Which Penetrating Oil is Best? Let's find out!
This test demonstrated that not all penetrating oils are equal. Also, paying more doesn't result in better performance. In this showdown, ATF/Acetone mix, AeroKroil, Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster, Royal Purple and WD-40 are put to the test. Results: Liquid Wrench came out on top, following by ATF/Acetone, Royal Purple, WD-40, PB Blaster, and AeroKroil.
Products Tested In This Video (in no particular order):
AeroKroil: amzn.to/3jaWGiJ
Liquid Wrench: amzn.to/2Z53rOC
PB Blaster: amzn.to/31igfPW
Royal Purple: amzn.to/2QfbuA6
WD-40: amzn.to/2Eh0BLY
Videography Equipment:
Sony DSC-RX10 III Cyber-shot Digital Still Camera: amzn.to/2YdXvPw
Canon 70D Camera: amzn.to/31b5Gy0
Azden Microphone: amzn.to/34d3DLE
Go Pro Bundle: amzn.to/31aince
➡ Thank you very much for supporting the channel: / projectfarm
➡ An easy way to find past videos along with products tested: bit.ly/2FCrBpk A big thanks to Jim for putting this together.
➡ Merch: www.Project-Farm.com
➡ Click here if you'd like to subscribe: / @projectfarm
➡ As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
This video is only for entertainment purposes. If you rely on the information portrayed in this video, you assume the responsibility for the results. Project Farm LLC
Thank you all for suggesting this penetrating oil showdown! Best regards, Todd AeroKroil: amzn.to/3jaWGiJ Liquid Wrench: amzn.to/32dX7Sw PB Blaster: amzn.to/31igfPW Royal Purple: amzn.to/2QfbuA6 WD-40: amzn.to/2Eh0BLY
Can you do a Best Carb Cleaner video?!
You're the best Todd no kidding. Keith Kuhn
Question: can you use a heat gun to loose bolts? You know like the torch?
In the auto repair business for 35 years , HOWES is the only pen. oil that NEVER failed , sometimes worked in minutes !! Cant find in Cali anymore .
@@sawthemin77 I just did a Google search hoses is out there. But expensive
This man still replies to comments after 2 years... that’s awesome 👍
Thanks for watching!
Either that or his script bot does :-)
@@TheMadMagician87 haha you're right.
Yeah it is. I'm sub to like 3 channels and this is one of them. This guy's content is great.
I like that too when they reply back that means a lot. He is number one in my book.
I work at a hardware store that sells a lot of the products you test. I’ve actually been referring unsure customers to your videos to help them decide what to get. Absolutely love your channel!
Thanks so much!
Here is a man that cares about his job and his customers!!
Can you do a video on the best spray paints
Doing God's work 🙏 most would just say something out their a** or say the most expensive thing
@@tauraigwishiri1794 not sure what youre trying to paint, but its mainly all about prep work... but SEM is a superior brand, $17.99+ a can
Yikes, Liquid Wrench is now $12 a can. PB Blaster is $6. Your video drove their sales and price I bet! 😂
As a hobby I restore old motorcycles, I believe in PB-BLASTER. From frozen bolts to stuck pistons in rusted cylinders. You just can't beat the penetration of this oil...
Thanks for the feedback.
This guy is either a manufacturer's worst enemy or best friend.
Thanks for watching.
Any remember when Tom's Hardware stated?
@@250txc Nostalgia
or worst friend.
The value of liquid wrench is going up as we speak
Nice job! You forgot a big piece. The control step where you put a wrench on an untreated nut, apply full strength, slip, skin knuckles, and then proceed to mumble choice profanity.
That would be Uncle Bumblewhack. (The shmoo is strong with THAT one.) steve
then kick some important part across the floor in a fit of rage and break it in the process also / kick the car, dent wing, break toes LOL
LOL! This is funny! I admit, I've lost a lot of skin over the years from busted knuckles!
That would how Uncle Bumblefuck does said test...
Ahh test blood as a Release oil!
I enjoy watching your videos for numerous reasons. I'm a mechanic & have been almost all my life & there are many methods to removing frozen or rusted hardware. ( 1 ) PB Blaster is JUNK & the product often runs out of Aresol leaving over a 1/4 remaining in the can. RESOLVE: I use a AC puncture handle & empty the remainder into a spray bottle. ( 2 ) WD40 is JUNK- Over time if you do a test, you'll find that the surface of the stuck / rusted whatever will get much worse, especially if left out in the elements. RESOLVE: Don't waste your money! ( 3 ) Gasoila - Works great but only if you have time & soak the problem repeatedly, that's with most other products. ( 4 ) FreeAll - I've used it a few times but it's VERY expensive & honestly doesn't provide a value at all. ( 5 ) Liquid Wrench - In my opinion & the millions of time I've used it is MUCH BETTER than all the other brands. As for the cost, it depends on where you can get it. I've found with most that if you have time & consistantly keep soaking it that almost any product is better than none. The conditions & temperatures & exposure all play a part in the demise as well. EXCELLENT CONTENT in your channel & like your content providing answers to those whom wish to learn & gain knowledge! THAN YOU SIR 🙂
Thanks and you are welcome!
I've been in aviation maintenance for over 20 years and 100% hands down prefer Kroil to just about anything. I'm a little shocked to see it perform poorly on this test. It's amazing on dissimilar metal corrosion and heat stressed titanium, which are often found in aviation. It also smells great! Thanks for your videos. I found your channel a few weeks ago and have already purchased a few products based on your testing. I am not disappointed!
You are welcome! Thanks for sharing.
I'm the opposite. Kroil just REEKS to me and I can't stand it. I was given a can and have only tried it 3 times on frozen nuts/bolts, but it didn't seem to do much of anything to help. My trial results matched Todd's here.
Jeff is that you? Anyway, my buddy Jeff works in aviation maintenance also. He works on propellers and after just visiting him this past weekend, I saw a can of Aerokroil in his garage, and he swore by it.
How have you found it to work in the cold? I’m interested in using it on my shotgun while cold weather hunting, water and cold temps will lock ya up solid
I work in instrumentation, Kroil is the go to when you have to remove a long rusted RTD stuck in a thermowell on a steam generator at 325°C.
"Results: Liquid Wrench came out on top, following by ATF/Acetone, Royal Purple, WD-40, PB Blaster, and AeroKroil." Thank you very much for typing that in the description!
Glad to see the inexpensive product kick butt. My brother in law is a huge PB fan. Hahahahaha
I use Rust Mustard
,I've used liquid wrench apply to any chain , wd, 40, specialist, white , lithium ,are. The best.
Results: Heat worked a little, followed by Liquid Wrench. The others did nothing because they were all about the same as dry. Then we soaked the nuts in vinegar for an hour and they came off by hand with no wrench at all.
@@hyzercreek This is doubtful.. if you listened @:56 in the video you would recall he torqued them too 100flbs. Now maybe your Steve Austin, the Bionic man, but it's doubtful. Please provide a video showing this..lol
I hope you never get tired of doing these tests. As someone with both limited knowledge and funds. It's easy to be lured to buy the "best" (Most expensive) . I'll take function over form every time. Your channel helps.
Thank you very much!!
@@ProjectFarm same with me. Thank you for doing this and all the other videos. sub'd
I agree. "Truth is where you find it!" I guess I'll park my Kroil and replenish my supply of Liquid Wrench next trip to the auto parts store!
Most of you guys are living in the west with all brands you can think of. For other people living in a third world country we are lucky when we get WD40. It is fun to watch these tests but far from reality here I am in Uganda.
@@happyjohn8256 I am from Norway but have been living in Africa for 18 years. WD-40 is available in cities but by experience we have been using break fluid or diesel for penetrating rusted nuts and bolts. Propane or oxy-acetylene for heating is only available in the cities.
Here I was using Liquid Wrench all this time because it was cheap, and was considering the 50/50 mix... Nice to see LW placed so well, I'll be sticking with it (wasn't thrilled about playing with acetone). Thanks for what you do, subscribed!
You are welcome! Thanks for watching and subscribing!
Liquid Wrench has always been king. Was the first one I ever used and tried PB Blaster...No comparison.
Excellent video....as always. Thank you. I used to use WD 40, then Liquid Wrench, then ordinary gun oil/cleaner. Honestly, none of these things seemed to work for me. Finally, while I was in a small engine repair shop one of the mechanics told me about PB Blaster....he said it was the best he had found. So, I immediately went and bought some PB Blaster, took it home, and applied it to the stuck bolt in the aluminum trans case of by pos John Deere riding mower. After an hour I tried to loosen the stuck bolt....nothing. I sprayed again, waited another hour....nothing. Finally, I gave up, sprayed the stuck bolt again, and let it sit over night. So, the next day, just before I was going to light the fuse to the stick of dynamite I had waiting for the JD, I decided to try to loosen the stuck bolt one final time. Amazingly, as soon as I put the socket to the bolt, it simply turned....and was loose. The clouds parted, a bright beam of sunlight shone down, and the nearly departed pos John Deere mower had "new life"....and a new name...."Lazarus". So, I have been using PB Blaster all these years since then and, of the products I have tried, I highly recommend the PB Blaster over any others I have used
Thanks and you are welcome! Thanks for sharing.
It's a miracle (cue Holy Grail horse reference....). Glad it finally came loose for you!
Keep in mind he's testing these products on short-term surface rust. It's going to be a different story on years old, very rusty fasteners you'd find under a vehicle. The fact is sometimes a torch is the only solution and that's why I always have one on hand.
it can't be stuck if it's liquid
I'm up in the salt belt of upstate NY. If I have time, I like to torch first and then hit it with penetrant. Seems like the heat opens it up and allows the penetrant in more, always had good luck using both.
He does mention heat at the end of the video.
Kroil works better with heat: heating parts and dousing with Kroil seems to smoke less than doing the same with PB Blaster, too. FWIW, I also ran a PC fan with only RP Synfilm on the shaft (no grease) for nearly two years before it finally seized. I'd say it has great lubricant properties. I've also used it to lubricate turntable parts, too. The dropper bottle comes in quite handy for finer applications like that.
You mean in your hand ? 😂
3 years later and your video is still helping people find products that actually work. Thanks!
You are welcome!
Not only that, but people like me watch it and 3 years later come back and watch it again.
@@ProjectFarm 4 years later and still helping people!
Also, worth mentioning is to heat the nut and not the bolt. The idea being that the circumference of the nut will increase and separate from the bolt and break the 'seal' formed by the rust/etc. Yes, the bolt will get hot and expand as well, so if you've never done it before, heat the nut for a bit and then try to remove it. Lather, rinse, repeat.
And if something really truly stuck you can go the ole heat-water-heat-water-rinse repeat until desired result is achieved
I wouldn't contradict your experience that it works better as im not a mechanic, but the explanation confuses me. When you heat a metal, for example a nut, it expands in all directions, ie. it increases in volume. So the outside dimension increases in "radius" and the inside shrinks in radius. When the bolt gets hot it just gets bigger. The final effect is that the brittle rust gets squished between the surfaces and breaks its adhesion to the metal loosening the bolt after it cools again and all the surfaces shrink again. Does that make sense? Or do I have it wrong?
@@cnf6045 Exactly! Thermal shock is better than heating the nut and trying to remove it hot.
String Larson - That's exactly what I was always taught, BUT just recently I was attempting to remove a pitman arm and heated the nut for about a half hour and couldn't get the impact wrench to budge it. I then said #! and heated the arm itself for about 5 min and was able to break the nut in 5 seconds. Counter intutive I know BUT DAMN!
@@clutions Yeah, once the 'rust' essentially, fuses the parts, to a point where the heat applied will transfer from the nut to the bolt at the same rate as thru the clean nut. it can get/does get pointless. Time to rebuild from new. The other thing to consider is that the strength of a say steel rod/bar/etc. degrades exponentially depending on the integrity of the initial material. As a simple example (and if I recall correctly) a 1/2 inch rod with 1/16 inch off corrosion will have a non-linear reduction in "strength" (shear, tension, torsion, etc.) This is important for many reasons not least of which is if one has a torque rating on a bolt and wants to mount a new nut, or of that works, whether or not that bolt/nut will hold up under required conditions. etc. etc. etc. etc
Guess I missed this one. This is THE go-to channel for honest reviews on KZhead. Be proud of that. Millions of people, random strangers trust you.
Thanks!
Hats off to your channel for no click-bait
Thank you! Some great advice I received a while back is as follows: If one creates deceiving titles, how can one trust the content of the channel. Seems like great advice!
My dad would always get the Liquid wrench from the auto parts store and tell me "aaaahhh its good enough" turns out it was very good and better off.
Thanks for sharing.
It didn't work at all for me 🤷♂️
Copy Imitation it’s possible no penetrating products would do the job 4 u. I’ve had times when heat was the solution 4 me after trying penetrants unsuccessfully. Have a nice day
@@kennithmorella2693 a 50/50 mixture of acetone and ATF did the job almost instantly.. The rust started to liquefy and melt off. I sprayed the liquid wrench on the bolts multiple times, And not once did i see any rust start to liquefy.
@@c0pyimitati0n I will have to do a test with evaporust and see if it works on stuck bolts and nuts. Cheers
Man I really appreciate you putting in the time and effort to do these videos. Very helpful!
Thanks! Glad to hear!
I've watched this video a few times over the years, but can never remember which to get. I came back morning to make I linked from your video. Keep up the awesome work.
Thanks, will do!
It's really satisfying to see how consistent you got that rust. It's almost beautiful!
Thank you!
I am literally watching this while standing in the hardware store looking at the penetrating oils.... Full volume on my phone and giving you a thumbs up! 👍👍👍👍👍
Imagine someone comes up "can I help you find anything?"........ "Nah, I'm good, I'm watching the only truth teller #ProjectFarm
And I just did the same lmfao
yeah but dont be an asshole turn the volume down or use headphones lol
@@MattB90 lmao true though
Haha I’ve done similar
Only 4 years after the posting and I watch this video, but really entertaining. I just wanted to share that a product I've been using for years and love over anything else I can think of is called Tri-Flow. It comes in a black and orange can and when you shake it there's a mixing ball inside the can similar to what you'd hear when shaking a spray paint can. Thanks for all the hard work you do Project Farm!
Thanks for sharing.
I just keep coming back to different Project Farm videos lately! thank you for all the hard work!
You are welcome! Thanks for watching!
Highly underrated KZhead channel. Thank you for your content and time the time taken to make them.
Thank you!
Project Farm no thank you!
I love watching his experiments he does a awesome job better than tv
Underated? With over 800 thousand subscribers and everyone loving this channel! What the hell are you talking about?
@@carlrest6553 1.76 million now!
When I first started as a mechanic an old greybeard told me to use brake fluid. The best by far. Please like so it can be put to a true test!
Thank you for this recommendation!
If you step back and think about it, that makes a lot of sense. In past experiences if left alone brake fluid will eat it's way through almost anything if left untouched. I've seen it eat paint off the firewall of an $80,000 hotrod because the owner didn't know it was leaking and couldn't see it until the motor was removed for refresh.
Well if it works so well , then why are rusty brake line so hard to get apart?.......😁😁
I was shocked to see how the KANO finished in your test. Because I can say without a doubt, Kano has saved the day when NOTHING ELSE would help. But then Again, I wasn’t always dealing with a simple rusted nut/thread. It would just climb into everything . From heavily cooked on carbon coated or aged/hardened grease, and other unknown thread locking substances. But then I’m still using Kano from the 50 gallon drum my dad rolled home with back in 1984!! I bet these days there may possibly be a different ingredient or two to make it epa friendly. I like your videos! Great work!
Yes, brake fluid works well!
You are totally awesome . I can’t find something better to say other than “may God reward you and guide your heart”
*glances at my can of WD-40 judgingly
lol.
Lmao
Don't knock it man, girls like the smell of WD-40.
@@jimtekkit and hoppes #9 😉
Honestly it was invented as a cleaning and water dispersing agent.
Try two old tricks I was shown 35 years ago by a old timer(60+). 1)Shock(hammer) the plate or parts next to the bolt. Use brass/lead hammer or pad it with a peace of soft wood. 2 or 3 good firm stikes. Works great, no chemicals spills to remove. 2) Tighten the bolt slightly. 1/8 turn or so. It breaks the rust and does not start the removal of the bolt with pushing the rust into the threads. I use these so often a young guy at work thinks I can't hammer and forget the direction to turn the bolts. I love removing bolt he gave up on, right in front of him. I have shown him and explained the theory behind them.
Great tips!
This makes a lot of sense.
at work we do both of these before either using acetone, wd-40 or kroil. knock it a bit with a hammer, turn it more a bit, apply oil, turn it back, apply more oil, let it sit for a minute, if it dont come out in 30 minutes sit it over night. after watching these videos im gonna go buy some liquid wrench or that sea foam.
I've done this, learned it from Grandpa.
Yep, my dad used a big brass hammer, torch, and WD-40 to loosen up salty and corroded parts. I think he might have shown me the tighten slighty thing too, I can't recall though.
He's come such a long way. Love seeing the progress in techniques and ideas Awesome channel and thank you for existing and waking up every morning 🌄
Thanks and you are welcome!
Awesome presentation and review of these products you are the absolute best at these types of products reviews. You show no actual bias and only tell the outcome of your tests and they are done super professionally. And your English is spoken clearly and understandable and you only use words that the average layman can understand. No big fancy words that are not understandable. Thank you for your awesome presentations and hard work.
Thank so much!
Also, he has the intelligence to be able to express himself without swearing or using vulgarities. So refreshing! It's nice to be able to refer my grandchildren to this channel without worrying about what they'll hear.
I was thinking use a torch. Then You did. That made this video 100x better.
Thank you!
I'm a Kroil guy, and I think I just bought my last can. Thanks for the great video.
Thank you! I wish Kroil would have done better. I don't mind spending more, but need the performance to match the price tag.
I was thinking the same thing. Ive used and recommended Kroil for years. Now I feel like ive just wasted mine and my friend's money for years
I'm in the same boat. Have half a gallon of Silikroil left, so I got a couple more years before I can justify buying something else though. At least when I do my wife will finally stop complaining about the smell in the garage from when I use it.
Mat D half a gallon? fuck why did you buy that much.
carolyn mmitchell It was $50 plus slipping.
You deserve every single like and subscribe you get. Definitely in the top 5 of my favourite channels on KZhead.
Dear PF, I have a couple of things to say. First, you are doing well with your videos and performance progression. Your voice has more energy in it in newer videos. Good on you, sir. Second, I saw that you had replied to a comment from a few months ago. I've never heard of a KZheadr doing that, let alone seen it. Thank you for your dedication. PSA over. Keep up the good work!
Thanks, will do!
If I was a billionaire, you'd have your multi-million dollar lab for sure. Thanks for the video.
Thank you!
Rick Simpson I believe he'd stay true to himself. ✌
Okay Tim... Let's scale that commitment down to you being a hundredaire with you supporting him on Patreon for a couple bucks a month instead.
Great video
If I was a billionaire I wouldn't care what oil freed my nuts.
I was surprised at the results. Last week I spent 7 hours on a stuck bell housing bolt. I used every tool I have including torch and impact. I was at a loss so I sprayed PB Blaster (recommended by a friend) and went to bed. In the morning the bolt was finger loose! Crazy. I’m now a firm believer in PB Blaster but I’m going to try Liquid Wrench now too. Great video sir!
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
I work on vintage sewing machines that are 50 to 100 years old and I fine that Kroil and heat work the best to free seized small nuts and screws. WD40 and Liquid Wrench were better than nothing but least effective. PB Blaster was more effective, but my go to penetration is Kroil.
Great test. If you do this again, I would love to see if any of these actually penetrate the threads. After breaking the torque off, you could remove the nut and see if the oils went down into the threads.
Being a master automotive technician I also have utilized all the products you did minus the acetone and transmission fluid mixture. From day to day 35 year hands-on experience I came up with the same conclusion that you did. It was an interesting show down to say the least. Thank you.
John, just wondering.. How many times in those 35 years did you intentionally go through 3 one hour application processes waiting for it to work?
Jay Audette if I was working from home, several applications over several hours was common. If it was in work and time is money, almost never.
@@johnjohannemann536 Yup. That's when heat enters the picture.
Heat is mostly the best option for rusted nuts/bolts. I think he would have had even better result from heating up the nuts a little more.
Thanks for the testing and the work you put into these videos. Great intel for the DIY'er and professionals alike.
Thanks and you are welcome!
This guy is great!!! I love listening to his stuff, especially on the stuff I havened bought yet!!!
Thanks!
This guy is better than Consumer Report! He owes no one and gives the best unbiased findings! Glad I subscribed! You should too!
Thanks for watching and subscribing!
Consumer reports is garbage. Project farm is on a whole different scale.
As a former millwright there is one tried and true that you did not use, the hammer! The old adage of it that don’t work get a bigger hammer (there is a modicum of truth to that). If you whack on a rusted up bolt or nut a few times you will always loosen it up a bit! That’s why impacts work soo well! You came up with the same results as old uncle bumblefuck did! AVE!!!
Yes, the hammer works wonders! Thank you!
Hit with a hammer if it doesn't move use a bigger hammer if it breaks it wasn't built right!
If it won't fit, force it. If it breaks, it was defective.
@Joshua Carnine - As a current ignoramus, who doesn't understand the value of knowledge, experience, and wisdom, I belittle anyone who does.
Project farm: yes very true, if you read my other comment on here you will see I never mention the hammer method, but yes in some applications just the good old beat the tar out of it a bit can work wonders, also if you hold one hammer on the back side of the stuborn nut as an anvil then smack the other side of the nut with a different hammer sometimes is even more effective yet (transmits more of the force and vibrations directly into the nut so it would seem), or another trick is to concentrate the hammers force by using a metal cutting chisle to really concentrate the force of the hammer in a very small area on the side of the nut, this will cause the nut to be mechanically expanded ever so slightly and many times be rather easy to remove after doing so, you just need to not mess up the fastener to the point where a wrench will no longer fit it, anyhow good luck on those stuborn fastners my friend lol.
That was a simple, thorough and easy-to-follow video. Awesome! And very helpful. Thanks for sharing the knowledge.
You are welcome!
Thank you for all your testing and excellent reviews. I immensely enjoy your videos and recommendations. Being a retired merchant marine engineer, we have had plenty of exposure with rusty fasteners on sea going ships. One of the major enemies to seafaring ships are salt water and sea spray. At one time or another we have used all the penetrants you have tested in your video (except the home brew). The top two we found to be most successful was the Kroil and the PB Blaster. The Kroil we would get in one gallon cans the PB Blaster in 5 gallon cans. The most unique thing we found with Kroil and PB Blaster was its effectiveness was almost immediately where as for the others they required a soak time.
Thanks and you are welcome! Thanks for the feedback.
I've used liquid wrench since I was a child in the early 1950's. My dad was an auto mechanic, and I still remember an old can of liquid wrench in a cabinet in the garage. I guess the smell of that product is what takes me back to my childhood! It's not a bad smell, but it is distinctively liquid wrench. I stopped into Tractor supply today to get some liquid wrench. They had three kinds of liquid wrench, but they were out of the "ORIGINAL liquid wrench. I guess everyone in Dripping Springs Texas watched this KZhead video!!
Thanks for sharing.
I was born around the same time as you and Liquid Wrench is all I’ve used and always got good results. I prefer the squeeze can because you can put it right on the bolt instead of spraying half a can into the atmosphere. The squeeze can lasts a lot longer. Did any of these other products even exist then?
I used to know a John Gregory from Dripping Springs
I love PB Blaster because you can shoot it across the driveway and lube that nut under your truck before you crawl under there to wrestle with it. Also helpful when defending yourself against the wasp nest you discover once you get underneath there.
lol. Yes, it does indeed have a lot of "blast".
I have always been a huge fan of PB but I felt this was a well done, honest comparison video. I just watched part 2 as well. Excellent job, thanks for posting these. I will still keep good old PB on hand but would also consider Liquid Wrench in the future based on this video. I keep WD40 around for indoor stuff where I dont want to a big mess blasting it with PB.
@@trailblogger PB blaster is crap. Everybody around here uses it and I just laugh at them. It stinks to high hell and barely does anything. Try ZEP45. It's expensive but definitely worth it.
@@deeznutz2646 I agree about PB Blaster. It's absolutely useless. I didn't bother finishing the video but after 30 years experience turning wrenches... The absolute BEST penetrating oil made is AC rust penatrant #88862628. You can buy it for $13 at any GM dealer. I've tried every brand out there including 50/50 ATF & acetone. ZEP & Aerokroil are ok but the AC lube is the only thing that truly works. Closest second is industrial liquid wrench.
@@stevemccauley5734 Well, let's get PF to test it.
Interesting. Over the past 50 plus years I've used most of those at one time or another plus Marvel Mystery Oil which has perfomed well on steel to steel applications but for freeing up disimilar metals I've had the best results from Kroil by far. Years ago I had a steel fitting that was seized in a very rare aluminum intake manifold and had about given up hope of getting it out. I ahd tried PB Blaster, WD-40, MMO, etc. with no luck. I took it to my buddy's repair shop , he walked over to his tool box and came back with this beat up old can and sprayed around the fitting. He then went to the fridge and came back with 2 beers and told me to have a seat. We finished the beers and he got up and clamped the fitting in the vice and told me to pull on the manifold, there was a split second of resistance and then it broke free and came right out. That was my introduction to Kroil, i bught my own can that same day and have kept it on hand ever since.
I keep almost all of these around. I've found that none of them seem to be a one size fits all solution. I also like Permetex Liquid Penetrant. When I have a nut that won't break loose after a quick spritz of PB Blaster (the cheapest these days), I pull out the rest and start spraying away.
Thank you for your diligence in the testing you do on any of your comparisons, I watch them all. In the 40 something years that I've been working on rusted things I can say I've never been overly impressed with any of these products except maybe Castle Thrust but in the end you can't beat the fire wrench.
You are welcome! Thanks for the feedback.
Castle 'Thrust' is the best in my experience, when I can find it. I use it for a regular light weight lubricant on things like bike chains and derailleurs, car door hinges, etc. as well as a penetrating oil for stuck/rusty bolts it is a great product..better than 'Liquid Wrench' in my opinion. PB 'Blaster' is my second choice when I can't find Castle Thrust.
projext farm i aint even in to this sort of stuff but im addicted i love how you talk to your viewers you explain to a point where you don't dumb it down or over complicate it your a legend :D
Thank you
Absolutely, that is so important to keep it simple and we the viewers appreciate involving hands-on usage too. Well said !!
I've always been a fan of Liquid Wrench (or fire wrench when you can), and was happy to see it do well. One thing you could add is that tapping on the nut or bolt after you've applied the penetrating oil makes a helpful difference most of the time. Thanks for the video. *:D*
Great point! I should have mentioned this.
yes I was going to say the same thing, tapping on the nut/bolt, liquid wrench used to have that printed on the can. Only thing else I want to say is I use wd-40 on spark plug threads and have never had a spark plug seize in a head
you should also try adding penetrating oil on heated bolt, works so much better :)
I found a real excellent way to use liquid wrench on both oxygen sensors and exhaust bolts. First drive the car and get it hot. Next, spray the bolt, nut or sensor with Liquid Wrench. It generally smokes a bit. Let the car sit for 15 minutes. Spray again, let sit for another 15 minutes, spray again and let sit for about an hour. Now try to remove the nuts and bolts and they will generally come off. I was amazed at how much easier exhaust bolts and especially oxygen sensors were to remove when doing this. Yea, it takes a couple hours of prep with Liquid Wrench, but it has proven to be worth the effort and wait several times for me.
One thing I know about Liquid Wrench is never use it on door latches or window regulators. I lubricated my door latches over a year ago and the Terrible smell is still in my car like I did it yesterday. Liquid ranch is OK for engines or exhaust where is the smell doesn’t matter
Blue tipped wrench always wins! Sometimes confined spaces should prevent using. I’ve been having good luck with Sea Foam’s Deep Creep.
Great feedback. Thank you
My man you’re awesome the charts and everything. Exactly what I was looking for.
Thanks so much!
I’ve used almost all of them and over the years and different applications the PB blaster works the best to be honest.
Thanks for sharing.
Most importantly it smells like root beer
Have you used Liquid Wrench ?
@@martys4x457 maybe i just have a weird sense of smell but I think it smells like root beer Lol
I agree on the PB Blaster. I use it all the time. I restore old cars for a living, so I've encountered many rusted fasteners. PB Blaster is the only one that I can see actually dissolving the rust when applied. Wire brushing the fastener before applying any penetrant will help. Kroil worked well for me in freeing up a rusted stuck engine. Poured Kroil in the cylinders and let it sit a couple days. I think Blaster would work well for that too, and I am going to try it in another old engine in a few months. The other products have not been useful for old, rusted fasteners for me. I keep some WD40 around for light lubrication use, but it's not useful for serious rust.
Thanks for another great objective product testing. As an engineer, I can appreciate your scientific and non-biased methodology. Keep these videos coming.
Thanks, will do!
What field of engineering are you in? Some of PF's tests have merit, but this one is too small to be significant. Just look at the variance within each product.
@@DouglasGross6022 I have degrees in civil and environmental engineering and PE license. For a one man shop I think he's doing a great job and trying to be as objective as possible.
@@terranempire725 Agreed.
How can you tell if someone is an engineer? He'll tell you!
I absolutely love how you seem to think of EVERYTHING when doing these tests, such as putting the nuts on the studs with the beveled edge down and covering the bolts not being treated as each new set was being treated. GREAT WORK!
Thank you
I agree, he does _great_ work.
The best advice I have for using any penetrating oil, is to use it liberally over the course of several days. If you don’t have several days, heat is your best friend.
Thanks for the feedback.
Thank you for the video. Did not realize it was an oldie, but certainly a goodie. Appreciate it, I am going to pick up some liquid wrench. You solved my which one do I choose dilemma. all the best, Dono
You are welcome! Glad to hear!
I would be interested to see these same products used as a rust preventative. take new nuts and bolts soaked in the different Pen-oils the put them in an environment which would normally cause them to rust.
Thank you for this recommendation!
Project Farm You’re welcome. I really enjoy your videos.
That is a great idea!
my mate paint stipped a panel 3 years ago. I put wd 40 on it then. 3 years latter still no rust and has an oily film. (is inside the shed)
Someone on a gun forum did that. Used a salt bath. WD40 was kick ass in that test.
Thanks for including results in the video description! I've watched many of your videos to know I can trust your results, this time I was in a hurry and appreciate it!!!
Thank you!
Thanks again. I always know where to look when I’m looking for the best product!
You are welcome!
Great video as always. Heat has always been my go to but I've got a rusted on plastic thermostat housing and heat would destroy the part so I need an alternative due to the context of this specific application. Never would have guessed liquid wrench is the winner. Thanks for your great work!
You are welcome!
That was a great test, I have never seen a big difference in all of the products I have tried in the past 50 years. Thanks
This was really interesting for me. I grew up on a dairy farm and we always had Liquid Wrench around. I was pleasantly surprised to see that it did so well. Great channel. Thank you
Thank you!
In NJ liquid wrench was the official state penetrant
I'm in my 60's, and my dad was using Liquid Wrench when I was a little kid, so it has been around a long time. I have used other stuff over the years, but never found anything that work as well - and so consistently, as the original Liquid Wrench.
I FOUND IT! This is the first video I ever watched by you, but it's not the one I subscribed on. Now we're looking for that.
Thanks for sharing.
This is your best video that I have viewed, you seem so much calmer and personable. I would guess it’s mostly editing as you have to cut down the video so it’s not to long. Regardless very good, enough that I noticed and commented. Thank you for your work, much appreciated. BTW my wife likes the videos too, so informative.
Thanks and you are welcome!
I am always impressed by your thoroughness, and your attention to details in the testing processes. You may not be a scientist, but you sure think like one.
Thanks for watching!
I'm surprised the PB blaster didn't do better. Glad to know I'm not missing out on anything by not buying into the Kroil craze.
Thank you for commenting!
Joseph Marciniak I've only ever used Kroil because that's just what my shop buys but this was eye opening. I showed this to my boss and now we are going to try Liquid Wrench. We rebuild antenna tilt machines on navy ships, so there are DEFINITELY some nasty bolts that I have to deal with.
a lot of people just fanboy the most expensive and preach it
my money was on PB as well, but then that's why I watch the video.
BlowDiamond I'm a mechanic in Pennsylvania and I've been using PB Blaster for years. If I can find Liquid Wrench locally, I'll certainly give it a shot. The salt they throw on the roads really corrodes things. Its damn near impossible to work on older cars here without a torch.
Mahalo from Hawaii. Appreciate your focus to do these test’s right
Thanks!
Best product review video on the internet. Well done, sir.
Thans!
You broke my heart man. I've been using pb blaster for years haha another great video. At least pb blaster is great at killing wasps
Thank you
Hah, I didn't know it was good at wasp killing, I'll have to remember that next time I cant find the wasp killer and find myself grabbing random solvents from the shelf to fight one. LOL
Brake Cleaner is the best for wasp.
i use WD to kill bees nests ;) works like a charm...
@@edwinthomas618 it also has less cleanup
I am grateful to have stumbled on your videos. I subscribed which is unheard of for me. Your testing is thorough and I love that you aren’t sponsored. I have a hobby farm and you test the products I use everyday. Thank you!
You are welcome! Thanks for watching and subscribing!
For 20 years, I've listened to fellow Jeepers argue whether PB Blaster was better than Liquid Wrench. I always leaned towards PB, but this changes my mind. Thanks for all of your videos, you do a great job with them!
Thanks and you are welcome! Thanks for the feedback.
This is probably the best product review channel on the internet. I refer many people that are looking to buy products to your channel - let the data speak for itself. WRT the penetrating fluids, I have used Liquid Wrench, Kroil, Sea Foam and PB Blaster - none of them work. Heat, when I can use it, is my best friend. Because of a dry rotted tire, I recently had to remove a wheel on one of my trailers and the nuts were rusted. The wheels hadn't been removed in 30 years. I tried all of my leftover cans of penetrating fluids and none of them worked. I applied them to the lug nuts every day for one week and still had to use a breaker bar. Upon inspection, I observed that the fluid did not penetrate past the first thread or two. I have several cans of chemicals if someone wants to stop by and pick them up!
Thanks! Thanks for sharing the channel!
One parameter you didn't consider in your test protocol was the 'country of origin' of the steel used for the studs and lug nuts. The trace elements in iron ore mined from around the globe varies, along with the "mix" of other elements (like carbon, molybdenum, & chromium) that are added during production of the steel will vary in different countries; as with German Steel, and Soligen Steel most notably. I started "wrenching" in the 1960's and retired in the late 90's. For many years I was using Liquid Wrench, but when I got into specializing in Japanese-origin cars in my own shop I found that Liquid Wrench didn't work as with Domestic cars for freeing up rusted fasteners. And that was backed up by the difference in using an oxy/ace cutting torch to "blow off" rusted exhaust nuts while being able to not damage an exhaust manifold or the stud with cars built in different countries. Yeah, I always seemed to get the cars where fastener's had been rounded off with a worn out or cheap socket during a prior repair or were rusted so badly that the correct size socket was very loose fitting, and the best tool was a torch used by someone who knew what the hell they were doing and to just melt it off. I saw the difference in the color of the flame when melting off the nuts on cars made in various countries. Oh yeah, I live in a rust-belt state where road salt took its toll on everything that didn't retain paint for long or got too hot to hold paint like exhaust systems pre-stainless steel exhaust systems that needed to be replaced every 2 to 4 years almost like clock-work from the cat back. And before cats, the whole system was usually installed rather then the client saying "but you just fixed my exhaust system 6 months ago" when only the rear was done and now the headpipe was making noise. I did the whole system and saved the labor costs for 2 partial repairs. Bottom line - I found that WD-40 worked best with Toyota, Nissan, and other Asian-origin vehicles. And at my local shop owners trade organization meetings I found that the European-car specialists swore by PB-Blaster as being the best. Tried PB-Blaster in a few VW's and Fiat's that I got 'roped into' working on by regular Toyota-owner clients of mine for their 2nd car or 'kids car' and found that to be the best for those brands. Worked on few domestic cars (too large for my small bays) once I opened my own shop in 1975, but I stuck with Liquid Wrench on those; neither PB-Blaster nor WD-40 worked as good. Bottom line, there is no 'best to use' across the board. The metallurgy involved with the steel presents a variable which involves the origin of the fasteners. So, in this day and age a technician almost needs to view the VIN to determine the country of assembly and hope or assume that the fasteners installed at the factory were sourced locally in that country. Call it a SWAG - Scientific Wild Assed Guess to determine what might work best for each vehicle that rolls thru the door. Just discovered your channel. I commend you for taking the time to actually test the various and look forward to the 2nd video.
Great tip, thank you! I just bought a Toyota RAV4 and usually use PB for my old Ford tractor, but will try WD40 for my RAV.
Interesting observation and dearly thanks for sharing it. Also totally agree that there is no such a thing as "One size fit all".
Heat with a propane or mapp torch for appx. 30 secs. Then apply penetrating oil. The heat sucks it in instantly. I bent a breaker bar recently trying to remove rusted bolts under my truck. Heated then sprayed and VIOLA, nuts came off fairly easy with a little effort. I was very impressed. But be careful working above you when you spray the penetrant onto the heated metal it drips hot oil on you. So position yourself to the side.
Great point. Thank you
It's written: VOILA! Viola is a girl's name or musical instrument.
No, it just evaporates the volatile contents of the penetrant. (EVOC) The heat loosened up the bolt more than the penetrant did . Heat expands allowing the oil to get in. But you don't always have the option of using an open flame. like a hanger strap on a gas tank or brake line near the same. Just FYI
@@agr8dane1 I've never got a heavily rusted object loose with a propane torch alone. Just FYI
@@agr8dane1 you can with a hotter torch. But what I said was the heat allowed the oil to get in due to heat expansion. Ever put a ring gear on a flywheel? You're not wrong just explaining.
Been using the homemade stuff for years, Good stuff. Lov your channel Gramps
Thanks!
Thank you for comparing these products with such great detail.
You are welcome!
I’m a little shocked on the results. I’ve always been happy with PB blaster but looks like I’m going to give liquid wrench a try. Awesome videos!
Thank you! Thanks for sharing.
I was thinking the very same thing.. Especially at that price! Only downside is not as easy to find.
I am following a couple of big youtubers that strongly recommend PB over WD40. Guess they are sponsored.
@@helgedell PB blaster and WD40 both have their purposes and different scenarios. However I’m sure most on this channel have both in their garage. Both are winning and WD40 been around forever.
@Hard Core Also might go up in price a bit due to the Project Farm Effect. -....oh wait this is a 4 year old video-
2 year old video and still replying to comments. That’s dedication to your subscribers. You’re doing an amazing job and definitely deserve more recognition. I’m still working my way down your video list as I recently found your page about a week ago. Wish I would’ve discovered your page sooner! Keep up the fantastic work!
Thanks so much!
Brilliant video very entertaining and very informative you have saved me quite a bit of over the past, carry on doing all these tests cheers 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks, will do!
A great demonstration and food for thought. It is good to know, even with these products, high price alone does not guarantee a easy break.
Thanks!
Hey that was excellent and fair. I've learned that you really try hard and succeed to be equal to all the products. I appreciate and trust your efforts. Great Job and I'm going to use your recommendations!!
Thank you!
You definitely deserve to be prideful of your videos Bud. Not only is everything that you're saying very interesting, but your videos are also very informative to consumers that are laymen when it comes to the knowledge that you present. Keep up the good work. I'm glad I found your videos.
Thanks, will do!
Every test this gentleman has ever done is very informative. Thank you sir!
Thanks and you are welcome!
Wow! Useful info we can use. Keep up the great content. Thanks 🙏.
I’ve been using liquid wrench since watching these videos and it works well. I am just sick of the smell so I might test out some of the other options
Sea foam deep Creep smells like coconuts. Works well for me.
What does it smell like?
PB Blaster stinks too!
Kroil almost smells like Pine Sol or a cleaning solution. You’ll actually not be bothered by the smell and results for me are opposite of what’s shown here. Kroil is my he’s y hitter when WD40 and PB blaster just aren’t cutting it. Kroil had worked wonders
@@patrickmcwilliams3957 PB stinks so bad that it is wholly intolerable to me. And the smell gets on you so you stink like it does all day long. Not worth it for a mediocre penetrant.
I just found your videos. This is really helpful to me cause I’m going to let you buy all the products then I’m going to buy the one that worked the best. Thanks and have a great day.
Man you are the most Honest farmer I have ever known!
Thanks for the nice comment! Thanks for watching.
Thank you Project Farm! Love the home brew, would love a revisit of this topic or of other home brew/diy solutions with funds being tighter these days
Thanks for the suggestion.
Great test, I was a little surprised of some of the results. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the feedback.
Great video! I’m looking to tackle a frozen stud and was hoping you’d explored this category. Your efforts are a blessing to us DIY-ers!
Thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.
This channel should be a TV show. Another winner!
Thank you!
I agree!!!
Totally agree! Unfortunately, snake oil type companies hate TV shows that call out their substandard products.
I have used the second place for a long time. We put it in a 4 cylinder engine that was frozen. 3 days of letting it soak the engine turned over. I enjoyed your show. Thank You
Thanks and you are welcome!
I had a central heating boiler with a water pipe union that screwed into the cast iron, (read brittle) heat exchanger. The union refused to budge even with a massive wrench. Heated the union with a blow torch, removed flame, sprayed WD40 on it which instantly turned to vapour. After some hours, (I was doing other jobs as well), the union rotated as if the union had just been installed new! I've now one of the induction heaters from Amazon. Fantastic tool, especially on a motorcycle with plastic panels etc, that you wouldn't want to use a blow torch on without removing them.
As time continues on I find more of the specific questions I have answered on your channel xD I know some videos cost more than others but the time and money you have saved me from your tests over the years has helped so much. And your reviews are always balanced and fair I feel, from best option to best bargain comparisons, thank you for the vids! :D
You are welcome!
@@ProjectFarm do a test on joe bidens iq bet its shockingly low
Great Job! Love your videos. I’m a yacht engineer and I can honestly say that people in the industry have seen your videos and heard of you. You’re making a useful impact and I appreciate it. Keep them coming!
Thank you! I appreciate hearing that!
Back in the day, (about 1960) the maintenance guys used the liquid that settled from the heat treating furnace's huge natural gas line's "drip leg" to free stuck bolts. I wonder if Liquid Wrench is similar. As another poster said, it sure does smell like it. Gee- I have been using PB Blaster as my go-to solution for quite a while. But, come think of it, I often still have to go the "heat" route if that doesn't work. I use induction heaters when a flame isn't feasible, by the way.
Thanks for sharing.
PB Blaster has been my go-to as well, sadly it didn't do too well. I had heard that using heat could compromise the strength of the bolts, not sure if that's true.
@@da7heaven Re: "I had heard that using heat could compromise the strength of the bolts, not sure if that's true." Yes, I am certain that it IS true, unless you know for sure that the bolt is made from steel that is too low in alloy to be hardened or tempered. I particularly cringe when I see someone heating automobile suspension parts to a red glow. If the bolt is replaced by a new known-to-be-correct one, that would be okay. On the other hand, using heat on exhaust manifold parts doesn't bother me.