The Mitre Glueing Trick Carpenters Don't Want You To Know!!!
2023 ж. 31 Там.
102 594 Рет қаралды
This is a technique will transform your understanding of what's possible when glueing thing together!
Products used in the video:
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2p10 CA Glue: amzn.to/45EZGMY
Starbond CA Glue: amzn.to/44EHmlA
Canadian Links:
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The Links above are affiliate, a great way to help support the channel:)
Thanks for watching!
I want to emphasize the importance of wiping off any of the glue that may squeeze out! It does dry rock hard and is difficult to sand off. If it happens to me I will try and cut it off with a chisel or knife. Best bet is to wipe it off and then learn how to put on the proper amount next time:)
On larger houses I set up the saw and after cutting the header/legs I have a dedicated biscuit joiner bolted to my bench. I can then assemble them all in one room and the biscuit helps ensure alignment and gives the joint even more strength. I then walk the the assembled architrave pairs to each room and lay them out ready for fitting. In the Uk we generally set the architrave back 10mm as bearing hinges are very popular. Want thicker super glue? be lazy and never put the top back on the glue bottle. A freshly licked finger wipes the excess glue away every time:)
Why did you cover your glorious hair? 👍🏼👊🏼🦖🍺
You could also use a rag or paper towel with acetone on it. Acetone softens super glue and will make it a lot easier to remove without having to chisel it off
@@robbie6625 but it would damage the painted surface
@@LarryBloom typically, you wouldn't be assembling painted pieces. I always assemble them and then apply whichever finish
Underrated tip here was the wax paper
Oh, man!!! I realized how much I missed your videos!!!! I had gone offline for a bit, and today, over coffee, I decided, “Let’s see what I’ve been missing … “ your video popped up on the queue, and I was instantly Smiling and Happy. Thank you! 😂 ☕️🎥
Thanks buddy, appreciate the kind words🍻🔥
Such a beautiful result! Really love the result you showed briefly in this video and in previous videos, it looks amazing! I will try and remember this for when we remodel next time. Thanks for sharing this tip! ❤
It's been a delight being subbed to your channel.... hope you and the ones you love have had a perfect Summer of 2023
Same to you!
Great tip with the wax paper!
For my first 40 years as a trim carpenter I used a 1/4" reveal on my door and window trim. About 10 years ago I narrowed it up to about 3/16". Easier to eyeball on the install and looks just as nice if not nicer than the 1/4". And for paint grade miters, I use Titebond Premium wood glue and hog ring clamps for a super tight and permanent joint. Preassemble the door pieces or window pieces as a unit, let it set up, then install. Remove the clamps and you've got a great bit of trim.
I'm a professional carpenter too and I agree. 3/16 looks much better than 1/4 inch, our way is correct. I said the same thing in a comment before I saw yours.
Awesome. Thanks for the tips, your explanations really help deliver the techniques.
Thanks buddy🍻
I like this method, I use it too. But you have to appreciate the fact that the finish you got on that mitre had something to do with the decor as well!
Great advice!
Always great content. The wax paper tip alone is worth a thumbs up.
🍻cheers
Yeah. I would have at least one perfectly aligned and evenly joined door trim glued firmly to my workbench if he hadn't told us about the wax paper.
CA Glue + Activator is a great secret weapon to have for all sorts of things in the workshop / home. I love they make the different thinknesses for different jobs. Fastcap make a great started kit with 4 thicknesses (Gel is new - thicker than thick), plus they have a "de-activator" as well as the activator. Good for cleanups. Comes in a nice case too. Just got one for my workshop at school.
Thanks for the info🍻
Nice tip with the wax paper , i usually use Collins clamps also ,
Great application a ca glue. You’re the best! 🇨🇦👍
Thanks buddy, I appreciate all the support 🍻
The cutting is the hardest part in my opinion.
Been using this two part glue for a while now, it's called 'Mitre Mate' here in the UK and as you've demonstrated, a great product, easy to use and super strong.
Should have said England
@@chipperkeithmgb Why, don't they use it in Scotland, Wales and Northen Ireland?
@@sicr7373 not interested in them
Beautiful
I have ALWAYS wanted to make a carpenter cry! Thank you for showing me how! 😂
The carpenters who put the crown on my kitchen cabinets did precisely this. Perfect corners!
Great video ..!! I’ve been using CA for years but still prefer wood glue for casings because it can be sanded. We always hand sand joints, but CA is rock hard and doesn’t sand so you may see the squeeze out or even the wipe in the finish. CA is wonderful product and has many used in carpentry. It makes our job much quicker.
Exactly the reason i don't use CA. Good old wood glue is perfect. Just have to let it set up.
Fair point! I probably should have harped on this a bit more in the video. It’s important to wipe off any squeeze out.
I've found the ca glue works well on mdf. Not so great on real wood
@@TheFunnyCarpenter You said it just strongly enough, I think. Even I caught it, and my IQ is below sea level.
So you want to stretch out a job by several hours? I want to get the stuff cut and installed and then leave!!!
Hey, that was some great tips. We have upcoming trim work ahead of us, so all the help & tips are welcome 👍👍
Best of wishes on the project🍻
Ha!! Wax paper!!! I carried wax paper to put in between the hollow core doors when I was gluing the bottom rails back in. Figured that out after gluing a couple doors together.
Thank you!
I used wood glue and nail my pieces in place, then sand the face of the trim. The wood dust combined with the squeeze out glue while sanding fills any gaps of the miter and you dont need to come back and use wood filler.
Thinking this might work well for cabinet crown. Project coming up where I'll try it. Thanks for the video!
As a cabinet installer I can say 100% this is the way to go with cabinet crown. Most cabinet guys I know use CA glue to build our outside corners on the ground and then install the whole piece as one unit. By far the best results and most efficient method
Definitely the way to go for cabinet crown. Make sure you have a nice flat surface to work for glueing the crown together.
Great videos!!! Not sure if this product exists in Australia.. Love your work shop also, custom made by yourself?
nice thanks
If you need more time to position the pieces, don't use the activator on the other half. Press the two pieces together then spray with the activator. The stuff has a really low viscosity so will easily creep into the joint.
That’s a very interesting idea. Will give it a try
Tx for sharing, super usefull, any chance you do one on a real door, because I don’t see how you clue it first and put it on the door afterwards. Tx!
I do love doing it this way. Why are you being so careful (using the straw, etc) on that second joint with the activator? Been using the Starbond stuff for years and have not seen it damage surfaces. Also, why use the aerosol? Starbond makes a great little refillable pump unit that I much prefer, both for cost and environmental reasons.
I do like yellow glue because it doesn’t dry as hard it’s less likely to crack. Gluing up a bunch of casings tomorrow but have a bunch of Hartford clamps which are awesome if you can find them. I like your method though if you only have a few you can do them quicker not waiting for glue to dry
👍👍👍.Thank you
Good video. I noticed several tubes of partially used caulking in the background on your workbench. I have several also but they usually are not usable after a few weeks as the contents harden in the nozzle as and partially into the main tube. And, yes i use end covers similar to those on your bench. Maybe sometime you could share your secrets for preserving partially used caulking.
Sometimes you can rejab through the hardened material and squeeze it out…sometimes the tube is trash if you leave it long enough.
I have had very good luck if I first squeeze out some product to get the tip clear of anything that ever got exposed to air, and then quickly cover the tip with a double layer of plastic wrap, holding it with a rubber band or even tape. I have had caulk last a loooong time that way. Have tried the caulk covers, as well as the "screw in the tip" type solutions and never found them to work well.
CA glue should be stored in the fridge if you want it to last forever. If you're afraid to drink it first thing in the morning, keep it in the freezer. You'll use it to the very last drop. Thank me later, mate ;-)
i use a nail then seal it with electrical tape. as someone posted, squeeze out what has been exposed to air. it works well.
Clam clamps will make the miter seamless. You will have to fill some small “holes” on the side of the casing though.
Having a jig like a framing square mounted to your table would make it easy to assemble...
door casings would be the last place I would use this method,unless everything was straight,plumb and level otherwise you will not have even reveals
I love this method and use it often. I hate when I glue my finger to the apex of the miter…
The best way especially on timber arks is spray both sides of the cut then glue one piece, that sir holds goes off quicker and never snaps.
Like a boss
How come it still has such a prominent seam? Do you fill that after?
Could I please borrow you in Boston for just a day? Lol!😊
do you have a video on getting the perfect mitre cut for trims?
Might be a good to make, thanks for the suggestion:)
You affiliate linked wax paper 😂 I love it. I'll use that for sure! Why not help those who seek to help me?
Thank you🍻
I literally bought ca glue and activator this morning before watch this video 😫 should have got the thicker glue 🤣
Yes I have made this mistake in the past! The medium viscosity stuff is not ideal! Probably good for some things though.
Great info as I have a few door trimmings I have to do down the road as I slowly renovate the house. One room at a time. Don’t want to bite off more than I can chew. 😉
Smart not to rip everything apart and be living in a construction site for years!
When you glue your finger to it twist before pulling is the trick. And shake that can everytime before use:)
Twist…. And shout🍻
@@TheFunnyCarpenter You forgot "Shake it up, baby!"
Does this work as well on fjp/poplar?
Definitely
This is how the top dogs do it now
"Extra slippy"? Are you from Pittsburgh?
Personally, I liked the double hat flick and hair explosion trick the best
You forgot to include the Trick Carpenters don't want us to know.
This stuff is insanely sticky. I had a tiny bit on my thumb then was squeeing a tube of caulk and i felt my finger sticky and it felt like it was going to rip the skin right off my thumb.
How does this compare to PUR hot melt?
Much cheaper for the home gamer. That said, I wish the trim carpenter that did our house knew this. lol
😎⚒️😎⚒️😎
Cheers Ted🍻
Cutting and gluing is not the problem. Having the proper measurements and a square doorway.
The only problem with is u only get one shot if u misalign ur knackered I still prefer using normal wood glue but in some circumstances it’s a life saver
It's easy with short pieces working on a bench!!😂
I hate miter joints, mostly because the seam always shows, but especially because they come apart. Normally, I do butt joints, but if I need to do a miter joint, this is how I'll do it.
Pro tip... If you happen to glue your finger to the piece. Don't pull your finger away. Twist it.
Also. Keep a bottle of nail polish remover with you. The acetone type. If you get squeeze out. Immediately use the nail polish remover and brush it on. Wipe clean.
Dude, that sounds like a magic solution. I will definitely give that a go this weekend!
Amen!
Kind of a short and narrow door frame, though.
🤣a special door in imagination land🍻
How did people do this for hundreds of years by hand with no glue and hand nails?
"CARPENTERS HATE THIS ONE TRICK"
It's a great technique, but if you need to sand, you're SOL. Wood glue, although slower is the better choice. You know what a even better choice is? Learn to measure all the angles caused by uneven drywall and such, then set up the saw to cut it. Fits better, looks better.
Definitely important not to leave any squeeze out on. The problem with fitting things to uneven surfaces and wood glue, is that unless it’s a magical fit, it’s likely going to crack. Magic is alway possible but not likely practical🍻
@@TheFunnyCarpenter "Definitely important not to leave any squeeze out on." Always good advice. That's what my mom taught me when I was a toddler.
I have tried to precisely measure uneven surfaces in the past and my experience so far has been that you never have enough accurate measurements to make things perfect. If you knew at the outset that for any particular piece there was a perfect length and a perfect angle to cut and you just had to measure those, then I could make it work well. But that's rarely the case. Instead, if I'm having to deal with corners that are out of square, I'm usually *also* dealing with walls being out of plumb, drywall mud buildup making distance between walls different between the top and the bottom of baseboard, humps or other curved profiles, etc. So you take more measurements and reset your saw and such and it still doesn't come out right because there were other factors that you couldn't adjust for. If I could find a client willing to pay for the time it would take to treat every corner as a unique compound miter and then scribe the cut to the walls and the floor, I'd take that job. But most people just want something that looks good enough that it doesn't catch the attention of a disinterested viewer, and aren't particularly worried about whether it holds up on close inspection.
hot glue and battery powered glue gun
No carpenter on earth would do mitres that way. When your on a housing site . A. There is not enough space. b. You are working with miniature sizes. Try doing this with a double door frame in full size in miniature. Impossible.
nah, done this countless times in houses. Get set up with a nice production table and let the good times roll. If you want mitres that are bordering perfection this is the best way I've found. If you're standards are different or you have a way that works well for you, also cool. Thanks for checking out the vid.
At the current prices builders want to pay for trim , you would lose your azz glueing every joint together .
Construction project manager here: every finishing carpenter we work with uses this method so what’s with the clickbaity sass?
Every solid carpenter uses the method, yet the average home owner has likely never heard of it….until now. You’re welcome🍻
3/16 reveal, 1/4 inch is too much. It looks much better that way.
Hot glue is cheaper, faster, and stronger.
Why do you all think that carpenters DON’T want us to know these “secrets”? Give me a break! There aren’t even enough carpenters and builders out there to keep up with the huge housing crisis across North America so I really don’t think they care about us knowing trade secrets.
I really don’t care if people know
That showed nothing
Don’t be afraid to watch again with your eyes open🍻
@@TheFunnyCarpenterhow much do you charge to trim the average run of the mill track house with just baseboard, interior door installation and lockout ? Say around 1500 square feet ?
Paint grade without cabinets or balustrade. Owner supplied materials, around $3,000@@watsamatau
Funny Man…. How did you get 360k? I remember the good old days when “we” were begging for 20k. How about a shop tour? Thanks loads… now go play hockey Hey.
" Glueing Trick Carpenters Don't Want You To Know!!! Really? You know that is pretty damn lame. Who would care? Lame.