Strummer Stitching Iron Jig
2024 ж. 22 Мам.
19 197 Рет қаралды
I designed this jig to help me make it easy to improve my leather stitching. It holds your stitching iron at a perfect 90 degrees so your holes always go straight through your work piece. It also has an adjustable fence that can be set to your desired stitch width allowance.
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0:00 Intro
0:15 foundation of great stitching
0:40 scenario where things go wrong
1:00 why things go wrong
1:31 The problem to be solved
2:25 Tour of the Jig
3:38 Demo intro
4:15 Set-up for leather thickness
5:20 Set-up for stitch width
6:38 Making holes
7:45 See the perfect stitching holes
8:10 Fast stitching
8:43 Stitching results
What a cool design! I just ordered one 👍🏻.
Thanks. I’m sending out a shipment tomorrow. Would love your feedback after you have given it a whirl.
Great bit of kit
very nice idea
That would help me having partial use of both hands from being paralyzed.. Just as well my stuff isn't top shelf items.
Shame that there's the one negative comment, but I do have a couple of hopefully helpful comments. I know it was just a demonstration, but on a real project, you'll want the iron to straddle the stitch line. In fact, is a line technically even necessary? Sure, it gives a frame of reference, but once the screw is tightened, there isn't going to be any variation, right? The reason to straddle the line is so that it will be rendered invisible once the stitching is done. The way you show the holes alongide the line, it might be visible after stitching, something you don't want, obviously. The second observation is that it certainly does a great job of keeping the iron plumb vertically, but what about the other axis? The iron also has to be kept at 90 degrees to the leather, or else you get inconsistency. The stitch line might be straight, but the stitch lengths might suffer. I wonder whether you might be able to address that with two sliding blocks which prevent the iron from rocking back-and-forth? Some leatherworkers use a drill press in order to keep their chisels straight. I suppose it works OK, I personally haven't felt the need to try it, but your method seems more flexible and certainly cheaper than investing in a drill press if you don't have other needs for one. I'm a fan of creativity and I give you props for thinking about the process and realizing a solution. Good on 'ya!
Amazing feedback. Thank you so much. Yes, I was rushing a bit in the demo - I do agree that the marks ought to straddle the stitch line. Doing so helps to hide the line under the thread. And yes, once you have locked-in the jig, you don't really need a stitching line at all. I did record myself making this point but it didn't make it through through the edit. Early 3d-printed prototypes did have a groove to hold the iron perpendicular on all axes. I chose to forgo this in the first production version for two reasons. First, I couldn't yet come up with a simple design that would work well with irons with handles of varying widths. Second, in my testing, I found that it is actually helpful to be able to slightly tip the iron to get one tooth in a pre-existing hole. I will need to tackle the need for some kind of groove or adapter for non-magnetic irons like Sinabroks. Coming soon! I have not tried the drill press trick, but I was frustrated with a similar arbor press hack. I found that having a handheld solution offered more flexibility. Again.. thanks so much for your feedback.
Very nice jig. I am 80 years old, and have been leather crafting since I was sixteen. I am impressed with your design. Do you have an adaptation for curved edges?
Thank you, sir! This jig can be used with curved edges. I made a video that shows me making a chef knife sheath. The sheath has a long gently curved edge and a very tight curve at the point. You can jump right to me making the stitch holes here. kzhead.info/sun/e9qIlc6wmIh_ZWg/bejne.html
Nice work on the sheath. I make mostly products with lots of inside and outside curves. Have you thought of making a version with a roller guide or rounded point back stop like the option on sewing machines? That might enable to get the same nice vertical punches on those pesky inside curves. Best regards.
@@jwoldsr1 The roller/circular guide is a brilliant idea. I had not thought of that before but I am definitely thinking about it now.
What a great idea! I was actually looking to buy one, but sadly shipping is not an option for my country of Denmark :/
Oh, we can change that! Please check the site again.
Thank you very much for accommodation. I will be ordering one next week when I get my salery :) @@StrummerDesign
I like the premise, but it would be awesome to put the iron into some kind of lever system. The main problem I have with making the holes is the banging.
Yep. It does nothing for the noise. ;)
You can use an arbor press if you want a lever actuated punch.
Hello, why you didn't insert two vertical rail to constraints the punch iron to work strincly vertical?
Because not all stitching iron handles are the same width. There might be some way to accommodate different handle widths in a future version.
I saw one on aliexpress few years ago. Made of metal with manual presser. Cant find them anymore
Will this work with Sinabroks Irons as well?
Likely not since the Sinabroks has a cylindrical shaft and is not magnetic due to been constructed largely of brass That said, I do have my own Sinabroks iron on order so that I can test and possibly design a different model that supports its characteristics.
@@StrummerDesign Excellent. Might I also ask if you could add slider marks for 1.5,2.,and 3mm to use for marking stitch lines? It would be an asset for smaller items .All in one go tool.I'm looking forward to your test model.
@@dasghiai Thanks for the thoughtful feedback. I did consider adding some kind of stitch line measuring system. The issue that I have not figured out how to solve is that not all stitching irons/chisels are the same thickness. So, the 1/5/2/3mm setting might be accurate for one iron, but not for another one. I'm certain there is a good solution for this, I just haven't found it.... yet. ;)
What about tapered shank tools like Wuta?
Yeah. Good question. I’ve been thinking about that too. There’s also the problem of cylindrical handles like Sinabroks. I’ve got some ideas for adapters (or maybe different models) in the works
Which Wuta model do you use?
I use the WUTA 3.85 round hole punch 2nd gen
@StrummerDesign I have custom-made pricking iron which has cylinder shaped shank...what about for that ?
@@deepdiver849 Irons with cylindrical shanks likely will not work well with this model of jig. I have a Sinabroks iron on order so I can do some testing and designing for either a new model or adapter for this one.
It would have been better if you had centered the iron over the stitch line instead of next to it. So you now have a 3 MM edge rather than the 4MM that you intended to have. Another way is just to learn how to use a stitching iron in the first place. This works well for some people who have problems with plumb and level.
Hey @dave5176. Thanks for watching and for the feedback. You're right - I did set the jig so the teeth fell next to the stitch line. This was not the intent. I was rushing while making this video (it was my first one.) I agree, it is best to have the hole made directly on the stitch line so that the line is then hidden by the stitching. Interestingly, if you configure the jig using a piece of scrap, you can completely avoid putting any stitch line on your work piece. Maybe a good idea for a future video!
How do I order one?
From our store right here! www.strummerdesign.com/store/p/stitch-marking-jig
Figured it out, just completed the order. Thanks
I suppose it’s ok for straight stitching but no use for inside or outside curves.
Thanks for the comment. Watch for my next video where I show how to use the jig for an outside curve. That's a fair point about the Inside curves. Inside curves can still benefit from the jig. If you remove the fence, spin the jig 90 degrees and put it on the work piece, you can still get the benefit of the perfect perpendicularity for your stitching holes. Thanks again for the feedback. It is helpful and appreciated.
FYI... this video shows using the jig with some curves. kzhead.info/sun/e9qIlc6wmIh_ZWg/bejne.htmlsi=gJ7RHC8qAsh_4NfJ&t=441
this can fail very easily as it did on the left half of the piece in 8:05. Still it could be an improvement for starters.
A solution looking for a problem
I mean…he describes the problem it’s meant to solve in the video and clarified further that it’s meant to make higher quality parts faster and more easily. I’m guessing that you’re really trying to say something along the lines of “I learned to make perfect stitch lines without a jig, therefore a jig is unnecessary.” And look, if you can get your stitching iron perfectly vertical and straight every time without a jig, then good for you. Have a cookie-you earned it. That doesn’t mean this jig doesn’t solve any real problems or that nobody else could make good use of this tool. Imagine trying to get perfect stitch lines when you have a hand tremor, or a missing thumb, or severe arthritis. Just read the other comments for some examples of people who have problems that this jig can solve.
Thanks, @@cavemandanwilder5597. I wasn't even thinking about the accessibility benefits of this jig. Just goes to show that any, and all, feedback can lead to greater understanding and learning.
@@cavemandanwilder5597 its good looking tool but it looks like a bit of a hassle to set it up, you might try to work on that. there are other solutions to the problem for about 120usd you can get arbour press with drill choke. which does the same thing and a couple of different things as well, and works on other tools like Sinanbrook punches, i aggre little bit with @robrobinson7340
I had this problem until I started using my drill press much faster and and all holes are straight
Good idea..🙏💪