Project 750Li Part 3: Engine Repair and Reassembly
In part 3 of Project 750Li, we take the fully disassembled N63 block from part 2 and repair all of the broken components. Timing chain replacement, valve stem seals, valve lapping, retiming the engine and much more!
Thank you to everyone for your support! If you enjoyed the video, drop us a Like!
00:00 - Timing Chain Removal
00:40 - Camshaft Sprocket Replacement
02:11 - Cleaning Engine Block
02:30 - Turbo Oil Return Housing Replacement
03:10 - Rear Main Seal + Coolant Cover Replacement
04:46 - Tension Oil Pump Chain
06:03 - Install New Timing Chains
07:00 - Install Front Timing Cover
07:28 - Install Upper Oil Pan
08:06 - Install Oil Pickup
08:21 - Install Lower Oil Pan
09:04 - Cylinder Head Disassembly
11:31 - Carbon Cleaning Valves
12:27 - Lapping Valves
14:23 - Installing Valve Stem Seals
15:24 - Reassemble Cylinder Head
18:04 - Clean Head + Block Surface
18:52 - Installing Cylinder Head
20:43 - Engine Timing
24:55 - Installing VANOS Solenoids
26:10 - Oil Separator Replacement
27:40 - Reinstall Valve Cover
28:32 - Install New Spark Plugs
28:58 - Refurb Injectors
30:36 - Reinstall Fuel Injectors
31:11 - Reinstall Vacuum Pump
Legit been one of the most mechanically detailed series I've seen in a while. Beautiful work and great cinematography
I am so into this,, I need to see you put it back together and running it.. Amazing job done!!
It will, make no mistake.
Thanks!
work of art (both video and engine)
awesome job, thx
I appreciate the Torque Specs. I didn't see specs for Valve Covers, only tightening order.
0:11 fun fact. You can replace that guide without taking the engine apart. It’s 2 piece, and you can pop the part the chain slides on off. I know because I’ve broken it doing a head-gasket with the engine in the car.
Wonderful work !!! Well done !!!
Glorious. Cheers
Awesome bud.
Excellent job, BRAVO!
Watching it now! Been waiting for this so long!!!!!
Отличная работа 👍 Ждём продолжение 🙌🏼
I needed this lol. In the middle of rebuilding mine too.
I like to use oven cleaner to remove carbon build up in the cylinder head and the combustion chamber. It is super easy, just spray it on, wait a minute a brush it off. I used it to clean the intake ports on my own car, it is somewhere on my own channel (Episode 6 and 7). Anyway, great video, In like the editing and the audio. Very satisfying to watch without music and voice overs.
Thank you so much for this video you have earned my sub
Hey, absolutely fantastic videos!! They helped tremendously when rebuilding the motor in my 2011 550i. I thought I would check and see if you happen to have a list of the torque values for every part? Thanks again, this has been the best rebuild series I have ever seen!!
yea finnaly ! another great video😄😄
looking forward to see it running. love that 7 series. I can buy it but I can't sustain it 😅
Muy grande por hacer el vidio me has facilitado mucho la vida con esta máquina 🙌
Hey i was wondering how do ik when the cams are in the right sync with the crank?
Love your videos. Very detailed. Hard to find videos on the N63. Looking forward to part 4. Any idea when that will come? 😁
Thanks! I am working on putting the engine back in the car now so Part 4 will be coming towards the end of the month
Интересно смотреть. Нет музыки, только звук инструмента. Хорошо бы ещё детали блока было на пескоструй свозить. Чтобы было как новое.
How did you install the front crankshaft seal? I saw you installed it before putting on the timing cover but the all data procedure I found says to install it with the timing cover on the motor
👍👍👍👍👍👍😍😍
Great work, and nice filming and editing. I have a wish, if you will share the list of parts/supplera you use. I need to do the same you as prepecation before finishing the 150i N63 engine swap build😉
Thank you! I have subscribed to your channel for the 150i build. Looks very interesting. For the parts, I will publish a list in the last episode once I know everything I had to purchase.
@@bimmer.doctor did you get my email? For some reason my comments are not posting.
Hi,can I remove the timing cover with the AC compressor attach?or do I need to remove the AC compressor because I having a hard time removing the timing cover.
Okay I have maxed the rocker arms 😢 so what I can do???
loving the series thus far, would you recommend changing the piston rings and bearings?
Thanks! I checked these rod bearings off camera and they had very minimal wear so I opted to skip them. I would say check first and if needed then go for it, because doing them would add significant cost
Hi sir, I have an ActiveHybrid 7 with same engine… now I am on installing process of new timing chain… how do I know on camshaft axle where is the marks..I only now that the intake it in action and the exhaust is free… can you help me with a advice ? Thanks
Brother I need help with the torque specs for the whole crankshaft
Very interesting, cudos to you for taking on such a job. I was taught to leave the plugs out until oil pressure was proven to save the load on the starter and wear on the crank achieving it. I see you didn't do this and many other utubers doing similar jobs don't either. Just wondering why? Thanks for posting.
The reason is that I’ve never heard of doing it! In the BMW service manual it just states to pull the fuel pump fuse and crank it a certain number of times. I guess maybe it isn’t 100% required but it still sounds like a good practice to follow. I’ll definitely try it in part 5 when we start up the car. Thanks for the great tip!
@@bimmer.doctor I like to do this before the valve cover goes on to see the oil coming from the cam bearings/rockers etc. probably not always possible I guess.
Yeah on this car, even a simple valve cover job requires the removal of the engine.
@@bimmer.doctor This guy does exactly what I do, just in his case it's a m/c engine. Check out at 18 minutes. Also check out his other stuff, fantastic engineer. kzhead.info/sun/g6yIhamgg4xjgHk/bejne.html
@@bimmer.doctor how much do you charge to do this for me
Are those the ELRING valve guide seals? They look like those for sure. If you picked those great job! Those are the ones I hear have the longest life and best quality
Yes they are! I use only BMW or OE manufacturer parts
@@bimmer.doctor awesome man! Honest to god if I needed work I’d pay you to do it. I see that you are piecing and parting the original block back together. Did you consider a $3900 complete longblock replacement? Also, very cool how you did the coolant plate as well. That is a very too often forgotten mess of a failure that’s often overlooked. As I’m sure you are aware, they make 2 different options to choose from from genuine bmw. The $60 regular replacement cover, and then the $600 thick heavy billet aluminum one. It looks to me like you did the original $60 cover. That one will be great for another 100,000 problem free miles. Can’t wait for part 4!
3900$ for a long block?! Where can you get one of those?
@@bimmer.doctor sir I am the absolute n63 parts king of the USA. I will send you the link directly.
@@bimmer.doctor it also includes brand new genuine bmw spark plugs and a new oil return block as well
Great Job! But I would clean the ports much better before installing the valves @14:03
Thanks. I did end up cleaning them but off camera as it was long and tedious to do. I wanted to add a caption explaining that but seems like I forgot.
I'm assuming that you cleaned the carbon build up inside the intake ports (since you showed the cleanup of the intake valves). Just curious how you went about it. Or did I miss it in there somewhere? Fantastic video series by the way!
Thank you! Yes, I did finish cleaning them but it was off camera because it took so long to do. I wanted to add a caption explaining that but seems like I forgot. I just scraped the big carbon out with a screwdriver and then cleaned the ports with a plastic brush and brake cleaner. The result was not perfect but definitely a lot nicer than you see in that clip. Unfortunately the only way to get it 100% is to have it professionally cleaned at a machine shop.
Detailed work. I just have a question...didn't the cylinder heads need a resurface?
Generally you don't need to unless there is warpage which in this case, there was not. The head was in good shape. Even BMW TIS states the head can be reused without resurfacing so long as it is within spec. It wouldn't hurt to have it resurfaced just for perfection, but then I would have had to bring it to a machine shop and pay them for that.
@@bimmer.doctor you can not see warpage by your eyes , i think always there is need for resurfacing , it can cause problems in future , i hope not for you ,anyway nice job well done sir
What are the torque values on the valve cover bolts x17
Hi there, I must have forgot to include those. Torque spec is 10Nm.
Hi bimmer doctor, Quality information laid out in such an excellent manner. I want to compile all those torque specs in a document to make it alot easier for me while coupling my engine. I guess that would fall under “fair use” in terms of copyright but still want to ask for your consent if thats okay because i know you put your time and effort into this.
Thanks! You can absolutely use any of the information in the video, it all comes from the service manual. I’m just happy to have these videos up to help others who want to learn. Good luck with the project, let us know how it goes
Great video, do these engines need the bearings replaced, or only with high mileage?
There have been cases of N63s with rod bearing damage, but the bearings in this engine were all in great shape since it only has 82,000km (I verified off camera). Obviously there are lots of other issues in this case but not the rod bearings. It would be good to replace them since the engine is already fully disassembled, but the price of new BMW rod and main bearings would have been over 1,000$ which I could not justify since these were all in great shape still.
@@bimmer.doctor thank you for your reply, I do not know how many km on my n63 it's been sitting since 2016 and the battery is totally dead. Hopefully I'm lucky and it's low like yours.
@@bimmer.doctor Thanks for the reply. I was just wondering why the bearings weren’t addressed when the engine was anyway so far disassembled. Fantastic video, very interesting to watch. Looking forward to next episode already.
I'm wondering if you considered replacing the valve guides. I've seen another video which demonstrated extreme side play in worn guides, which then is predicted to prematurely wear out the new stem seals. Feedback?
Hi, thanks for the comment! Yes, I have seen that on N63s but this particular one was still good. The valve seals were cooked just due to the general heat of the engine and not due to excessive play. It’s not really something I would do “preventatively” because it would add significant cost to have the head sent to a machine shop, for an issue that’s not present.
Where do you buy your parts at?
Hello. Why you didn't check the connecting rod and main bearings and why you didn't change the piston rings?
I did verify the bearings but off camera. They were all in good shape and a set of new BMW rod, main bearings and bolts was going to be 1000$, so I did not change them.
Does S63 engine uses the same torque and the same way to build it ?
There's a lot of similarities between the two, but there are key differences with the pistons and crankshafts. So it depends what components you are talking about but it's best to check all values for the S63 specifically just to be sure.
Have you ever encountered the 107001 code? (Throttle valve sucktion too high? This was the reason I pulled my n63 out to rebuild after throwing endless parts at it. My intake valves were so bad, it wouldn’t seat in the head right due to carbon. Could that be the cause? Thanks!
I haven’t encountered it personally but from what I’ve read, the code is set if the flow through the throttle is 65% (or more) than the flow rate through the cylinders. What’s parts have you replaced? I would verify MAP sensor, smoke test for a vacuum leak or maybe a faulty component in the PCV system.
@@bimmer.doctor replaced all ccv lines and map sensors. Upon ripping into the the engine, the intake valves wouldn’t seal properly and the oil separators wasn’t making a clicking noise when you shake it. I ended up also buying an entire intake manifold for bank 2 with new gaskets. I’m hoping it works out🙏🏾.
@@billyowusu48 Good luck my friend. Keep us posted on how it goes.
How much in parts did you have into it?
If you check out the latest video, Part 8, I discuss how much I spent and also have a full list of parts in the description of that video if you are interested
the cylinder head ducts are clogged and you haven't cleaned them?
I meant to add a caption on the video saying I cleaned it off camera. I did not record because it took much longer than I expected it to
What camera are you using?
Any guesses before I tell you?
@@bimmer.doctor Your phone prob, no?
Lol exactly. I have it in a tripod and then just use one of my work lights to illuminate.
@@bimmer.doctor What phone you rocking?
@@nesmio7378 definitely an iPhone :)
Followed the timing process but now the car won’t start unfortunately. Motor just spins on my end 😢. Don’t know what I did wrong.
Sorry to hear that! I would start by doing a compression test. If you have good compression on all cylinders that will determine that your timing is correct and you can move onto checking fuel or spark.
Any luck figuring out what's wrong?
@@bimmer.doctor I guess the machined part of the cams was facing downwards on the driver side. I’m now having throttle potentiometer codes I can’t figure out after resetting adaptations. My pedal barely works.
How much for this job?
It depends how much work you’re doing. The problem is, once you start taking things apart, you always find other problems that you need to replace at the same time. At the end of the project I will post a breakdown of how much everything cost but it is not cheap!
@@bimmer.doctor how much did he end up paying?
You blued the teeth on the sprocket. I assume that part is heat treated, and if so you've burned the temper off on the surface of those teeth.
What will this cause?
@@bimmer.doctor softening of at least the surface of the steel. This could lead to increased wear rate of the teeth, or possibly cause cracking.
Interesting. I did not know! Thanks for the info.
@@bimmer.doctor I wouldn't worry too much, the chances of that causing enough premature wear to make the chain jump is very low. But when heating heat treated parts in future be sure to distribute heat evenly and avoid causing any colour changes. If the steel goes blue/purple the heat treat is completely ruined.
I understand that gears can be preheated in oil (in a pan on a stove burner) to allow the desired expansion but also retain the temper. Can anyone confirm?
Hey can i send you my car need something done and rod bearings
Hi there, you can email me info@bimmerdoctor.com
Nice job, but why you didn`t clean the heads ports after all?
You forgot the rtv when doing valve cover gaskets
No RTV required on this model according to service manual.
show n62 please!!!!