0W-8 Motor Oil: Too THIN to Trust? Let's Find Out!
How thin is 0W-8 motor oil? Toyota now calls for 0W-8 motor oil, which was only recently approved for use by the API. Can it actually protect the engine? Do Toyota dealerships actually install 0W-8 when they do the "free" oil changes? In this video, we put used oil analysis to work to get the answers to those questions, and the results are quite shocking!
Speaking of thin oils, we also took a sample of the CVT fluid from the transmission as well, so check out those results at the end of the video.
In a previous video, I changed the oil in my daughter's new Toyota Corolla before it had 1,000 miles on it. Here's the link to that video: • AVOID the ONE MISTAKE ...
Then we changed it again after about 3,000 miles. Here's the link to that video: • NEW Engine BREAK-IN: T...
At both oil changes, the Toyota recommended 0W-8 was not yet available because the American Petroleum Institute (API) had not yet approved the use of 0W-8 oils in the US.
Now that it is time for the first "free" oil change at the dealership, are they going to use the Toyota 0W-8 oil? By taking a sample of the oil from the engine AFTER the oil change with a vacuum extraction pump we find out!
Since we are talking about oil changes, here are some links to previous videos on oil filters and oil change procedures:
Should you pre-fill an oil filter?
• Does Pre-FILLING The O...
If your oil filter is vertically or horizontally mounted, here's a Short that shows you how to prime the filter before firing the engine: • Oil Change Hack For Ve...
For more about Oil Analysis, check out: www.speediagnostix.com
The oil analysis results showed that the Toyota Genuine 0W-16 did a great job. It is available at amzn.to/3t1iN5H
Who is the @themotoroilgeek? I'm a Society of Tribologists and Lubrication Engineers Certified Lubrication Specialist and Oil Monitoring Analyst (I've maintained both of those for over a decade). I also worked for Joe Gibbs Racing for 12 years as their lubricant specialist. During that time, we worked with Wix Filters (one of our sponsors) to test and develop filters for our race engines. We also worked with Lubrizol and Chevron-Phillips Chemical to test and develop oils for our race cars. Following that, I was the head of R&D for Driven Racing Oil. During that time, I formulated and tested over 50 products. We also worked with Cummins, Comp Cams, Oak Ridge National Labs and General Motors on various R&D products. Those efforts are recorded in peer reviewed white papers published by SAE International and ACS Sustainable Chemistry journals. I also own and operate SPEEDiagnostix, which provides used oil analysis.
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases That just means that I may earn a small commission, at no cost to you, if you choose to purchase that product from Amazon.com. It is a way to help support the work of The Motor Oil Geek.
#oilchange #motoroil #syntheticoil #engine #0w8 #cvttransmission
Here's the link to the research report from Oak Ridge National Lab on the special 0W-12 oil. www.osti.gov/biblio/1798600
Who has written that and nobody read it...?😂 In abstract: "up to 9.9% better fuel economy for the IL-containing SAE 0W-12 experimental oil compared with selected commercial SAE 5W-30 and 0W-20 engine oils." The 0w-20 had no info in the paper and the table just say "n/a". So there is NO measured benifits in this paper anyway that there is ANY fule economy savings to be had going from 0w-20 to 0W-12 with or without whatever additives (IL) in it. A misleading abstract and a assumption that is unverified by the report. (it probably has likely one but they can not claim something they have not tested!)🤔 💖
Did this pass for turbo charged? :)
Speaking of transmission fluid, the myth of ATF having miraculous cleaning abilities would be a great topic for a video. I personally think ATF doesn't have special cleaning abilities, and people just think it does because they don't understand transmissions don't collect carbon like engine oil does. But getting the facts from you could finally end or confirm this myth.
@@AmazonasBiotopagreed. My car calls for 0-W16 and I never saw more than 38.5 mpg around town. Funny thing is the oil change place didn’t have 0-W16 so I just told them use Mobile1 5-W20. Since the oil change I’m getting 40.5 mpg around town. 🤔
@jalofanclub Yes, yesterday I did a oil change on my 2010 Prius gen 3. Been using 0w-20 and decided to put 0w-16 in it for the first time.. The gen 3 have never been recommended in the owner manual to have a 0w-16.. There is a couple of reasons I did the switch to 0w-16 anyway: 1. It is not that far of a jump in viscosity to begin with. 2. The 0w-16 did not exist 2010. So Toyota could not specify it, when it don't exit.. 3. The same Prius gen 3 engine is used in gen 4 there they specifying 0w-16. 4. And and I am a oil geek since 30 years. 😅 It went well and it seams to work super and the gasoline usage seams to begin going down also. My take on it is that viscosity is not as important that it used to be..😅 In the old days the additives were not that many and as good as they are today.. So we needed then to more than today relay on viscosity so that higher viscosity at 100°C were that engine protection.. With higher viscosity. Today viscosity is less of an importance when the additives are far better that creates that protection that higher viscosity did on the old days. And the base stock oil today is probably that thin so that we can deliver the additives in a more timely matter. And probably that is more important than anything else nowadays.😅
It’s always 10,000 miles when the dealership pays. It’s 5,000 miles when it’s on your dime.
Well said
You still paid for the 10K change. Why do you think these rigs have tripled in price?
Long service intervals look good when selling a car as low maintenance, though they may not be that great for the vehicle in practice. How many engines have timing chain wear problems these days? Changing oil at 5,000 miles may not guarantee you never have problems, but it is better for the engine than waiting for the oil light.
This is because when you pay, they usually sell you 'conventional' oil, which is a 5K mile oil. It's not the same they use when you are under the free oil changes. Unless you ask for Synthetic oil, then it will be 10k mile. But, it is more expensive.
Uh, use the good stuff, e.g. Mobil-1 or similar, and change it every four to six months? (NOTE: This is when you’re only driving a hundred miles or so per month, with at least one session per month where the engine gets warmed and stays warm for an hour or two, e.g. “bill-paying and groceries, about forty miles at 25-40 miles an hour on longish surface streets with little stop and go traffic.” Not quite the “ninety-two mile oil change” of mid-seventies Mad magazine, but under a thousand miles per instance.)
Toyota tech seeing Lake come in with his daughter's car-"Oh man, we better use that 0W-8 on his because he is going to analyze it for sure". LOL
Well I don’t think they could have stocked it because they knew he was coming. It had to already be there.
😂😂 That's exactly what came trough my mind too. The garage knew that there was no time to play with the oil type
I’m not into conspiracy stuff like that. They may not even know who Lake is because they’ve got so many people working. The vehicle is in his daughter’s name. But who knows they may have something written in the notes in this vehicles file if they should find out. It’s a possibility. Yet I highly doubt it!
It comes down to the individual dealership. A lot of them will not use OEM oil and just use the cheapest synthetic oil they can buy in bulk or a different OEM oil from one of their other brands that is cheaper. Prime example, the Toyota dealer I bought my 2019 Tacoma from used Ford OEM oil because they were also a Ford dealer and that was the cheapest they could get. The Toyota dealer I use now since I moved uses Toyota OEM oil as they are exclusively a Toyota dealer
@@mrvwbug4423 I think Motorcraft is still Citgo.
I have the same 0W-8 spec’d car that I took to the dealer for the free ‘Toyota Care’ service and I asked the service advisor what oil they put in it. She didn’t know and had to ask her colleague who said 0W-20. I said “Are you sure, because the sticker on the engine says 0W-8.” She said “We don’t have that but can use 0W-16 if you want” So I walked over to the dealer parts counter, who had 0W-8 sitting on the shelf. Thankfully he told the service advisor they could use it for my car. I’m guessing the average customer gets whatever oil is most convenient for the dealer. When someone comes in and hands them an oil sample bottle to use I bet they call the boss, who tells them to make sure and use the good stuff on this one!
LOL, good point.
Dealers aren't as bad, but Most places are hacks and give everyone 5w30 dino oil. Most don't even change the filter.
Using an oil with higher viscosity, will increase fuel consumption, right?
Good thing you were smart enough to check with parts dept and not accept what the, clueless, Service Writer had to offer.
I would imagine they have a pump and dont even normally use oil from jugs.
No speculation on this channel, all science. So many myths that have been engraved in our minds for decades regarding engine oil and you are dispelling them. Excellent work Lake.
Thank you!
Still a little, to be truly scientific you needed a control, where you did the changes exactly per the mfg and compare the results
As far as I know the CVT Transmission fluid cannot be completely drained from the drain plug. Additionally from the evidence I've seen the transmission fluids only last about 60,000 miles at most. They go from red to black so I don't believe the story about them never needing to be changed. I also believe there should be a law against making the fluid level so difficult to check it's almost impossible for the owner.
Planned obsolescence Baby…. they got a big lobby
VERY few people even know that a CVT needs frequent oil AND filter changes. Some manufacturers recommend servicing between 30,000 and 60,000 miles, depending on driving conditions. I don't know of anyone who rebuilds them, and they all have very short warrantys!!
@@bradhuff777 Nissan infinity cvt transmissions had issues.
Maybe the fluid is more expensive than the transmission?
@@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259 it isn’t. i have diy serviced my toyota cvt along with the filter change. The fill port is behind the wheel and getting the right level is bit of a process but still easy enough.
I have the 2024 Corolla Hatch. The American manual states to use 0w-8 and 0w-16. However the Australian manual says that you can use 0w-16, 0w-20, 5w-20, 5w-30 and 10w-30. From what I read, the lighter oil slightly increases fuel efficiency which is required by US law
You are on it!
Interesting! Is it a myth then about the different API starburst symbol on 0W-8 & 0W-12 products to show it is not backwards compatible with 0W-20 through 20W-50? I heard that engines designed for 0W-8 and 0W-12 have different bearing finishes. So that's not true?
This. It’s strictly a tactic to meet CAFE standards. Has nothing to do with longevity or “tight oil passages” engineered for 0w-8. It’s not. Thicker oil is fine.
You better of using 5-20 or 5-30
I agree They are not manufacturing different engine with different tolerances in 2.0l f example for Europe and for USA! That would cost alot..
Just watched you on Dave's engine shop in utah. Great advice
Me too, Two High achieving individuals 🇺🇸👍
Saw Lake there too!
Thanks!
Everyone should watch that.
Me too !!!
It's truly a breathe of fresh air to see someone with a channel that has actual scientific data to explain what is happening instead of speculation and conjecture. Would you ever do an episode or maybe even a series on engine oil additives? Specifically Liqui-moly Ceratec. Thank you : )
Hells yeah
I use Castrol 10W-40 for my 1989 Mazda, changed every 5000 km's since new; just did a borescope of each cylinder after over a third of a million km's and the bores look like new, not a mark on any of them.
My 2022 Ram with the HEMI is specced to run 0w20. After 30,000 miles of 5,000 mile OCI, it developed a tick at cold start. No. I swapped it out to 5w30 and started doing all of my own oil changes. The cold start tick disappeared and I have not seen any measurable drop in fuel economy(average 21-23 mpg on the highway, hand calculated). I’m convinced that, for this vehicle, 0w20 is just for that slightly improved fuel economy for EPA ratings.
5w30, greatest human invention ever
@@BF1-P0W-40 ist better!
Some Toyota hybrids take regular Toyota ATF. They use 2 electric motors and a planetary gear set to change the gear ratios rather than a belt or chain. Super reliable and durable
Ok you’re talking about the Hybrid not the gasoline motor only
@@AB-yc1np as far as I know, yes. The eCVT trans is for sure belt/chainless, but I'm unaware of Toyota's gas only trans construction.
eCVT
@@ElPants21 the two are different. The eCVT in the hybrids is incredibly reliable with countless examples having well over 200,000 miles. The CVT in the standard gas powered vehicles on the other hand, I have not seen any that are known for their reliability regardless of the manufacturer. Subaru, Nissan, Mitsubishi, Honda, Toyota, it doesn’t matter. Some are slightly better than others, but none carry the same reliability as the eCVT.
Way back when, I used 20w50 oil in everything and it seemed to work great. Over the years it has been hard to adapt to the ever-thinning viscosities. I am struggling with the 0w20 requirement in my newly-purchased 20011 FJ Cruiser and now they come along with ow8! Your extensive testing is helping this aging gear head adapt to a new reality.
cus engine tolrances are much tighter now. old 60s 70s 80s where horrible specs, lots of slop in engines. things do improve. If you use too thick on modern engines you will cause damage, ever think the makers know what they make?
@@cengeb That's very true, but I still would be extremely skeptical to run anything less than 20 weight in anything that's going to haul or tow. Too much stress on the drivetrain to depend on sub 20 weight oil keeping parts from touching.
Also, manufacturers aim is economy not longevity so v thin oil may not be in your best interest.
@@bobbygetsbanned6049 Thanks for this! I say that because I have the lowest power, production car in America. The Mitsubish G4, and it revs a lot more, it's built for that, but I wonder if just pulling itself, is why they went with 5w-30....but it also makes me consider that they've made them similarly for so long, that maybe the cheapest car in America, which is going away by the way, that maybe, just maybe, they haven't built them any tighter or newer, so they were wise enough to still insist on 5w-30. Sure, cafe keeps pushing the limits, but since it sips gas, they didn't have to compromise on the oil choices.
Lake is doing a great job bring many oil myths to light. I threw him a shout-out on my channel and I’m in the process of doing the same mileage test on Costco oil.
Thank you so much!
He's like a wise Wolf 😊
One of your early subs. I love your videos. We bought a 2024 Corolla Cross and followed your advice. First oil change at 1,000, second at 3500. Going for our first dealer service and we will do an oil analysis and CVT analysis. Thank you so much!
What anybody tells you on any media channel is suspect. The vehicle manufacturer guides you on proper maintenance. They know more than anybody . That said , changing your oil more often will not hurt the vehicle. Just keep in mind that a new vehicle may have special oil to help break in the engine. I would not change the oil after 1,000 miles on a new vehicle. Any metal flakes will be filtered out by the OIL FILTER . JMO
Those first 2 are the most important. Same for trans and differentials. I do those around 12K. 10 if any significant towing.
@@rayRay-pw6gz "The vehicle manufacturer guides you on proper maintenance." Wrong. They guide you on maintenance, not proper maintenance. Case in point, BMW recommending 5,000 mile oil change intervals in their engines that have disposable rod bearings. The results are not shocking, the bottom end comes apart at 60,000 miles.
@@bubbleman2002 Toyota has never let me down . 2018 Camry. The best build and engineering of any vehicle I have owned. 2.5 L. 203HP 8 speed auto/manual . Solid platform and perfect suspension. Fun and comfortable to drive. This is a drivers car. With great safety features. 6,700 redline . I change the oil at 5K or less.
The videos you make on this channel are so important for consumers like myself that are a bit obsessed with trying to make sure we keep our vehicles running the best we can for as long as we can. I really appreciate you taking the time to make them.
Thank you!
I'm still sceptical of any filled for life claims.
Me too!
Life of vehicle is usually only 100,000 miles for most manufacturers, so... 100k is what you can expect.
It just means the life isn't as long. The oil life didn't get longer, the transmission life just got shorter.
@@cup_and_cone Or change the transmission fluid every 30k miles and the car may last 50% or 100% longer...
Why. There’s no legal length on life. They’ll just say sorry that was its life, but you can change the fluid now based on our specs lol. I think in the manual by the lifetime fills they should have to put estimates of their interpretations of lifetime at the very least.
Thanks for sharing, Lake! I enjoy your content.
*clutched my heart and winced after reading "-so it's time for the first free oil change at the-" and not reading "i did first oil change super early due to engine break in shavings" edited: thank god right after i continue playing the video i found out you changed it twice already.
LOL
Wait a minute! You son of bitch!😂 just when I let me guard down after work day. It's still April's fool. Legit thought to myself "what's next, 0w-0? -1w-(-1)? -1w+1?😂"
I appreciate the confirmation that the manufacturers know what they're doing. I hear so many people accuse manufacturers of giving bad advice to make you ruin your engine so you have to buy a new car. I bet what is actually happening is that people use cheap oil and then run it for 10k+ miles...
I love this channel so great to see real results!!!
Thank you!
CVT note: if you have a planetary gear-type CVT, it may call for ATF, instead of CVT fluid, just be sure to check the owners manual.
I stick to oem fluids for CVTs. Not going to risk a 5k trans to save 40 bucks.
I still remember using W20-50 Duckhams Q in early Minis in the 60’s, the oil was green in colour.
You can still buy Duckhams Q 20W-50 (it's now API SJ in the UK) and it's still green in colour! They do a Q 10W-40 too, which replaces the old Q 5500 (10W-30) oil.
My box goes on about this all the time he said it was recycled oil
You mean gear box lube?
@@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259 the Mini gearbox lived in the engine oil pan, so it was engine and gear oil.
@@chrisbarnes2823 Makes sense. I only had the opportunity to spend quality time with an mg that had no roof, chrome bumpers and no rust. I really wanted that car.
that’s awesome we spoke on the phone just before New Years I have a 2021 Toyota Corolla Se, amazing information and great video
It is always interesting listening your explanations backed with data.
CVT transmissions can work well as long as you know what you have, fluid needs changed every 20,000 miles, the Jatco transmissions have 2 filters, one in the pan, the other where the cooler lines come out, make sure both are changed, also they will not stand hard driving, that is why you will only find them behind low power 4 cylinder cars, so drive easy and get the fuel economy benefit, never let your 18 year old son borrow it lol
Lake, your content and topics you cover is always top notch. Super interesting and useful to know. Thank you so much for all your hard work. I am always impatient to see more videos from you! God bless
Thanks!
Hi Lake, I have to say I have learned so much from you, and you have a great way of explaining so it makes sense and is easy to understand. Thank you guy.
Thank you for addressing transmission fluid change. Hopefully you have more information.
Thanks for the video, appreciate the topic a lot because I personally feel very bad using thin oils. As a Toyota dealer technician in Europe, I can tell you we use 5W-30 in this exact engine, and on basically all the other common Toyota models and engines. We only have 0W-20 for the 1.2 4 cylinder turbo (8NR-FTS engine), thats as thin as we go. Oh and by the way, we don't even use OEM Toyota engine oil, just some generic brand (with Toyota specification approval) which is still mindboggling to me since the oil changes are not so cheap
Amazing Dad. And great technical analysis 👍
Thanks!
I love the idea you have about testing the oil at different intervals. I'm curious to see how well the oil is doing at 10K miles. Great video - watching your others!
Man, for a second, I thought you really went over 10,000 miles without changing the oil! I've been doing mine every 5k with Mobil 1, but recently started doing it every 4k.
I will never go 10k between oil changes. I wouldn’t be able to sleep at night. Oil is cheap, engines aren’t.
I feel like my issue is if there is a oil/coolant/gas leak into the oil you will not find out until its way too late. So even if the oil can last that long there are still other issues. A good user will check and find those things but I feel like a lot of people will be lazy and never know until their next oil change.
He didn't
@@pleasedontwatchthese9593Just smell it on the dipstick each time(fuel) any significant water would make it milky.
your probably using the wrong oil son. i let my oil analysis of my motor oil tell me if its good or needs to be changed. your a dumbass if you do the factory recommend internals. HELLO!!!! they dont want your car to last because they want you to buy a new one.
Sure thing. You can see why van operators push it out to the 20k miles / 30k km though that Fiat (Dodge), Mercedes, Ford, Renault etc say (with e.g., 2.0L turbo diesels), as they want to keep the costs down. Plenty of people see that this is what it says for their passenger car Mercedes C300 diesel or Renault Talisman diesel as well and just follow it too. In theory this should be OK as long as the oil stays in spec and doesn't get diluted with fuels, though these Euro engines following these schedules do tend to be varnished up when they are opened up.
I had heard that the newest Corolla CVT's have a conventional 1st gear and then CVT for the other "gears", but I haven't confirmed which engine comes with which CVT, etc. Thanks for the great info!
What a great dad you are, looking after your daughters car like this. 😊
😊 thank you
Its amazing how youtubers like Mr. Speed Jr. Can take a simple concept and drag it out, then drag it out to a 16 minute video. Even the cadence with with which he speaks, up and down in tone and speed. Pausing occasionally to annuciate a word here and there.
I’d never wait for 10,000 miles! Agree!
ya only really dumb owners would ever even consider going that long on any engine
It would be very interesting to get your take on the new Valvoline restore and protect. It claims to be the only oil that actually removes deposits. If it does what it claims, it would be great to clean coking from oil control rings on DI engines.
I would bet that adding something like Marvel Mystery Oil to your engine oil achieves the same deposite removal results at a cheaper price point.
I've asked in another video for him to do this as well! I hope he does
@stephenh809l2 lol
It's not going to clean deposits from the intake ports on DI engines. And coking on oil rings is not just a DI thing that is most modern engines as they all have low tension oil rings now. I've only seen two design solutions that reduce or eliminate the intake deposits on DI engines, either dual DI/port injection like Toyota D4S and the newer Ford EcoBoosts or water jacketed intake ports like Mazda has on the SkyActiv engines.
Stay tuned! We are going to do an in-depth video on the Valvoline Restore & Protect.
Loved your interview with Dave Auto Center 😊
Thanks!
RepairGeek recommended your channel. Great educational video’s your sharing. Appreciated ❤
Thanks Lake Speed Jr! Really enjoy your “daughter’s Toyota saga”! Nice car btw! Yes, I was scared of the low viscosity 😅 Maybe I can put that 0-w 8 in a ‘95 powerstroke if it reduces wear even better that regular oil, due to it’s top secret super sauce! 😆
The issue with the corolla cvt service, at least the prior one is you only get something like 1.5 quarts to drain due to the location of the drain plug on the pan, it holds about 8 quarts. There are 3 or so magnets in the pan no need to worry about service for a while. Best/most cost effective way to service is drop the pan, clean the magnets and replace the gasket. Or use a flush machine but 12 quarts of toyota cvt fluid is expensive, and the fluid level still needs to be set/verified after flushing.
My Honda 1.5T CVT transmission i changed it @ 15K & 30K worked fine & i drove it hard & it was tuned. I think CVT is decent u just gotta take care of them.. change the hell out of the fluids lol. 🆒 video. Thanks 💯
I’ve watched several of your videos and I respect your knowledge and expertise. Let’s say for purposes of this discussion, you are right about all of it. For me, and for most guys who buy and use cars in an average way, none of it matters. I’m in my 60s and like lots of other guys my age, I’ve owned lots of different vehicles. I’ll sell a car when I don’t need it, or don’t like it anymore, or sometimes too many little things go wrong with it. But it’s been a long time since I owned a vehicle with engine trouble. Todays cars and trucks run a long time with just a little bit of ordinary maintenance. To the guy who buys new and wants to keep it past 300,000 miles … To that guy, if he exists, what you say matters. To the rest of us, buying and selling on the front end or the back end, we’ll never get a reward from persnickety oil maintenance. That said….i enjoy the videos!!
Thanks for the comment. Maybe in my world of engine building we see all the failures, so our vision is different than the ordinary customers.
When I'm in my 60's I'll be grateful for my picky oil and filter selection, 5k OCI's, and rabbit holes on rust-proofing, when I'm still driving my '18 Camry and hopefully '12 Civic LX MT. I hear ya though! LOL
My wife's Subaru calls for 0-w20. It started burning oil at 120,000 miles requiring a quart every 2500 miles. I switched to 5w-20 and it hasn't burned a measurable amount of oil for 80,000 miles since.
That's cause subarus seem to only call for 0w 20 in the US I have a new wrx an it say 0w 20 but in Japan Australia an Canada manuel says 5w 30 it's emissions crap they don't care about the life of your engine
The W number is strictly a cold measurement, it's likely something different between the two.
@PSA78 they recommend 5w 30 so they want higher weight in cold an hot also higher weight oil you get less blow by on these di engines so less intake buildup
@@JoshDillon-lm3hw It's not "weight", the W(inter) is just a measurement of cranking force at a specific temperature (really low) and the last number is regular viscosity (span) at 100c (converted to a number for each specific type of lubrication; like engine or transmission). The W number can theoretically always be reduced (diesels sometimes excluded practically as they don't like the high amount of viscosity modifiers that might be needed). How much oil they burn is more down to how volatile the oil is, a small change in viscosity isn't going to matter when all things are considered. There's possible wear reductions with lower viscosity as well as the additives works more efficiently in mixed and boundary lubrication regime, it all has to come together in the end. It's like Lake says, let the UOA tell what's happening
@PSA78 the numbers are the weight of the oil lol weight is what viscosity was to called the last hundred years why people who don't know oil think that's what w stands for
Love that series. I wish you did one on selecting an oil for a used car.
Great suggestion!
@@themotoroilgeekyes please, specially for 90s to 2000s TDI engines with north of 250.000km. I've been running 5w40 since the beginning :-)
Okay, I was just heading to the comment section to tell you my opinion of waiting 10k for the first oil change. Glad to hear you didn't wait that long in reality.
no one shood be changing oil at 10K
@@jesseozmen9835 everyone in europe is, most of the people say its not worth the money to change it earlier. Some people even change it every 20k
@@foxy126pl6 europians may be off there rockers. 5k max less in city driving or cold hard towing app.
@@Billybigrigger-ic7jp idk, we usually type "15k km for next oil change" which is like 9000 miles, most of the people do it either every 15k or every year, whichever comes 1st. I have seen some people do 30k km or 18k miles between oil changes since "thats what the manual says"
@@foxy126pl6 lol the manual also says ideal circumstances. Nobody anywhere has ideal!
My son had the Corolla hatchback with the 6-speed, but he was never that pleased with it, so he sold it on and he's been driving around my 23-year old Corolla, and he loves it. 😅
I feel like you are the right person to ask this and I would love to see a video on this as it seems no one is in agreement. Techs believe 3-5k is max even with advances in technology while OE’s are pushing that 10-15k while aftermarket’s like Mobile 1 and Amsoil are pushing 20-25k. Obviously the question is quite load and dependent on many variables but with everyone is disagreement it’s hard to come to an educated opinion
change your oil at 5k max. no matter what oil you use. Your engine will outlast any other. that has a owner dumb enough to go 10 k or more
At 49 yrs old, and owning a shop, working dealerships, just 25 yr recert ASE Master +, having loyal customers nearly 20 yrs in my shop, I can give proven, experienced advise. Stick to around 5k miles. I tell certain ones with newer cars they can stretch a little if they have good driving habits. I get to see their oil when it comes out. Personally my vehicles all go 3-400k miles on original engines. I stay between 3-5k max. Because I know my driving habits. lol. 80's to mid 90's get 3k on the sticker. ALL others get 5k unless they demand otherwise. I generally rotate every time now. I switched to full syn oils back about 2010 (syn-blend about 2006) for all vehicles and never used cheap filters. Mostly OEM. Don't like it? Go somewhere else. I'm not an oil change shop. I only do oil changes for my regulars so I can monitor for other upcoming issues. A 5 quart oil change is running about $84 total May 2024. But how many have a $100/hr tech changing your oil and checking everything over at that time? Not many.
The truth is until you show me a car with at least 100K miles on it been running with this thin oil I remain skeptical Great video other wise!!
Thin oil flows better at startup, when most wear occurs. Tighter engine bearing clearances and smaller oil passages require lower viscosity oils. The additive package and oil chemistry makes all the difference
@@wallacegrommet9343 For the south, I live in a surprisingly overnight cold area for temperature drops. You got me thinking I want better startup flow. My 2018 Mitsubishi G4 3 cylinder engine still recommends 5w-30, but this video talking about how 0w-16 protection has a better package, combined with it being winter has really got me thinking. Nostalgia and thinking thicker is better, has me so proud of them still making 5w-30 cars, but I have to say, how many brands of cars I've seen where the engines were not changed, but moved from that to 0w-20. I suspect these new 16 oils have something special going on. 0w-20 definitely wore out engines faster. I'm wondering if better additive packages can turn that around in the newer oils. 5w-30 keeps being updated too though so... well... it's complicated!
I have a 2006 Honda and 2008 Toyota intentionally running 0W-16 full synthetic oil, changed every 10,000 miles. Both call for thicker oil changed more than twice as frequently. 611,000 miles on one and 406,000 miles on the other, nether engine has ever been opened/refurbished, neither car burns oil. The reduction in engine drag is quite noticable; both cars gained an average of 2mpg, and on the Honda, I have to throw the shifter into first gear to get the amount of engine braking I used to get in second gear. On the Toyota, it has worn out synchros that would regularly grind during certain shifts, especially when cold. I recently upgraded it from the specified 75W-90 oil to the thinnest same kind of oil I could find, a recently released 70W-75. The change was immediate and almost as good as a new set of synchros, and to my surprise, the car gained another MPG on average (I didn't think there was that much drag in a manual transmission!). Both cars start much easier in the winter. If there's any downsides to running thinner oils on an extended change schedule, it's been years now and I haven't discovered it yet--I would totally do it again and only wish I had started sooner.
@@shalemloritsch9382 Nice, I'm definitely going to go with it! 0w-16 here I come!
@@shalemloritsch9382 How many of the 611K miles were with 0W16? What were the original bulk of miles run with? 0W16 hasn't existed for most of the life of those cars, so what got them to be high-miles cars was clearly not the 0W16.
I really rock the boat on my DIY oil changes. Use Shell Rotella T6 full synthetic 5W40 diesel oil in my 2007 Volvo XC70 with turbocharged 2.5 liter gas engine. Change every 5K and doing fine.
mint good work my friend i use shell deisel oil in everything has lots of zinc zddp especially in rec vehicles works awesome and much cheaper than any dealers oil
23 Jeep Wrangler with the 3.6Changed my oil at 1500 with Fram Titanium Filter (came in oil change package at Advance Auto, really wanted the Purolator Boss but around same price separate. (kinda late, I wanted to change at under 1000mi but didn't get a chance) and will change at 5000 and every 5k after that, even though the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is guaranteed for longer (full synthetic). My Jeep seems like she is happy, and these new jeeps make it very very easy to do it yourself! No way in hell I'm going any longer, and if I feel like she needs it sooner bc of my driving then I will be glad to keep her happy.
Cool video! It would be interesting to see how these new ultra thin oils perform against traditional oils when both are using the same type of base oil and additive package. While it's cool to see that a 0W-12 can perform as well as a 5W-30 in a lab test, it would also be great to see a true apples to apples comparison with the only difference being the viscosity.
Great suggestion!
i love your videos please just keep doing them
Thanks!
Thanks Lake. Great job. Good info. God bless. Happy trails.
Thanks!
Back on the farm, the combines we ran had variable drive on them as well, but it wasn't directly in the transmissions. Our International combines had a regular 3 speed transmission, then had a mechanically actuated belt drive on the side of the machine that gave almost infinite ground speed. Granted at top speed in 3rd gear, it maybe went 12 mph specifically for highway use, but the field speeds were pretty much miniscule adjustments. 1st and 2nd were the field gears and you operated the variable speed either by a hand lever on the floor or a foot lever depending on how old it was. It made for very easy forward motion control without changing the engine speed. The machine thrashing speed had to be maintained at a constant speed so changing ground speed has to be done separate from the engine speed and it's cumbersome to change gears. It worked fairly well. Our newest combine had hydrostatic transmission where the ground speed was contained within the transmission and actuated by a hand lever on the steering column. It used the same process to increase or decrease speed but it didn't have the big belt drive on the outside of the machine. It also didn't have a reverse gear, the hydrostat had the ability to move in reverse in whichever gear it was in by just pulling the lever back to the neutral position which stopped the forward motion, then continuing to pull backwards on the lever and the combine went in reverse. The variable speed combines did have reverse and the variable speed mechanism did operate in reverse too. It's kind of interesting that they modernized the process and put it into transmissions in modern cars. Subaru also has a CVT transmission too.
I'm a huge fan of these videos! Extremely educational and on a completely different level than most others on KZhead. 👍
Glad you like them!
Awesome video. Very interesting the lower viscosities are going.
Thanks! More to come!
I just bought a 2012 Jeep Liberty and I almost choked when the owners manual recommend 5W20. I was thinking the 5 is a good idea, thin oil gets to the upper parts fast meaning less wear at start up. But the 20 weight number bothered me. I was glad to learn what your findings were. I will probably not switch to a 0W8 for my vehicle unless Chrysler issues a recommendation for it. My mind just does not yet accept that much reduction in hot engine protection.
Man I didn't know ornl was doing research like that. Cool video and surprising info.
Glad you enjoyed!
Love your videos! Will be using your oil analysis to see how my Toyota vehicles are doing, I’m a firm believer of oil is cheap, engines are not😂
Rock on!
That CVT has a first gear. The engine uses Toyotas D4S system, it has both port and direct injection.
Seems like the most reliable way to do it, by using a standard gear set for getting the car moving to eliminate stress.
Toyota is the KING of making cars that work well and last long. I ❤️ Toyotas 😀💕🚗
Every oil you pulled out was black. No km No words. Lost. Mick Australia. Information you upload is great I appreciated. God bless mick Australia 🇦🇺
Thanks!
Sometimes thin oil kills engines that were not designed for thinner oil. Back in 2012 I was the camp manager for a man camp in the arctic. I had 2 generators one which ran 24 hours a day for 500 hours then I would switch to the secondary generator which would again run 24 hours a day until it reached 500 hours of run time. Back and forth. During the down time the generator on standby would get maintenance and the oil changed. Also the standby generator was always plugged into the running generator with several different block and battery heaters so that if needed it could be started instantly in very below F weather. The engines were never cold or cold started. One of the generators I had was a brand new Cat 500KW paired up with a 3000 hour Cat 500KW generator. One day the Cat dealer got the bright idea that because it was "cold" outside the generators should have "winter" Shell Rotella 5W-40 oil instead of the normal 15W-40. That was back when Shell Rotella only came in 2 flavors. The Cat engines both had HEWI injectors which are sensitive to oil or lack thereof. After the new Cat gen had its oil changed to the "winter" oil at about 400 hours it quit in the middle of the night. The generators would always quit in the middle of the night for what ever reason. The breakfast cook who worked at night would come and get me when the power went out. I would have to run out, start the secondary generator, Let it get up to speed and minimum temp then switch over the load to the running generator. Not quite as easy as it sounds when it is 30 below zero, or more, outside. The new Cat generator was toast cooling fast. They lost another Cat generator with the thin oil in a different camp for the same reason. The generators live in basically a plywood box outside that has to have the snow shoveled out to keep them clear. Part of the box had to be torn down to get a replacement gen installed. The replacement gen lasted almost 500 hours before the water pump went out again in the middle of the night when it was -45 degrees F. I started the secondary generator which I remembered also had the thin oil in it and called for repair of the primary gen. While I was waiting for the Cat mechanic for the first gen I called for an emergency oil change on the running secondary gen which had started making noise. The Cat mechanic got down to the bad water pump then said he didn't have another so would have to go steal the one off of the dead new generator. Mean while the secondary is starting to sound real bad even after the emergency oil change. It got down to the point where the mechanic working with the secondary told me that if I didn't shut it down it to was going to shell out. Long story short everyone in camp had arctic gear, the mechanic working on the primary gen told me that he could have it running in 1.5 hours so I shut down the secondary generator. 1.5 hours later after the camp inside temp had dropped to around 50 degrees and people were complaining I was thinking of an emergency evac to a warmer place, the primary came back on and I was able to restore heat. The secondary was never replaced or fixed, the primary ran for 6 weeks straight with arctic oil changes, pour new oil in as the old oil runs out until it is clear until the camp was moved. The moral of that story is that the wrong oil can kill engines and potentially people.
Man, you almost got me with that 10,000-mile first oil change 😅 I was like Motor Oil Geek let his daughter drive her car 10k miles without any intermitted oil change?! What? Hehe. Thanks for the informative video. I think car /engine manufacturers 'thin' the oil cuz the start-stop function to make the engine start easier, higher efficiency like less oil resistance/drag, and the even more strict emission
LOL, the fuel economy benefits of the thin oil is what makes them spec it.
@@themotoroilgeek0w30 (Mobil is the only one with this) literally disappears on bigger engines with looser tolerances. 5w and 10w30 is much less respectively. Even in winter, any mileage gain (couldn't see any) is way offset with the need to buy so much more top off oil.
They’ve had start stop for years now and no it has nothing to do with the engine oil being easier to start not sure what made that go through your mind the actual reason in MPG that’s the only reason. There’s a lost efficiency in pumping and by splashing the thicker oil but it breaks down much quicker if you look in any book from any manufacturer they all recommend a specific weight but will always have a chart in it for using other weight oils mostly thicker too
@@inductionbyforce8656 so what I wrote is the same as you repeated but with different words. What do you think less oil resistance means? Less drag, quicker oil pressure build, smaller tolerances on rings, pistons, bearings, etc. Splashing is nonsense, many cars for many years have oil baffles/windage trays to prevent oil splashing onto the crank... What do you think efficiency means? Higher mpg or in Europe less liters/100km, higher thermal efficiency. What do you think more strict emission means? Maximized amount of CO2, Hydrocarbons, NOx, and particle emission of an exhaust. Emission limits have essentially halved from EURO 5 to EURO 6. This is the drive for the innovations and engine efficiency to increase (downsize, forced induction, hybrid, using flame speed manipulation). You should also know that a vehicle manufacturer has a total annual emission limit also per manufactured car models/engines, look it up. I am using simple words because of other comment readers, to understand it easily, not to read words that they do not know how to pronounce, let alone understand.
The trick to see what oil you should actually run in your car is to check the manual in different countries to see what oil is listed. Most of these engines arent actually made for the thinner oil that is called for in the usa. Its just for mpg improvements and there so small its funny. I would never put anything less then a 20 weight in. Manufacturers can always put those "great" additives in there 8 weight oils in the heavier weights 🤷♂️
the way i see it is they are to meet EPA requirements so if 0W-8 works for 100K miles and the engine wares out that's the problem of the sec or 3rd owner. and 10k mile oil changes are ridicules 5k max.
Great video as always. I bought an air cooled Yamaha 650 Turbo, back in the day, tried all sorts of oils and viscosity’s. The gearbox also shared the engine oil. I changed the oil right around 3000 miles or when it became reluctant to shift gears or when the weather was very hot. Got over 120000 miles before I moved onto my next bike. Maintenance is absolutely necessary if you want the engine to last.
An XJ 650 turbo to compete with the Suzuki XN65 turbo the Honda cx500 turbo and the magnificent Kawasaki GPz 750 turbo I was 15 years of age back then, the Yamaha was the only bike to not go the fuel injection direction
Yamaha was very reluctant to go with fuel injection until they were basically forced to. They did try it on the GTS1000 along with an alternative front suspension system. A very cool bike, I had the pleasure of riding it when it was first released. Thanks for the comment 👍
@@paultruesdale7680 quick question Paul, what year did you buy the XJ turbo? My dad bought an XJ 650 new in blue back in 1985 and I remember the lovely whistle sound the engine made , I remember it cost just over 3 grand Irish pounds back in the day.
Sometime after the Seca 900 was released, I would say close to the end of 1983. I wanted the 900, but it was out of my price range and the Turbo was not selling, so the price was cut in half and it was being sold for 2500 dollars. I bought the bike and rode the crap out of it until my next bike the 1987 FZ600.
I’m a dirt bike guy but my one and only ever street bike was a Honda CX650 Turbo. Absolutely stunning looking bike, technologically andv for its time, and a very comfortable bike to ride and easy to maintain. A friend and I both bought one as new leftovers in 1984 or 1985 for I think $4K each. I eventually and unfortunately sold mine in pristine condition having a young family and not wanting the risks of a street bike. He kept his till he died of brain cancer but willed it to another friend of ours who still has it but it’s not running currently but is otherwise in mint condition and stored inside 24/7/365 Collector bikes now, wish I had never sold it.
Good stuff. I was very surprised when my sister’s Scion IQ required 0W-20. However, her engine required replacing even though she had routine oil changes done by the dealer. Now your talk about CVT fluid was interesting because a friend’s 2018 Corolla’s CVT broke at 83k miles. I wonder if it was a fluid problem. Dealer said $10k to replace. That didn’t happen. LOL
I had the dealer change the oil in my 2023 RAV4 at 1,000 miles, and then six months later, I brought it back for another change at 3,000 miles. My Toyota dealer surprised me when they said this one was free based on the date and not miles. They also rotated the tires. (Love the fluid sample pump)
Thanks for sharing that tidbit!
I just bought a Mazda CX-90 and asked about the free maintenance for a year. They couldn't give me a straight answer on how many times I could change my oil in a year or if it was based upon mileage
@@TheBasscow@TheBasscow Please listen to Lake Jr. and change it between 500 and 1000 miles the first time and every 5,000 or six months, whichever comes first after that. Pay if you have to because it's worth it.
i hope you check to make sure they actually changed it. dealerships check the oil and mileage and if the oil looks clean they dont change it but they pretend they did
@@cantwealljustgetalong2 I saw my RAV on the lift and draining the oil. I hope my Toyota delaer would never consider something so dishonest.
At this point I’m convinced we’re gonna go back to straight weight oils since I’m sure they’ll eventually make 0W-0 Oil
Just use water
LOL
As far as I know 0w16 can already be a straight weight oil since it’s representing two different scales. The Valvoline offering seems to be close.
Yeah that's the weird part, one of the benefits of synthetic is having a larger viscosity range. But 0W-8 is 1/3rd of conventional 5W-30.
You made me laugh. Thx.
Wow that's surprising that the dealer actually used the specified oil!! I've had cars where the dealer didn't use the recommended oil unless you explicitly told them to!
@themotoroilgeek please do a series or video comparing the amsoil levels like you did Pennzoil! I love seeing these details so I can make the best decision on my 2019 Civic Si. I plan to do big mods with it but for right now it's been my daily since I got it brand new in May of 2019. Thank you for your videos and science behind these oils!
Меняю масло в двигателе каждые 5000км(летом), а зимой каждые 4000км(из-за прогревов). И никаких проблем с двигателем! В автоматической коробке меняю жидкость каждые 30000км, заправляю полный объем методом вытеснения! Живу в Сибири, в ста километрах от Байкала!
Da kurva
Brrrrr! Stay warm.
That sounds good. Maybe change the oil more often in the winter, cold oil flows less easily, and how hot are summers in Siberia? Surely not as hot as southern USA.
@@RSole9999 я живу в Иркутске, летом до +35, зимой -45 по Цельсию! Климат, как в Канаде!
@@paul50002 Вы живете рядом с Гаражом 54, сибирским парнем с сумасшедшими автомобильными видео? Наверное, нет, ведь Россия такая огромная!
I can assure you, dealerships buy bulk oil from whoever gives them the best deal with the best perks. The Yota dealer I used to work for built a new building and Quaker State bought them two Rotary lifts and gave them two NASCAR body go-carts to get the contract. The GM dealer was using Kendall, Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep was on a Valvoline contract. They are not required to use a manufacturer’s oil. Hell, tons of places use BG for their trans flushes.
I haven't worked with CVT's much, but normal gear shifting transmissions definitely do better with BG. My manager at Chevy was working hard to get BG products going and the data and studies were very convincing. The BG work for CVT's, I'm told was better too, but it's been some years since I upgraded my life from being a mechanic, got into IT, but if AI takes a bunch of jobs, maybe I'll have to work on cars again. LOL Nah, I'm top at my IT experience level so that should add some safety for a while, especially since I can do a lot of hands on work that much of the IT industry can't do. Tell me who, other than a mechanic is going to figure out that the wall socket is dirty (clean on the outside). We have so many more variables we're usually fighting than with computer building. I hope they never get into computers like they did cars, intentionally making them hard to work on, but if they do, my automotive background will be huge. LOL I guess the car equivalent is bad gasoline, which happens most from customer errors.
Can depend. Dealership I work at, Dodge size uses bulk oil, chevy side uses bottled genuine ac-delco oil.
@@LovesHina It’s up to the franchise owner. It’s interesting that the owner is going through the heavy profit loss of using individual quarts, and on top of that rebadged bulk oil sold as AC Delco. I assure you, AC Delco does not own a refinery. Who knows what these owners think.
@@blackhawk7r221 I also find it a bit strange, as it does add a non insignificant amount of trash, and time to each oil change as well. I assumed it's a GM/Chevy thing, since they do have a few varieties of oil for different applications. Dexos 1, dexos 2, Dexos D.
@@LovesHina With the way the LS cams were being eaten up a while back, this may have been a measure to ensure that a legit factory approved oil was used. I doubt it, but like I said, we never know what’s going through the minds of owners. I’ve seen them do some oddball stuff.
Another great video, Lake but read up on Toyota's eCVT: no belts or cones, as others have pointed out. These newer transmissions also have an actual first gear for sharp getaways before the CVT takes over. Some clever shizzle...
Thanks for the info!
I trained as a mechnic and also spent many years on the superbike racing circuit. We experimented on fully synthetic low viscosity oils and found them wanting in maintaining a sufficiently safe hydraluic wedge. Many journals both crank and cam were lost as a result. Its your money but I would stick witha decent 5W-30 even if it means marginally higher fuel consumption.
I have to agree Lake that when you monitor it by samples you get the real data. My gut feeling is telling me to stay away from this water thin oils but the data show otherwise. So i have to adapt my auto mechanic brain.
Thinner oil is needed for tighter tolerance bearings. Tighter tolerance bearings wear less and last longer.
@@deelowe3false. The only real reason is tighter emissions and mileage requirements.
@@deelowe3 These Toyotas do not have tighter tolerances. That's an urban myth. These thinner oils are driven by C.A.F.E. standards pushing for ever more MPGs. Nothing more. In Australia the exact same engine is allowed to use oil even up to 10W40. Do the Aussie Corollas have lesser bearing tolerances?
Tolerances and design clearances are two entirely different things. Manufacturing tolerances have improved over the years, but engine bearing clearances are determined by factors outside of oil viscosity.
@@pete1342 You're right. I meant clearance, not tolerance.
Toyota Hybrid CVT is a e-CVT and dos not have a chain. It has a planatery gear set and 2 Electric motors.
I heard the hybrid CVT is indestructible
Lake your advice about cvt fluid was a hallelujah moment for me. My cvt calls for Toyota tc fluid but most out there seem to be universal fluids also covering later cvts requiring lower viscosity fluids. Other than genuine Toyota fluid, I can only find one fluid in New Zealand which only covers up to TC. It's the one I'll continue to use.
Love this geeky stuff man, keep it up. Don’t think you got any special treatment? Maybe would have been good to send your daughter in with the car lol
LOL, I don’t think they know who I am.
So, the manual says you can use 0W-16 but you must replace it with 0W-8 at the next oil change. I was surprised you didn't highlight that fact during the New Car oil change video you did with your daughter's car.
Correct, my 2024 Corolla owner's manual says that, but has the same decal as his under the hood. 0W-8 is now available through Walmart. Mobil came out with GLV-1 approved oil in March 2024.
That's just legalese for the EPA.
I think Geek did mention that in his video IIRC. He opened up the manual and clearly stated that 0w8 was the proper oil to use, but that 0w16 could be used if no 0w8 was available. I don't see how he could have been any more clear than that.
Anything lower than 0w40 is junk.
@@themotoroilgeekYep, all the cert. testing was done with the 0w8 oil.
Jesus... bless this dude and people watching hearts... wow.
Got my results after this commmercial…. Wild timing
It's great that the Henricks Toyota Dealer in Concord used the proper quality oils. I don't know the policy of Toyota over their dealers on what lubricants they're permitted to use. But typically dealerships will order in bulk from whatever oil distributor they get the best deal from. To be clear, whatever oils they use are not some cheap no-name oil. They will get a known quality name brand that we have all heard of. But it isn't always the "OEM" branded product.
I was pleasantly surprised as well!
As a hendrick Toyota Tech, I've only ever seen the toyota genuine oil ordered in bulk, I see pallets of the shit piled in parts every time I go to grab a box, we have pumps for 0w-20, 5w-20, and 5w-30. They use a synthetic blend so I've heard from the older techs, when it comes to off brand vehicles we usually source what they recommend (Mobil1, DEXOS, etc...) if the manufacturer doesn't specify what the vehicle needs then they get whatever is coming out of the pump. My favorite oil I've seen was this green shit we had to special order for a BMW weird euro spec stuff
@@S1Lent_Wanderer Thanks for sharing!
@@S1Lent_Wanderer Good to hear that your dealership makes this effort. Many don't. I know of a Chevrolet Dealer and a Dodge dealer for example that buy the lowest priced stuff in a drum they can get at the time they order more oil for their service departments. Even then, it is good oil and isn't really likely to hurt anything. I know that the Dodge Dealer gets a 0W/20 and a 10W/30 no name synthetic and the same weights in a conventional no name oil.
Funny how you turned your daughters car into a science experiment
Holy moly this is the first time I’ve hearing of these type of viscosities
Being that you’re a Porsche owner, I’d appreciate if you do a video on the Liqui-Moly oil from Germany. Appreciate your informative channel.
Hey! Love your channel man! I was wondering if you could make a video between fluid recommendations from the 70s compared to the more modern fluids available nowadays; For example SAE 50 and 30 that used to be recommended for Differentials/Transmissions/Transfer cases and the newer 75w90 and 80w90 more modern gear oils. Can modern fluids be used on older applications (70s fords, gmcs and such)?
Great suggestion!
The 5.7 Toyota tundra engine in other countries list 530 as the supposed to be running. Living in the heat of the south I’m considering changing mine from 0:20 to 5:30. A lot on the tundra groups have done that. I think the best thing to do is to try 530 and do oil analysis for both at 5000 miles
I run 5w-30 in my new to me 4runner. Driving in a heat index of 110degrees plus is no joke
I've still been using 0W20 in my 2020 Tundra but keep wondering if I should use 5w30 due to so many people stating that is better and what they use.
Thats been going on for a while after the cafe standards. My car is specd for 5-20, but its 5-30 in all other parts of the world where its sold and its a 2007
If you use the same brand/class of oil, you can mix viscosities to make up your own. I’ve been doing it for years.
I doubt it makes much difference, Toyota designed the engine to run on 0W-20 and the 0W part of the equation is actually an advantage in winter as it will reduce cold start wear.
I really like your videps and I appreciate the information. Have you ever reviewed Valvoline Maxlife ATF?
You should do a video for people starting out learning to change their own oil. Never done it my self and always relied on the dealership to do it. Honestly afraid afraid too, keep hearing horror stories of people stripping out the drain plug lol . Thanks
There may be several videos on KZhead for changing oil on your make and model. Drain plug torque specs can be found as well. Oil filter is usually hand tight. I use ramps instead of jack stands and jack .
You can do it. Take your time and have the right tools and materials. As others noted, watch a bunch of YT videos on it. Above all, make sure the car is lifted safely and NEVER go under it supported only by a jack.
Watch a KZhead video for your specific vehicle. Initial investment for tools pays off quick. Just be careful as some vehicles trans drain plugs are similar in appearance and close by the oil drain plug. Take your time and enjoy the experience !
changing your oil and filter is literally the easiest thing you can do for Maintenace and the most important
@@StrongerThanBigfoot Some cartridge oil filters (I think Land Rover Ford PSA 2.7 diesel IIRC) have pernickety gaskets that novices can install wrong causing a catastrophic oil leak. 😬
Wow, at 6:00 2300rpm and the car is accelerating just fine. What a good engine/transmission, I can feel the efficiency through the screen.
Modern direct injection engines have good low end torque. I was surprised by that too when I got my 2.7 v6 f150, that's a fairly little engine and it'll happily go down to 1200rpm while driving and going 80 it's still under 2k rpm. Acceleration with a loaded 5klb trailer doesn't require it to rev like crazy either. Any of my "traditional" engines from the past would be seriously lugging and lacking power at those rev ranges.
My 24 Crosstrek behaves exactly the same way. It only simulates "shifts" if you be aggressive with it.
Carbon build up
Yes. In South Aurora. But I am not a musician. I am a classical organist. (Responding to the guitar teacher's ad before the video.) Our 2023 RX350h takes 0W-16. Change at ~7,500 miles. Mostly highway/Interstate driving. I lethe oil drain all night. *Mobil1 0W-20 full synthetic* for Hybrid engines.
Great content, love the hard science. Would like to see a test on re refined motor oil and the stats compared to conventional and synthetic.
Great suggestion!
0W0 coming up lol
😂 I was going to say the same thing
So I work at a Toyota dealership and I've done a good amount of oil changes with 0w 8 mostly on crowns with the 2.5. The first ever oil change I did with 0w 8 I was blown away by how thin is was, it almost feels like coolant. But my dealership doesn't cheap out with Toyota cares and dealership free oil changes, if it says to use 0w 8 that's what we use. But just being honest I am skeptical of 0w 8, mainly running it hot weather and running to low on oil I feel like it will thin even more than what it all ready is. I heard the main reason why Toyota uses 0w 8 is for better fuel economy but I feel that it's a bit of stretch to say it will do so. But how ever though I do see 0w 8 being great in very cold temperature weather where it will help the engine get lubed up faster. Really only time will tell how good 0w 8 will be, maybe it will be a good oil. 0w 20 is a good oil and I know people were skeptical of that when it first came out.
Thanks for sharing. I’m very interested to see the results compared to the 0W-16
There's one paramater most people don't know or forget about - the Viscosity index. The higher it is the better will oil retain the viscosity with rising temps.
0W40 is as good as 0W8 in cold weather. 0winter40 is same as 0winter8 at cold temp startup.
It was always 15-w40 now to 5w-30, which i think is thin. I was amazed by 0-w8 oil
Question for you Lake! My car (stock Fiesta ST) calls for 5w-20. And I’m going to be upgrading my turbo and the manufacturer (Turbo Technics) recommends 5w-30 for street use, and I believe it’s 10w-40 for track use. In this video it perfect showcases that oil viscosity isn’t the only factor to consider. So my question is… why do I need to step up to 5w-30? And should I be using 5w-30 for my car now? This is my fun car so anytime I’m driving it, the thing is being pushed kinda hard! I appreciate your hard work and thank you for sharing your expert opinion!❤❤❤
5w-30 is thicker when warm, thicker oil provides more cushion for bearings and other parts; turbos spin at a ridiculously high rpm and need the extra “support” that thicker oil can provide. They say 10w40 (even thicker still obv) for track because well, track is constant high rpm and high heat use, it’s extra hard on the engine oil so you use a thicker oil to give you a little extra cushion
The problem with super thin oil isn't lubrication, its a combo of the low tension and thin oil control rings, and the thin oil getting past them. As the miles go by and usually out of the warranty period, the thin rings carbon over and oil use goes way up, especially if oil change intervals are not well adhered to. An inattentive owner can easily run low on oil and lose an engine. This happens a lot to KIA and Hyundai owners especially. I enjoy the "I Do Cars" YT channel, Eric over there tears down blown up engines and all of them that spec OW20 oil have carboned up and usually stuck rings. What I see from the engine tear downs is distressed oil control rings cause excessive oil use, which leads to running low on oil, resulting in spun crank bearings. The rod and main bearings generally look fine with the thin oil as long as the level is maintained and something else caused the engine to die, like driving it through deep water. Clearly thin oil lubricates well, the issue is the darn thin oil control rings. Manufacturers are reaching too far to eek every last fractional MPG out of modern engines. I wager if manufacturers used wider stronger oil control rings there would be no problem at all with thin fully synthetic oil, which does enjoy the advantage of quick flow on startup. As things are, a 10K oil change interval is way too long for watery thin oil in combo with thin oil control rings. I would do it every 5K at most. My wife's car specifies 0W20, I run 5W30 and oil consumption dropped to almost zero during it's 5K interval. I also believe that the slightly heavier but by no means "heavy" oil helps with preventing the carboned up thin oil control ring issue. I have a diesel pickup running T6 5W40 diesel oil, after 7.5K miles it's iron reading is around 13-15 PPM, which is less around half what the 4 PPM per 1K miles results were here as well. It has nice old school full sized oil control rings, and uses half a quart every 7.5K miles. If anyone reading this drives a newer KIA or Hyundai, I suggest using 10W30 oil, and keeping an eye on the oil level. It is good for all of us to just make a habit of checking the oil level at every fill up. There is no reason to lose an engine.
My friend's Kia has just seized during driving. No oil light flicker, no clatter on hard turns. Was quiet and smooth then seized. No oil left. It went from almost no consumption to enough to drain it between oil changes. She always takes it to our trusted mechanic so I believe it was changed correctly. I bet it has control ring problems. We have a Vitz (Yarris) that loves oil too. I just keep an eye on the level and we use a higher viscosity now that it has higher kms on it. Not worth stripping it down to do the rings
@@tenmillionvolts Sorry to hear about your friend's engine. Sounds like you are on the right track with yours though.
That's what the engineer at Engineering Explained claims! But I'm old-fashioned: I purchased my wife a KIA Sportage, which calls for 0W-20 oil, but I used 5W-20 and NO change in the MPG was noticed! At this point, I'm very hesitant to use 0W-20 viscosity oil. Considering that we live down at Puerto Rico, where high temperatures prevail, going a notch up in viscosity won't affect the engine!