DIY Fiberglass Mother Mold for Concrete Statues - Complete Guide to Make Garden Art (Part 2)
A rubber mold for concrete statues will fail without an outside support, which is where a fiberglass mother mold (shell) is essential. The fiberglass can hold the massive weight of concrete, and it will hold the form until it hardens for demolding. It also is light and easy to use, allowing for quicker statue production. This video will give a detailed demonstration, along with tips and ideas, for creating an effective "mother mold" for creating concrete statues.
Concrete garden statues and other art, whether animals, gnomes, or seasonal figurines, enhances the garden, patio, or yard, it lasts forever, and it also makes an ideal gift. This video series will guide you through the process of making a mold for concrete statues and other art forms. You will be taught tips and methods for casting a mold of almost any item, from start to finish!
NOTE - This is the second in a set of videos on how to make concrete garden art from start to finish. Check out the channel to see the 3rd video on how to use a rubber mold with the fiberglass shell to cast and then finish a new statue for outdoors. Here is the playlist: • Concrete Statues & Gar...
Backyard Adventures with Andy Wright is a channel devoted to all-thing gardening and yard care, along with random "adventures" that include statue making, building a pizza oven (coming soon), home entertainment tips, and more. Tune-in for some inspiration and instruction on all things home and yard!
Focus Questions: How to make a fiberglass mother mold to support a rubber mold in casting statues?
Unless you are happy to get mesothelioma of your lungs you should be using a good dust mask while grinding the fiberglass! Also a good idea is to wash the latex mould in warm soap and water (or dish-wasing detergent as long as you wash it ALL off as it destroys latex) to remove any traces of the Vaseline (Vaseline DESTROYS latex!). A thin film of soap is protective of the rubber.
Thanks for the info! And, this is important advice about health.
Thank you 😊
Great thank you. Good tutorial. Please wear a mask when cutting fiberglass and other stuff because the dust is deadly.
Good advice!
Very beautiful job and good Instructor
Thank you very much!
Your tip of using blue tape is very useful.
Thanks. Fresh blue tape works much better than tape that has been sitting out for a couple years, too!
Brilliant instructions and demo... so informative and detailed. Thank you.
Thanks...I hope to make another one soon on statue repairs. Enjoy!
Great tutorial video! a lot of questions I had about this process have been answered. Thank you!
Thanks and good luck as you dive into the statue making
Thanks a lot for this tutorial, I would call it a masterclass. Keep on going, Andy.
Many thanks!
I've always wanted to do this, thanks for the steps man.
Thanks and I am glad you enjoyed the videos!
Andy, my hat off for you. It’s a LOT of work and you do it beautifully. Congratulations. I admire you.
Thanks! It was fun to make. I am in the middle of a new one right now: a beaver. Stay ed tuned....
@@backyardadventureswithandy Andy, if you think it’s fun to go through soooo much tough work. You are a bigger hero than I thought. Lol. It gave me a heartburn just watching you. LMAO. Great job and even greater teaching. Thanks.
You have a natural talent for teaching, Sir. Well done. I am excited to see what other information you have on your channel, so my husband and I subscribed! :-)
Thanks for the encouragement. I hope to get some new videos up this summer on fun projects from the yard!
Engaging and hard to look away from for non-essential interruptions like doorbell. Helpful video & tips. Going to watch part 3 next.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the encouragement.
Thanks for the video, LOVED it.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you so much for your videos great 👍 Have a wonderful day
Yes, I'm glad you enjoyed it. I'm working this week on a beaver.
Not going to lie. No mask while grinding lung shredding glass dust into the air made me shiver with concern. Open wall but no directional venting that dust is just floating to be breathed in. Other than excluding the most important PPE for fiberglass, love the instruction. Been gathering info/tips on how to do this and I appreciate it. Lol
Thanks for watching and all! We sort of chuckle about this now, because by putting this up on KZhead, I've set myself up for a lot of comments the last couple of years, and this is the biggest one of concern for me. I appreciate the concern, and I wear a mask and eye protection way more than I used to! I deserved this for the laziness!
@@backyardadventureswithandy Haha. Glad to hear that.
I’ve learned some much, great teacher. Gold 🌟 star
Thanks and I am still learning to. Thanks for the support and weatching.
thank you thank you thank you! after STRUGGLING for months trying to work with plaster bandages and plaster of paris, seeing this step by step process completely opened my mind. you have no idea how much i appreciate this series, thanks again!!
You are welcome, and it is a wonderful technique once it is done, but not a task to quickly throw together. Thanks for the support!
Como faço para conseguir uma forma de tartaruga ❤ qual o valor
Very cool. Someone probably mentioned this but a mask is necessary when around any type of fiberglass dust. I don't wear gloves when using a grinder but many people do. I NEVER wear Long Sleeves when working with a Grinder, a Table Saw, and many other power tools, including a Dremel.
Yes, the mask is important. It is some nasty stuff! Thanks for watching!
Good job
Thanks
Thank you!
You're welcome!
Belo trabalho 👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾
Thanks
I really love this tutorial. I was learning concrete for back yard slab, then retaining wall. This is how I stumbled on your Channel. It's really cool to watch. Have you done a large statue before?
The tortoise is my biggest one so far. Part of this is that I haven't found a larger mold that I love. I personally am not excited about lion heads in my driveway, but those do seem to be popular.
@@backyardadventureswithandy I've been wondering how people get the model for the mold. I take it from 3d printing or sculpting?
verdiğiniz bilgiler için teşekkürler kalıp çıkartmayı ve ürün yapmayı çok isterdim Türkiye ‘den selamlar
Thanks!
Thank you
You're welcome
Awesome!! Very educational. Very entertaining. We got to see your hair go from short to long to short again. Lol. Thank you for sharing this this was very helpful.
That is funny...yes, that series of videos took a while to produce!
This is the most informative video on the process of mold making. It cleared several questions about making molds that last. Would you do another video on where to place the seams? Also, are there shapes that are more likely to break during molding? Thank you
Thanks for the support and I like your idea about seams and breakable parts. I will add that to the mix soon! Stay tuned...
verdiğiniz bilgiler için teşekkürler kalıp çıkartmayı ve ürün yapmayı çok isterdim en kalitelisindenTürkiye ‘den selamlar
Thanks
I put like 👍good job👍
Thanks!
Just an idea - I love exploring the potential of working with papier mache, and also dislike everything about working with fiberglass. But I think that a well-made papier mache mother-mould would work, even to hold a concrete casting. Papier mache can be very strong. Using good kraft wrapping paper and pva glue (instead of newsprint and flour-paste) rolled or folded corrugated cardboard for strengthening and supports, and varnish or pva for waterproofing. The mache can be drilled and bolted in the same way you showed too. Your videos have revived my interest in casting and sculpture, it will be quite a while before I can get back to doing any, but thinking about the possibilities is very exciting! Your videos are very well-made, clear and well explained.
Thanks for sharing and I'd be intrigued to hear how this works. Fiberglass is a challenge that I think prevents a lot of people from doing this, and it is some nasty stuff to make, but quite effective. If you try this down the road and it works, I'd be curious to hear about it! Thanks!
as an intermediate mold builder the only thing i'd be concerned with is the longevity of it. I personally want my molds to last hundreds and hundreds of casts which is why i use fiberglass. if anything i would guess a varnish or pva would eventually peel off paper mache and then let water deteriorate it but it could definitely work for a while is my guess
@@Cryptic243 I agree that longevity is a huge factor. I have one latex mold with the fiberglass shell that recently had the latex finally give out. I am able to redo a new latex mold, and still use my old fiberglass shell, which is saving me a ton of time and work. But, for some people, alternatives may be best to try!
@@Cryptic243 As with the latex which will deteriorate if not stored or used carefully, I dont reccommend leaving the moulds out in the weather in all seasons. The durability of the mache will depend not only on its storage but on the materials and care in making.. There are differing types of pva glue and types of paper and card. Papier mache can be, and was in the past, (before plastics) used for many household items, including those used for washing and for trays etc. Papier mache can be durable and very strong, and if you use the moulds properly they will not need to be soaked in water.? I would rather not use fiberglass, and papier mache is an option worth trying. But as I said, the latex is at far more risk of deterioration, and the supporting mother-mould is just a support, it could be made of wood or/and plaster, (plaster bandages would be good) which would also need careful use and storage. (The glue should be able to soak into the paper. Well-made and dried mache should not be easily taken apart if it was made properly. )
@@backyardadventureswithandy i actually started with latex but something I switched to recently was using polyurethane polytek 30, or any of the polyteks with less rigidity to get as close to the elasticity of latex as possible. it still stretches but you definitely need to add more seams compared to latex. and it's quite more toxic to deal with plus you need denatured alchohol to clean up after it. but after it cures its safe that being said I've had good results with it even being out in the sun, it seems to hold up a lot better and I can finish a rubber mold in 2 days by thickening it up and doing only 4-5 layers but it is quite more of a hassle compared to latex. and you REALLY don't want that stuff on your skin. I'm considering going back to latex so I can work without setting up biohazard precautions
you could make a jig to hold a hand saw steady to cut the leg and FG together
Good idea!
Hi, great video. I'm hoping you can help as I'm new to latex and only ever use silicone for moulds. I have a fairly large 6x8x4" sculpture of a basic altar side board ornament which is going to cost too much to fill with silicone. The alter has a square base with a curved roof and has a large deep cut out in it to place a small candle. The walls are approx 0.75" thick. If I don't want to make a mother mold due to being to difficult is there any other way of keeping the shape if using latex? Could I just use some boards around it and maybe cut out a styrofoam block insert for the cut out or is there a better method? I greatly appreciate your reply.
Many people have not used or made a fiberglass mold for different reasons and they have instead filled a box or bucket with sand and then had the mold supported by the sand. It's a little bit of work to get the mold just right in the sand, but the concept should work...
Thank you Sir! "Laser level" was Gold (game changer), thanks for sharing. Do you 'vibrate' the molds, as the concrete cures?
Yes, I do a lite vibration with whatever little tool I am using to fill in the concrete, such as a small shovel or something. Then, I will tap the sides and shake it a bit to get air bubbles out. I do not do anything heavy or fancy with the vibration.
Wow there's a lot to this . I want a gargoyle, I guess I would have to buy it for 700 before I can make one . Thanks for doing this video .
Yes, I actually find the work to be a lot up front (and expense), but once you have the mold, it becomes quite cheap for making statues. It's a unique hobby!
i am in the process of sculpting a statue in clay first to make my own design. if you have the ability to do that. you would be able to customize it anyway you like and save perhaps a little money. (not time, it's a lot more time intensive. LOL)
I know someone who used an angle grinder with one hand. It ended up in his thigh. He was very lucky that no artery was cut. I really enjoy your videos. please be careful
Thanks for the caution and watching!
Thanks Andy for this video. But can you tell me if I have all of the materials that I need Latex rubber from Tap Plastics, Blue tape, Fiber glass resin, Fiberglass cloth, Foil and Petroleum Jelly. Is their anything that I am missing? Thanks
Some things you may need: A smooth, flat surface to hot glue the statue onto for making the rubber mold. Second, chip brushes are nice for throwing away after each coat of latex. Third, the poly fill is helpful for some crevices as you get into the latex mold...if you watch around the 19 minute mark of kzhead.info/sun/opR6fbmgpZZ3g68/bejne.html you will see me explain this a bit. Overall, each of the 3-part video should help you see what I use and the process. Good luck!
@@backyardadventureswithandy Thanks so much Andy, I appreciate you.
So to mitigate ripping of rubber when drilling through it apply mild heat to the tip with gas blow torch.
Interesting idea...I'll try it sometime.
@@backyardadventureswithandy used fore mentioned method if time lapsed
Great series of videos, so informative - great detailed coverage of the process. I would suggest using some sort of respirator when angle grinding the fiberglass though - the dust shouldn't be inhaled - contains epoxy, which is carcinogenic and the glass fiber dust can't be good to have in your lungs. I was also wondering if any consideration has to be made for the ownership of the designs you are copying - I guess it's not such an issue if they are for your own use, but is there any problem selling them if someone else came up with the design?
You are right about the mask with the fiberglass! I need to consider my health, more. As for copyright issues, this is important to consider. I asked a local statue maker about this and they gave a couple tips. First, they said to look over the statue for any markings from the creator. That helps one know if it belongs to an artist. Second, they said that many statues are decades old and reduplicated time and time again, so are likely never an issue. They did say that if one of their custom pieces their in-house artist makes were to be put on the market and mass-sold, they would likely get involved legally. A couple other factors to consider is making your own. I've gone to thrift stores and taken lamps, plastic decor, etc, and used those. I have also altered things and added things to make it more of my own piece. The place in Oregon that I have made 3 or so from said they were common molds from generations ago, so no copyright issues that he knew of.
@@backyardadventureswithandy Thanks for the clarification. You’re right, there is some much historic art that is duplicated - because, let’s face it - it’s just good! I’m inspired by your series on the mould making for cement sculpture, I plan to sculpt a series of jizo monk figures and make moulds - I think they’ll be a popular option for gardens, they combine the spiritual Buddhist theme with a more light hearted execution, so would probably appeal to a wider audience. Do you have any advice on the best medium for making the initial sculptures prior to creating a mould? I’ve sculpted in oil based clays before, but would that be suitable?
Very helpful videos! Where do you purchase your fiberglass?
Jessica, it is available in many stores. I go to TAP Plastics to get my fiberglass matting (and latex rubber), and then the local hardware store (HD) to get my resin. Thanks for the encouragement!
@@backyardadventureswithandy What Fiberglass Matting do you use?
@@petergarcia9075 I can't remember off the top of my head what the technical term is, but I just get a matting, not a cloth, and I don't get too picky about the weight.
Love the video, but how do you make a fiber shell on a rubber mold that has already been trimmed? I have molds from Etsy that are 1 solid piece
I think the easiest way would be to get the concrete in the statue (surrounded by sand for support)?, and then once it is dry, make the mold around the rubber. a trimmed mold should not make a difference, but message if I am missing something on this. Thoughts?
I still have yet to make the rubber mold but what do you use for the fiber glass shell? As far as type of fiber glass mix.
I like to try small projects to see if my brain can compute to success. Instead of ordering resin and mat online....could I do my trial runs using the automotive resin and mat at the local walmart?
I think there are many ways this can be done, and smaller statues don't need as much support.
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge in such great detail. Im ready to embark on my challenge of molding a 3 1/2 foot tall solid concrete birdbath. Need your help. How much rubber will I need to get a proper mold? Can you suggest a vendor or brand? Just so I dont get stickershock. About how much will my materials cost to make this mold? Fixed income :/
From the sounds of it, you'll definitely need a gallon of latex rubber or more. One thing to consider is because of the long pieces, many birdbaths are made with a different type of mold such such as wood. How detailed is the leg of birdbath? If it is simple, you might use a different product then latex rubber.
@@backyardadventureswithandy The leg is highly detailed with creatures and niches. It is quickly deteriorating. It looks like it was originally cast in 3 pieces. Two for the leg and the bowl as one piece. What latex rubber do you recommend?
@@beerock7617 I have always used the TAP Plastic's latex rubber and I purchase it in a one gallon bucket. It is consistent, it goes on well, and I've never had any problems.
@@backyardadventureswithandy thank you. Want me to send pics of my process when I get at it?
Which type of fibreglass resin do you use? Epoxy (usually 1:1 or 1:2 resin to hardener), or polyester (usually just a few drops of hardener and more hardener makes it set faster).
I use the Bondo resin/hardener, such as the one sold at Home Depot. It usually has several drops of the hardener mixed with the resin part. Does that make sense? It dries fast and is perfect, but it is messy and challenging.
@@backyardadventureswithandy Yes, thanks.
"Kinda feel like I'm butchering a... never mind." 😂❤
Yes...I need to watch my commentary in my videos.
Hello, how long do you wait before making mother mold? Some people say you have to wait 2 weeks after latex dryes out, only then you can make your mother mold.. is that true?
I waited a week. Now, since my method does not involve contact with the fiberglass resin, since it is on blue tape, I am not really worried.
Hey there! So I have a question. I have a ton of different sized latex only molds for concrete casting. I really need a mother mold ( fiberglass) for support on most of them. Can I make my own for these latex only molds? I'm not sure if the 16" lion will turn out without a support, but I need to make an actual lion before making the support shell. Not quite sure how to do this without him turning out misshapen or wonky. 😂🤪😖 Any ideas? I tried a 5 gallon bucket with heavy cardboard but the bucket isn't tall enough, so I'm thinking maybe a 2x4 around the edges so it stands up higher & the head won't get smashed??? 🤔 Help if you can, please!
I think you have the right idea, as far as the bucket. You might need to find a larger container like a plastic box or a milk crate lined with something to hold the sand in. The key for the latex mold is to have a solid piece to work with, so have the latex mold filled is important.
@@backyardadventureswithandy Thanks for the advice! I don't usually use sand for the smaller ones, but in this case it will probably be needed. I've had this mold for a year now, couldn't find the right solution for casting, so I thought I'd ask you. I'll try this method soon, I have a lot of finished pieces to file & base coat. I want to get those finished before I attempt the lion. Thanks again!
Great video bro greetings from Israel! Is it possible to use this method to make a vase with a hole in the middle?
Yes, it would work for a vase or planter. It picks up details really nice, so that is a big reason why this method is used.
How long can I leave the concrete in the mold? Maybe if I left it longer, it would get harder and be less likely to break? Also, do you use High Strength Concrete alone, or do you add gravel and sand? Thanks.
I have typically done 2 days as the ideal time, but a couple extra days is likely ok, too. I seem to remember that the latex will last as long by having the concrete in it (I'm not for sure in this0, and the main reason I have pulled it is that slight imperfections are difficult to deal with as the concrete hardens. When you take it out after a couple days, you can chips seam lines more easily and anything stuck in the mold breaks off easier, rather than ripping the latex. As for the concrete, I just use ordinary concrete bags from my local Home Depot. They work great, and I am sure anything more specialized is even better.
@@backyardadventureswithandy Thank you.
Maybe I forgot it from part 1, but why do you need the latex at all? Why not just start with a fiberglass mold?
The latex is flexible for details. If you are doing something that is completely smooth and without any sort of feature, then latex is not needed, but the concrete will either break or not allow your mold to come apart if it is rigid.
I have problems getting the concrete out from the mold. Is there any solution for the concrete stop getting glued to the mold? I have small parts that remain glued to the mold and when i take the form out of the mold its getting small chunks out of it.
I spray mine with a mold release each time, which is made of denatured alcohol (10 parts) and castor oil (1 part). After spraying, I lete it sit for 15 minutes or so to drain excess parts out. Have you tried something like this?
I saw a video where they didn't use the fiberglass shell, but rather submerged the rubber mold in a bucket of sand. I guess the sand packed around the sides was enough to hold the shape. But is that only okay for simple molds? Given the pain in the butt the fiberglass-and-resin step is, and the health effects of huffing resin, I'm pretty motivated to try another method. What other methods do people know of? Just off the top of my head, perhaps instead of the fiberglass and resin, one could use papercrete packed around the outside. Thoughts?
Yes, sand works, but is a lot of work to get it just right for bigger statues, and time consuming. The main idea for the latest mold is to support it so that it doesn't modify the shape too much. Fiberglass is perfect for this and there may be other ways to reinforce your mold.If you have a simple structure of some sort like a bird bath.
I have a very large statue of a frog that I love but don’t want to ruin. I would like more of do you make these castings for amateurs like me
Where are you located... like what state?
Das Problem bei Clasfaser Mutterform ,wen sie oft benutzt werden ,zu Beispiel für schwere Füllstoffe(Beton ) wo ein vielfaches an Druck entsteht. Noch höher wird der Druck durch Rütteltisch...
I am sorry, but I do not understand your language. English?
How many layers of the fiberglass cloth should be put on? Is it 1 and 2 more coats of fiberglass or 3 layers of the cloth?
Most of my pieces have 2 coats of matting, with a little extra sometimes on spots that will take extra pressure, such as where I might lift up molds when they are full of concrete. Matting is really messy, but cloth is harder for me to work with in tight crevices and turns.
Would a 3/4” hydrostone plaster shell instead of fibreglass work? Heavier mould though.
Yes, different products could theoretically work as it just needs to support the wet concrete for a day or two. Fiberglass really is ideal for several reasons, including being very lightweight, sturdy, adaptable, cuttable/repairable, etc.
How do you work over size statues
So far, I can handle all the ones that I have done. I know that professionals will use forklifts and wood crates for their large pieces. With that said, there is a lot that a person can handle.
Sir how does I get this all mold .......please send me. .....that way
I find you have to make it yourself, as I don't know of anyone that makes them to sell!
I use hydrocal and burlap for my mother molds to avoid nasty fiberglass and its cheaper but heavy
Great tip!
How do you design ,how many sections to make the mould
Good idea. I have just added a comment about using papier mache, before reading your post.
Can I use any type of resin ?
I use the fiberglass resin, and I am not familiar with other types of resin.
Can the vaseline not just go directly on the latex? Why is the blue tape necessary?
The fiberglass resin is not good for latex rubber, and also difficult to clean up. I also like the little room that tape brings to the mold.
Where do you get the fiberglass to make the mother mold
I personally get it at TAP Plastics, which sells a variety of fiberglass, chemicals and materials for this sort of thing. It is widely available at other places, but I can buy custom lengths by the foot.
Instead of fiberglass, could you use plaster of paris or some other material?
There are other possibilities. Fiberglass is very strong for the weight on concrete, as well as very light, partially flexible, repairable, and more.
Very cool videos. Please DEFINITELY wear a mask when dealing with fibreglass, particularly cutting or sanding as you can get silicosis from breathing the dust. Use a proper mask with disposable filters. Basically treat it like asbestos.
Yes, you are correct! Someday, I should look back at all the comments warning me from this...I had a hunch when I made the video that I'd get slammed for it! Anyway, thanks for the words!
Is the tape just blue painters tape ?
Yes, and it works really well and seems cheap and easy. Just be sure to press it to the mold in general. A little give in the tape is fine because the rubber mold is what the statue shape will be, but the tighter the fiberglass, the better! Also, a very light coat of Vaseline (maybe cooking oil spray...but I have never tried it?) helps the fiberglass come off the blue tape even better.
I have known how this was done for years, yet, I have never done it myself, so, I'm shocked at the volume of work in making a mold. The people I knew doing it, left out alot of details, as to how they did it, and one was selling the molds, at what I thought were insane prices, but now, I see why they were charging what they were charging.
It is a lot on initial work. I've been meaning to do a couple new ones, but I have been dreading the time it will take.
Where can I find your tortoise mold build
I made mine out of a tortoise statue. I actually went back to the shop I bought it from in Oregon, and the gentleman said that most of these statues were from molds that were years old, and that most statue makers were closed down and out of business. It can be a tight margin to profit off of these for a living.
Late arrival…we making a blue mailbox?
Are you saying a blue mailbox made out of concrete?
What do you do when the statue weighs 300 lbs and have to make it
Maybe an engine hoist or some sort of pully system from the ceiling? 300 lbs is almost too big for a couple people to maneuver.!
Do you use cloth or mat
I have used both, but the mat seems to work best. the cloth is nice for larger, flat areas, which rarely comes up in a statue.
I'm going to use blue tape, do I have to wait any length of time before I do the fiberglass?
@@crystalgardner4201 I'd give it a couple days or up to a week to have latex cure, then start fiberglass.
Is there a certain type of fiberglass mat that stuff fell apart on me trying to brush it on I mixed 4 oz of the resin and 40 drops of hardened does that sound right
@@crystalgardner4201 Regarding the fiberglass mix, I follow the directions on the can pretty precisely, and possibly add a little bit extra of the hardener meaning a couple drops. Then, I lightly brush on a little bit to the surface of the mold, and then and then try to moisten paint both sides of the mat. It is messy and not necessarily always holding together, but it conforms to the different curves and shapes of the mold pretty nice. I push it in with my brush and often have a plastic fork or spoon to push with. It really is messy and takes some time to get used to. A day or so later, I pit another coat on it.
Do you have links
Which links are you referring to?
@@backyardadventureswithandyFiberglass & Resins
You kind of jumped a step , not showing how the segments/walls were created with the racoon. Hard for the newbee perhaps.
I'll look ot over and get back to you. I might need to make a new video!
Product name.
I typically get my materials for fiberglass at my local hardware store, as well as TAP Plastics.
This may have already been said before but you really missed your opportunity when you took the fiberglass off the chicken mold to call it a "boneless chicken" 🤣🤣🤣
I missed this comment...NICE!
You should have a mask on when grinding or sanding the fiberglass it's rilly bad to be breathing in that fiberglass. And for you all when you do grinding or sanding the fiberglass please do it outside for one you won't have a big mess to clean up and please put on a mask
Yes thanks for the tips!
No vaselene.....dish soap...
I'll have to try it...does that work well for you?
@@backyardadventureswithandy yep..put it on and let dry for a day
Hi. I hate being karren but please don't advise people to use vaseline or any other petroleum product as a release agent on latex. Because it's petroleum it will deteriorate your latex after a while it becomes sticky and tares some people have complained about buying moulds from some one and the moulds where expensive and tore after a few months. So look for a wax release agent. Like honey wax. Bee's wax. Or mirror glaze wipe it on with a cloth before fibreglassing
Thanks for the input and I think this is important to consider! I've tested this on quite a few molds as I like the results, and my experience has been that with my latex molds generally covered in blue tape, by the time the lite Vaseline layer goes on, there is minimal contact with the latex, and it is not for very long. With that said, I've had plenty of times where Vaseline contacts my latex. I do wipe and wash it clean after the shell is made (within less than a day), and with that said, I've never had a problem with my mold from this that I could recognize. My first mold that is about worn out has produced 200+ statues over 5 years. Have you seen this problem in your experience? Thanks for the pushback, I think it is important!
@@backyardadventureswithandy I've never used vaseline but I've heard lots of bad things about petroleum and vaseline not been good on latex. But I believe it's OK with silicone as it can be chemical resistant. I used to use blue pva release agent but I found it messy with having to wash blue dye of my moulds. So I talked with my supplier and he gave me the same product without blue dye. I think the dye let's you know you have complete coverage. I use wax release first but you can just use one or the other. If you do a Google search about petroleum on latex it will tell you. But some people don't like that advice and say it's nonsense but it's their moulds not mine. I do steep my brushes in white spirits because it eats hardened latex of my brushes after 24 hours. In the pot. But I make sure I give the brushes a realy good wash to get it all out in dish soap in a basin of warm water. And that is a petroleum product. I also use paraffin heater full. It's called in the UK. But has a different name in the states. Kerosene I think. But scrub those brushes out after.
Use a fan and a mask man thats crazy
Yes...the mask and eye protection are so important!
NO NEED FOR ALL THE TAPE . JUST USE MOLD MAX. FIBERGLASS WILL NOT STICK TO IT.
Could you share a little more detail or example of the product you are referring to?
grinding fiberglass without a mask? dude....
Yes, you are right!
Wear a mask my guy
Yes, you are right...always important with this nasty stuff!
Face mask my dude. You really don't want to be breathing in that fiberglass dust when you are using a drill and grinder.
Yes, that is now my normal pattern...THANKS!
Fiberglass dust and no mask is very bad.
Yes, you are correct! This is a big safety issue.
Good job
Thanks