Top DIY Tips for installing a TV on a hollow wall - from fixings, stud detection, hole cutting and filling.
This week I installed a new 50" LED TV on a hollow wall. This video catalogues everything I went through, from excavating the void behind, to strengthening the fixing points and making good afterwards.
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TODAY'S TOOLKIT:
- Samsung 50 Ich BU8000 UHD Crystal 4K Smart TV geni.us/RE7q1 (Amazon)
- Bosch Truvo Detector geni.us/xy7q (Amazon)
- Bosch 9pcs HSS Hole Saw Set geni.us/d3wI0 (Amazon)
- RJ45 Crimping Tool, connectors and tester geni.us/yyAZ5 (Amazon)
- RJ45 Connectors geni.us/BTMYa
- Dec-Patch filler bit.ly/3UU3kgl
- Easi-Fill (4kg snagging pack) bit.ly/3TSrRB2
- Milwaukee M12 BPD BPD percussion drill driver geni.us/KPLx (Amazon)
- Trend Impact Driver (no battery) geni.us/xzfHdG (Amazon)
- Trend 5AH battery geni.us/gj5R (Amazon)
- Tred Fast Charger geni.us/6Elpc (Amazon)
0:00 Introduction
1:03 Master Plan
2:08 How to Detect Studs
3:51 Using a Multi-Tool
5:09 Fixing Points
7:02 Impact vs Hammer Action
8:37 Hole Saws
9:01 DIY Ethernet Cables
10:54 TV Install
11:52 Prep Holes for Filling
13:59 Filling the Holes
16:25 Subscribing to Me!
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Charlie DIYte
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#hollow #wall #TV
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8:01 you can achieve the exact same result getting the long screw in with even smaller drill drivers by adding a tiny bit of oil on the top of the screw which I always recommand for longer screws cause you lower the heat and risk of cutting such screw of close to the end and the screw driver should last longer. I had cut or sheered of the head of an 80 x 8 mm screw in a beam while mounting the solar power anchors back in 2019 when a carpenter said to me that I am stupid not using a tiny bit of oil or even butter to get the job done a lot easier with less impact on the tools and battery cause running the motor till it can no longer turn will let the motor and battery age so much faster especially the bosch green series, where the motors will dy from such usage. Did not believe him first but I had tried it and it worked out pretty well each time and since then no Bosch tool had died again.
This was brilliant. Just seeing someone do it removes all the mystery of being told "you just....." then don't show it assuming everyone isn't that first time ever person. I love these end to end ones as lots of tips, all in one, and used loads of yours when I decorated my garage about three years ago. My first project in my own place and your vids gave me the confidence to order it all and get on with it. And if it went wrong I could just shut the door and go back to safety!
Thanks so much. I really appreciate the feedback and am humbled you've used my vids to good effect in your DIY journey. Great work and long may it continue. 👊
@@CharlieDIYte your a DIY legend and guru, I use your videos for information purposes and plasterboard fixing. 👍
Want to put my TV on the wall... Once again Charlie to the rescue. Brilliant! Cheers again for your vids
You're welcome Alex. If you can't access the studs then watch this. The Geefix is still the best IMO. kzhead.info/sun/fciuabaBm2mjbGg/bejne.html 👍
@@CharlieDIYte nice one! I'm so grateful for all your help. Re silicone all my bathroom thanks to u your vid too
I used to watch a lot of you videos in the past and this is the first I've watched in several months. I applauded you on how much useful information you cram into such a short video. Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge. Look forward to going back and watching the rest of your videos!
Thanks John. Really appreciate you returning to my vids (and for your feedback) and good to hear from you again. 👊
Watched on Monday, did the “new TV wall mounting” job two days before. Well, the TV has at least stayed on the wall over the weekend, but my confidence in the job would have been much enhanced if I’d had the benefit of this golden nugget of DIY wisdom beforehand. Might have to revisit ... Cheers again, Charlie!
Thanks Chris. Sounds like you've done a good job but if you have any concerns, you can redo with Geefix, and in this video kzhead.info/sun/fciuabaBm2mjbGg/bejne.html I show you how with a simple jig you can drill right over the original hole to insert the Geefix. 👍
Good job for using the network cable. Can't beat cable.
Always a pleasure to watch you work.
Charlie - after all of the testing of plasterboard fixings, you then add short studs for support! (completely agree I would have done exactly the same!)
A lot of valuable information packed into a relatively short amount of time! Well done! ❤️🌻
Great Vid! Pass through RJ45 connectors are so much easier to use. The wires stick out the end, meaning that you can see that they are all in the right order and then cut them to length.
Great Video Charlie, really like the range of topics and advice you give whether positive or negative. Keep up the good work and look forward to the log store
Just to add about network cables. From the socket on the wall to the TV should be a patch cable, the difference is that its flexible and therefore made of stranded cable. Just using some old cat5 etc will work but its designed for structured / fixed wiring. Compare it to the appliances in your house, the mains cable is always a flex made of stranded cable but the cable in the wall is solid. The solid cable would break over time if it was moved a lot. In reality, what you have done is fine and will last without issue but its worth being aware of the differences. Any device that can work at 1gig will support auto crossover as its part of the standard but anything that is only 10/100 doesn't have that in the standard so CCTV cameras are a prime example of something that would need a crossover if you were plugging directing into a pc.
So much information in one video. Amazing.
Great video with lots of related DIY items covered - I like this format as it gives new DIYer all items in one package.
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback. 👊
Great tips as usual Charlie. I’ve been using the Polyfilla one fill recently, and don’t know if there’s been any changes in the product, but it seems to work very well! I’d be lost without my Makita Impact driver, I do use it every day in my day job, but at home it gets plenty of action. Upgraded recently to all singing and dancing model with multiple torque settings, and it’s much less aggressive making it more versatile around DIY projects. Have a great week👍
Super detailed as always. Absolutely love your videos 👌🏻
Thanks, I really appreciate that 👌👊
Brilliant! So nice to see that some of the methods I've developed myself during 40 years of DIY are right here. But I did buy some of those blade filler knives a year or so ago after you demoed them on your channel and I have to say I wouldn't be without them now. They're superb! PS I even cut the lawn with ear defenders on because of my tinnitus so completely understand.
Thanks Charlie, that was very informative, great video
Another good vid Charlie. Just done the wall plug and hole filling myself this last week and used all three methods to sort them out. Looking forward to the log store.
Ah, great work and thanks again for watching. Yes praying for some settled weather so I can finish it off!
Nicely done share, thanks.
Great video Charlie, one of your best IMO!
Thanks Danny. I was a bit unsure about this one so that means a lot! 👊
Great stuff as always.
Well done !
Got a bosch 12v drill driver and impact, the best things I've owned, such powerful little things, I actually thought being 12v it wouldn't be up to my big boy Dewalt/old parkside drills, but it's perfect and a lot lighter!
Great job Charlie! Thanks for always sharing with us! Merry Christmas! to you and the family🎄🎁✝😎JP
Thanks. You too 👊
@@CharlieDIYte Your very welcome Charlie! Thank you as well' and Happy New Year😎
Great upload I now can have a go at making my own Ethernet Cables ...once I get a Crimper... Whatever about Phillips and Pozi Head screws I reckon Torx should be the New Standard...no mangling drive bit with those Lads...
What a great video. Many tips we may have seen before but well worth being reminded of them again. Plus quite a few new and really useful tips too. If you are doing quite a few ethernet cables then making your own is a great option as you can create just the length you need and easier to feed the cable without the plug. May seem expensive for the bits and tool but having the correct length cable rather than a purchased one that is far too long is worth it. Would suggest if you are doing a few long cable runs getting a cable tester for £10 may be worth it as you can be confident it is OK.
Would you ever consider doing a video about your tinnitus? Perhaps combined with video about DIY and hearing protection options. I damaged my hearing and ended up with tinnitus doing DIY. Would be good to raise awareness and help others avoid this horrible problem.
That's a very good idea Henry. I'll add that to the list. Sorry to hear you've got it too. I think my Bosch belt sander did the damage. I used it to sand the floors in an entire house without ear protection. Funny how the worst offending tools are the ones you can't use these days without ear protection because the mere sound hurts your ears! That and my DeWalt router are probably the worst.
I have one of the Bosch 12v impact drivers, I think it's a good compromise between a drill and larger impact driver. It's very small so can get into tight spaces, yet it has close to twice the torque of my 18v drill driver.
It took a while to get used to my impact driver, but now I wouldn't be without it. Couldn't agree more about Philips/Pozi for drywall screws!
Good job, well done !👍
One advantage of an impact driver over a drill is that you don't get the wrist breaking torque reaction with the impact driver. It's not an issue with small screws
Yes, true Richard and bottom line, it takes the effort out of screwing. Log build vid this week and I used the impact almost exclusively for that.
Charlieeee you just make the best ever videos. Btw just ordered the ebac 3850e and excited for it!
Aw, thanks, really appreciate that. You'll love the 3850 👏👏
@@CharlieDIYte honestly I have learnt alot from you especially as a new home owner... I wish you all the best for you channel and can't wait to binge watch all the content as well as any new videos 👌🏽
Great job well done 👍
Thanks 👊
Lots of great tips there Charlie. If I can add a couple of my own …. Option 4 for removing the wall plug is to use a drill on a low speed to remove the front part of the plug from the wall And for filling the holes, my builder suggested to me using tile adhesive to fill holes or as a crack filler. Similar to easifill (and possibly cheaper?), it sands much easier than polyfiller which can set rock hard
HI Charlie - I almost never use a drill to put screws in because they so easily cam out and damage the screw head. An impact driver is certainly noisier but hardly ever damages a scvrew head and is much easier to use. Wouldn't be without it! Another great video - thanks.
Yes there are some situations eg my recent log store build, where I wouldn't use anything else 👍
You also don't get the rsi in your wrist that you get when using a normal electric screwdriver. As it will produce a twisting action upon your wrist with repeated use on a big job. The impact driver doesn't do this.
Nice video thank you 😊
You're welcome. Thanks for the comment. 👊
Nice job
Thanks Tahir. Good to hear from you. 👊
A top tip for the Coaxial/TV socket plates that you install in a custom socket like you have, is to buy blank plates and F connector male to male couplers, and drill two holes in the blank plate and install your couplers onto them. Now you have 2 TV aerial connections one one plate!
Forgot to add the diameter of the F-type male to male couplers I had were 9mm, but the closest was a 10mm drill bit. Make sure to go slowly (drilling) as the plastic can melt. Always nice to have cables hidden behind a TV and no mess!
Well first time viewer and as far as I can tell you could be my dad so going to sub and see where this goes!! Bob England
Thanks Bob, really appreciate the sub 👌👊
If your are making your own ethernet cables I would recommend two things 1) Use copper core cable as they are more durable and easier to work with than say aluminium and 2) if your are running cables outside use cable rated for outside otherwise the outer sleeve will degrade over time. If you want to get really clever I would also recommend labelling the cables at each end and then using clear heat shrink to protect the labelling.
Thanks Anthony. Yes I always use external SWA Cat 5 outside and have numbered all my internal cables. Someone has also pointed out I should only use stranded cable with that crimping tool. 👍
Yes - stranded cable for crimps (plugs), solid core cable for IDC punch downs (sockets). There are plugs designed for solid cable though which are usually also designed to not require a tool. External grade cable doesn’t have to be SWA.
Love you brother 🙏👍
Thanks buddy 👊
Good video Charlie. My opinion on Impact Drivers is simple. For most people it's overkill for general DIY and are nothing more than one of the latest "must haves" like recip saws etc. I spent 5yrs as a plumber and now ongoing home improvement and have never needed the use of one .....I'd rather have a second drill driver or just 12v driver.
Thanks 👊 Completely agree mate. You'll only use it for the occasional bit of decking or where you're driving home a big old screw but even then a drill driver will do the job fine, particularly if you can get hold of screws with Torx heads. 👍
@@CharlieDIYte Having just spent the last 3 days raising my loft floor to get a decent amount of insulation in, I've probably "driven" 300 screws ranging from 4x30's up to 6x150's (all Torx heads thankfully) I wouldn't have wanted to do it with anything other than an impact driver. If I'm doing half a dozen small or medium screws then the compact 12V drill/driver is fine and my first choice but with a job like that the impact driver makes lots of sense especially as they're generally much more compact than a combi drill. Horses for courses, I guess.
Thanks
I’m glad they’ve finally got this function. Love all your videos. Can’t wait for the next one 😊
Awesome video. I wanted to install the tv on my cavity wall but mine it is not sounds like this plasterboard. When I hit it I can hear the hard sound! What is the real different between cavity wall and like this plasterboard? As far as I figured it out that cavity walls are made by two bricks wall.
I've had my Makita Impact drill for 10 years, still going strong, you don't seem to get Pozidrive in screws Australia just Phillips head, though their is a trend now with major screw manufacturers switching over to square drive screws, much better imo.
Someone will enjoy in Word Cup 2022 in UHD picture. You lucky devil...
Yes! It's night and day better than that 10 year old thing it's replaced!
Hi Charlie, in a previous video (can't quite recall which one) but you mentioned a sanding block being the go-to tool for sanding. Just wondering if it really is easier or a better finish using a piece of wood because I hate having to clamp the sandpaper with my fingers and I find it much easier using a block that clamps the paper.
The reason I've gone back to a block of wood is that I did a similar repair on the corridor recently to fill some holes where I'd ripped studs off a dot and dab wall. I used the rubber block and when I painted over you could see a slight dome and raised filler. This wouldn't have happened with a wooden block. But for general sanding when you're not feathering in the repair, the wooden block will be fine.
As always, i enjoyed that.....if not slightly over engineered 🤣. I'm sure some plasterboard fixings would've held that telly no problem
Thanks. Yes you're totally right. The right plasterboard fixings would have worked fine. I'd probably have used a hollow wall anchor or snap toggle.
Hi Charlie. Random question - I’m giving the other half ideas for Xmas presents and really fancy one of those leather man multi tools you use. But…..having looked online there are literally dozens of models, all really rather similar. Haven’t quite finished working through your back catalogue of vids yet so you may in fact have a vid on this, but have you ever done a review of yours and thoughts on the others in the range? I’m liking the look of the Surge as a pretty robust DIY around the home tool. Which one do you have?
Hi Chris. I've got the Surge too. It's the best one in that it's got the most tools and things like swappable screw bits and files. It's also the heaviest. The others in the range are varying sizes and weights. Some people say the Surge is too heavy but for me that's what makes it so good and you don't notice the weight when it's in the leather or fabric belt holder. The tools I used the most are the long nose pliers and the knife.
Is placing TV power cables behind the plasterboard nit an issue. Was looking to do this a few months ago but got put off by some comments I read on internet. I don’t see it an issue but some did.
The metal crush fixings would more than hold the TV thay are relatively light in weight I use crush fixing for the top bracket of storage heaters no problem 👍
Not sure what you mean by crush fixings - hollow wall anchors? but I agree. It's a light TV and on this bracket a lot of Plasterboard fixings would do the job
You should hang it a bit on an angle and put a bucket under the lowest corner, cause those cheaper Samsungs tent to leak water when you are watching water sports programs hehehehehe Good job, man! Thanks for sharing
🤣 Good to hear from you.
The internal walls in my 20 year old house were built without timber studs, just 3 layers of plasterboard laminated together. There’s no cavity to work with either, just a thick slab of plasterboard in the middle and some dot n dab. Neither masonry fixings nor heavy duty plasterboard fixings work. The only way to fit anything substantial is to laminate a sheet of OSB into the wall, just as the builders did in the kitchen.
Seriously?! I've never heard of that before in 35+ years in the industry. Any idea what the construction is called, I'm intrigued to find out more? Incidentally, how are these walls connected to the floor and ceiling?
That's horrifying
@@frfr335 my posts keep getting removed. Google ‘laminated plasterboard walls overclockers’. Someone has posted a diagram on that site. There are just two 1x1 battens, one nailed to the floor and one nailed to the joists at ceiling level. The two outer sheets are screwed to the battens top and bottom. The middle 25-30mm sheet is sandwiched between the two using dot n dab. As you can imagine, door frames are prone to movement.
Sorry to hear that. A very odd method of construction although in some ways more sturdy than most new builds today! For heavy stuff I think frame fixings are your only option assuming something like the Corefix isn't long enough to bridge the dot and dab void giving you 40mm into the brickwork.
@@CharlieDIYte the problem is these are internal dividing walls, so there’s no brickwork behind them. I’m just renovating my bathroom at the moment and having replaced the bath with a shower, I’ve had to laminate a 2.4m piece of OSB into the wall to hold the tower shower and to support the 42kg piece of glass that came with the tray. I could have just rebuilt the wall, but plasterboard disposal is stupidly expensive for small amounts.
Hi Charlie I have a couple of corrugated sheets of asbestos that my neighbour kindly use on my side to prop up his fence , which as they say is another story . My point is trying to get an asbestos contractor to come and take the sheets away has proven impossible , if there not removing in its there just not interested . And like you my council will only take it if is put into special bags , and of course your back to cutting it up which would be ridiculous. This brings into question why are people not being help’t to dispose of this material safely , obviously I’m prepared to pay for its pickup and disposal . The only alternative I have is to wrap it in polyethylene and place it behind our woodshed , which is totally remote from the house . Not ideal but devils needs must Best wishes and kind regards. 😀👍👍👍
Hi there, thanks for this. Your best option might be to bury it which apparently you are allowed to do - assuming of course you've got the space and could find somewhere appropriate. I'm going to have a similar problem with that sheet and will end up having to wait until I pay someone to remove the cellar boarding. 🤔
I noticed you put 70mm screw into 2x4 inch stud - are you allowed to mix metric and imperial like that? 😉
You're absolutely right. I'm metric all the way so I don't know why I'm mixing the two. It won't happen again 😉
Hi can you put a link to the tv bracket please I liked the look of it.
Hi Steven, sadly this is about 12 years old now and they seem to have moved on considerably since. This is the simplest I can find amzn.to/3EnYWiQ Shame because that Nexus is such a simple design.
@@CharlieDIYte Thank you for your reply. I will have a look at what you have sent. Keep the videos coming I’ve learnt a lot. Even gonna use your credit card advice on hinge mounting gaps to avoid oil on door. Thanks again
Give me a impact driver any day less hassle and can do all a combi can hss drills wood bits etc even masonary bits are available to fit straight in, my combi rarely gets used, with hss just let the bit do the work no pressure 10 years into a Makita 18v impact driver constant use still going strong . SDS a must for heavier masonary concrete work
I've never tried drill bits in an impact. Must give them a go. Totally agree about the combi. It's a heavy lump to carry around when the hammer action is so pathetic. 👌
A drill/driver can kick and hurt your wrist if the screw jams. That can't happen with an impact driver. Another quick way to remove old rawlplug heads is a countersink bit in a drill.
Charlie did you use stranded core cable for your patch cord? You shouldn’t use solid core cables as the pins are designed to pierce the cable strands as the pins push in with the action of the crimp tool.
Thanks mate. That's good to know. If I'm honest it's solid core. So what crimping tool should you use with solid core cable?
@@CharlieDIYte its not the crimp tool that you would need to swap its the 8P8C (RJ45) connector, you can get a specialist version that will work with solid cores but really you should use stranded core cable for patch cords (short lengths) that often get plugged and unplugged. Stranded cables are flexible and less likely to break with repeated movement, only good up to a max of 30m but more typically used under 10m. Long runs of cable that don’t get disturbed are called permanent links, these are solid core cables that terminate on IDC’s (Insulation Displacement Connectors) such as patch panels and telecom’s outlets (TO = wall sockets) and you use an IDC punch down tool to terminate into the patch panels and TO’s. The patch cords plug in to the outlets (patch panel or TO) and is part of the channel that can be re-patched to make a new connection to the TO. A very simple channel link might look something like this : network switch -> patch cord (5m) -> patch panel port -> permanent link (90m) -> TO -> patch cord (5m) -> computer . The overall channel is a max of 100m. Really all permanent links and patch cords should be tested for conformance to British Standards, testing for continuity, Wire Map, NEXT, FEXT PSNEXT etc. using a cable characterisation test set, but these are very expensive, for home use you can buy simple continuity wire map testers for less than £20 that would be okay for a DIY’er. Also most kit nowadays is auto-sensing so you don’t need to make cross over cables, the equipment will cross the connections itself if it needs to, its only older equipments that wouldn’t do this. Hope this helps :-)
😎
You got builders?
For once you are a week too late for my projects Charlie! But I don't quite know how you manage to do the exact same DIY projects as me at roughly the same times.
Oh damn it, I had a feeling you'd beaten me to it on this one 🤣 Glad to hear you got it sorted though 👊
@@CharlieDIYte I have been sticking to to the easier projects lately after having a newborn boy - who is named Charlie 😊
Careful using network cable with ports on one end and plugs on the other. Plugs are mostly designed for stranded wire and the keystones for solid wire. They can be unreliable when mixed the wrong way around. There are plugs designed for solid wire but even these aren't that reliable. If the wire is solid it would be worth putting a small patch panel on the cabinet side. Pass through connectors cost more, they're nice but you get used to knowing how long to cut the wires there is enough play behind the spades that dig in, not really worth it imo.
Thanks, I appreciate the advice and have to confess whilst it makes perfect sense now you've explained it I hadn't appreciated the difference. 👊
Beltin....!
Thanks buddy 👊
Big fan of yours Charlie, but think you have been a bit unfair on the builders who did the fireplace. It was always likely to crack. It was pretty minor too.
Thanks Olly. I think I'm just a bit jaundiced given pretty much everything they did was shoddy - including using the wrong mix of sand and cement on the walls and not scratch coating so the plaster has lost its key in multiple places. Plus they removed an internal wall of Victorian engineering style bricks and nicked off with them (knowing they could sell them for a lot) without asking me. The carpenters were nice chaps though and did a good job here.
Nice video! I must admit I used to diy all my network cables, but would only make one as a last resort now. I find it quite fiddly and time consuming, and I find you can pick up premade ones cheap enough on Amazon. For the central point (under your stairs) I use a patch panel to connect all the cables that run throughout the house, its much easier to wire off than putting rj45s on all of them, and gives a nice way of being able to label them. It does require an additional network cable to connect from the patch panel to router/switch though.
At last, a tv on the wall at eye level, the height they should be put up and not neck strain height.
Yes! My wife was very insistent about that. It's a tiny bit too high still but will do for now.
Noise alone from impact driver puts me off
Agreed 👍
Option 4 to remove a plug is to literally drill it out of existence.
Yes I missed that. Drill out the middle with an HSS bit, and you can just pull it out with long nosed pliers. There's always something I miss 🤦
Why didnt you just use wifi
You'll always get a stronger and more reliable signal from a cabled connection.
Thanks mate 👊
Every drill I've bought came with an impact, also posidrive is worse
THANKS Charlie , but could you do more indoor videos ,Rather than outdoor videos , only we all don't live in houses THANKS 🪚 🔧 🪛 🔨 🪓
Will do. It's just I had a lot of outdoor stuff to get out of the way. Wall papering this week. 👍
Thanks charlie .
Thos is only handy if fixing over an arch. If you cant cut a hole in the wall mount a large peice of 13mm ply using plenty of screws imto the studs as anchors. Cut the ply smaller than the tv. Then simply use good sized woodscrews and the ply will spread the weight.