Saw blade manufacturers won't want you to see this tool
Chicago Electric Power Tools Professional Series- Item#96687
Buy Here amzn.to/2EcBZRe
This portable circular saw blade sharpener makes it possible to sharpen several blades at a time. Constructed with a die cast aluminum base and indexing arm, this saw blade sharpener is durable but lightweight. Features include a motor block that tilts 25 degrees left and right to adjust for different blade tooth configurations.
Specialized blade receiver accepts blades with arbors up to 1 in.
Motor block tilts 25° left and right to handle different blade tooth configurations
Blade indexing arm for fast and easy performance
Sturdy die cast aluminum base and indexing arm
Portable compact design
Specifications
Name120 Volt Circular Saw Blade SharpenerSKU96687BrandChicago ElectricAmperage (amps)9CertificationUL listedDiameter3-1/2 in. - 15-3/4 in.Speed (max)3800Wattage (watts)140Product Height11Product Length9-1/2Product Width13-3/4Shipping Weight12.45 lbs.Accessories Included4 in. diamond wheel for carbide tips, 4 in. emery wheel for steel tips, harbor freight Chicago electric tools
Tool can also be purchased on Amazon here amzn.to/2EcBZRe
@@iainohalloran42 And you probably have a lot more common sense and a better sharpener not made in a country killing us all with their filth. If anyone ever brings ANYTHING made in China to my house out is coming the 12 gauge ahead of the 22's my children will have fun finishing up with. Yupp. 🇺🇸 🗽 Now quick, some bleeding heart troller go report me.
Looks like another Harbor Freight nightmare to me!
Blade didn’t need sharpening bud. You should do a video on cleaning your blades. You can do that a couple times before you need to sharpen it. Go to an auto parts shop and pick up a gallon of Super Clean. Set your blades in it for maybe 5 minutes and you will be amazed. It will strip off all the labeling but who cares. Suggest a good wash off afterwards and then protect them from moisture with whatever you like to use on blades that get wet. Wax, dry silicone, or just the water displacement 40 we all have a can of. Also. Your blades would have cut faster and stayed sharp longer with a slight angle to the sharpening. Check out a new blade the next time you buy one. If you get real bored during quarantine see what some 1,000-3000 grit paper does to improve them by polishing the sides as well. Packs are about $5.00 from Lowe’s/Home Depot and last a while.
@@stlalways6715 💘 It. Another Real Fucking American 🇺🇸 🗽 Who actually knows how to work and make shit last, after buying the right shit the first time. There's Indeed a future for Us 🇺🇸 yet. And I ain't sellin ya hopeless faith. Just git a Real J-O-B. 🍺👍😎
I think you should have done every other because they are sharpened on an left and right angle.
Retired journeyman carpenter here. Years ago, on a job site, the sharpening service was unable to come due to truck problems. We had a tech who decided to sharpen the blade himself, sharpening each tooth carefully. The blade didn't cut afterwards. So one of the carpenter's tried it, same result. I asked them to give me 15 minutes with the blade. It cut perfectly when I was done. The focus is NOT on each tooth, it is on the PERFECT centricity of the blade. Your individual teeth can be as sharp as can be, but if your blade is not circular, you'll be cutting with only one tooth; the highest one.
Yea I was wondering why there was a circle blade jointer in my Uncles stuff.
That makes a lot of sense.
This was mentioned yesterday. "The lock dog should be adjusted to enter the tooth root at more of an angle...not straight in. Move the post away from the sharpener", and at a tight angle to the blade tooth. When it clicks in the blade, it should not be able to move back wards at all. Used this clicker as a jam tool to aim, and lock your blade for every tooth. Yes, it was also too close to the sharpener and that was moving it over every time you moved the sharpener forward. I also agree every other cutting tooth should be at a opposite angle, to remove your cut out of the way.
Use a Red Felt Tip marker to mark your first tooth...it helps you to know where you started and how m any more teeth you need to sharpen..
That goes without saying. Or every other on for the blades with alternating teeth
errr... you really should be able to tell by looking at the tooth if it's sharpened or not.
Please stop giving him new ideas
👏🙂
Can I use a black marker?
Working in a professional cabinet shop, I was tasked with getting our blades sharpened on a regular basis. We had a man that was a professional blade sharpener/repairer. He not only did our saw blades, but he also did our drill bits and router bits, and any other cutting tool we had. This saved the company tens of thousands of dollars a year. As new blades and bits were quite expensive, having our old ones sharpened was the smart thing to do. As I had a home shop also, our company allowed me to include my own blades with theirs to be sharpened. This is because I provided a service to my bosses and the CEO with my own skills building things they needed. There was a mutual respect between us that you rarely see in business.
It is almost impossible to find any tool sharpening service here in Southern NJ. I was looking for a local service yo sharpen my end mill that I use in mu milling machine and there's nothing anywhere around. Same with saw sharpening. Nobody has carried on these businesses and they're long gone.
@@hootinouts send them to me. I'm a professional sharpener. I'm in California.
Take note boys, service is a codeword for blowjob.
@@hootinouts my friend there are plenty of mail in sharpening services. just google them. you might need to send 3 or 4 blades to make it worth the shipping however.
I own a professional sharpening center and witnessed many accidents when people run dull blades. If your location doesn't offer a sharpening service this machine will help . Thanks for sharing 👍
Worked at a large slaughterhouse back in the 1970's. They had a sharpener for some of the long straight blades. All round blades were sent out every week. Think be cause we sent out over 150 blades a month only charged around $5" a blade to resharpen. Nice vid. I'm a retired sparky and only use my circular saw a few times a year but always purchase car nice tipped circular saw blades. Saw sharpener company told me that the extra cheap blades that come with a new circular saw are throw away and should not be reshatoened.
Just noticed the blade shroud catching on ratchet post when you bring blade forward to trim, move ratchet post away, should sort out alignment.
I have one. Took the cover off and use it as a mini bench grinder for small shit like chisels etc. I use it at least every other day for one thing or another thats other than its intended use. I'm surprised it's become so handy.
Lol, my Dad used to make "let" me sharpen his saw blades with a file... took forever but I learned a valuable skill!
Just by cleaning the gunk off the blade improves the cut a LOT, I was actually amazed how much improves, I do it just with a simple file, not sure if you can recover a blade but you definitely improve the cut by doing some maintenance to it.
Easy off oven cleaner will clean the gunk, no file required.
I sharpen professionally and find simple green the go to cleaner, a pair of cut resistant gloves and a magnet to handle the blade if needed. If the blades are scrubbed they need some type of rust proofing and use dry spray lubricant after.
@@markthompson1330 that's a good topic: what do you recommend for 'rustproofing'? I've heard wax, but it doesn't last or even do it well enough; oils of vaious kinds, but not generally suitable for this application; paint isn't right for a sawblade; always looking out for a better idea.
@@atlantajunglepythons1744 I only use DuPont Non-Stick Dry-Film Lubricant, any wax will burn when using the blade and make a mess to clean off, so far the dry film lube from DuPont works. I use it on many types of blades I sharpen since it stops rust and provides protection if the tool or blade is stored or shipped.
@@markthompson1330 I just boughtba can of that, thks for the info. Looks similar to one I used to use, 'Dri-Coat'. Spray, dry, wipe in the excess.
Yes definite learning curve. I've had the same one for 3 or 4 years. All the adjusters on this unit are really too imprecise. Here's the trick. Set the bade with the black handle pulled all the way in towards you -- don't touch it again. Wear leather gloves! Now what you do is free hand all the carbide sharpening. I set the blade around 10 degrees bevel and sharpen every other tooth, once complete I reset the bevel for the blade around 10 degrees opposite pitch. I practiced on a few and within an hour I was whizzing through em. Has saved me probably a $1000 or more in new purchases and sending them out for re-sharpening.
I did same thing 10 years ago, had an odd 9" miter saw I couldn't find blades for. Only problem was I only had one blade, you can only sharpen it so many times. Lol
Thanks for addressing that. That's doing it right.
I just got this and not used it yet, I do think that could be better to free hand the blade onto the cutting wheel rather than use the blade tooth lock
Yeah this is what I ended up doing with it, the whole thing is just too flimsy otherwise.
It cost $35 at my Harbor Freight. I'll get it just to see what it can do.
Thanks to this video I just find out that I can use a grinder to do that. Taking my time one by one. Thanks for your time and effort in this video.
Any sort of instructional video on doing so?
Yes, me too got the idea of using a regular grinder and doing it by hand, of course the accuracy of that sharpening machine it's going to be a lot better but hey for doing your own projects I think it will work, greetings my friend ! 😊
Good luck sharpening carbide blades with a regular grinder; there is a reason that carbide grinding has to be done with a diamond coated wheel.
Interesting, I would have never thought to sharpen circular saw blades. Cool stuff Clint!
Dont bother.
I have one of those and it works awesome. I also modified it to sharpen 15" planer blades with a vernier adjustment. Some day I may make a video and add it to my channel. Also you have to set the angle for every other tooth and then reset the angle for the ones you skipped.
I like mine . Works real good. Take your time , figure it out , sharpens blades very well. I've even bought blades at junk stores garage sales and such. And brought them back to life.
I've had one of those for 4 years evidently your blades are square cut ,the ones I have because of the curf I have to set the motor and 10 degree angle both directions for opposing teeth
I admire your enthusiasm and perseverance and you handle frustration very calmly. It clearly doesn't work the way it should, just like the Chain Saw Sharpener that now sits idle in my shed. The difference between handyman and commercial is 10 times the price. The concept is good but the execution falls well short. Like other cheap stuff though, (eg; the Harbor Freight Sand Blast Cabinet) there is some good info out there on how to modify this unit to make it work. Out of box is always a gamble but it is a cheap way to buy the things needed to make something half decent if you are inclined and have the ability. I think I'll put the US $59 towards a new blade. Thanks for sharing. Edit: After just watching a few other videos of this product it is clear you weren't using it correctly. You don't put the stop pawl in the gully behind each tooth but into the actual tooth gully
I might be able to do that with a die grinder, w/ a steady hand - very steady... I never throw them away, they just pile up so I have nothing to lose.
put your hand grinder in a vice, save $50, this tool made me just as nervous looked like it could take off a whole cutting edge with one mistake.
I mean, you COULD, but I'd look up if there is a little mount you could make to hold it.
@richard mccann DIAMOND SAW BLADES don't cut wood.
What a piece of junk
Kinda what I was thinking... I’ve got some half dead cut off wheels that are too slow for cutting pipe anymore but I reckon they could take slivers off of old saw blades.
move your stop so it points straight into the tooth without flexing
Excellent! We go through a lot of blades in our Fabrication shop. I will present this to the owner. Awesome tutorial
Any updates? Curious about what he said.
I was a machinist with TRW Wendt-Sonis 16 years. When starting a sharpening set up, one would use a black marker to color area to be ground. Coming in slowly to the darkened area with the grinding wheel, you could tell when the ground area was at "clean up", as the color was erased and the carbide was shined, ready to be ground to tolerance
This procedure at set up allows minimal carbide to be removed in the sharpening process
Hey , I am a retired Woodworker with over 25 years professional years behind me and over35 years of Woodworking as a hobby it sounds like you are grinding way more than you need to on Carbide tipped saw blades I like the machine set up you are using but maybe your wheel is too coarse or the blade needs to be readjusted usually I just basically dress the cutting face up as compared to grinding a brand new surface I actually have some Blades that are as old as the 1950s and were my Fathers those are just HSS not the preferred Carbide tipped I’ve even used 800grit wet/dry sandpaper glued to a flat surface to make just a few passes onthe Carbide and that will give me many more good cuts on the blade
Yep I agree. With 46 years of woodworking experience I have learned a lot about tooling. With carbide teeth you want to use the finest grit possible.....assuming that the carbide isn't chipped badly. And set grinder to only "kiss" the face surface of the tooth. Also the indexer should be adjusted to go into the gullet at the base of the tooth in lieu of the place it was catching. You can't possibly secure the blade to repeat repositioning precisely enough without a lot of slop.
I have this sharpener. The stop arm is inconsistent so I just set the blade in place and rotated the tooth by hand against the sharpening blade. It's quicker and I just hold each one for a few seconds. Does just fine without the frustration.
Have it..love it..paid for itself several times over...once you get it set up properly, works great..
i love how EVERY video off this machine is done with the cheap blades. makes me want to buy 10 of them.
That would be because most people buying this are tight azzes like me.
I think the spring action on the ratchet catch is so once the blade is in position you actually spin the blade into the stone instead of the stone into the blade.
This is the secret! This is what all of the videos get wrong! You don't bring the stone into the blade, you bring the blade into the stone.
It's a great concept. I've designed and built my own sharpening tools for my shop, and am constantly asked to build more for friends, relatives, and coworkers. I've designed and built more tooling, workholding, locating, locking, fixturing, stuff that needs to be precise, accurate, repeatable - and due to 20% of my crew everywhere I've worked - and idiot resistant (because just as there is nothing completely bullet "proof" there is nothing completely idiot "proof" ... some idiots are just amazing). Blade sharpening, on blades meant to be resharpened, is so helpful, saves money, reduces scrap, and improves safety of blades in use. There are definitely improvements to be made to that thing. I would want to improve its rigidity, its locating and positive stop functions, and replace that crappy wheel. I would use a different abrasive, likely a superabrasive, but not diamond. Diamond structurally is a crystalline lattice of carbon, carbide structurally is a crystalline lattice composed of significant percentages of carbon. Consider the phrase, "like dissolves like," and you'll see why. Diamond abrasives service life is significantly reduced by using it on carbide. I know I'll get responses of, " I use my diamond on my blah blah blah blah." Don't bother. I didn't post this as a conversation. It's a comment. Agree or disagree, I don't care, that's your choice. I helped design tooling, based on physics, chemistry, thermodynamics determined by actually DOING things again and again and again and measuring the outcome, then DOING things and again measuring the results. So this isn't guesswork or opinion I base my COMMENT on. If you want to use this and see how things work for you, great. If you want to argue because you use this in your shop and ... Great. Happy for you. Have a wonderful life. Time for me to go, I've got a 106" resaw blade that needs resharpening and fifteen minutes before bedtime, and I still need to shower. Take care, build something useful, and stay safe!
Thanks for the info! Since you wouldn't use diamond, what would you use, and is it readily available in the retail market?
No body cares about how "busy" you are. Everyone hates ramblers. Just as you said its a comment. You should have left your opinion as a comment and not a ramble of random crap and what you "have to do before bed" like your life is so much more important than the rest of us or we should feel pity. Although its funny to know you have a "bed time" like a child. In the country we don't have a "bed time" until the job is finished.
While growing up a common phrase we used (3rd grade - 1963!) was 'Don't make anything idiot proof. Someone will just build a better idiot.'
Great feedback 👍
I use to work in a place going this with old blade. Our blade where however 2" round. I would spend a day in the tool shop just sharping blades about twice a month.
My father has an old Fey Belsaw blade sharpener. He used to sharpen blades back in the 1980s for people. This was when many people still used the blades without the carbides, so he would sharpen and reset the teeth on those blades. One of the local blueberry farms would drop off their brush cutting blades.
I take my blades and hand saws too my local lumber store. they send them out, get sharpened, pinned balanced and teeth off set again.
What do they typically charge, if you don't mind my asking? Is it based on the number of teeth?
My local blade sharpener gave me the price for my blades and they literally came out like 2-3 dollars cheaper than buying a new blade. so I said screw it and got one of these it's finicky and does a lil better with a finer blade but there's some videos etc on mods and getting it set up right. once you tinker with it a bit and get it set up right it does great. the biggest problem is getting the angles set if you have teeth that aren't set 90 degrees. it takes a lil patience but it's also 59 bucks instead of the 4-500 for a lil bit better unit or thousands for a commercial unit as for blade resharpening at least where I'm at it's not worth the cost unless you have blades that cost 2-300 dollars or more
@@umahunter How about the carbide teeth caps? They fall off of some teeth and the rest remain. What do you do then?
About as precise as sewing an ant's ass shut with boxing gloves on
Beautiful, you should be writing daily captions for a calendar company or maybe Hallmark cards, I'd buy one, seriously, but then again I'm over 50 and not "correct" in any form.
😂
Never heard that one, gonna have to share it with my son who's 31 & always cracking me up.
kicknsystm are you sure he’s 31?
@@hauntedhose He'd better be or I'm going senile.
I didn’t know any better. Bought the same red blade, put in on my Harbor Freight chop saw, and still cutting great. I do stand aside, but so far, so good.
Looks like a good start for a little bit of re-engineering. I would make a better stop to locate the teeth. That one looked a bit wobbly.
It would probably help if you at least clamp the thing to the table. Also you might get better with the setup after using it a few times.
You have to adjust the part to catch the next blade section. It was way to close to the sharpening wheel it was getting moved which was causing it to move
yes it needs moved to the outer slot on the base
Thanks Clint, I appreciate your time and effort in helping us all. Stay safe my Friend 😊😁 Rodney
your post with the spring loaded flipper stop nees moved to the outer slot on the base so themotor doesnt hit the post when moving it forwards. that is what is changing the location of the cut
Also there should have been a bushing to hold blade centered. That was the rest of the problem
I would have thought the blade needed to be reversed so that the stop device would rest on the cutting tip of the saw blade and then the post would not catch the motor, if that makes sense.
@@stevieravon havent used mine for a while but i believe th blade locates on a cone to center it
@@stevieravon - watch the video, idiot. There is a centre bush in the blade, dumbass.
I use my " cut-off wheel " and sharpen them by hand but I must admit having everything stable would be cleaner. Maybe remake some of the machines cheaper parts .
Please get them sharpened at a actual company and not just reface them, my company does the od along with facing and you get about 10 more sharpening with them, but if insist on doing it yourself do it with a diamond grinding wheel and some type of lubricant even if it’s pouring water on it you’ll get a much cleaner grind than a cut off wheel
There's a landfill in the back of my shed dedicated to thousands of those awesome blades that slowly become good for only a sharpening future that never came.
You can make nice knife blades from them btw
@@krustysurfer I procrastinate sharpening these blades and you want me to stoke up the furnace? Yeah!
@@Eugwel yep! Make some nice knifes
My favorite intro. Like ever! 🤘🏼
2:25 “I am not trying say i am cheap but I am cheap” 👈🤣😂😅
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Wow. 10x funnier after reading your post. Bless mon!
As he dips the most expensive snuff!
Thanks for the review. I might get one of these. My hesitation is not about the cost, its about having another tool taking up space when I could MAYBE use my cut off tool and make a jig to hold the blade... maybe. Just FYI, I think you were cutting too much tooth material because the lock dog wasn't set up right... or if you prefer... I could keep my unasked for opinions to myself! Thanks again,
I usually run blades till the tips fall off or burn off. My chopsaw would love for me to purchase one of these 😝
Bet those burn marks on the wood look cool af
cool tool good for recycling and cost effective for DIY users who leave tools unused for long periods
A buddy of mine has this tool, and we've sharpened a couple of my blades. They worked fine for my needs. I guess if you're a woodworker into fine, precision work this sharpener won't do it for you, but for my work they did great.
A real fine wood worker wonn't touch power tools...
@@slchang01 Doesn't mean the "real fine woodworker" is doing work of any more quality than I do, just because they refuse to use power tools.
I leave this under every video I watched, it helps the algorithm
the part that is spring loaded is hitting the grider cover. I dont think its suppose to do that thats why there is inconsistincy in the sharpening. some how you should be able to adjust the spring post over some so it wont hit into the grinding wheel guard
I don't know about tool, but the chuckle ya gave me about ,,,how many times can you mow your grass in one day....well worth hitting the subscribe button
Hahaha, thanks bro and welcome to the channel 👊👊👊
Another problem with a dull saw blade is the sticky resin that winds up splintering the edge of the wood being cut. Either heat it up in the sun or some other mild heat source and spray oven spray meant for warm ovens (not hot) let sit and clean off. Or you can use some acetone with a rag to clean the sides of the carbide tip and the side of the blade itself. I have found that this works but usually wont last as long a a brand new blade. Another thing is that if you havent hit metal or stones with the blade often the acetone is enough to get you through the job.
I have this unit. I took the cover off the wheel and adjust the blade so it is right. Ignore the clicker arm I then bring the wheel to the blade and move the blade into the wheel. It’s quicker and easier
and probably takes a consistent amount of material off of each tooth.
I do the same thing with mine. Works great.
Yes rely on the eyes better~!
faultroy I haven’t had to deal with alternate angles, but of the blades I have sharpened it works real well. Cheaper then sending them out
My thought exactly. Throw away that spring loaded arm. It's worthless.
LOL.."It's too noisy out here" says the guy running loud power tools... Good Video, thanks
Haha
Don't matter where you live==People are People which means they are the Worst~!!
he is trying to make a video out there. have some understanding.
@@jimmyschmidt14 the neighborhood doesn't shut down because someone wants to make a video.
I mowed my lawn three times last week, and I'll mow it three times this week. Lol
This is a great tool for the shop. Since I bought one 4 years ago, I have not bought another blade. I sharpen 8", 10" and 12" blades with it. Working on a jig which will sharpen bandsaw blades.
I see some saying this machine is total crap. You say its good. Guess its some dont really know how to use it because if it was really that bad then it would be bad for everyone
Looks like a good idea but needs to be clamped down to the table first and then adjust the stop to go in the cutting tooth. I think like some others you need to grind every other tooth to keep the angle correct. Will check these out to see if they can be used correctly. I have a blade collection that need this.
Your Ratchet Post is too close the Cutting Head. The Shroud keeps Hitting it and pushing it out of alignment.
Yup and he can adjust it to line up on the other tooth that has been sharpened.
I don't even bother with the ratchet post... just turn it by hand as well as move in & out.
It's should be every other tooth. Then, I'm guessing he needs to flip the blade over and probably needs more angle. Guess it didn't come with instructions but then again, who reads them anyways.
Typical china crap work on it constantly for it to work right
Yes is that notch tower able to be adjusted away from that cover that moves it?
Actually would think the clicker stop should be stopping against the next TOOTH instead of the rounded spacer gap. Would give a more positive stopping point. That would also move the stop support out away from the blade guard so it wouldn't bump when the blade comes in. Actually this is a good video, which along with the various comments would allow one to get it set up and used correctly. I'm betting it's not a bad piece of equipment once set up and I didn't even know they had this. So thanks. Floor laminate is a killer on saw blades.
i bought one about a year ago. i know it's Harbor Freight but it has sharpened my blades very sharp. It does a great job.
Dear friend, watching your video reveals that the index mechanism on the right side of the device is coming into contact with the cover of the grinding disc cover! It flexes to the right every time you move the grinding wheel forward and thus causing the problem of it not properly indexing and aligning ;-)
The lock dog should be adjusted to enter the tooth root at more of an angle...not straight in. Move the post away from the sharpener
He needed to just turn the blade over then it would click into the appropriate notch the right way.
@@chasechaffins4256 thats what I was thinking. Could save a man some money.. if you do alot of cutting everyday. For the average homeowner meh. Id use a grinder for a quick touch up.
Yep - he has the blade upside down. Supposed to be a "reviewer" yet is totally clueless and doesn't even read the fucking INSTRUCTIONS.
@@milehigh3054 On carbine tip, a grinder will do nothing. I tried to sharpen a carbide earth auger tooth one time, and all it did to the tooth was polish it. It made a grove the grinder wheel.
Tooth "gullet".
I have one of these HF sharpeners, and ran into the same problem with the spring dog, and tooth misalignment. I ended up taking the dog off, and rotating the blade in the opposite direction, and manually aligning the saw tooth. I also tightened up the spring load clamp holding the blade down until I could barely turn it. You need to check a blade closely and see if the face angle is the same for adjacent teeth. Knowing the tooth geometry before you start grinding on a blade is very important. The other thing is, bolt/clamp down the thing. It will work much, much better. It CAN save you some money, but what you save in price, you have to invest in making improvements to the thing.
Your comment was well written and articulate. Good English grammar skills.
@@meangreen7389 Thanks... I had an 8th grade English teacher who was hell on wheels. Other than loudly making sure we knew she was from St Louie, & NOT St Louis, she repeatedly shouted at us 'The primary purpose of the written word is communication. If you cannot write well, you cannot communicate.' I guess it stuck...
@@georgedennison3338 It shows. 👍
Thanks for the video. I had the same problem getting that spring arm to work. I ended up not using it all at.
I was just looking at one of these in the store today! The only blade sharpener in my area (that I know of) is retiring, plus he charged almost as much as the machine costs. So this sharpener is definitely on my list. The first blade you demonstrated looked like a skip-tooth design - maybe that requres a different technique?
So go buy his sharpener if he's retiring. Quick, before somebody else will get it.
The indexing pin needs to be set up so that it indexes directly on the teeth.
Agreed, the indexing pawl is not set up right. It might never be precise enough to use without adjusting each cut by hand. But what can we expect at that price. It probably would revitalize a lot of blades satisfactorily.
After using that tool, I have a new nickname, "3 Finger Jack". :-)
I did notice that you were rotating the blade to adjust the contact point a lot. Question: Does the grinder create a burr on the side of each tooth that should be filed off?
Not wanting to sound critical ...but I notice as in your first blade dressing example that the vertical index stop is pushing against the grinding wheel cover, while the blade is being introduced into the dressing wheel... setup is 80%. Old Tech Instructor .
I grind my old blades into throwing ninja stars for the kids to play with.
Sounds smart!
I just give my kids a box of matches on a week🔥
Am I the only one who had fun toys when I was a kid? 😳 Nowadays everything is considered so dangerous that adults and children alike aren't allowed anything, at least not without a hazmat suit, a helmet, safety boots and a written work order with complementary risk analysis...
@@calvin4875 sounds more like child abuse. I hope he has a good medical plan.
Do you make lawn darts out of your old screwdrivers too??
Your pawl to index with needs to index on the actual tooth of the blade, your indexing in a radius relief and sliding around. As a machinist who has sharpened many types of cutters on professional factory type equipment you always located from the cutting edge of an existing tooth for accuracy.
WHAT!
That saw is a beast......
It appears you do not have the locater assembly set right . Every time you engage the sharpening disc the guard is pushing the locater post to the right. Not sure if you noticed this, you need to make an adjustment to get better results.
Great video. After you sharpen a blade,a quick coat of automotive paste wax will keep sap from making the blade grab, which is what burns
Spray with Oven cleaner. Blades get gunked with pitch. Spray and let sit for a few minutes,wipe off. Good as new.
78kawasaki650 aha, oven cleaner... nice, thanks!
Growing up back in the 60s & 70s we had a neighbour who mad a good living with a saw sharpening business in his garage. Hand and circular a chain saws. But by the 90s the disposable society put him out of business. Shoe repair use to be a good trade too.
Ahhhh I thought it was gunna be some new kick ass tool. It's a nice tool just heard of it alreadyz. Nice vid would have blown my mind a few years ago
I have used this sharpener for several years. I adjust the grinder to match the original angle of the tooth then sharpen every other one then readjust for the other teeth. I do not use the dog. Instead I rotated the blade so I can move the grinder into the gullet and then rotate the blade and touch the carbide against the diamond wheel. This way you can get the teeth sharp without removing excess carbide. I use carbide blades on a brush cutter to cut cedar trees in my pasture and the blade hits the dirt a lot. This sharpener has helped me get more use out of each blade.
I've never sharpened circular saw blades, but with this said I've sharpened professionally for years. Suggestion: find the right angle of every other blade tip and sharpen on slightly different angles for each other tip (as the blades come from the factory). This will increase the overall sharpness of the finished product. A little bit like sharpening chain saw blades. Great video I learned what really needed. Thanks.
Rat tail files!!
Plus the tool does nothing to adjust set. And that's a really big factor when it comes to kerf. When blades get hot and spin the set is straightened up and kerf is reduced, which allows for pinch. Maybe the carbide blades don't have as much set, because the teeth are a bit larger than the blade. All I know is my dad used to sharpen our steel blades and though they do cut better, they still pinch and burn.
@@peterford9369 Yes, on these blades the carbide tooth is wide enough to make clearance for the blade.
@@DrHarryT I do know carbide blades can be sharpened. Have used carbides for years. Found out most of the time carbide blades get unusable, is because a tooth is chipped badly or knocked off totally. But in 40 plus years of carpenter ing, I've always bought new. I thought about investing in a sharpening machine, but I always remember my dad, sitting for 20 minutes, sharpening steel blades and they work for about 10 cuts and still pinch and burn. Then I learned about set. And yes, pro sharpeners will set,set. I never had any sharpened. Thanks for the update.
Harbor Freight is constantly finding ways to get me into their store lol.
Wish they would send out the coupons again, ain’t scared of no flu.
The rod on which the trap catch was fixed, was 'bending' (or moving in the base) when the grinding wheel was cutting the teeth. That might be part of the reason for all the adjustment problems? Interesting video, thanks.
Bought one from Harbor Freight about a year ago. Had a dozen or so blades of various sizes that was actually going to paint or stencil different pictures on for shop and yard art work or whatever. Then I seen this tool being demonstrated on You Tube. Thought damn for 60 bucks can't go wrong. What do I have to lose. Had some blades I spent 50, 60 bucks. For the money I made a good choice. The tool is sort of a pain in the butt to adjust and be able to tighten so it won't work loose. Once I figured the logistics on how to operate sharpened about a dozen blades in an hour or so. Just as sharp now as when new.
My local guy charges 25 cents/tooth. Its worth it for my finish blades, especially when it comes to preserving the bevel.
To be honest I think blade manufacturers would like this. The tool seems inconsistent in its cutting
It's all in the set up.
@@darkiee69 you can polish a turd, but it's still a turd.
@@BlcokedAccount HAAAAAAA!
Right ! If you are home owner you'll just buy new ones because you won't be going through them like a carpenter, If you'er a contractor, then you add them on the price of job. No time to be sharpening.
What did you expect, it came from Harbor Freight. Don’t they sell tools by the pound?
Interesting, thanks for sharing.
Good for the back of my machete, it has a saw tooth limb/tree branch cutter on it. Then just finish it off with a file and a medium grit and then a smooth "grit". Type. Nice. I'm getting one of these for sure.
Hate to be a stick in the mud here but I would recommend using a good quality respirator when sharpening carbide blades. Breathing carbide dust is extremely hazardous to your lungs. We had a guy at work whose only job was to sharpen all kinds of tools and blades. After years of doing so, he was no longer allowed to sharpen carbide toothed saw blades, bits or machinery knives because of the hazard. That probably wouldn't stop me from doing it at home with a respirator, though. It's a free country, for now, at least. Do what you think is right in this case, but be mindful of anyone who may enter your workspace and be exposed and keep making stuff!
I agree. If you are going to show how a machine works you really should adhere to all of the safety steps. In addition to a respirator, safety glasses should be worn most definitely when grinding any kind of metal.
Gil I commend you for pointing out the danger of grinding carbide. So many KZhead videos do a real disservice to the novice who has no clue. That is how we all start out. Some learn the hard way. Ironic, I will never forget a fellow who sold sheets of asbestos boards. He would also cut them for you. No mask. Wonder how that worked out.
@@crossgrainwoodproductsltd9230 Or use the tool how you see fit and expect people to use common sense when they are using them. I bet yall are the people telling everyone they better wear masks or die from covid.
@@merckling56 Yall??? whatever that means, is not a word in the dictionary- I don't have to tell anyone to wear a mask. Everyone I know and see in public is wearing a mask, because it is COMMON SENCE
@@crossgrainwoodproductsltd9230 Here is our first tiggered snowflake, y'all is in the Merriam Webster dictionary, it is a contraction of you-all which is used in addressing two or more people. Common sense driving at night with your headlights on, common sense isn't conforming to what the government tells you to do when Covid deaths/cases are being highly inflated for political and monetary gains especially when the CDC just came out saying that 6% of reported "Covid deaths" were actually do to Covid and not just a contributing factor. Maybe you should just stick to whittling wood, hopefully you are better at that tan life facts.
Oooooo WAH AH AH AHHH best intro song I’ve heard on a KZhead video
Down with the sickness!
I hadn't even heard it yet, but somehow "Oooooo WAH AH AH AHHH" sounds exactly how it looks. I knew exactly what you were talking about. Lol
Try flipping over the ratchet pawl so that it catches the next tooth instead of the groove between the teeth.
Nice video, thanks for posting
So having been trained in saw sharpening, you likely need to do every other tooth paying attention to the actual angle and then switch the angle to sharpen the opposite angle teeth!
Exactly...
He needs to sharpen every other tooth, flip and repeat. They are set on angles to provide kerf.
I can't speak to that Ridgid blade, but the tooth faces on all my 10" and 12" DeWalt blades are set at 90° ... not angled. The teeth on my DeWalt dado stack are also set at 90°. Since the faces are perpendicular to the blade, they can all be sharpened in one set-up. The width of the carbide tips determines kerf width.
@@kennnva551 Must be why when my blade got junk on it, plastic, sap, whatever. I just put a sharp chisel on side of blade and hit the trigger and clean it off. Cuts good again.
The kerf width is set by the width of the cutters on carbide blades. What the opposing angles do is keep the cut from "drifting" sideways and making a curved or crooked cut. That way, each pass of a left cutter is compensated for by the immediate following of a right cutter.
I was just coming down here to the comments to help him. I can see that others have done the same… but I want to add to it, and hopefully it will help clarify things for those who are newer to the industry, or just newer to this specific style of blade, sharpening machine. You have to adjust this machine so that the stopper flips flat against the next carbide tooth! This type of sawblade has half of the carbide teeth that “normal” 40-60 tooth plywood blades would have so that it hits the gullet, where other blades would have another carbide tooth for the a ATDPAD to stop against. Also, you need to tighten the ATDPAD so that it doesn’t flex at all! It’s called a “Adjacent Tooth Dependent Precise Advancing Detent” for good reason. 😉👍🏼
That was awesome, it needs more alignment to get best.
After sharpening blades for a living for 40 years I can assure you that this machine needs lots of work to make it usable
I've never sharpened anything but pencils and i see that myself... ;)
The reviewer is not USING it correctly. He has the blade on upside down, and it using the indexing thingie wrongly.
I can see a design flaw. The spring loaded positioning arm is too close to the blade guard so gets pushed to the side when you pull the handle forward.
Yeah I was struggling a bit with that as well Rambling Man
looked adjustable
When sharpening the DeWalt blade, it want the knob that needed to be tightened, it was the bolt holding that post to the base
This was very interesting to see. The machine has some me quirks but should work well with some attention and care. Thank you for sharing this.
You need a mic, on your person, when recording. Because, half the time you were speaking, you were further away from the mic, and your voice faded. =/
Junk junk junk
You should look more closely at a "new/good" blade every other tooth is cutting the same side, tapering down and away from the highest point, alternating like a chainsaw chain. Good blades are easy to keep sharp. Buy blades with more teeth. Each tooth takes less material and therefore less wear, also try letting your saw get up to full speed before yanking it through the board. Let it chew it's way through the board, slowly, this will prevent too big of a bite with each cut of the tooth. Thereby reducing heat buildup. Simple good shop maintenance and good sharp tools will go a long way to making your projects faster and less stressful.
Taff Daddy there are many different types of grinds for blades not all are ATB. More teeth also doesn’t mean a blade is going to last longer. Using the proper rip or crosscut blade is going to help longevity more than anything
I've seen these saw blade sharpeners in different names, but they all seem like the exact same design and setup. I wonder why they had everything sitting on stilts instead of making it flat with solid platforms to hold the blade solid and still give a great results. I realize the motor has to have room to clear the casing and blade, but lowering everything as low as possible offers a more solid setup. Might have to design one for my usage and see how it works.
Love your choice of soundtrack when you went into warp speed
Pretty cool tool but the first thing I do before I would even attempt to sharpen any saw blades is clean it. Many saw blades get built up with dried sap, resin and wood glues that will appear to dull the blade when all you needed to do is clean it properly. I use a top of a 5 gallon HD bucket and the blades sit in there perfectly,. I then soak it in either some blade cleaner or I use Simple Green. let it soak, then scrub it with a brass wire brush, dry it off and test it. If it's still dull, then yes you could go ahead and try to sharpen it. But I agree with KOTC, if it's still dull after cleaning, I'll just replace it since this is very time consuming. Cheers!
Haha like King said, sounds like a lot of work lol. I'll give it a shot and see if it works. Simple green is some good stuff. Thanks for the comment William!
Shouldn’t you have to go with the angle every other tooth then the other teeth the opposite angle on the other teeth ?
correct.. but that still doesn't fix a worn kerf, which is there for clearance and side surface contact area reduction. The validity of re-sharpening depends on first assessing the condition of the cutting edges. More times than none, it makes more sense to replace "simple" blades like these. I typically only re-sharpen drill bits (some) and lathe and Mill cutters.
Not on most blades, it is the top grind that varies on some blades, not the front face grind. I have used it on alternate bevel, rip and triple chip blades.
Ole Anderson thanks just asking.
@@oleanderson3693 Firstly his blade is already angled as you can see if you watched him set it up. Secondly, every single blade I own has alternating angles on the faces of the teeth.
the machine does the angles. i think he should have used it a few times before making the video. user errors are the most common reason for poor sharpening of any equipment. i can't count how many times I've seen people "sharpen" chainsaw blades that were pretty much destroyed by improper use of the machine
Nice that it didn't make much noise when you turned the cutter machine on. Once the grinding wheel came in contact with that carbide tooth, that noise sure made up for the earlier quite. LOL