Differential Restoration - BMW 210mm - E31 E34 E36 E38 E39 E46
2023 ж. 15 Сәу.
9 346 Рет қаралды
Here i rebuild a 210mm diff for an E34 540i
Koyo Bearings used. Pinion preload set to 2nm. Everything torqued to spec
Gear pattern checked but no need for adjustment.
Process is the same for all BMW big diffs of this era including E32, E36, E39 E38 and E46. If the diff has limited slip, there are more steps to the rebuild.
If you want to support my car parts addiction you can donate 5 dollars here:
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Perfekt 👍
Hello Tim, I again watched this video: first, it encourages me :) and second to memorize the steps, so it should be easy when I start to overhaul my diff (TYPE 188 from E34 525). But first thing I need to order hydraulic press. Can you please tell me what tonnage press you used to remove the pinion shaft? I will buy the same tonnage hydraulic press as it should be enough.
Hi. Thank you. Im happy i can help. You dont need a press. If you hammer on the threaded end of the pinion it will slowly but sure come out. Just dont hammer directly on the pinion end/threads. Use a block of wood or a solid piece of alumimum between the hammer and the pinion. That way you wont destroy the pinion. Its definitely possible just harder
Thank you for your response. Indeed I can remove it with the brass hammer. But when it comes to assembling, I want to do it properly (4 bearings to be installed) I am afraid I cannot go without the press. That is why I wanted to know the minimum tonnage of the press. Additional question: Do you know what is the gap (backlash) between pinion and sun gear in this 210 diff?
Saved for future, very impressive walkthrough, how did you learn this? You personally
From this guy here I Will Never Be As GOOD As My Father kzhead.info/sun/h7CEqN5wap6df58/bejne.html
Hello, thank you for this very useful video, it is very instructive. I have type 188 diff and need to replace the pinion flange on it (the one on the diff is large, I have to install a smaller flange, where the distance between the holes is 80mm). The problem that I faced was how to torque it?! I cannot put marks on the nut and the end of the shaft, as the smaller flange is shorter 1cm in length, so the nut will go further and the marks will not match. I also do not know what was the initial final torque on the nut. Can you please advise how to torque the nut in my case?
Hi Jalal. Thank you for the kind words When swapping the pinion flange youre correct you cant use the markings anymore. I havent done this comversion myself but id do as you have suggested yourself. Have the pinion nut tightened to around 1nm and then check the gearpattern. Theoretically the gearpattern should be the same if you do this but id doubble check just to be sure If you look in the video i show what the preload is for different brands of bearings too. Maybe 1nm is not quite enough. Maybe its a bit too much. But my guess is it would be alright. But check the video to crosscheck your bearing manufacturers recommended preload Dont be afraid to overtighten the crush sleeve. It is in fact reuseable if you dont make a habit of crushing it too much. You just need to prolong it again slightly if you happen to tighten it too much. I think i show very briefly in the video as well how to reuse the crush sleeve by finding a socket that the crush slevve fits almost percetly on and then just lightly tapping on the bulge og the crushsleeve on all 360degrees as well. Might take some time but it will lengthen/straighten out
Hello Tim, Thank you again. I successfully replaced the pinion flange and installed 188 diff onto the car. But in the end, I could achieve my final goal - to have a diff without mechanical play. Could you please advise what can cause a such play? satellites? I made a short video to show the problem (NOTE: wheels are on the ground, blocked, left/right output shafts have a tiny play) kzhead.infoHrHUIheRIDs when the diff was off the car, I checked it again, by blocking the side flanges. There is no radial play on the flanges, only rotational (side flanges also have a little axial play) kzhead.infoxvQporrq-VI
@@jalalaliyev3325 that looks like excessive play between the crownwheel and the pinion. Have you driven it yet?
@@OEMplusRESTO yes, it was on the car when I bought the car. all is fine, no leak, no "humming bearings, Just when I switch from P to D or to R (N), it kicks. Also at high speed when I release gas rapidly, it kicks as well.
do you know how to fix it?
I wanted to try rebuild my old diff from bmw e46 by myself but it is hard to find reliable source of information. How do i adjust gear pattern if it doesn't match? How do i know when play between ring gear and pinion is set right so it doesn't clunk, but also doesn't produce premature wear and how do i set it? Does pinion preload adjust all of it?
If youre not switching the actual gears then 9/10 times just re-using the shims and putting them in where they came out is sufficient for a correct pattern on the diff IF you get the preload correct first, which is tricky by itself but not hard as such. Id have gone by feel witj pinion preload, but did fuck up once with an e46 diff i converted into lsd unit once, so now i use a bicycle beam torque wrench as they are the only torque wrenches that measure that small of a resistance without costing a fortune. If you change gears you first need to set the pinion depth (and preload) then the crownwheel side-to-side until the pattern matches. All done using shims(which are very expensive and hard to find) Generally, how the crown wheel and pinion makes contact, if its high or low (toe or heel) you change the pinion depth. Then you can move the patterin in/out (closer pr further away towards the pinion gear flange) You should check out my “ill never be as good as my father” video for more details. It will show you what happens when pinion preload(and thus piniom depth) isnt correct, and how the pattern moves when i correct it by simply tightening the pinion nut for more preload. That should give you a better understanding. Hope it helps:-)
@@OEMplusRESTO Thank you so much for such detailed response! I'll check your another video
@jurijowsienko anytime. Im here to share my hobby and hopefully help others out along the way
Does the nut for the preload needs thread lock
I would do so:)
in deutscher sprache wäre ich sehr dankbar
Nicht sprechen deutch entachuldigung
😁😁👍@@OEMplusRESTO
hi there, thank you for your great video, do you think it's be ok to replace the diff unit 3.15 to 3.91?
Thanks for watching. Yes definitely if you want more acceleration. It will give lower topspeed though.
@@OEMplusRESTO I drive the BMW Z3 2.8 manual, I just got the diff unit 3.91 from the bmw 1997 328i automatic with 3.91 diff unit. . I have an idea to replace unit 3.15 to 3.91 But I don't know it's gonna work or not.
@@armenianman5826 i dont think the e36 units fit in the z3