Engine Maintenance - 8x8 Amphibious Vehicle Argo REBUILD Ep.5
8x8 tracked amphibious all terrain vehicle full rebuild mini-series. In this video the engine gets maintenance with oil and oil filter change, air filters are replaced, burnt up regulator rectifier is replaced. Light engine cleanup takes place as well. Brake rotors cooling fan motor gets a cleanup. And finally the engine is mounted on the gearbox & engine mount. It's starting to take shape!
8x8 ARGO rebuild series full playlist:
• 8x8 ARGO Avenger REBUILD
This 8x8 ARGO sparked the homemade tracked amphibious vehicle build series a couple of years ago that you can watch here:
• Tracked Amphibious Veh...
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Welding equipment borrowed from Spetselektroodi AS, Estonia:
Fronius TransSteel 2700 welder
Optrel Crystal 2.0 Welding Helmet
Hypertherm Powermax 45 XP plasma cutter
Every person with an Argo should be watching this video. This is how you maintain and repair an old Argo.
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Looking good Donn! The clutches on that unit are made by a Canadian company called CVtech. The belt definitely looks worn as it appears to have too much slack. It should have some but not that much. They are relatively simple clutches and work well for that application. Check the belt for cracking in the bottom of the notches as typically that is the first place they will start coming apart. Keep up the good work!👍🏻
As a former Minnesota native who used to snowmobile on a regular basis, I agree with you on the sloppy belt. We had to fight those belts to get them on and off and that Argo looks too loose to me.
Yeah. It makes me wonder if someone went with the next size up because it was easier to find or whatever. They do stretch, but they also look squished when they're more worn. That blower motor is like my wife, whines a lot at home, but when she's all dressed up and out at church she'll tell everybody she's doing good. 😂😂😂 Also, usually overhaul in common English here would typically imply to me a rebuild, but since it runs good: "if it ain't broke, don't fix it."
Красавец! Услада для глаз. Все четко и по делу! Мастерская выросла до уровня фабрики.
I like it when you talk a little bit in your videos, you are so knowledgable :) Keep up the good work. Great watch.
Dude! Allow me to introduce you to my friends: Mr Workbench and Mr Shop Chair. Watching you kneel on the floor all the time makes MY knees and back hurt. 😆
The sound at idle though, LOL
Little by little it's coming together again Donn, won't be much longer till you can put it ALL together again. Stay safe and keep up the good work and videos. Fred.
Hello from the Netherlands. thanks for the video. Sincerely Hollandduck
Blue Flame Special. Thanks from St.Paul,Minnesota.
Your belt might be a bit loose but that’s normal for a belt that’s worn since they get narrower as they wear. If you source a new one you’ll see just how much it’s worn down.
Good job 👍👍👍Thank you for sharing. Be safe 🇨🇦
Painting the floor is how you learn Kung Fu according to Mr. Miyagi. Karate, excuse me.
The Kohler engine sounds healthy, nice work and video. 👍
I adore an unmuffled four stroke engine sound and to see the exhaust valve stem when it's doing its job is something one does not get to see ,,
I was thinking the same thing, pretty cool to see the ignition event inside the cylinder past the valves!
Dear Donn, well done!
Thank you!
Kohler engine charging stators produce AC voltage to the rectifier and seeing as one of the stator wires has burnt out , i suspect you may have a problem with the stator,,,,, the 2 outside pins on rectifier are the input from stator windings, stator should be producing between 35 and 43 volts AC, voltage lower than 28AC and the stator is cooked,,,,,, the middle pin is DC, stepped down through rectifier between 13 to 15vdc, these kohler engines NEED a good battery and earth, ground the body of the rectifier directly to the block, dont rely on on the shroud for the earth, are known for not good grounding points Donny,,,,, loving the build brother
Hey, Donn. Great video, as always. That primary and secondary clutch setup should be inspected and "cleaned," every year. Sometimes you can get away with just blowing them off with compressed air and gently cleaning the sheave surfaces with a 3M scotchbrite pad, but other times you will need to pull them off and take them apart to clean and grease the internals. That belt looks pretty loose. If you have the service manual for that Argo, it should show the tolerance of where the belt sits in the secondary clutch. There may be some small adjustment there as well. Finally, if you really want to be thorough, you can take the belt and give it a quick wash with some dish soap and water. Keep up the good work!
ever since this vehicle hit the floor of your shop, i've been watching your videos, great work, congratulations.
I swear, each and every one of us will run an engine without headers if we can. It's natural. :))
No need to rebuild an engine if it works! Good work. I've fixed and rebuilt a few of these machines. They are easy to work on. I look for the abused and neglected Argos to buy because they are cheaper.
MM77 Approved 👍🏻👍🏻
Hi Donn, there are screw pullers for those primary clutches, screw in the blot hole and pop off the clutch. They both primary and secondary look like they would benefit from a good clean and lube of bushings etc. Same set up in a snowmobile.
Love watching your videos Donn. Awesome to see U rebuild, restore, create and maintain everything. Great work sir. Can't wait for the rest. Keep 'em coming.
Good work!
😄 that thing sounded like a VW underwater! 👍
Really appreciate you sharing Donn. I always look forward to your vids. Thanks so much 👍🏻👍🏻
Sweet, nice bit of reinforcement, and in just the right spot to keep the transmission from flexing, the fix was so obvious, and well done by you, I wonder why the factory didn't do it???
Thank you for the video, can't wait to see it run...
Coming along nicely !! Covered every detail as usual very nice work !! 👍👍
I very much enjoy watching your videos.
Really love your channel and the projects you build!
I adjust cvt belt tension by ensuring it is as snug as possible without engaging during idle
Outstanding!
About those rectifiers - they need good ground!
Hi Donn, It's coming (back) together, looking good. 👍
You are doing a outstanding job restoring this thing and by the time you are done it will be almost like you got it new from the dealer. The only other thing I would do is drain and flush the cooling system to give me good starting point for all the fluids and would be very easy since the engine is on the floor and check the valve clearance. Other than that you are doing great.
Thank you ,i learn a lot and always a pleasure to watch your channel 👍👍👍👍
Great work Donn, thank you for the Video.... :)
Good job
Beautiful job as always., 👍
Flames, Hell Yea.
"More or less" 😂 got me 😂 🍰
Donn, I have the air cooled 27 HP Kohler Command Pro engine, and it's an absolute beast. I plan to build a garden tractor with mine. I bought it used, and I need to source a few parts for it to complete it. They will work well, and need occasional service, just like any other engines. Mine will need a front seal, as the output was on the front of the engine, not the back.
"get the twerking motion under control"....just let em twerk, bro.
He does good work,hay
Hello Donn good job
The CVT belt is way too loose, should have only 1/2"-3/4" deflection otherwise it is like starting off in 2nd or 3rd gear and you won't have high gear. Loose belt deflection will cause excessive heat in both the clutches and the belt resulting in premature wear and failure of both. Over 50 years experience snowmobile and ATV CVT maintenance and racing I have seen a lot failures.
with a new belt the secondary should be pressing the belt to the edge/outside. it looks as if the secondary could use some love. free it up but don't lubricate.
Very nice videos you have 👍That belt is a worn out, it goes too deep at secondary pulley,hope you can find a new one, maybe same size at snowmobiles
Looks good. ❤ 👍❤
enjoying this series alot! keep up the good work :)
Thanks man!
Hi Donn, I haven’t worked much on ARGO’s, but snowmobiles have a similar transmission. If you really want to pull the clutch off the engine, I believe there is a puller that you need. Also that belt does look a little loose from my experience, but I’m not 100% sure as it may be slightly different than a snowmobile. Great video series. Always enjoy your projects.
a cvt is an automatic transmision. so you want to have the belt tight and engadged. otherwisw you will loose torque sinds the poly ingadges highyer so the ratio is up its like drinving away on your bike in high gear. love your work. keep up the great content.
Good Stuff
Super wie immer
The drive pulley is usually removed with a specal bolt with external threads that grabs the inside of the pulley, and the pulley should not move at all before reving, there's a spring inside that control the engagement rpm. Also the belt is way loose, on most systems it's pretty much level with the driven pulley halves. Same function as a bike with 3+7 gears or similar, torque or speed
Love it keep it up as always 💘
vakman goed bezig
Hello, when at 14.36 minutes when you replaced the regulator with the new one, I suggest you also replace the connector because as you can see, one terminal is damaged and the regulator risks ending up like the previous one. Marco
Valve adjustment and a carb rebuild/clean out.
You had done all the work to remove the engine but you will probably regret not fixing that drain plug hole preperly while it was out but well done all the same
To remove the cvt you need to remove the small screw then the big nut behind
Top!
the best upgrade for the charging systems on these is to actually get the alternator kit for it. then it charges all the time at idle. the stators dont charge enough at idle so it can kill the battery.
Just starting to watch and that open gas container on a part of a vibrating engine is a recipe for disaster 😮
Cvt systems can be troublesome if not maintained. The one on the engine is called the pto side, power take off and gear box side is the secondary. Engine side the pulley slides onto a taper shaft and you need a specific puller that threads into the pulley and pushes on the crankshaft at the same time to pop that off, usually takes quite a bit of torque before she goes. Roughly 80-85 ft-lbs torque for install. Belt on the secondary side looks really loose, you should see the ribs on top of the belt just above the pulley sides ( shives). The primary clutch when you get it off has rollers and weights inside along with a coil spring under tension, so caution when pulling apart, maybe a vice to secure it before pulling the big nut off the end. Those just get cleaned and NO lube inside. If parts are worn, then they need replaced. Good luck
I must make something clear - I did not mean "overhauled" which means completely rebuild something which I came to realize just yesterday after looking up the meaning behind it after someone pointed it out. English is a second language for me and I haven't studied it in school, I picked it up from TV and Internet. Thus the mistakes in the use of the language. More fabrication videos on kzhead.infovideos
Awesome can’t wait to see it finished
So this is more like maintenance...
Your English is better than my Latvian
@@aytonbob Donn is not Latvian tough, but Estonian. Estonian language is closely related to Finnish. Around 2000 years ago they were the same language (Late Proto Finnic). Not that I speak or understand any of the two languages. But I have been to both countries several times and even to an untrained ear you can tell they sound very similar to each other.
VROOM VROOM 👍👍
Free anti-lag
That engine needs a good cleaning to match the gearbox even though you have bypassed the overall?
Cvt belt: yes. My conquest is the same.
What about the radiator? Clean with radiator cleaner or take to a radiator shop and have them rod it out? Hate to see you put all that work into the project and have cooling issues. Great job!!!
Softly, softly. Catchy Monkey.
Hi Donn ! surely the little weights in the cvt clutch are worn...
I am in the middle of a complete rebuild of my 2005 Avenger 700, doing almost exactly the same tasks as you are doing (except mine wasn't so bad!). Regarding the drive belt, I have a new one ready to fit and it is exactly 30mm wide. Yours does seem to be too loose.
If thats where the trany and motor sit the belt is to big . There should be a bearing on the bottom of the motor side that the the belt lightly touches well the belt sits lightly on top of the trany pully that how we have always set them up.
the CVT should come off the locking taper fairly easily with a press rod behind the cinch bolt
You should teach an Estonian swear word on every video!
Your secondary clutch seems to be frozen/stuck? If the clutches and belt work like on a snowmobile you would have to twist and press the inner disc to be able to remove the belt, the secondary clutch has got a "helix" with a spring. The belt should ride near the top of the secondary clutch discs. They work opposite of each other: the primary (mounted on the engine crank) will push the drive belt up while the secondary will draw the belt down. You measure "belt deflection" also on snowmobiles, and your drive belt seems to be way of... // Daniel, Subscriber from northern Sweden. :)
Best thing to do regarding the belt is get a new one. It looks like thay one is old and worn out. They will lose width as they wear, making them looser, resulting in higher RPM before engagement, and a lower top speed. To remove most CVT clutches, a special bolt/tool is required that theads into the cvt, and bottoms out in the crankshaft, and as tightened will pull the cvt off the shaft.
Thanks for the info!
No that belt is too loose... Snowmobile belts run a lot tighter than that... You should measure and make sure it's not stretched.
Morning (Here in USA) Donn! Same sort of clutch as my snowmobile. My belt is a bit tighter than that.
TRABAJO INTERESANTE PERO UNA LIMPIEZA AL MOTOR CREO QUE MEJOR
Best should be loose, but not that loose. Belt looks pretty worn. But it's also adjustable with shims on both the primary and secondary side to dial it in so the clutch disengages fully at idle but also engages just right. As it sits now it's not going to engage until the RPM is really high and the gear ratio also really high and it will not be a very smooth operation as compared to best case.
I seen that RTV gasket maker stop oil leak on cast iron tran-case when welding wouldn't, so to me that hose-clamp/RTV is a good option to stop a leak........
What you could say about Piher clamps? Are they really good for tough work?
Yes, Piher clamps are super great 👍
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after an excellent job done, and having the engine "out here", why didn't you wash it? hug from portugal
👍👍👍!!!
mõnus vaadata aga kuradi lühikesed osad on sul L-Eesti poiss. tervitused keskelt :D :D
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It’s a wonder you didn’t bend a valve, running it with no exhaust pipes
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No spark plug change out?
Valve clearance adjustment 🤔
At 13:02, why did you installed the regulator upside down? The heat sink should be facing up.
the heatsink pokes into the fan shroud so the regulator gets active cooling.
I was thinking the same but then read frank the cats comment 🤙🏻
What FrankTheCat said.👍
@@DonnDIY love your work btw Donn. Keep sharing your vids plz. You are definitely inspiring to me. Cheers 🍻
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1:34 🤣