What is Your Style ? The Jacket Shoulder
2018 ж. 15 Қаз.
97 784 Рет қаралды
In this new episode of Sartorial Talks, Sonya Glyn explores the fascinating world of jacket shoulders and explains why choosing the right style can make all the difference.
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Music by NOWË ( / nowemusic )
As someone who has worked in clothing this could not have been said more eloquently. Excellent job as usual 👍👍
This is an encouraging reply and is really appreciated, Gaby. Many thanks, ~Sonya
The most adorable explanation of suit construction I've ever heard.
Ah, that's really kind, thanks. ~Sonya
Excellent thesis on shoulder style and construction by a superb satorialist!
Many thanks Ray James! Best regards, Hugo
I can't wait until this channel is uploading once a week, or even more. Thank you for always delivering quality and inspiring me to become a better man. I hope to meet you both in Toronto one day!
These kind of words mean everything to me. Thank you!! ~Sonya
To MagGray forgive me for correcting you but any man can try to be a better man but in this case you're inspired to be a better gentleman.
Helen Gomez Being a better gentleman is only part of what makes up being a better man to me. Being a gentleman has to do more with the people around you, than it does your self in my humble opinion. Making people feel involved, comfortable and accepted in a social situation to name a few examples. Being a man encompasses all of that but also includes your inner self. Your personal goals, your aspirations and becoming a better person today than you were yesterday. Seeing Hugo's and Sonya's passion not only encourages me to be a better gentleman, it encourages me to be the man I want to be, regardless of what other people think. Thanks for your reply as its allowed me the opportunity to philosophize on a subject that is dear to me. -Michael
Thank you, Michael, I stand corrected..and at the same time I congratulate you for such a deep and most beautiful inspiring philosophy. I had to read it a few times as it was most heart felt and poetically written. I hope other men think and feel that encouragement as you. All the best, Helen.
MagGray aye you from tdot fam. Lol shoutout the mandems
I own a white tie tailcoat from 1927, made on Savile row, and the shoulders are absolutely stunning. No padding whatsoever, just canvas running up and over the shoulder. The shoulders are also very slim, they don't extend past the shoulder bone, which means the deltoid muscle creates a subtle curve in the sleeve. Topping it off is a very nice, gathered roping which really accentuates the end points of the shoulder, thereby visually widening it. Somehow it's just a very special look, unpadded, slim, yet very masculine looking. Also, I'd have added that the English, and basically any proper bespoke tailor, will cut a smaller armhole on the body than the sleeve and subsequently shrink the excess fabric away with an iron. The Italians often don't bother with the shrinking and stretching of fabric in various places, seeming to prefer achieving a similar result just by the cutting itself.
Hello Hank and thanks for the description of the " white tie tailcoat-shoulder " crafted on the Row, and particularly for your final point about the advantage of cutting a smaller armscye--plus the note of the English vs. the Italians on whether 'to iron or not to iron' the shoulder area to shrink excess fabric away. Please continue ! ~Sonya
Great job Sonya--as always. I can't wait for each Sartorial Talk by you and/or Hugo. Your presentations are always so informative, delivered in a terrific way, with excellent information. Keep up the great work!
It means so much to read this; thank you William. ~Sonya
Always looking forward to your videos, thank you very much.
You're welcome and thanks for commenting. ~Sonya
Thank you for your informative sartorial talk concerning the deconstruction and construction shoulder. I really never knew there was a difference in the shoulders of a suit as it was brought out by your presentation. Thank you so much for being so concise with your explanations and the pictures helped quite a bit. I now know something more about buying a suit and look forward as to what style shoulder would be best for me.
Great video. Well spoken, clear and valuable. Thank you.
I appreciate how eloquent your presentation is, your speaking voice is wonderful. You fully explained the subject without overly simplifying anything, yet without making it intimidating to a neophyte like myself, thank you.
Your voice is wonderful. I wish I sounded like you
Another extremely informative episode! The sartorial subtleties to determine tailoring styles is amazing--thank you!
I appreciate your detailed response and am really glad you liked the talk! ~Sonya
Great information and so beautiful transmitted. Thanks a lot for your great work
Great video!!!..... I always learn so much from you guys.
Thank you Waylan. I really appreciate the feedback, and great name btw. ~Sonya
Wonderful explanation! And I have to say that that the shoulders of the jacket you wear are amongst the most nicely crafted I have seen on a woman's jacket, especially how it made use of the pattern's layout. In my eyes they really hit the soft spot between structure and natural form.
Thanks for that description. Very enlightening
Excellent video! You explain the subject carefully and you make it easy to understand. I can almost picture in my head the insides of the suit shoulder and its construction. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge!
I really enjoyed reading your comment. Thanks for taking the time to let me know your impressions. ~Sonya
Thank you Sonya.
Really great presentation. Best description of pagoda shoulder I have heard. Thank you and make these talks more often, please.
Your analysis is really encouraging. Thanks for taking the time and we are investing more to produce more, with time and experience. Cheers, ~Sonya
I found this channel yesterday and I must say the videos are beautiful and it teaches me so much about clothing and the nuances that go into it. I used to just think they're all the same but i'm starting to see things in a different light. Thank you Sonya for this episode, and thank you Hugo for your knowledgeable videos on the channel.
This is a really special and meaningful comment, Levi, and we both appreciate your words more than you can know. ~Sonya & Hugo
I agree ... Hugo & Sonya always deliver on great advice. Changed the way I think
Thank you DC, I'm so glad we made some sort of difference. ~Sonya
These technical insights are very enlightening. Before discovering this channel I knew none of this, just that I liked some suits but not others without really knowing why
Just wonderful.... loaded with precious details......
Thank you so much for commenting. ~Sonya
Most welcome ma'am
Thank you for another great video, Sonya!
It's my pleasure when I have such great support---thanks for leaving the comment! ~Sonya
These videos are just phenomenal. The explanations are SO clear and concise, and not rushed. It makes it so easy to learn and remember it. It's great to see someone with blue eyes or blue/gray-green eyes, reflect those colors in their jacket as you did here Sonya. I love that look!!
Thank you Anthony, on all counts---to know the information is clear and interesting is exactly what we've been hoping for in producing these talks. I appreciate your message very much. Cheers! ~Sonya
Your voice and your way of talking is just so soothing, so relaxing. Awesome to listen when I'm in a lots of stress. In my language, there is a phrase for such a voice. The phrase literally translates as "velvet voice."
I adore this term "velvet voice"...thank you for sharing with me. And if I can help with stress, this makes me feel grateful. Cheers! ~Sonya
Thank you very much for the education I always enjoy suitorail talks
I love how wonderfully you both explain and clarify these nuanced ideas for someone like myself who loves the looks and fashion, but is not educated to why different things give the impression they do.
Thanks for your reply ANM, it helps to read such a thought out perspective! ~Sonya
Thank you so much Sonya and Hugo for passing on more of knowledge, and therefore helping us all increase our wealth of understanding, kind regards your friend Ryan,
It's so kind of you to take the time to write your thoughts---return thanks for your encouragement. ~Sonya
@@sonyaglyn7035 you are both are doing a sterling job , many thanks Ryan.
Thank you again for these influential videos
You're welcome and thanks for writing Feliciano. ~Sonya
Great video as always! I love the cadence that you speak with
Thank you so much. "Cadence" is one of my favorite words. ~Sonya
Got my first wool navy blue suit, well fitting in the shoulder. Can't wait to wear it for my first interview!
Great! I'm sure wearing a good suit will play a part in "putting you at ease" during your interview. Cheers! ~Sonya
Great video Sonya!
Hi and thank you Bob. Cheers! ~Sonya
What a joy it was to watch this video. I learned a tremendous amount of information regarding the "constructed and de-constructed" shoulder all to discover I prefer the French shoulder then the British or English shoulder. As a gentlemen that is somewhat portly, I understand why I prefer this type of construction. They bring attention to my shoulders and chest and not my gut, thereby providing balance to my frame. Bravo! Great video.
Thanks for your comment Kevin, and you translated the information exactly as I had hoped it would come across. French style is sublime! Cheers! ~Sonya
I've just started purchasing Bespoke suits and I find your videos most helpful. This video especially, thank you. I was unaware of different shoulder styles. What I find interesting is one styles opinion or interpretation of another. Currently, I live in Korea and its facinitating getting different tailor's opinions. Thank you again for what you do.
Reading your message makes us feel like the ST project is worthwhile---and there are many interesting sartorial progressions being made in Korea, from what we understand. Feel free to send an image of the suit on my Instagram @sonyaglyn if you like. We'd be interested in seeing your progress at this early stage of the sartorial path! Thank you, ~Sonya & Hugo
I find myself liking each video before I even watch. I already know it’s 10/10
Thank you so much for all your incredible insight and advice. La Cigarette shoulder is my pick. Already looking forward to your next video. Thank you from Brisbane, Australia
Hi Aaron, and thank you so much for taking time to comment and for watching. Return greetings from Bourgogne, France. ~Sonya
Thank you for always spreading your wonderful knowledge......PEACE
You are very welcome Kenneth. Sonya
First - thank you Sonya, another masterpiece brought by the two of you (that is Hugo and yourself) What I adore about this channel is the deep dive you are giving making me aware for all these 'small' details that normally goes unnoticed, but after learning about it - it no longer seems like a 'small' deal but rather a huge difference in the overall appearance it creates. Looking forward to the next post, Thanks Sonya, take care. Amir
Thank you Amir, as I really appreciate this sort of feedback. Since you are becoming advanced in knowing the details, my one regret is that I have not done an episode on the importance of the small armscye to allow for easy freedom of movement in your suit. This is the first subject I intend to address during the Season 3 shoot, but wanted to mention it to you know for further study. Cheers! ~Sonya
Holy smoke! Incredible video...nice examples! Thank you!!!!
Thank you so much Rene! ~Sonya
Another great episode, you look amazing! 👍
Hi Hassan and thank you so much! ~Sonya
Informative and entertaining. Concise and comprehensive. The best way to present. Kudos Sonya
Thank you, Enoch ! ~Sonya
All the suits and sport coats I have are all either minimum padding or no padding. I always ask for la spalla camicia, because I don't like the feel of the padding and because I do a lot of weight training and so I already have well build shoulders. Plus I really like the look when done well, and a V taper does help
Fascinating video which explains in simple terms something which is often confusing. Thank you Sonya. The problem I find with deconstructed shoulders is that you need a really good tailor to make the jacket fit properly. It is much harder to find a ready to wear jacket with unpadded shoulders that will suit waist as well as shoulders, and in England where I live many bespoke tailors are so used to padding shoulders they don’t do a good job of deconstructed versions. I had to get rid of two bespoke deconstructed jackets where my wife and mother pointed out that they looked as if they were coming off my body!
I empathize with your story more than you know, as we've seen some real disasters with some of the shoulders of our own crafted items (even crafted in Napoli, so I can only imagine when crafted in England). In Italy, another issue is that when some sartoria become very successful, they hire young "just trained" apprentices (often from the very good company of Kiton or Brioni) to do the work; and, while your first two jackets may have been wonderful, the third one can look like it came from another crafter---which in essence it did in a way, since a new hire could have done a lot of the tailoring work. ~Sonya
You’ve so educated me Sonya, thank you great vid!!!!!!!!!
Thank you so much for saying so!! Cheers! ~Sonya
As someone with overbearing shoulders this is the info I've been looking for!
Hi Sonya, nice to see you again after long time! as usual great video , and great outfit ,, i loved your jacket ,so elegant , love from Cairo,
Nice to hear from you again and thanks from the heart Nader! ~Sonya
I was just thinking about such a topic! Keep up the good work.
Hey, thanks Alex and nice to be on the same wave length! ~Sonya
Indeed my favorite channel keep up the great work
So good to know and thank you for saying so and for the encouragement. ~Sonya
Finally...it took a woman's eye and perspective to talk about THE most important aspect of a jacket. I always go to the jacket construction and fit first in determining a purchase. Thanks Sonya!
It seems like a suit is built around the shoulder... great as usual and it makes me feel like suites is what is missing in my life.. you really deliver it ..thanks again from Bologna..and the suit you wear looks so natural..
Thank you for your impressions David and I hope you get a few suits that you feel great wearing. Your encouraging words indeed, encourage me. ~Sonya
...and also hello to the city of Bologna---home to Enzo Bonafe shoes and Marol 1959 shirts! ~S
@@sonyaglyn7035 indeed , actually I noticed I have always been more into the spalla camicia type of .. but not the napolitan...
Beautiful English, so easy to understand
This is a kind comment. Thank you, ~Sonya
I was taught (many years ago) - and I still know very little about fashion - that any "sheerings" on the shoulder was a clear evidence that a suit is poorly made. And structured shoulder was a 90's thing... I learned a lot for my life on this video!
We are so glad to read this Shiran! Cheers, Hugo
Fascinating. Learnt a lot. Thanks
Thank you so much! ~Sonya
That was awesome. Thank you.
Thank you for watching Keith. Cheers! ~Sonya
Sonya and Hugo are amazing
Wow Umer, thank you !! ~Sonya
Great information... thank you.
Well I have watched a lot of channels covering the same topic but surely your channel is way more elegant, keep up the good work.
Thank you so much Ali...a wonderful comment. ~Sonya
grahcias sartorial,very informative as usual,great advice.
Thank you so much for saying so. Cheers! ~Sonya
Another excellent and informative video. I have always had an interest in looking good but without great information, it’s a hit or miss situation much of the time. Get it right and you stride out with confidence. Get it even slightly wrong and your confidence diminishes somehow. I look forward to stepping out in style with a skip in my step. Thank you!
SARTORIAL TALKS il y a 1 seconde Hi Nick and thank you for revealing your thought process (and for the encouragement). I believe you can reach a point where you feel you are on a sartorial journey instead of arriving at a sartorial destination. In this case, mistakes don't really matter because they are our "teachers" and the needed to refine a personal style. So please don't worry and have more fun. Cheers to you !! Sonya
thank you Sonya for your clear explanation, greetings from Buenos Aires
I appreciate your comment Miguel and greetings from Bourgogne! ~Sonya
Good job Sonya! You gave a really great explanation. Thank you. Sincerely, Gary Gay Naples, FL
Thank you for a lovely response, Gary. Cheers! ~Sonya
Great video...recently went to my local store to by a suit...i was explaining to the the tailor that i wanted to remove the shoulder pads and he kept telling me i shouldn't do that. Finally i decided buy the jacket and find another tailor who understands my request and why. Bulky shoulders do not need extra padding...I'm 260 with a 36" waist. No much extra is needed.
Yes Adrian. So glad you found an alteration tailor who understood you (actually I think the first one was probably too lazy to remove the pads...). Best regards, Hugo
Thank you very much for inspiration you radiate. Thank you
Such a lovely comment that brightens my day. Thank you so much! ~Sonya
Love this channel
Thank you, WH ! ~Sonya
More content, more frequently, please. Good stuff.
Hi AL, we use a professional crew to film and edit and so it takes some money and time and coordination. We'd like to install a recording studio, which would be more efficient to create more. We also attempt to answer as many comments as possible, which is a time/educational investment (taking away from production time)---hope that explains why there are not more episodes yet! Thank you for staying tuned. Cheers! ~Sonya
Really insightful video!
Hello DCW, Thank you for saying so. ~Sonya
Sonya and Hugo, this is why your videos are enjoyed at least four times: One time for the content and the philosophy. Once for the pleasant presentation. The third time pour ton charme! And the fourth time just to repeat the experience. Merci!
One of the kindest replies ever. Thank you from the heart. ~Sonya and Hugo
What an absolute beautiful jacket you are wearing and of course your shirt. Watch those shoulder lines going into the sleeve.
Hi and thank you so much for the kind message. I’m pretty sure if the armscye is cut small, which I prefer, then when one follows the etiquette of unbuttoning the jacket upon sitting, the gathering of suit fabric around the shoulder on an unstructured piece is a natural phenomenon--but I’m going to do a test with some of my other suits and see how it goes. Give it a try too if you have soft tailored jackets and write back and let me know your results, if you find the time. Cheers and thanks again, Sonya
I recently visited Pini Parma in Paris and he showed me the Neapolitan shoulder. Is this similar?
Yes, the jacket I'm wearing is bespoke from Sartoria Dalcuore in Napoli.That said, you would do well to order from Pini Parma...instead of SuitSupply and Boggi, in my view. The quality to price ratio of PP is incredible and they craft in Italy- If you decide to buy, please tell owner Thomas we said hello and to give you great service! ~S
Excellent !!! Now I know what type shoulder is my style. Thanks
Great--which style do you prefer? Thanks, ~Sonya
I think I prefer the French shoulder with a classic American box style body, as opposed to a fitted close to the body style. My body type is triangle to rectangular in shape I’am American and a strong supporter of our 2nd Amendment so I carry a “friend” with me under my jacket. The box style makes it more discrete and easier to conceal. I believe the structured prominent shoulder off sets the to big for me look of the American style. Would you agree? Thank you and Hugo for sharing your knowledge
It’s a lecture in the style of a bed-time story. It’s very impressive. M.
She is amazing!!
Thanks so much Christopher ! Cheers! ~Sonya
Awesome video! I am italian (from the north) but I really love the english shoulder and construction. It gives me such a strong appereance that has no rivals in my opinion. Despite it still being vert constructed even nowadays, I feel like it could have been even more in the past: I have a vintage chalk stripe suit from the seventies which was made in Saville Row and the shoulder is super heavily padded, I just love that! It was so intresting to explore the other styles anyway, this was very educational. I had no idea that you were american Sonya, I should have recognized it from the accent, I love y'all so much. Keep up the great work!
It's great that you adore the English style; after all, the origin of the suit as we know it today is derived from London, and I agree the such a style renders a strength of appearance. I think your point is well made in terms of even the English going towards better materials with time, reducing the amount of structure bit-by-bit to make a more ergonomically friendly suit, but I have no documentation to support this opinion. I'm wondering if the English style complements your body style in terms of giving your shoulders a stronger appearance? Or if the English style is just a personal preference? You nailed the Southern y'all and thank you for you insightful comment. ~Sonya
@@sonyaglyn7035 Yes, absolutely; that's why I would go always go british for any kind of formal or semi formal attire. I think we -as a sociey- have already broken all the rules so even dressing up with a very structured suit that gives a strong appearance without being too flashy or flamboyant makes you stand out in the best way possible. That is why I love the british style also for casual-sportive attire such as tweed sport coats and hacking jackets: the drape cut combined with a still very constructed shoulder gives the look a superbe beauty, even if maybe a bit austere. I don't have any documentation about the suit or my point either, but it was made bespoke it might have been just a personal preference! Referring to your wonder I would say that it is probably both: being just 17 and having just a slight V-shape it really helps to make me look more bulky and muscolar, but at the same time, as I have previously said, I love the features of this specific stile combined with a classic cut: slim fit isn't for me and even if I might look older it is not something I would compromise. Oh I have been happily dating a wonderful kentuckian girl so I am rather used to it now ahah! You and Hugo are one of the most beautiful couples I have ever seen so it makes me so glad to see Europe and America together. Thanks for your great comment and intrest! Jacopo
Hi and thank you so much Jacopo, and say hello to Ms. Kentucky for me. What a great story! You are already sartorially advanced at such an early age, so I'm sure you are intuitive about how you dress. I encourage you to keep going, and eventually you may be writing columns such as these, even if only as a hobby. Cheers! ~Sonya
@@sonyaglyn7035 Hi Sonya, it means so much to me. I will say her hello and I will definitely keep going. it's thanks to channel like yours and the Gentleman Gazette that it's much easier for us young peole to know more about this wonderful world. Keep up the great work!
Outstanding content
Thank you, Billy. ~Sonya
I got tons of knowledge from you and Hugo , thank you
Late getting back, but thank you Hadid ! ~Sonya
Very informative. Thanks!
Thank you, Christopher. ~Sonya
Thank you Sonya. One of, if not the most important topic when it comes to cut of the suit. A structured shoulder tends to do a lot of good with formal colours. Would you or Hugo please make a video addressing the waist area of the jacket? Many made to measure suits these days seem to have widened the waist area making it look larger rather than slimming it down. Whereas decades ago suits more commonly built up the shoulders and slimmed down the waist
I appreciate your comment Koussay. When we film season 3, I would like to make a note to discuss specifically the waist area and the armscye (which I feel we should have discussed already at this point). Thank you, Sonya
Thank you and God bless you!
Nice to receive your message and God bless you too, Eric! ~Sonya
Spallacamiccia ... as Italian I adore her use of Italian words.
I am greatly relieved to read your words, hee. Grazie! ~Sonya
Thank you for this informative talks I love suits and my thoughts are every kind of suit for me is ok though mostly I'd go for the Italian and French look.
Thanks Brian! Best regards, Hugo
Very good video.
Merci pour avoir regardé, Guillaume. Cheers! ~Sonya
Expertly explained.
I love this woman and the way she talks 😍
Thank you so much Michael for such a positive message! Cheers! ~Sonya
Great video LOL I have always had to have my suits tailored, because I have no choice. LOL 6'1" 215lbs with almost 24" shoulder width I've always needed my suits altered. From my experience men always get a suit tailored for it is the only way to go, so the suit fits you like a glove and looks great. Just one man's opinion. P.S. Men it doesn't cost as much as you think. America's Hollywood has blown the price out of proportion. Trust me a tailored suit you won't regret it from a great tailor.
Soft shoulder for me, but I think deconstructed is really suiting me.
A very informative video. Thank you Sonia! I have both an English style and an American style suit but I would like to give myself a treat and splurge on an Italian "spalla camicia" suit [yes, I cheated and went to Google for the spelling :-) ].
Wonderful that you've decided to try the Neapolitan suit with the soft shoulder (I still have to check spelling of Italian words:). I hope you have the chance to drop a future message to let us know your impression after you try the suit. Cheers! ~Sonya
Amazing how I never knew the "basics" of the shoulder after all these years!
Hahaha don't worry my friend, the tailoring world is large and complex (and that's why we love it : we learn something new everyday). Cheers, Hugo
Love ya work
THANKS SONYA
Love the vids xden
Excellent video. I am always a deconstructed shoulder guy. I never like that role around the shoulder in fact had spats with many tailors who bespoke my shoulders as constructed and refused to take the suits as t was my MJOR demand before the stitched. Somehow they don't get it.
Another informative and always entertaining vid. Still unsure exactly where the dividing lines are between French and English. Seems very subtle, part from the bone/white French example. That tweed sport coat at 8:20 is to die for!
Muchas gracias por su información. I have got a question: Has shoulder construction any impact on comfort? Is there a type providing more freedom of movement? Thanks
Appreciated!!
Thank you for another great presentation, appreciated. Great point about balance. Right now on this sartorial journey, exploring the shoulder options. Now I know as one with 5 inch/13cm a very structured shoulder now know can mean disproportionate mass?
I'm not sure I understand your question, but I do appreciate your point about proportion. If you like wearing a structured shoulder and your body looks proportional (i.e., when you look in the mirror the upper half of you body does not overpower the lower half of your body), then that construction should work for you. Let me know if this is not what you were asking. ~S
Hi Sonya, thank you very much for this video, I admire your work. Right now I'm ready to buy my first bespoke suit and I personally love the English style with constructed shoulders, but I do a lot of exercise and I have big arms and shoulders and I'm worried if I should choose instead an Italian style with deconstructed shoulder. Thank you again!
If you are this athletic with broad shoulders and you enjoy high activity, indeed a Southern Italian (Napoli) style may be a dream for you, but if you love the English style how it looks, especially for evening wear, for example, then you should go with your intuition. ~Sonya
It sounds to me like you want to open a gym, not get dressed. You should follow this channels advice and buy off the rack to discover your own preferred style.
I like the Cifonelli crested shoulder. It's very elegant. Unstructured and crested shoulder for me!
I tend to agree that . there is nothing like a Cifonelli shoulder! ~Sonya
Awesome
She is so cool. I love her
Thank youuuuu, AR. I smile! ~Sonya
Thank you for the great guide. I've always been told that I should wear structured shoulders because I don't have big shoulders and it's more flattering but I like the Neapolitan jackets way more. Do you think that anyone can wear the unstructured jackets?
If you love Neapolitan Jackets, then by all means wear them! Pay special attention to the line from your neck to the tip of your shoulder--I would make sure there is a tiny bit of structure in the shoulder line to keep the shoulder line straight (not crumpled up) and in place---even if there is just one piece of canvas on top of the shoulder (between the neck and the tip of the shoulder). This is an easy solution to wear the Neapolitan Jacket well. ~Sonya
have always loved Italian style and i also have a v-shape build but i have one question on the lapels of deconstructed shoulders, do they have padding in them or just inner and outer fabrics ?
This is actually an erudite question. Most bespoke lapels have loose canvas sandwiched inside; however, some famous (very famous) houses fuse only the back side of the lapel for a “smoothing effect”. Cheers! ~Sonya