How to Design and Use 3D PRINTED LEATHER STAMPS // Fusion 360 & Leatherworking Tutorial
3D printed stamps are a great way to add endless customization to your leather projects! In this tutorial, I'll show you my ENTIRE PROCESS from start to finish: designing stamps in Fusion 360 for embossing and debossing, slicing, 3D printing and finishing the stamps, and getting crisp, clean impressions on veg tan leather.
Thanks for watching!
------- Contents of this video -------
00:00 - Intro
0:20 - Embossing vs. debossing
0:47 - Designing a stamp for embossing in Fusion 360
4:53 - Slicing a stamp for 3D printing
5:56 - Designing a stamp for debossing in Fusion 360
8:49 - 3D printing and finishing the stamps
10:09 - Embossing leather
12:38 - Debossing leather
You can directly support my videos and access exclusive behind-the-scenes content (including a BTS podcast for each video!), physical rewards and more on Patreon: / morleykert
TOOLS / MATERIALS I USED IN THIS VIDEO:
Dial Calipers - amzn.to/3s98U0P
PLA 3D Printer Filament - amzn.to/3bkFKFj
Prusa i3 MK3S 3D Printer: www.prusa3d.com/category/orig...
OTHER TOOLS I LIKE TO USE:
www.amazon.com/shop/morleykert
Note: The above shopping links are affiliate links, meaning that, at no additional cost to you, I may earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase.
You can see more of my work and behind-the-scenes content on:
INSTAGRAM: / morleykert
TWITTER: / morleykert
TIKTOK: vm.tiktok.com/xSfbdj/
I'm also on these podcasts!
Into the Spotlight: anchor.fm/into-the-spotlight
CLAMP: www.clampcast.com/
morleykert.com/
#fusion360 #leathercraft #3Dprinting
I just stumbled across this technique in my own work. After it worked I did a quick search and found your video. I have only done debossing so far, hadn't even considered embossing with one of these. Excellent video.
EXECELENT video. Answered all my question in in shot! Well Done my friend!
Great tutorial. Quick note, however - don't wet the leather so much. You do Not want water standing on the surface. Using a spray bottle is great, but spritz lightly, stopping before the water starts to pool. You want the surface damp and cool to the touch, not water logged. Damp leather allows for better compression of the fibers and a shorter stamp time. If done correctly, you shouldn't have to leave a stamp under compression any longer than 30 seconds. Why? Because too much water allows the leather to act like a sponge. If you remove the stamp too soon, the compressed fibers are likely to reabsorb the surrounding moisture, opening the cells again and dulling the impression. However, if only about half the surface layers are wet, this allows the stamp to press fully into the bottom layers to compress and stick the fibers together. You'll have a crisper impression that will last.
Thanks
Great video! Your presentation was clear and concise. Thank you.
Wow - so many cool uses for 3D printers. It really looks like it was done by an expensive process - great job!
I'll never do this but it was really interesting learning how you did it. Looks fantastic.
Great work as always Morley!
Thank you!
I've been making handbags for a year now and this video is very useful for improving my craft, thank you.
That’s so great to hear, thank you!
Very interesting video. Very nice job on the examples. Thank you for sharing your skills.
Nice work and useful tips.
Nice, I'll have to try this out!
Really great video and tutorial Morley! Definitely picked up some things!
Thanks man!
Excellent Video THanks!!
I am so jealous of your fusion knowledge. Great job Morley!
Thanks man, it just takes practice!
Thank you so much for your video. After I figured out my software and equipment I produced a great stamp. Thank you!!!
That’s awesome to hear, thanks for watching!
Thanks this gave me a fantastic idea!😀
Great video! Thanks! My only additional comment is that the leather is a little too wet yet to stamp. The surface should almost be back to a normal color before stamping. That will give you a nice burnished effect in the stamping.
i make coasters using this method. it's a blast. thanks for sharing
Nice! I have yet to make coasters, that's a great gift idea.
What a nice idea. I saw a video about bookbinding by Ingenius designs, and there i recommended trying old typewriter letters for making embossing, but this is so much more simple
Exactly how I did my stamp, but some problems to deboss, thx for the advice!
I really appreciate this video, thank you much !
Thanks for watching!
Great video Morley, super informative
Thanks man!
really helpful thanks
A fusion tip: if you want to select the outer linesegments, you can click the chain button in the popup menu, you only have to touch the line at any point and it selects the entire line . Kind regards Hans
Good one, Thanks
Very cool Morley, great tutorial.
Thanks James!
Great job 👍😍🤩 I want that printer 😭
Really interest mate, 3d printings amazing!
Thank you so much!
I have a leather day pack that this will work with nicely. Thanks 👍✌🥃
Great video
Very good work! I just tried it myself with Fusion. Works perfectly. Greetings from Germany
Thank you! So glad that you tried it and it worked! 😁
@@MorleyKert You´re very welcome! Me too 😃
@@MorleyKert I still have one question: Can the stamp also be used on purchased and therefore already end-treated belts? 🤔
I’m not really sure, it probably depends on the type of leather. You may have to remove the top coat first. If it’s veg tan leather, you have a much better shot!
@@MorleyKert Okay, I understand. I'll give it a try. It is a black leather belt. Already a little older, I can not break much there 😄
I have the book like 75% complete. Have not touches the leather yet. I'm glad. Now to get into fusion 360 and figure something cute out
I have found you can make leather stamps with a lasercutter as well (really detailed ones), though it takes several passes to get it deep enough to not leave a mark from the edge of your stamp block. Since I have both a printer and a laser, I've tried making a 3D printed blank that's slightly oversized and then lasering away the appropriate material. Then I get the deep clearance from the print and the fine detail from the laser. PLA lasers really nicely FYI. Also the ironing feature in the slicer is available in CURA for effectively any printer that works with CURA, not just Prusa's
That’s a really cool idea, I’ve never thought of lasering PLA before. Would love to give that a try.
@@MorleyKertplus if you print one color, then print the last layer a different color you can effectively make your own 2 color plastic like the Rowmark 2 color engraving sheets. When you laser it (if your settings are right) you not only get the deboss, but it's the other color.
@@MorleyKert I BEEN DOING LEATHER WORK FOR 22 YEARS AND IT CALLED CASING THE LEATHER IT DOES NOT MAKE IT RUBBER WHAT IT DOES IT HELP THE LEATHER TO RECIVE THE INPRESTION OF UR STAMP BETTER. i AM SORRY I AM TYPING CAPS BUT I HAVE BAD EYE SITE AND CAN SEE THE SMALL FONT
Lovely process with sharp results! I have no 3D-printer though... might have to try out some more analog variants of this technique! ;-)
Thank you! You could do it with a hand carved linoleum block.
That sounds like fun! We have a big annual medieval fest in town, might have to crack that method out for this :)
I have a laser engraver, I can make the die out of acrylic that you can use to emboss or deboss. If anyone sees this and wants a custom one, let me know. Also have leather and hats and could do the whole thing.
Great video, clear instructions. #cadisfun Beautiful results. Mahalo for sharing! : )
Thank you! I agree, CAD is fun 😁
Very interesting
Thanks, this will motivate me to break out my 3D printers.
Awesome ..
Nice use of your Prusa! I do believe Cura slicer has had an Ironing feature for some time now for those with other machines... though I still prefer to wet sand my flat surfaces up to 800 to get a shiny finish.
Thanks! I’ve yet to try ironing, will definitely take it for a spin on the next stamp. It does seem to add a considerable amount of print time for large surface areas though.
@@MorleyKert Yep, and maybe it's gotten better, but I remember it would melt the plastic slightly over the edges creating a small lip, I was never too happy with the result, hence the sanding. My favorite setting BY FAR in Cura is Fuzzy Skin, it's pretty amazing the kinds of textures you can get with it. That being said, I mostly use Prusa slicer unless I want to use one of the special settings Cura has. Keep up the awesome work!!
Great video! Have you done the same with PVC?
this stencil can be used to emboss cards with and without foil?thanks
Nice work, Thank’s a lot for sharing your skill. But i am pretty sure you use the same technique for both work so they are debossing in the two case ;)
Hello, Excellent tutorial, do you think it can work in the same way with a material called semi leather, which is a mixture with synthetic material?
Could you do a video on how to import images into fusion 360 to make special stamps for leather?
Will a resin print also work? Or is the pressure too much?
The process seems as straight forward as is can be. Now I just have to relearn Fusion360. Haven't used it in at least a year.
It is pretty straightforward and very fun 😊 Good luck!
can you mqake a sheridan flotal deboss pattern for leather, like the ceaft tool patterns from tandy?
this is very cool thanks! Do u know if it works with leather that's already dyed?
You can stamp leather that is already dyed however the impression can reveal undyed parts around edges which would need to be cleaned up afterwards with a small paintbrush
Nice tutorial. What was the 3d printing time for the two stamps?
Thanks, Jacob! It took 90 minutes to print from PLA at 100% infill.
what happens if the leather gets wet again? will the impression fade away?
Hello guys if anyone needs some help with making custom patterns let me know! Beautiful video!
I have a leather radio strap I want to deboss with my name. Will this process work? Do I need no wet the leather? Thanks! Good video
If it’s veg tan, it should work! You do have to thoroughly saturate the leather with water
Try "ironing" function
Great video. Please where can I buy those calipers from?
There’s a link in the description!
Do you make stamps
Can you deboss a name into an already-bound cover of a book or will that ruin it?
How do you make the 3D stamp????
Can you used this on faux leather?
Probably not - though with enough force you will likely end up with some level of impression. However, if it’s thin it probably won’t be very noticeable.
Do you do these embossing and debossing stamps for others!? Can I send my logo and you customised a stamp for me????
wait you said when you soak vegetan leather with water it turns into a plastic material? thats amazing.
Yes it does! I agree, totally amazing :)
can you make a border around the font itself like the real leather stamps
Yes! You could use the offset tool on the text in the sketch and then extrude that area
@@MorleyKert wow that would be cool
ive sent you an email
@@MorleyKert did you get my email
I did and I just responded!
Very nice, where are you?
Thanks! I'm in Toronto.
Nice instruction but a little too fast for the new fusion user
Can you make This for me?
Sorry, I’m not doing commission work at this time
Okay, I know this video is a couple of years old, and there's some good advice in the comments from leatherworkers, so let me collate it and add some of my own experience to it. Adding water to veg tan leather: You applied WAY too much, when you're wanting to make impressions on leather, this can be called stamping tooling embossing debossing etc you want to do what's called "casing" the leather. You're adding JUST enough water to be able to do this, too much and you can end up losing definition while it dries, and you add more when you want to mould the leather, but even then you can add too much to do this. Typically, you add some water evenly and let it return to it's natural colour, it'll feel cool to the touch. (This is also a good tell to see if the piece has dried enough) Just think, the more water you add, the longer your stamp needs to be in position for it to take properly. In the video you've actually only debossed, either the text/border or the negative space. Yes one looks like you have embossed, but it's not actually raised the surface. To do that you typically want a male and female mould, like you can see on paper logo embossers. This is tricky to do however, especially in the middle of a project. As for you infilling stamps. They don't need to be 100% infill, typically adding some extra walls top/bottom layers will do the trick, with a fairly high infill, you'll find if you have any errors whilst stamping it's because of how you applied force. Also depending on the size and or depth of you stamps you may want to put a small radius on edges to prevent tearing, this is more important the deeper embossing you want.
Took the fun outta the hobby.
I'm not sure what do you mean "If you have a Prusa", as every printer can do an ironing pass.
whoa. i can not approve the way you made this cad job.
Why is it so out of focus?
US customary units 🤮