How To Install A 240V Outlet In Garage - EV Car Charger, Welder, And Electric Range (Hubbell 14 50)
In this video, I show you how to install a 240 volt outlet in a garage. This 240 volt outlet is also known as the 220 volt outlet for charging an EV car charger, welder, or even an electric range oven. A EV charger requires a 14 50 for a 50 amp outlet. I compare the Hubble 14-50 vs the Leviton 14 50 outlet. #electrical #tesla #diy
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Timestamps
Intro 00:00
NEMA Outlets Explained 00:28
240 Volt Supplies 04:14
6/3 Wire Rough In 06:53
Metal Electrical Box Installation 08:13
NEMA 14-50 Outlet Options 11:10
240V Outlet Installation 14:45
Connecting 6/3 Wire To Panel 21:04
50 AMP Breaker Installation 24:37
240V EV Car Charging 27:38
Disclaimer: This video is all based on my personal opinion and is for entertainment purposes ONLY. I am not a financial advisor, CPA, attorney, tax advisor, electrician, plumber, housing contractor, designer, or any type of profession to give advice. I am just a consumer sharing my experiences and research. If you do need knowledge for those types of things, I will advise you to seek help for those professionals.
Hey! I covered A LOT of information in this video, so I placed timestamps below to help you navigate this video. Also, you can join the channel using this link kzhead.info/tools/UJXaEduMHGB3Iap3DusmAA.htmljoin . We would love to have you as member! NEMA Outlets Explained 00:28 240 Volt Supplies 04:14 6/3 Wire Rough In 06:53 Metal Electrical Box Installation 08:13 NEMA 14-50 Outlet Options 11:10 240V Outlet Installation 14:45 Connecting 6/3 Wire To Panel 21:04 50 AMP Breaker Installation 24:37 240V EV Car Charging 27:38
Which one is needed for split air heat pump that says it needs 220V? Eg LG?
Can I use a 2/0 2/0 2/0 wire to run a range or stove
Where is the Ground Fault protection ?
I really appreciate how thorough you describe each step. Your a great instructor. Just what I needed. Shalom
I think this was the clearest, well explained video I've ever seen on KZhead. Keep it up. Thanks!
I just want to caution everyone that using NM cable for this circuit limits you to the 60 degree column for Ampacity (NEC 334.80), that's 55A here. Furthermore, maximum current based on a continuous load should be no more than 40A's on this circuit since 125% x 40 = 50A. Therefore, never plug a 48A smart charger into this receptacle as some homeowners down the road may do and perhaps label the receptacle to say 40A MAX if you are going to use these 32A mobile charging cords. Note: even if you use 6AWG THHN rated at 90 degrees, your receptacle can only be used for less than 50 Amps. For me personally, I don't even install receptacles anymore for EV's, as they were just never designed for these high and continuous loads over periods of 8 hours or more. Also consider the constant unplugging and plugging in at the receptacle; your terminals will be lose in no time with a chance for arcing and a fire very high. Buy a hardwired smart charger instead and have it installed by a licensed and insured professional!
"Also consider the constant unplugging and plugging in at the receptacle" Good guidance however this part wouldn't happen as the charger would get plugged into the outlet and left there. No different than a dryer or other appliance.
The ev chargers are 240 volt, no neutral necessary. They also are required to be gfci protected
Nice job. In reference to the outlet placement for stoves, I recommend reviewing the stove install instructions. There is normally a diagram for the placement for the outlet. I really enjoy your channel.
On that ground wire I usually bend it in a u-shaped so there's more surface, and that 75 inch pounds. Which calculates into 6 foot pounds.
Excellent step by step explanations and instructions. Thank you!
You make great videos man, highly informative and easy to understand. Greatly appreciate you doing the work and teaching the rest of us. Keep up the great work bro 👍🏻
Great video. One of the best I've seen. Just call it 240v. In 38 years I've never measured 110v or 220v. All voltage is nominal from the power company, but they have been supplying higher voltages for my entire life
A VERY CLEAR demonstration video! Good job! The only omission, however, is that the 2-pole breaker MUST be a GFCI-type breaker per NEC® 210.8(A)(2) and 625.22. Any personnel protection against ground faults internal to the EVSE protects SOLELY the EVSE OUTPUT CORD to the EV but NOT the EVSE INPUT CORD from the NEMA 14-50R receptacle to the EVSE. (Technically that GFCI-type breaker would eliminate the need for refund GFCI protection integral to the EVSE UNLESS the EVSE performs power conversion [nearly all DO NOT convert]). - Brian Rock, Hubbell Incorporated, I also serve as a CMP-2 and a CMP-15 Member but this is strictly my own position (not NEMA’s and not NFPA’s) I also am one of the 7 co-authors of the original (1996) NEC® Article 625 for Electrical Power Research Institute (EPRI).
Brian, I'm in the middle of wiring my detached garage right now, and am having some trouble figuring this one out. It seems that the manufacturer specifies NOT to use a GFCI outlet for an EVSE 40 amp charger (50 amp breaker), and that the EVSE has GFCI built in. That said, I note your comment above regarding input/output. My issue here is that these chargers are known to trip a GFCI outlet or breaker, much like a tredmill does. What is the work around here in order to have a reliable appliance and meet code? My charger is corded - specifically a JuiceBox Pro 40 model and I id wire it into a external waterproof housing containing the NEMA 14-50. For that matter - any recommendation for wiring in a treadmill in a detached garage as well? I plan to dedicate an outlet for this and wiring it straight to the panel on a non-GFCI/AFCI breaker. Any suggestions?
Another video where you show what an excellent instructor you are Jost. Lots of detail, clear explanations but yet you keep it moving. I will say that in the elec business a 50A range outlet is x dollars but if you say it''s for an EV it always seems to be 2x dollars lol. Good explanation of why an industrial grade plug is worth the extra money. Thanks for sharing your skills and knowledge!
I’ll give him credit for that. It’s worth the extra money for quality plugs.
Man thank you!! This was very informative and helpful! Exactly what I needed!! 💯
The yinzer accent is pristine. Feels like home. 😉 Excellent video, man.
your videos are so well done and informational. Keep up the great job!
Your videos are always helpful. Thank you very much!
Fantastic! You are very welcome. I appreciate you watching my videos!
Great video u literally walked thru every step very helpful
You explained everything so well. Excellent video.
I'm by no means an electrician, but have Don electrical work and taught by some great electricians. I was always taught when tightening wires against a box to route the wire in the same direction the wire tightens. That way the screw doesn't push the wire out, it draws it in. Use wire strippers not knives especially razor blades. When tightening lugs, tighten, back of, tighten, back off then torque. Also anytime adding new wire to a panel to kill main power. The person who taught me had a saying. The day you get complacent is the day you will get hurt or killed.
" I was always taught when tightening wires against a box to route the wire in the same direction the wire tightens" - When the wire is completely looped IE: out of cable, around screw, then into receptacle... it doesn't matter. Looping clockwise only matters on an open ended (cut) "hook" loop of wire.
or get the proper PPE, tho turning off breaker is cheaper.
Great job. Appreciate the overview and detail
Dude you just saved/made me thousands of dollars you are the MAN.
Awesome! I’m glad I can help. Good luck with the rest of your projects!
Good for you for grounding the outlet box. Too many KZhead experts fail to do that.
I always ground my metal boxes. Thanks!
Yes, but he ran the wirec ounterclockwise around the screw. Much more likely to work loose.
Thank you for sharing. Getting ready to install 14-30 generator inlet and process will be similar.
You are welcome! Oh yeah, definitely similar. Good luck with your project!
Excellent presentation by the Excellent Laborer!
Thank you so much! I’ll try to make all of my videos, helpful and useful. I appreciate you watching.
Your description should had said how to Install a 120/240 EV Charging circuit. In most units the neutral Is not needed but good to have for future use.
Great stuff as always!! Thanks brother 🤙
Thanks a lot for tuning into the new video! You are welcome. Take care!
Awesome and detailed video as always Josh. Thanks a lot. Was going through your kitchen cabinets video recently and have a question. What is their material ? (MDF/Plywood/Chipboard/Solid wood etc.)
Excellent. Thank you for lending your genius.
Josh, excellent descriptive YT video on installing a 50 amp outlet for a EV charger. I would let the viewers know that the 6 nomenclature on the 6-3 wire stands for the AWG or gauge of wire needed to withstand the 50 amp current draw.
Thanks a lot, Dan! I did explain what AWG was in my last video. You’re right, I would have not heard to mention it again. Thanks for watching!
13:30 Like you said not all NEMA 14-50 outlets are the same, I would add that the duty cycle of an EV charger can be drawing 50 amps continuously where a standard range outlet was designed to handle the intermittent duty cycle of a range.
Yes, good point! The long term continuous draw justifies having an industrial grade outlet versus a range outlet. Thanks for your input!
I installed mine the same way with the same receptical concerns. I also under sized my load to 40 amps because I was concerned about heat created by impedence with such a continuous draw over a 2-3 hour period. I used romex 6/3 due to electrical code but I think that other cables may be better at heat dissipation.
thanks for the awesome video , very thorough and simple!!!!
Also, if you have side cutters or really your strippers, you can score the romex and rip it without damaging the wires, you get a much cleaner look in your panel. Strip your wires before going into the panel.
Excellent video instruction of how to rough-in and install a 240 v outlet. This was extremely thorough and very concise. I feel confident that I could now undertake this work on my own. The only two questions I still have are; 1). What size mudring should be used depending on the thickness of the drywall? and 2). Why not use a two gang box to eliminate the need for the mudring? I think part of the answer is what you said about the mudring providing more room in the ox. I get that there is only one device and not two switches or outlets that would require a two gang box but the two gang has the four ears or tabs you'd need to secure the device to the box. Is this just a preference thing or is there another reason for this? These are sincere questions. I'm not being critical. I know enough to be dangerous and just like to have all of the information before undertaking work. Either way, I'm going to follow your lead thinking that if it's good for your house... then, it's good for mine. I'm asking in the event you respond before I've started / completed the work. Thanks in advance and all the best to you. Keep up the good work. 👍
Nice explanation. Thanks I just learned, how to wire a 240..
Thx. 29:49 was very helpful with all the supplies needed. No sure of the length of the 6'3 wire that I need
I have watched A LOT of these tutorials and done A TON of research into the actual code provisions pertaining to 240V receptacle installs. This is the first video I can point to that is essentially mistake and code violation free. The only exception being GFCI protection, but we all understand why you didn't go that route, hahaha. Awesome job! Will be my go to video to share with others looking for good info.
I always try to make my videos as accurate as possible. I’m glad you enjoyed this installation. Thanks for watching!
Your wrong about the "mistake free" content here.
@@BTW... Point out the mistake then or your comment is completely worthless.
Clearly it is more than just meeting code. See my post on the use of the knife to strip the wires.
@@deang5622 I'm not going to go through the entire comments section to find your specific post. If your biggest issue with this video is how he strips off the wire sheathing, I rest my case. You'd be friggin' amazed to see how many electricians do it. 99% of DIY people watching this video are not going to have Romex strippers. This is one of the best and most complete videos on the topic for sure. You can find something wrong with anything if you try hard enough. Nobody is going to have every single piece of information perfect and give every piece of advice possible.
Great Video and information . Thank you for sharing
Exactly what I needed to know. Thanks!
Excellent I’m glad the video was helpful for you! Thanks for watching!
Just to be clear, Torque specs are in inch pounds not foot lbs. Also, it's best practice to use a proper wire stripper instead of a razor blade, that way you won't risk nicking the conductor with the razor blade.
As an Automotive Technician I noticed that mistake too. Inch pounds and Foot pounds are two different tightening specifications.
Newton-meters, too. And in my industry (aviation), there are approved wire strippers that must be used to avoid the likelihood of a violation. I'm surprised how many youtube experts use what would be unapproved tools to strip and crimp wires. Those tools are not excessively expensive, and with them it's almost impossible to harm the wiring or make a connection that is subject to loosening and arcing/catching fire. . .if it's good for a Boeing it's great for my house and vehicle.
I'm now gonna like this video because it was detailed and informative
Thanks Josh another great video. Just want to know if you have the link for the torque screwdriver? 👍
Recent code revisions require GFCI outdoor or in garages above 20A but that is only for branch circuits (welder, range, EV charger) but it is not allowed on feeder circuits (RV outlet--anything with a subpanel). The same 14-50P could be either.
Great Video new subscriber from San Diego
Awesome installation covers everything
Thank you for your knowledge. I wish I could worK with you and learn all you know.
You are welcome. I’m glad you’re finding my content helpful. I make videos on everything I do DIY. If you watch my videos, you’ll learn most of everything I know. Stay tuned for more!
I thought the video was well done. You were precise and step by step. Sure, you always wrap a wire the way the screw screws in and I usually use a wire stripper in stead of a utility knife to strip the casing but still a well done video. Thanks.
Production quality on your videos, your instruction, your concise communication and your overall knowledge are all very impressive. I'm going for a career change at 32, and have been watching all of your electrical videos ahead of getting an apprenticeship. Thanks a ton for these
Don’t wrap your ground counter-clockwise like he did in this video. If you watch closely as he tightens the ground screw it pushes the wire out of the screw. ALWAYS go clockwise when you wrap your wires. This goes for receptacles, and literally everything you wire.
Very true, I was about to say something about that as well.
Yep.... one of the first things pointed out to me when first learning to wire recepticles
If you noticed, it's a loop, not a hook. Therefore, it's "wrapped" in both directions. Even if he wrapped it the other way to make the loop, it would be the same U shape around the ground screw. Think about the physics. What he did is just fine. The only difference is which side of the loop gets wound tighter and which side gets loosened slightly. You could argue it's slightly better to have the length going to the receptacle tighter because it's going to get moved around, but in practice it will likely have the same impact either way.
Or use the pre-made ground tail and "pigtail" your grounds together
@@802Garage Bullshit. As the faster tightens it naturally unwinds the loop. Any movement has the wire detach.The terminal is of such poor design, having no means of restraining wire moving from under the fastener. Every trade qualified professional electrician knows this... yet you think it's all A-OK.
Excellent video and explanations. Technically you installed a 120/240 volt outlet. For those that do not want to spend $90 for the receptacle, Bryant (owned by Hubbell) same exact device is approximately half price. Why cheaper? If Hubbell can get named in the specifications for a large project, then higher profit. They bought Bridgeport out in 1991 which makes the Bryant devices. Never use cheap receptacles for car chargers. They overheat.
they did not buy bridgeport. bryant was located in bpt ct
Muchas gracias siempre veo tus videos.saludos from Norwalk california.
Thanks God bless outstanding work.Bottom line.
Thanks for the great video @theexcellentlaborer In my main panel there is only ONE bar, don’t have separate for ground and neutral. Can I connect both the wires on this single bar at random empty space? Please guide. Thanks
Great information video. I notice 1 mistake and that was you installed the 3/4 cable clamp backward. The screws for the clamp has to be inside the box. This is because incase in future they need to get more wire inside box on a finished wall they can loosen the screws and pull some wire inside the box.
Wrong. Two screw connectors should have the screws on outside of the box. Don't think inspectors like your way. With NMB cable stapled within 12" of a box next to impossible to pull in more wire.
@@JohnThomas-lq5qp lol please dont make things up out of the blue. This has nothing to do with the inspector, this is about the design engineering and proper function. First of all it doesnt matter what inspector likes or doesnt like. As per code, a cable must be secured to the box by the method the manufacturer of device/fastener has specified. 2nd of all, USUALLY (but not a requirement), a GOOD electrician will leave a slack of wire in the form of S between the box and the staple. A house lives for 100 years and during this time if someone mess up wires when connecting the devices, they'd have the option to pull in some slack into the box. A good example of this is the plastic push-in connectors for NMD wires where you can pull wires into box but not out. 2nd example is the regular NMD respectable boxes with the screw inside the box to secure the cable.
Did you ever have a job inspected? The inspector or AHJ has the final say. With 12/2 costing what a $1 a foot a little over a year ago no electrician will install stupid money wasting S bends for cables entering a box. The NEC mandates a support within 12" of boxes feed with NMB cable so that makes it very difficult to make a S bend and provide the 12" support. Metal box manufacturers never supplied type of connector to be used in their boxes. There are over a quarter Millon words in the NEC and hundreds of exceptions to all of the articles and like I have been told at the over 100 continuing education classes that I attended to renew my electrical license is if you ask 3 inspectors you might get 4 answers. The few times that I objected to an hick prima Donna only inspector in a little town that attempted to write me up for code violations I won out. Best was after my inspector passed a job local hick tried to I give me a violation for making a single splice on a 14 gauge wire inside if a circuit breaker panel. After I gave him the NEC article that allows it told me that he would let me get away with it that time. After many years still learning.
@@JohnThomas-lq5qp I do agree with you... with the copper prices after Covid no one is doing that S thing anymore. I learned that when I was a kid doing construction jobs here and there. But we do electrical cabinets for manufacturing segments. Complying with residential codes is child's play compare to industrial codes and regulations. I personally done 2 full basements and 3 house renovations jobs so far... maybe I was lucky I haven't had a jerk for a inspector... and yes like you said there been time when the inspector has said "you can't do this" and I told him yes I can and here's what the code says and then he would ok ok fine but I wouldnt do it like that... and moved on to the next item... inspectors just verify your are up to the code and if your are then it doesn't matter what he personally feels about your job.
What led me to this video was out of frustration in fitting a 14-50 receptacle in a 2-gang box. Usually a 4-11/16 box is used like the oven. But I wanted to minimize the drywall damage in the already finished garage and the fact that the receptacle bag said use a 2-gang box. Now when I was trying to wire 6/3 cable to it and intall it, the receptacle plate bent. So I wanted to see how others do this 😅. Anyways I cut the wires much shorter and pre bent wires and that still was hard to install but it went in fine.
Your videos are amazing, awesome content.
Thank you so much! I appreciate all my subscribers as well. Take care!
Thank you for the great video! I just have a concern about the Leviton 14-50 Plug used. I keep seeing vidoes of how bad of a plug it is and it causes fires. A lot of folks including Tesla is saying to use Hubbel or a Bryant Plugs instead. I just wanted to get you thoughts on it.
Super great video. Thanks a lot.
Excellent job on this video!
Excellent video. Would you mind sharing which torque screwdriver you used in this video? I did not see it mentioned in the list of tools used in this video. Thank you. Also, did you really torque the screws to 75 in-lbs?
Thank you! I’m not sure the exact brand of the screwdriver because I borrowed it from a friend for this install. I had the dial pass 70 to get the torque which should be around 75 lbs. I hope that helps!
Great video! Thanks for sharing 😊
You are welcome. Thanks for watching!
GREAT VIDEO! THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!
Thank you for the video. Can you provide the link to the cover at 5:38 what will work on the Hubbell 14-50 Outlet?
Thank You. very helpful.
You are welcome. Thanks for watching!
Thank you Fantastic video.
Don't forget follow local NEC codes where gfci and arcfault protection may be required
I was tought too wrap wires clockwise around screws so they stayed tight and didn't spread out. It just works better. Torque is rated in inch or foot pounds. The wire screws are tightened too INCH pounds.
Great job 👍👍 thank you 👍
You are very welcome.I appreciate the compliment!
Good job. Love the video. how did you estimate the length of the run so good. You had a drawing to work from or you just use a tape measure and guestimate?
Thanks! I’m glad you love the video. I use a 100 foot tape and then run it where the wire will be installed. I simply just use that measurement to buy the length of wire. I hope that helps!
Thanks for the response. @@TheExcellentLaborer
Don't bypass your NEC requirements for new 220 install requirements like GFCI/arc fault per 218.8,210.12
Thanks for your channel
Hey, thanks for the shoutout ⚡We make home charging simple and easy for every EV!
Very well explained
Thank you, Greg!
Nice explanation
I'm your code expert recently retired 25 year's of service 60,000 inspections under my belt
Great job.
Great video, I've learned a lot and it's information what needs to be done, but I won't do it. I'm thinking of buying an EV, but how do I assess If I can install another 240 volt outlet? For me, to call for a electrical assessment it will cost about $300. I live near San Francisco. So how do I assess my electrical box?
Really important to overstate that you should only use Hubbell or Bryant receptacles for EV charging. If your main use is EV charging and/or a welder, a 6-50 will be cheaper to wire. And if you're running conduit, could allow you to downsize or fit more circuits in there. Also, I think a lot of states have adopted the 2020 code now which requires all receptacles to have GFCI. And depending on the brand, holy are they expensive. Why I went with Siemens stuff, their 2-pole GFCI breakers are usually quite a bit cheaper. That and they're readily available at Menards/HD/Lowes.
2020 code does not require all recpt to be gfci protected
Most of these new 220 outlets require gfci and maybe afci protection per nec
I'm seeing pretty much all you advising electrical outlet wiring with out basic requirements
Great video just wondering how much an electrician must charge for a job like this
Great! Much thanks.
I have a wood lathe that runs on 220v. I have moved it to a better location in shop, unfortunately the power cable will not reach it now. The lathe now is 6fr from the existing outlet. Can I daisy chain from the existing location to the new receptacle or home run from power panel. I never run any of my 220v machines at the same time. I would appreciate your thought, and I am a new subscriber…. Enjoy your excellent videos
Thank you!
You are welcome!
The outlet you installed is self grounding, you can see the strip of metal going from the ground terminal to the face plate, so you don't need to connect the ground wire to the grounding screw of the box. That connection is created automatically when the outlet is attached to the box.
Given the Voltage and Amperage at play, even if it isn't a code violation, HIGHLY recommended you ground the receptacle as well as of course the box as required by code.
@@802Garage The box and outlet are already grounded when installed since it's self grounding, which is the shortest path to ground. Adding extra wire does nothing.
@@JRP3 No, the box is not grounded unless the EGC is bonded to the box, which is absolutely required by code unless the box is grounded by EMT conduit grounded at the supply panel. Read NEC 250.148 please. It is also against code to ground the box with the receptacle even if the receptacle has an EGC connected and is self-grounding. This would violate the ground continuity rule. As for doing nothing to bond both, the primary reasons to do so are increased ground capacity, which increases the chances of a circuit breaker trip if there ever is a ground fault, it keeps the receptacle grounded even when removed from the box in case power was accidentally not shut off or there was another wiring fault, it is a more reliable connection than the self-grounding connection in general in terms of clamping force, total area of connection, direct path to ground,orand inability to move, and that leads to the last point which is over time the receptacle could loosen from the box which will decrease the self-grounding contact or eliminate it entirely and it also leaves room for error during install where someone may not tighten the self-grounding receptacle all the way when they are trying to get a tidy flush fit. Bonding the box and the receptacle is common practice for added safety and there is essentially no downside since the required grounding wire is already present and long enough to be used. It also makes sense to use and leave the ground in tact in case a different piece of equipment is later installed in the box which does require a ground.
@@JRP3 Bullshit - What happens when the lid is lifted? Ground is disconnected, you idiot. So you think a metal strip held by cove plate fasteners (that can come loose or thread strip) is a low impedance path from the Ground terminal of the socket to ground/Earth?
For a range, it is probably better to install under 8 inches to accommodate for standard or short drawer space -- that is the space behind the drawer that provides space for the plug. You might want to face the ground towards left or right -- some cords have the ground up and some have the ground down, and you want the loop to slide back in easy.
Nice job hard worker
Thank you for the nice compliment!
@@TheExcellentLaborer your welcome your nice guy
I believe there have been problems using cheap stove outlets for EV charging. Generally the stove outlets weren't built to handle that high of voltage for 5,6,7, 8-12 hours at a time like an EV does. It would be similar to all burners on high and stove on boiler all night every night. A stove would rarely be used at that voltage and never for longer than a few minutes before being turned down if it was .
You don’t know what you are talking about they are the same size metals inside and have to be or would never pass UL listings and the voltage is the same it’s the current/amperage that sizes everything when it comes to wire gauge other than industrial commercial wire rated to 600volt and higher
Excellent.
I appreciate that!
I was disappointed that the torque screw driver was not listed in this video or on you Amazon parts page.
Thanks!
I appreciate the support!
❤it man u are a LIFE SAVER.JYST BOUGHT A HSE AND MAN THEY DUD A $,U AND AVE SAVED ME THOUSANDS. AND YES MY POPS INSPECTOR....COOL BROTHER U KEEP TEACHING ME.THAN KG S AGAIN. ❤IT
I want to run one of these 6/3 14-50 plugs outside for an RV Do I use Metal conduit or Plastic?
Hello Josh, I'm an Italian Electrician moving to Canada soon, and I have been following your videos to start learning how North American circuits are made. I have a question, while doing my researches, I saw that there are 2P (Dual Pole) AFCI and 2P GFCI breakers, but I didn't saw 2P DFCI breakers... I was wondering if 2P DFCI breakers are a thing or if they only make 1P DFCI breakers.
I have installed several of the DFCI breakers in my sub panel video. They are dual function. Meaning they are AFCI and GFCI protected. I hope that helps!
@@TheExcellentLaborer Thanks for the reply. But my curiousity was if there are DFCI breakers for 240V circuits or just for 120V circuits. For example, lets say you wanna add DFCI protection to the 240V circuit you made in the video, can you use a double-pole 240V DFCI breaker, or you gotta use a double pole 240V AFCI and a 240V GFCI receptacle?
Our code doesn’t require them for 240v circuits. Arc fault breakers don’t play well AT ALL on shared neutrals. So 240 or multi branch circuits are out. Honestly we have basically moved away from multi-branch circuits. They’re dangerous and honestly is the little bit of money you save on sharing that neutral really worth it?
@@Alessandro7432 To my knowledge there is no such thing as a 240 volt GFCI receptacle. GFCI and AFCI receptacles and DFCI are only made in 120 volt, 15 and 20 amp varieties. And circuit with ampacity greater than 20 requires the breaker to provide the GFCI protection.
625.54 Ground-Fault Circuit-Interrupter Protection for Personnel. In addition to the requirements in 210.8, all receptacles installed for the connection of electric vehicle charging shall have ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection for personnel.
I followed the example precisely, testing the outlet with a multimeter revealed 110 volts on both neutral/ground and hot (black or red) independently, and 240 volts across. However, when I plugged in my Tesla mobile connector, it initially seems to receive electricity, but then displays a red 'T'. Any idea what I might be doing wrong
Thank you for the explenation but I will get an electricent rader go safe 😑 from Québec Canada
If I want to put in an oven and a dryer those have to be 2 separate 240 V circuits correct?
I would install the 14-50 with the round earth ground down. The EVSE provided with the Chevrolet Bolt has the round pin down, so the cable hangs down when plugged in. Otherwise, I would need a shelf above the outlet, because the cable would point up, rather than dangle down. The cable between the plug and the EVSE box is only~12 inches, making it difficult, if it can't just hang down.
Depends on the vehicle, Tesla EVSE has the ground pin on top.
For EV supply equipment, direct wire is the way to go. Much less possibility of the equipment melting down vs the cord and plug method. Also, you would avoid an unnecessary expense of the outlet. The cheap leviton outlets are fine for a range, but are a legit fire hazard on EVSE. The wire used for direct wire will save some $$ as well. EVSE use 2 wire with ground and don’t require a neutral. I do like how this installer used a torque screwdriver. Properly torquing the terminals are important for every install (just look at manufacturers instructions), but especially when there is a significant current draw.
Is the metallic faceplate grounded simply when connected to the Hubbel Nema 14-50 receptacle? Or does the faceplate need to be grounded separately?
Did some digging to try to make sure I answer accurately. Yes the faceplate is required to be grounded, of course, but yes the mounting screws should be considered sufficient by code to be a proper bond to ground. It's generally not very specific about this, perhaps because it seems obvious, but there is specific code pertaining to medical facilities which permits this, at the least. The faceplate is grounded by the receptacle which of course must be grounded. The receptacle is also touching the box which must be grounded even if the receptacle is removed. The faceplate is grounded both by physical to any metal components, but most importantly by the screws.
good job I like it I want to become a teacher like you
Regarding the 6-3 wire’s ground wire which was wrapped around the green screw & screwed against the two gang box via that same green screw: this is the same ground wire that’s then run into the outlet, right? Just curious Thank you
Yes, the wire going to the green screw continues to the outlet. I hope that helps!
@@TheExcellentLaborer indeed. Much obliged 🎩
Is it code to use the 6/3 exposed on surface mount?