Finally Using This Cool Woodworking Tool, the Blocking Knife
Blocking Knife, an old school wood working tool for carving and roughing out wood. A common use of the block knife was shaping wooden shoes and shoe soles for clogs. The tools to compare to would be a hatchets and drawknives. It is better at some things than those, but not others. This prototype was interesting and promising.
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Signs of a crafstman: "yea, I was cooking and my tools were dirty, so I just made a couple more..." LOL
"Advoko Makes" forged a terrific blocking knife as you call it, with two separate methods of securing the front in one tool. Pretty cool. Good inspiration.
Kuksa and bowl carvers use these to shape wood when it's a bit finicky for a hatchet. Good for getting accurate radius curves on cups or wooden shoes.
Man, I love your hand tool videos. Your cinematic aesthetic, attention to detail, and your no-nonsense approach to primitive skills is inimitable. I'm big on giving credit where credit is due, and I can honestly say if you hadn't introduced me to Dudley Cook and taught us how to grind and use an axe effectively, I would still be confidently dangerous with an axe--having grown up splitting, ignorantly believing that that would translate to chopping. It certainly helped, but boy was I wrong. Thanks for taking the time and energy to make and post these videos.
Thanks buddy :)
Ive been meaning to make one since advoko makes put out a video on them
I saw that but haven't watched it yet. Great channel.
I would recommend, unless you've seen them already, watching a video from Advoko Makes on making and using this tool, also a demonstration from Spoonfest, I think Advoko especially talks very in depth about his design considerations.
I was going to recommend the same one.
thanks, I will watch that if I make another one. I did see it was out there. His channel is great.
So great to see another tool video from you Stephen, they've been greatly missed. Want to thank you for the time and expertise you put into them, I always walk away having learned something new. Two years I stumbled onto your channel and at that time had one old camp axe. Bitten by the bug, I now have a collection of over 100 axes, draw knifes, froes, slicks, augers, and adzes which are used regularly, and I teach axemanship to scouts and scouters. I owe this new found love of vintage edged tools to you, thank you!
Awesome! Spread the love there. some don't like these long talkative videos, but I think following work along and talking about techniuques and the decision making process if very valuable for people that dont' just want to be entertained. Most people don't know how to do a basic cord serving for instance.
@@SkillCult I guess it comes down to whether you're looking to be entertained or actually learn something. It's hard to teach a skill that's evolved over hundreds of years in 30 seconds 😉
I was a version of this used to carve soft wood to shape wooden shoes.
I hear you regularly say that it would be useful if the hook was higher, yet you also like having it really close to the block. What if you make a stepped block? There's enough play in the eye to move the blade left and right, so if you keep the eye where it is, and just cut away a portion of the chopping block so that you can position your object lower to cut the higher portions, I think you could enjoy both the low and the high position without actually having to reposition the blade. And you can just cut various depths/levels according to your needs...
Interesting idea for sure. I feel like I've seen that actually, but not sure. How about a circular block, or a half circle, and you have different levels like a spiral staircase?
@@SkillCult yes, that's what I was picturing... (the half circle) The step would probably be 2/3 of the useful working range of the knife (so if p.e. you were now able to cut 12" high, the step would be 8" - just gutfeeling it) so you'd probably only need 3 levels, because much higher would mean that you're handling very large objects, at which point you're probably better off using a draw knife bench (I possibly mean what I saw somebody call a shaving horse) I think this would be something that grows when doing a specialized, repetitive task with this tool. Chop away bits from the block to fit the need, and end up with a couple of custom steps tailored to the specific job you're doing with it.
I don't have a shaving horse. I'll make one when I have a place to keep it out of the weather.@@lukearts2954
@@SkillCult ah yes, that's a very smart strategy :)) (and a very familiar issue as well haha)
Bevel is topside for tent pegs and underside for UK clog soles as one has to make concave cuts for those. The Dutch knives are much more slender as the Klompen wood is generally softer and the style doesn't need such a heavy blade. One could use a peg knife for Klompen and vice versa but neither are rigid enough or have the underside bevel needed for UK clog soles. The UK clog knives are much heavier and longer with the handle offset and leading the blade in order to pull the blade through. If just for rough clog blocking the Carter knives had even more handle lead to optimise for a very specific and narrow use. I've only ever touched two of those. Carter had a monopoly of clog knives in the UK." Henry Carter's Celebrated Clog Knives" as the catalogues said , though in truth Joseph and Richard also made them. My favourite Blocker is a Joseph
Where I have seen a blocking knife used are where controlled, precise cuts close to the end of a piece of wood that is cross grain or steep into or against the grain where a drawknife/hatchet/spokeshave wouldn't be ideal. An example that I have seen would be for the toe and heel of wooden shoes. Very interesting. Thanks
I love all Of your content, but the videos like this are my favorite. Thanks Steven :)
I made one of these for alder clog making in Olympia, Wa. I think I cut shelf's out of the stump at different heights
A lesson on leverage for sure
You could also use a marlin spike hitch with that screwdriver to pull through the end of the lashing.
I'll look it up.
First time seeing this tool and I really like the concept. It would be great seeing it tuned just right. I love it!!
Y'know, I was just binging your tanning videos, and I haven't worked with thick bark, I usually peel saplings. At most I chip 1/4 inch bark off of firewood and by the time I've filled a pot my arm is unhappy. When I saw you cut up all that bark into crumbles and slices with a hatchet, my thought was "Ooh, a good place for a block knife"
In 45 years of cruising antique shops, have run across a few of those tools a couple time. If that end hook was a full circle and you ran a tight fitting Rod through the hole. Had the rod anchored on both ends to the work plate -maybe have adjustments for height. It might perform better
I think it is best to just start over now that I have more information to glean.
@@SkillCult it’s a viable tool concept for sure👍 another cool informative video
So awesome! Thank you for all the techniques you shared here. Truck leaf springs are valuable, esp the old ones for good 👍🏼metal. When you were reinforcing the handle with the twine, I was reminded of working at a parachute plant where we had to make French twist knots on each one whew! similar technique.
I've saved leaf springs for years. quite a pile now :)
😄future tools!
Hope ya do a follow up on this subject. Real nice blacksmithing!👍
We'll see. Kind of low on the priority list at this point. I can do a lot better, I banged that out pretty quick Ideally wouldn't have those folds in the handle.
Looks like the next steps are more eye hooks, bolts, or staples to anchor from, and reducing slop between the hook and the anchor.
For sure those, but also the crosswise handle. I think I just need to start over and study more of them now that I can.
@@SkillCult the proliferation of information these days is as fantastic as it is daunting. Good luck when you make your next attempt!
@@SkillCult kzhead.info/sun/qcawdc98iKlnnGw/bejne.htmlsi=zfhxpeDCos1T2KYe it looks like InsiderBusiness just released a short video on a traditional clog-maker four days ago, and seeing how he used his palmis/clogger is incredible.
Another great informative video.
I’ve seen something similar used for carving the exterior profiles of bowls.
Makes sense, the main use is for wooden shoes and soles, which is very slimilar blocking out work.
From our pov it looks like the eye bolts whats messin you up. And the handle geometere, as you said. And, what if.... you put your eye bolt pivot about 8" from the edge and have steps cut into the face of the block. But as you said rough out with the hatchet and fine tune with that.
Very interesting video. The shaving technique was really satisfying. Just the sound of it makes you want to have a go at it. I look forward to future improvements if you find the time to continue this project.
I should bust out my good mic and make an asmr vid.
Perfect or not, that is really cool. Nice work.
You could make a nice tight heavy duty eye hook thing for it which can spin/rotate, and then cut (or build) a few steps into your working log/bench so that you can spin around a little, and step down longer pieces of work to work on different sections of the workpiece, within the optimal stroke of the tool. I suspect longer higher eye bolts will negatively Impact the mechanical advantage the tool has through flex/deflection and potentially make it more fatiguing (one of my main concerns these days😅). Looks like a really cool tool I’d like to experiment with. There is some silly facebook add about a wall mounted simple kindling splitter that is quite similar to this basic concept-I really want to build one.
I think those are solid ideas, but I'll be starting over if I revisit this tool. Too much wrong with this one to really modify it.
the french version of this tool, the paroir, has a far longer blade and when combined with a longer block or bench you can make those higher cuts without loosing the ability to do the most powerful cuts down near the hook. They also use a spring inside the eye to get rid of the slop. The construction is a lot like a euro scythe blade, the blade is surprisingly thin with a long taper to the bevel but the spine is much much thicker and almost seems bent 90 degrees out of plane for strength. I think they are meant for green wood primarily the wood your using seems like it's at least somewhat seasoned? Really cool family of tools though, i'd like to try the gouge types for bowl carving.
okay, actually finished the video now. i'd say definitely check out paroirs which seem much more common (including on ebay) than the engish stock/block/peg knives before making a second prototype. I haven;t actually seen all these variations in person but the french tool has much more elegant and sophisticated geometries. On green wood at least these can make chunkier cuts than a hatchet and with far more control, crunching through end grain. here's a good demo by Jane Mickelborough: kzhead.info/sun/mNmOn7Gqg5usp4E/bejne.html
Sounds great. I will be looking at a lot of designs before making another one, now that I have that option. I did see a video with that style of knife. It looked like it maybe had the scoop you see on scythe blades for strength as you say. The wood is pretty green actually. it is maple.
I can see it when it’s much sharper it’ll be able to do some nice, long finishing cuts relatively mindless. A dedicated sharping session or chisel grind I think it’ll be good to go. Rough out some shapes then use that to refine could be fairly quick.
The most important things are design. It could be sharper, but it wouldn't really make the difference on this iteration. Needs to go back to the forge.
What!? ,,, You got yourself a cat?! How unexpected, and also, cute little hairball.
One wandered in and adopted me a while ago. that is her kitten, off to a new home soon.
@@SkillCult That's so wholesome,,, you always seemed like you'd do well with a critter in your life, so it makes sense the critters entered your life
I had a go with a blocking knife at a clog makers on Anglesey in Wales (UK) ~30yrs ago, it was ~5ft long, the hook was ~5/8" dia with the saddle of the U shaped hook level/below the cutting edge, the handle came off the blade at ~30degrees down below the cutting edge ending in a T as you remarked, the eye on the block was a swivel eye. I think the advantage over a hatchet is the control you have of the blade during the cut, especially across the grain, I'm pretty sure the blade bevel was at the back (opposite side you had it) using the bevel as you would a chisel to lever off, more of a scooping action as you'd use a draw knife for controlled cuts. Now I'm pondering what happened to my clogs, not seen them for ~20yrs lol
thanks. there is a video of a guy making clog soles that shows a similar tool. My bevel is way too wide to use against the work, but he explained it has to be against the work to make concave cuts. Makes sense. wow, 5 feet, that's monstrous.
I've heard them called clogger's knlves. I know I have seen a video recorded in the Netherlands of a traditional clog maker using one. Cool tool: it looks like it could remove digits with ease, though.
I didn't feel too unsafe using it, but maybe I just dont' know yet lol.
kzhead.info/sun/dKepgatti6Oah3k/bejne.html
I saw You struggeling to steer the knife etc. in the link you see the old Dutch craft of making woden shoes by hand in the Soutern Province Brabant from the Netherlands...its Dutch spoken but translate and Your prowess in woodworking will suffice. Greetings from the Netherlands!
thanks, at some point I will watch all of those if I'm ready to build another one. No doubt the crosswise handle and taking the slop out of the pivot will make a huge difference.
I really loved the video Steven, I'm more into your hand tool/edged tool videos. I use a draw knife for handles etc. This tool really looks fantastic, even in its primitive form here it works. A few tweaks and adjustments would make it really shine. Apple looks tasty to, Ive been trying to grow blood oranges which is tricky, they need like sun, frosts and humidity. Probably why their mainly only grown well in a couple if regions. Great to see u in the feed.
I should have mentioned draw knives as a similar roughing tool. both this and drawknives are optional tools though. Hatchets are essential. that is why I'm always encouraging people to start at the bottom with a hatchet and a kninfe, and then move up. red apples have the same issues as some other red pigmented fruits where the red pigment development is related to temperature.
If the pivot eye is at blade edge level, you may find the torque effect is reduced at your handle. I suppose you could drill a hole in the prototype to prove that. Just a random thought from the internet...
that seems to be how they are usually made. the hook tang comes out, then drops all the way down to the blade edge. in a U shape. I'll certainly make it that way next time and find out. Great observation! I think you are right.
Nice. Here in the northeast of France you can buy these on most secondhand market for 5-10 euros. Generally the cutting blade is almost over the full length. A lot of people used to make their iwn wooden shoes in our region it seems.
I found a wooden shoe video from 1968 in French at 3:00 you see it in action (the version you see here) kzhead.info/sun/bNOGfZuQiHx8hKM/bejne.htmlfeature=shared
wow, that is cool. It is not a tool you ever see here in America. I'll check that video out. I've seen a few.
Blocking knives I've seen have a blade much longer. Cool video 🙂
Some have very short blades and even gouges for doing the inside of shoes. but the average seems to be scaled up from this in all dimensions, long, wide, heavy...
It's a long way from log to spatula.
I made one with two different eye heights. Another tack is to have multiple base heights for the wood. See Torbjorn Ahman's video , "kindling splitter". An elegant solution that wouldn't have occured to me.
Cool, thanks. We were talking about a half circle with differnt step heights might be cool.
This tool was especially used to make shoe lasts and wooden clogs! It is designed to work in medium-sized pieces and to do curvilineal and cross-grain cuts. Definitely not so useful in straightening long pieces.
I hope with some modifications, it will be more useful for that kind of work, we'll see. It may not end up being the best choice, but it might be okay. It is certainly an optional tool for me. A hatchet is not.
I think you're on to something there. It just needs refinement. Edit: As a quick, temporary fix, you might try shoving a couple pieces of cardboard into the eye-hook, which I think will wedge itself in there and stay relatively tight but still allow it to move.
there is a french style that has a spring which takes up the extra slack. Neat idea. probably something like a U joint might be ideal, but maybe an over-solution.
Advoko MAKES has a video on this tool, he calls it a “cloggers knife” looks like it could be very useful.
Great videos. Thank you for your hard work and sharing your knowledge. If your eye bolt was completely round, instead of flat on the top, that could help stabilize the the lateral position of the hook on the knife and give you more control of the pitch of the blade. I made a block knife a few years ago (not 25 years though) and I mine has been sitting around just like yours was. I hope I can get around to using it soon. Good luck on your refining process. I hope to see your improved design.
100%. I just didnt' have a round eye hook handy and too lazy to look harder lol. That alone though would have made a considerable difference.
Hey steven, just wanted to let you know ive been following you for a long time and i am now my village tanner. Im working 8 deer hides a beaver a cougar and a sheep skin rn trying out different methods.
that's great! I'm always happy to see leather workers take up tanning.
Stock knives are amazing. I've wanted to try one since I've seen them. They definitely have some interesting designs that are different than this. What I've learned about hook knives and leverage from the twca cam defintely makes sense with your rounded handle. When you put you hand at the end of a long lever you have a lot potential for rotational force. So it makes sense you feel more comfortable choking up on this design. The T shaped handles seem like an improvement but I haven't used either so It's just a guess. I wonder if you could raise up the mount point to make using it up higher easier. Out of all the demonstrations I've seen I haven't seen that though. Very cool that you made this yourself and hilarious that you didn't try it until a child became an adult. End grain can be very difficult to work with so I also think this is a good option to try that with. It functions like a push knife (straight handled draw knife). Which is good for endgrain. I think where this would really come in is with something bigger like a laddle or a type of bowl. Makes sense that clog makers use stock knives since they have a lot of engrain to work on.
Good observations
Looks like just a longer blade in general.. about as long as the work piece would be good in the next one...mayb a slight curve to the blade to for more slicing action
That's an awesome tool, even if still in R&D phase.
Seems a stair step of different height eyes that you could quickly jump to would sort out all but the wrist strain.
Maybe. also, a much tighter eye/hook configuration. It is still going to have limits I think. working inside curves might be an issue.
I think for the spatula and similar things, I will stick with a shaving horse and draw knife, but that looks like it could be very useful for chunky things that won't fit in it. I think it might be a better tool for refining the form than roughing it in.
You may be right. I'd like to get it working better before making that call. The most common use seems to be blocking out shoe soles, but they are short and stubby. They rip off huge amounts of wood though.
Nifty gadget! Did look easier with the axe, but like you said, when dialed in, that could be very handy. How about having the eye above steps, rather than only the level of the stump? For example, half of the surface you work on, is lowered, so you can reach the other end by simply moving the piece down on step (and get the reach you lacked)
a couple of other people suggested that too. I'd have to just try it and see.
كيف حالك أيها الأمريكي ماذا هل غيبه متابعك من بلاد عربيه تحيه جميلة وحلوه إلى حضرتك 🥀🍒
I had another idea about this tool last night: Could it perhaps be useful to cut up thick branches for planting cuttings? The thought I have, would be to attach a really long handle (like 6ft or more) for high leverage and then cut willow branches 1-4" thick in one go. But then I was wondering how to transfer the force into the support, because with such a large branch to cut and such a long lever, I'd probably pull out any kind of eye or hinge that is attached straight into the block. It's just wild thoughts, I know. It's probably easier to just take a good sharp hatchet to them and cut them in 3 swings (or less)...
It might. I feel like there is a tool like that for willow already that is some kind of big shear. I'm almost sure of it.
@@SkillCult very likely =) The thing is: whenever I watch your videos, I learn something new and then my random brain goes and recombines that new piece of information with everything that's already in there, and then I just can't resist sharing some of the things it results into... They are all abstract thoughts and guesses. I like to comment and interact because it helps your channel in the algorithm. But the real hidden compliment is: your videos stimulate my brain. And I appreciate that very much =)
@@lukearts2954 My brain is pretty much like that too. I'm sure some of "my" ideas are conglomerates with stuff I've picked up somewhere else.
I always thought that tool would be more useful for cutting end grain since you need more force to exert in cutting it. "Advarko makes" has a channel where he also makes one of those from scratch, some Ukrainian guy but he's a smart guy.
His channel is cool. I haven't watched that one yet.
Cloggers tool.
Remake and compare please!
We'll see. So much other stuff to do. maybe if I have some real shop space when I move.
Here's a video showing how a clog maker in the Netherlands uses the tool. Interesting how he has different height adjustments from the bench and how he uses his axe vs blocking knife: kzhead.info/sun/qcawdc98iKlnnGw/bejne.htmlfeature=shared
Here’s another video of such a knife in action - here making a pair of clogs: m.kzhead.info/sun/n95xgJuuh2ueqGg/bejne.html
Can you make a video on leather work and practical applications on that feal like their are a lot of latherworking videos but amost on video on practical stuf fore exampel knife sheets feal like meny make art or show peases not ril practical holsters
I'm not a very good leather worker honestly. I'm more of a tanner. I can make stuff, but...
Це якщо немае станку...😊
Seein' another youtuber over kzhead.info/sun/fadqYbWQfH2fgX0/bejne.html here they're working the piece on the edge of their work surface instead of the middle, which seems like it might help with the reach problem you're having. Cool piece of kit!
This reminds me of a blocking knife I've seen in a video from years ago, and it definitely seems that having a larger bevel, and a tighter clearance around the hook makes the tool more efficient to use. kzhead.info/sun/g5yyg8yBinmQfq8/bejne.html
Certainly.