2005 Mazda 3 Fuel Pump Replacement: Part 1 - Fuel Tank Removal
***PLEASE NOTE: THE EVAP LINE RELEASE TOOLS THAT I GO ON AND ON ABOUT IN THIS VIDEO ARE NOT 100% NECESSARY TO REMOVE THE EVAP LINES AFTER ALL! I MISUNDERSTOOD HOW THOSE CONNECTORS WORK.
IF YOU SQUEEZE THE TABS AT THE VERY BOTTOM OF THE BLUE CLIP ON THE EVAP LINE CONNECTOR AND PULL, THE HOSE WILL COME OFF AND THE BLUE RELEASE CLIP WILL STAY ON THE END OF THE NIPPLE.
HERE ARE THE OPTIONS:
1) IF YOU CAN SQUEEZE THE ENDS OF THE BLUE RELEASE CLIP WHILE PULLING THE HOSE OFF AT THE SAME TIME THEN YOU WON'T NEED THE RELEASE TOOLS. THIS MIGHT BE A CHALLENGE WITH ONE HAND SINCE THE EVAP LINES CAN BE PRETTY TIGHT.
2) YOU COULD LOWER THE BACK SIDE OF THE TANK ENOUGH TO GET ACCESS FOR BOTH HANDS TO REACH UP TO THE EVAP LINE. THEN, SQUEEZE THE ENDS OF THE BLUE CLIP WITH ONE HAND AND PULL THE HOSE OFF WITH THE OTHER HAND.
3) AT THE CHARCOAL CANISTER, YOU'LL JUST HAVE TO SEE IF YOU CAN SQUEEZE BOTH ENDS OF THE CLIP WITH ONE HAND WHILE PULLING UP ON THE HOSE WITH THE OTHER HAND.
4) IF THOSE OPTIONS DON'T WORK, MAKE AND USE THE TOOLS I MENTION. IF NOTHING ELSE, YOU KNOW THEY WORK PLUS THEY ALLOW YOU TO WORK WITH ONE HAND.
(Thanks to Eric O. for pointing out my oversight on how those clips actually work.)
This is a detailed procedure for the DIYer. If you need to replace the fuel pump on your Mazda 3 then you need to drop the fuel tank.
I show you how to prepare the vehicle and then how to remove the fuel tank from a 2005 Mazda 3 hatchback with the non-turbo charged 2.3L engine.
The removal of the tank may require the fabrication of two very simple and inexpensive release tools made from a plastic fuel line disconnect tool. Also, be warned that fuel and evap lines are tight to begin with and that on older cars they can be very hard to get off!
This is part one of a two part series regarding the replacement of the fuel pump. In part two I show how to remove and replace the fuel pump and then replace the tank and verify fuel pressure.
Thank you for posting, i am a young lady trying to get my 2005 3s fixed up so it stops stalling. I’ve had mechanics take advantage of me and my mother before so I’m goin solo!
Great work dude. Thanks. Saved a ton of people A LOT of time and money. I feel like I owe you.
Thank you for the help! Watching this before digging into my Mazda!
I just finished up our 2008 3 fuel pump replacement following this video. In my case, I NEEDED the mentioned "special service tool" that was made here. Harbor Freight has the exact size mentioned in the video and worked perfectly with a little arm strength. There was no way in hell I was getting off the evap lines at the charcoal canister and the top of the fuel tank. Maybe others will have success at pinching the plastic connectors together, but I did not. Also, the master disconnect set auto zone has available for rent only allowed me to disconnect the front 2 evap lines, it was no help for the back 2. Hope this helps someone else. 3 days after the install, all evap codes are cleared and check engine light is off. Thank you Baxrok2 for this upload!
Congrats and thanks!
Awesome work man, keep it up.
Excellent Video, Thank you bud! 😀👌
Thanks for the video, it was really helpful!!!
You're welcome! Sorry about the screw up with my stupid "special tool." I wish I could undo that but I can't. lol
Awesome. I owe you a beer
Thanks for the vid I used a zip tie around the evap hose to hold the clip then pushed up on the hose
Excellent idea! I wish I hadn't been so stupid on mine with that dumb "special tool." lol
you should have continued doing videos man you are great .. thanks
Thank you. Except for my screwup with that stupid "special" tool the videos seem to have helped a few people.
Nice video, I want to hook up a fuel pressure tester using a "T" connector between the fuel line and the fuel injector rail, what size of fuel hose do I need to buy 5/16" or 1/4"? Are these high pressure fuel line, if so what PSI hose to get? I have a 2006 Mazda 3 2.3L. Thanks!
¡¡¡GREAT VIDEO HOWEVER: I successfully replacement the fuel pump on my 08 Mazda 3 S 2.3l hatchback and the tank design is different from this older model of the mazda3 that's shown in this video. There are the same 4 screws and the plate underneath the backseat, same electrical connection under that, same 3 strap bolts, same 2 quick disconnect fuel and EVAP lines. The difference is in the rear of the tank where the fuel filler hose has another smaller hose for the charcoal canister I believe next to it. Those both have 10mm worm drive clamps that need to be removed from above using the "reach around" technique shown in the video. After the tank is safely dropped to the ground. You'll notice the top looks much different than in the video. The later models of this car have a fuel pump with a metal top and a different electrical connecter. It's a bit more expensive part for some reason. I had a little trouble finding at my local part store but eventually we found it. Anyways it's pretty intuitive on how to get the old pump out. There's a retaining ring that you have to use a flat head screw driver and a hammer to rotate counter clockwise. Then you have to roatwe the pump it self counter clockwise until it lines up with the notches in the tank. Then the pump will come out. Lmk if you have any other questions.
Smart gentleman I admire you
Solid work buddy. You did a good job explaining the process. Making a video is hard right? You did a good job on that too. Those guys who are good at it sure make it look easy.
Thanks Wyatt. Yes, its challenging. I did a fuel pressure testing video before this but I can't bring myself to publish it. So full of misspoken words it's just embarrassing. I'm debating just doing it all over again. Thanks!
It was okay. I just thought I missed a video. :)
Baxrok2 please post the fuel pressure video even if it is not the best
Okay, I'll work on it. Did you have any specific questions about it?
This is easily a $1200 job at a shop, no? Sheesh... So much "unnecessary" work to get at the goods. Thanks for the video. You're making me consider getting a Mazda! :)
BlastReadingSeries Yup, $400 for the pump and around $150 for new rings and gaskets alone!
Damn I'm glad my 2004 has easy access to that thing from the inside of the vehicle
Haha, yeah, I was very disappointed when I found out that the tank had to come down!
Glad to see the classic reach around being implemented in this video haha. On the EVAP lines with the blue locks are you sure they need a special service tool? Didn't get a good look at the but are they the type that you can just squeeze the to exposed blue tabs the pull? Does that make sense? Great video BTW and no not all pros have the tools :) We make a lot of it up as we go especially working in the aftermarket. Great Job --Eric O.
Well, now that you mention it, no I'm not 100% sure that you can't just squeeze them. (embarrassing) I'll hit the junk yard tomorrow and verify. If so that would be a game changer for sure on the first line. On the second line there isn't much room to get your fingers on both tabs at the same time so the little release tools really help. Thanks Eric!
I know its already been mentioned, but to add credence to the idea for the Mazda3, on the Volvo V70 1998-2000, inorder to do that in tank fuel pump you do indeed cut a larger hole in the back seat floor pan for access vs dropping the tank. Then seam seal a plate or whatever over it. Just thought Id mention it.
great video man I know there is not much room as you show in the video to work
Well, I broke the charcoal hose clamp at the 9:00 mark sigh!!!! However, I would love to meet the guy who thought it would be a good idea to put the hose clamp facing upwards. I would take him out back, beat the crap out of him, have him remove it so that I can put it on correctly. Anyways, thank you for this video, it is very informative. If it weren't for these 2 items, this would not be a difficult repair, as it is I have a broken fuel filter cap that leaks when I fill the gas can up on full. but I will keep at it.
Dang, that does suck! I know exactly what you mean about that clamp. I said the same thing when I saw it up there. We forget though that these things are probably assembled off the car then put in as whole assemblies. I still think you should be able to beat the guy up, but maybe just a light beating! lol Yeah, keep at it for sure and good luck!
That seems to be exactly what happened with that clamp, They assembled fuel cell then lowered the body on the car. I did manage to get it off hose clamp off though, it took a new attitude and a new day, but it is off. I still cant get the evap hose from the charcoal canister off, but it does allow me to drop the tank far enough to replace the cap on the fuel filter, so i will be able to repair the problem. thanks again.
Could you use a nylon tie wrap around the blue thing to keep it compressed, then pull off the evap line?
Yeah, probably could. Great idea!
Nice vid,pal! Could you tell me plz,where's the fuel filter located? Working on a 2007,2.0l petrol! Do i have to remove the rear seat?
Filter is in the fuel pump.
You are genius
Fuel line at pump: “…and I disconnected it just now.” Possibly THE MOST IMPORTANT INFORMATION IN THE ENTIRE VIDEO. The pump fuel line Q-D fitting isn’t like the evaporator ones. No room to get any special tool in there to release the fitting. HOW DID YOU RELEASE THAT ONE?
At the pump is the easiest one! If it's like mine in part 2, you just lift up on the little gray thingy. I guess yours could be different though. Here's a pic of what it probably looks like and how it works. www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-800-396?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAjwv8qkBhAnEiwAkY-ahmn-QY3EbHKHuJ1HIZ6SS-zkLKNXAnsgGKap-FQCR__C5FyikDZg1RoCq-IQAvD_BwE
What is the earlier video you keep referencing? I’m trying salvage the gas from my fuel tank of my totaled car.
Unfortunately I never posted the other video. To drain the tank, attach a hose like I do in the very beginning and activate the fuel pump by jumping the contacts in the fuel pump relay. Search KZhead for a video on jumping the fuel pump relay if you dont know how.
@@baxrok2. thank you so much!!
Thanks
You're welcome. Remember, you don't need that stupid 'special tool' I talked about.
No access from under the seat?
Hello. I`m trying to buy a fuel filter to my Mazda 3 2007 1.6 but every time I'm ordering it it comes a diifrent one, no for my Car. Any idea when i can get a correct one?
I'm sorry but I dont know of any particular place to get one . I looked online and unfortunately none of them showed parts for cars outside of the US, so I can't help you.
How did you manage to release the fuel in the car by the use of a switch with your right hand. I am going to work on my car in about 3 hours and want to know before doing it.
I used an old junkyard relay with the top off to activate the fuel pump. You can just use a jumper wire across the same two terminals in the fuse box as the two large pins on the relay. Be careful, 12v will be present on the jumper! Consult a manual if you're not clear on this.
I fixed my car about 2 weeks ago... It ended up being the fuel pump lock ring which was split. It has been replaced along with the O-ring and I have not smelled gas fumes or seen a check engine light! Thank you very much for the help. Saved me!
Outstanding! That's a great story and I'm so glad that my video helped.
Leiva Kusen what were the symptoms you encountered with a busted lock ring. I think that's my problem. I get a evap leak code and a rich condition at idle. also the long term fuel trim is -20%. did you experience anything similar to this?
Thanks for video.. That's quite a piece of work Ford / Mazda unleashed on us. I haven't worked as something this poorly designed so I took apart a Peugeot. What's making it challenging is I have still have 1/2 a tank left so it's awkward to handle on my own.
I showed how to drain the tank, so you could have done that. Otherwise, yeah, dropping the tank sucks for sure.
@@baxrok2. My fuel pump is dead, hence the challenge.
@@normcook9335 Oh, I see. Occasionally, one can bang on either the bottom of the tank or the top of the fuel pump to get it going for a bit. Worth a try.
@@baxrok2. BTW, the conclusion of the story. I broke the top of the fuel pump line off while twisting the ring off, so needed to get a used assy-pump (not assy) I bought from Rockauto didn't fit anyway. It was back on the road at 374K KM and lasted a few yrs before a family member crashed it and wrote it off at 402K KM. At least it was 30K and not 3K (but still a bit disappointing now that I think about it). But I wouldn't have tackled without your video - so thanks for the inspiration. :)
I replaced mine, found out it’s a 29gph pump but my Mazda 3 calls for 46gph. Could that affect acceleration and over performance and mileage?
I think it could affect performance and acceleration. You can test it with a fuel pressure gage and do a few throttle snaps to see if the pump can keep up.
What do you mean by activate the pump with the spare relay? How can I do this?
You jumper the two contacts of the relay to make the pump run. If you have a spare relay you can do it easily. If you don't have a spare relay, you just use a piece of wire.
@@baxrok2. Thanks man!!
Where is the previous video on fuel pressure testing?
Unfortunately, I never did get around to posting that video. I do believe that there are others on YT.
I don't find the fuel filter on mine, it isn't on the side of the tank, can you help me please ? Thanks
It's inside the tank.
@@baxrok2. waouh, crazy... how can they have done a such stupid thing...
Curious, what were your symptoms for needing this repair?
After driving for a while, would not start again.
Thanks!
Can you get to the fuel pump when removing the rear seat without dropping the tank? Just asking for a friend.
You can get to the electrical connector and fuel connections, but you can't take the pump out on a first gen.
Baxrok2 leave it to Mazda to make the work more difficult. I have a Mini Cooper, one of the hardest cars to work on first generation but, I can get to the fuel pump by just removing the rear seat.
@@louprimo6062 Yeah, it's a bummer but fortunately you'll only do it once! My replacement pump was bad, so I had to repeat the entire job just a week later. Haha, it happens.
Am the only one considering cutting sheet metal under the seat?.... Seriously fuck all that
How long did this take you?
It was several years ago so honestly I don't remember. Also, it was the first time I'd ever done it so it took longer. It can certainly be done in a day if you're skilled and have the proper tools.
Where did you bought the fuel sending unit ?
Rock Auto.
Nicee thanks for replying men very appreciated , im looking for a good one , since installation did you have issues ?? What was the part number ?
@@downtown1993ful No issues after install. I did have problems with the cheap fuel pump. Had to take it out and replace it with the better pump. Check Rock Auto for the correct part number for your car.
So you replaced with one from rock auto ??
@@downtown1993ful Yes, ROCK AUTO.
Finally
Video editing is a living nightmare and not for the time challenged. Also, you never realize how hard it is to speak clearly and without mistakes until you try to make a video! lol
+Baxrok2 I'm sure you're right.. I'll probably never know. But I meant finally I was the first lol
For someone as busy as you, you'd have to do an Eric the car guy routine and have somebody follow you around and video/edit for you. Maybe a kid looking to make a few bucks. It sure would be great to watch you work! Oh, and congrats on your first first.
That's funny. I guess I'll go with "second".
+Baxrok2 It would need some high frames per second count lately lol. Been nothing but swamped over here
I did the same thing but I cut a bigger hole in the back seat so I dident have to go through all that lol
Oh, I thought about it too! In the end, glad I didn't though.
Don't blame you they already cut 3/4 of it. Why did they only cut half a whole.
those some one has the link to the video before this one ?
Carlos, I'm sorry but I never made a video on testing the fuel pressure. There are one or two videos on KZhead on how to do it. Do you have a question, maybe I can help you?
How are you supposed to drain the gas with the pump thats supposed to be broken...
Jay M Well, if the pumps totally broken you have to siphon from the tank. Mine had a bad check valve so it still pumped but would not hold pressure after it ran for a while.
Baxrok2 alright thanks for the help! Im changing it right now thanks to the video
Jay M Your pump won't run at all? Weird. Did you verify circuit integrity and voltage/ground at pump etc,?
Baxrok2 it runs i can hear it turn on but it only gives a trickle of fuel when i tested it
Baxrok2 also no i didnt get the chance to test voltage is there any other way to know or fix it if thats the only issue?
Good old mazda rust bucket
yea!
Make top hole bigger? Ok got it.
Mazda engineered so you'll have to go into the dealer, I would've carefully cut the seat metal hole bigger to access the pump lid
DIYer's can do just about anything that the dealer shops can do. I don't like the idea of chopping up the body under the seat. As you can see the job isn't that bad.
I must say asking somebody to remove the electrical connector from inside the car after you have told them to remove the bolts for the fuel tank is asinine. Other than that the videos really good
Thanks. When you make your video on it, I'm certain that it will be flawless and without any "asinine" mistakes.
I feel like cutting the floor of my car to get the job done its a pain
You can do that if you want. It's a pain, I agree!
Skipped the part where you disconnected the line from the pump, which is why I watch. SMH
Which line?
Umm.... I know it is butchery, but you guys may want to consider just cutting a (bigger) hole underneath the back seat to access the pump and caulk the piece back in when you are done. Then when you install that cheap POS fuel pump replacement that craps out in 5 months, you are at least 5-up on the game next time.
@Questing Vagabond Honestly, even if the car was 2 years old and 23,000 miles I would not mind the hole chop technique. You can't see it, it literally has no effect on the car's operation, and resale value will be unaffected, etc.