TEN oil filters compared - BEST & WORST! Cutups include WIX, K&N, AMSOIL, Mobil-1, more!
Here is a comparison of TEN oil filters that all fit the same vehicle to find the BEST and WORST! Enjoy!
Notes:
1. I numbered these filters 1 through 10 by increasing price. These numbers are not intended to be a performance ranking.
2. To clarify my statement regarding Mobil-1: since a 20k mi guarantee is becoming common, it doesn't really have a big stand-out feature otherwise (good or bad).
3. I would have liked to include filters from Royal Purple, Bosch, and Purolator, but ten filters were a lot to manage in a single video. These brands are also quite competitive.
4. The opinions are my own; this video is not sponsored. Apologies for any mistakes.
***********************************
Links:
🛢Oil filter cutter: a.co/d/1VDEq7V
Fram: www.fram.com/products/oil-fil...
ACDelco: www.acdelco.com/shop/oil-filters
Mobil-1: www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/f...
WIX XP: www.wixfilters.com/wixxp/inde...
K&N: www.knfilters.com/oil-filters
AMSOIL: www.amsoil.com/
***********************************
⏰⏰⏰ Chapters ⏰⏰⏰
0:00 - Intro
0:09 - Price
0:34 - Standout features
1:00 - Anti-Drainback Valves
1:25 - Gaskets
2:30 - 1. SuperTECH
2:52 - 2. Fram ExtraGuard
3:08 - 3. ACDelco
3:17 - 4. MicroGard
3:31 - 5. Fram ToughGuard
3:48 - 6. Fram Ultra Synthetic
3:59 - 7. Mobil-1
4:10 - 8. WIX XP
4:26 - 9. K&N
4:44 - 10. AMSOIL
5:08 - Best & Worst Conclusion!
5:36 - Chart
***********************************
More cutup vids:
🛢Mobil-1: • Mobil-1 Oil Filter Cut...
🛢FRAM: • FRAM Oil Filters Cut O...
🛢AMSOIL: • AMSOIL Oil Filter Cut ...
***********************************
#oilfilter
Would love to see you compare OEM filters as well. Toyota, Honda, etc compared to these non-OEM options.
Who do you think makes OEM Filters? Mann Hummel, Bosch, Purolator, and FRAM as well as wix, just different paint and sticker
@@TheMrLebaron honda oil filter is made by Indonesian manufacturer - nichirindo. at least in my country
@@lordjaashin WIth honda it depends where you are, in North America honda Filters are made by Purolator
@@TheMrLebaron Honda filters are cheaper then a Purolator off the self
@@waterloo123100 Cheap in terms of price or quality?
Excellent video. Short, to the point, and informative.
Great video. I'm glad my filters of choice (Wix and Amsoil) came out on top. The price of an oil filter is WAY cheaper than a spun rod bearing or a flattened camshaft. Keep up the great work.
You're the the kinda guy that falls for anything. Stop it with that nonsense! Change your oil at 5000 miles. There's no oil or oil filter that eliminates combustion byproducts within the oil. The byproduct of combustion turns the oil into a acidic mess that will damage valve stem seals, any o-rings and of course all of the gaskets throughout the engine. So sure you can get the most expensive oil and filter... Just remember to change that all out at 5000 miles.
@@davidwalker7383 So.whats the point of a 10k or 25k oil filter?
@@jonmo2694 excellent
@@davidwalker7383 excellent point we made
@@davidwalker7383 So a fram $6 10k is going to be more than good changed @5k and I don't see much benefit in buying a $10+ filter.I will buy the $8-9 fram ultra synthetic but I will change it @5k still
I rarely, if ever, see Royal Purple filters in any oil filter comparisons, and you are no exception. It's been my choice for years with its synthetic filter materials and superb overall quality of components
Very good video. I have been changing oil in cars for over 40 years now and I have used a wide variety of filters over this period of time. What I have learned is the consistency coupled with using the correct oil for your vehicle is as or more important than the manufacturer of the oil or filter. Give me a Fram filter and store brand oil in the correct weight and type with changes every 6 months or 5k and the average person will not have an issue during the life of the vehicle.
How does the oil degrade in 6 months if the vehicle for instance is only driven 20 miles a week..?
@@mountaintruth1deeds533 Short trip driving is as or more impactful to the oil than running it past it's intended life. The reason is the oil becomes contaminated with moisture and other contaminates of combustion that are never burned off because the engine does not stay at operating temperature long enough to burn them off. Changing the oil and filter on a regular basis ensures these contaminants are removed from the engine, especially the water or moisture that can accumulate.
I stopped changing oil in 1963 with a Frantz oil cleaner and Delo 30 weight oil. All I have to clean oil these days is the Australian Jackmaster Classic Motor Guards and the Gulf Coast junior. I use Super Tech from Walmart. The Wix on the Pontiac has 63.000 miles on it. Not much in a modern engine large enough to be removed by a full flow filter.The Ford diesel tractor has a flat head Ford V8 canister filter converted to use a 4 1/2 inch roll of Scott 1000 toilet paper. It has a Fram full flow filter to get the big stuff. Not the cheapest Fram.
Absolutely agree, not changing the most expensive oil and filter over 15-20 k miles is definitely risky in my opinion. Good middle of the road products will serve you better than pushing things through. Change it regularly at 3-5 k and you are going to be fine
@@mountaintruth1deeds533 That's an easy one. If you only drive the vehicle 20 miles a week the oil never gets up to temperature to boil off he water which is a byproduct of combustion. The water then combines with the sulfur in the oil and forms sulfuric acid. One of the partners in the CPA firm where I did my internship knew an engineer at Ford that was given a car that he could only driver the 5 miles back and forth to work every day. At the end of 12,000 miles the engine was junk. Take it for what it's worth. Now if the car just sits for 6 months and is not driven at all it won't affect the oil much but that leads to other issues. The best thing you can do is drive the vehicle at least 50 miles at 50 or more miles per hour at least once a week to boil the water out of the oil.
Great video. Your research caused me to change from SuperTech to MicroGard.
Always been a fan of K&N for my motorcycle. Having that safetywire slotted nut on the top is so simple and convenient.
Good review. I have never had an issue with filters and have used FRAM Ultra Syn, Mobil 1 Ext, and on the F-150 those and OEM Motorcraft.
Excellent work! Sure wish you'd done a Baldwin; been using them for years. Thanks for your good work!
Nice to see build quality. Now I want to see testing manufacture claims. Run them with known particulate size suspended in oil for the length of time and then lab test that oil. That would be sweet. My manual 4x4 94 ranger 4.0 w/250K has only used Fram or less and still doesn't burn oil. Cheers!
I have been using AMSOIL lubricants for over 40 years and their filters for around 15-20 years. Never had a problem and I used to go the full 25K between changes. I am now old and no-longer drive nearly as much, so I change the filters once a year, which is about 8-10,000 miles! I have 270,000 miles on my 2005 F-150 and it runs great. I do have to add about 1 quart per every 5,000 miles of driving, which is ok, in my opinion.
Been ok using fram filters also
Dont make their filters so there
Thank you for this video. As an Amsoil Dealer I'll share this with my customers and prospects.
I enjoy watching the tear down of oil filters as a DIY'er for 40 years with multiple vehicles. I've used most of these filters and the bottom line is if you change your filter every 5-6 K miles like I do with a good synthetic oil you'll be totally fine. The length of miles doesn't apply to me. I use whatever is on sale. Never had an oil related problem.
Nothing to deep in this video but im glad you did it and we can see the way those different brand are made, i always used the wix oil filter and your video confirm my self that for the price/quality those are pretty good, thanks for your video i couldnt afford to make this test my self👌
Interesting comparison, I do enjoy seeing the filters all cut up to see what they are actually made of. What I am interested in is the number for the By-Pass Valve Setting PSI. Wix lists this number on their site but not many others do. I would be interested to know more about this as Subaru’s have higher PSI rating of 23PSI and up.
That's why I stick with OEM Subaru filters on my cars.
FWIW....recently received Blackstone UOA for my 2018 Subaru 3.6R at 75,000 miles. I change oil every 6,000 per mfg spec. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30. Only difference for this interval was use of Purolator Boss filter instead of previously used OEM Tokyo Roki. (Purolator Boss is a premium filter with a reputation for higher-quality filtration.) Tokyo Roki has 23psi bypass. Purolator Boss has mid-teens psi bypass as do almost all others. The UOA numbers for "wear metals" and "insolubles" using the Purolator Boss were exactly the same as with previous OEM filter....but the Purolator Boss costs twice as much. My take-away from the experiment is that in my environment and with my driving style there is zero benefit to premium oil filter compared with OEM. Apparently the bypass spec difference between OEM and after-market filters is as much a non-issue as the purported quality-difference of the filter itself...at least for me. I am a "normal" conservative driver. Perhaps racers or drivers who's pattern involves constant. or frequent high-revs would have shown different results.
I switched to those Microguard filters and haven't had a single issue. I did some research and from my findings, the Microguard is made by WIX. If you notice, the part numbers between the two actually match, just the Microguard has other identification numbers along with it. But take two filters that match, and the part numbers will correspond to each other. Also another cheap alternative to WIX is NAPA filters, also made by WIX.
Wix is also now owned by MANN+HUMMEL one of the largest filtration companies in the world. Still have the local plants in NC but they have MANN+HUMMEL on the signage now.
Frankly, for a 5,000 mile interval you won’t go wrong with any of them, except for the $28 Amsoil filter.
Looking at the cut filters, especially the Microguard (3:17), with so many pleats and under oil pressure it appears like the folds would touch together basically negating that filter area, unless there is some backing to hold the folds apart to allow oil to pass through into some open area to get to the center. So more pleats may give less useable area.
I wonder how a Bosch filter would do. I have used those before. Thanks for posting this video.
So acouple of years ago after watching acouple of these videos. I used 2 fram oil filters in a row then 2 mobil 1 in a row on the same truck. Ran them the same distance using the same oil. And sent samples in the a oil testing lab. They daid they couldn't see any difference between the filters.
Good morning Dan, excellent video. One of the best on oil filters. I would like you to test the regular WIX and maybe the Microgard regular. I have used the Microgard and I was satisifed with it and now I'm using the WIX. Keep the videos coming my friend.
FYI: The Microgard Select units are made by Wix's parent company and still use the old Wix design.
@@chrisbehan6451 Pretty much one and the same. Thanks.
NAPA Gold and Platinum filters are made by WIX. The Platinum is the same as the WIX XP. They are cheaper than WIX and more often go on sale. NAPA filters also have WIX address on the side of the box.
Napa filter's bend like crazy though.
I always wonder what's the diff between fram xg tg us, thanks for making this!
Nice video! Do you know how I find the correct super tech oil filter for my 2017 Corolla?
How would you rate the PurolatorBoss vs the Amsoil and Wix XP?
Results are impressive. Your report is well done. I have a Subaru flat4 so a superior oil filter is critical. Thanks
I also have a 2017 Subaru Outback boxer 4. I’ve always used the blue OEM Subaru filter until I recently learned it is made by Fram and has the cheap paper end caps! I’m now planning to order the black Subaru filter by Tokyo Rokki (made in Japan) for all future oil changes.
I removed the full flow filter on my 84 Subaru when it was new. Put a Frantz oil cleaner on it and Mobil 1. Didnt drain the oil for 250.000 miles. Was bragging about it on KZhead. A Caterpillar lab manager sent me a sample kit. He said it looks good for 250.000 miles but recommended a filter change every 6000 miles and a new quart of oil instead of every 12.000 miles. I took his advise. The 93 Legacy has 240.000 on it now..Probably an even better car than the 84. It uses Motor Guards on the engine and transmition. Went to synthetic Walmart oil at about 225.000 miles. Has a bad senser somewhere. Getting hard to start when cold. Cooling fans wont turn off..Not a Subaru mechanic. Put a fuel injector in the intake manifold with a push button switch to get me thru the winter.heater dont work on the Pontiac AC dont work on the Subaru.
@@mark8684 I have the exact same Subie as you and also stopped with the dealer provided "Fram" filters. I just switched to the WIX XP and continue to do my oil changes per the factory manual. No issues ever (and I also use the Fumoto valve like thousands of other Subie owners).
97 silverado with 200,000 miles here. Have run Fram throughout its life. Change oil and filter every 3 to 5000 miles.
Thanks for the comparison. Assuming nobody has ever collected on a 'mileage warranty' I'm going to continue with 3500 mile oil and filter changes.
Most important thing about the gadgets for me, is that they are thick and pretty pliable . I had a K&N that was not and resulted in oil leaks that were almost impossible to notice as it only leaked when it got hot.
How about the filters that don't come in a can? My Corolla, I just unscrew the can/container and pop out the pleated filter media and replace it. which of those types of filters are best?
KN used to advertise 22 micron on their performance gold filters. I switched from them to Amsoil filters years ago. I pay $14 for the Amsoil filter for my vehicle.
At Our Shop We Use Walmarts 20,000 Blue Super Tech Filters On Our Basic Oil Change...We Use Mobil 1 On Our Premiun Synthetic Oil Changes...👍
Thanks. Appreciate good detail & opinion.
If you can test OEM filter with these taking OEM as a control but for this l am more interested in actual filtration, flow rate after 3k miles and so on. Good video, gave some info 👍
Saw Engine Masters test several oil filters - K&N came out on top - that's what i've been using for several years now even before watching the program. Air and Oil on my truck, van and motorcycle.
Good comparison. But, to me the most important thing for a filter to do is......filter. I think it's interesting that you gave high marks to K&N and WIX even though there is no filtration efficiency listed on your chart for either. My choice based upon filtration efficiency (99%, 20 micron) and price ($10.97) is the FRAM Ultra Synthetic.
I'm an Amsoil user, glad to see it's comparison to all these others. I buy direct, thank goodness, so I avoid that rediculous retail price.
Good thing, or else they’d be $50
@@kellismith4329 People, their money and their vehicles is a funny combination. I worked at a Napa store for two years. Guys with $80 000 pickups buying $25 rotors & pads and truck stop oil. Then come back a week later and buy $100 rotors and $20 oil for their ATV. No joking, this happened daily. Another customer was a millionaire lobster fisherman. He used Amsoil in his Harley, Sam's Club oil in his lobster boat and Escalade.
@@TheBeatenPaths yes I believe it I worked at oriellys and these guys would come in nice vehicles wanting the cheapest oil and filter possible while the guys with clunkers would buy royal purple with k&n filters? 🤷♂️
@@drew5992 Daily occurrence!!
@@drew5992 I feel called out with the clunkers line 😆
Amazing video. If you do a part 2 please add a mopar filter! Thank you :)
Would love you to compare a stp extend life to the micro gard they look to be the same filter to me
I enjoy how compare and present your observations. Can you find another everyday and important item to start comparing? I'm getting bored of oil filters. Car batteries? Blue tooth ear buds? smart phones?
Interesting comparison and thanks for cutting-out all the "cutting-out"! The MicroGuard Select is a very interesting "newer" filter on the market. (I thought it was made in Vietnam, not USA. No?) I'm tempted to try it. Thanks!
Mostly made in the USA by a German company.
If you are worried about case thickness then you have bigger issues than oil filters can solve
sometimes things can get dicey with awkward installations… i’ve seen binded casings as a result…
@@autto101 that is the uninstall process in the bigger issue
Case thickness matters in high performance racing applications.
It’s application specific to deal with high pressure oil pumps in motorsport. It’s not uncommon to have 140+psi cold start oil pressure on a boat or road race car
Just today I bought filter (STP XL) based off of your recommendations and previous videos. So your efforts are dully noted!
I have two classic Corvettes that are driven a few thousand miles a year. I like the sound of AC Delco's two year time interval since I will never come close to the mileage limit.
but you'd still want to change it like 1x/year at least yeah?
Would recommend Puralator Pure filters as well.
I’ve been using microgard. They seem like good filters. I couldn’t trust a high mileage rating filter. I change ever 6k with full synthetic and replace the filter every time even though my car says I only have to every other change. Why not, it’s cheap insurance.
Also you have to check the flow rate on all the filters. The ones that filter more are the ones that have a slower oil flow rate.
I've used Mobil 1 5w-30 fully synthetic oil and Mobil 1 filters for over 2 decades and my Blackstone reports come back showing no problems. I was doing 7,500 miles between oil/filter changes but recently dropped back to 5,000 miles as the car gets old
If the oil analysis reports reported no problems with a 7,500 mile oil drain interval, why reduce that interval to 5,000 miles? Why change the oil if it's still in good shape?
@HiTechOilCo Car is getting older, I want to be sure it stays in good shape
@@HiTechOilCoHe did it right because of the age and multiple oil change cycles in past, the engine slowly gets dirtier with age, especially having had 7,500 mile intervals that should have been done in the first place. The sludge gets build up in tiny areas under the piston rings making those stuck and not dynamic any more. Also sludge that is a byproduct of burned oil mixed with fuel get stuck in other tiny paths that creates problems for the motor. Synthetic oil should not be used more 5,000 miles if you plan on keeping the car for long. Now in order to wash out that sludge because of those long intervals you need to do several oil changes with intervals like 1,000 miles so that detergents in the fresh oil can clean it a little bit or even use a engine flush. The older the car, the shorter the intervals should be and it will easily run for 300K miles. Going for the shorter intervals for the right choice. Do 3k miles intervals instead of 5k
I’ve always adapted Cat filters for my Duramax. Was Cat tech for 30+ years and have seen comparisons with all. Plus I get an employee discount which helps
I’ve used Wix or Baldwins in everything from drag engines to motorcycles. I’ve always gotten a lot of miles out of everything.
I work at O’Reilly’s and just want to point out MicroGuard whether that’s the regular or microguard select (like in this video) are made by Wix and are equal to the regular Wix filter. Same thing with the cabin and motor air filters.
The Select is made by one of Premium Guards contractors out of Vietnam.. Go check some of your Select model filters and look at where it's made.. and then check the support or technical phone number on the back of the box.
I have been using FRAM for years, and never had any issues with them. But because of the low price, I can switch out the filter for a new one, keep it cleaner without always tossing out otherwise good oil for the sake of a 5000 mile oil change. Just change the filter every 3.5K miles and you can stretch your oil to 7 or 8K miles. Just replace the oil into the filter with new oil to replace what the old one took out. However, if you are experiencing unusual dirty oil sooner, then you have a mechanical problem even the best oil filters can't fix.
I'd be interested in seeing a comparison to Borg & Beck
I usually run Mobil 1 or Wix XP, but I am going to be trying the Microgard Select on my next oil change this weekend
Based on your chart and physical inspection, the Microgard would be my choice, especially for $9.99. It has the most filter area and appears to be well constructed. Thanks. PS, the Microgard is made in Vietnam, according to the box.
I've always used M1, Wix XP, or K&N. They work excellent! I notice no difference. I know there are others that are as good...or may be better!
We understand what u saying about all these oil filters but how about ROYAL PURPLE? what's the manufacturing n quality of the filter itself? How many microns are on this product? Thanks for the video is very informative when it comes to the quality of this oil filter. Have a nice n blessed day.
Check out the Purolator Boss! About the same price as the Wix Xp and really strong canister! Way awesome set up that you shouldn’t over look we pair it with Pennzoil’s Ultra Platinum and I believe it’s the best bang for your buck! Love AMSOIL but that stuff is pricey!
TyceHenderson, I agree! During the warmer weather months, I’ll play around with different oil and filter combos. But as I DIY my oil changes, come wintertime I also use the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum full-synthetic along with the Purolator Boss filter in my ‘17 Honda Civic. During that time I may have to run that oil/filter combo for 4 months or close to 10K miles. I feel more confident using quality products like this in this instance.
I just started using The XP for my new 2022 Honda cvic si
You should do a test with them so every oil change you change the kind of filter to a different one you show in this video. Starting from cheapest to most expensive and have the oil tested to see how well they did.
That would cost hundreds of dollars.
An excellent vid, teardown and overview. While some are very well-built with pricing to reflect that, nobody should be keeping any oil filter in their vehicle anywhere near 20-25,000 miles. Therefore the manufacturer claims are essentially marketing malarkey.
On the chart, the length in inches is like 55 or so for most. 55 inches?
i sometimes tow and haul, i buy cheap fuel filters like Fram, and i top it walmart full synthetic oil every 10k kilometer or so, i like changing oil, Differentials fluid, Transfer Case oil, Transmission etc. never onced had engine issue, if not all the used, even new units around here runs better than before they enter my small garage. i will try wix thanks, Amsoil is really popular ive noticed, cool video.
Would love to see you do the same for motorcycle filters.
If you ride a Honda, they're basically the same as for the car.
Thanks. The brands I normally consider for my GM 5.3L are AC Delco, Fram TG, Fram US, and Mobil 1. I consider these because AC Delco is dealer supplied, and a good baseline. The rest are readily available at my preferred store, and are not the cheapest / lowest quality offerings. My biggest takeaway here is that the build quality of the Fram TG is poor for an upgraded (over the Fram XG) product. I bought it once before, when the Fram US was out of stock, but I'll avoid them in the future I think, and will likely stick with Fram US or Mobil 1. The grip on the Fram does make changing it a little easier, which is a nice bonus.
Ac Delco and super tech filters seem to be the same which I thought were funny
Just dip your filters in rhinoliner. Basically the same thing fram does
You forgot to do the Baldwin filter. Its what most mechanics recommend and they make the same filter for NAPA. Its called the NAPA Gold.
great video saved me some guess work
Thanks for making the video concise on the facts. I think that make it easier to digest. However, some details on the MicroGard filter were different in other videos, like the material used for the media (Natural+Synthetic vs Cellulose) etc..... Great video otherwise.....
How does the STP 10,000-mile filter stack up against the ones you compared? I'm asking because I can't always get WIX or N & K oil filters and the STP filter is frequently on sell with the purchase of Mobile full synthetic oil. Thanks
Buy Purolator filters - much cheaper and they manufacture WIX filters under contract. STP filters are manufactured by Champion Labs - the same people that make the Super Tech Filter (not a bad filter either).
@@HockeyGoon939 Thanks very much for your reply!
Would you do something about cartridge filters?
What is your preferred filter?
Does the mileage guarantee mean anything? Or does it really boil down to what type of oil you are using, not necessarily the filter? I last used a Microgard filter like the one in your video, guaranteed for 10k miles, and the oil was pretty used up and dirty at 3300 miles or so, typical for my car (conventional oil) despite whatever oil or filter I use. Is it just a gimmick?
just a gimmick
I like your thoughts on the Super Tech and agree. However price and availability I like the Fram Ultra Synthetic. My thought is getting a decent filter yes but not relying on it completely. A new clean oil filter EVEN a cheaper less expensive one is better insurance than a higher mileage $15-$25 dollar filter thinking that you are safer longer with more miles.
Using quality oils and filters, oil analysis test results demonstrate that longer oil drain intervals are safe and attainable. With cheap oil and filters, as with anything, we get what pay for. Oil is the lifeblood of an engine and with vehicles now being so expensive to replace, it just doesn't make financial sense to go with cheap products to, "maintain", them and extend their life. Quality pays.
The purpose of the filter is to maintain cleanliness to prevent wear so the beta ratio micron rating and dirt holding Capacity should be the attribute with the highest scaling factor used in the comparison
i agree but it's way i change my oil at 4,000-4500 miles at lest the m1 stops filtering at that point...
@@punker4Real don’t waste ur money changing oil that often
I would like you to put Micro Guard up against Royal Purple.
good stuff
Great video, thanks!
Great information thank you
I been trying to buy the motorcraft oil filter for my 2020 mustang Gt but it’s never in stock so I’m pretty much forced to buy the k&n filter which I don’t mind but yea
I've been using Motorcraft and/or Napa gold for many years now. Purolator makes the Motorcraft and Wix makes the Napa gold I believe
Most filters have a bypass valve at the opposite end of the filter as where the oil goes in. Some filters have the bypass valve at the beginning end, meaning close to where the oil goes in. I prefer this way since having it at the opposite end means that the oil actually goes past all of the filtration material (past, not through, I get the bypass is when the oil can't go through the material) before it bypasses into the engine. This increases the chances of the unfiltered oil basically picking up some of the previously filtered contaminants before it is bypassed into the engine. While having the bypass valve on the end where the oil enters, it basically bypasses directly and doesn't have that opportunity to pick up random contaminants. For some reason, most filters have it the first way, while some filters have it the second way. Which ones are which out of these? Looking at some videos of filters cut open, the Mobil 1 looks like it might have it the way I believe is better, but I'm not sure...
Ford Motorcraft filters have the bypass at the top (screw end) where the oil goes in. Its why I use them, especially in winter up in Canada. Oil pressure would get pretty high with the other type of filter in winter trying to force thick frozen oil thru the length of the frozen filter body (and along the dirty pleats as you noted) to get to the bypass at the bottom of the can. Whereas with the bypass at the top of the filter the oil will bypass much more easily, cleanly and quickly as the engine block warms up.
@@wanos1752 Yah, that's why I use Motorcraft as well, they're pretty cheap, designed for my Ford so I know they should work as intended, and they have the bypass system I think is better... But wondering if any of these more "premium" ones might also have the same system.
I use Amsoil wherever possible. Had to go to a Wix XP because Amsoil dropped their oil and filter recommendation for the Ram 2500 6.4 Hemi. So it's the Wix 57060 XP and Penz Ultra Premium 0w-40.
Lol😂
@enriqueaguilar8788 yes LOL!
Hi so what was your opinion on the k&n thats all i use if i askyou what filterwould you use all the timee ty Vernon
Which one would protect your engine the best please ty Vernon
Been using the supertech 10k filter on my 2015 Accord v6 coupe for almost 9 years with zero issues. I use top quality full synthetic motor oil and change it every 5-6k without deviation. Consistency is more important than high price filters. Im not saying go el cheapo but tge supertech is very inexpensive and has done a fantastic job for me. I also use it on my daughter's 21' Corolla with zero issues. Great bang for your buck! Dont see a need to upgrade when im super consistent and i use top quality synthetic oil. Just ny thoughts.
Fram Ultra's filtration is king of them all and for the price it's easily the best choice.
I currently have the same Mobil 1 oil filter installed in my car. When it's time for the next oil change do I need to change out the filter as it's rated for 25k kms??
you should always just change your filter when you do your oil change every like 6k miles or so
I have always been a wix or Baldwin guy, using them on large marine and locomotive diesel engines. I just recently had the first problem with a wix filter on my personal truck. The antidrainback failed and i ended up having to remove and replace the day after install. Kinda upset me a little bc I've always thought so highly of them but i guess shit happens to every brand sooner or later.
I use stp 10w30 high mileage junk and their filter on my XJ. It’s like 30$ to do a oil change for me and i change ur every 3k miles. 320k on the dash and when i pulled a main cap last month to do the rear main seal the bearing looked goes and the pan had no sludge or varnish
I’ve put conventional 10W-30 O’Reilley whatever is the cheapest oil in my 1991 Volvo 740 turbo. I’ve used all kinds of different filters. I change oil twice a year or 4,000 miles whichever comes first. Car has 164,000 miles and runs fine. I think there is a lot of marketing hype in oil sales. The most important consideration is to keep the oil level topped off between changes. There are some oils that contain various blends of additives which are probably worth the price but my car with the basic stuff is 31 years old and doesn’t consume oil. Newer cars require lighter oils and many are synthetic from the factory. They will consume oil until the rings seat which takes longer than cars built 20 years ago. Anyway, interesting video.
fram ultra is my go to, but the microgaurd select looks pretty good
The Amsoil has thinker filter material, which makes up for the smaller area. I run SuperTech oil/filter on my work truck and Jeep, Amsoil on the motorcycles and car.
Great video--I would like to comment that if you are doing 10k mile oil changes, you are probably doing more damage to your engine than if you ran the cheapest filter possible and changed oil/filter at 5k. As any mechanic what they think of long oil change intervals--they all change their oil around 5k.
As always, follow the manufacture oil change interval as shown in the owner’s manual. For “severe” usage, which can be towing, short distance drives, dusty driving conditions, lots of idling, very cold weather, or driving where road salt is used, the interval can be 3,000 miles! Since I live in Michigan, I have to change the oil every 3,000 miles (regardless of whether synthetic or conventional oil) in order to maintain the warranty!
@locomike102 - Mechanics, (now referred to as Automotive Technicians), replace parts on cars. They are not trained in oils or oil filtration. Using quality oils and filters, oil analysis test results demonstrate that longer oil drain intervals are safe and attainable. With cheap oil and filters, as with anything, we get what pay for. Oil is the lifeblood of an engine and with vehicles now being so expensive to replace, it just doesn't make financial sense to go with cheap products to, "maintain", them and extend their life. Quality pays.
I use fram, it doesn't really matter what you use when you change your oil every 2000 miles..
"I can't feel the (K&N) case even begin to flex." Is that a good criteria for an oil filter case ?
Why didn't you test Mann and Bosch?
There is a trade-off between between flow-rate, particulate filtering, and the impeding of flow-rate based upon the amount/type of filter media. The potential of oil-starving an engine due to an impeded flow-rate and the amount/type of media may (possibly) remove the MicroGuard as a contender--when compared to, for example, the Fram Ultra Synthetic. The Fram Ultra Synthetic appears to strike a better balance between the above variables, and per these variables would be my first choice. Unless the oil filter is used in off-road challenges and placed in a highly vulnerable area where it could be damaged by debris or direct hits (a design fault of the vehicle manufacturer), then the 0.015" case thickness is of little concern.
Flow rates and efficiency matter much more for racing 🏎 cars and for those with high speed engines. Daily drivers? Not so much.
The only caveat to filter area is that the actual filter media can be made from different materials. The wix xp fully synthetic media has a much finer and stronger fibre than a regular conventional filter paper which means you can have more straining with less area, think of a net with thick or thin cords and number of holes in a set area. I don’t know about the other brands as I dealt with wix for 15 years, but it’s something to think about.
I am a former long-time Wix supporter, but I have changed my tune after they were bought by Mann-Hummel and changed the Wix units to be Purolator copies - including what looks to be their flow-restricting center tube. And their decision to stop publishing Wix XP efficiency ratings after the design change makes me uneasy. As such, I have switched to MicroGard select, which are still made by Mann-Hummel, but they are made in Vietnam using the old, rugged Wix design. Just my $0.02...
The Wix on my Pontiac has 63.000 miles on it. It does the same thing thing as other full flow filters. It removes the big abrasives. The small stuff keeps building up in the oil until you drain it or install a bypass filter that can get the small stuff..I gave up allowing the oil to get dirty then draining it in 1963. The Pontiac has a Australian Jackmaster Classic. Not much in a modern engine large enough to be removed by a full flow filter unless you ere beating the hell out of it such as racing.
@@chrisbehan6451 Micro Guard is also made under contract by Purolator.
ACDelco filters don’t come sealed and sometimes not even in a box. The gaskets fall off as soon as you turn them upside down.
Good video and to the point
Very good video!
Fram ultra synthetic and mobil 1 oil are my go to, best bang per buck imo
Screw Fram!
Yup... plenty of test here on YT and Frams best always comes out on top. Fram Ultra and Pennzoil Ultra Platinum... the only way to go. (Btw... anyone who says "screw Fram watches cnn and believes the Earth is flat)
@@samuelw.3992 The Ultra Synthetic is well made. The other Frams are garbage.
@@steven4894 I respect that answer. Thank you:
@@samuelw.3992 After Amsoil oil filters ($$$): NAPA Platinum, Wix XP and Purolator Boss ALL share the same synthetic filter media. NAPA Gold has a paper media and is runner up to these three. All are Top-notch and will serve you well.