The Quartz Crisis: The (Almost) End of the Watch Industry
2024 ж. 20 Мам.
653 933 Рет қаралды
We have been keeping track of time for as long as we can remember. Although our phones make wristwatches look like sundials, there's still a thriving market and place in our society for the ol' wrist tickers.
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Fun fact - if you go down a rabbit hole about any subject that fascinates you there is an 85% chance you'll find Simon Whistler explaining it on one of his 72 channels.
And he and his team are KICKASS content creators!! I wonder just how many people they have working to create SO MANY at such great quality level??! OG BOSS LEVEL STUFF
I suspect he's been cloned and it's a different one on each channel.
He is a developer of the simulation we are in
Brought to you by Clash of Clans
This whole comment thread is a ride and I’m glad I was on it 😂😂😂
Back in the late 1980s I bought a jar of buttons to use for sewing at the local thrift store. In this jar, along with the buttons, was a Seiko watch without a band. I bought a band for it and wore it for years. About 10 years ago I needed a new watchband, so I took it to the gentleman who repaired watches at the jewelry store in the local mall, and I told him the story behind the watch. He showed me some new Seiko watches, and one identical to mine with a fancier watch band was over $500. I paid $2 for the jar of buttons, so I think I got a good deal.
thats so funny! now that was a good purchase! I hope the buttons were useful too atleast!
That's a story and watch to give your kids haha congrats
Buy more buttons; you might find a band for it.
It's all about the band.
@@Diwasho She's getting the band back together.
My great grandfather Louis Essen helped pioneer the development of the Quartz oscillator. He later went on to develop the worlds first viable atomic clock and produce the most accurate measurement of the speed of light at the time. He received an OBE for his work and in some circles is considered the father of modern time. Fun fact! during the war he was involved with some of the work at Bletchley Park and used to go running with Alan Turing
That is an amazing family story!
RIP Greatest! "I Miss" Y'all, YA"ALL!!!!!
Ironically, the same Swiss brands whose aficionados look down on Seiko as a brand and Quartz movements in general, were technology innovators in their infancy. While they haven't come out with any notable fresh ideas outside of adding more complications or increasing power reserve for decades, Seiko followed up Quartz with the Spring Drive, arguably the most accurate automatic calibre ever made. It took an obsessed man several decades to perfect this, so definitely worth its own video. Grand Seiko is now starting to get the recognition it deserves, in between luxury brands who merely try to preserve their status through artificially induced scarcity (grey market).
I have a Seiko solar that connects to the atomic clock, and it's one of my favorite watches. It's just stunning to think how it does that. Connects to a radio frequency and boom. That's a watch I rarely wear, but it's definitely a factor for my timepieces now. Like I see many fancy watches and go, "But Seiko has this feature" while Rolex, last I read, still doesn't have shock absorbent material and always get knocked off time.
Longines have created a 36,000 beats a minute movement that is accurate to -2/+2 seconds a day and is a LOT cheaper than the Seiko Spring Drive.
@@LS1056 So what? Longines have a VHP ultra accurate quartz movement that is accurate to 5 seconds a YEAR and does not rely on unreliable radio links to the atomic clocks. Put that in your pipe and smoke it!
@@tancreddehauteville764 but Grand Seiko have more hand finishing. longines might be a hi beat movement but still nothing compared spiring drive... maybe breguet 10hz movement or bulova Accutron can compete with that but second hand glide on a Grand Seiko is mesmerising. Spring drive is at least 1 second per day accuracy.
@@LS1056 atomic clocks get their signal via radio frequency, not GPS. if it required GPS, watches would be a wee bit larger.
I have to say Simon & Co., as someone who knows watches intimately, having been a watch collector for years and being deeply interested in all things horology, this is one of the best researched and laid out videos from a non-watch channel that I have ever seen. And I say that also as an owner of several watches that you mention here (Seiko, Zelos, Rolex via Tudor and Citizen). Fantastic job, this video is as accurate as a Grand Seiko 9F quartz movement.
I'm miffed by the exclusion of Waltham watches. Ball's all well and good, but Waltham is awesome.
Nice GS reference. Considering I’ve just put a deposit down on the new SBGP017 with the 9F85 movement (+- 5 seconds a year)
@@MyMarsham That watch is a STUNNER holy crap GS nailed it with that one. The blued GS logo at 12 just does it for me, congrats, that is a killer watch! That was IMO the best recent GS release, I really liked the SBGK017 too but not nearly as much as the SBGP017. Its awesome they used that movement b/c it should be a bit thinner. I had a chance at a SBGV245 last week for $2400 but I have my watch funds tied up at the moment waiting on 'the call' so I let it go. Probably a big mistake. Congrats again, beautiful piece.
@@Nefville Thank you for the response. I was actually putting money away for the SBGV245, but the blue cloud came up and I was on the phone to my local (well, Sydney) GS boutique the day after I saw the photos. Already got old Snowflake and SBGM021. If “the call” is from a particular brand we all know, I hope it’s soon for you.
I have 3 Rolex Datejust along the years. I love automatic watches but everyone knows quartz are the best timekeepers. Why haven't gold Rolex oysterquartz have never took off is beyond me. They are beautiful, keep great time a d were limited production. All the things that make collection of great watches. Why do you think this is ? Neal
Working in the watch industry I have to say that a well made, historically and technically correct video like this one is a rare gem to find! Most other people that try to do this loose themselves in common cliches and halftruth. Thumbs up for Simon!
It's actually mostly wrong...
@@ilanpi This! There are A LOT of errors in this video.
@@rsr789 Please detail these errors.
@@romanmichaelhamilton8729 I've detailed the mistakes in a commednt, let me cite it: -No, Seiko didn't invent the quartz oscilators. They were based on tuning fork oscillators, created first during the 20s, but in quite a large size. -A group of swiss companies, including Omega and Longines were also developing quartz movement prototypes along with Seiko. What Seiko did was to present their watches a few months earlier, and having a more elegant design - stepper motor instead of tunning fork motor. Just a few moths later the presented Beta 21 movement watches were just as good, only downside was the lower battery life due to the sweeping seconds hand. -As an owner of Bulova 214 Spaceview - also a series of half-thruths. The tuning fork movement was designed by Max Hetzel, a swiss engeener working for Bulova. Elgin had nothing to do with it. The first watches were sold from 1960. And to state they weren't revolutionary is wrong - they were far more accurate than mechanical movements, for up to 2 sec/ day. The 214 movements were used in railroads (RailRoad Approved series), as a standart equipment on A-12 and SR-71 (Accutron Astronaut), as on timing clocks on US sattelites and on Air Force 1. There is even a rumour that the government delayed the production versions, so that the soviets wouldn't copy them , which they did after all with Slava Transistor. And no, the hum is quite quiet, only heard in a very silent room. -You refer to traditional brands as "luxury", but before 1972 they weren't. The watches were used mainly as a tool, and that why we have so many different complications - divers with rotating bezel, chronographs to measure time increments precisely, GMT to have two time zones at once. The quartz watches turned out to be better tools, that's why some brands turned to luxury status for their products. One of the first such watches were the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, The Patek Phillipe Nautilus and Vacheron Constantin Overseas.
Well researched and presented. Simon is the best on KZhead.
This is one of the only times I have ever felt emotional about watches. This is a required video for anyone who is in any way interested in watches. Also, PLEASE DO A VIDEO ABOUT THE SPRING DRIVE!
Great video, Simon! I am an avid watch collector, and own many quartz and mechanical watches. They all have their own appeal and uses. I am kind of surprised there was no mention of Citizen's Eco-drive movements, though, as that was quite the quartz innovation. Radio and GPS controlled watches that sync to the atomic clock have brought a whole new level of accuracy to watches, as well.
Not to mention that Eco-Drive movements are the first solar powered movements which are capable of being charged by a single desklamp, not just by the natural light of the Sun.
And the Citizen Promaster Aqualand diver in 1985 often overshadowed by the Seiko Arnie
Not to mention the lovely old Orient stuff.
Quartz is one of the most fascinating crystals on earth. The fact that it is piezoelectric is a wonder in itself.
A Certs can start MAP gas.
It's still amazes me that *_quartz_* is basically *_transparent rock._*
There are quite a few other piezo-electric crystals out there, too. They are well worth exploring.
I was wondering when you'd get to this. As a horophile, I find this fascinating. I own both quartz and automatics. Quartz are undeniably more accurate and convenient, but automatic mechanical movements still hold a special place in my heart
Same, automatic watches just have a special flair and i love it
Can't go wrong with Invicta Seiko movement.
@@patricklynch9574 a lot of people have had good luck with Invicta.. unfortunately I'm not one of them. I've had 3. 2, one of the hands popped off. On the 3rd the holes in the lugs were drilled crooked and it would not keep spring bars in. I've given them a fair shake, but I'm not going to buy another Invicta.
I also have a automatic because of that reason but when you think about it it's silly because a quartz is just way better for way less money but I would still take a automatic over a quartz every time
@@not-a-raccoon I like that you can buy 1000 $ 85 watches for the price of one mechanical Rolex. I wish they had harder pins. I replace the pins on mine twice.
I'm a watch and seiko enthusiast and this was unbelievably well researched. I would love a deep dive into the spring drive movement as I"m sure there's a fascinating story there with one man obsessively trying to create it for decades only to pass away right before his dream was realized.
As a watch collector and reviewer I can say with absolute certainty that this the best and most concise summary of the watch industry I’ve seen on KZhead. From the railways, WW1, quartz crisis so many areas are touched on! As always great vid Simon
Well he did get the prominence of Switzerland wrong, he said they were THE country for watch making for two centuries before World War 1, but they actually just made cheap knockoffs of English and French watches (like China does with Swiss watches currently) until after the railroad boom in the second half of the 1800s.
And prior to railroad watches, in the 18th century, marine chronometers (used for navigation) were an essential part of the development of the modern mechanical wrist watch.
Yet no mention of Timex, the brand that (besides Rolex) is likely the only brand most people will recognize, with Seiko a far away second, and Casio considered that company that makes calculators and shitty keyboard instruments
Simon's writers are always spot on.
My personal favorite wristwatch that I've ever owned (and still do) is a 1990's vintage Timex Automatic (self-winding). I used to set the time every 30 days but for the last 20 years I haven't NEEDED to adjust it. It has been solidly within 30 seconds of "official time" by the National Atomic Clock for over 2 decades. My most expensive repair, replacing the crystal over the face almost 25 years ago.
whats the reserve on it? that is fantastic. I have an old Timex that is on point too. It used to be my grandfather's and he always said how much he liked that watch
You sir might just be a Unicorn. Cheers
@@JoeKyser It will run about a day and a half if I just leave it on my dresser, so I don't do that since then I'd have to reset it. It's annoying enough to have to do that twice a year anyway.
@@michiganengineer8621 nice, oh I get it lol. Watches are funny. I see people dog watches that I have had good luck with. I guess maybe with the more money you can spend the standards get higher. I just need to be able to tell time, not be a pain in the butt, and it hold up to the test of time.
@@JoeKyser I've had a few battery powered ones, that CLAIMED to run 2 years on a battery. Everytime, the first battery would fail in 9-12 months. I'd replace it and within another 9-12 months the entire thing would be fried. Wearable electronic devices do NOT like me!
Great video. I worked for SEIKO in the 1980s in Toronto, Ontario. We were the head office for Canada. I interacted with the head office in Japan frequently. SEIKO also created one of the first FitBit type devices in 1984...and a TV set wrist watch ala DIck Tracy.
I remember the TV changer watch! Or at least something like it. A kid in high school had one and whenever we would watch a video he would always mess with the TV screen to piss off the teacher. We knew it was going on so I couldn’t stop laughing so he told me to just put my head down lololo. I think he drove the teacher insane . The teacher started cursing and talking to himself.
@@2steaksandwiches665 Super story and many thanks as I good laugh at the poor teacher's expense, long after the fact of course. :-)
A fantastic video, and one long overdue. Having been a watch enthusiast for over 20 years, it can be hard to explain the industry and the amazing stories it's produced to others, but this is a fascinating insight into a hobby that many such as myself enjoy. Thank you.
And here we are today with Swatches costing £60 to £150 for a plastic product which cannot be maintained.....
I don't know how you can call the Accutron a "novelty" or a "not a new standard".. Sure it's reign was only about a decade because of the advent of the Quartz movement, but for that decade it was the most accurate watch available. Period. With a guaranteed accuracy of just 2 seconds a day. NASA used it on nearly 50 missions, most notably companioning Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin during the Apollo 11 Space Mission. Several are still on the moon to this day in the rover and other equipment. It was also commonly used in military equipment such as planes. Also, I could be wrong, but from my knowledge and doing a quick search doesn't show that Elgin had anything to do with the Accutron's development or release. Elgin sold the first electronic watch, this pushed Bulova to develop one themselves, the Accutron, but it was not an Elgin watch.. On a side note, the humming is also basically inaudible. Unless you hold the watch to your ear or are in an incredibly quiet environment, you cannot hear it. Its not like it affects your day to day living, annoying everyone around you. In fact, I'd argue the automatic movement in my modern Tissot is more audible than any of my accutrons.
That stuck out to me too. And while Accutron isn’t as known as say Seiko, it’s still around and viable, and highly desired by many watch enthusiasts.
@@thewatchfemme4051 That's true, but even then, the Accutron isn't even it's own brand like Seiko, it's still Bulova. It was just a single product for that brand. And I'd definitely say Bulova is basically still as well known as seiko.
Elgin and Lip co-developed the original electric watches around the same time as Hamilton Ventura so think that’s probably got mixed into the accutron story here.
@@IlluminatingWatches yeah, that's a good thought.
Disagree about the Accutron's humming - it's far from inaudible. My father had an Accutron, a present from a railway company that used them in a nod to its time-sensitive past, My youngest brother could hear it well enough that he could tell immediately when Dad entered the room. I could hear it in a quiet room when its face was presented in my direction, and after a time, it became annoying.
As a watch guy, I am glad you did this. People who don't wear timepieces, or those who rely on their phones for the time, have no idea how disruptive quartz was. Nice job.
The number one watch in the world is the Apple smartwatch.
@@imhereforthememes5063 Have you got any numbers to back that up? I thought it would be something along the lines of a Casio F91W as the best-selling watch in the world.
@@DiamandiL The quartz crìsis almost destroyed the luxury market but the smartwatch is the watch that saved wearing any watch at all after the smartphone was invented.
@@imhereforthememes5063 People wore watches after Smart Phones were invented and before the Apple Watch was introduced. Also the Quartz Crisis was well and truly over by the time Smart Phones were released let alone smart watches. I'm trying to find out if the Apple Watch has surpassed the venerable and ubiquitous Casio F91W as that has been sold in great numbers for over 30 years now.
@@DiamandiL Apple smartwatch sales "According to Cybart’s figures, the Apple Watch passed the 100 million mark in December 2020, and another 30 million new users were added in 2020." If you are going by one watch for 30 years I don't know. But one thing I do know. Casio F-91W are cheap to make but that doesn't mean they get sold easily either. They are a meme watch now. As of right now the Apple smartwatch has saved the watch industry.
Beautifully written! This truly is one of the best scripts you and your team have created for this channel. I didn't think at first that this would be quite so interesting but I was certainly proven wrong there!
Simon, of all your channels & videos to date. This is by far the best by far, and shows your own true personal appreciation for nice timepieces. Perfect mate! I will be sharing this to lots of watch nerds.
I've got a Seiko Turtle my ex bought me in 1984, it's an automatic dive watch, needs a service but still runs. Bought a Tag Aquaracer quartz failed diving at 6ft after 10 years. I now own an Omega Seamaster 300 diver automatic that I'm selling because it's just a beast of a watch. Weighs a ton. I've got a 7.5 inch wrist and it looks huge on my wrist. The Seiko cost $180 in 84. The Tag about $2000 ( I think) about 10 years ago. The Omega retails for $6,800 + tax ( I didn't pay that) now. Gotta say... save the money. Buy a Seiko dive watch unless you're a collector or just have cash to burn. Capt.Bob, SV ( Sailing Vessel) 27th Chance, Tampa Fl.
Great video! Obviously a lot of early history skipped here, but, as a watch collector, I always appreciate insights into the Quartz Crisis, and seeing how the Swiss bounced back. Possibly little known fact is that Seiko planned to dump all of their mechanical watch production equipment, but it was saved by Seiko watchmakers, who brought it back, along with their own talents, when it was realized a market still existed. Endless stories in the watch world!
Huh, that's interesting. I remember hearing this story about Zenith. They wanted to throw away all of their mechanical watch making equipment (thinking quartz was the future), but one of the workers just decided to put everything in storage. That one single move saved the entire brand.
An episode on the spring drive would be amazing.
3:15 Cartier *IS,* in fact, rightly credited with inventing the wristwatch but well before WW I. And the model was not its iconic tank model but rather a collaboration with Brazilian aviator pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont in 1904. Unlike the cumbersome pocket watch standard of the day, Dumont needed a timepiece freeing both hands for the constant monitoring and crucial adjustments required while piloting airships. Yes. Airships. (It was a French thing. Don't ask.)
Kinda of. There were already wristwatches before the Cartier Santos, but they were pocket watches adapted to be used on the wrist. So the concept was there. Cartier, however, did produce the first watch designed specifically to be a wristwatch, with the Santos.
As a watchmaker for 45 years I found this video informative and interesting! Thanks Simon!
the Swiss used to produce a lot of schlock mechanical pieces too. The quartz crisis came as a blessing in disguise as it washed the junk away leaving the Swiss watchmaking with a freshly burnished luxury image. PS: Switzerland used to be the China of Europe in the 19th century - a poor country with cheap labor. Serious watches were made in England and France
That's quite true, the Swiss were even making fake French and British brands.....! How times change....ehh? However by the time of the quartz crisis the Swiss had already moved far away from that game. Even small Swiss brands of the time produced good quality watches.
@@brianmsahin Not quite. In a Columbo episode the detective notices the dead guy was wearing expensive clothes and a crappy watch. This gets him thinking the scene was staged. Watch geeks identified it as a "Swiss made" no jewel or low jewel store brand watch sold at department stores etc.
@@vladchan Colombo? A tv show?? 😂😂😂
Cheap and crappy swiss watches made many American watch companies bust or in Swiss ownership long before the quartz crisis, Elgin, Waltham and Hamilton, to name but three, Bulova followed
@@jamesblonde2271 Cheap and crappy? BS. The American companies couldn't compete, so they went under - simple as that.
The best horology video I ever watched in all these years on KZhead. You have beaten all these watch(es) KZheadrs by a mile today. Well researched and documented video, thanks for uploading...
From a 'watch guy' this is one of, if not the best videos I've seen on the subject for a mass audience. I could even see it becoming its own miniseries. Well done!
1:00 - Chapter 1 - Early timekeeping 3:45 - Chapter 2 - The 1st digital timepieces 7:05 - Chapter 3 - The miracle of quartz 9:25 - Chapter 4 - Industrial fallout 12:45 - Chapter 5 - Swatch & learn 15:20 - Chapter 6 - Success through crisis 18:30 - Chapter 7 - Watchmaking today
A video on the spring drive would be great. I've learned how they work a dozen times and still fumble whenever I explain my snowflake to people. Maybe a video on movements as a whole. Most use the Swiss lever escapement but Nomos and Grand Seiko both have new escapements that are worth looking at. A quick overview, why artisans use low frequency 21000vph, but others use high beat 36000vph movements and most high end are somewhere closer to 28,000vph. Maybe a quick overview on tourbillons and constant force tech. There's a lot of tech that goes into some watches that most people would never know.
A side excursion for mechanical movements looking at the evolution of various tourbillon designs and their transition from a mechanism that attempted to remove a source of variation in the timekeeping to a 'boutique' status where the point is not to improve the regulation of the watch, but to create ever more complicated and visually interesting mechanisms would make an entire video just on its own.
a deep dive on the quartz crisis was great, but a similar deep dive into the total history of time keeping devices would be marvelous. Here we got just a quick hand waving sketch of that history
Omega also uses a different escapement, the co-axial escapement.
I would not turn down the watch the Dali Lama of Tibet has great story.
Mechanical watch gear trains are always under pressure of the mainspring. In a quartz watch the gear train is under no pressure and at rest until the very moment the second hand wants to move one second. In a fraction of a second the electrical system tells the electric motor to spin the gear train then the gears go back at rest until the second hand needs to moves again. Other than the constant vibration of the quartz the watch is not doing anything for most of its life. Such little strain or wear in a quartz watch it can be made to function well with the cheapest material and construction.
As a watch enthusiast, a lot of the information laid out here was already familiar to me, but as always, hearing Simon narrate is worth it all on its own.
Agree ! I knew all the information but he has a way of explaining things that's different .
Absolutely superb video Simon, a masterclass in clear, concise and well-researched presentation.
Yes on the Grand Seiko, it is a very interesting story and a beautiful time piece.
That was a really good video Simon, enjoyed that factual journey a lot...more like it please (and hello from Faversham!) cheers
Absolutely fantastic video Simon! Yes, make more! As a watch nerd I knew the history and this video really encapsulated this period. Congrats! I have a collection of hand wind mechanical, automatic and quartz watches including a 1960 Swiss watch still running perfectly from a company that didn't survive the quartz crisis. Looking forward to seeing more on the subject!
Thanks Simon for this thoroughly engrossing video. I appreciate the effort that went into researching/producing it. To answer your question: Yes, a video on this Hayek character would be a worthy addition to your series.
He hired me when I was 24 and I worked for him 10 years. A very charismatic, demanding boss that could scare some employees. Always the smartest in the room. Energetic genius, incredibly intelligent, impulsive, with a very soft core and a heart of gold. One of the best persons I ever had the pleasure to know in my life. I worked for a boss that I loved.
Yes please in regards to a spring drive video! Great info in this one. Keep up the good work!
Being a watch nut. 1904 was the first Cartier wristwatch design for Alberto Santos-Dumont. And it went on sale in 1911.
Btw love the video. Made me smile
This is the most in-depth discussion on the watch industry I have seen. Would love to see your insight in the Seiko spring drive.
This is amazing!! Great video and YES please create follow up videos on Spring Drive and other topics. The recent Omega Moonswatch is the perfect amalgamation of the industry, and brings the quartz crisis full circle.
Yes Simon, please do some videos on people like Nic Hayek for sure. I suggest one on John Harrison who revolutionised timekeeping (his wooden regulators were accurate to 1 second a month in the early 1700's!) and another on Edwin H Land who not only invented instant cameras but helped design the U2 Spyplane among many other things- even inventing the presentation launch style of Steve Jobs lol.
The Harrison clock is still functioning 300 years later with no lubrication. Made entirely of wood. It has to be wound up by lifting the weight which powers it. It is located atop a stable in a farm.
@@munawarkarim8026 it is stunning, and IMO one of the most amazing things ever crafted by a human.
John Harrison also invented the caged roller bearing in his quest for accuracy (and the prize money). I was surprised he didn't get a mention in this video.
As someone who LOVES Seiko this was a great video. I would love to see a video on the spring drive. A blue snowflake was my first "Real" watch and I am still amazed when I look down at it
The "spring drive" deserves a own video alone
Excited to see watch content, especially from you guys. My dad got me into watches when I was a kid. He got me a Pulsar dive watch that I wore for years and still have. I've built up a small collection of Seiko, Citizen, Luminox, a Panerai, and my favorite a titanium Omega Seamaster. Still want a Hamilton, Tudor, and a Ball just because of the history behind the names. It quickly becomes an addictive hobby and the watch industry seems to be going through a small revival thanks to influencers and people buying luxury watches as investments.
This one really hit home with me as watch collecting is a big hobby of mine. Please do more on watches and horology in general.
"On the Ball" is a reference to Ball watches
I heard it was a railroad term for having the right of way. Maybe both at the same time thanks for the interesting comment.
Etymologists don't always agree, it's likely a sports metaphor as we have more in common through sports than watches
Or a pilots turn and bank indicator where you step on the ball to get a coordinated turn
@@user-it7lf7kk8m the term may have come from several places in kind of just got a general nature.
@@markmcgoveran6811 yes, wasn't there a red ball route or something that was used by US for supplies after d day as well, then there is the meat ball for carrier landings. Too many balls!😄
So fascinating! I’m wearing a Grand Seiko that my wife bought me! You should do a video on the spring drive movement one!
Great video. Hats off for the sector titles. Thanks for the comprehensive lookback.
I just acquired a Grand Seiko Springdrive, and I have to say I just couldn't be happier with it. I also have a Seiko that utilizes a kinetic "direct drive" that uses a mechanical watch's winding rotor to charge a battery, rather than a spring. It's a marvel.
That was a great Sideprojects video. I'd love to see one one about spring drive technology. I've gotten into watches over the past two years and there's something a little romantic about them.
My dad was a watch repair man. It really screwed things up for him and he hated quartz watches. One day we were at a gas station with a bunch of cheap watches that looked nice on the outside and said, "this is why my store closed." I mostly own mechanical watches myself because of the art and beauty of the movement.
Imagine your dad smiling at the knowledge that my local independent watchmaker quoted and received $500 to service my 1969 Omega Constellation. I was thrilled with his price, which was a bargain.
I am an antique watch collector of all wind up pocket railroad watches. They actually keep outstanding time when serviced. I carry one on a daily basis.
It's too bad he couldn't hang on. Watchmakers these days can charge a premium for routine services of these luxury brands.
Yes. I have 9 watches. Some automatic but my favorite is a small gold wind up. I have bought a few at goodwill and had fixed and gave as gifts.
@@speedmastermarkiii True, wish he would have done that in his advance years. I think those bad days were still fresh in his mind and would not want to go back.
This is a fantastic video. I really enjoyed the history and chronological flow of knowledge of time pieces
An interesting history of watchmaking.I remember working at a jewellery store in the 70's. The craze at that time was digital watches.Times change, fashions change.
Wait, the one conductor had a watch that was 4 minutes slow and that was the cause of the accident? I feel the fact two trains were on the same track heading in opposite directions with a margin of error of less then 4 minutes in 1891 was the cause of that accident. We wouldn't even have such a narrow margin of error today with modern GPS atomic clocks.
Good point
Yes. The story sound like internet bullshit. Our ancestors were not idiots.
The story is good though.
The margin of error in the planned time tables may have been bigger, but the conductor was pushing things right up to the edge of the margin. But the edge was four minutes sooner than he thought it was.
I was told there would be no math.
I'm not a big watch guy, but this was surprisingly fascinating! Great episode and I'd love to see more like it
I'm a watch person and my current favorites are Grand Seiko but that doesn't mean I don't buy others. Cell phones make setting the time so easy.
Best horology information I've seen in quite a while. As a watch hobbyist and aficionado, every watch collector worth his/her value in precious metals, should watch this video!
Great video on the history of wristwatches. I've just recently started watching some videos on watch repair from channels like Wristwatch Revival and others. Fascinating stuff.
Lest you dismiss the Bulova Accutron too quickly, it's interesting to note that the Apollo spacecraft that flew men to the moon used Accutron movements in their cockpit clocks, because at the time (1960s) the quartz movement technology was considered too young and untested for NASA to trust. The astronauts themselves were issued Omega Speedmaster mechanical wristwatches, which of course became super famous and popular, are still made to this day, and are now very expensive luxury items. On the Apollo 11 mission, one of the cockpit clocks failed prior to landing on the moon, so Neil Armstrong strapped his Omega watch to the control panel of the lunar module and left it there when he and Buzz Aldrin stepped outside. In the famous photo of Aldrin standing on the moon, where he is facing Armstrong's camera, Aldrin's Omega watch can be clearly seen strapped to the wrist of his spacesuit with a long Velcro strap, right out there in hard vacuum on the moon. That watch was later stolen when he shipped his belongings after the mission and is still missing.
those omegas famously also failed by having that stupid domed glass pop off, I like bulovas technology, but their watch design deserves to have the designer shot, into the sun.
@@GamingAmbienceLive Bulova now and Bulova in the 60s have nothing in common. After they were bought by Citizen, everithing went downhill. Especially the design - watches like 214 Alpha and Deep Sea 666 218 are really pretty, and now Bulova doesn't make such watches.
The race to make the first automatic chronograph watch in the late 60's would be an interesting topic . It happened at the beginning of the quartz crises. Involved such brands as , Zenith, Seiko , Hamilton and I believe Omega . There's controversy about who was first .
That's a controversial story. When Zenith and Buren/heuer/Hamilton presented their movements Seiko wasn't officially ready, but eventually someone started to find 6139 with serial numbers that indicated that the watches were made way earlier than the official release
@@fedomandez I know that's part of what makes it an intriguing topic .
@@fedomandez Yes, I personally have a couple of these very early 6139s. Zenith was smart to be the first to announce their 'El Primero' movement in January, 1969...even though it would not actually be available for retail sale until October. The Caliber 11 was publicly shown in March, 1969, but the watches on display were prototypes. Production models would not be available until June or July. Seiko has a policy of starting production of a new model two or three months before its official release so supply will be able to meet demand, a policy which persists to this day. Buy a brand new Seiko on the day it is released and the serial number will tell you it was actually made 2-3 months earlier. The 6139 was officially introduced in May, 1969, so naturally there will be watches serial numbered to January-April 1969. They almost certainly had working prototypes in 1968. Seiko was likely starting serial production of automatic chronographs on the very day Zenith was announcing theirs, and production was certainly in full swing when the Caliber 11 press conference was happening. I spoke to a guy who was a US jeweler at the time and his answer was simple and firm: "We got the Seikos first."
@@aaroncostello8812 Wow, thanks for detailing that history.
Great video. I've had many watches over the years from cheap casios to entry level Swiss autos. Trying to thin out my collection at the moment as it becomes a chore to swap between too many. The market for automatics has exploded in recent years, just look around KZhead at the amount of watch channels there are. The Chinese have latched onto this and a good number of brands are churning out homages in the tens of thousands. Some are very high quality such as those from San Martin and Chronos.
Fascinating history. Simon has done it again. Thank you for sharing.
YES! Definitely a Side Projects video on Seiko, and the absolutely mad competition between the Daini and Suwa Seiko factories that ended up giving us the Grand Seiko and the King Seiko. Definitely a video I would watch :-)
New Channel! New Channel! Side Watch Mega BioWatch Projects! Because another neat video would be Russian/Soviet Horology, the number 1 Moscow watch factory, the number 2 Moscow watch factory, first watch in space, the cheapest legitimate dive watch in the world ($50 for a Vostok Amphiba). I would definitely watch (hahahha!) your new Side Mega Project watch Bio channel!
The accutron is such an incredible piece of technology. The US govt told bulova to delay the public release of the watch to prevent russia from getting ahold of the technology. To this day only Bulova knows how they made gear teeth small enough to interact with the tuning fork. would be an interesting video by itself. I won an Accutron and its the most accurate watch in my collection.
Looks like the U.S. gov's efforts failed, considering that the Slava Transistor exists.
Accutron is legend . But are all going to fail (?) if they have not already. That is, the supply of some critical part, maybe not the tuning fork, are no more and can't be replaced. Clarify if you can. Wish I could have an Accutron!
@@stevenj2380 all mechanical watches Including new, vintage, and accutrons need servicing every few years. There are parts available for them and people know how to service them just like any other new or vintage watch. There are some watchmakers that specialize in them as well.
@ Not really. The index wheel is 2.5mm in diameter, and have 320 teeth. If it's toched by a bare finger, it gets damaged. Of cource, it can be produced again with a highly precise hobbing machine, but currently no company is willing to.
So slight correction Elgin did announce the first electronic watch but Hamilton was the first to release one to the market. Those early electronic watches used a balance wheel with a coil and an electro magnet to spin the gear train. However these were about just as accurate as traditional watches and didn’t have much improvements. The tuning fork movement was invented by bulova and saw a fairly large increase in accuracy but were fairly expensive to make.
I'm surprised no one else has pointed this out...
Your Vlogs are incredible!!! You don't dawdle but talk quickly, but legibly, to get through the subject. Others, I generally skip ahead to find the next section as they repeat over and over. Your graphics are succinct and forcused on the issue, unlike others using in appropriate graphics over and over.
As a horologist, this was an amazingly great video. Thank you!
I love watches and even tooled up enough to start replacing my own batteries and cleaning my own movements. Its a wonderful hobby in spite of the costs involved.
I have been replacing the batteries of my watches for about 5 years. I got the tools when I was quoted $300 USD for a battery and new seals for my 1995 Omega Seamaster.
Great video, thank you for sharing!
this was way more interesting than it should have been. Great research, great presentation = great video.
Fun facts. Seiko created the first electronic digital watch, but mechanical digital watches have existed since the early 1800s and can still be found today. These use numbers on disks powered by the mechanical movement to display hours and minutes in the same way that watches display the date. Another prestigious Swiss brand, Zenith, was owned for a short time by the American radio and TV manufacturer also named Zenith. This short union arguably contributed to Zenith making it through the Quartz Crisis.
Hamilton made the first digital watch
Watches are now just another piece of last century's technology, and have relegated watches to the category of being jewelry, and in the case of the outrageously expensive mechanical versions, just pieces of conspicuous consumption, showing off how much money one has to throw away on something completely unnecessary. Sad but true. All they are, is decorations. Yes, I have several, all purchased many decades ago, when such things were needed. In fact, my very first purchase as a 15 year old getting my very first on the books job, was a Bulova Oceanographer, for $100 back in 1972. I had wanted to emulate the Rolex submariners of the time. I still own it. I also have the much older Bulova self winding gold plated watch, that my dad found on the sidewalk, and had fixed for me with a new watchband, when I was 8 years old.
and then there are the ridiculously high servicing costs.
@@christurner6430 Not really; the conspicuous consumption brands WILL charge you a lot, because that is what they live on, the image of being expensive. IIRC, my more wealthy friends like to brag about paying in excess of $500 to have their Rolex, IWC, PIaget serviced every year, by a corporate approved watch repair service center. But I still have a local watch repair man who does the servicing on my mechanical watches, when needed, for around $100 each. I don't go for the rich craziness of an 'annual cleaning', I only bring them in when they need it. However, he's nearing retirement age, and I'm not sure where I will go, when he closes shop.
great video and very informative thank you for creating it
the best and most captivating video simon has ever made! wow, thank you!
Thanks Man. BTW, At least in the US, it's pronounced like El' Jin, and Bull' o VA. I'm 80 years old and still have a Kaco with the radium glow-In-dark dial. I checked it with a Geiger counter one time in high school science class and it really set that thing off. It also has the famous patented Twistoflex band. My Mother bought it for my 14th birthday. The salesman was our dentist who was also a watch repairman. He said it had Elgin movements. I wore it for many years. The Twistoflex band is as good as new and byfar the best watch band I ever owned. It supposedly had a lifetime warranty. Looks like it's going to work far me. I yearn for the time when even simple things were built with quality and pride. Too bad the whole world has been junkified.
I started to wear a mechanical watch for purely practical reasons. But I learned to appreciate it very much. Not only does it keep working during experiments, that fry all watches and phones that where unfortunate enough to be near. But it also requires a bit of care and thus is a good training to keep good habits. And it's quite a good feeling to have for shtf situations. Besides, these days it's a bit of a novelty. And people who are curious about it, are usually rather interesting characters.
Unfortunately not enough people care to appreciate the wonder of a mechanical movement 😭
Superbe vidéo. Thank you for great content
Well done Simon! As a watch enthusiast, I found this entry highly informative and entertaining, Well done.
I love automatics and I love quartz. I will definitely be watching this when I have time. Too many people look at this as a very black-and-white issue. There’s a point in having both in your collection. For instance I had to run out the door yesterday afternoon for my sons swimming competition. I didn’t have time to set my automatic. The quartz was great.
Watching this with my Seiko Sharp Edge on my wrist was very satisfying. Thank you for another great video, and please do a video on the Spring Drive! Would be cool to have more people learn about how amazing that movement is. Though, I have to admit, I am weird and prefer the 9F Quartz family
Thank you Simon! As a watchmaker for over twenty years it’s really enjoyable for me to watch this 🙏🏻
I really enjoy wrist watches. I can't afford a $150 watch, but I like learning, looking, and reading about watches. Another watch video would be great. I find the self winding watches, where your arm movements "wind" the watch as fascinating. Thanks for another great video.
Two words: Orient Tristar. $80 for a Beautiful quality self-winding mechanical watch
It's just the last few years I have really gotten into watches. Looked up videos to fix my old Star Wars mechanical watch and fell in love. Saved for a while then did the last thing anyone expected, instead of buying a Breitling, I spent 50 bucks and got the dreaded Invicta. Everyone loves to hate it but it has impressed me. Built with a Seiko Movement I keeps time within 15 seconds a week, will hold a wind for close to 40 hours and is dead ass tuff. Been my daily wear doing everything but welding with no complaints. I am sure others on here who collect will give me crap about it but I am totally impressed.
@@TalenGryphon I love my blue dial TriStar!
@@mrmyc0rn840 Yeah! I have a gold Tristar with a gold face that is polished into lateral bars. It is "Baller on a budget", and my go-to dress watch! People love it, including horologists :-)
Literally any Soviet watch (such as Pobeda, Raketa, Slava, Luch, etc.) or Indian HMT on eBay will have you sorted for maybe $50.
The key to the quartz revolution in time keeping was the development of super precise power flow regulators. I'm surprised that that crucial fact was not in this video. That is what made quartz watches as accurate or even more accurate than expensive Swiss movements. .
You don't need that sort of thing for a quartz oscillator. They're stable within a wide range of supply voltages.
Great vid👍🤙 let's see the spring drive vid!
This is a great video on watch and should be shared by every enthusiasts Thank you Simon
My best friend in the '80s to early '90s always wore an Accutron. He said it was a special model only distributed to jewelers for their own use, and had purchased it from the jeweler in town many years before. He always received lots of complements on it due to that see-thru design, but when it needed a new battery he would take it to a jeweler two hours away as the jeweler he had bought it from was eager to get it back. It is probably a coincidence, but it disappeared at his wake.
So was going to be buried in it? And someone then took it off his body??
@@fukkitful Nothing like that. The wake was in his house, and it disappeared from his dresser drawer.
@@maxhand1562 That seems even worse. Someone was deliberately digging through his stuff then. At least put him in the ground first.
I must say, as a watch enthusiast for the last few years, this is by far the most complete, interesting, and relevant summary of the watch industry that I've seen. Congratulations on a great video.
I would love to see your take on the Springdrive watch in another video. This was one of the best retrospectives I have seen on the whole history of watch making.
To answer you about a video on Seiko Spring drive, I think that would make great content Simon. I am a watch enthusiast, and I do have a base knowledge of how the system works. Not big at throwing ideas, request, (or sometimes demands) as I've seen happen, but you did ask. Anyway, great video Simon, and production team. Thank you for y'alls efforts.
Also, Simon.. what watch are you wearing? 😏
I have the same question!!
.
Worth a mention: Casio has a line of quartz watches in several styles that run on solar or regular light, they're shock proof, waterproof, and have "atomic" radio signal timekeeping. This is a watch you can wear for your whole life, and never need to tend to it or reset the time or date- ever. Now, that's amazing. the prices start at $85.
I have one and it's an amazing piece of technology.
@@WatchTimePass what's the name of it?
@@brighbytes G-shock/Waveceptor
@@desertsoldier41 thank you muchly
@@brighbytes and DW5610
this was a very well researched and produced video.
Once again Simon & Company produce an excellent video! Horology is one of those subjects that could put off non enthusiasts, but not here! I am not a deeply invested lover of watches, but I find them fascinating. I'm certain that even a newcomer would enjoy this one.
This is a great telling Simon and team. I recently bought myself a seiko 5 sport and I love it but I wear my classic Casio and even my 20 year old g-shock more
I stopped wearing watches when I realized they made me impatient by creating the expectation that everything needs to happen on time. But a good video, Simon!
I haven't worn a watch in probably 15 years. But I do love them. I still remember the swatches I had in the mid 80s, one was classic 80s colors and design but my favorite was completely clear so you could see all the components.
You could try a 24h single hander, might help ease that time anxiety a bit.
So how do you deal with the so called ''smart'' phone ?
@@m.bernard7017 I've gotten good at ignoring it. It helps that few people call me.
@@ericstromberg9608 To me they are not 'smart' just annoying
Very good, informative video. 👍🏼Yes, definitely more watch content please
This was an excellent video that laid out most of the key points, but there are some things worth mentioning. The Swiss response to Seikos first ever quartz movement was a collaboration by 21 of the Swiss watch brands to create the first Swiss quartz movement, known as the the Beta 21 movement. Patek, Rolex, Omega, IWC along with others used the Beta 21 movement in their watches and around 6,000 total watches were produced using the movement. The Omega Marine Chronometer came a bit later on and it was Omega successfully producing the most accurate quartz movement which held the record for many years. I have an Omega f300 that uses the same movement as the Bulova tuning fork movement and the only way to hear the humming is to press the watch against your ear. The tuning fork watches of that time didn’t stay around long because quartz watches were introduced a couple of years later, not because of the humming sound.
I got the feeling at the 1815 Battle of Waterloo the time accuracy between Allied and French Sides was possibly half an hour difference . Ive read hundreds of eye witness reports and key actions and events never seem the same time frame apart from Half hour to roughly hour
That was before the standards of time zones. The two sides may have been using different definitions of what time it was.
Always been a fan of Seiko. Bought me a fine Seiko Titanium Kinetic back 97 or 98. Loved that watch. But then I got drunk on St. Patty’s day in Savanah, Georgia that same year and gave it to a homeless person I wondered across 🤦🏻♂️ Good for him though lol. I’d love to see a deep dive into some of the top innovators of the industry
My lifetime has straddled much of this. I was in my late teens when the first quartz models appeared, but I also remember the Accutron tuning fork watch introduction (even then, I liked watches). Timekeeping has been 'solved' multiple times from Harrison's chronometers forward. Things that were expensive suddenly became inexpensive and sometimes trouble free. At one time quality clock was the most valuable furniture item, to get a good one cost a lot and required skilled maintenance. Then Henry Warren developed the synchronous clock which kept vastly better time (except for power outages), required no maintenance and was inexpensive. A long case clock or a mantel clock became a luxury item. A similar thing happed with the quartz watch (laboratory quartz clocks existed since the 1920s but they were too expensive for home use). Whereas previously one needed to spend a lot to get an accurate watch, within a few years anyone could have a very accurate clock in each room. So again the older tech became luxury item (not unlike the fine fountain pen being replaced by disposable ball points). (I have a number of mechanical skeleton watches (non are 'luxury') because I'm a gear-head at heart and enjoy watching the machinery. But when I'm out hiking in the woods, I have a high end 'smart' watch -- with high precision GPS and compass as well as health incident monitors that can call help (I am 74) are more useful to me.)
Great video and yes, although I already know how springdrive works, a video on such an amazing technique never gets me bored.
Would love to learn even more about Seiko. I inherited one of their watches that includes solar charging and automatic time setting from my dad when he passed.
Seiko is the best! Don't be fooled by luxury/prestige.
Which model? Lots of great info on Seiko out there.
@@chozar Eco-Drive WR300 Titanium
@@cdnaudioguy That sounds like a Citizen, you sure? There should be a movement nah case number on the back. It's like a 4 digit number, a dash, and many more numbers after that.
@@chozar You are absolutely correct. I was thinking of my Citizen. My Seiko Chronograph looks similar, but is much more conventional. Sadly, I wear my Apple Watch most of the day for work.