurp Derp.
@@brettweltz8135 just let them do it, survival of the fittest. If their stupid enough to do it, they shouldn't be driving.
@@brettweltz8135 🤣🤣🤣🤣
respect as always to BMI russian for his skilled translating
This channel is always fun, but this episode was particularly interesting. I’ve owned around 30 vehicles so far, and worked on 50 or more; but the only time I used motor flush was back in 1987, on a 1970 318 V8… and I have no idea if it was ultimately more helpful or more harmful. 🤷🏼♂️ While I find the notion of flushing accumulated sludge from the oil passages to be very appealing, I’m too leery of potential damage on the camshaft lobes, as well as killing computerized components on a more contemporary engine, by using something as volatile as paint remover. ☠️
it can eat plastics and rubber so yea itll fuck some shit up on newer cars with electronics lol
@@yalolol it could also damage gaskets.
I could definitely see using it on a motor destined to end up in a demo derby car.
It will probably eat at all the engine seals and worse case the loose sludge block's oil passage ways creating a blockage and then starving the engine of oil. For entertainment and FUN factor, I am 107% positive this would clean the internals and the engine if the procedure is repeated several times (5x) with combination of new oil + oil filter.
As one other car channel said (fordbossme I think) you can’t go fast on the crud removal because it can clog the tiny oil passages these new engines use. Still best bet, change oil often.
Thank you for translating more recent episodes for us, as I watch the Russian version thru crude text translation, but its so much better to hear it this way.
I am from the south and here in middle Tennessee I always heard of the old timers using kerosene when I was growing up. I kind of got that idea from my dad because when he was young he repaired watches for his spending money and he always soaked them in kerosene before repairing them. He always told me kerosene worked quite well for that.
Damn for real?
A few years ago one of my kids had a suv that they hadn't changed the oil on for 2 years. (They told me the change oil light service light never came on. I very politely told them that whether or not it comes on, the oil needs to be changed every at the minimum every 5k miles if they are using synthetic.) What was in there was like sludge the dealer wouldn't touch it. I used a regular engine flush product on it three times and then did regular oil changes with a quart of transmission fluid for the 5th quart 2 more times, over the next next 2 months. At the end the oil was clean and the motor was running properly. An old mechanic told me the tranny fluid trick. He said it contains a lot more detergents than regular oil and should clean it up. Thank G-d it did the trick.
Another old timer thing was diesel... That's what my grandfather taught me.
@@Z_732 yes, I've used red diesel but you need to be careful no to dilute engine oil too thin
I’d love to see how much boost a stock lada engine could handle!!
For gasoline engines : Heat the engine / oil and add 2-3 quarts of ATF . Let it run for a minute or 2. Drain and refill with clean oil. ATF will wash the engine prior to the oil change. Works great to clean lifters, pushrods and oil feeder channels. For diesel oil changes : Heat your engine / oil. Pour in a few quarts of diesel fuel. Start the engine and let it run for a minute or 2. Drain and refill w clean oil. Diesel fuel will wash diesel soot out of an engine like crazy.
paint thinner always cleans gummed carbs and other parts so of course it would work inside an engine but might not be good for the gaskets and rubber parts
Or bearings once it delutes the oil.
Or modern engines with various breather pipes and hose couplings made of high temperature plastics. Hell, on my TDi Golf the whole oil filter housing's made from some kind of plastic !
This is an amazing way to ruin someone's day. Just tell them to dump paint thinner on there oil, wait afew hours after the first start for them to call and ask "why is my gaugeclister lit up like a Christmas tree, and why is my engine ticking?"
I hope your carbs don't have plastic parts..
They did NOT use pain thinner, but paint stripper! Quite a difference
Great experiment! This channel never stop to amaze me...! Good luck with making more exiting content.
I was happy to see you cut the oil filter open! worked good. I'd attempt it on an old beater.
Paint thinner eats away at rubbers and plastics. It's bad for engine seals if you use it as a flush. But cleaning metal surfaces is not a problem. I suggest just getting pure acetone and mixing it 50/50 with a ATF oil to use as a scrub.
gasoline and petrol mix cleans alot better and it dont destroy gaskets and seals
@@DeeDee-pw9pm they har ruskis what do you expekt?
Gasoline and gasoline? Lol
@@tboniusmaximus3047 Yeah cuz gasoline and petrol don't mix. (harhar)
You have to be extra careful with this one. Depending on the type of paint remover you use - you could cause hydrogen embrittlement, which is a very serious problem for hard steels. You could end up causing a valve to break and drop into the cylinder, broken rings, etc. Look it up - hydrogen embrittlement. Certain types of paint removers contain hydrogen compounds that can cause it.
what if dimexside is just the more costly version of paint thinner?🤣
@@raven4k998 It's not thinner, but paint stripper remover, different things.
hydrogen compounds? do you mean compounds that can break down into hydrogen? Because I believe only hydrogen - monoatomic or diatomic - can cause hydrogen embrittlement, and I don't think it's appropriate to call any other compounds "hydrogen compounds," so I'm just curious.
I just read something about cadmium in the steel getting into the paint thinner I think, but however it does it exactly, it reduces water to hydrogen. Of course, you can't avoid water on earth very well.
In the US, most paint stripper contains methylene chloride. Usually a thickener is included in a stripper formula as MeCl2 vapor pressure is fairly high - it evaporates quickly. The thickener allows the chemical to soften the paint before it evaporates. Methylene chloride would dissolve grease very well!
I thought Methylene chloride or dichloromethane was actually been banned in the US. But this is also likely much different than the Muriatic or hydrochloric acid based paint strippers I am used to using, which is why I was terrified watching this. They were mostly likely using some solvent based paint stripper, and I never even knew such a thing existed. Since I have only ever seen and used muriatic acid based strippers, much more dangerous.
Paint thinner and paint stripper aren't the same substance.
I wondered if it were chlorohexane or somthing like that.
@@Mikej1592That's what they used or a derivative. I have used it and it will remove almost every coating but not all. It evaporates very rapidly at temperatures and is highly toxic to breathe the fume. Has to be used in a negative pressure booth. It breaks down Aluminum. It can cause explosion if exposed to aluminum in a sealed chamber.
My dad had a 1980 Ford Fairmont he bought used to drive to work back in the mid 80's.He flushed the engine with diesel fuel. Thing ran smooth and quiet after that.
being engine flushing with 1L diesel for over 30 years never a problem and it works great
I'm curious to see how much cleaner the next oil change looks like and what a second flush would look like. This is very interesting.
how
It looks good but my main thought is seals. That has to about be some serious hell on rubber
Interesting experiment, I wonder what that stuff will do the rubber seals in the engine. 👍
It will eat it slowly like had they left it for couple of hours then the gasket is gone
Also, certain sealing materials involved with gaskets and head bolts.
A man came in the shop, told me he had a leaky wheel cylinder. A FRIEND, probably not now, told him to put transmission fluid in his master cylinder. And now he has no brakes. He asked what it would cost to repair the brakes. After I explained the system would have to be flushed and the master and wheel cyl replaced, he wanted me to at least look at it. I took the cap off the master cylinder, and the rubber gasket came piling out from under the cap! I stuffed as much of the gasket back under cap and there was still 1" of rubber hanging out from underneath the cap, all the way around. And he just got in his car and drove away! DON'T put fluids where the do not go!!!
Probably not much worse than break cleaner.
I had the same concerns
I would like to see the bearings after the paint remover as the white metal might not act well to it
my current subaru that i have had for 5 years was totally sludged and lifter rattling when i bought it,it took 3 oil changes and 2 flushes + chemtec lifter free to finally sort out,still runs great with no rattles to this day at nearly 300,000km's
I also have an EJ201 subaru with 330,000km on the clock and going strong. All they need is regular oil changes.
Hah you use Kilometers.
@@MrTredBear Yeah, so does majority of the world lol It's actually pretty silly that the archaic imperial system is in use this far into the 21st century by the 3 or 4 countries that still use it...
The problem in the US is that DCM paint stripper was banned five years ago, so it's not so easy to come by.
I was crying seeing it used as such, since paint strippers nowadays suck!
flushing costs, paintstripper costs, i flush engines or gearbox with diesel! then you can still use it as fuel after a filter to remove metal bits
I've used Mineral Spirits on engine with clogged oil ports... coat hangered the ports... 50/50 oil and mineral spirits let idle for and hour... changed oil and filter... run it of 1000 miles and changed oil and filter again then back to normal changes after... worked well...
I am interested to see what happens to oil and valvestem seals as well as other rubber gaskets.
You could throw some old rubber seals on a table and wet them down. I'm sure it's not going to be good.
DO NOT DO THIS.. this will damage your engine seals/rings and you will begin to have oil leaks.. cool video tho
How do you know,have you done it
You can, if you are a painter, easily smell what's in it. Typically it's Benzene and Acetone. These are easy to smell even if there's other stuff in it. But it's usually combined molecules like Ethyl acetate, which is probably in alot of solvents and paint removers. Ethylbenzene is also pretty common and both smell very much like their original form.
Thanks! Been looking for a cheap Acetone for my fuel vapor project.
The good stuff has mek but I doubt that was it. Going by it flowing like water I'd say your probably right acetone.
Benzene? In what country?
@@MrBradshawbenjamin usa
The front and rear engine seals are going to leak severely in a few miles.
I’m not so sure. It may dry out the seals and disintegrate after a while. But as soon as you poor oil back in, it will re saturate the rubber seals. There are even products you can poor in the engine to get some more time out of worn seals. It softens the rubber and expands the seals, but it weakens them so they won’t las long after that.
@@invisiblekid7374 nothing fixes worn seals. Most of that stop leak seal rejuvenator is basically brake fluid. And if it's worn from high miles it's not gonna work. But it might work for an engine that's been sitting a long time and is all dried out. Even then,it's a matter of time before they leak again. Just my observation from 30+yrs of this stuff.
@@MrTheHillfolk It's not, it's just thicker oil/fluid, there's nothing really magical about it.
Pls keep us updated on the condition of the engine
I wonder what the bearing surfaces look like. Very Interesting indeed.
You should do what cleans a DPF filter!
ATF works great too for cleaning sludge out of an engine too, but you need to drive it hard for about an hour and drain it hot.
I recently heard there is almost no detergent in transmissions because there is no combustion in the transmission. It seems to me that transmission fluid is such a miracle cleaner is a old wife's tale.
You should try Floway from Kano Labs. Best degreaser I've ever used. Never tried it in an engine, though. It eats paint, dissolves asphalt, and generally wrecks anything that dares to be dirty. From what I've seen here, you probably wouldn't care about its 142°F flash point.
Great work as always
Oldfarm trick is to flush a motor with diesel. Drop oil, overfill with diesel, idle for 3minutes and dump. Wont damaged anything internally as it's under no load and diesel is very oily yet good at breaking down gunk,
yall should be on tv, reminds me of old school top gear
Yep, I remember the old-school Top Gear back in 2013-2015. Hence, why I discovered this channel in 2020. :) Also, G54 should be on TV everywhere.
As the oil filter becomes clogged, it will activate the bypass valve in the filter. If a person does a flush every other oil change.. They shouldn't really ever develop a sludged up engine. But, manufacturers of modern oil will tell you, if you change your oil regularly, you won't develop sludge, and in fact engine flushing is not necessary. Transmission fluid is a good flushing fluid, as it has lots of detergents. Some ppl use diesel, which is very aggressive to rubber seals and gaskets, and you can trade a sludge issue with the issue of a very leaky engine.
Alright, but does it damage the seals or the plastic in the sensors of more modern engines?
"Maybe I should have used a funnel"... This is the same guy that caused Chernobyl.
What if, for second flush you used 5 L Deisel for a while to clean all poison out? Gaskets and seals might not be harmed this way.
We do that. But we run it only a few minutes. When diesel gets hot it gasses to much.
I've done this with old engines and gearboxes. But what you do is fill the damn thing to the top ,and fill the cylinders too. Let it sit a few days ,pull the plugs back out and rotate it by hand and either suck the fluid out of the cylinders ,or crank the starter after you drain some of the crankcase off. The last ATV gearbox I did had that Chinese packing oil in it and barely would turn with a drill, after a soak it spins nice by hand.
I remember the old guys doing something similar with kerosene....I personally use a quart of trans fluid-feels a bit safer
Wonder how the seals and gaskets are handling it. Had an O-ring dissolve when I spilled industrial grafitti remover on it while stripping paint from a motorcycle gas tank.
i have a cylinder head reconditioning plant and I use a tank of methylene chloride to clean the parts, it is very fast to remove oil crud and carbon. Surprisingly the main ingredient in paint stripper is methylene chloride.
It would have been interesting to have had a oil pressure gauge fitted showing the oil pressure before one regular oil, then when the paint thinner installed, and once flushed what the engine pressure is on regular oil? In the UK up to the 1980's it wasn't uncommon to use paraffin mixed in 50:50 of normal oil, it was regarded as flushing oil, you could buy flushing oil over the counter too. I was confident in the action of flushing oil in the engines of those days BUT wouldn't recommend you try this in an engine after the 90's as the engine technology is a great deal more refined in tolerances, somehow I don't think anyone will be trying this in their new Audi or BMW! anyway greetings from the UK and keep the great work up, we really like the show here.
The only click bait im excited for. I'm never dissapointed
Paint a car 🚗 with ballpoint pen ink
Bruh
Transmission fluid works good.
I use about 1qt or 1 lt of diesel fuel before I change the oil and filter. LS engines get really hot and cook it on, and diesel fuel cuts it off really good.
I’ve seen people flush motors out with ATF automatic transmission fluid, and it seem to work good. If the motor is really worn out it will smoke and burn oil really bad afterwards because the carbon build up is gone
Marvelous mystery oil or transmission fluid work's great
Find the MSDS on products to see the ingredients...unless it is a proprietary material... It's interesting how many products of the same category use the same materials...but..."NEW AND IMPROVED!"...
I have used diesel mixed with motor oil to clean my toyota engine. I Would try paint remover (dont do it , it could eat your rubber seals) mixed with oil next time. When cleaning your engine its a good idea to get 2 extra oil filters so that you have a new one after you have done the cleaning job
Good but dont do paint remover.
Just as good is to put in a quart of diesel engine oil, the extra detergent will move a lot of the sludge out, and drive it for a day or two to let it move all the gunk down. Then you can drain, and run regular oil again.
@Allosaurus 67 yeah that is l One of the drawbacks. Replacing the rubber seal on the top cover isnt too hard but its worse if the seal to the clutch gets broken lol
You can make the engine by washing it with acid and after drying it flush it with petrol mixed with some clear silicon, after its dry ad clear water.
Apparently you can clean catalytic converters using 1 gallon of paint thinner to 10 gallons of gasoline. Let the engine burn through all of it at 2,500 RPM or so. Or drive it for about 200 miles. It has to get hot enough to vaporize everything that's clogging it. Paint thinner makes it run extra hot.
Cool, sending thanks from Montana USA!
I was thinking they were going to fill the sump up with only paint remover. Run the motor and see what happens. I've used diesel to flush old oil before.. It did work.
Main crank seals etc will have swollen up, probably fixing any minor seeping...but at a price of a vastly shortened life. Squirrely sellers will add acetone or similar to oil before selling to stop leaks in the short run. Cool experiment tho. Wish they'd have filled it all the way up and let it sit for a night, drain abit and then run/flush it.
i would be also concerned about what damage it may have done to the seals, gaskets, sealant, etc?
Would this crack rubber seals and eat through them though? Maybe after doing this add ATF or a softening agent to the oil to help re seal them.
that engine reminded me of a niva i owned a while back....then when the guy started it i remembered how much i liked that the key was left of the steering wheel
What did that treatment do to the seals & gaskets?
Pretty cool test. Do this a couple times and decades of gunk and sludge cleaned out.
They could try this: 1. running the engine to temperature with a fresh filter/oil up to 1 hour 2. drain the oil and replace the filter with a fresh one 3. remove engine from vehicle and mount it to a stand 4. fill engine with paint remover used in this episode 5. remove/loosen spark plugs for 0 compression, at which then 6. turn the engine by hand/drill for 1-2 hours while using a heat source to heat the engine block under normal running temperature with heat guns/blow torches. After the time is up, they could completely dismantle the engine after it cools to see the effect and any potential damage to the pistons/rings, cam shafts, cams, and other critical parts. If paint remover could effectively remove nearly all traces of sludge/oil without doing any damage to the engine and it's parts itself, then it could save people a hell of a lot of money. Even evaluating the fresh filter after the cleaning run for any metal shavings could identify a critical issue as well.
Several years ago I used synthetic oil in my 2008 GMC Sierra. It disappeared. The level was dropping and it wasn't leaking, and I really couldn't see it coming out the tailpipe. Fearing that it was gelling up and sticking in the motor; I drained the oil and filled the engine with diesel. Let it sit a few hours, then cranked the engine for somewhere around 3 to 5 minutes. (scared to go more) Drained the diesel, changed the filter. Filled with oil, ran 15 mins or so, and again replaced oil and filter. It has ran like a champ since, always using real oil, not synthetic.
love your work👍 I considered doing that with methylated spirits:)
I remember around 2003 I was using some Parts Degreaser on... I think it was the throttlebody on the 1991 Firebird (350 TPI) I had. The degreaser came in an all-metal paint can, was a name brand product but don't remember who by. Quite sure it's the same stuff that was used in a Parts Degreaser Bin (the kind that pumps this fluid through a brush). *_Anyways,_* it was certainly a learning experience!! 😳 The stuff doesn't make you gap for breath or make your eyes water, so I was just kneeling on the garage floor with the van open and scrubbing away at the gunk on the part. It had only been like, a minute maybe, and I noticed my hands.... Imagine how your hands looked when you've been in the bathtub way too long as a kid, and multiply that x2. They also starting to tingle a little. So that's when I grabbed some latex gloves and put them on, just to - now hastily - finish with what I was cleaning. About 20 seconds later and the gloves had gotten a krinkle-coating like look to them... Now I started to work even FASTER! lol After another 10 seconds, the gloves just started falling apart on my hands as I worked (big sections fell off). 😟 Oh, and that tingling turned into a burning sensation! By then, even though I hadn't completed cleaning the part, I was finished either way! Put the lid back on and went in and washed the hell out of my hands! Which at that point, since I hadn't washed them before putting the gloves on (just dried them with paper towels; dumb), they're turned more pale a color than I'd thought possible! Thankfully, I suffered no ill effects and my hands were back to normal by that night. But not have *those* details have sure stick with me! The less important stuff may not have, but thinking my skin was about to fall off any moment sure has... 😊 That was some potent-ass solvent, that's for sure, _whatever_ the fuck it was! hah _(this was all brought back from the fact the one guy was cleaning the oil pan without gloves on)_
sounds like you were using some HF or sulfuric acid based cleaner. probably meant to be diluted with water
@@Housecat333 I could be wrong, but I think most degreasers are solvents (eg: mineral spirits, petroleum distillates) and bases. From what I've recently come across, for greases a basic solution is better than an acidic solution; caustic instead of corrosive. But now I'm kinda curious, so I'll try to track down what I was using... 😁
@@Housecat333 Alright, it's *definitely* _"Berryman's Chem-Dip"_ product, no doubt about it! (their Chem Tool fuel system cleaner is the best for 80s/90s vehicles!!) Whether or not it's the same formula as today's, is up for debate, but that's what this Safety Data Sheet info applies to (I genuinely feel like it'll be less potent now), and here's the relevant details: *HEALTH HAZARDS:* Skin Irritant - Category 2 _[2 = "Moderate" severity]_ Eye Irritant - Category 2A *Component* *Weight* Water 40-55% Heterocyclic Amine Derivatives 15-20% 2-(Butoxyethoxy)ethanol 8-15% 2-Butoxyethanol 8-10% Ethoxylated Alkyl Amine 1-5% And the warning about prolonged skin contact, specifically, as it's exactly what I described! *_SHORT-TERM EXPOSURE_* . . . . . . *Skin Contact* defatting of the skin, drying and cracking of the skin, and aggravation of pre-existing skin conditions The "defatting" is the removal of fats and oils, which is what I was describing by my _"hands looking like the longest bath ever, x2"_ heh For a good visual analog: the giant Japanese water salamanders... lol _(except their skin is loose and floppy to increase surface area, allowing them to breathe underwater w/o gills; there more to it but that's the gist)_ Anyways, my suspicion is it's potentially basic (to solve degree), due to that last chemical mentioning "Alkyl"... but in the end... 🤷♂️ heh My motivation for Googling this extended as far as to me providing the info that only I knew, which was knowing what the product looked like... ☺️🥴
@Shawn 🏴☠️ Stafford No, it melted that, too! Kidding. I honestly don't remember _what_ became of my old 'Bird unfortunately. I'm _pretty sure_ the trans blew one day on my way home from work, but I'm not sure why that would've resulted in me getting rid of it... Which makes me think it was the _motor_ that went? 🤔 Yet, a motor grenading is something that would've stuck with me... So 🤷♂️ 😕 Was in great condition though. I had GTA snowflake rims and tail lights on it, to. My 93 is the spiritual successor of it though (same color red). Similarly having just about every damn option package available (as per RPO list), but TA 5-spoke rims this time since there wasn't a GTA for 4th Gens. She hangs out in the garage. 😊 (🤔 or was it the 93's trans and the 91's motor _did_ grenade.... as I *did* put a beefed up trans and with mild 2800rpm stall in my 93... gah I can't remember, we'll go with that as it seems more plausible; 91 might've been included in a package deal giveaway to a buddy of my dad's)
@Shawn 🏴☠️ Stafford Both of mine were Formulas, I just made them my Po' Boy TA lol Yea, I've... hurt my 93 in the past 😞 Whipped it around at a T intersection and whacked the curb, snapped the axel... 🥴 _BUT_ it's better now, than before! It had 3.23s and the usual clutch posi... I managed to get a brand new rearend from a '99 with 3.42s, Torsen posi _(factory after 98),_ *and* the slightly bigger rear discs (also '98+) as a bonus upgrade. 🤘 And since 93 was still OBD1, my trans wasn't electronic and I just needed a simple plastic gear (like yours) to make the speedo correct again! (whereas OBD2 would've needed an ECM flash to correct for it) But yea, definitely hold onto yours. Reason I bought my 93 was due to missing my 91! Easier to fix what's wrong, than to replace what's _gone!_ 👁️ ❤️ 🔥🐓
5:55 when the engine says *CLING* it's ready :D
Interesting experiment but what does the main bearings think of it. How does the paint thinner effect the lubricity of the oil ?
I don't think we are going to hear about it leaking oil out of every rubber seal on the poor engine. that will begin in a week or so.
@@johngillon6969 I'll ask about the fate of this particular one. The guys over at G54 are smart, it it's possible - they usually don't let good engines go to waste and at least try to preserve them for future experiments (as you will see in next Tuesday's episode).
@@SwapBlogRU but I can definitely see it damaging any non metal parts.
@@jwalster9412 yup, most plastics won't like it. Anything with timing chain guides won't be happy either.
Running at idle puts very little load on main and connecting rod bearings. I doubt that they were damaged.
I wonder if these stuff can be used to clear out any carbon build up on the piston
Hallo! In my job,we often use carb cleaner spray to clean the oil deposits,and is doing an amazing work. i wonder what will happen if you do the same like on this video,but with carb cleaner. i believe you're going to have amazing results.
Kerosene works great. It's oil based and won't hurt internal parts.
how are the crank bearings? im curious if the paint thinner washed out the bearings...
Bearings, seals.... That amount of paint thinner will chew through those with ease.
You should let a bear drive the car
Put the filter paper into a vise and sqeze out the oil makes identifying metal shavings very easy.
I'm curious to know what it did to gaskets, seals and any plastic parts that may have come in contact with it 🤔
Cool! What about sealents ans stuff?
I'm not sure of this. I'm thinking what this paint remover does to gaskets and seals. Wouldn't surprise me if the engine leaks oil after this treatment. There are products on the market here in the west specially for flushing engines out that, although not cheap, at least not that expensive to risk your engine with paint remover.
Great content Much love from Tulia Texas out on the farm
Hope the farm is doing well!
@@SwapBlogRU been really dry we lost our cotton crop this year but the last month we have been receiving better rain fall we are hopeful for a good wheat crop this coming spring Much love and respect we are praying for you guys stay safe and keep on coming up with those wild and crazy ideas
@@johnmorton7577 we'll do our best, hopefully you do alright with your harvest
Svaka cast, najjaci ste 💪
On a very dirty engine would be curious to see what three half hour runs, changing the oil filter between them would do
There's always a great adventure to be had here!
You can use atf fluid in engine oil to clean the motor and can be left till the next oil change
I left a Honda CR-V run for 7 hrs at idle with 1 qt 10W30, 1 qt Lucas Oil Stabilizer, 3 qts Dex/Merc III Automatic Transmission Fluid. Looked a lot better after.
I WOULD TAKE A HIGH PRESSURE WATER BLASTING CLEANER AND WASH THE TOP OF THE ENGINE , THEN INSIDE THE CRANKCASE BEFORE PUTTING OIL PAN AND ROCKER COVER BACK ON !
I’ve always wondered if in diesels the fuel dilution over time acted as a cleaner in the oil and help or led to the engine longevity.
I know a guy who would drain his oil and run 2 quarts of diesel through the engine before draining and refilling with new oil. The engine was noisy for sure during the "cleaning". No idea what good or bad came of it though.
If it was noisy it has sustained damage but impossible to say how much. He should mix diesel with oil for the cleaning, or not clean at all - the residues sits on secondary surfaces, not contact surfaces
try extra strength oven cleaner. it will strip anything off
Including the engine seals.
ya it flushed out the rings the bearings and the seals . sometimes that crud build up is the only thing holding things together
try to convert lada engine to boxer engine
If there was paint in there, it definitely isn't there anymore
Love your content
I'm not sure if you guy's have access to Lucas products but they are a miracle in a bottle. From their oil stabilizer, I've had 22r Toyota engines wirh 100s of thousands of miles that sounded like they were about to fly to pieces to become quiet. To a tractor trailer engine that would put a oil slick across the parking lot from blow by to suddenly stop, to their trans repair have had auto trans with funky shifts and leaks everywhere fixed from a bottle....
Follow the paint remover with a paint thinner flush to remove the softened up residue and then clean motor oil.
The old school Guy's used kerosene, or diesel fuel. Have a few extra oil filters on hand. Keep an eye on the oil pressure. Do not rev, or drive while flushing!
Me an my dad used Diesel unplugged the coil an spun it over for awhile worked really good 👍