Engine Building Part 2 - Gapping Rings, Installing Pistons in a 350 Chevy
Ring Gapping, installation, piston installation, checking for crankshaft binding. 350 Chevy small block.
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This is why I watch a variety of people, everyone teaches a little something that someone else don't. Thank you sir.
I appreciate that!
I have a 91 chev 4.3 what roller lifters can I use were do I get over size valve covers for this application
@@PetesGarage Are 4 cylinders pretty much the same thing such as the honda civics?
Adept Ape is another great channel
Very thorough! Best video I’ve seen
Thanks Pete, looking forward to more!
That was an amazing video. I love how you show the entire process: not skipping over valuable parts. I remember the first time I was putting a piston in and I hammered it as hard as you would to hammer a wheel stud out of a huge diesel truck, and afterwards, the piston was in, but the crank was totaled: $900. Dad was so pissed off
ooooooo, that was an expensive lesson.
@@PetesGarage Hello Pete ,Charles I bought a sbc engine from Summit it's a 4 bolt main , two piece rear main seal . The problem I have is in front wear the timing chain goes the block has two holes that goes to the lifter's is that normal .
it's wasn't your fault, you are the learner, problem always the teacher.
Attention to details is a must. Glad you are teaching that. Great job!
Thank you Keith
Keith Mann hgovkvk
Love how you show the whole process keep up the great work..👍
Thanks Rob, I appreciate your comment.
yeah, it's the little things that other people miss. i'm learning but i feel like i'd have better chance of not totally screwing up after watching this series
great video man, thanks! you include a lot of details on the minor things that other videos don't cover.
Glad it was helpful!
The chamfer on the connecting rod faces the front of the engine, timing cover side
Going back and watching these videos again after about a year. Edit:I guess i watched them again about 3 months ago. Must be addictive.
There's always something to learn
great video i feel like you showed everything, a lot of people on youtube just skim through things and skip steps but you showed everything you have the best video about this stuff out there thank you.
That's very nice to say, thank you Andrew
Good job thank you so much Pete, your video is really educative. Am looking forward to seeing more videos on different cars engines installation
Glad you enjoyed it!
2 year old video but awesome to be here. very nicely done and good instructions and well explained. Thanks Pete's garage
Thank you my friend
Pete excellent video on the build process in real time. Nice to see how it’s really done. Thanks for sharing stay well Artie 👍🇺🇸
Thanks 👍
Thank you so much for these step-by-step videos, Pete! I am not a mechanic, but I have a 350 that I want to build and put in my 55 Chevy pickup. These videos will help me sooooo much!
You can do it!
I’m rebuilding a Honda 4 cyl vtec and this was still very helpful. Nice video 👍🏼
Glad it helped!
Fantastic video and explanation, thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video series. Thank you for posting.
Thanks Jim
Great video Pete, it's so nice to watch someone that actually knows what he's doing instead of the ones that "think" they know.
Thanks Craig, it's good to get a variety of opinions
Appreciate you showing the real time and the step by step,great video
Thanks Richard
Thank you sir 🙏 I’ve torn down the 5.7 HEMI to the block, for my grand Cherokee. These little videos are educating me on what I must do for the rebuild. I appreciate the vids. Keep ‘em coming.
Right on
Wow! How have I only just discovered this gold mine? Only took this video for me to get addicted. Top quality. 10/10 already recommended to a friend. Everything you'd need to know, and then some more on top.
That is awesome! Thanks Shane
I watched this video when I rebuilt my ‘67 283. I just ran across it and watched it AGAIN for shizzles and giggles!! Man you are good buddy! I remember how much attention has to be paid at dots and beveled edges and etc etc. The 1 hour engine build is a great line! Countless hours and hard work! Thank you again!!
Awesome, thank you very much James
God bless you pete.Very categorically done, kudos and thank you.Also you may just need to oil your piston insertion tool. Thank you for this whole engine rebuild vid.
Thank you my friend 👍
Thanks Pete, very thorough and helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
Great videos Pete thanks
Great video. Really enjoy the context, and almost feel the confidence rising to build my own engine. Only thing missing...check book to match. Till then, your videos will keep the dream alive.
You can do it
Hi pete, I have been a subscriber for a long time. The videos that i enjoy watching are your engine Building videos especially the small block chevy rebuilds.
Thanks Michael
Forde Engine
New subscriber, love your videos. There are very few people that go into good detail on the little things like you do and its appreciated. Starting two engines tomorrow and this series helps greatly. Keep turning wrenches man.
Thanks and have fun!
Thanks Pete for a really good descriptive video 😁😁
Thanks my friend
Thanks Pete, your videos help a lot of people like myself, so I don't drop the ball while rebuilding a 305. A 350 is already in the pipeline.
Great to hear!
Wow man great video! Keep them coming.
Thanks my friend
thanks for all the tips
Thanks for watching
Another great video man. Keep it up!
Thanks again Benjamin
Thanks for doing this vid best in explaining how to rebuild your engine
No problem 👍
outstanding video and appreciate how you show every step. i like the detail. show it like it really is. Thank You 👍
Thank you Arthur!
Rewatching your videos again...it's giving me the engine building bug. I haven't built an engine in almost a year. I think I'm due lol. Btw you were right when i asked about using STP as assembly lube. Used it on the last engine and no problems at all.
That's awesome! It's time for me too. I think people overthink assembly lubes.
Good question I always wondered that I saw a gentleman building a 1600 Vw bug engine and that's all he swears by half oil without detergent and STP say he's been doing it for x amount of year's zero problems.
Wow your are the best I'm learning some good stuff, for my rebuild of my magnum 3.9 gracias amigo
That is awesome! Thank you my friend
I had a 3.9 magnum in an old Dakota. The damn thing was nearly indestructible. But if you have a Dodge truck I think I'd skip the 3.9 rebuild and just do a 318 (5.2) or 360 (5.9) swap. All three are nearly indestructible but the 318 is my favorite. With the right top end those things will love to rev and make some power.
SMART MECHANIC...........GOOD VIDEO .THIS GUY WOULD BE A EXCELLENT INSTRUCTOR
Wow, thanks
True teaching ability. Thank you
Thanks my friend
That was a great tutorial. Thanks a lot. Keith in UK.
Thanks my friend
I am building believe it or not the same set up. This video is perfect for my project. Thank you so much appreciate it.💪💪💪💪💪💪
Enjoy it
GREAT VIDEO & EDUCATION!!!! I LEARNED SO MUCH!!!
Thanks John
Best car videos Hands down
Thank you very much my friend
Throwing 30 over pistons and rings bearings with a home job in a 400 sbc today. Haven't done it in 20 years . Good reminder video.
Glad it helped
@@PetesGarage yes it did bottom end all together. Was weird used the same pistons as you
Great tutorial. Thank you!
You're very welcome!
Very helpful. Thank you.
You're welcome!
Very well demonstrated, thanks
Thanks Bobo
Thanks for such detailed video
My pleasure
Also: ring gap is dependent on your usage. The one mentioned in this build seems to be a common NA engine type. A Nitrous or boosted engine with 18 Lb boost will call for .007" per inch of bore diameter. When grinding rings, only grind one side of the ring. That way you can easily keep the ends parallel and the gap even. (As an experiment: Grind two ends at the same time and compare by squeezing the ring together. The outside corner touches and the inner corner has a gap.) Lastly: When preparing your block: Very gently debur and round off the top edge of all cylinders. That way it is less likely to catch and break a ring during piston install. Good video!
Great comment, thank you
Yea my silverlite piston called for .026 street strip.Rings came out of motor as .033
Thanks for a great video.
Glad you liked it!
your channel has inspired me to build an engine. Looking for blocks
Awesome! You can do it
Thanks Pete. I have a 383 stroker engine that I had fully built in 2008. After putting it in my 1966 Chevelle, I moved away for college. I only drove the car a few times (less than 500 miles), but when I did drive it, I drove it hard. I was young and reckless. I am now 30 and got the car out of my moms garage in Illinois and into my garage in PA. After doing some assessment, I found 4 broken pistons caused by what I would assume to be detonation. Like I said, I drove the car hard and not very often. These videos of yours are going to help me tremendously when it comes to fixing my engine. I know it would be best to have a pro do this, but TBH, no man should ever let another man touch his car without him present haha. And how the hell am I going to evolve as a Car Guy if my "work" is just opening of the bill fold? Thank you for being a resource for myself and so many others!
Right on my friend....you gotta build it yourself
good video.. 👍 can't wait for the next one.
It's out!
Thank you great video very clear
Thanks Saul
very nice video and for the details. thank you for the help.
Thanks for watching
Thanks from Egypt.
Thank you my friend
You are an awesome instructor. :)
Thank you my friend
Nice working
Excellent explaination
Thanks my friend
I like your attention to detail.
It's the details that help make you successful.
even if i have seen it before we still like your vids
I try to put something new in every video
That was awesome!
Thanks my friend
love the 4 bolt mains 👍🏾
Me too!
Well said and done ✅ I subscribed 👏🏻👍🏻
Welcome my friend
Love the way you work.
Thank you my friend
God job i like yours works
Thank you my friend
Thanks Pete
Best video yet!
Thanks my friend
Really helpful 👍💯
Glad you think so!
Great vid Pete 👌
Thanks my friend
I really appreciate the time you put into the engine build videos. I have restored many complete cars but never built a motor, or transmission. It is time my 61 rambler restomod gets a new heart beat. I was wondering if you have a video demonstrating how to file the rings if you do need to increase the gap and the tool you like to use to accomplish the task. Thank you again.
I do have a video about rings. It's on the last 440 build I did.
I like the program
thanks you solved my confusion how to measure it. I watched 19 videos no one explained that easily like you did
I'm happy to help
@@PetesGarage thanks
Just want to say I love your videos but the clicking the torque wrench twice is a good thing. I'm an engine and prop mechanic on C-130s and the reason you do this is because first off, there is oil in the torque wrench that causes deviation and that second click ensures the oil is moved inside the torque wrench. Second, all metal stretches. It's small but in my field absolutely measurable when you're applying 400 ft lbs to a mount bolt or Sweeny wrench. On the Sweeny you can see with the protractor on it the excess movement better first and second click. Obviously it's more noticable if you further bump the prop back and forth a little while torquing. I know this is only 40 ft lbs but I promise you aren't wearing out your torque wrench by done clicking. But otherwise, thank you for the vids!
Great comment, thank you for sharing
Your videos are very good.
Thank you very much!
That was really helpful, I’m doing a z1000 , it’s daunting for me but that’s so helpful, thank you. And you’re a nice geeza. From Simon in the UK
Thank you Simon, good luck with that Z
real nice video, ty for posting sir. will be building me a 350 vortec soon this will be helpful.
Awesome! Good luck
i like the way u set ur pistons in all at one time instead of as u mentioned.. assemble set it aside.. i like to do them all at once individually as well.. its good peace of mind.. lol
Makes sense
Great video
Thanks my friend
Love it!
Me too!
Thanks Pete!
No worries!
Badass video. I’m doing the exact same engine.
That's awesome! good luck
Thanks so much brother. Regards
My pleasure!
Great video, good info and interesting to watch. Thanks for a lot of the good tips, my only 2 cents are, yes "clicking" the torque wrench multiple times may move it out of accuracy faster, however if fasteners still move when you click it the second or third time then it is indeed torquing it even finer and closer to the mark. A lot of the machinery manuals I use at work specifically tell you to do this. First click is within manufacturers tolerance for the torque wrench (assuming it's been calibrated), sometimes that is pretty damn close to the money and it wont move after that on the same setting, other times it's 3-6 percent off on the initial click and will need additional clicks if you want the actual torque closer to what the wrench is set and calibrated to. Keep up the awesome videos though
Thanks for the comment
Thanks you sir have learnt something
It's my pleasure
@@PetesGarage thanks
Awesome videos Pete. And you've replayed nearly every question asked in the comments. Too bad you don't film such builds anymore.
I try my best. I would, but how many times can I film building a 350...lol
Top video Top man 😊
Thanks! 😀
Love u man. U r great help
Thanks my friend
Another outstanding video for any engine builder. I know I may have asked before, but I didnt see you do it on this build. Do you check the gap between rod cap pairs?
Thanks my friend, yes I do check the rod clearances, but they are purchased to the standard grind size.
Hi Pete, So a question for myself, i purchased a set of eagle H beam rods for my sr20, standard sizing same with bearings, would you recommend i check anyway? They are to be installed on a factory crank, no machining. Also, I have CP pistons, niether the pistons or the rods show any specific orientatioin, other than underside of the pistons have CP and serial and rods Have eagle ink stamp on one side and serial number on the other. Thanks Pete
@@spiriteddiscoveries3903 If they are Eagles and you place on a Sunnen Rod clearance tool you will soon find out why you don't want Chinese rods. I learned the hard way too. They will be egg shaped once torqued to proper specifications. The BE on a good rod (Carrillo) should hold true to plus or minus 0.0002" after proper torque is applied. You will be lucky to hold 0.001" on an Eagle rod.
Fantastic thanks
Most welcome
Great video bud
Thanks 👍
I dont have a chevy but this information is good i tell you
Thanks Lawrence
If the opportunity presents itself, I would love to see a video on setting timing as well as how to break-in a sbc. I only ask because of the educational quality of your videos.
Thanks for the idea!
Do you have to use a “plastigauge” for the connecting rods?
Yes
Thank you
You're welcome
Did you check the thrust on the crank after it's bolted in?,
Absolutely
I've built some engines in my day and I must say your video is excellent. Your approach is right on the money. I like the cleanliness and the gloves. I noticed the spotless block as well. You say in the video that this isn't going to be a very big build, but I notice the Eagle rods, which are good for 600 HP. That would be a lot for a street engine. So what are the goals of this build? Thanks and I will be checking out your other videos.
Thank you very much Dave. I treat every engine the same. It is going in a '76 Vette daily driver. The goal is a little more HP than factory that is reliable.
I always dunk the piston(s) into a can of oil immediately before installation into the cylinder(s). After tightening the rod bolts/nuts, I wipe the top(s) of the piston(s) off in order to avoid having a lot of oil in the combustion chamber(s). In this way, there is plenty of lubrication available upon startup and very little piston/bore wear.
Thanks for the comment Ed. Good stuff!
@@PetesGarage: Thank you. I am a mechanical engineer who owns a repair shop, and I have been a gearhead rebuilding engines from lawnmowers to heavy construction equipment since I was in high school fifty years ago. I also worked in the defense/aerospace business for quite some time, but cars, trucks, and racing were never far away. Keep up the good work.
Great videos! I have a question, you had the block decked, are there any precautions that need to be taken when purchasing pistons/rods? Would the piston extend past the cylinder wall or is the amount decked off negligible? Thank you!
Great question! The amount taken off is not enough to cause concern
On a race motor with dome pistons or if your heads are decked some also u might need to make Shure your valves can clear the Piston right?
Correct
Hey Pete, thanks for the great video! I’m teaching myself mechanical stuff by working on an old 250cc one cylinder engine. Seems like I need new piston rings now after running a compression test. Was wondering if you have any thoughts on re-using the rod/bearings/bore/hone that is existing in a 30 year old engine. Trying to keep cost to a minimum.
Sounds great!
It very interesting
Thanks
Awesome video, I’m following along with my 383 build, first build for me. I had a question, what ring gap would you recommend for a 383? naturally aspirated no more than 500 hp. My feeler gauge says I’m at .016 for 1st and 2nd. I see lots of different answers, but I really like your videos.
Follow what the ring manufacturer recommends