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In today's video I attempt to 3D Print Adidas YEEZY Slides. The Adidas YZY Slide is one of the most popular shoes on the market and is one of my favorites! Check out the full video where I 3D print YEEZY Slides!
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Seth Fowler
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I've been 3D printing for about 8 years now, and one thing you may want to try is changing the infill patter, which could affect the squishiness and feel under foot.
Great call! I’ll try that!
@@SethFowler iirc gyroid is what a lot of people use
i wanna start 3d printing but i do not wanna spend over like 300-400$ for a good printer, what should i buy?
@@SethFowler cant wait for the next video
@@SethFowler Instead of printing an entire slide maybe you could print multiple soles with different infill patterns? Just a thought.
I’ve been loving these 3d printing shoe videos
Samee
Ikr
same
wait, this series of 3D printing is amazing. even if none of the DIY projects matched an authentic pair it's super fun, educational and interesting. thank you for getting into this, seth! 👍🏽
Yeah
As others have probably said… 1) change infill at different parts of the model (easy in PrusaSlicer), 2) use a bigger nozzle like a .6 or .8mm and 3) 0.15mm layer height is tiny, am sure you’d get good-enough results with 0.3 on a 0.6mm nozzle will print in fraction of the time
THIS!!!!!
Thank you so much for continuing to be the only person to fill this niche for me. I hope you keep it up! I'd love a video series on you designing your own slide, and adjusting parameters and things to make them actually viable.
Your cr 10 printer will inherently be stringy when trying to print flexible filaments. This is due to it being a bowden style extruder instead of a direct drive extruder on the prusa. You should try using progressive infill so there is more infill at the sole and less infill on the top where the infill does not matter. The infill pattern you should use is the gyroid pattern.
Looks fun I was waiting for this keep it up would love to see more!
In Prusa Slicer you can add modifiers to change the infill at different parts of the sole. i.e 60% for the heel 30% for the toe and 50% for the arch. Also you can use another model as the modifier to get a better shape. The rabit hole is deep. Great video. Keep up the good work.
I really hope he does this next time, the heel always collapsing is disappointing.
You can do this in Cura too.
I'm glad you're still doing this. You should try printing out some flat slabs that you can stand on so you can test different types of infills and densities. That should save you some print time since it's a simple shape and will use less material
seth, for some better results on the cr-10, upgrade your extruder to direct drive which helps print flexibles way better
I love your vids, I've Been Watching Both of The $20 Sneaker Collection Series And It Seems Like Such A Fun Thing To Do.
I love these 3d printing videos too keep it up!
With the support, figure out a good angle for printing the shoe. Angled slightly at anything less than 30 degrees will help with an overhang. You're essentially trying to make a bridge so stringing will occur.
IM really loving these 3D printing series, I've always been so interested in it, since its another form of art in my opinion but with technology! love it, keep going Seth!
With your Prusa Slicer, you can have different infill amounts at different layers, so you can make the bottom high infill and then low infill once it's past the base.
I highly recommend gyroid infill (you’ll still have to iterate to get the percentage just right though), and a 0.8mm or 0.6mm nozzle. Will be much quicker print and still look just as good. Gyroid is better for unilateral strength too.
This is awesome though. I’m gonna try to make some as well. Maybe foam runners too.
SETH!! Instead of printing out full slides with different infills, maybe try printing a bunch of small cubes with different infill types for you to test out, then once you find one you like you can print a full shoe with it. That way you can save time and money!! I’m loving the project and hope you somehow help change the shoe game with these, the possibilities are endless!! 🙌🤙
Stringiness isn't normally solved by supports. They are typically due to retraction and priming settings. Additionally travel speed has a significant impact on this as well.
One of the best videos I've seen all year 🙌
It was really cool to see these wonderful videos! Great concept, can't wait to see you create more interesting shoes with 3D printer! 😀😀😀
These 3d printing vids sure are great
i dont know if this is possible, but in 11:16 you metioned the "pocket of air squeezing", maybe there is a way to post process tpu filament prints to fuse the gap between layers, maybe this would make shoes more stiff and create feeling like 'walking on air' ? i know that people are using ipa fumes/acetone to smooth the petg prints. Really enjoy the shoes printing series, keep grinding 👍🏽
the two tone is mad fire. I like that maybach comparison
I commented on your first 3D video where YT pulled me in based on algorithm's. Well they stuck cause I have now watched all the 3D printed videos. You are quickly getting into the world of 3D printing. Infill is a beast when you really learn what all is available and can be done. Neat to see you work your way through the iterations. Still haven't subbed but getting there, lol.
We need a part 2 to this!!
Very cool, try a larger nozzle and a thicker filament, I may speed things up a little. And there is free software you can use for slicing that allows you to place different infill amounts in different places of the build. 🤞
Use your scan in an editor like meshmixer, and subtract it from a block to make a negative space. Then you can chop that into pieces to make mold halves. Get some two-part rubber or silicone and cast these, and you can get the firmness and flexibility all in one.
The two tone actually looks great 🔥🔥🔥
I think you need to bump up the wall thickness by a lot, but also do some testing on other models to see how to print the fastest.
This is pure comedy...to have waited so many days and hours only for these to collapse is brutally hilarious LMAO great content good sir!!!!
I think you have to separate the top and the bottom part. The top part can be a really nicely knitted flexible sock, and you can add other things that stabilize the whole shoe.
The 2 tone joins go crazy
I love it, keep it coming! I have several kilos of TPU 96A that i need to use for something, i'm going to try my hand at printing some feetwear that i can lounge around in at work :D
Can't wait to see you try the foam runner next
This is soooo wild! 🫶🔥
This is cool, could you use a more sturdy material for the infill and then the softer material for the remainder of the slide?
I’ve been waiting for this…
In your slicer you should select the sole of the shoe and change the infill to be a little more dense, then for the top have thin it out for softness.
I would defiantly increase the infill % and change it to a "3d" infill pattern so that its more uniform. Also i would wary the infill % between the sole and the rest of it, so that the sole is more solid solid and the rest of it is a bit more soft. Would love a pt 2.
Suggestion, With Prusa you can use certain modifications to make a 3d model slice with one type of infill, and then another part of the model slice with another type of infill. Id suggest looking into that, so you could say make the heel area thicker in infill (and id say look into using gyroid infill because it might have better cusioning) and have the front area have less infill. Same with layer thickness, you can make the bottom layers have thicker walls while leaving the upper layers with thinner walls. Theres a lot of options for you to use instead of one infill prints all. Edit: Other suggestion, theres printer profiles in the Prusa Slicer for creality printers, take a look at them since Prusa slicer is a better slicer then the creality one.
I think F80 rubber resin on an SLA printer could get you pretty close. I haven't gotten too deep with TPU on FDM machines but that F80 resin has been killer for rubbery type of projects
you should try the bambu labs p1s or max and see if you can do the soles as slid material and the inside as a softer material before finishing with a style material around the top. I recommend that printer because it can handle multiple materials with its AMS system as once.
Take a drink every time he says "Yeezy slide". Love the 3d printing shoe content.
might get me back into printing
another thing might be to make molds from the 3d printed objects then casting them with foam. Plus printing in TPU is way easier than PLA
I would suggest using the softiest material to do insoles for shoes and then printing the shoe out of any other material
You should drop that support density like CRAZY, and use support trees in Cura, or use Meshmixer to Analyze Overhangs and generate supports using their tool, then import to your final slicer and finish the slicing there for your final .gcode. Also use support blockers if needed. And something tells me....you should try gyroid infill instead of grid or lines.... 👍
BambuLab X1 will print these at least twice as fast, especially if you consider changing the nozzle diameter. If you are using 0.4mm, consider 0.6 or 0.8 for a drastic speed-up. 0.8mm would be close to twice as fast, especially if you up your layer height to .3-.4
i have a great video idea for you! ive been looking for cool sbs for a moment but cant find any. what i mean by cool is like special things about the shoe like for example the civilist dunks with the heat and colours would love that kind of video ✌️
You can use Prusa Slicer on the ender cr 10, you just need to add it as a printer
About the infill situation if your using cura to splice your prints you should change the infill type instead of more infill. I believe the default is cubic but I recommend using gyroid it’s more structure do you won’t need more infill
we need a video of you perfecting the 3d printed yeezy slide!
Maybe change not just the infill but the number of walls too, if you put a high number of walls with a low infill it may be soft in the middle and not crush under the weight on the sides, I don't know if I explained it correctly but I think it would have a good result
One recommendation I have would be to move to "gyroid" infill. I find that it prints quickly, and is far more regular in terms of structure ta cubic infill... at about 15% it would probably be great here.
does it have to be done in a single print. use the glow in the dark foam to make the tread. and the 2nd one to make the top and a 5mm sole and then just plastic glue them together?
Yo Seth are you able to use a harder filament on the soul of the shoe and then kind of change it at the top, to try and make it softer, and give more foot support?
You can print in foam. There are filaments that foam when you print them.
you should make some infil blocks to test the rigidity of the insole to find the best mach for 3d printed shoes.
research the digital foam videos use support blockers in heel area to increase infill to 30 -40 percent in that area only
you can lightly heat the stringing with a torch / heat gun to remove them!
absolutely innovative 💡 interesting stuff
I would suggest changing your infill pattern to "Cuboid". It offers strength in all directions. I also would experiment with increasing your wall count. One thing you can do is just print out the soles. It will take less time and you can experiment with different settings and nail the right stiffness.
This is a super sick video
You keep printing shoes with such low infill! I would look into different infill patterns like gyro is and increase the infill.
Would love to see a successful version!
SUPER NICE VIDEO LOVED IT
I like the two tone Maybach themed slide. Also, I'd use elliptical infill and put it to 7%
you might want to get a dry box for the fillament to help the stringiness
This is dope
Love your apthcry shirt, did you sell it before or is it just for you
You have to try & review Asics 3D Slides they are next Levil.
Double or triple the wall width. And maybe just increase the infill to 20-30% should be a good fit.
Are you using a hardened nozzle for the GITD filament? If its Brass the GITD materiel will slowly reem out the brass nozzle and lower print quality and could cause additional stringing.
Glow in the dark fillament will degrade your nozzle super fast. If your prints start to suck get a hardened steel nozzle, you'll be able to print abrasive glow in the dark fillament
Could you try to use the more firm filament on the sole and use the flex one on the upper
The two tone look 🔥🔥🔥ye needs to do that on V2 slides
I like this series, 3D printing shoes
is it possible to use both machines for one slide? layer by layer? have the stronger base/ stiffer base for the soul but then mid print use the ninja flex where your foot sits and the upper half of the slide, we need a part 2
What socks are you wearing? Love the green color!
the 3d printing videos are really interesting. might want to pick up a 3d printer soon
Don't get a fucking creality
I highly suggest joining the 3d printing discord and getting access to the what printer should I buy sheet. You want something with a PEI sheet bed (so you can peel it off and not have to struggle to get it off the glass
Also - prusas are like the high end shit but a step below ultimaker. Ultimaker is like the ultra high end shit lol
creality slicer is a really old version of Cura. you will have much better results if you update to the latest version of Cura or just slice in prusa slicer for your creality printer.
Seth, that was really fun to watch, thank you. Hope you figure out how to get the filler taken care of…..but you did an amazing job nonetheless
Probably a weird suggestion but maybe make a block with a cut out of the yeezy slide (A mold) and try filling it with expanding foam to see if you can create an actual foam version!
Makes me wonder if there is a material that would foam up after printing to allow it to fill the void spaces afterward. I doubt it, but maybe in the future.
I love the two tone. I would buy those but in pastel colors lol
Legendary
thats crazy
these videos are great
Hey man! Try to use gyroid infill, makes it squish better! :)
I would recommend an idex printer to use dissolvable filament for support. The IDEX printer optimally use dual direct drive extruders. Something like the Soval IDEX printer.
Soval SV04 IDEX printer would be my recommendation. You will need to calibrate it some what but using flexible and a dissolvable filament would make support removal super clean.
Also gyroid infill as well will give you the best squish feel
From my own shoes I made I found 13% infill with 4 print lines for the outer wall for 130lbs works great for daily use using poly maker TPU When wearing for cross country running, and intense tug a war the outer wall layers split or were too flexible. This was solved by welding the tears closed and welding to make the sides thicker. The sole will not squish out air when properly re-sealed The redesign of the shoes will have thicker walls in all the non flex spots Print time is 4days
You need to mess with changing the infill throughout the print. Probably need >50% for the sole of the shoe and then set it low for the insole and foot cover. You could try upgrading the ender printer with a direct drive extruder so it can print faster too.
i think you should make the retraction speed higher to stop the stringing
Buy a Boost Foam or any thing that can be placed inside the buttom so it can be supported when being stepped on.
So are you actually going to make a follow up video where you tune the shoes to be comfortable? That might be interesting.
for the strings taking a lighter to them can help remove it real quick, just - you know, don't hold the lighter next to the material too long cuz duh.
you should make some regular slides that look good and feel good out of the ninja flex filiment
You can fix stringyness with retraction But I wouldn't actually do that because you're using flexible filament, what I would do is print them without support, and then use a lighter to burn off the strings
Look up Combing in Cura. It should help with the stringy-ness.
Btw just a small thing I would not recommend using the creality slicer even tho you are using a creality printer. It's outdated. What I would rather recommend you use is whatever you are using for your Prusa. (Not sure if you are using Cura or Prusa slicer) but both of them have profiles for your printer from what I know and they should make your experience much better with basically everything. Also they are better at slicing because they both have better algorythms under the hood.
Creality slicer is an older forked version of Cura. Though I agree he should switch to the real Cura preferably 5.0 or newer.