What is the black magic behind our unique Original Prusa i3 MK2's Calibration XYZ?
2016 ж. 18 Қыр.
886 824 Рет қаралды
Worried that your 3D printer assembly was a bit off? The Original Prusa i3 MK2 unique Calibrate XYZ function offers perfect 3D printing anyway! Since 3.0.6 firmware, the printer can automatically find the calibration points and because it knows its geometry (how skewed the axes are) it can correct it live during the print as it does with automatic mesh bed levelling. MK2 is the first printer on the planet with this ability! You can read more about it at prusaprinters.org/first-printe...
Video made by Dominik Císař
great video, great product. What isn't mentioned is the spectacular customer support! 24/7 service. So many companies could take lessons from the way Josef developed this product and this company. Thank you Josef for making this great product and great company.
I echo your sentiments mate, it's an awesome machine, designed and supported by superb people. Had mine for about 3 weeks now and it's better than I could have wished for.
I was watching your i2 videos from back in the day. You've come a long way, but still have the forward thinking you had back then!
My first printer and I love it. Customer Service helped me through some initial calibration hiccups and now its chugging along a week in and I have a table full of amazing prints. Been doing a video series about it and looking forward to showing off my 1 month point with all the stuff made. I'm do hooked, and thrilled I started with this rig
Just built my brand new MK2, oooh baby she is so sweet. Thank you for an amazing product.
Thank you!
I could really use one of these. The quality is just fantastic on these printers, as well as consistent. Keep up the good work!
That's a really elegant and intelligent solution! That's real engineering! Congratulations!
Cool video. I've been loving my mk2 :-) keep up the awesome work Prusa!
Just got this and the thing works incredibly well
NICE~! I will get the upgrade MK2 kit for the Original MK1 ! thank you for this video it makes me excited :)
you are awesome man :) can't wait until I received mine next week :D
This is realy AMAZING! Good work.
Seriously could have used this feature on my Witbox a few months back. Had to muscle it back into the correct position and stop it from printing crooked. Seriously great looking machine
Top notch ! Prusa FTW :D Thanks Joe
I bought my mk2 a few weeks ago. It's performance has been great. We have two 3D printers at work of varying costs. The MK2 simply provides the best performance value.
This is definitely the printer I will be getting, as soon as I can come up with the funds.
My kit arrives tomorrow :)
Hi Josef, I'm a i3 user since 2015. Great idea for a printer, fantastic machine, thank you very much for your work. About MK2, my first impression is that Z-axis mesh auto bed leveling is realy cool. I've tried many solutions in the past, and this is the best. The other thing for XY calibration I think it'is nice, but not so important, because once you build correctly the printer, I dont know why the bed will turn or skew during normal use. Maybe this calibration is important once, the first time after build, or maybe after a change of the printer. But my opinion is, do this procedure before every printing job, maybe it's just a waste of time. I know that XZ calibration is included in bed calibration. But what about YZ calibration? Because, from my point of view, this is, maybe, the critical weak point of printer's structure. Many times I wonder about the vibration effect during printing job on this YZ calibration. How can I be sure that a vertical line is always vertical? I see that you use the power supply mount as an adding measure to help keeping this YZ angle 90 degrees, but I'm not sure yet if this is enough... Maybe its a great idea to see a solution to this in MK3. This multicolor update is very important and awesome upgrade. I like a lot your approach on this, It's the best for the moment. thank you!
Spent 2 hours trying to level bed of my $250 i3 clone (probably ~450 after all the upgrades I've done....) Still couldn't get it to print reliably. Then I stumbled across this video. Guess it's time to start saving...
Hey man im pretty late with the response. But i did the same mistake as you. Bought an CR-10S from Gearbest which only gave me headaches trying to solve the countless problems i encountered. I probably invested over 700 Euros (with upogrades) in total. And now i just bought the Prusa MK3 because i just want to be able to print consistently
beautiful!
Great printer! will definitely get on of these when I have the chance. I was wondering, would it be possible for me to replicate this on a much larger CoreXY machine? what hardware would I require? Does it use magnetic points or is it just inductive according to the the points only being metal and the rest of the bed pcb? Thanks.
I GOT A PRUSA! ITS REALLY COOL! AWESOME PRINTER!
So cool, i want one, don't know when I'm able to get it though
What about accounting for misalignment between the bed and it's linear slides and trapezoid and twist in the vertical axis?
Is this also a feature of the Prusa Mini?
Wow. That's really Impressive :O
Awesomeness!
But what about Z-axis perpendicularity with regard to the bed? Is that included in the calibration? Cool feature, anyway!
As far as I understood the mesh bed leveling does the job.
congratulations for your technical excellence! mind if I asl, even with the PEI coating, is it possible to use a glass over the heatbed (by configuring a proper z offset) or it will conflict with the inductive probe mechanism?
It would surely obstruct the pinda probe from seeing the calibration points and also the glass may not be flat ect. The entire point of the pei sheet is to not have to use glass. The only time I have to use glue or hairspray is when I print tpu and it's time keep it from sticking so much.
I think you are oversimplifying. PEI is just an adhesive coating, it does not perform the same function as the glass so you would not need it - glass isn't an adhesive, to start with. The glass manufacturing process is one of the processes that achieves the most flatness - even the cheap ones - , so that's one of the advantages actually, and it even serves the purpose of straightening up the PCB or aluminium bed underneath. Also, the other biggest advantage of the glass is being removable so if some part if strongly bonded to it, or if it is dirty, you can easily wash it or bath it to unstick the part without mechanical force. And lastly, it is a consumable and it is cheap, so if it breaks you just replace for another one - here where I leave a 2mm or 3mm glass costs about US$ 2 per piece, not a big deal specially compared to a US$ 30-50 heatbed.
Thats most likely why Prusa went with such a thick PCB for the heatbed design, (to make it less likely to warp) The thickness + the mesh bed leveing should always allow for a even print.
HEY BROZ - CAN I ACTUALLY STICK MK2 IN TO A LATEST BIGGEST PRUSA PRINTERS LIKA i3 300x300x420mm ???
The Robothut you tube channel ordered a kit a few days ago, so soon all the custom 3d printed robot I do will be completed on this machine I hope !
Wow, I like! Is the Mesh Bed Levelling automatic? In Marlin 1.1 RC7 it's still a manual process. I'd love to be able to use the induction probe for mesh bed levelling automatically.
Yes, the bed levelling is automatic. They have re-written sections of Marlin. I understand that Marlin are incorporating the Prusa code improvements into the firmware.
Spike Kent Great. So automatic Mesh Bed levelling is not in Marlin at the moment, but it's coming? Sweet!
The MK2 is open source and the firmware is available here github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/tree/MK2
+Tech2C Hello there, the automatic bed leveling mechanism is not in the RC branch but on a dedicated one based of Marlin RC6, you can access it from here: github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/tree/devel-ubl
Really amazing product! Unfortunately cannot afford so I had to buy anet a8 which is now giving me headaches.
i wish they would try to get the prices down a little.
isn't having an enclosed printer like the creator pro important for temperature control while printing in ABS and other filaments? I apologize for my inexperience. :)
One dislike from Bre Pettis))
Haha
I just wish the MK4 had this.
doesnt mesh bed levelling end up in a not level part(in an extreme case)?
Sometimes, particularly in high humidity climates.
nah the Z height still neeeds to be done manually. because even if the MB knows where the prob is, there is no way it knows where the nozzle is. because there is no relation ship between the nozzle and the probe.
WOA BRO JUST WOA
still don't understand this 2:06 thing. if it compensate the bed automatically then why should we adjust the z-probe value manually in the lcd screen?
I think because when you build and then calibrate the printer, it knows the exact height of the probe, but the print head might actually be not at the perfect height as the probe is height adjustable with some nuts. So you can adjust the height of z-axis as it prints a test line, until it prints at the perfect height to get the filament to stick well.
Sorry if I'm teaching Grandma to suck eggs (don't know your level of experience), but sometimes you want to squidge the first layer onto the bed more for example. An example would be when the base of the print doesn't have much contact area, so you _really_ push the first layer onto the bed and also make the filament bead of the first layer wider as a result -- you don't always do that as prints with a larger contact area would be difficult to get off the bed, and you end up with prints whose bottom layer a slightly large, and any small but intended gaps are bridged by the wider-than-normal bead of filament. Another case would be when using a filament that doesn't stick so well (nylon for example) -- again you may want the bottom layer to use the usual amount of filament but be, say, 75% the height. You can do the above in your slicer but sometimes you may decide to do it by adjusting Z=0. Just a couple of examples, but you get the general idea? And what @Spaghettikid said as well -- getting the width of the extrusion onto the very first layer absolutely spot-on.
The only thing the printer cannot know and adjust on it's own is relative height of nozzle and the probe, so that's why you have to add that information to the system by manually adjusting
than we do this thing for every layer height changes? I mean today I want to print something with .2mm layer height tomorrow .05mm layer height..
What? No. It doesn't matter what the layer height is. What matters is where the first layer should be printed, the zero point. You have to do it every time you physically move the probe (never unless it breaks) or for example if you used different nozzle of different size (but they are usually all equally tall)
It works. It just works.
Fu**ing amazing printer.
Wow !
oh the irony misspelling the word "assembled" after the word, "accurately". ;)
If you are looking for a afordable and easy to use 3d printer. this the what you want.
Best
I want one
What do you need to send me one please?
@@pausecafe8533 MK2 is outdated. Mk3s is the new shit. And they sell it online.
fucked me up at 1:31 lol
*Assembled
12 please :) haha
can you give me 1 this xmas ? :-(
annoying music but cool tech
Oh no, don´t tell your secrets to the chinese man!