Chris Knight - Learning Exposure and Light Meter Basics
2024 ж. 4 Ақп.
28 543 Рет қаралды
Chris Knight teaches using a light meter to measure flash, continuous light and a combination of both constant and strobe lighting with the Sekonic L-858D light meter. This 45-minute video is a full course in measuring light from a master portrait photographer.
Watch Part 2: • Video
Learn More:
Sekonic L-858D-U - bit.ly/47O4Kij
Good explanation of how to measure, treat and manage continuous and strobe lights! Cheers Chris.
This video was eye-opening. I learned so much. I have been following Chris's work for a while, and I love the art he creates.
Precision to the highest degree! At a point where the talent was stunned that he looks that good! Chris Knight is a magician, and for a reason! I got to know Chris when my wife gifted me Chris Knight "The Dramatic Portrait" book. Highly recommend. They even have a video series on this (couple of hours of course is uploaded on KZhead for free, the full course can be purchased from his webiste). Incredible stuff! Just got my Sekonic L-478DR lightmeter. Excited!
You got so many great stuff, I highly appreciate your teaching. Please keep sharing.
Loved this course…I don’t use a light meter but now I am considering it since I finally understand how to use it thanks to Chris’s teaching.
We're so glad you found what you needed in the video!
Great video with a great instructor!
That was very interesting and useful! Thank you! ❤
Such an informative, inspiring video! Thank you
Love my sekonic L-858d meter and as always wonderful insight, delivery and artistic vision from Chris...
Chris Knight, Master of methodical approach and adjusting for small differences. Those are some awesome photographs at the end, wow.
A real gem, thanks.
This was super helpful! I enjoyed the insight about the histogram and using the grey card...and demonstrating with the a strobe AND continuous light was an absolute treat. Thank you!
I like the models expressions while Chris was talking. 😊
Well done Chris! A pleasure creating this with you.
Wow. What a course! It really resonated with me. Thank you, Chris and Sekonic.
Fantastic Tutorial, thank you ✌️. I always need reminding that the strobe only lives within 125th of a second, so the slower shutter speeds don't affect it 🤯💡.
Maybe the most helpful video I have seen , so many great information
I agree!
I bought a Sekonic Light meter after taking Chris Knight's Dramatic Lighting for Portiturue course.
thank you Chris, that's how i learned it at our photo school in the seventies, i'm using a sekonic 308 ever since, now using a lot of times a 478, beautiful meters
I love my meter!
I have two Sekonic light meters. I clearly need to start using them more! :)
for 500 bucks a pop i can not for the life of me figure out why you havent! I am starting a business and would like one but i can not afford it at this moment as money is tight, I'll take one off your hands! xD
Absolutely love using a light meter. I don't understand the hate behind them. Faster more consistent results. What more can one ask for?
Great job! Having gotten Part. 1 out of the way I’m looking forward to seeing Part 2, ie High Speed Sync and other exposure techniques.
great video, but one thing the shutter speed does affect in flash, is the spread of the light, if the slit in a curtain shutter (slr's ) is too small, aka a too fast speed, the short burst of light only scans the sensor, so is an ever shortening band of light in the middle or upper/lower third of the image; leaf shutters ALWAYS open fully so you don't get this problem. But from what people say (KZhead), the shutter speed does allow in ambient, non flash light, so if you just want flash, you set this so no ambient is captured; then the iso takes over, in determining brightness of the scene.
Really need this
Cameras don't only average exposure information. Cameras evaluate the light of a scene depending on what metering mode you select. If you select matrix metering the camera will average out the entire scene. If you select spot metering the camera will only give you a representative light value reading for that spot, which normally only cover a 5% to 1% area where the spot is located. Also the reason why his shots were underexposed slightly even after taking a meter reason is that most lens's aperture readings are not completely accurate. It varies from lens to lens but more often than not your lens often around 1/3rd a stop off (and can vary, depending on the lens). So if you think you are getting F2.8 you are really getting f3.2 or to be more specific T3.2. To solve this issue you would need to use exposure compensation in the meter. Complicated stuff if you're not familiar with it and when the guy in the video is not being 100% clear.
I understand this is a studio and he can add fill flash on the other side so he can measure both flashes and put it in the middle, but if you're outside and have high contrast situations, shouldn't you measure toward the camera to get in the middle of dark and light side of face as if you measure toward the sun other side will be underexposed?
correction: cameras have reflective light metering - not incident as stated a couple of times in the video.
You’re no Lindsay Adler 😂😂. Just teasing. Great video, very informative
Lindsay Adler and Chris are a couple in the real life !
@@jean-claudemuller3199 I know. That’s why I made the comment with the laughing 😂 emoji
Dear @Sekonic Team, Thank you for all of your Videos. But why is the Myth about the 18% grey still valid? I am using the L-858 (love it sooo much!!) and for Spotmetering in the Specs is written for Spot: K = 12,5 which means Spot is calibrated for 12,5% Grey. This is 1/2 Stop Difference to 18% grey. The Incident Methode is calibrated by Light, C=340 with extended and C=250 with retracted Lumisphere. 18% Grey is not the middle of the Histogram. 50% grey is the middle with Tonevalue 128/128/128. Why not stop and break the Myth about 18% Grey Calibration?? 😊
Chris you look like Davey Havok :)
Amazing, well done.
Qiuck question, probably to you Seconic people - I'm having this situation, where the measurements are giving me underexposed photos, no metter what system I'm using. Had this issue with Nikon DSLR, now I'm having same thing with Sony mirrorless. It's usually -0,5 to -0,7. Am I doing something wrong? I'm using L-508. Thanks :-) To Chris - it's interesting to watch, how gradually you go from explaining technical stuff to focusing on the photo itself. It seems you get drawn to photography, and less and less think about technical aspects ;-)
Do you position the meter with the dome facing the light source? That is correct. Don't aim to the camera. Next, verify your meter's accuracy using an 18% gray card. The peak of the 18% patch should align precisely in the middle of the histogram. If you find that your shots are still underexposed, consider calibrating the light meter specifically for your equipment.
You can contact customer support and have you meter sent in for calibration. To know if it is user error we would need to see how you are meter, what the lighting situation is.
Reading the comments so many of these gurus take nice photos but give a lot of wrong information.
Oops, cameras typically have reflective light meters.
The light falloff is not exponetiell as mentioned. It is quadratic only. double distance => one quarter of light. 4 times nearer, 16 times more light. On a logarithmic scale +1 stop is doubling the light.
Repass your math… 😉
You are not right as the photographer controls mostly light falloff with the edge vignetting of the modifier, distance falloff is seldom used alone and sometime as a mix, so math is not able to assess the falloff, only feeling of the photographer
Years ago I made a chart for speed lights and posted it online, which got quite a buzz. It was a guide that works off these principles you bring up, allows the photographer to look at the distance he has his light setup and choose a power setting..it goes something like this. At 32’ Full power, 16’ 1/2 power, 8’ 1/4 power, 4’ 1/16power, 2’ 1/64 power, 1’ 1/256 power ..full disclaimer those distances and power outputs might be off, but could be figured out. Those are perfect exposures, if one needs darker or brighter just move the light distance (easy) or change the power output at the current distance. I haven’t done this with studio lights but your comment reminded me i should make a chart for these as well. Those in the reply’s to your comment show they don’t know how to use lights properly, if a subject is at both 2’ and 4’ away from the light source it will be brighter at 2 and darker at 4, just as if the light is at 16’ and the subject is 16’ and 18’ away from the light it will be more evenly lit because math always works.
@@jean-claudemuller3199 Of course, all additional effect have to be added. But the "inverse square law" is always there.
@@therealBocaStudios Can you provide those charts?
Sorry my photographic friend, you don't need a grey card behind a flash meter with the 18% dome facing the light source.
Gray Card can be used as a sanity check when viewing histogram and in post for White Balance Adjustment for that specific lighting setup.
@@rzorrilla52 Yes, but only if you capture a photo from that position. ;) I agree with @mibophoto. However, it's possible that he did so out-of-habit to shield the eyes of the model from the bright light, especially if he always uses a flash in his photography.
Chris is using the 18% as a known value so when looking at the picture he is taking of the model holding up the 18% grey card you can see he is getting a correct exposure. The grey card is not part of his metering technique, but a tool to show where a properly exposed 18% grey will appear on the histogram.
Sorry my photographic friend, but he never said or suggest that you need it. Comprehension problems 😂
@@Roman_4x5 It is naturally confusing for people watching this video. Chris consistently places the gray card behind the meter when he takes a measurement. That's not necessary and seems more like a habit as I mentioned earlier. Photographing a gray card can be useful if you want an extra check to see if you've made a correct measurement, but that shouldn't be necessary with this meter.
really sorry but this is one of the most boring videos that I have ever watched....a lot of talk and mistakes!
just beautiful learned a lot @chrisknightphoto .
It was painful to listen to the explanation. If you used, every time, the actual f numbers, you would not get lost in illustrating your point.