The Fanciest Leather Seam of All?! (FRENCH SEAM TUTORIAL)
2021 ж. 21 Қаз.
741 640 Рет қаралды
► TOOLS + MATERIALS: www.buckleguy.com/corter-leat...
► PATTERNS: corterleather.com/collections/...
► BOTTLEHOOKS: corterleather.com/collections...
The Fanciest Leather Seam of All?!
The french seam is used in high end upholstery for some of the most expensive products in the world - super cars, yachts, all that stuff. In this video we show you how to make a french seam by hand for your leather projects, because it's not that hard to do! This seam is a great way to stretch your smaller leather pieces by making one large pice out of a few smaller pieces. It's ideal for gussets and liners, but of course you cold expand this to featuring the seam on the outside of a leather bag or project as well!
*this description may contain affiliate links
This is a felled seam, not a French seam.
you're correct! I accidentally stitched before adding he nylon reinforcement - should have stitched after. Don't know what I was thinking!
@@Corter It has nothing to do with reinforcement being added, it is completely different stitching and seam. Neither of the seams need reinforcement, they are two distinctly different methods of stitching. I would suggest you actually learn about what you are attempting to teach so that you are teaching the correct information. the seam you showed in the video is more of a modified Felled Seam, not really close to being a French seam....
@@orion7741 Why so rude?
@@orion7741 no need to be a dick about it.
@@orion7741 show us how to do a french seam then lol
This is really interesting. In dressmaking terms, this is a flat felled seam, not a French seam. In dressmaking, a French seam is fully encased. This is done by first stitching the pieces together with the wrong sides facing each other. Then you trim the seam allowance back, fold the fabric so the right sides are together and stitch just beyond the trimmed seam allowance from the first stitching. It's generally used with really sheer fabrics, or fabrics that fray super easy, or for a more high end finish. How interesting that the same term can mean different things in different mediums.
you're actually correct that this is a flat felled seam, I'm just realizing now I applied the nylon after i stitched - meant to apply the nylon before I stitched, then it'd be a french seam. ugh, sorry for the mistake haha I'll make a little video correcting it next week
In upholstery, we call this a French seam. It’s commonly used in high end automotive seats. Yes, same term different style!
@@Corter actually you are fine. In leather work this is called a double top stitched or french seam with or without the reinforcement material.
It’s a clean seam, not a felled seam 😉
I was thinking the same thing
I don't know why this is on my recommended page, but I thoroughly enjoyed this anyways
I never tire of listening and watching you work. You're a really great teacher.
I have an upholstery shop and make this type seam with leather and vinyl all the time, (without skyving vinyl of course). I always put the tape on before sewing the seams flat. That reinforces the joint since it is a pretty but inherently, a very weak joint.
Make a video
@Snowchild the process that was described in the comment the reply was posted too. Are you not paying attention?
Yeah, it seemed like it wouldn't be a joint that's all that sturdy.
Doubt.
@@rjwood6314 what he said was pretty self explanatory… he puts a piece of sewing tape down over that seam before he sews them down… why would he need to make a video to show that process? I'm seriously asking and not trying to be a smartass about it…
The view to like ratio of videos about crafting speaks volumes about the quality and value of the content. It also shows how great the community behind these crafts is.
i really appreciate your videos. i just picked up leather working a couple weeks ago and the commissions have been pouring in. it’s been very fun but i don’t think i could’ve done it many of the projects without your videos as well as Weaver Leather Supply’s videos. thank you!
I have never stitched anything other than rear seat seam on a pair of much loved corduroy slacks, but I watched this vid and feel better for having done so. Thanks for the content.
I like the questions being asked as you go thru the process. I have learned so much from the videos you make. Thank you!
I love the way this seam looks! This will be a big game changer for my work! Thanks for posting!
I'm a woodworker/cabinet maker who's gotten interested in learning Leather crafting too (leather and wood are usually great combinations) and I totally understand why you'd choose a larger knife for your skiving. When I was taught dovetail joints, my class and I were told to always pick the largest chisel that matched the size of our work. So if we wanted to chisel out a 1 inch tap for the tails, we'd choose a 1 inch chisel, as that matches the tap size. No larger and no smaller chisel. Always choose the tool that matches the job. In your case you had a piece of leather to skive, which is far larger than the smaller skiving knife, so it makes perfect sense choosing a larger one, as that gives you more control, which in turn results in a prettier taper.
My left ear knows all about french seams now. Love it.
Nice video and I appreciate everyone who spend times making these videos. I do not have that time. Now I have never seen this technique being called a French seam. from the top side it looks fine from the reverse side it should have a "X" pattern between left hole pattern over the middle (first) seam to so the extreme right pattern so the seam is not just aesthetic but actually re-enforce the seam between the two pieces of leather.
Excellent video! Thank you. I love the look of this seam and plan to use it as a decorative seam on some items. Show it off loud & proud! 😀
i'm glad i found this channel, because it is giving me plenty of inspiration, ideas, and knowledge on how to work with leather.
I like the question and answer portion. It's like having an avatar in there that asks the question that are popping into my head as you do this.
loved camera womans remarks and questions made the whole very dynamic yet chill😊
Great information. Fantastic idea sanding the handle allowing it to lay flat.
What an incredibly helpful and well done video! Wow. Thank you.
You make everything look so easy and simple. I love it!
OMG first video I see on this seam. Thank you so much!
@Corter Leather thanks for sharing, I actually completely forgot about the French Seam. I guess I am losing my mind trying to remember each step! c'est la vi again thanks for sharing….
It's mesmerizing watching a master craftsman work. I used to wonder why some purses were so expensive. I don't wonder anymore.
Hi Eric. Thanks so much for the inspiration and advice. It's invaluable.
Doing this seam for some time and now I know the name 😊😉 Thank you
Very nice seam and tutorial. I expected a French seam for fabric the whole way through, so I was puzzled. Just googled 'French seam for leather' and that is indeed what he is showing. How confusing that two different stitch types are called the same depending on which type of material they are done on.
Brilliant. We’ll be trying this soon. Love the leather
Beautfiul work. I dabble with leather but I'm humbled by your crafstmanship.
I'll probably get dinged but I cannot resist. You have some really touchy channel supporters sir. Did you have any idea at all in naming and making this video it it would ruffle so many feathers? 🤣 I've really enjoyed watching and learning this 'way' to connect 2 peices of leather. 👍
This is Gold. Thank You.
Im trying to teach myself to make leather jackets, and this will be a great help!
New Follower. I'm considering leathercraft but really just appreciate top craftsmanship so I know what and how great stuff are made of and worth the money. I really really like your methods and aesthetics. Beautiful.
Do it. I started earlier this year. And I love it. It's come in really handy. These videos are great to learn
Loved this. I’m always impressed by your work. I was wondering if you could make a tutorial for a wallet inspired by the new Bulgari logo infinitum compact wallet? Im trying to create a similar one but it’s really hard hahaha
Great video. You have an awesome teaching style, and the production value of your videos is always high. The best camera work of anyone I know of, doing craftwork (except maybe for Chuck Dorsett at Weaver Leather; let's call it a tie!). Thank you for the training and the inspiration.
For one of my first projects I was working on a leather koozie, frankly don't have any idea what I'm doing, but ended up coming up with a seam that is pretty close to this, but lets you glue it all in place first. Instead of skipping and folding, the template wanted me to do a butt seam, but I couldn't get it to look right, so I just glued a piece of leather behind the seam and saddle stitched through it on both sides of the seam.
This was sooo good!
your videos always inspire me!thanks a lot for what you are doing!learned a lot from your content.Keep it up dude!greetings from Russia)
Also Renia - Aquilim 315 - Water Based Glue is an incredible water base glue that hold really well with out the fumes🤙
Thank you for the tutorial.
New subscriber and new to Leather working, this in depth. I bought a bag of offcut leather at the hobby store. I also got the Skive they had which is a razor that got a curve profile. It feels like it may be harder to use it than the one you are using. The leather pieces are rather thin and not very stiff so that seems to be thwarting me a bit as well. I just wanted to have materials to practice with. Thanks for the lessons.
Really great tutorials ✌️
i have made alot of purses, good video for using pieces up
Muy bueno, no lo conocía. A la vista es como una costura a media carne. Gracias por compartir. Saludos 👏👏👏👏👏
Thank you very much for your pleasant way of presenting these videos ;-)
I always thought this was only possible with a machine. Now I gotta try it.
Well Done on the Lesson ,IMO this Stitch is one ofthe Classiest of all the Stitches in Leather because it’s mostly the one i think of in high End Leather Automotive Interiors or Furniture
Brilliant, thank you, regards, Chris.
Really nice work
Great video!
Good looking stuff- thanks
I love seeing the interaction here and new cutting mat. And see the finished product of the sample bag you showed in the video. Looks pretty 🤩
I'm gong to be trying this for sure
I don't know if this would work but it's something I've done when I needed glue is very precise places. I put masking tape down to either side of the area I want the glue to be. In this case it would be to either side of the stitching holes. Then I rub a glue stick along the exposed strip. Then remove the tape and apply. Glue sticks are also usually water soluble so if any shows on the outside you can clean it up with water, assuming you're working with a leather or other material that won't be damaged by water.
I was also thinking glue stick, but wasn't sure if that was okay on leather. Quilting and general sewing supply stores sell glue sticks specifically designed to wash away.
Nice touch with that skiving knife.
Love your vids !!!
We we, nice tutorial and craftsmanship
Nice and Clean
i love your videos man!
that is amazing thanks, new subscriber
Thanks for that, I enjoyed that. You are a natural tutor. Can I ask is this Chrome tanned leather that is easier to skive ? Ive only used veg tan upto now. You probably said what it was in the video but I mist it.
Looks good.
Excelentes trabajos
Very nice job
I was really most interested in the actual stitching. Do you have a separate video for stitches and how to do those? Awesome video. I love the no fuss, no muss (aka no extravagant intro or music throughout) of this video.
I have watched several videos on this channel, all really good stuff, especially the tutorials. Dunno why I haven't yet subscribed, I'll do that right now.
Thank you for the video
One of my first jobs was in a leather shop, it was like a craft day everyday, almost 50 yrs ago
thanks for the video. Would you mind leaving a link to where you purchase your sticky back nylon material. When I try to look it up all I am finding is Velcro
Very useful, thanks a lot!
OLD LEATHER SMITH here. Been doing stitch 4 a lot of years and never new name, thanks. I use a Round Knife 2 do my skiving learned a loooong time ago, I also use a back window from a semi tractor that I got at a friend's glass shop, 2 do my skiving knife edges stay sharp. GOD'S BLESSINGS ✝️⚾🙃
Благодарю за Ваш труд 🙏🙏🙏.
Heel leuk om te doen
I'm still learning and what you showed was very interesting but it would have been more helpful if you'd shown what type of stitching you were using. Was it saddle stitch. Thanks.
Nice. Thank you.
Great video, thank you
thank you so much sir
Amazing craftsmanship! Do you have examples of restoring steering wheels?
Hello, Thanks for your great videos. Can you give your source for the nylon sticky backed fabric?
Wow just wow 💝
This looks great. I don't sew....... anything, let alone leather, but this video got me curious about sewing a curved seam in leather like this. Do you have a process and tools for specific degrees of curves, or do people avoid curved seams altogether?
Thank you for the tutorial! In traditional sewing this is called a flat felled seam while a French seam is encased. I wonder why the difference? 🤔
Because he's got the name wrong 🤔
I was thinking the same.
because leatherworking isnt traditional sewing?
It's probably more about how "finished" the seam is as opposed to what the seam looks like. I was also sitting here going "Ok but in fabric a French seam is not like that at all in any way."
@Snowchild yes he did, he's since acknowledged that in comments
You can also add a reinforcement strip of leather or fabric over the inside seam. You can glue it over the seam after stitching and leave it as is, or glue it on first, then stitch the french seam. This adds a little bit of strength to the seam, especially if it’s unlined or the bag will be carrying a heavy load. Forgot to add that it’s “French Seam Friday!”
This is a good idea if wanting an extra strength seam but a French seam is a pretty strong stitching as is. Of course its all personal preference, if I was doing a duffle bag or a heavy duty bag I would mnnjjost definitely consider it, but dont underestimate a French seam as is! Its a great yet tediously effective stitch.
@@Handles-R-Lame I tend to over engineer everything I do! Thanks for the reply.
@@polosandoval No worries man! I hope I didn't sound condescending or anything, it was not my intention.. It's hard to convey intent over text lol anyways ur suggestion is a good one regardless. Peace my brotha✌
@@Handles-R-Lame In your experience, this is actually a strong seam? I would think the opposite is true and have seen plenty of these fail on upholstery. I would think it’s more prone to failure since the seam is depending on the material to hold thread from pulling thru the material with the stress on the seam pulling that thread primarily in the direction it would need to go in order to tear thru. The two extra outside stitches seam to be aesthetic more than anything. If the flaps could be somehow sewn to the opposite sides, it would be extremely strong, but that’s of course impossible. Folding a material back and stitching it to itself doesn’t do anything for the strength of the seam.
@@invictusbp1prop143 In my entirely humble opinion, that feels more like an issue with the material itself rather than how its handled
If I might suggest using your exacto to persuade the edge of the backing off of the nylon web.
Subscribed, thank you.
Where do you find the sticky backed liner? Or what you used with the sticky back. What is that called?
There was NO REASON for that SICK transition at 12 min. XD i love it!! Great editing, and very informative content! Im gonna have to try out a french seem myself now 😁
nice! this is a dorky question, but i'm curious about leather *armor* types and construction...any interesting directions you can point me in?
Excellent
This was awesome, I'm new to trying leather working. I have to say though as someone new I was kinda saddened that he didn't show or explain how he was stitching it together.
They are saddle stitches... probably the most common stitch you will use. Very easy. The placements and pattern they are used in is what makes this a separate technique, as opposed to it being a different method of stitching.
You can get a flathead screwdriver and pry that little bar out from over the spark wheel on your lighter, then wiggle it to release and remove it so its more comfortable to light with your pointer finger.
Nice video & good questions from Kayleena :)
My wife is getting I to making leather projects and you use that brown pounding board that looks like pvc material. Where did you get that from? Thanks
Thanks a lot ! May I know where you get your sticky back nylon fabric from ? Can you please provide a link 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Очень интересно! Спасибо!
Do you have a video on that bag in this video? Interested in the edges.
Would you use the same technique on the three pieces of the liner, or just skive and roll the edge?
Leather newbie here-what stitch did you use to sew these? A video on stitching would be very helpful!
I would love a dog harness made with that green and black. Would look so good on my dogs.
Every time I see the Corter Pounder™️ being used I’m like TAKE MY MONIEEEEES… ❤️❤️❤️
Is that a red sheet of HDPE used as a cutting board? A great place to source granite slab remnants is at a countertop fabricator or stone tile supplier. They may give away or sell offcuts and broken tiles for next to nothing.