#geeetech #A10T #3dprinting
Geeetech A10T 3 in 1 Color 3D Printer Review - Is this 3 color 3D printer worth the $309 price?
Product Features:
A10T extruder cover features 360° ventilation design, greatly enhancing the dissipation of heat and guaranteeing excellent printing quality. A10T extruder motor uses a gear train of 3:1 speed ratio, amplifying input torque and improving your printing experience. Adopting the modularized design for extruder wiring, A10T makes it easy to exchange the wire. The V-shaped wheels and rails on each axis, made from wear-resistant aluminum profile, could, in a large measure, reduce the printing noise and offer you a quiet 3D printing
Printing Specs
Printing technology: FDM
Printing volume: 220*220*250mm3
Printing accuracy: 0.1~0.2mm
Positioning precision: X/Y: 0.011mm Z: 0.0025mm
Printing speed: 60mm/s
Nozzle quantity: 3-in-1-out single nozzle
Nozzle diameter: 0.4mm
Filament: Diameter 1.75mm; ABS/PLA, etc.
Environment temperature: 10℃-40℃
Operating system: Windows/Mac/Linux
Slicing software: Repetier-Host, EasyPrint 3D, Cura File
Format: .STL/.Gcode
Purchase from:
www.geeetech.com/geeetech-a10...
Workbench
Harbor Freight workbench -www.harborfreight.com/60-in-4...
Disclaimer - This is an instructional video only - I assume no responsibility if you do not become a pro after watching this video. This video is for learning purposes only, you are following the steps in this video at your own risk!
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We recently acquired a Geeetech A10T and noticed the same issue with the printer overriding the temperature settings in Cura. A little digging, and I found that the Cure profile for the machine had the temps hard-coded in the printer start code: M104 S215 M140 S55 G92 E0 M109 S215 Once I removed the S values for the hot end and bed, it ran with what I entered in Cura. Thanks for sharing your thoughts on the machine.
Hi Loving Hands, I am having the same problems with mine, can you explain how you went about changing the hard-code on the printer, many thanks.
thanks so much for this unbiased review! was about to purchase this for my hub until i checked this vid out. I can't believe how many other channels are so biased, saying it's a wonderful printer before posting an affiliate purchase link
Thanks! Let’s just say Geeetech hasn’t been in touch since the review 🤔! Does it print? Yeah, the prints were rather nice. However, there I big quality concern, I just believe it is too cheaply made and will not last. Thanks for the feedback.
remove the temprature settings for the printer in cura and then you can set the temp settings in the slicer options.
Regarding the color bleed between the white and red, couldn't it just be the nozzle slightly touching/melting the red printed area and rubbing off some of it on the white print? Perhaps it could be solved with a z-hop? Just a thought... Anyway, thanks for a great review!
Love the honesty and you've saved my money. New subscriber
Thanks for watching! Much appreciated 👍
hi , new to 3D and have bought an A10T. More interested in the testing, and the colour changes. Can you tell me how you get the colour change on the tugboat.
Very unique printer, had some hope for that one! That blue and red lizard looks pretty cool! See Bear is in the post credits 😉
Hey there NHWMP! Thanks for the feedback! Yes, the red and blue lizard came out great, really wanted the white eyes! See you caught Bear! Thanks again for being my channel moderator!
The stringing you got on the benchy's is what I get when using Overture filament, when I started using GeeeTech filament I hardly get any stringing. Came out cleaner too.
Hello Darren, thanks for watching! The white filament is Creality filament, the red is Overture, and the blue is Sunlu. I had very minor, to no stringing issues with the Creality white, this came with my CR6-SE.
I don't have a A30M but I have a A10M with Chimera 2 in 2 out hotend. I'm just wondering if you have any videos how to set it up and getting it working with a profile? Also do you know of any firmware that's compiled for this set up? Thanks man. Great video.
Check your Gcode settings I had same problem found a copy of temp set g code line that I accedentlty did not remove it would change nozzle temp 1/3 way all my prints. Removed line in custom code option in Slicer and fixed it
Just wish i saw this 5 weeks ago. I bought myself a Geeetech A20M and it's just not what i expected. No consistency at all. I ordered a Creality CR-10 V2 now and hope it's going to arrive within a week.
It looks like this works better than my Prusa MK2 MMU1. I would have loved to have those issues with the MMU.
Hi just watch your video i did have the same issue with the temp jumping to 215 upon investigation i found it was in the start code of cura, i deleted it and now its fine
hey mate I have the same printer im haven trouble getting the mixer software to work on my MacBook could you do a video plz
Can the printer mix two different materials, such as ABS and PLA? or just Can it mix two different colors of the same material?
The bowden tube is much longer than normal since it's mounted on top rather than on the x gantry. This means more stringing especially since it's using the cheap ptfe tube rather than capricorn. I'm thinking about making a multicolor printer but with direct drive which means the print head will be very heavy. It will need a counter weight such as like elevators use to keep the extruder motors from weighing it all down.
Na, My CR10 S5 (500 x 500 x 500 print bed) has a super long bowden tube and doesn't string like that!
What kind of controller board is used? Lots of channels needed I figure?
I had to bust open the case during the live stream. There was two items that were rattling in it! There was a T-Nut, and a Bowden tube retainer clip! I should have taken a closer look at it.
Hello. I own an A20T and I don't understand how to use the three colors like you did with the geko. I use the CURA slicer and when I start printing with the raspberry, the printer automatically changes the parameters by putting 34%, 33,%, 33% and I have to quickly modify it through the toogle mix. why does he do this? what should I do? and how do you set the colors as you did for the geko? thank you
have you managed to figure it out?
@@BolinhoDeArrozCozido yes, in the initial care settings I put only "g28" as initial gcode
John, I can tell you spent a lot of time on this review. It looks like it has promise, but they cut corners to keep the price down. I have seen a lot of multicolor printers and they all have the same problem - the wasted purge filament. I don't think that there is a solution with today's technology. A good honest review, Bear probably likes the dogs.
Hello David! Yeah this one took a while, glad it shows! I try to differ myself, and work with the product for a long time to confirm my findings. I really wanted this machine to work, and some prints were amazing! The purge waste exceeding 60mm to clear a nozzle, to me that is too much. The purge tower can possibly be bigger than the print. The cost cutting corners are just too excessive, and really shows. There was a lot of content I left out to keep it shorter, since I already did a live stream. I have one more printer review, then an upgrade video, followed by a few live streams 😉. Bear did like the prints. Thanks for the feedback my friend!
So
Check the slicer for a Gcode section that is doing the temp change and delete the Gcode making the temp change.
Well done. The lizard is a winner. But bear is still the best.
Have you try with a different white brand? I noticed you've 2 black spools and the white filament have a transparent spool.Maybe Some whites are less pigmented than others. I just look on youtube a video where a guy use markers to change color to a white filament. He try differents white filaments and find some improvemens, some absorbs better. Maybe you need the opposite.
Does these geeetechs really work on mixing filaments ? Could we generate another color mixing filaments with these geeetechs?
My experience with my A30T is no it cannot mix another colour. You always get that blend of colours around the model as is shown in the dog model in the video. I think it would need a stirrer in the hotend to mix, say, a green from blue and yellow.
@@itsmeintorrespain2714 I looking at the a30T but I don't find reviews. Is worth purchasing? Look very nice and well made, only the extruders have cheap looking.
@@ganakil I am not disappointed with my A30T. The extruders are different but just as well made as the rest of the machine. I also ordered the ABL probe and the glass bed at the same time as the machine and glad that I did.
I guess the stringing is because three extruders sharing one hot end, there's gonna be a hank of filament that is kinda outta control that won't be affected by retraction. Best way I can troubleshoot this
Шикарная штука. ))) Тоже захотелось
If you use red, green, blue filament, shouldn't it be possible to print every single color, because of their rgb code?
No. Red, Green, and Blue light can make all colors, but with pigment you would need Red, Blue, and Yellow.... And, even in that case you would need White and Black as well to get all the hues of each shade.
Well Well, i think you may have just saved me from wasting £300+ pounds (English), and possibly a new workshop window as the A10 might have left the building via said window. I have been looking at Multi-Colour printing for a few weeks now, looking at the 2 and 3 in one Geetech and also the offering from Palette with there (fairly Costly) slice and fuse unit . The build quality of the A10T's is really very poor and along with the way it handles the the filament change over has 'For Now' put me off going down this root with them, and i will look at other options, but keep an eye still on the Geetech as i think they have something, but they need to improve build and firmware. I think the filament waste is going to have to be accepted by me as well as it looks almost like quite a lot of wastage at 60mm, maybe almost the same amount of filament in the waste as in the model (Can't tell how dense both are!) Thank you again Sir for your review, and good luck with your A10T
I can buy one for 300 dollars and should I?
is it just me or does marlin based printers seem to have settings bugs out the butt or is it just me?
Does it use cura
Yes, I used Cura for this printer, using 3 extruders under the profile.
Thumbs up for the review. Thumbs down for the printer. IMHO if you want to do multiple colors the IDEX style printer is the best way to go. The good ones are not cheap however. They are pricey but hopefully they will come down in price given more time. There are a couple cheap ones on the market but none of them I wouldn't recommend. There is of course the Prussa MMU2, Mosaic's Palette 2 and the Chameleon which are another option that can be modded to your printer and probably do better than this Geeetech A10T.
Thanks! Yeah, hope to get a IDEX style printer someday. Was only impressed with the color mixing, and how clean the lines were on the lizards. Like you said, the good ones are not cheap. If I was a customer of this printer, it would have been returned right away. Thanks again for watching, and your feedback!
I made a software to control the 3 extruder. I can send you for test
For RGB like printing?
@@meowme7644 i can mix color in %. exemple : Ext1=11%.Ext2=20 and the third to rise 100%=69%
weird that your is 200x200 when mines 235x235
Why would you need spare parts from get go?😂😂😂