Most people say not to fill gaps between the boards in your hardwood timber floor due to it cracking and falling out over time.. HOWEVER Berger-Seidle Pak Stop has changed the game!
This is a unique, extreme-performance, high-elastic flexible trowel filler for closing wide joints 💪🏻
First we sand the timber floor back to get her flat and level. We then remove all the old gunk from in between the gaps. A quick vacuum and we are ready to mix up the Pak Stop and Pafuki Powder (various colours available to match your floor). So satisfying trowelling this product on!! After its dry we sand it back again before coating with Berger-Seidle AquaSeal range 👌🏻
And we are DONE! Beautiful!
#floorsanding #timberfloor #hardwoodflooring #hardwoodfloor #hardwoodfloors #floorrestoration #floorrefinisher #floorrestoring #floorrefinishing #tradie #sandpaper #galaxyfloorsander #pinefloors #flooring #gapfiller #bergerseidle #pakstop #woodfiller
That flex stuff is critical. I spent all that time and energy with all of these steps, but they just cracked and came out a few years later from the boards flexing.
Thats the reason they were built with a gap jn between
Perché va posto del materiale che non diventi marmoreo ma resti elastico. Come la coperta di una barca
No need to fill it. I have gaps of about 2mm andit nota problemat all. May be it is even good that dust sand of small stonescan fall inside and disappear.
@@liebuster9308 but what if your child fall into the gap?
@@user-tz8yq3jy8s the child is 2mm in length?
Back in the day, These gaps would be filled with paper mache. I did a floor with gaps of over 1/2 inch around 10 years ago and still looks great - paper mache from newspaper and wallpaper adhesive.
My ceiling boards have big gaps. Wonder how hard it would be to do the paper mache trick on the ceiling?
@@sarawest7075 nah, you should tape up with scrim tape and use a plaster or filler; they're designed to stick, even upside down. Well, that said, I've seen wallpaper put up on ceilings, plain wallpaper and then painted?
I've pulled hemp rope and twine out of gaps while refinishing old floors. They'd hammer it in and put a layer of putty over that. It lasted several decades, at least.
Paper mache or ours were filled with a felt like material. Never came out, allowed for expansion, looked great and was there for over 60 years now. The house is still in the family and is over 150 years old. If you are going to use this stuff though I wonder if it would be beneficial to lay it down prior to sanding and save a step???
I've been doing floors professionally for 10 years. We'd use wood dough and saw dust. Basically, rubber cement for your floor. I've never heard your version. Can't imagine that color matches. Every other gap, I use a water-based filling clay.
Pour jugs with the hole on top so air can enter the empty space. The pour will "glug glug" less and you'll have a faster more controlled pour of any liquid
Doesn't it just pour down to the sub floor which is like a massive container
@@gerigame2995 lol my house is my people container
wtf is this comment
@@G8tr1522good advice about pouring liquid from a container with an offset hole.
@@G8tr1522 they are saying to pour the container out with the container being oriented so that the hole/spout is above the liquid. so in this video all they would have to do is flip the container over and the air will flow in above the liquid when being poured out which will allow both to pass by uninterrupted. another tip for emptying a container with a less viscous liquid, is to tip it upside down and move it around in a circle like a hula hoop does, to create a whirlpool effect which will accomplish the same thing and allow for faster drainage.
i didnt realize there were so many internet flooring experts my boss has been looking for yall
😂😂😂😂😂😂
LMAO
Probably it's because 150million people have jobs and work all the time but you treat youtube like 5 people watch it instead of 5 billion
@@djnone8137it’s a joke
You dont even own a house....lol ppl who got a house know a thing or two about flooring
For everyone talking about finding felt anf twine in there, its called oakum and its still the best way to fill wide gaps. Dont putty over oakum, it will pop the putty up or crack it in humid months
its a flexible filler
Oil. That’s all it needs
I used this cordage I found that would soak in the stain and then stuffed it the gaps and secured it with crown staples. It has held up excellent especially since we have 4 big dogs and a lot of foot traffic. After I stained the floors and polyurethaned them it has really done well during the hot and humid days here in New England.
Wouldn't it be cheaper and quicker to demo the floor and just replace with new hardwood and cleats?
My guy really out here grouting wood flooring
lol
and he's for fr about it.
I think I prefer it with the gaps after sanding and new staining
It can look cool, but at the same time, makes it harder to clean.
Those gaps might attract bugs
I've lived with gaps like that for 4 years and it was a nightmare. No idea how so much dust and dirt can get into them all the time and why it is sooo hard to get it out again 🙄 It's possible. Sure. But it takes away time you could spend actually living...
Then good luck keeping it clean
Ever heard of a vacuum cleaner
I once ripped boards into hundreds of thin wedge, about 5 degrees. Hammered them into the cracks with glue on one side, chisseled them flush. They were really old split floorboards, not tongue and groove. Beeswax finish. Worked beautifully.
Шикарный перевод на русский язык. Даже все технические и ремесленные слова правильно переведены. Вы конечно же хороший мастер своего дела
I was thinking the same thing. Fill the gaps with wood.🤔 Would love to see the results.
@@JHKCFthat wouldn’t allow for movement, bad idea.
Lots of work but great work. You be proud. Old school stuff. Well done
@@mylesjohnston8759 Then how does a regular hardwood floor that’s nailed tight to the next board allow movement?
Very interesting! Thanks for sharing! I'm thinking if I do this I might clean out the gaps first before sanding at all, trowel on the filter, then sand everything at the end and seal. But that's because I'm nervous about removing too much floor depth... I've read that historically they used to reuse old worn out nautical ropes from ships. The ropes had oil in them to make them water resistant and durable. When they were too worn to be used at sea anymore, they would uncoil them and pack the fiber strands into the gaps between floors. This would help prevent drafts while also filling the unsightly spaces between the boards. These are still sold today by a few shops! A bonus is that you can also stain the rope fibers to match your boards.
Yeah, I have wooden floors with gaps like this too, and if I'll fill them in I plan on using rope!
It's called oakum!
Oakum with modern 2 pak polyurethane? or oil? because urethane will not like the oil in the oakum. I would use the cleanest sanding dust mixed with wood glue to make a paste to fill the gaps if the black fill was structurally sound still. if not oakum soaked in epoxy boat resin and finished in epoxy or 2 pack would be good imo. Also dont be afraid about sanding too much just get it to the point that you are happy with the levels (cross hatching sanding patterns help a lot) and go over it with the finer grades of sand paper to get a nice finish. good luck.
@@soarer282I was surprised that the floor sanding wasn't don e45 degrees to the board run.
In the UK in Victorian times "picking oakum" (unwinding rope and separating fibres) was a task done in workhouses. Basic accommodation was provided to the "deserving poor" in exchange for hard, monotonous labour. Oakum was something even children could do!
It’s like your grouting your hardwood floors
That's Pine subfloor. Pine is a softwood.
@@Peterbrendanalbertpine is an intermediate wood.
Look up janka hardness. Pine is pretty soft compared to other species. If you compared softwoods, it's a medium strength softwood. I think with a 900 rating ( Eastern Cedar) is the hardest softwood. Or Google says.
@@placebomandingo2095 Pedantic.
I leave gaps in my 1890 house. I prefer the look.
Mine's the same age, its bloomin cold though.
Maybe harder to clean?
@arh1234 not particularly. I did my own after hiring so-called pros. I did a much better job. I cleaned out all the joints.
I hate it. My flat is old with old gappy floorboards and I want the whole darned thing sorted out soon.
I have the same kind of pine with gaps flooring in my old farmhouse bedrooms. Farmhouse was build in 1915. Downstairs living room, kitchen and dining room all have regular hardwood maple flooring. So the soft wood flooring is a real deal - for all those that claim that pictured in this video is a subfloor.
I’ve been told that it was common for homeowners to have hardwood on the main floor to impress the guests and opt for softwood upstairs to save a little money on flooring cost. As a mover in an old historical town, definitely seems to check out!
@@joshcaldwell4885 - that’s a very reasonable explanation.
@@joshcaldwell4885that is definitely the case in my house (built 1870s). Main floors have oak hardwood and upstairs are wide plank pine floors. Back in the day people used what was available and in this area white eastern pine was really common.
@@bywonline there are many flooring companies that still sell Eastern White Pine as the main floor covering. In fact a place near me in Vermont says "For more than 250 years, eastern white pine has been the flooring of choice in this region. Eastern white pine's humble charm is perfect for a casual home. The species' slow growth results in a tight, smooth, inconspicuous grain pattern with occasional large knots." I've seen others state it is fine for bedrooms, but they advise a harder wood for high traffic areas. I tore up my "subfloor" as you call it, and underneath it there is a subfloor layer and then the joists. You can call it subfloor if that makes you happy, but that was clearly not the intention when they laid, stained and sealed the floor.
How long does the filler stay flexible?
Depends on where u live. Humidity is a mutual effer
A lot have 25 year warranty so Id say thats a decent time frame.
It doesnt
Bullshit
Use filling strips instead made from old floorboards and easily purchased online.
That’s what the people who finished our floorboards did. It looks amazing, but I would have had no objections to using a filler like in this vid. The gaps were pretty large, though. I assumed there was a reason they went for the strips of wood. They did an excellent job. 11 years later, apart from one spot where I left a steam cleaner on accidentally (leaving a white patch I haven’t been able to get rid of), and one short board that had split (I put that down to wear and tear) the boards look as great as they did when new. They have yellowed a bit, but we were told that would happen.
it's what boat builders have done for hundreds of years vs caulking hemp .. but.. if yourun a shallow cut saw along the joints along a straight edge you get peeerfect gap consistency to use consistent strip widths.. AND.. either use a very dark or very light tone wood for contrast effect
These gaps look fairly normal to me (I'm living in a 200 years old house). Even concrete and screed expand and buckle slightly when heating up, which you can see if tiles are laid without giving them expansion joints. They might even crack. Got a tiled floor example of that. So, filling these gaps between the wooden planks will only work it the material is flexible enough. Otherwise, you will have a DIY problem.
Ironically in appearance between the before and after is much the same, a 5mm dark line , so if it was only for the appearance, the exercise fails, the line/gap needs to be inconspicuous, doesn’t it?
I’m pretty sure the purpose is to fill the gap so you don’t get dirt and dust in between the floor boards.
It's so that the gaps can't be filled with crumbs and dirt
Honestly super hot air comes in through those gaps 10 months a year here. If it stopped that it would be a huge win.
I get what you're saying. There wasn't much difference between the old floor filler and the new. Even though it's not much different, he was paid to refinish the floor. If someone refinished your floor and didn't take out the old filler and replace with new then you wouldn't be happy.
I would say the same. It just filled the gap much like grout between tiles. It looks ugly to me there is a black line between each wood plank:-)
That's a Pine sub-floor & that filler will fall out in 6 month's. That subfloor going to expand & contract making that filler dust. Very bad idea!
What would you use instead?
@@par32 Nothing. If the gaps bother you, lay a new floor with tighter gaps.
The new internet trend has been finishing old soft wood sub floors. I can’t figure out fucking why for the life of them, but there’s plenty out there
@@Chris-yy7qcit’s a subfloor. It’s supposed to be a solid surface for flooring to be applied. Something should go over it regardless, you wouldn’t want big gaps in the walls every 6 inches why would you want them in your floor going to the dirt or basement? You wouldn’t. These are dumb people who think it’s a hard wood floor and it’s not
How can u tell its subflooring?
Looks awesome, I just bought a house and have the same problem. Thanks for the tips
Glad we could help! Good luck with your project 👌🏻
Just so you know that’s a soft wood sub floor, it’s not meant to be a floor, it’s not a hard wood, it is wrong to do this. It’s your house do what you want, just sharing. Hopefully others will see
dont do it it will crack once the floor start contracting and expanding
In 6 months max it will explode from the floor bro
In 6 months you’ll still be commenting on KZhead while these guys are making money everyday doing what their customers want them to do.
@@nate6795i do the same job bro i say what its gona been in the future not hate them😃
@@user-ff8jg1iy3h so you’ve done this before and used to same exact material with the same old house in the same area of the country ?
@@nate6795 Did you ever work with wood? Probably not. Wooden floors bend and flex like crazy.
@@nate6795 you are a professional when you give best advice to your customer, not when you only want your customer's money. being a pro is also being honest..., if a gap is here, its because wood works, but you know that already. So the question would be how long will the flex be able to work with the wood together on an old wooden floor ?
Looks good! That was a lot of work. Personally I would have chose a black filler and make it really contrast
I agree! It looks weird and dirty
Agreed. Black, white or any other colour that would contrast sufficiently against the wood
I lived in a really old walk up like 1785 and it had massive planks of soft wood floors that pitched and rolled, they were crack fill with plaster and painted , I loved them
PAINTED??? OK ITS YOUR HOUSE,,, AND I GOT YA BEAT PAL MINE WAS BUILT IN 1752 WEST VA, BEST OF LUCK TO YOU & YOUR OLD HOME😊
In Germany, old plank pine floors...beautiful 100s of years old...
Ok, but the floor *before* was more *beautiful* than the *after* 😂😂😂
Totally agreed. The before reminds me of a floor in my aunt's ~250 year old house.
Totally, unfortunately the customer is always right, they may not have wanted a colored lacquer like what was on the boards originally.
@@Rio_1111Indeed! I live in a 1670s English cottage. I really dislike the look of the gaps being ‘filled in’. It looks rather cheap imo - like laminate flooring. 😳
Yeah, the before floor was gorgeous!
Total agree with you 😂
That nice floor got mutilated
I actually really like the contrast... as long as the gaps are consistent. It'd look bad with that kind of color variation and unequal gaps.
I cried a little watching this. Not because i dont agree with the way it is done, but because i only have ugly laminate in my flat. I put real wood floor boards into part of my workshop (because for shoemakers, the floor is the bin, and we drop lots of nails and pitch crumbs that stick to everything), but i couldnt afford to properly floor the whole workshop with oiled wood. Also i live in a four story building, getting all those heavy machines to the top floor was ugly enough. I am basically nailed down here. Where i was living before i had a big living room and a small workshop all with wooden floors and it was just beautiful. After restoring and oiling it the room smelled so lovely for weeks.
Historically, from the fireplace mantle style and board width I’d guess the house is from the 1860s. Back then that soft white pine floor would have been covered with large area rugs or stitched and stapled carpet strips. That surface was never intended by the original builders to be seen or “finished”. The popular sanded and polyurethaned treatment is a historically inaccurate modern fantasy of how old floors looked.
Ok but to the newbie’s and diy’ers, depth of penetration is the most important thing. Don’t skim it and think it’s going to last.
Awesome, you made a beautiful pine floor look like LVP. Can’t believe someone paid for that.
I prefer the charm and character of the old finish, gaps included
What about the freezing cold air that blows up though them in winter and the massive heat bill!
once the gaps start to fill with random dirt and debris most people can't take it
seems like the shrinkage would require 3 coats. Even minor cracks need 2 coats with traditional filler.
YOU took away the character of the floor I live in West VA in a home Built in 1752 , if you must do this Having 40 years exp as a master mechanic carpenter this should have been done with clear wood glue and ALL the saw dust from the "sand job" and used that , NOW depending if these floor boards are secure walking upon then will have this gap filler moving , cracking & popping out by next month
My thoughts too. In Australia floors in national trust homes were all done with sawdust.
whoa, I had no idea you can do it with such big gaps and it supposedly lasts(?). Looks awesome!
3 months
Did he post a 3, 5, 10, and 15 year photo?
But should you? No. The boards likely have large gaps to account for expansion and contraction in either the boards themselves of the whole house. If this was done in summer, everything will crack in winter when the house contracts, and if this was done in winter, again everything will crack along the weak points in order to expand in the summer
They explicitly used flexible filler...
Flexible filler for the win 💪🏻
The gaps were already filled😂 just poly over it all!😂
This is the pre-work to refinish the floors zzz... They are still going to stain and finish the floors lol
@@niccho8470 I know exactly what there showing. I was talking about all the crud and crap they dug out of the gaps in the first place 🤣
Short answer: absolute necessary if you ever want to have a clean floor and no water damage
It's ok if you don't want to, it looks good like you did it; but that looks like a subfloor. I had similar construction and I went over it with 1/2" plywood and then put new hardwood over it. Plus those floors were beat up to hell and uneven as hell.
A small wood strip might have looked better...
Even if it's subfloor looks great to me. Waste not want not. Why do you need 2 floor coverings if you like the look.
An absolutely beautiful floor. I have never seen that product before.
I think I'd just install some engineered hardwood flooring on top of that subfloor.
Yea the author and most the commenter's don't seem to realize it's subfloor from before composite boards. Has the ugly nails and gaps, they are missing the actual floor.
@@CR-iz1od My floors in my 1900 house look like this. It's not subfloor, it's the actual floor on top of the subfloor. Downstairs is wide Chestnut and upstairs is just pine like this. Cheapest way to do a floor back in the day.
They built it all with green wood from the area. It's had 124 years to dry out and shrink. I still wouldn't use this stuff unless I could test it first, though.
First correct answer 😂 also would have accepted vinyl plank
@@danielmilliken1684just because they used it as a floor doesn’t make it a floor. Soft woods are not floors, they dont hold up to the abuse, that would be asinine.
you should leave the gaps so the hot/cold air and bugs can get inside
What sub flooring used to look like.
This is subfloor, it requires movement to prevent tenting. Cover it with proper flooring material.
My floors in my 1900 house look like this. It's not subfloor, it's the actual floor on top of the subfloor. Downstairs is wide Chestnut and upstairs is just pine like this. Cheapest way to do a floor back in the day.
If the wood moves at all it will eventually pop back out unless you put down like a Glitsa two part clear coat system with double sealer coats and one top coat is your best chance.otherwise I would recommend 6 coats of oil based polyurethane to create basically a plastic top coat to hold it all down ❤
no...wood works!
Damn, what sander is that?
That's good, but for five minutes.
Looks terrible and will look even worse in 2 years.
I like the gapds give a nice natural feeling and look
The multi tool gap cleaner…rather you than me
Швы со временем лопнут и будут трещины
So you can fill gaps but the title was should you
for how long? 2 weeks?
Can this be used on a deck?
C'est moche
Seems like a lot of work to me there are flexible chalks and fillers in mastic tubes sold specifically for that task 🤔way easier less work less sanding and they come in lots of colours to match the wood .
It looked better before, such an unnecessary procedure!
I bet that entire process cost as much as just replacing the flooring with another solid hardwood.
it will never last, the vibrations while walking will cause it to break. he should have used acrylic
Why do people like old subfloor so much
Can the flexiblenfiller take stain?
That's not a wood floor. It's a Deck inside.
It looked better before.
Okay so it looks okay when its just finished. But what about after 6 months or 1 year. With all the due flexing and movement , i have my doubts
nice chemicals to breathe for your family
When does the flooring get installed?
WHY IS THIS SO SATISFYING?!? 🤩
these gaps are important to prevent aitborne dust - much better air if you leave them open
Holz arbeitet und die Fugen werden sich wieder öffnen. Lasst euch nicht beirren!
I need this for my cabin floors 😅
oo cok basarili sonuc.🤳👍
Очень бьютифол...
show it now....
I didn't expect it to turn out as well as it did. Fantastic
Смотрите - американцы шпаклевку придумали!
Looks good but I prefer bees wax
Mix clear epoxy with the sawdust. Resand.
My house is 200 years old and we have wide pine floors, when I refinished them I used wide cordage soaked in the same color stain and after 2 days of soaking I then stuffed it in the gap’s and secured it with crown staples. Then applied the stain and polyurethane and it looks amazing. My wife refuses to change the windows as she loves the old leaded glass so I have begun refinishing them and despite they have zero insulation there is something about the look that can’t be reproduced. Our home maybe old and right now I am sanding and replacing the trim and other things that need attention, I am happy to say that I have zero PVC on my home. Everything is wood or stone and by far better built than some of my customers newer homes. It’s been hard work but it will be worth it when I get done in a few more weeks!
Дыры между досок конечно великолепные, их не соплями надо замазывать а пол перестилать. Сопли вылезут а дыры останутся.
О это то что я кучу лет искала. Чем забить большие дырки в полу. Класс наконец-то кто то дает прямой ответ на вопрос..
I would not have removed the "old gunk" as it is the same as putting this stuff in. Waste of time and money unless it is rotted or something.
NOSSA, FICOU LINDO!!! AMEI. PARABÉNS. ❤
Looked better the way it was
А в России многие думают, что у вас все достаточно богатые и не ремонтируют, а просто меняют на новое.
Awesome! Never seen that before!
Uses a machine to sand the floor; then process to mix the solution with a stick. Classic
Excellent work
Perfect 👌
Wonderful job !!!!!
"Beautiful" like Whoopi Goldberg lol
😂
I honestly didn't like how it turned out.
Хуета на пол года
А запах старого дома остался? гвозди утоплены, доски пробиты гвоздями или укреплены шурупами? 🙊
Это кайф смотреть, как они это делают!
Nada masss??? Y la parte segunda donde queda relinda
👍❤
destroying a perfect floor
Czym uzupełniacie szczeliny
Berger-Seidle Pak Stop 👌🏻
looked better with the gaps😅
Меня мучает один вопрос зачем покупать столько материала и наносить таким способом не экономичным а затем машиной все снять? Не лучше наносить на зазоры и шлифовать меньше?