Extension Build 2024 | The Times They Are A-Changin'
Special thanks to Surrey Bespoke Construction
www.surreybespoke.co.uk
Tel: 01737 448101
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Extension Build 2024 | The Times They Are A-Changin'
In 2024, the United Kingdom saw significant changes in its building regulations, marking a pivotal shift towards more sustainable, energy-efficient construction practices. These changes come as part of the government's broader initiative to tackle climate change and reduce the country's carbon footprint, which aligns with the UK's commitment to achieving net-zero carbon emissions by 2050.
The amendments to the building regulations affect various aspects of construction and renovation, from residential to commercial projects, aiming to enhance energy efficiency, improve safety standards, and foster innovation in building design.
Enhanced Energy Efficiency Standards
One of the most notable changes in the 2024 building regulations is the introduction of stricter energy efficiency standards. The government has significantly raised the bar for the minimum energy performance of new buildings, requiring them to be nearly zero-energy buildings (NZEBs). This means that new constructions must utilize renewable energy sources to a large extent, significantly reducing reliance on fossil fuels. For existing buildings undergoing major renovations, the regulations mandate improvements that substantially increase their energy efficiency, aligning them more closely with the standards set for new buildings.
Focus on Sustainable Materials and Construction Methods
The revised regulations also strongly emphasise the use of sustainable materials and construction methods. Builders and developers are encouraged to employ less environmentally-impact materials, such as recycled or sustainably sourced products. The new guidelines also favour construction methods that minimize waste and reduce carbon emissions. This shift not only aids in reducing the construction industry's carbon footprint but also promotes circular economy principles within the sector.
Improved Safety Measures
In the wake of various high-profile building safety incidents, the 2024 amendments have introduced more rigorous safety standards, particularly in relation to fire safety and structural integrity. The regulations now include more stringent fire detection and suppression systems requirements in both new and existing buildings. There is also a greater emphasis on buildings' structural resilience to withstand natural disasters, reflecting a proactive approach to ensuring the safety and well-being of occupants.
Innovation in Building Design
The latest revisions to the building regulations encourage innovation in building design, especially in integrating smart technologies. Smart energy systems, which allow for more efficient management of energy consumption, are now becoming a standard feature in new buildings. Additionally, there is a push for designs that enhance natural light and ventilation, further contributing to energy efficiency and creating healthier, more comfortable indoor environments.
Implementation and Compliance
The government has introduced more rigorous inspection and certification processes to ensure compliance with the updated regulations. Building projects must now undergo more comprehensive assessments at various stages of construction, ensuring that they meet the new standards. Non-compliance can result in significant penalties, underscoring the government's commitment to enforcing these changes.
The 2024 changes to the UK's building regulations represent a significant step forward in the country's journey towards sustainability and environmental responsibility. By setting higher standards for energy efficiency, promoting the use of sustainable materials, improving safety measures, and encouraging innovation, these amendments aim to transform the construction industry. As the UK continues to face the challenges of climate change, these regulatory updates underscore the critical role of the built environment in achieving a more sustainable future.
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#extensions #building #construction
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Get the feeling they really didn't want Roger there 😂
@@user-tx6ii9pm4dThey’re using a breathable type of insulation so the air gap isn’t really necessary.
Very clean and tidy workers for the challenging conditions we have had lately, that site looks a bit tight on access too.
Watching craftsmen in full flow is a beautiful thing. My father was a time served brick layer and later a general builder, though went into engineering I still appreciate the skill he had!
Came here to see what the internet experts were slagging off, best they could do is tracksuits - must be a good build
Yeah but the guy who drilled the holes for the three pipes should be sacked.
@@zorot3876 He did the brickwork under the padstone too 😁
@@user-tx6ii9pm4dwhen using that type of insulation how would you keep an air gap and prevent it from touching the outer skin?
@@zorot3876Agreed that was the only red flag I spotted, 🙄
@@olivergoodwin1348Personally I would be using Kingspan.
We built 125mm cavity with 75mm pir and 50mm clear cavity up until this year. New regulations are now 90mm pir with 50mm clear cavity. Never liked rock wool don’t like the idea of soaking wet rock wool in my cavity’s. It’s obviously a lot easier to fit than pir but pir is far superior and less chance of damp issues in the future. A cavity should be a cavity especially on brickwork imo.
Only trouble with larger cavities is either you get a smaller internal area or you'll have to build out more to get the same inside space as previously.
That's tasty work, the scaffolding is a masterpiece especially with the roof on top of it. The only red flag i spotted was the plumbing, the joists should be drilled in the center along the neutral axis. Holes to be kept as small as possible with an allowance for expansion.
I’m curious what makes it good scaffolding please
@@Wgnwtb The roof on it, you'd never see that in Ireland. Paddy's too tight to pay for it! 🙄
@@TheToolnut lol thank you)
Pipes should have gone in before the Caberdeck was glued down. Plumbers would have been cursing. Builders probably thought Hep2o was going in.
@@nectafarious8842 You'd still have been able to drill through the centre of the joists from below.
Full fill cavities are the next ticking timebomb in construction. Give it 15 years all the insulation will be wet and rotten. It's been proven that wind driven rain gets through your brickwork whatever you do. Cavities are there for a reason! I build with blockwork-insulation-50mm cavity-brickwork. Yeah you lose 2 inches but the building will last 100 years
exactly
I worked on a bungalow construction that was 9in blocks laid flat with kingspan rendered with epoxy. The block work became one big heat store and extremely cheap to heat
Great video Roger, looking good 👍
2:14 Does the cavity have to be 150, or it just has to be that unless you use the more expensive 90 type? Your room could be 12cm bigger if you use the more expensive insulation?
Is quiet floors to joists now not required?
Existing cavity wall needs a vertical cut where the new wall meets it. Try doing that once youve built the new extension. Could be enforced by building control. Brickwork otherwise looks tidy.
Not required. The cut can weaken the corner
Cut is only in the outer skin for installation of vertical dpc. Ideally insulated if you want to avoid cold bridging. The structural skin is unaffected if an engineer requests it you can always install remedial wall ties for stiffness before you make the cut.
No cutting into the existing wall to continue the cavity or vertical damp ..?..
It is not always required. It is better to keep the strength in the corner
Surely that would create a bridge?
Don’t think much of plumber and sparks on this job. Those holes through joists at the end all in the wrong places. Cables also out of safe zone where they dive round the steel. Wouldn’t have them working in my place!
I was thinking the same thing about the holes in the joists
Yep those pipes where shocking bad.
It makes sense that they want bigger cavity’s considering most older houses are having thick insulation blocks glued on to the outer brick work
And then having damp problems because wall can't breathe
Great to see skilled English craftsmen doing a decent job.
Good informative KZhead video as usual RB. With regards to thermal cavity wall insulation, I’ve never favoured AIRCRETE bl’wk being used to improve thermal values, as the inner cavity wall leaf is really for load bearing requirements from floor & roof loads & certain beams/lintels etc. Therefore, a dense aggregate block will tend to perform better structurally than AIRCRETE block & with all the inherent fixing issues to AIRCRETE. As for the insulation full fill within the cavity with face brickwork outer leaf, a waterproof insulant rather than a water resistant/repellent additive material should be a consideration, the cost difference shouldn't be that much higher. Also over time, a mineral wool type product could slump within the cavity compared with a rigid T+G board. A basic thermal calc will identify the cavity width required & what type of insulation board to achieve the current elemental U-value, this being 0.18W/m²K for outer walls. The example below achieves this with dense bl'wk & a 10mm residual cavity using this type of quality insulation, i.e. 125mm o/a cavity. Water ingress from driving rain could bridge a full fill insulated cavity with certain brick types, even small imperfections, so any residual cavity will assist, I guess everyone has their preferred methods :-) Rsi 1 15 0.180 0.083 Gyproc Wallboard 12.5mm+skim 2 15 R-value 0.170 Drylining - plaster dab cavity 3 100 1.080 0.093 MasterDenz (agg1960) Internal 4 10 R-value 0.290 Cavity unventilated low-E (0.2) 5 115 R-value 5.200 Recticel Eurowall+ 6 103 0.840 0.123 Brick outer leaf Rse 0.040 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- U-value (rounded) 0.18 W/m²K -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Nice . That Tin hat was a massive help 🧱👍🏽🌧️🌧️💦
I’m after a porch built in Merseyside, any chance of a quote?
Nice edit and post.
Are those wall ties long enough for a 150 cavity ?
Im using 125 and 150 xtratherm pir cavity fill with the plastic front... and if its pumped walls they want 200mm cavity... in Ireland we don't really use the rockwool version for cavities
Nice video!
All you need is 100 mm cavity 60 mm insulation and 40mm air flow result is your never get damp or mould, period..
yea, but buiding regs are over the top
U should do an eps on SIPS… there a new build art deco style house built out of SIPS with curved walls and everything, would never know its SIPS. Look amazing!!
S.I.P`s is one of the ways to go for mass market construction.
@@martin2466 what's s.i.p? Ive never heard of it
Chasing out the cavity in the existing wall is new regs to stop thermal bridging. Had this discussion with my BCO.
150mm drytherm cavity insulation. Amzing difference. Builders were complaining "insulation doesn't make any difference anyway". I said to them, when its cold do you wear a coat?.....silence.
Use 90mm pir board and keep the 100mm cavity.
Are those wall ties long enough?
Masters at work.....we love these videos, Roger.
Qq..my neighbours ground is 350mm higher than mine. The external wall cavity tray will still need to be 150mm above it. Should insulation go beneath the cavity tray too…?
In the future, houses will be made entirely from insulation
SIP is the future... Or present 😂
@@Crogookah Certainly one way to go. And S.I.P`s is good. I have done "Passive-Haus" and "Huf -House" triple glazed windows, air-tight structure with MHVRS Now that is the way to go.............
My woodwork teacher told us that the adhesive was stronger than the actual timber members being joined together. I can still remember the look he gave me when I asked "Why don't we make furniture out of adhesive then?". With heating bills at current levels I'm beginning to think I'll have to move into a new spec home and leave our 150 year old stonebuilt cottage behind. There's a limit to how much roof insulation, double glazing etc. can do when there are 2ft thick walls soaking up interior heating.
They’re called bricks 😂
@@johndavenport7281 I built the house we currently live in. The walls are a insulated/composite timber system with brick rain screen cladding. Triple glazed windows on west/North and East elevations. High levels of insulation to sub floor/ loft and intermediate floors. almost fully sealed with an internal ventilation and recovery system. U - values achieved easily far exceed current required standards and E.P.C =A* rated. It is the only way to go.....
2:25 150 cavity for the wool insulation if you use PIR still under 100
3:55
I had to do my own calcs to convince BC I could use 100mm PIR on a garage conversion. What a menace.
I went through this recently where our architect/engineer had given specs according to old building regs. Since we had already built the walls up to damp level, I also had to switch to the special PIR tongue & groove insulation boards which probably doubled the cost on insulation. However, (based on calculations) it overachieved the required level. The bricklayers (from Moldova) did an awesome job even though it wasn't an easy job.
@@jonp6798 If you live in a weather-sheltered area, filling 100mm with normal PIR is probably accepted. I live in a sheltered area as well. But I thought of sticking to 10-20mm air gap between the PIR and the external wall while using 90mm tongue and groove PIR boards (even though they are freaking expensive) to stay out of trouble from building control. They say that rain penetration can happen across joints unless they are tongue & groove style boards. Not sure if it has been proven or utter BS for selling something at a higher price.
I put 10 mm pea shingle around my crates on a soakaway also 100 mm under the crates
How would you deal with the stepped out brick courses if at a later date you wanted to add External Wall Insulation ?
You just cut the insulation around the corbel. It is done all the time
Celotex Thermaclass 21 is a full fill rigid insulation that meets current u-values and is 100 mm thick installed in a 100 mm cavity
New, thick insulation and still metal rod as thermal bridges. Someone has to start thinking.
Why do you bring up the brick leaf first? I have only ever seen the inner leaf leading?
you can do either but most of the time you should bring them up together
Love to see good skilled builders especially brickies. In my day, most would cheat and lay the bricks with 'frogs' down. Nice work.
wall insulation regs are overkill for extensions
Nice to see building regs insisting on a lot of insulation. The only trouble is that in 50 years time the insulation will have shrunk and not be so effective, will these extensions have to be filled with foam?
Some of the wall ties seemed a bit short
Tidy squad
06:48 Is that a bit wonky or do I need a new visual cortex?
It's the angle of the dangle...
I'm always surprised that many trades are unaware of the rules regarding drilling and notching joists. The ones for the copper pipes caught my eye. Keep your holes for services in the middle of the joist and keep the hole size to a minimum. If you are drilling or cutting into any structural element as part of your work you need to be aware of the implications of what you are doing and what is acceptable... especially if its a task you are doing on a daily basis. Sometimes people wonder why floors of old properties are bouncy and when you lift the floor boards and see how many holes and notches have been added to the joist over the years, both top and bottom, then you realise the joist has lost almost a 3rd of its structural depth.
That is all in the existing buildimg. You won't thread copper through the middle of the joists.
@@SkillBuilder Sorry, but 8:22 is definitely _not_ in the existing building, and there are three copper pipes with _huge_ holes through every joist. Those holes look to break several of the LABC/NHBC guidance. (Not on joist center-line, holes not spaced 3x diameter center-to-center, holes too close to supporting wall -
@@stephen-boddy You've just BUSED skillbuilder
Why are they not installing dry-fix ridge and hip tiles?
If the existing building has bedded ridges or hips you don't have to dry fix. They build to the drawing and all of it is passed by Building Control
I thought the tile ridges needed to be the dry modern method?
Not on a traditional roof where you are matching existing.
@@SkillBuilder Understood - good to know for the future 👍
nice
They look and sound like good guys. Most of these recent insulation rules are going way over the top.
Disagree. British housing stock is old and antiquated. New builds need to be better insulated. My house has been renovated to part L regs. So, 150mm drythem cavity.in the walls.etc.... Barely needs heating and keeps a far more constant temperature, so comfortable.
The people making the rules haven't got to pay for the materials
bigger cavities = smaller internal areas
Warmer though. Cheaper on the bills.
You can't afford to lose an extra 2inc can ya pal? 🍆
Not many cares, as long as houses are shown on the market with a description of how many bedrooms, instead of square meters, like the rest of the world.
Is this correct? The new extension bricks not lining up with the original house would kill my OCD! (7.10)
It’s about levels ark
I was speaking to a builder the other day whos doing a extension and he said the 150 is only for new build he did cavitys in wool 100mm. has anybody actually read the exact wording of the regs. and does it depend on your area im in north yorkshire
My architects said it applies to extensions too and drew my plans with 150mm cavity, as said 100mm doing it with special PIR is prohibitively expensive…. However my builder said we can still do 100mm with PIR for extra £600. I would say thats reasonable and worth paying to save 3 x 50mm internal wall space, also means dont have to pay more for longer brick ties, wider lintels, cavity closers etc… from what ive heard getting 50mm longer brick ties cost 100% more than regular.
Pay for a home energy survey, £280 and keep your 100mm cavities.
You can trade off by beefing up the existing to bring you up to a decent standard but the builders build what is on the drawing. The horse trading is between the architect and Building Control.
That scaffolding roof must have cost a fortune 🤷♂️. Nice for the lads working though
Those holes through the joists for copper pipes are miles away from the centreline!
Just waiting for a plasterboard screw to go through one of them, very naughty!
The plumber was left alone. The joists had to be doubled up to overcome it. Also metal plates protecting the pipes
@@SkillBuilder you mean the “plumber” was left alone. 😀
Looks as though it’s got an over hang on the corner 4 courses up that can’t be intentional can it as it does overhang along all the course unless it’s the camera angle
150 cavity? must be nice for people with a side space issue. Getting Crazy!
@@user-tx6ii9pm4d I think the insulation regulation depth is unreasonable on an extension build myself personally. These Net Zero loons are going to destroy this country with their bs.
I bought a new build with London Brick about forty years ago built with the "frog" (dimple in the brick) placed down. I noticed bricklayers in this SB vid placed the bricks frog up. That's the correct way I think as the other way caused serious problems. Face of the bricks blown out by frost particularly below DPC. They did it this way because its quicker as less mortar is needed. Funny though, the last course they laid before they went home were always frog up! lol Dave
Upon taking off the render on our outhouse due to failure and spalled bricks I too discovered that the bricks had been laid upside down with massive air pockets in the frogs. To make matters worse they had mixed a far too strong cement mortar and render so that it was no wonder the bricks were spalling. The only time I have decided to lay bricks frog down (with filled frogs) was on the top course of a dwarf wall in a greenhouse so that the frame could be laid and sealed to an even surface. I've repointed and re-rendered with lime to improve water transmission and built a toolshed extension on the worst west facing gable to protect the outhouse. If I'd discovered similar on my house then it would need major replacement, not everything was better in the "good old days".
@@johndavenport7281 Interesting John
I’m putting in 90mm is the 150 material substantially better ?
No the 90mm PUR board is the same as the 150mm mineral wool. The trouble with pur is sealing the gaps. The mineral wool is faster
Shouldn’t there be 4 inch kinkspan inbetween the joist before caberfloor goes down?
that is the upstairs. The insulation in that void is Rockwool for sound and fire. It is put in from below.
Genius bricklayers. Unfortunately couldn't get an apprenticeship so ended up in cybersecurity. Ah well....
I'm a data analyst who is DIY fully renovating my home. Funny how IT guys go back to the hard labour haha
@@GoldenAdhesive Haha, same here. Devops Engineer that's fully renovating my future home. I guess we just love a project.
Tell us all of Roger's secrets !
They have a zig zag in the ties so drip both sides. If it is not specified that there must be an air gap and the materials are what are requested by an architect then... Seems alright to me.
@GoldenAdhesive technical architect on cloud and security here who spent the weekend mitre cutting oak skirting now I've finally tiled the floor. I think after all the nonsense and computers we all like to build something practical other people can look at and understand.
I prefer kingspan or celitex because it’s closed cell, I would be interested in your thoughts
Why is it knowing the damp issues I've encountered over the years with full fill cavities albeit injected glass fibre, this goes right against the grain???
To be honest kingspan et all is back too good prices, even so far as when I built my loft out getting on ten years ago, so I think they could go thicker with the regs.
As the brickie said these rules are mad. We like living in freezing cold draughty buildings and spending a fortune on gas and electricity because that’s what we have always done and we are British. 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴
😯 14-inch think walls ... what next 2ft thick walls
That’s what my house has, built about 1780 - cozee
Cotswolds is now natural stone 150 on bed, 150 cavity, 100 inner skin. Try coring through that lot for your extraction ducting...
@@nectafarious8842 nuts
Flip flops are the way to go 😂
Why ain’t they cut a cavity, or even a saw cut in cavity of where new meets old 🤔
Because it is not required. The engineers and architects give the builder a drawing which is passed by Building Control and then the builder builds what is on the drawing. If you start cutting the cavity near a corner you have weakened the structure. If the engineer says to do it then it is their insurance that pays.
The wall ties didn't look long enough to get 50mm into the blockwork.
Don't worry, they're tied to the wool :D
You could well be right.
It's ok, the wool is "rock" wool.
@@rumco Wool is flexible/non-structural, the two leaf's need tying together directly.
😂@@leggy6234
Skills impress me - whether it is brick laying, plastering, embroidary, inlays in cabinet making, art painting etc etc NOT the size of the car you can park on the drive to impress the neighbours.
must cost a fortune for a little extra space. Lots of work
it is quite a bit more space with a new kitchen and cloakroom
There’s no way on this planet those pipes allowed to be cut in to the bottom half of the joist? Surely that’s against building regs?
They should be notched into the top of the joist closer to the bearing point, where the joist is in compression rather than below the neutral axis where the joist is in tension.
You are right Dean, you should never notch the underside or do anything past the centre line. It was the plumber let loose. The joists had to be beefed up with extra ones to get over the issue.
All that extra work covering up because of the weather. But are you making any money building extensions? I stopped building extensions years ago. I just do roofing now,....... when its not raining!! Good luck guys, hard work dose pay.
I have seen 150mm, 200mm and even 300mm cavities on sites recently. What nonsense is this? This cannot be a viable way for house building to proceed into the future, and the large volumetric house builders wont view enormous cavities as economical into the future either - so then what? Next year the "Future homes standard" comes into force along side more tweeking of the Building regulations - so expect more of this stupidity coming to a cavity near you soon..... Does anyone really think Air sourced heat pumps are the future for heating homes at scale.?????? W.T.F
Air source heat pumps are not the answer to the boiler replacement issue for the domestic housing market, at scale..... #heatpumpsareshit.
Am they heck
zzzzzzz what did I just fall asleep to? Not much on this week Roger!
Some weeks are fat and some are thin. It is a hard game bringing in enough stuff to keep you awake but I hope you enjoyed the snooze and woke up refreshed.
Who would be a bricky in this god awful climate !
How you can't get it that the wool insulation you used will soak moisture like sponge and will never dry out. Same as your foamcrete blocks. Unless you manufacturing penicillin from that mould you gonna get.
It has a water repellent face.
Omw- troll city,give it a rest,great builder’s doing a great job while you lot who basically don’t have a clue sit around ordering Uber eats talking nonsense
Silly isn't it? Feels like an odd comment to make. Our houses in this country aren't energy and thermally efficient enough and need to be better whether old or new. Especially if you want to keep your energy bills down.
Dont worry new legislation is on the way. Future homes standard, comes into force next year and thats just the beginning.
It is silly because there are diminishing returns on insulation. The first 100mm is much more effective than the next 100mm. If they allowed you to build closer to the boundary it would help recover some of the lost space.
The background music to this vlog reminds me of my old man's porn (VHS) collection… in black and white 🫣
Then it should have made you very happy with those fond memories.
Call me anti-fascist, but I think the owner and the designer should be the ones deciding on the level of insulation. The owner is the one paying and the bills. What would do without the private companies having a government monopoly, writing the rules for every industry. A wise economist might say this across every industry is why the UK gets poorer every year. What rules can they come up with next year. More expense they don’t have to pay but those working and owning the place have to pay.
Next tear its, "The future homes standard." and that is just the beginning. As soon as the eco - zealots really get going, the Government will be shutting off the gas taps, and forcing us to go all electric. Its mad and will drive the country backwards.
😂 so the next person who moves in gets a cold damp house?
Old men crying about 150mm. 40 years ago crying about double glazing.
❤
My dad moaned about cordless drills 🙄
@@gdfggggg But they are amazing. The time savings must be almost countless.
Not keen on 150mm cavity, so do 100mm with 25mm celotex on the inside block face, dop dab.
You can't dot and dab Celotex
He means insulated plasterboard
Is it a wonder young people don't want to be builders and tradesmen. Just pain. I'm one and unfortunately know.
Young people are soft as butter, no character, mental toughness or back bone.
@@TheToolnut Not all of them......
@@martin2466 Agreed, ninety percent of them are useless.
Not being funny but those blokes don’t need the myther of you filming and stuff .
Very true, nobody needs a film crew. We are going to set up a new channel to bring you hours and hours of nothing.
yet new builds are shocking and getting worse
Volumetric house building is mainly shit - quality.
@@martin2466 make you wonder why they even bother going to collage to learn a trade as once on new builds its out the window, no pride just figures figures ect sad
@@namAlexanderAgreed. Seems it’s one rule for big construction and another for your average builder
One thing I can't stand is tradesmen who show up in trackies, trainers and a hoodie. Especially when it's one guy in a crew. Total lack of professionalism, might as well show up in your PJs
How would you like them to turn up? In a suit maybe
Don’t often see bricks going up before the block work 🤔 not up north anyway
@@royduncancarter1467 i always do bricks first if possible and am up north and been that way for last 30 years
Seriously, what if his workmanship is second to none, do you really care what he's wearing? And do you expect these guys to wear expensive clothes that get destroyed by cement and need thrown out regularly
@@denty32 Silk pyjamas or nothing as far as I'm concerned!
Get a life
I hate that red brick so much. Even new builds look like shit in England.
Lego land
Were is the heat pump ? Or has Rodger seen the light like so many of us. ?
Heat pumps are nonsense spouted by Johncock, when he was prime minister. Expensive shit. #heatpumpfails
@@martin2466 I know, tell Rodger. Obviously you didn’t see the irony in my comment. Perhaps you don’t know the history with HPs and Rodger. 👍✌🏻
@@pigswillbepigs Thanks very much for the explanation - your irony was totally lost on me..... But on a more serious note, I have just taken time to learn all about A.S.H.P`s and what an eye opener it was to. They really are an expensive frippery that this insane Government are trying to force on us. F.F.S 🙄😁👍👍 Thanks again.👍👍
@@pigswillbepigs Thanks for your reply - and I`m afraid the irony went completely over my head. I had a real shock when I looked into heat pumps. Really inefficient and costly.
@@martin2466 👍😂😂 That Rodger was pushing them not long back. He has his loyal sheep, oups I mean followers, alas I’m not one. ✌🏻👍