Best Screw Extractor!! DeWalt Vs. Speed Out Screw Extraction Set!! Which One Wins??
Best Screw Extractor!! DeWalt Vs. Speed Out Screw Extraction Set!! Which One Wins?? How To Remove Stripped Out Screws!! DeWalt Max Impact Vs. SpeedOut!!
#bestScrewExtractor #dewaltScrewExtractor #speedOutScrewExtractor
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SpeedOut Screw Extraction Set: amzn.to/3TOQZcA
DeWalt Screw Extraction Set: Available only through Home Depot
Other Screw Extractor Sets: amzn.to/3eUF5im
In this video I try to find out which is the best screw extractor set between the DeWalt Max Impact and the SpeedOut Set. I've used the Dewalt set in a prior video where I didn't have much luck so I wanted to give it a second try AND test it against a competitor. Let's see who wins!
00:00 Intro
01:13 How I'm Going To Test
03:18 Begin Testing
17:17 Last Test
18:41 Final Thoughts
20:31 Conclusion
* This video is for entertainment purposes only*
Used these types of fastener removal tools almost every day in my previous job working on aircraft. They work well but only if used right (a lot of times this doesn't mean following the package instructions). The real trick is first, to NEVER use an impact driver (even though the package says you can on some, they lie). Second always set your drill to max torque (drill setting) and the lowest speed possible. Third, a lot of times the biggest thing is pressure. Put all your weight behind the drill and push as if you are trying to pin an olympic wrestler to the floor (or wall or ceiling). The "drill" end on most of these tools is useless unless the hole is almost completely rounded out already. I almost always used my own drill bit. If you do use the tool "drill" side, make sure you go all the way to the "rim" of the drill. By doing this the extractor will fit farther down into the fastener lessening the chances of breakage and also increasing the amount of friction/grabbing action of the tool. These tools can def be a life saver but they def take more care and work then the manufactures want you to think.
I'm in aerospace too, and agree with everything except going straight to max torque- I usually start with 14-15 before going full torque with smaller extractors, obviously on lowest speed.
I was wondering why he was using impact driver with a screw extraction bit... Most extraction kit specify drill only
@@SimplyAwesomeness because that's what the DeWalt packaging said.
Literally tried this last night to fail with the set LOL finally i grabbed a big enough drill bit and it finally caught in the screw so i was able to pull out 😅 was losing my mind bcc it was a small ass screw in my Rifle scope i was trying to swap out.
In my opinion the reason why "it's not wanting te grab" is due to the way you are drilling out the screw. You are "wobbling" your drill and that gives the new hole not the same (a wider) angle as the extractor. Therefore it does not have enough surface area to grab.
Stop kids! Don't do it like this. 1, use the drill ONLY in reverse - otherwise you're pushing the screw or bolt further in. 2, Keep the drill perpendicular - otherwise you're making the hole too big
thnx!
1) Keep drill perfectly vertical/perpendicular when burnishing/cleaning out/drilling the hole. Don't rotate the drill around or you will widen the opening (making a cone vs a cylinder) and ruin the geometry of the cleaned hole. The extractor is tapered to bite into the initial circular opening of a cylindrical hole. Taper into taper has more contact surface area - but less PSI and deformation/bite capability. 2) Go slow on drilling/burnishing and very slow on extraction. If it doesn't grab quickly, letting it slip very much will only load the extractor flutes with chips and wear the edges of the extractor. 3) You shouldn't need a lubricant for this or your RPMs are too high. (penetrating oil when screwed into metal may help though) 4) Cleaning/burnishing the hole and extraction are both done counter-clockwise. 5) If you can't bite at first, go up a size in extractor (to get more bite torque) assuming the screw head allows. 6) If you can't bite at first, try going deeper with burnishing if head thickness allows. 7) Sometimes even if you do everything perfect, it still doesn't work.
This excellent comment saved me a lot of typing on my phone "keyboard" -- thanks. 😊
Yeah I noticed right away he was rotating the drill in a circular motion rounding out the drill hole instead of straight down plus using the impact which doesn't have variable speed (too fast) I've never had to use one of these but technique is everything. Slow and steady will work much better every time. He was even rotating the extractor bit compounding the problem. PLUS those deck screws are pretty hard steel they might even have been stainless steel.
every impact gun I have ever used had a variable speed trigger
I would have thought you drill out the hole initially going clockwise like a normal drill, reversing it will only fook up the bit fir drilling , on extraction yes reverse it ??
@@filthyusratus The bits have two ends. One for drilling/burnishing. The other for extraction. If you look at a close-up image of the bits you can see that CCW for both drilling and extraction is how the bit is designed to be used. Going CW for either operation will have the tendency of making the bit hop out. Obviously the manufacturer could have designed the flute on the drill end to remove material in the CW direction, but that would be bad. Why? Because then you would run the risk of screwing in the fastener even deeper as the flute digs into/grips the fastener head while going around. Hopefully that makes sense.
My only critque is about technique. When you drill your hole, you bevel it by moving the drill in a circular fashion while drilling the hole. You will do better with a hole that has straight walls. If the wall of the hole is beveled you can't get an effective bite.
I notice that you are rocking the drill back and forth as you drill. Don't do that. You are making the hole tapered, which makes it more likely that the extractor will not grab. Drill straight down. Lean on it with all your weight and go as slow as possible.
Agree with all comments. 1. Spray some WD-40 in the area of the stripped screw and let sit for 5 min (before any drilling). 2. Using a screw gun with super slow settings drill out the screw head WITHOUT angle-rotating the bit. Keep perpendicular 3. When using the reverse bit to bite into the screw apply lots of downward (forward) pressure but regulate the rotation of the bit as slow as possible. In this gentleman's videos that screw gun is just going too fast.
Right I was like woah slow down buddy it’s just gonna slip the surface
Guessing you are a DIYer which is fine, but technique is everything when dealing with tools. Rolling the drill around as you make the hole is destroying the chances of the removal side biting in.
Thanks for both videos. I purchased an off-brand screw extractor from Amazon, and when I used it the bits were so soft they just "melted." I purchased a Dewalt set and used them on my wife's stripped license plate screws (What I get for not using stainless when I put it on). The Dewalt extracted the three screws in short order.
I will definitely be buying this dewalt set. Quick tip in case you don't have this set is to take a drill bit smaller than the size of the bored out screw hole that was done by the damage and drill down into it the screw head, then use a square drill bit with your impact driver, and it will come right out, I found out by being in a pinch fixing a shower curtain rod. It pulled the screw right out. You also want to make the whole smaller, that way there is something to grab onto if you make the whole bigger or the same size, you are back to square one.
If you want to drill a hole in metal you have to keep the bit steady NOT wiggle it around
That was driving me crazy why would you drill like that?!
@@MattH-wg7ou 😂😂same. It must’ve been because he was putting his weight on it and it wasn’t grabbing the screw to make the hole is it was just running around
My first question is, how much did DeWalt pay and beg you to do another video after seeing that last one.
My thought as well. I am in marketing, and if I would work for DeWalt I would've contacted this guys just to do this video. It very well could've been just a casting/material fault, but this video just seems so paid for.
@@AndreBorisov You'd think they could give him some tips on how to actually use the tools correctly too, lol. Waaay too fast, tilting the driver in a circular fashion, tapering out the hole - very poor technique to be teaching people.
Great test thank you. I have tried to use it once but now realise I wasn't doing it correctly. So will try again. Some of the comments have been helpful as well. Thanks all
When you’re drilling out the screw you are rotating your drill much wider diameter than the cone shaped extractor is designed for , a stripped out screw would just be missing it’s grab points not opened up like you’re doing great video
I can't be the only one yelling at the TV right now. I mean, they work great if used properly.
😂😂 me too lmao
I bought a speed out years ago. I was finally able to try it out and it worked like a charm.
Been using Action quality screw extractors and found out that when drilling out a hole in the screw, drill as deep as possible so that the removal bit goes all the way in. That way it has most grip plus it won't break at the tip just like the DeWalt did but it will benefit from the thick core when all the way in. That DeWalt would not break if you had it in a bit deeper.
i bought a set like this years ago, didnt need them yet but the instructions said no impact, always use reverse, and run them as slow as possible.
With that style of extractor, you have to pay the extra money for the "cobalt" steel version if available. The DeWalt set looks like it may be cobalt. Also, if you're using a regular drill bit on a screw head, you really need a cobalt steel set on it...many screws, especially ones used for construction, are way harder than most people think. HSS bits generally get completely torn up trying to drill out screw heads. Others have mentioned that the drill bit end of the extractors are intended to be run in all the way down to the curved radius end of the bit.
I've used SpeedOuts for years, never had the problem you had with the drill end. Always cuts clean, ALWAYS bites.
i've had mixed results with these screw extractors. i have the same brands (dewalt and speedout). i would say i am able to get a screw out about 60% of the time.
I would prefer you just get to the point in 3 or 4 mins, then do the long detailed but after. Seems sharpness is key. I bought a set that didn't work well at all
This is a test in easiest scenario for those extractors. The previous video had the screw off-centre to the hole in the handle, so thread jammed with the metal handle
Milwaukee now released a similar tool in May 2023. It would be interesting to see it tested and to know if Milwaukee actually had their own set made or was it just "Re branded". Is is made of the same material as the dewalt etc.
I drop some TAP cutting fluid to bore out deeper in the screw and then extract.
Awesome video Dude, very informative.Don't know how you kept your cool man 👍 God bless you & America.
Really good video, I learned a lot. However, I would recommend that you use one made from chrome vanadium as opposed to high-carbon steel, as it is a much harder material.
All tips are excellent gentlemen!!! I’ve yet heard about using W D-40, penetrating catalyst or the alike oils to help further in extraction. Oil may blemish the wood a bit but in my experience, it did help.😀
0:21 - 0:25. The "drilling end" of that De Walt extractor is a right-hand (normal) drill. It is manufactured to turn in a clockwise direction. If rotated in the other direction (anti-clockwise) the cutting edges will soon be blunted - especially trying to drill into that hard steel from which the screws are made. It would be better if it was sharpened as a left-hand drill. Then the whole procedure would require ONLY anti-clockwise rotation; so the "drilling" part of the operation will also tend to unscrew the fastener. Whereas when the drill rotates clockwise, it tends to screw the fastener further in, thus making it more difficult to extract
Used them many times. First, stop wibbling the drill side. You have to drill straight in. Two, drill in reverse. Drilling in forward will destroy tye drill bit. Third, when extracting, keep the bit straight. Di not ream the hole out. Good video, but your not using them correctly. Also when extracting use low speed and high pressure.
Keeping the drill perpendicular is essential and also slow the speed of the drill, that is the most common mistake, people think that faster is better, but it just generates too much heat and blunts the drill bit.
This guy is painful to watch. You don't wiggle around your drill when drilling it and you have to put downward pressure on the bit when extracting. Go slow with drilling and extraction and keep the drill straight , not on a angle. I have a different brand of these bits and have worked about 90% of the time. Always drill in reverse (you can tell by the flutes on the drill side).
" I have a different brand of these bits and have worked about 90% of the time." Which brand did you use?
I wonder if the Dap liquid grip would help in extracting the screw.
I used a different brand (grabit pro). I bought them many years ago maybe more than 15 years and used it to extract a stripped screw. I used a variable screwdriver. Recently I used it again (short screw) and was successful.
I am replacing a electric outlet and the drill extractor stripped the screw even more what can I do now? Thank you.
See? When you go straight on, they work like a charm 👍
Very useful. Helped me. Thank you sir
yea, that was a reverse drill. Also, woggling the drill around like that produced a beveled edge hole, which is not what you want. On that second one, you say you are in reverse, but you are not, and that's why it is not working. And again, like I commented on the last video, power drill is ok, but power extract is not. You need to gauge the force with that highly tuned torque and pressure meter god built into your arm. I'll give you a story from working on aircraft. The FAA rules allow owners to help the mechanics to work on their aircraft. They allow you to use power screwdrivers to EXTRACT screws but not put them in. Why? You get no feel at all with the power tool, and stripped screws are the result. They do use power screwdrivers in industry, but they are always torque limited devices with the torque setting on them.
One potential issue I see is when you are drilling you are wobbling and not drilling straight. Upon wobbling you are making in the hole wider and will cause the extraction tool to not grab properly?
1. Many screws that come with materials to attach to walls or ceilings have VERY cheap screws so they are easily broken/stripped. If using long screws to attach to studs/rafters for maximum holding power, buy higher quality screws/bolts.(not chinesium junk). Worth the extra money when moving. Will mostly eliminate the problem of stripped screws usually. 2. When removing, drill hole deeper than depth of screw extractor. 3. Slowly, maybe by hand to start, remove screw.
For not giving up and taking another video with a more objective test, I express respect to you. And for lying about the distribution of maviks, shame on you
If managed to take out a little bit the screw, u can try using drill to clamp onto the head and take it out. Worked for me.
Ok... I'm removing my wood patio deck because I'm having extensive basement foundation work done and it's in the way. I'd say about 25% of the screws stripped trying to remove them. Rusted painted over phillips head screws on a 25-30 year old deck. Ran to the hardware store bought a Craftsman branded extractor. The drill side lasted for one screw...the extractor sode worked for two screws... Guess I'll run to the big box store and see if they got a cobalt steel quality brand stuff... Probably have at least a couple dozen screws to remove... Good Times.
If you can get a thin enough Tap, with a leaf Han thread and a left hand thread to fit it you should be able to get it out. I once broke a drill bit (quite thick) but continued to use what was left of it and it cut into the screw and jammed so I put my drill into reverse and out came the screw. It’s all about getting a purchase on the screw which the head has the cross in it for. Of. course if it stands proud you can saw a slot into it and use a slotted driver but that’s not what these bits are for. (If and when they work)
2 things: 1) prob the extractors are meant dir SINGLE use. 2) The metal screw was still HOT when you attempted to extract. Let it cool down first.
I have the speed out. It is not fool proof, and most of the time following instructions exactly, I can’t get the screw all the way out.
I would guess somebody from Dewalt reached out and told to reconsider.
A lot of this is such nonsense by people who simply don’t understand the engineering principles involved here! First of all, most screws are hard or case hardened, making any drilling, etc difficult! A straight in approach to max depth, without the wandering off-axis action is essential! As sensible others have said...the hole for the extractor needs to match the profile of the hole you create first! Then, if you’re lucky and the metal the screw is made of isn’t too hard,...push the extractor in hard as you rotate anti-clockwise direction very slowly to get a bite and not on any hammer type action at all! The reason you’re doing this in the first place is because whoever put the screws in, didn’t push hard enough on the drivers body handle,and/or they used the wrong drive bit! Philips is rubbish compared to Pozidrive and bits don’t work in each other’s dims, etc! Best to use Torx or similar if you’re cak-handed! Stainless steel screws are very soft and chew-up easily! Good luck, Cheers
"... Philips is rubbish compared to Pozidrive ..." Philips is rubbish, period!! I don't understand why people still use Philips screws if alternatives (Robertson or Torx) are available. But of course that's a whole other discussion.
Hi what is the spec of the drill?
To be fair to TGE, I purchased a cheap extraction set and the bits disintegrated on impact with the screw, i tested the metal by lightly squeezing with pliers and left a sizable dent in the bit. Unfortunately you have to spend the money and they aint cheap at all. I am better off just buying a new RC car than trying multiple sets in the hope they might work.
You were Not applying enough pressure and Not at 90° , and the swirling drill speed is too fast to make a bigger crater
You are supposed to use the drill for extraction. Not going to work as well with impact drivers
What were the original screws...stainless steel?
Great test Tank you. I tried doing this the other day, but failed every time. I was not using DeValt.
НЕ надо делать вращательных движений , стирая грани ямки,, за которую он должен цепляться! Сверло надо держать строго вертикально. Отверстие должно получиться меньше чем нарезка в экстракторе. NO need to make rotational movements, erasing the edges of the pit, which he must cling to! The drill must be kept strictly vertical. The hole should be smaller than the cut in the extractor.
The General "Expert' doesn't understand how to position himself relative to work or how to use power tools. Note 5:34 he's bending over the work with his forearm angled and not holding the power tool aligned with the holes he's trying to drill.
You have to use slow speed and even pressure. Your first video you were using crazy high speed. Not a good review.
I learn never use electric screw drivers or impact screw drivers for the first time. Many times, damaging the crew due to incompatibility. Do it manually first to ensure the driver exactly fits to groove to prevent slipping occurrence.
To me it seems like the deeper you go the better to get more grab
Never had much luck with these either, screws seem too hard for the drillbit end and then when reversed to the extractor end extractor snapped
Add WD-40 prior to drilling. Let sit for a few minutes so it can seep in.
Great presenter, thanks!
Those drills are too fast. You have to use the slowest speed/highest torque with a lot of pressure on any drill bit type extractor. If that's your slowest setting, then it's the wrong drill type. Normally you would hammer the extractor into the drilled pilot hole and remove them by hand with a socket wrench but these are skipping that step. The same goes for nut and bolt extractors. You hammer the extractor socket of the rounded nut and then remove it with a wrench.
"Average home owner" Yep, the average def do not read the instructions on the packaging haha. not wrong there.
Looks like you were so determined to get the DeWalt to work that you stayed up all night.. LOL
Try holding your drills straight and not on an angle and use a bit extension in tight locations
Just stretch a rubber band over the screw, throw your phillips in an impact, push hard into it and send it. The rubber band will add the grip as long as you're pushing hard. And use an impact not a drill.
Nah that's far lower percentage, worth a try to start.
I love how you fail to mention you used the tool incorrectly in the first video. Which is why it broke. Using a tool improperly has nothing to do with not following simple instructions on the packaging.
How come no one else is commenting on this? The test is done wrong. The screws are not stripped at all. You should have used a grinder to cut off the tip of the screw.
At the beginning your voice sounded familiar. Then you showed your face 😆
You have used driller instead of impact at the first video. In my opinion that's way it didn't work.
You have to drill to the shoulder for it to have a chance to work correctly
Ive never had them work under any circumstances
I've never had a robinson screw strip. I've used Irwin extractors with success but they only come in large sizes. These type of 1/4 inch extractors I was never able to use. might be better to stick weld something to the stripped screw and use something else to undo. If the screw is a stripped stainless steel good luck. If the metal the screw is made out of is soft phillips is the worst type of screw to have.
"I'm not a scientist, I'm only human." Hmm... Many scientists think they're superhuman. As we've learned over the past few years.
Double sided extractors are no good. Use reverse drill bit then extractor that are separate.
Low speed and high torque is what the drills need to be set at.
You didn’t mention that you didn’t used an impact driver on your first vid
Okay, calls himself the General Expert.. yet doesn't use his tools as they're meant to be used.. in the medium screws it takes him how long to start using both ends of the tool?!
Video title should be "How to absolutely suck at handling a drill, while not following instructions, and exhibiting zero common sense."
Works great on screws that are stuck in wood. Not so easy or great when the screw is in metal or tight spots..
The drilling end is ALSO supposed to be used in reverse. Schoolboy mistake. You compromised the hole and rounded the extractor because it was going in a wrong size hole and it burned up and rounded over.
With respect , you are articulating and rotating the drill too much and making the hole oblong. Keep the drill upright and straight and you will have better success.
Use a drill bit then use a square bit and hammer it in with duct tape piece inside drilled hold and with the square bit remove with gun or driver
Just ran across this video... one observation... the lubricant you put on the screw to drill it out is probably the reason why the extractor wouldn't get the friction it needed to bite in. Just a thought.
You're using WAY to fast of a speed, lol I've used these on many stripped bolts in the past with success.
yer going against what the pkg said, not to use impact but drill motor only. So you used impact all the way and stripped out the bits.
Drill Hog bits and screw extractor. Lifetime warranty on both. You can thank me later.
Obvious difference in energy used for the Dewalt vs the SpeedOut.
Those TORX were NOT stripped. You could easy, though gently, get those out with a torx bit. You really should switch to torx, or square, they are FAR superior fasteners than philips
You start by drilling the wrong way. cant you see the sharp edge?
I've never had any success with these. A thick rubber band with the right sized cross head will work though!
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Dewalt must have seen the big fail in the first video and reached out to sponsor the 2nd one lol
Everybody with a stripped screw is thinking “I’m fucked”
Going alil too fast no? Where’s the part where you tried different solutions to take out the other stripped screws?
Though some of your videos can be really helpful, this one is truly painful to watch. Looks like everyone else has stated the reasons. I guess that's why the "for entertainment" disclaimer is there. Keep putting out the cool videos...and check the comments. - Peace ✌
Try super glue with baking powder, 1-2-3…..
More details, please. Thanks.
How's that work ?
WD40 is a solvent, not a lubricant.
I'm not here to argue with your statement but that has been a very controversial subject. WD-40 actually has mineral lubricants in it and the compounds that aid in penetration also have lubricating properties. So it can be used as a lubricant. I believe it even states this on the can. BUT, with that said, I would not purchase WD-40 alone as a lubricant, there are much better products to do that job. But If it's all you have, go for it. Hope that doesn't start an argument! 😉
I wout not leth you knock a nail in my wall!🤨😊
You did not have your drill on drill mode that’s why it wasn’t drilling.
If you can’t tell which way the cutting end of the bit is cut you shouldn’t be testing tools.
😂😂