Kingroon KP3S 3.0 - A tiny *direct drive* cantilever 3D printer!. Let's review it!
In this video I'm poking around at a Kingroon KP3S, a small but particularly well spoken of printer among the community. Is it any good? Actually yeah I think so. But you should still watch for a bit more details, I think.
NOTE: Silly me forgot the review disclaimer details, I am not getting enough sleep. Here it is:
The 3D Printer was provided by Kingroon free of charge. No money was exchanged, no products or services have been agreed.
Purchase link: www.aliexpress.com/item/40012...
Printer on Amazon: www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08CZD7ZLC
Heat break: kingroon.com/collections/3d-p...
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"It's 180 millimetres by 180 millimetres, which converted to imperal is 18 by 18 centimetres" The first time i hear a conversion to imperial that is right.
I got a good chuckle out of this line. 😁
😂
Caught that. Loved it.
😂😂
I have one, I love it.. Add PEI Sheet and BLT and you are golden, I print at 100mm/s with Marling 2.0 + linear advance with good results. The mainboard is so overkill for it, it's great to be able to expand without buying stuff like you would on a Ender 2, removable Stepper drivers, 5 of them btw. 2 heater, 2 termistors etc... BLT is basically plug and play ( with marlin 2.0, not default firmware ), linear advance also works somehow even with the 2208 it comes with, it's magic! The titan clone is pretty decent, clone V6 also decent... the only downside is that the heater block is not standart size and the throat is M6 on both ends, so finding replacements sucks. The bad part is the firmware it ships with, it's a Marlin 1.0 variant with limited functionality, and the Tiny TFT24... Also the throat is PTFE lined on the block side, that image is misleading, you CAN'T go above 240 with it without getting some cancer gas on your face. I can print HIPS and ABS on it though at 235. I am on my way to setup Klipper to use on it and try 120mm maybe, looking forward to having
Do you have the kp3s or kp3l?
Also would love to see klipper on it! Im tempted to order one and klipperize it. I was also wondering cant you use the z endstop as a klicky probe?
I'm guessing one could swap the Kingroon V6 out of the Titan and replace it with a genuine E3D V6 which could allow for an all metal heatbreak? Might require some extra minor fiddling but do you think that would work?
I absolutely love mine. My spec... Printed base for P.S., Printed spool holder atop the 2040 with Z rod support, Printed display relocator(angles it for much easier viewing and use), BotBit BMG extruder(not a fan of TITAN) with Red Lizard hotend and a .4 Nozzle X, Fysetc steel with pei sheet. Print quality rivals my Prusa Mini+ and the time from idea to printing is way faster. To sum it up....AWESOME MACHINE especially for the $$
I have an original Ender 2 and despite having another printer that cost over 18X the cost of the Ender 2 it is my most reliable machine and the print quality is excellent also. I wouldnt mind getting one of these as a portable printer, I havent thought of where I would transport it to but this is my excuse for buying one and Im sticking to it!
I like these last two videos. The focus feels tight, and I'm doing that learning thing. I kinda want more
Excellent review. Audio is top-notch, bravo! I recently got the ender 2 pro instead of this and it performed well, nothing stood out as great. Will get one of these after my nephew gets the ender 2 pro. Thanks mate!
I have 6 of these running Klipper in my farm printing at 120-150mm with no issues. I love them!
I was just saying I didn't know anyone with a farm of them. Why did you choose them?
@@LostInTech3D I love small printers, so I have lots of them: Mini+, Voron V0.1s, V-Minion, and someone told me about it. I tried it out and was hooked. I bought 5 more and never looked back. The V6/Titan/Linear rails combo is extremely reliable and the KP3S puts it in an extremely cost effective package. They have paid for themselves many times over, and I'm making room for more. They print 80-90% of what I sell. I have Ender 3s (v2s and S1s) and Voron 350s for larger prints and prototyping.
Do you run multiple instances on one pi or do you have a pi for each?
@@2iinfiniteit's funny that you ask, as I'm working on using multiple printers with a Pi 4 (1:4 ratio) as we speak. I've been using Pi Zero 2s with each printer in 1:1 ratio but just ran out.
Are you only printing in PLA? people have said you cant print over 240 because of the plastic inside the hotend ... so I think that is one of the only drawbacks for me at this point... You also will want to add a mosfet to the heated build plate so that it isn't running off the power connector ... Ive read a few times that they shouldnt have ran the heated build plate through the connector because its not rated for higher amps
What an interesting tiny little capable printer! Love your flowery measuring tape.
Thank you! You certainly don't lose this tape measure easily! 😂👍
Great review, I think I'll pick one up to tinker with and for small prints!
Several of the makers at my makerspace have picked one up and love it. I've got a different printer coming soon but next time I have the funds, this is on my short list. It'll join my Prusa Mini and Voron 0.1 on the mini rack
I don't have one of these exactly, but I've had a prusa mini for a few months now, which has the exact same bed size. So far I have indeed found 180mm to be fine for what I do, or at least I haven't had a problem with it in the time that I've had it. Been especially helpful since my ender 3 v2 has been having all sorts of silly issues and been out of commission.
The hot part of the heat break in mine is the part with the PTFE lining. I have an all-metal on order.
I just got one of these, it was super cheap and I absolutely love it. The prints I have done so far have been pristine👍🇦🇺😊
The KP3S does not have an all metal hotbed, it is PTFE lined. I took it apart to upgrade to an all metal hotend.
I advise people to tear it down to check before they assume it does, it might or might not. It's not unlikely to change too. If it doesn't, they can swap it out pretty easily.
Nor is it a standard V6, it's got dimensions that don't match up.
What hotend did you switch to ?
@@thatonesnowboarde I got one from Amazon, it was really hard to find one that fit right because of the unique setup the KP3S has...
Very cool "little" printer (honestly though, a 180mm² bed with linear rails for less than $200 is quite remarkable), I'm particularly curious about the board, it seems they've left a healthy amount of connection points for things like bed sensors and filament detectors. I don't know if they have stock support for those addons or if the board is just what they had laying around, but I bet there's marlin or klipper builds that would make use of them. If I hadn't started out with an Ender3, and with the knowledge I have now, I'd say this would make a pretty decent first printer.
Hi, They actually sell bed sensors and laser attachments on their website for surprisingly cheap, The bed sensor is on sale rn for $15 USD (Usually $25)
This is cool, I really like it! I like the linear rails, direct drive and the price!! Z-hop is on automatically with mk3s profile, I still need test that setting with its ability to print fine details. I always debate in my head if I should turn it off. Great review as always man :)
Personally it annoys me just to watch the printer bobbing up and down so I turn it off for that reason alone 😂
I took apart mine and I found a separate (about 10mm long and thinner) PTFE tube up to the nozzle, so small amount of PETG at or below 230 to be safe.
I love these videos
I considered buying one based off the budget 3d printer overview spreadsheet made by christmas and some others over at the tronxy discord, it just looks so cute :p I still might get one, and specialise it for 0.15-0.4 nozzle printing, as currently my heavily modded ender 3 pro has a 0.4 nozzle (also do 0.6 sometimes), then my tronxy x5sa has a 0.8 nozzle (also use 1.0 sometimes), and then I'm still in the works on a tronxy xy-2 pro which hopefully will be my expensive material printer as I've slapped a chimera clone on there for dual extrusion. It's nice to have several machines with different use cases
Awesome video!
As someone who also started with the MIni Delta... This does look like 1000% better.
I have one of these. It is EXTREMELY loud out-of-the-box, the 30mm fans are incredibly distracting. Otherwise though, no major issues or glaring omissions which, for the price, makes it a great option. If you're looking for a very basic printer and don't mind the lack of quality-of-life features, it is a great way to go.
Reminds me of my MP Select Mini. Feel like that's a lot of weight to have cantilevered but as long as the rails are as good as they look it seems to be a solid little machine. Neat
It blows the select mini out of the water. Modding 2 of my select minis to be more like the kp3s.
I went from the Select Mini to a KP3S, and it's definitely superior in many respects. One area where it isn't is speed out of the box, the mini is noticeably faster using default Cura profiles.
I have one and have made many prints on it. I did find the flexible bed cover is not necessarily compatible with PETG, and as such, damaged ny original. I have purchased a replacement as well as generic replacement nozzles and use with no issues. I have also purchase a glass plate to attach to the top and love it. I have printed a mod for placing the spool at the top of the z-axis, which has been a great help. The roller stands it comes with may work for full rolls, but once they get down half way, they slide around a lot. I just noticed today the Kingroon now has a bltouch mod with firmware software. It will be interesting to see how well this works. Others have upgraded the firmware to Marlin with much success. I have not done this yet. Over all I really like this printer. It was my first and have considered purchasing a second when I get to a point that I have a lot ot items to print. BTW, I recommend using Cura vs the software that comes with the machine. Greater capabilities in Cura for fine tuning the prints.
I have a PEI sheet that I have to show in an as yet unmade video, seems like a good option for petg. I don't think a bltouch would be worth it for such a small bed.
Can you share the overhead spool holder stl for this printer?
0:45 I love that conversion rate
I've had this printer for over a year, and it is my workhorse. 2 things about this printer, if anyone is considering it. 1. Cura retraction, I find excellent results by placing retraction at 6.5mm @25mm/s (seems counter intuitive b/c its a direct drive) and 2. the heatbreak uses a non standard size PTFE liner. So if you go to order another one make sure the liner is included because it's difficult to find that size PTFE. Other than that I recommend this printer 10/10
6.5mm distance on DD? My 2 DD printers have like 0.8-1.0 retraction distance :p Also PTFE lined hotends.. they really seem so utterly pointless IMO. If you want the reliability of PLA printing, why not just have a bore style hotend where the PTFE goes all the way to the nozzle..? Not that I've ever had a clog yet with my TL clone V6 hotends that have all metal heatbreaks..
I see a lot of people who have issues with the ptfe -> nozzle setup leaking, this solves it I guess, but at the cost of more maintenance longer term when you have to change out the ptfe (basically new heatbreak time)
@@LostInTech3D Yeah, I guess. I used the stock setup on my ender 3 pro for a while (also put the stock extruder in DD with a short PTFE tube), and I seem to remember having a leak or two. but that was more likely me swapping nozzles out frequently, and then doing a sub-par job which then resulted in a gap, then a leak. that or the poor coupler quality moving the tube in and out during retractions, etc I now have a V6 on that ender 3, and a volcano on the x5sa, and so far I haven't had any issues at all. both are using BMG's, with the hotends attached directly to it. everything from trianglelabs, so they've definitely got my approval :p
I've got an ender 3 v2. Tinned wire and a case fan that isn't on all the time blew the bed heater fet.
You have to take the belt off the stepper motor in order to feel the linear rail otherwise you just feeling that stuff about her detent torque I thought I would clarify
I have 4 of them. 2 with current versions of Marlin and 2 stock. Have one that the board is doing some weird stuff, May try the MKS Tinybee board in it.
i have one of these and after upgreadeing the hotend (for a higher temp one) it is a verry nice alternativ to my prusa mini+, although you need to know less (bed leveling , tuning of profiles etc) for the prusa its less then half of the prusa so go for it if you want
Would be interesting to see a comparison between this printer, the Ender 2 pro (why pro, there was never a non-pro version?) and maybe even the prusa mini+ to compare quality/functions vs price. CHEP seems to prefer the Ender 2 over the kingroon
There was a non pro, but I think it's been erased from history because it wasn't the best looking printer! :D If I ever get an Ender 2 Pro I certainly will do a side by side, but for now CHEP is the only person who did that as far as I know!
@@LostInTech3D the Ender 2 Pro is a great little machine, and far more portable than the Kingroon because it has a built in PSU and filament spool holder. Print quality is excellent and it's even more affordable that the Kingroon. I got mine for £138 delivered from Creality (or at least their representative in the UK), but I found out just after I'd ordered it that I could have bought it for just £125 delivered instead! I won't lose any sleep over that £13 lol.
As already pointed out, there was an original Ender-2 - and just like the Ender-1 and Ender-4 it was ugly as sin and short-lived. (All have profiles in Creality Slicer, though. And most do in main branch Cura as well.) Anyway, what I came here to say is that if Creality were consistent in their naming, the Ender-2 Pro would be named Ender-2 V2 instead, as it's a prettified redesign (with a modern mainboard as they all have now) with none of the "pro" upgrades of their other Pro machines. Alas.
Tiny printer with tiny pi and tiny Klipper, sounds fitting.
That extra stepper driver slot, do I spy a cheap and easy dual filament possibility?
If it would've a all metal heatpipe it would be impressive, since I hate changing those. But it would need to be a copper coated one anyways to print PLA well. Also, if a company doesn't even know about it and only sends pictures then it's a bad sign.
I don't know if the topic is too trivial but I would be very interested in a video about how slicers deal with the measurements of STL-Files, for example what happens if I try to print a 1mm thick and 1.9mm high wall with a 0.4mm nozzle at 0.2mm layer height. Will the measurements just be rounded? Will the printer print thinner lines? How will the dimensional accuracy be affected? I often wonder while I'm desining parts to print.
I know what you mean, and yes, it's definitely an interesting idea to explore, I will write it down on the list.
I have two Ender 5 plus's and a Kingroon KP3S 3. The kingroon, now ive swapped the Hotend and Extruder for a real E3D Volcano and a Creality E-fit extruder prints 100% better than either of the Enders by a long way.
Absolutely want to see it with Klipper and printing PETG please
Both are going to happen 👍
oh this looks cool i want one
It is cool. You should get one. :)
@@LostInTech3D if i can ever afford it! 😅
the kp3 makes the ender 2 look like a toy yes its £30 more then the ender 2 but my god its worth every Penney I love my Kingroon KP3S 3.0
The printer looks great, however, I'm currently sending 2 Tonxy Crux 1's back. They printed great but, it wouldn't allow you to resume printing after a Cura programmed pause. I use multiple colors on small parts, these small printers are fantastic for that. I was told by a few people that the cheaper printers use a more "beginner style" firmware, meaning that they don't program advanced features into the printers. I didn't know that "pause & resume" was an advanced feature, it seems like it's relatively easy. Anyway, I'm trying so hard not to spend $500 on a Prusa Mini. However, I'm running out of options fast!!!
See my review of the sovol sv01 and sv06, both have really robust filament change functionality. Creality I think have finally worked it out on the s1 series but I haven't tested it. It's actually pretty standard marlin so I don't know why it's so hard!!
or with the separate power supply you can build an enclosure and keep it out side
I wonder how stable it actually is. If you turn it into a bowden setup and use klipper could you print at insane delta level speeds? The 200mm/s mini beast!
I have heard you can print at those speeds as is. Rest assured I'll be trying it 😂
@@LostInTech3D You should try out printing with a 0.2mm nozzle at like 200m/s (ok maybe slightly more reasonable) and tiny layer heights. Speedy mini miniature beast!
The original KP3 was Bowden.
I have one kp3s and after some settings necessary probably for a not perfect building of it, now I am happy with it. I need to know if you or anyone else have to give me a correct cura setting for pla + for eliminate the stringing problems. I use retrection speed 45mm and distance to 1 but I have always strings
try values up to 2mm, but really it might be you need to dry the filament
I have the v2 version (120€ a few month ago ) and the nozzle/heaterblock is an Mk8. So please check it before you buy new ones. I also put klipper on it.
gotcha, will do
Is the stl for the test print at 2:24 available anywhere?
have you the opportunity to put your hands into the new Kp3s pro versión? looks like they fix all the bad cons that the machine had in previous models, thanks in advance!
First I've heard of it! ah, nice, not sure about the glass bed but we'll see I guess. I suppose I will review it if offered, I like the KP3S.
@@LostInTech3D I hope you can do it, I noticed that they swap the linear cuide from Y to Z, add belt adjusters,, put the power supply Inside the machine and add the glass and maybe others things that I dont know I have pre order one but I need to wait until late september, I cant tell you how anxiety I have to get it jajajaj thanks in advance and I hope Kingroon sends one to you to review it! best regards from Memphis, TN, USA
Thank you for calling ferrules, ferrules for once. 😅
Yes, pls test Klipper.
Ah yes mm converted to imperial is cm 😂 sry but I had to comment on that 😂
Yes to klipper!
Lol thank you I would have never known 180 mm is 18 cm
How i find the Kingroon KP3S? , I make sure its put in the same place all the time :)
Ha.
ALMOND TREE ALMOND TREE ALMOND TREE!!!
Of all the axes to use linear rails on, why do they always pick x y? I would think Z would help lair lines the best and be the most noticeable.
I think that decision is about keeping the size down, more than quality, that's my guess
That was my thought. The main advantage that linear rails will have is rigidity, and on a cantilever machine the Z would be where you need that most. As to whether linear rails are even necessary in 3d printers, I'd say probably only if you are getting into very rapid printing where the additional rigidity will pay off, but I'd think by the point linear rails are really coming into their own, the belts will be letting you down, so should probably add ballscrews then too. And then it's just getting a bit ridiculous for a 3d printer.
The heatbreak is not standard and IS PTFE lined. The heatsink is non-standard v6 style with a v5 heatblock. The heatbreak is 6mm either end, not allowing a bowden tube within it, the v6 looking heatsink doesn't allow a bowden tube within it either and has a filament path with in it. (odd setup) You can however buy a regular v6 heatsink for a few pounds and use a regular 7mm-6mm heatbreak for better options. The clone titan extruder however is a cost reduced version that is better suited to a bowden setup, it does not have all four fixing points attach to the lid like the real version, this causes alignment issues. (so either binding or backlash, from both of my kingroon extruders) EDIT: if you change the heatbreak/ heatsink you can no longer use the v8 style nozzle as its too short ;) so get a few v6 nozzles as well.
Hi i want to ask, how noisy is this printer during print? Is possible to stay in one room with printer? Thanks
It's not too bad, makes some clicking sounds mostly
I was all in till I seen the price us 351.00 + wow , great review tho 👏 👌
Stock issues maybe, is that for a non base model
@@LostInTech3D base model on Amazon US. I was so sad 😞
Try their website
Does the wheel come with it or is it sold separately? I’m just now investing in 3D printers
The wheel?
@@LostInTech3D I’m sorry. It’s what sits on top of the machine. I think it’s called the filament?
How does this compare to the Elegoo Neptune 3 as they are about the same price for me.
Check my review for the Neptune 3 too 👍they are very different printers actually. Neptune is more hands off.
@@LostInTech3D i did :D, still cant decide but i am looking for a project so KP3s is probably what i want and am leaning towards.
What is it about 3d printer manufacturers and MicroSD cards? Do they not think that its about time they started to use something /just slightly/ easier to use to get your print files onto the printer? You know.. like..a USB flash drive? Are they still living in the 1990s?
😁 2024 here, we use usb flash drives now
👍
Is there any way to calibrate the extruder?
calibrate the extruder steps? yes absolutely - same way as any other marlin based printer. I can do a vid on it at some point but CHEP already has some.
@@LostInTech3D sorry, I'm still a layman on but you already gave me some help, I'll search, thank you very much
hop onto our discord if you are stuck
@@LostInTech3D tks a lot
what was the other test cube you are using ?
The twisted one? Link in the description 👍
@@LostInTech3D no the ghosting one
Oh. I designed it, I haven't released it yet.
@@LostInTech3D oh ok will you be releasing it ?
Looks like a Cetus.I liked my Cetus but its been replaced for a reason.
to be honest as a 3d printing beginner i think its good printer just dont print overnight unless you have a good filament holder
yeah I ran mine out of a dry box with a ptfe tube, worked a lot better
@9:09 "If you have one of these let everyone know how you find it" Are you really suggesting that it is so small that you could lose it? Is this what Lost In Tech, really means?
Hah
Isnt this the kp3l not the kp3s?
What?
@@LostInTech3D there are 2 versions
Well, it said S on the box. What's the l?
@@LostInTech3D figured it out. i guess a seller on amazon has the old direct drive and the new titan listed as different models. Ordered a kp3s directly from kingroon. Thanks for your time and patience
Klipper, klipper, klipper!
Fine. If I hear it three times I have to do it.
yes do it
Beatlejuice, Beatlejuice.... yes Klipper!
Nice video, it answered a few questions I had on this printer. I still don't fully get why people are buying these for print farms. I am not at that point, but, if you are mainly doing smaller parts I can see the appeal cost-wise.
I'm not sure either, I hadn't heard about that until nero said it. I don't really know anyone with print farms. Certainly not professional ones, they would be using business machines.
@@LostInTech3D I think 3 channels I regularly view use Kingroon mainly, one having 20+ of these with other larger machines (400mm+) in their farm. Compared the price to a Prusa mini, I can see their appeal, 2 for 1 basically.
Need a banana for scale 😂
I'm allergic to bananas! 😒 I only found this out last year.
@@LostInTech3D Ok, then a cold drink can. Iron Bru, Tango, Lilt, or something equally British-isles.
Lol, this printer is better then my V-Core 3.1 for first layers...
the messages hidden in the captions give me a lot of entertainment. I did not get seasick
I have to disagree about the v-wheel vs linear rail comment, there is too much to go wrong with v-wheels, they are not a precise movement mechanism and follow any defect in the extrusion (which in itself is not a precise extrusion in most cases).
I'm self sourcing a v-minion but I'm kind of feeling like I should have just gotten one of these. 🤦
I dunno, I'm getting round to the idea of building my own printer, there's definitely some fun to be had there. Depends if you want "fun" or not 😂
@@LostInTech3D No doubt, I do like putting things together. I learned the hard way even though the ratrigs are "open source" they're kind of hard to source some of the parts. Then the amount of money I've spent, although cheaper than shipping a Ratrig kit to the US, is still about 3x more than the KP3S. Is it 3x better? Who knows.
Thumbnail K3PS
180mm converted to imperial is 18cm? Hah!
With coupons I’m getting mine for $140
Got to good of a discount I guess because they canceled my order
180mm converted to impreaial is 18cm? lmfao im going to be giggling about that one for a while
Imperial is inches not centimetres, 180x180mm = 7"x7" if you must use freedom units.
nice pfp
Yeah, it was sarcasm lol
I'm not sure if you are joking about imperial measurements or not. If you are it's very subtle if your not you're wrong.
It was a joke.
cm is still metric, imperial would be inches... 180 mm is about 7 inches
😉
Klipper it to hell and back!
My particular unit had poor quality linear rails, they're super notchy feeling You can see artifacts on the print caused by the linear rail. You should have talked about the stepper motors as well there 1.8 and they're pretty notchy as well and are pretty bad on VFA. Also at the PTFE goes all the way to the bottom. It's also questionable they didn't put the linear rail on the Z because it would make the most difference on the cantilever because of the stiffness increase.
Knock off linear rails are a hit or miss situation. Sometimes they're just fine, other times the carriage grinds on the railing. In 90% if the cases, it can be solved with a disassembly, cleanup and proper bearing lubrication. 1.8° on the steppers isn't an issue. They run at 16 microsteps anyway. Linear rails are great motion systems, but they're not all-rounders. They're very sensitive to the direction of the load applied, meaning it should come orthogonally from the main or lateral faces of the carriage (wherr the threads are predisposed). That's due to how the bearing are placed in respect of the rail. If they used linears instead of wheel on Z, they would have needed to get two pairs of railing on both sides. Wheels are just fine for a Z axis, and still better than a single rail.
I think also, if the linear rail is bad, I would imagine it's a 30 minute job to swap it out. I have a spare linear rail kicking around already, I think they are about £10 or so to replace. So, kind of like part cooling fans, semi disposable, whether we like the idea is another matter. And yes - all steppers are 1.8. This reminds me, I'm supposed to be planning the next video :)
Why do printer manufacturers think it's OK to put a bed Y axis on a single, flimsy, rail? In their heads, do 3D prints have no mass? Cantilever designs need to be suffiently engineered in the X and Z axes to prevent wobble so why not spend a few pennies extra in beefing-up the Y axis too?
It seems like it works though, but this is a machine built to a cost 😂
The rail is mounted to a piece of bent metal that adds plenty of stiffness.
That is not 150mm/s. sorry to break your bubble