Final completion of this stainless exhaust stack. I’m completely happy with how it turned out & love the sound!
#ilovewelding #kanekidwelds #weldingisAWSome
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Stainless Bros
Tig Aesthetics
Vibrant Performance
PFERD
3M Speedglas
OTC Daihen
Torchwear
CK Worldwide
Arc-Zone
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Baileigh Ind.
1969 I was 16 years old my father bought me a Lincoln 220 (tombstone) welder When I was 30 I bought myself a Lincoln Tig 250 which I still have Welding helped my career (37 years ) as a heavy duty truck technician and made my job so much fun fixing things building custom exhaust systems making tools I was the service dept go to welder teaching welding ( spent 4 years teaching at ROP ) 4 years on hayward unified school district teachers advisory board 4 years VICA judge Been retired for 10 years Which I think welding made the biggest impact on my career still to this day more than 50 years later if I had to sell all my tools or unable to use them my tig welder will be the last thing I let go Welding not only saved my life as a youth ( lot of my neighborhood friends died at young age)its enhanced my whole adult life
Thank you for sharing that! That is a great history that makes me smile. I’m happy I’m just old enough to join VICA as it transitioned to SKILLS USA as it is now! It’s an awesome improving trades club that really promotes and excites students grow!
Great video Rush! Top notch with quality arc shots. Love it man, keep up the awesome work!
Love all your work keep it up you’re a rockstar 🌟🌟🌟
I love the colors on stainless and titanium nice job! 👍
I love the clean tight look of fusion welds without filler metal, and I am certain they are quite strong enough for an exhaust. But it sure takes PERFECT fit up to pull it off.
To be honest the look depends on pulse settings: if he put a champher and used a thin rod, with the same settings, the look would have been the same🤷🏻♂️
As a pipe fitter, when we weld in food grade plants a lot of the sch 5 tubing we fuse weld only. No use of filler. It has plenty of strength
Real life work real life AWESOME!🤟😎👍
Purdy work . And a nice set up and shop . :)
Yeah, loving this video series. Its exactly what I was after as a part-time TIG welder transitioning over from doing everything MIG. Thanks for taking the time to do the video, and special thanks for the written explanations as well - my welding note book is now full of amp settings, flow rates and setup tips...! Just ordered some laZYr CK tungstens in 1.6mm to start me off on my autogenous welding journey (a 2.5" exhaust is first cab off the rank). So, once again, thanks Kane for posting this series, I think we all really appreciate it.
Awesome video!! Love watching your vids. You teach us that are getting into tig welding what to do. Will this type of tig welding work for like a motorcycle exhaust?
Just tested this style on 3" 304l 1.5mm wall tube, no bevel just zero gap butt. Did piecut turndown exhaust tip and it turned out practically the same as in the video. Stepping distance had to be quite far apart what I'm used to, because the molten pool would solidify by much larger area when the pulse reverts to background current time. The push angle really needs to be about that dramatic, and it made no sense at first when I tried but the results were impressive. Flat, no concave or undercut and root was pretty nice for first time try. 1.3Hz was the sweet spot for me to be consistent. Awesome video! Gonna do some more practice and dial in the settings to suit myself best.
Excellent Finish...
Awesome video and awesome welder
Finally, someone who can weld the right way! no walking the cup, puls gives a nicer weld!
yes true, but why is there such weak burn-through on the inside of the tube?
Friggin bad azzzz welding brudtha , I’m a fan … wish I could learn to weld , that’s on my bucket list 👍🏻
I learnt to tig weld with a basic DC inverter from youtube videos. After 5 days i was doing 90° pie cut bends from 2" Stainless tube.. Its not rocket science the hardest part is finding enough time and gas to practice enough haha i finished a big bottle of argon in a week 🤣
Sweet vid, (regular pauses 👍) cool to see you tack up 100, I’ve been doing 50A but, maybe double the the arc time 0.5 sec I usually tack opposites side of the tube to avoid it pulling the joint open. We do all sanitary and usually picture volume of tube as equivalent milk cartons and run gas to suit the estimated amount of milk cartons (looks like 10Litres run at 20l/min for 45 sec to be safe) then match gases in and out for purge or with the inside being slightly under to reduce pressure buildup if the exit hole is small. Appreciate the vids you guys do mint work. Props, keep up the good work
Thanks for commenting the pre purge tip! That’s a great example! Let me know how the flash tacks work for you!
fantastic work man! I've been at it for 40 yrs and still love to see deals like this. Love the no filler wire. I've done a few such has this myself but the 61 yr old shake bites me more than a few times. Sometimes I can make the shake work for me! Keep up the great work Kid! looking forward to seeing more!
That’s awesome! Thank you!
Awesome! Im currently doing this with my Harley Exhaust
Killer video bro! That section of pure pie at 12:21 make a man sick of seeing pie cuts and Thanksgiving is just around the corner! 🤢💨🔥🌈 That LAYZR tungsten is no joke! I first got some when I needed 1 mm and I could only find that in place of my 2% lanthanated. I was really surprised by its ability to take the DC current beyond most others with the tip intact and the tip does stay sharp, I love it on DC down to 3A. I was curious about low current AC using the 1mm LAYZR tungsten; 25A to 5A smoked the tip into a huge ball. 😫 Good stuff you got here and that Daihen unit was a surprise to me too!
Quality hasil akhir pengelasan tig ny 👍🤝 my from indonesia 🇮🇩
Nice job
There's been many of Tig Welder contract skin cancer from years of Tig welding with exposed skin. That arc is 30 times brighter then the sun.
👍🏼 Read my post about this in the community tab.
@@KANEKIDWELDS Where is the "Community tab" ?
At the top of my page where the tabs are. *at your own risk* UV protection
Good job son. 👍
Love your work dude, 👌 question how strong is auto genius for exhaust?
You're one bad dude 👍
I wonder what kind of people dislikes this vid. Pure hard work out into them! 🤜🤛
Pretty sure from chumps that can't weld.
People who can't do it.
Awesome
Great video I would like to know ur settings for pulse and non pulse thin stainless material
Maestro 😎💥💥💥💪💪💪
Thx for the valuable info man quality video. I'm trying to design my own exhaust for a civic and have a question. It has alot to do with the tune of the car but is there not a design of exhaust to help make the crackle pop and or backfires? Like a specific shape or something like that to achieve that? I have read it has to do with low and high pressure zones created in the exhaust and fluid cavitation. I know its not some peoples style but I love a good gunshot backfiring exhaust.
From my experience with motorcycles its 99% determined by your fuel/air mixture and your ignition timing
Another great video. I'm noticing on my own parts, even with the "extreme push angle" you spoke of, many of my welds were somewhat concave. Perhaps I was a bit too hot? Tube was .065 wall 321 ss.
Try backing off the peak amperage, and traveling a bit slower to give the joint a stronger shrink between pulses. What is your purge setup?
@@KANEKIDWELDS almost exactly the same as you except I made my own silicone plugs in a plastic cup with a two part pourable silicone mold making compound.
@@KANEKIDWELDS thanks for responding so quickly. I'll try backing off the peak.👍
An artist with a tig gun!!! Funny thing there's no filler rod used?
Depends on thickness and you can only do that with pulse settings
Ice looking welds. Did you need to use filler rod. Thanks
Newer welder here. I have two questions; 1: I was told that multiple starts and stops in any kind of pipe welding led to weak spots and potential pin holes. Is that true? 2: I see your welds are rainbow colored on the outside. I have been told that a golden/hay color on the outside was a good indicator of a good weld that was the right temp, not too hot. Is that also true?
What are your thoughts on PAPR systems like Optrels? Thanks for your vids! Might buy that collab welder you made some time!
also, have you ever used 6061's tig button? curious if you have any review on it
is it a hagglund? nice job by the way
just fuse welded and no filler wire?
Have a question. What is that machine that U use when you clean up the dirty pipe outside?
What amps are you running for 16ga stainless pipe @kanekid?
is everything pulsed and fused together with no rod?
do you think fuse welding exuast components like this with full penetration is strong enough for high boost applications? or would you reccoment using filler
I’ve only tested this type of sanitary welding up to 800psi and never had an issue. How high? I do not recommend this technique unless the operator has passes procedure without undercutting or underfill/concave profile.
Nice
Is the reason you're not using filler that the gaps are so small (fitment so good)?
Hey Kane, I worked in the sanitary process piping trade for 12 years. Some of your welds look convex? We always made sure we had positive to neutral purge pressure. I the dairies convex welds don’t clean well so bacteria builds up.
I believe industry standards are different for what he is doing tho, sanitary is less about aesthetics and more about integrity/cleanliness...just saying, he thinks ALOT and is critical about his own work. I'm guessing u try to do the same
@@DCweldingAndArt flat welds are always more aesthetically pleasing.
This is how I do for structured autogenous welds (exhaust) I’ve already explained how and why in the previous 2 clips. This is to emulate filler without using any.
@@KANEKIDWELDS same with sanitary welds. Butt welds no filler usually 45-55 amps with straight dc lift arc welder. Love S.S. Welding. It’s so clean.
@@KANEKIDWELDS Hey mate. What is the strength like compared to using filler rod? Love your work btw. Looking to upgrade from a scratch start to a full featured Tig in the next few days.
Mad work as usual! I heard autogenous welds for turbo dump pipes are risky as they're prone to cracking due to the massive amounts of heat produced by the turbo, but perhaps able to use that welding technique further down the exhaust where there is less heat which is fine. Is this actually the case, or is it ok to autogenous weld the full exhaust from turbo back without risk of failure?
Stainless grades like 309, 316L, 316H, and RA330, Hastelloy are perfectly suited to extreme high temperature use. My guess is this material is 304L, which will also withstand a great deal of stress at extreme temperatures. The only thing better would be the stainless grades I mentioned above.
can you explain why you chose to not use filler metal ? Im starting to weld my first SS exhaust and am NOOB
No filler material.. Mmmmh With vibrations some weld may crack?
👏👍
Just wondering what the pulse settings are....
Hi Kane, was that pulse 2 times per second at 85A-5A??
I accidentally cut the wrong part out...16ga material - 1.4pps, 85peak amps, 40-45% peak amp on time, & 15%background amps. The OTC reads 05 on the display screen, but I think it’s the Lowest capable amp start. I think it drops with smaller electrode diameter, and sometimes it reads 06 when I have a frosty electrode.
@@KANEKIDWELDS thanks mate. Greatly appreciated
how do you do this i have tryed so many times with 308 stainless with no filler and with pulse on but i cant seam to get it right
I also see you are using the roll up sleeve method. Working on ridding yourself of a farmers tan. Innovation!
Any difference in strength or crack resistance between this and adding filler?
If it’s welded out matching the specifics I’ve shown, then there is virtually no difference in integrity of either process. If the fit up isn’t square and flush, then undercutting or under filling could happen due to operator. The EMF will pull the weld towards the tungsten as the puddle cools and amperage decreases (same effect as a crater fill setting, or when the filler balls up and jumps to the tungsten instead of falling into the puddle) and the weld area will shrink together as the puddle temperature decreases. If you’re traveling too fast with this pulse technique or amps too high, it can cause underfill, or a droopy faced weld, which can be easily corrected with more push angle, less amperage input, or too high pulse background amperage.
@@KANEKIDWELDS Great to know, thanks for the info. Next time I build an exhaust I'm not adding filler... assuming I can get it to fit up properly lol. Just fixed my buddies magnaflow that had little spider cracks all over it. Pretty sure they used the wrong gas when they mig welded it... they shipped it out full of porosity. Don't buy magnaflow!
Thanks
I’ve always wondered if welding like this has ever become a problem? Ever had a weld fail or break when not using filler? Def allows for better looking welds without it. With perfect fit up this is probably much more feasible.
I've always wondered the same things here - i'm still relatively new only a year in tig welding stainless mostly for cosmetic or low strength applications (lucky enough to be trained up in a small business) but still no clue ...all i can say though is 90% of the welds i have repaired that broke were the ones done with no filler...especially the ones done on stainless rod frames that have massive undercut as well 😨😨😂😂😂
He is not filling any gaps and as long the welds are not below the base metal, root or face , the weld should not be weaker.
For materials under 3mm thickness, and especially butt welds, autogenous welds are very strong. And it is used in industry welding of fuel and hydraulic lines and in food industry as it makes for cleaner flatter welds, Filler is just that filler. If the fit is good there is nothing to fill. And filler adds more crevices for bacteria to grow or requires extra work to sand down. Good puddle control with autogenous welds will give you a silky smooth bead profile and solid fusion of both parent metals.
If you have a a snug,flush fit with zero gaps then fusing is fine for something like an exhaust pipe that gets bolted in place and won't bounce around.
im curious to know what type of pressures these welds would ultimately eventually fail at, over using filler wire.. great looking welds! i work full time in stainless fabrication but nobody i work with has the technical knowledge im always curious about- mainly sheet and sq. tubing
What in the world was that rig this exhaust went on? It's unusual for sure!
It’s called a sisu nasu, if I’m correct. It’s a foreign(to🇺🇸) personnel transporter that SMCO retrofit a 12v turbo cummins into & customized.
@@KANEKIDWELDS We used those to tow mortars in Finnish army 02
pls dont hate me for this question. im new and i want to learn. why no filler rod for this? i though one needed that.
I’m showing what you can do without it, by using an unconventional technique that may provide same, or better results.
@@KANEKIDWELDS ok. not that i think it looks worse or anything(it looks really good), just that thought filler rod was needed.
You dont get burns on your biceps when you weld without long shirt. I always do, so thats why im not weliding without long shirt anymore
This was during summer in the diesel bros shop, no AC and extremely hot inside. I would spray high spf sunscreen on my arms every 45mins or so & seemed to be protected well doing so. I don’t practice the sunscreen method ever anymore since I’ve designed & launched my Arc Defence™ line of fitted welding sleeves and PPE at KANEINDUSTRIES.co
Get a bucket of water and a rag to cool as you go. The water will evaporate quickly and keep thermal expansion manageable reducing overall stress in the part. Nice craftsman ship btw
That’s a cool tip!
is that a custom made purge line ?
guessing fitment is the key
What's your pulse rate and amps for welding exhausts
I covered that info in Stainless Autogenous - Part 1 & 2
Hey yo, long sleeves!
Excellent as always Rush. Loving all the info you are adding. Must be a bitch to edit, but greatly appreciated.👍🏻👍🏻
Oh man your hand burn Cover it!
is there a reason you do not use filler rod please?
How strong are autogenous exhaust joints? Are they reliable?
They’re just as strong as the rest of the metal. The only difference between autogenous welds and regular welds is that you aren’t adding extra metal to the joint. On non-structural welds, such as these exhaust joints, and the fit up is as close and solid as this setup, you’re basically just melting the two pieces of metal together using the existing material, making this just as strong as the rest of the material.
@@THESKINIMIN1234 Thanks for the info. So my next question is, why ever use filler on exhaust? Seems more cost efficient to just do autogenous period.
@@exhaustsauce Mainly fit-up, without a very tight fit-up the joint will open up into a keyhole much like welding an open root on pipe. Also without filler sometimes the welds can become concave or sunken in, which in turn would affect the integrity of the joint. On the topic of cost, I think the cost of fill rod would be negligible in comparison to the price of a custom job like this.
@@ScottJ2486 appreciate that 🙏
What hood do you prefer kanekid?? 👍🏻❤️
I’m all about Speedglas. The best recommendation for a professional entry/budget would be the 9002NC, which has true color and precision clarity, as well as breath exhale ventilation. For the best ergonomics and everyday professional use, the 9100xxi is top. The 9100xxi and the 9002nc arc filters have the same technology and are optically identical. The 9100xxi has a slightly bigger view, auto on/off, + more adjustability. The pivot points on the 9100 are incredibly balanced and sit back at or behind the ears, so the weighted downforce of the helmet itself eliminates neck strain over long periods of wear. The side windows of the 9100 allow more awareness and feeling of openness which is very nice. This is my go-to over anything. For extreme, dirty, contaminated, or heavy duty welding I have the G5-01 VC w/ Adflo Air Supply. This helmet is absolutely incredible but not the most practical for typical everyday use. This helmet is completely modular and can be set up however needed with added protection features to external work lighting systems. The VC filter allows the color contrast to be changed at the tap of a button, or by a helper controlling the settings remotely via Bluetooth app connectivity. The colors are warm (orange/red), neutral (literally no color, just being able to see the raw arc), and cool color (the standard blue/green true color contrast widely available). All of the contrast colors are very useful, especially switching between processes. The g5-01 has every shade from 8-14 and flips up to be used as a grinding helmet. The air supply can be precisely controlled to aim the air wherever needed inside the helmet. My new favorite is the G5-02, which I have been testing for 2 years, (see my latest story post here to see it in action) and will be available on the US market next year. The g5-02 is the first ultra-wide CURVED glass auto darkening filter to exist in the welding industry, and I can’t even describe how amazing it is. It’s the neutral colorless lens and gives 120° of view to the user, with a light state shade of 2.5(which actually seems more like a 1.5-2) and you can actually see the details on the edge of a paper through it. It’s insanely HD crispy clear and the shell is super light. This helmet has proven to be the absolute best for cage welding and tight spaces, and the peripheral edges of the lens don’t sacrifice any quality or clarity. This also has the Bluetooth app connectivity to control and track information. I love all of these helmets for exactly what they are, and use them all.
Right on.. just curious what you recommend. I just picked up a optrel crystal 2.O after trying one out at Justin’s class in Las Vegas.. just wondering if there are better hoods. Only have one set of eyes
I’ve tried some friends optrels/fronius hoods and they have what I consider to be the closest high definition clarity next to Speedglas. The Miller helmets are the top tier worst I’ve used & have given me the most trouble, but they’re a welder company, not a dedicated ppe company.
👍🏻👍🏻 greatly appreciate the info sir
How come you are not on the DB show?
well.. not bad, not bad.. but the greatest welders on yt use a transparent cup with at least 2inch diameter 🤣🤣
No Filler. All these welds will be undercut. But still strong enough to do the job.
I’ve clearly showed in the video that they are not undercut at all. Watch the first video showing details and the information how.
Why is there no need for you to use filler rod?
Maybe one of these days there will be some talking from this guy.
Why no filler ?
😂
Could you build me an exhaust?
Pulse weld
That's some serous weld porn you've got going on there, nice job.
Thanks!
Also known as fusing.
Ici en France il est proscrit de Descendre au au TIG qui plus est en autogène, et la couleur bleue violette indique une mauvaise soudure,, trop chauffée la bonne couleur est dorée/rose
Bende bu işi yapıyorum Türkiye'den ihtiyacınız olurmu profosyonel bir isciligim ve isim var çalışmak icin
Why no filler? - imma rookie
Ну да, ну да, имея такое оборудование и хотя бы средний интерес к своей работе, можно и ногами научиться так же варить. Вы посмотрите как сварщики в СССР варили, на спор консервные банки друг к другу обычной трансформаторной сваркой сваривали, без протечки воды , а некоторые умельцы умудрялись это делать ногами.К моему сожалению, я застал не многих из таких людей.
creo que no esta bien que sueldes en manga corta,dás mal ejemplo a los que están aprendiendo
Aint u missing something?????..... where TF is your filler rod????
Ain’t missing nothin’ bud. If you read the caption, it’s very obvious what to expect.
Why do welders not cover their arms up?? Skin cancer is a certain here.
I was wondering why your material sucked so much oxygen with that huge ass cup. Now I see with that ridiculous push angle. Coming rom automated code work definitely not good practice in my opinion but hey if it’s just exhaust carry on.