5MP Doorbell Camera with AI Person Detection, PoE or WiFi models. PoE does not have WiFi module
1/2.7" 4:3 Image Sensor
2.66mm Fisheye Lens with 134° horizontal FoV.
Polycarbonate & ABS blend with UV stabilizer plastic housing.
AC6966B+TH1520GMA - SoC chip (CPU)
NT98566 - AI Image Processing chip
MX35LF1GE4AB - 1GB NAND flash memory
25Q64ESIG - 8MB of flash memory
2161 T588 - Thyristors (DC Rectifier)
CMT2157B - 433MHZ module
BL-M8812CU3 - 2.4/5GHz dual band WiFi module
Chapters
0:00 Intro
0:26 Front Cover
0:50 Front Screws (6)
3:30 Back Cover
4:00 Installation Requirements
5:40 Build Materials
6:35 Caulk & Dielectric Grease
8:10 O-Ring & Seals
9:40 Low Voltage connection
10:00 Speaker
10:40 Daughter Board
12:00 Main Motherboard
14:05 Antennas
14:30 Front Cover seals
18:25 433MHZ module
19:00 WiFi module
19:25 WiFi & PoE together?
20:37 Smaller stealth camera without button?
23:24 Outro
Thanks for the great tear-down info! I was able to use it to remove the face plate so I could attach the unit behind a flush mount plate. I also took the speaker out and mounted it firing forward through the grill for better audio volume. Now it looks really cool and not like something I just picked up at Home Depot!
The Doorbell WiFi version seems to suffer from periodic reboots probably due to overheating, not sure if this is also true for the PoE version. I'm hoping that some better cooling can fix this. Do you know what part this might be? I can confirm PoE does not work on the WiFii version for some reason. Wish it would!
since the jack is on the board containing the camera lens would you have a live view if plugged into your NVR? I understand it wouldn't have the ir LED or the motion sensing abilities but would the camera still present an image being unplugged from the other board?
Would the camera and infrared work without the plastic housing or is the transparent part of the housing a lens that is nessessry? I am thinking about mounting it behind a metal plate with glass inserts for the camera and infrared.
Is it practical to disassemble the moduel for the ourpose of cleaning the lens? I've had a lot of condensation on the inside which id like to clean, but given your remarks about the lens and image sensor assembly, maybe this is a bad idea.
This maybe stupid question, but would it be possible to just have one camera for 2 devices, so 2 buttons 1 camera... I have a situation where a house with 2 apartments has a built intercom interface with one camera amd two buttons, and Id like to repurpose that metal interface...if that makes sense. It would need some butchering and soldering but Im not sure if that would work
Thanks for the teardown. Am I correct in saying that the screw terminals cannot be used for POE power and it is just for power from the chime? And that external POE used for this device should be 24volts?
Both WiFi and PoE can use the screw terminals for low voltage from the old doorbell wiring 24volts. PoE is usually 48 volts snuck into the RJ45 wire pairs. You can't take PoE power and run it to the screw terminals. Get the correct doorbell for your needs. The Reolink chime plugs into a wall receptacle and is not wired into the old doorbell wiring, it connects wirelessly with 433mhz.
@RJ_Cormac I am not sure if you should, but you CAN actually run "PoE" power to the screw terminals. (ONLY under 24v DC) -You have been WARNED! I have done it as a temporary solution for weeks until the 48v PoE PS was delivered by using 12 and 24v DC supplies to the screw terminals.This doorbell natively only uses only 48vDC PoE through the CAT cable. If you split away 4 +5, 7+8 pins before the RJ45 connector and terminate to the screws it can be a temporary solution until a PS is sourced.(As you can see, in the jpg, I cut the power lines too short before terminating. lol) Maybe this type of connection can help those with the doorbell but not yet in possession of a 48v PoE PS. drive.google.com/file/d/1Ty94gehBgFLF39Ny_3k82PWbXMlUpHyv/view?usp=sharing
What are your thoughts on the possibility of separating the mainboard from the daughterboard (for the image sensor) and then getting say a 1-2ft flexible ribbon cable to connect to the mainboard so the mainboard (and button) could be hidden out of the way, only exposing the smaller camera to the outside world. My goal would be to have a smaller footprint Reolink camera without the doorbell button exposed. Basically cut the plastic housing in half and 3d print a black bottom cap and then put the mainboard 1-2ft away from the camera unit on the interior side of an exterior wall (or inside a wall behind the camera, out of the way). Looks like it would be doable if could find the right ribbon cable....
If you find the right cable it should work, I think Reolink should offer a mini camera without the doorbell parts, it would sell.
Any idea if it's possible to run my existing doorbell wiring to it with a 10W AC transformer, terminate the connection somewhere on the Reolink POE, but get it to physically short the 2 AC wires when the gpio button is pressed, triggering my mechanical chime, while at the same time triggering the stock 433mhz rf signal? I have yet to see anything like that on the market
Thanks for doing this video. Do you think it would be possible to replace the fish eye lens with another lens? For example, a zoomed in lens such as a x3 or x5, on an M12 mount. Similar to what some KZheadrs did with the Wyze V3.
DO NOT REMOVE THE LENS FROM THE SENSOR! I removed during a teardown before this video (I've done it 10+ times), but mine has never recovered from it. The focus is terrible beyond 10ft, I ruined this Video Doorbell Camera for the people, don't make my mistake.
The networking stopped working on mine, do you think the port could potentially be replaced? It still receives power and clearly records because the SD card has stuff on it.
Does anyone know how to change the momentary delay of the Reolink doorbell button to 1 second? It's configured to 4 seconds by default.
Can you do a teardown of the chime? I'm struggling to see how it opens. Looks like the plug bit is replaceable which is why I'm interested.
I could, but there is a few pictures with alterations to make it work with the original house chime on Reddit: www.reddit.com/r/reolinkcam/comments/zs7538/reolink_doorbell_original_house_chimebox_restored/ Let me know if you have further questions about the chime.
@@RJ_Cormac ah interesting thanks, hadn't seen that
Thnx! Maybe these connectors al already protected with some sort of anti corrosion spray? How can you identify this?
There was no pre-applied dielectric grease. They could try using gold plated terminals, but the more times people add/remove the SD card or plug/unplug the RJ45 the gold plating will wear off. The ideal solution is those small dielectric grease packets that a user would apply on the final installation. That will display any air or possibly of contact with moisture. Unless it's poorly mounted and allows direct water spray behind the doorbell. Need that bead of sealant around the top and the dielectric grease to ensure this lasts 5/10 years.
@@RJ_Cormac, thank you for your explanation.
Anyone tried to replace the lens to 6mm or 8mm ?
No, this is the only known Reolink doorbell teardown. It's not a standard Reolink lens, this has more fisheye curve into it.
Any idea how water could get into the lens assembly - and how to best protect it externally? I've had the WiFi version of this doorbell for about 6 months with no issues, but after a strong rainstorm recently the lens got water inside. It eventually evaporated in the sun a few days later, but now it's happening again every time it rains.