Adam Savage Builds His Dream Automatic Hacksaw!
Adam repairs and retrofits a tool he's always wanted in the cave: a powered electric hacksaw for cutting through large pieces of metal stock! This vintage Craftsman hacksaw is in need of dire restoration, and Adam takes it apart and rebuilds it to get it working on a chunks of steel and cast iron. What secret project could Adam be using this saw on next?
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Saw's running in reverse, btw. :D
@@asertayou're right the bolty thing will undo itself.
Sounds more like "No Way" 😂
@@associatedblacksheepandmisfits That's a thing, but the other is the saw isn't running at it it's best. It's designed to cut on pull, it's cutting on push (in reverse). I wonder how that happened. Likely the "adjustment" isn't an adjustment it's a speed control/direction and it got nudged in the wrong direction (the thing hidden by the bit of perspex).
The motor is a Repulsion Start Induction Run motor the lever on the back will adjust its speed and reverse it,
Adam, chip clearance is the problem. You've got a blade with a section of teeth that never leave the material because the material is wider than the stroke of the saw. So you've got chips trapped in those teeth holding the blade up and keeping it from digging in all the way on each stroke. Which is why horizontal bandsaws replaced electric hacksaws.
Yep, needs to be angled to add self-clearancing and also that it is running in reverse.
No matter how you configure it, this just can't beat a horizontal band saw with coolant.
@@jakester455 They worked fine. In a small shop many folks would start a cut on the saw, have a cut going on the shaper, and maybe run a job on the lathe or mill at the same time. Both the power hacksaw and the shaper would just stop at the end of the cut so the machinist would go back to them once they had completed a cut. Overall in the 70's most small shops did not have a band welder to make bandsaw blades and a good blade for a horizontal band saw was a little spendy. We would get months of use out of a good power hacksaw blade. One semi local place still sells power hacksaw blades, they said for every 1 they sell to use on an actual power hacksaw they sell 6 to people wanting to make knives out of them.
@@jakester455 A recirculating coolant/lubrication system for the cutting surface would certainly be the first thing I'd add after getting the thing basically running
@@MrAnviljenkins worn-out power hacksaw blades make great knives for rough work /bush craft most blades are bi-metal tool steel. i worked in a engineering shop we had both a auto feed and stop band saw and a power hacksaw along with friction cut-off saws, a guillotine and a punch and shear. we made farm implements and other general machining and fab work
Releasing the bolt & dropping the motor on the floor killed me 😂. Thanks for being Human Adam.
I'm just glad it didn't land on his foot. lol
not to mention when he stood it up after putting it back together. i winced so hard when i saw it wobbling and then crash onto the floor. *wince
For a maker with his own shop he's really clumsy sometimes.
@@Okurka. Everyone's human. We all make mistakes like that from time to time and Adam is no exception.
@@77josh77 Most humans learn from their mistakes.
Such great information! Two comments: 1- Your saw is running in reverse. There is an arrow on the large gear that indicates the direction of rotation. This is also why the screw holding it in place is left hand threaded, so that it doesn't come un-screwed while the saw is running. 2- Your ghost marks on the cut face are an artifact of the saw blade tooth spacing, dependent upon the spacing between opposite set teeth.
If there's a 50% of doing something wrong then Adam is in that 50%.
Am I the only one bothered by the drive wheel spinning contrary to the arrow on it? This reminds me of working with my dad on tools like this. Good stuff.
You most definitely are NOT alone.
It is supposed to cut on the return stroke, blade is the wrong way around and also rotating in the wrong direction
Not as bothered as I am by hearing Adam refer to himself as an "engineer".
I came to say the same thing!
Bingo.
Did that opening shot make anyone else think of John Henry competing against a machine? 😂
Yes!!! I loved that story when I was little
Getting to see Adam's saw dance!
Made me think of Matthias Wandel competing with a CNC to make a gear.
Lawd, lawd
100%
I’ve got this same saw, and did a restoration video on it, so it makes me very happy to think that Adam might have watched my video and took notes. 😊 I’m going to agree with everyone else who is saying you’re running it backwards. (It even has an arrow on the crank wheel. It should be cutting on the pull stroke (pulling against the fixed jaw of the vise) and lifting up on the push stroke. Some of these (including mine) and auto-shut offs. It wouldn’t be too hard to add one, and it’s a super handy feature to have.
I immediately thought of you when I watched this video on the saw.
Great...yours is probably another channel that I'm going to have to subscribe to.
@@sstockemer his channel is great. One of my favorites.
@N.Cognito I'm not going to argue. I'm just a software dev. This sounds bizarre, but i very much enjoy tool restoration content while I'm working. It's cathartic and I can usually learn something.
@@sstockemer I don't listen to it when I am actually developing, but I find it a very cathartic down time thing just to relax, it's like it scratches an itch in a different part of my brain. I also find many of Adam's attitudes and approaches oddly applicable to debugging and designing solutions. Good to know I am not the only one.
My day is made, just sat down at my desk and popped open youtube to see an over-hour long video of Adam building something funky 😄
I came to the channel late, but Adam you know to use a V block to improve clamp force and stability on round stock, you even made a curved block of wood, then immediately ignored that you needed one on the clamps and c-clamps. Doh! As someone else suggested a chain clamp would be a wonderful upgrade and also a micro switch & relay auto-shutoff when the unit makes it through the stock. Bore those crank rods out and add ball bearings, add some compressed air to blow air at the side of the exiting blade teeth to discharge chips, and a gravity oil feed for blade lubricant. Overall this was a joy to watch. And My Dad brought me home broken drills, saws, othwr tools and coffee makers to take apart when i was probably 7-10, i loved learning how things worked. Enjoyed your stories. Well done
Adam was a complete menace for about 10 minutes of this
"I've needed something like this", goes through my head every time a see a new tool.
Or, "I'm going to need something like this!" I use either variation, LOL.
The toothed wheel is running backyards. Look at the arrow indicating direction of rotation. This can very well hamper it's efficacy. A.i. less torque when cutting on the pull.
It has been 3 months... ... since I started cutting through this steel!
I absolutely love seeing Adam (and other makers we hold in high regard) make the same mistakes that I / we as makers all make. Its one of the great bonds between all of us!
Funny how we sound more like ours dads as we age. But I agree that sadly everything is made disposable now. Seeing an old peace like that, that is almost 60 years old, and still works great is a true testament!
35:00 After spending considerable time making a lovely big on/off switch, the machine jams up and Adam instinctively goes around the convenient OFF button he built and wrestles the belt/pulley drive with his hands and flips out the belt to stop the jam. This channel never fails to entertain. Love it.
I've only been watching Adam's channel for about 6 months. One thing that surprises me is he's" very bull to the gate" in the way he works! He has all the time in the world but he rushes like he's on a tight deadline! I completely restored a 1963 Shima power hacksaw a couple of years ago. I have a sandblasting cabinet so I blasted it. One thing about cast iron is that it comes up awesome out of the sand blaster. One of the casting legs is a coolant reservoir that I got going again. It has an 18 inch blade! The thing is lethal and does not differentiate between metal or flesh!
For someone as artistically talented as he is, he is quite blustery. I think he gets excited about what he's doing and becomes careless.
i like that too.... i like to go and get shit done without adding unnecessary extra steps or having OCD like alot of people have and once done, you move on to the next project.... no need to over complicate simple things
seeing adam clumsily use a screwdriver to pry out the machine when 2 days ago he showed off his teeny prybar is hilarious to me
I am not one to take someone like Adam to task. He is vastly more expert than I will ever be, and I DO NOT like making comments like this However, Adam cut several pieces and looked at the drive wheel repeatedly, There is a directional arrow on the drive wheel. The saw is running backwards, Unlike HAND HELD saws, this saw runs on the DRAW stroke. So the blade is in backwards, and the saw itself is running backwards. This is why he had so much trouble with the stock. I have used these TYPE machines before, I thought that the thing was running backwards (in the opposite direction Adams is) and was told this; "No Bob, the power of the stroke comes from the downward and to the back movement. When the saw runs that way the machines mechanical power is used to make it cut easier, instead of relying totally on the blades cutting action". A simple oversight Adam. Make the saw run the other way, and turn the blade around. You may just be pleasantly surprised. I could be wrong, but the arrow on the wheel says I'm not. ;-)
first thing we ever did in metalwork at school at 11, used the ww2 era auto hacksaw in the metalwork shop to cut 3/4 inch square bar into cubes and add punch marks to make steel dice
I know you've covered this on the channel before to some extent, but working on old bicycles is another avenue. Rebuilding a 60s Schwinn into a solid commuter bike was a big part of reawakening the nascent maker in me.
lawn mowers too. my brothers a mechanic and when he was younger and couldnt afford cars or car engines he borrowed second hand old lawn mowers off my uncles who in turn played with them when they were children. a really good way for my brother to familiarise himself with a basic engine. hes a very skilled and intuitive mechanic now
So, you're just not gonna address the fact the machine is running in the wrong direction? Look at the arrow on the large geared wheel, Adam! It's rotating in the wrong direction!
Oh shit…. I didn’t notice that at all 😂😂😂😂
A few months ago at my welding school our TCM-100 cutting machine stopped working. I pulled out our spare machine and it lasted only a few minutes. I was so grateful my boss let me go ahead and make one machine out of two. They are expensive but still a new tool that is user serviceable. At the end of the day having never even seen the inside of one of these I had a wonderful understanding of how they worked. I was luckily able to get us back up and running with one of our most critical pieces of equipment. Some companies still make good quality serviceable tools and I was extremely great full that day. And I got your same endorphin rush when it worked.
Speaking of repairing cars, that little "loosen up dance" you did after sawing that chunk of steel by hand reminded me of all the periodic flopping around I did last night while dealing with a stuck-on Freightliner oil filter. The actual work wasn't as hard, I don't think, but the angles I had to work with - on the ground, trying to hammer screwdrivers into the filter to torque it off in the limited space afforded by the frame, while trying to keep an oil pan under it all to keep from making a mess in the customer's lot - were an ergonomic nightmare, making it a similarly difficult job. This is why tools were invented, to make these difficult tasks easier, and I'm glad you got one that'll make (most) of your metal sawing easier!
My Dad is a jack of all trades, did a lot of stuff similar to you in his younger years. (Not the TV stuff) Just construction, engineering, fixing and building things. He was always criticizing me for taking stuff apart, never putting them back together, organizing left overs, stuff like that. I did eventually teach myself, but he never gave me the space or the critique to deal with the left overs, so I moved on to programming. He couldn't see my code, software, etc, nor does he understand it. lmao I got better about the aftermath working with and repairing PCs and cable management, but it was a hard learn over time. I can still tinker and build basic things. Recently did some simple repairs on the wife's car and it was definitely endorphin filled. I didn't feel like a genius, but I definitely felt useful and really, that's all anyone can ask for.
I have found that motorcycles, even the advanced sports bikes, are still a very good platform for getting into mechanical systems. Repair manuals are somewhat easy to come by, and the space required to actually perform repairs is a lot less than what is needed for a car.
Cheap and affordable motorcycles often run on comparatively antique components compared to comparable year model cars and trucks.
Vintage sewing machines are another great avenue, and cheaper still. And, bonus, it's pretty clean work, too.
Lawn tractors aren't a bad way to go either.
@@tay13666 Agreed
I have an old 1940s Delta 14” bandsaw, i found it on craigslist for $60 in rough shape and talked to the guy selling it, there were other folks interested but nobody could give him a solid time to come get it. I said I could be there first thing tomorrow morning, he said it worked for him, and the next day im hauling it home. This bandsaw is the ur-bandsaw, the saw that all 14” bandsaws made since are made in emulation of. Consequently there are parts readily available for all the pieces I could conceivably have wear out, and I can work on it with just a wrench and a screwdriver. It has a backgear mechanism by which a lever can be flipped and a belt swapped to allow it to cut various metals as well as the standard fare of wood and other soft materials. Its my pride and joy. Theres one problem: the motor it came with was in awful shape, and its a 1/2 horsepower motor. I have a gorgeous, period correct 1 HP motor I would love to attach to get this beast running, but the motor shaft is 3/4” and the stepped pulley I have is only 1/2” and cant be bored out as its a relatively hollow white metal casting. I wish I could find either the original Delta pulley # 718 with a 3/4 bore, or find someone able to make a suitably sized pulley. It seems like a fairly simple project but I dont have a lathe. So thats the one piece of this puzzle thats holding me back and keeping me from being able to use this beauty of an old tool.
Hey Adam, thanks for the videos and sharing your stories :) One of my Volvo Engine Mounts moments was when I came back from holidays and my old laser printer had gone into a continuous power cycle loop. It was the weirdest thing. I could have gone out and bought another printer but I couldn't help take it apart and have a look. Found leaking caps on the power supply and fixed it with a $2 cap which allowed me to keep using it for another year. Moments like that are what keeps me in the work that I do. Unfortunately it only happens every few years now but I think it's got to do with the fact that my job is fixing problems every day. But sometimes, there are those golden moments 🙂 I've learnt so much breaking and taking things apart. Thanks for your inspiration and wise words!
Adam, make your bushing! In 2009, I made a concentric bushing to fix the threading lever of the lath, on the lath! Still proud of that shot!
Take it from one maker of a similar disposition to another -- putting crimped ferrules on the ends of stranded wire would make you happier than you probably think. It's not functionally necessary, but it feels so proper and the tool you use is so satisfying.
I have almost this exact saw, and I love it. It has almost zero utility to me, but I hold on to it anyway because it is just so cool. You are running it backwards; though I don't think it makes too much of a difference with a hacksaw blade but cutting on the upper stroke of the wheel may supply more downward force on the workpiece and make a more efficient cut.
hack saw blades normally cut on the push stroke so when you draw back it clears the cut
Saw that acrylic shatter coming a mile away. You need to support the drill point as it exits, just clamp the work piece to another scrap and drill through both, can even use standard HSS bits unmodified.
My go to method is just stepping up bit sizes. I use normal everyday bits and just start tiny and work up. Works great if not doing it all the time. I think the reason it works so well is because you are scrapping the sides and using minimal tip, and the tip is what catches and chips then shatters it.
Fixing old mopeds has given me the same feel of successes that you discribe. The level of satisfaction I get from starting up an old engine that, before I fixed it, was in boxes, is just fenomenal! And getting to apply that learning into engineering is really a great feeling aswell.
I’m sure you’ve thought of it, but a couple of possible additions. Fabricating a handle that attaches to the fixed portion of the arm will allow you to gently lower the blade onto the material without trying to hang onto the reciprocating section; same for raising it up again. Though it would be a bit more work, I think of my portable bandsaw having a switch positioned so that the saw going completely through the work makes contact and shuts off the saw. Handy if you’re letting the saw do its long work while you are otherwise engaged hither and yon in the shop.
Metal has stress. It changes shape as you relieve the stress with cuts. Drop a wedge in behind the blade on an insane cut like that. Watch some tree cutting videos for an example. August Hunicke would be my trusted go to. A riving knife, on a table saw, does the same thing. It also provides safety from the momentum involved, beyond binding on the blade.
I love that the stand was mounted to an old cabinet door. I feel I could tell you a lot about the man who owned this based on that fact alone.
One day I will have the confidence to pull something apart with the belief that it will ever go back together the same way again
Adam! I'm at 56:56 and can no longer hold my tongue (keyboard). Rig up a chain wrench to clamp your workpiece. If done properly, it will conform to any shape and apply force toward both the back vertical jaw and the horizontal base of the machine. Also, since you are doing such great improvements to the machine, think about rigging up a slow drip cutting oil dispenser for the blade. If you use tap magic, water soluble cutting oil, etc., you will drastically speed up your cutting times, improve kerf accuracy, reduce drift, and extend the life of your blades. 😉 Beware that a tool like that does not stop when you press the stop button! And keep your hands away from that workpiece whenever it's reciprocating!!! I winced every time you did it.
i was wondering why he didnt just hack the rest of that c beam for another jaw on the other side of the workpiece?
For the old wire issue. It's gonna be oxidation (effectively rust) a good flush and some heat will sort it. For big cable get spot with the brush in the lid. And start with window open and a fan rather than after inhaling the forbidden smoke
I gotta tell you, my heart skipped a beat. As that motor was rolling off your bench, I dove to catch it. Much to the surprise of my cat, who was laying under my tv.
FYI when drilling acrylic you have to keep the bit cool, spray the work if you can and if you need to keep water stains to a minimum keep a cup of water near and dip the bit. The Acrylic heats up and melts around your bit causing it to crack when it cools down. Run the low speed of the drill as well.
Another tip is to use a stone to hit the cutting edge so it isn't a sharp edge and it will prevent the bit from grabbing and screwing into the material.
Use a step bit drilling acrylic, works great.
Besides zero rake drill tip is good on brass. I made a set of drill bits just for brass and acrylic
@@oldscratch3535 drill a few holes in steel does the same thing. but adam was using bits made for acrylic
A weird method that definitely works is to run a regular twist drill in reverse at high speed, and melt your way through. It sounds like a bad idea, but I've done it hundreds of times on plastics and never had a crack. It makes a ugly lump of melted plastic around the hole, but once cool the lump will snap off easily. It means you can just use any drill bit without worrying if it's sharpened correctly, or should I say "dulled correctly"
From 7:06 to 7:25 ... that HUMmmMMmMMmMMMmMM of that motor is music to my ears. Sounds so smooth!!!
Those old motors like that sound incredible!
Its such a joy to be on your need-out jounry with you. You're an inspiration to makers everywhere.
My 14yr old son found an old triumph spitfire. He's going to do work for this old guy to get it so we can restore it together. Im looking forward to it and i couldn't be prouder of him.
Love your chat on car repairs. I can definitely resonate. I started my repair journey on an 86 Honda Civic that my dad had for 15 years when he gave it to me.
20:13 I love this story of repairing your own car, gonna have to replace my compressor in my car, hearing this is lovely inspiration for getting that project done.
Adam, I know you had fun with that acrylic window, but it should be removed, that hole is usually for airflow across the stator windings, to keep the motor cool. If anything it should be a latice casting or a screen. A suggested upgrade, extend the travel beam and put a handle knob on the end. If you look at similar saws from Keller you will find them. It makes it a bit easier to gently lower the blade onto the material, but you are still fighting the inertia of the saw frame, and the thrust of the connecting rod. The max material size is 1/4" shorter than the stroke, you must allow the blade to travel completely through the whole part so the chips can be ejected. If you try to cut material larger than the stoke, then some of the teeth stay packed with chips, and thus the blade cant drop enough to allow for a full cut.
Again, another dive into the constant pursuit of the ultimate one-man operated, general purpose fabrication and repair shop! ... and again, Adam seems to be tempting the law of gravity repeatedly. I must have yelled "look out" to my computer screen 3 times (without a response of course), which has made this one of the more nail-biting episodes I have watched recently. Thanks Adam, for once again making me jealous of your acquiring of yet another tool I could use but didn't even know existed!
This one may take several sittings to get through but i am here for it
It's so true how much of a good feeling it is to fix your own car, I always have and my daughter's always watched me so when it was time to get her car she did her own breaks shocks changed all the light bulbs which aren't that easy in the newer cars, and change the oil all basic stuff you can do it home and she was so proud of herself telling all her friends
As for the Old Solder and new solder. A very broad overview without going into material properties. The lead content and impurities in the solder were not made the same as todays products. With corosion on the wire and solder over the years and different material properties the solder is needing a higher temperature to melt. The easiest solution I have found over the years is to add some fresh Rosin to the old solder & wire. Then put some fresh solder on your iron. With the molten solder on the extra hot iron, apply the tip of the iron to the freshly rosinned old solder. The heat will penitrate and the rosin will help clean the old solder and wire. With the mix of the two solders (old and new), pre tin the new wire then apply to the old wire woth heat. Keep the hot iron on just a bit longer then normal. Dont forget to use heat sinks on the old and new wires to prevent to insulation or other components from getting damaged.
This is very interesting. I have never heard of using a heat sink to prevent the wire casing from melting. Is there a special name for this or do you just clip on some metal?
'Flux' is, I believe, the common term used rather than 'rosin', but regardless.. The first problem with old copper (wire or pipe, eg as in hot water systems) is the oxidisation: clean the exposed surface before applying solder. The second problem is that as copper in these applications go thru frequent temperature changes, they become hardened; tis is slightly less of a problem with pipe (unless you want to bend it), but is quite likely to snap thin wire strands, so if possible with the latter, replace it if at all possible (with the former you could probably anneal it sufficiently, even in place); if replacement isn't possible/practicable, be /extremely/ careful & try to avoid stressing the strands by bending or similar, as they'll still be v brittle
@@henrilebovic5229 its a heat sink its what its called not matter what its made from the idea is it draws the heat.
@@snafu2350 rosin is a type of flux. you have acid or rosin fluxes. in electrical and electronics especially rosin flux is used. metal work uses acid fluxes
@@henrilebovic5229 its basically a clamp made of aluminum. i dont remember where i got mine from but there is a japanese company that makes them. taiyo heat clip.
If I'm not mistaken, that's a variable speed motor. The adjustment lever lets you set the speed to your liking, and probably even lets you run it in reverse.
I was thinking speed control but if it also allows reverse that is pretty cool.
Regarding taking things apart, when I was 12 I took apart my dads old portable typewriter, literally down to the rods and pins stage... I then put it all back together and it worked. Once my dad saw me do that he bought me a big technical Lego kit for Xmas and the rest is history.
This asmr is oddly satisfying. Never imagined that from Mythbusters.
Anyone else have literal dreams while sleeping of coming across super cool old tools like? I swear, almost weekly I dream of finding a huge metal lathe on the side of the road.
I love the subtle "hop" it does on the backswing to clear the teeth and then push them back down on the forward stroke! amazing tech
Adam, having observed you operate this machine during the setting phase, may I suggest moving the start/stop buttons towards the front of the machine for ease of use, and possibly adding a foot operated em stop.
It wasn't clear to me in the vid, but I would vastly prefer any powered machine (esp like this, with a relatively exposed mechanism) to have a big red mushroom 'STOP!!!' button, & a smaller recessed 'start' button..
You are an inspiration, Adam. I love your content. It is always educational, and the world needs more of it.
That saw sound is a soothing background noise :D
So, Adam gets trolls too! At over 6 million subscribers, I think he’s doing fine y’all. He can call himself an engineer and then some because he’s a genius. Mad respect to you Adam!
Thank you for answering the main question I had before clicking. Which was "Why would you have any need for that with all the other tools you have, what function can it serve better" Essentially, it's automation, and I can completely get that being able to set this working while you're 3d printing another part and making something yourself can add something to the workflow.
So glad to see this wonderful little machine have its day in the spotlight. I have one as well and set it up with an auto-shut off. The shut off switch is mounted so the bottom of the cutting arm bumps it on the backstroke after the arm has dropped from the cut. If that makes sense. The on/off is set up on a simple relay circuit.
Oh my dear sweet baby Jesus, what a sight to behold. Adam Savage has outdone himself.
tool marks that tell the story of how something was made are always so interesting to study, great for a challenge coin, perfect for an Adam Savage challenge coin
Loving this long-form content. Watching you work and talk to yourself is so chill when I'm working. Wayching you work on the motor was very cool. Please make more like this.
I still cant believe Adam hasn't blown himself up on video yet, as someone who has shocked their selves more times than i can count Adam and electrical makes me think of myself before becoming a electrician 😂
when he opened the motor i laterally said out loud "damn thats clean!" haha XD thats a marvel
This machine was probably the precursor to the horizontal bandsaw. I love how the old machines were made to last.
This went from simply cleaning up and repairing an old tool to epic mod build real fast!
Adam, the drive wheel is turning in the wrong direction. Hopefully you can just change wiring on the motor. You want the cutting stroke of the connecting arm moving down towards the workpiece. That will add downword pressure on the saw blade and it will cut a lot faster.
I love that Adam has a signature metal stamp.
your theory on the semicircular cut irregularities is neat. My first guess when you pointed it out was stress patterns in the steel structure, but I think yours makes more sense.
You filmed this on my wedding anniversary day. Cheers
Glad im not the only one who talks to himself in the shop.
A craftsman saw from the 50s? I bet it was made in USA! Thanks for all you do!
Nice, Adam does Hand Tool Rescue. Cannot wait.
I had an '89 F250 as my first car and absolutely agree with you that cars are the best way to get that practice in. Thing was an absolute hunk of junk but being able to buy a part and repair something for a couple bucks instead of hundreds at the shop teaches you incredible lifelong lessons and builds that confidence. Also taught me to always do a thorough inspection before buying a car 🤣
15:52 “everything that can go wrong will go wrong” XD
You know what is a great addition to these powered hacksaws? A coolant tub and small feed pump.
Wow, that is a treasure find. Adam Savage, the man, the tools, the legend.
Excellent - my only thing to add is using the wrong oil for the motor. 3 in 1 in the black bottle has detergents which will gum up electric motors. You need 3 in 1 in the blue bottle or Zoom Spout for electric motors.... :) As far as the comments on it spinning in the wrong direction. That probably does not affect much but my guess is someone replaced the motor at some point with one that has the right speed but the wrong rotation is all.
the oil cup part of the vid...just placed me squarely on the humble ride...I have so much to learn
Wonderful it reminded me of the one I have in my shed, so I got it out and cleaned it so I can show it to my grandson I think he will be fascinated by the mechanism just wonderful to watch. I would like to make a point about the mounting of the motor that delightfully fell to the floor, in the UK we mount the motor with a hinge Bolt so that it can tension the belt with the weight of the motor, a great self tensioning method We never stop learning keep up the good work.
Nice machine. My grandfather once made his own power hacksaw back in the 60s/70s by using a horizontally mounted washing machine agitator motor with some car parts as linkages, and various pieces of steel to make the table and mounts. It worked well. My father even used it years later in his mechanics garage. Pity I have not seen any photos of it.
I imagine if it hasn't already been done, there will be a build for an actual vice for this saw. Adam's made vices before, and I think this is absolutely the perfect project for that.
Just love your enthusiasm Adam,as a retired engineer I would have loved to visit you in your shop but I’m in the UK. Love your video’s.👍👍
#mymechanics is my favorite restoration channel, with #TySyTube and #HandtoolRescue tied for a close second. I once repaired a harmonic balancer that had wandered off it's bushing by pressing it back into place with my neighbors 16-ton pipe-bending press. It shouldn't have worked, but, miraculously, it DID! It was an endorphin-releasing experience for me. I won't recount the experience of replacing the thermostat (and, ultimately, thermostat housing) on the same car (a '99 Chevy Malibu 6-cylinder), but I will say it was the exact OPPOSITE experience. Also replaced the engine mounts, which WAS fun! All this to say, I relate and agree.
My elementary school workshop had something like that, only about twice as big and with a hydraulic feed system and a coolant pump. Those were common back in the day but they have been replaced by horizontal bandsaws because they are much faster and everyone is in a hurry nowadays. Those old electric motors (like most old machines) are fascinating, on the outside they look like black, rough, crude lumps of cast iron but the insides are very well designed and accurately manufactured. Their primitive exterior hides their inner sophistication.
I had no idea automatic hacksaws were a thing! Awesome!
I have a habit of taking tools apart that I get no matter their age. My grandfather taught me to always take things apart to learn how they work. Every time we buy a new car (new to us) I lift the hood and look under it. If I have no clue what I’m looking at we move on to the next vehicle. If I can’t do the basic check oil check battery check radiator fluid then I’m not going to buy it. 58:04 “help me. Help me”. The piece of stock is crying for help. It’s being slowly tortured with a blade slowly moving back and forth over it. 😅
I agree my bandsaw is obsolete but i dismantled it and a few minutes with a venire caliper and i had all the bearing sizes a quick google search and i had new bearing ordered, keep up the excellent work Adam love your channel.
Not just fuel or fire, an important third leg in the equation is air. Keep up the videos Adam, it’s always a pleasure to see what your diving into next!
37:49 that's 12L14, a leaded free-machining steel, super easy to cut, definitely not stainless. Can't weld it, but it's great for machining.
I just watched over an hour on a mechanical hacksaw. Incredible.
I wish and hope to one day have that confidence of taking something like that apart and being able to put it together again...I am getting there..and it is because of Tested...it is definitely a journey
Not sure if it has it, but you could add an auto off switch; a mains microswitch with a leaf set just at the point the saw finishes going through the material, you could even make it ring a little bell... Set it up on the right hand side.. if you are worried about it sticking, I think you can get over current cut outs, so the safety switch will trigger before things get toasty.
Y'know I could watch Adam take stuff apart and grease things all day long ... It's like therapy :)
Not sure if laughter or tears are appropriate for this level of incompetence.
Love watching you take things apart to set them right again! Watching you trying to cut that round stock around an hour in reminded me of something. They do make C-clamps with notches cut into the.. feet? of the clamp for gripping pipes and whatnot.