I took your advice and bought a Harbor Freight sandblasting cabinet
With our ongoing series restoring mountain bikes, repainting and finishing individual parts has been a time consuming process. With a sandblasting cabinet, we can totally rip the paint off of whatever we want in minutes! It was in the last bike hacks video that some commenters suggested this product, and you can't beat it for the cost.
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For anyone who does DIY projects, I couldn't help but smile when the cabinet hit the bench top. I can relate. All you can do is laugh and figure out a hack to make it work.
This is basically how software development gets done too
And I knew 100% how Seth is gonna solve it! 😂
i’ve run into these kind if problems one to many times indeed
I'm glad he included it into the video I probably wouldn't have posted it but I guess after me smiling I should if I do that lol
@@elorz007 that's engineering, they say it will work, we tell them no, they say do it, we do it. We tell them it didn't work. They say oh.. Then we do it the right way🤣
For soft metals, instead of sand, use Soda (Sodium Bicarbonate, you know, baking soda). Can buy "industrial grade" bags of it darn cheap, and it won't roughen up your finish so bad
Horror Fraught has walnut shell media, so for $30 I think this would be the first thing to try in the blast cabinet. HF also has soda blasters. IDK if soda works in normal sand blasters? The REALLY 'cool' thing is dry-ice blasting, but that equipment is NOT cheap. And as always, remember that breathing dust from sand or glass is not so good.
@@oapfu Soda works fine, but you do need to modify your collection process and run a cyclone catch before the shop vac (which is a good idea even with sand). Using something like a dust deputy or the like to convert a 5 gal bucket for that size is fine, as well as have a way to regulate the soda, which is cheap and simple with a couple brass fittings, gate valve and some extra tubing.
Or for soft metals like aluminum or stainless steel use glass bead i sand blast for a living and I blast a lot of good grade stainless steel that can’t be pitted bad
In one of Seth’s videos, he uses baking soda and the way he says “baking soda, I got baking soda” is the funniest thing ever
@@oapfu dry ice blasting should definitely be done in a place with good ventilation.
I relate so hard when you said “I’ve owned this for 24 hours so naturally I’ve sandblasted everything i own” 😂
The truth!
As I was watching this I immediately started making a mental list of things I need to sandblast.
Hehehe... Here Kitty
As an individual who basically sandblasts everyday (part of the job) I recommend a few upgrades to the harbor freight cabinet. First, silicone all the seams Second a steel pickup tube Third a gun with a tungsten carbide nozzle Check out McMaster Carr or a local abrasives distributor. Get rid of that 80g aluminum oxide in favor of 120g or finer. (Especially for bike parts) “Glass bead #8” will give a bright satin surface finish And ground cherry pits can remove paint from carbon fiber without damaging the carbon. 🤔🤯 Enjoy your new toy.
How can I get a job sandblasting every day sounds fun what do u do
@@flowerasteroid6241 I’m an operations supervisor for a thin film vacuum coating machine manufacturer and job shop. We use and sell our machines to produce a carbon based, hard, wear resistant film that the industry calls “DLC”. We sandblast to remove this film from the machine parts in order to reuse them for the next process. We also use the sandblasting machines to prepare the surfaces of customer parts before process. Different media produces a different appearance. Our coating is conformal, so the sandblasted surface prep can visually change the appearance of the finished customer part. From matte to polished. Sounds fun. But it’s very tedious and detail oriented work. I also love building and riding fancy bicycles 😎 Basically if you want to sandblast all day look for a job in machine shop, powder coating or industrial thin film coating.
@@elithe240guy you definitely sound like you know what youre talking about thank you lol
@@flowerasteroid6241 lol 🙃
I s
I can totally picture seth becoming a hermit in his garage and all he does is sandblast obscure bike parts
I mean I would too lol
Hell ! He already lives out there
Just a single master link
*Maniacal laughing intensifies*
He already laughs like Master Roshi.
Pro tip: line the inside of the viewing window with plastic wrap to keep it from abrading.
yep, it came with a bunch of those, like downhill goggles have, but we edited out that part for brevity
@@BermPeakExpress I just want to say that you got me into mountain biking, and made me spend $1300 on a new bike! THANK YOU SO MUCH!!
@@samuelmorris2450 They get more expensive the more you buy so look out for that. Having said that, i must say that my first full sus bike cost me £1200 in 2018. over £1000 and 4 years later and I now have a fully custom Vitus Escarpe worth £2250
@@samuelmorris2450 you got away cheap. Just dropped $3000 on a new Norco because it was available at my bike shop. I don’t regret buying any of my bikes. Regret selling a couple though. There are worst ways to spend money. Just go and ride it now, and make it worth every penny.
@@TraceyAllen Yeah... I was looking at some full sus bikes and I decided that I wanted a hardtail that I could throw around before spending over 2k on a bike. Also, I can't believe that I got so many replies so soon.
[Mechanical Design Engineer] Most chainrings are a 6061-T6 Aluminum, which are Type II sealed anodized after machining. Anodization is a plating process to prevent surface oxidation (corrosion) of the Aluminum. Most common color for anodization is black, but you can anodize in a huge variety of colors. When you blast the parts you are both removing this surface plating and changing the surface roughness of the part to varying extents depending on your blasting medium. Most bicycle chains are a carbon steel (much harder than aluminum). So the new aluminum surface will wear down to a smooth interface over time, but for a short time will add slightly more wear to the new chain during the break-in period - after installing the new chainring, clean the chain and sprockets excessively to remove the aluminum particulate being created to minimize wear. During blasting take caution not to excessively wear the teeth - they will be interfacing with the chain anyway and you want maximum engagement between the teeth on the sprocket and the chain to reduce uneven loading (which could lead to breakage in the chain). After blasting you will need a new surface treatment to prevent surface oxidation. Common "at home" methods might be powder coating or painting, However neither of these are a chemical bond, to they will be more prone to chipping/flaking during use. A very mild surface texture will actually help the powdercoating/painting from chip-out. Hope that helps. - J.
Thanks for this comment. Very interesting read that should have gotten more engagement. Love the technical outlook.
PRO TIP : when you're finished blasting, pull the gloves inside out and let them hang down on the outside of the cabinet. They will last twice as long and it's kinda gross sticking your hands back into soggy rotting gloves. You're welcome 😊
Also, spiders. No sudden surprises!
@@R2robot galaxy brain tip
Top tier tip. I'll definitely be doing this from now on.
@@sethstewart9704 you could just get some cheap cotton gloves liners.
@@pingpong12429 Meh, Still not a bad idea. The cotton will get skanky, too.
Not exactly what I thought I would be watching today, but as always you have your way of making it entertaining!
Seth is some sort of young Jeremy Clarkson / James May / Richard Hammond, his art is communication, the bikes/cars are just a prop
As an engineer I wouldn't recommend sand blasting structural parts or hardened surfaces. Sand blasting is great for insensitive parts for quick and visually pleasing results. But especially on soft metals like aluminium you can remove a non insignificant amount of material quite quickly. Additionally, the rough surface weakens the corrosions resistance and mechanical properties further. In rebuilds and restoration off high end cars and chassis we use dry ice blasting or professional chemical paint stripping. That being sad, you can get softer sodium bicarbonate or nutshell particles which are great for cleaning parts without being too harsh even on softer surfaces.
“A non insignificant amount” A.K.A. A significant amount 😄
@@mrkthmn hahaha :D. Yeah I am German, we like our "Doppelte Verneinung "
M539 Restorations sand blasts even manifolds, water pumps etc
@@MousemanLV well I would say thats fine in most cases. But I would never blast any structural chassis parts especially on modern cars with space frame, shell or composite construction.
Ex wet blasting R&D engineer, you're very right, will definitely strip off any anodising, compromise the resin layer of carbon fibre and may blow through case hardening in the case of gears, not clued up on how exact bike components are finished but definitely something to consider
Hi, Seth, here is a tip for you: If you are sandblasting a metal part and you want to make it black/matte black you can use bluing liquid and it works flawlessly. It also saves weight, because you are not really painting, but you are oxidizing (not rusting) the metal, and it also prevents rusting :)
Bluing only works on steel, not aluminum. And depending on the type of steel there could be issues as well, common liquid blue doesn't work on stainless. Bluing alone doesn't prevent rust, it is a specific, controlled oxidization of the steel instead of a standard iron oxide rust forming on its own. normally there is a layer of oil rubbed into a blued part to protect it because bluing alone doesn't cut it There are other processes out there to turn other metals black ish but they aren't bluing. Brass black is supposed to work ok, some people I know used it on old paintball markers.
@@theshadows620 Cerakote is a good alternative. has become very popular in the gun industry to replace liquid blue. it's similar to powder coating, in that it's sprayed and baked on, but it's liquid, so it works on pretty much anything that can handle some time in the oven.
We had a sandblaster in my highschool metal shop class. I used to use it to sandblast parts all the time. I sandblaster my FBM sprocket and it came out just like yours. And yes, the teeth smoothed out from the chain in no time. Worked great, looked swift. Enjoy!
Hey Seth, try GLASS BEADS if you can get some. For restoring, deep cleaning and restoring parts. Won’t etch the metal like sandblast with coarse grit. I am a dental technician and we use both for different purposes in the lab. You would have to clean the bin each time though, or buy a second blaster. The other option, poor man’s cleaning medium is baking soda!
I know this isn't how it works, but I had a flash of a guy strapped to a table with a sandblaster strapped to his mouth. Kids, make sure you brush those braces or else...
Yep! also walnut shells work great especially on acrylic.
Oh! You said "GLASS beads"... welp, that's going to be an embarrassing ride.
So glad to see someone mention glass beads ! Lol
In addition to glass beads keep the pressure lower for softer materials. We have a great big sandblasting cabinet at work (its got a 5 foot rotating tray inside) and we use glass bead media. Works great on iron/steel parts but we still have to lower the pressure and media flow when we need to strip aluminum or copper. It removes paint slower but your have less chance of removeing more than the minimum amount of metal. Also be aware that even glass beads will frost polished machine fits if you hit them with the sand blaster. Expect that you'll need to repolish anything you want to be shiny afterwards. If we need to be really gentle on a small part we just throw it in a vibration tumbler with corncob media. Just let it run over night and check them in the morning. repeat as needed till its clean. Does really well on small brass parts.
Hi Seth, try to hit the surface in an angle of 45° instead of 90°. It’ll take of the paint better without damaging the surface underneath it. If you want a (kind of) shiny finish you can use glas beads. At least that’s what I use as a dental technician and dentist for cleaning up different alloys. Cheers from Germany!
Blasting glass beads? I knew i hated going to the dentist.
Most people answered this already but here are two tips. 1. Use walnut shell media to strip surface rust without damaging more delicate metals. 2. Get a dust-buster cyclone attachment that fits on a 5 gallon bucket. They sell them at home depot and it will save your shop vac from being clogged up with sand blasting media. It acts as a dust separator and it makes a big difference.
4:50 Toolmaker here. Ideally after a sanding like that we usually put parts in a wet deburr machine, that's basically just a tumbler that cycles your parts in wet and soapy small stones, for a few hours to both soften the finish from the sanding and to give it a final clean. After that they're given a quick dip in regular water, to clean off the soaps, and an anti-rust mixture to keep the parts nice for longer.
The raceface chainrings are made out of aluminium, which is a soft metal. In order to not wear out, they are "Hard anodized", which gives them a metallic look as well as a very hard and durable surface. By sandblasting it, you've just removed that hard anodized layer, making that chainring completely useless. I would not recommend sandblasting parts that have functionnal surfaces. If a surface has a mechanical use, it is probably the way it is for a reason. You can mask off the part you don't want to touch with tape, that works pretty well. Exemples of functionnal surfaces : bearing seats, threads, the parts that touch the chain of the chainrings, precise holes (through axles, pivot bolts etc) ...
that’s great to know! I’m wondering though, what happens when the chain itself wears off the hard anodized layer on the teeth? Is there something beyond the “color” that’s making it harder?
That’s a good question for some Material Science engineers that I work with. They won’t be able to do any testing due to liability issues.
I would have to disagree, considering the anodization (which is 0.0005" to 0.002" thick) on the bearing surface of a chain ring wears off in half a dozen, or so, rides. Also, the rollers of a chain do not rub against the chainring, they only sit upon it, while the chain links rub against the rollers. Sandblasting does create some pitting, which will wear down faster than a perfectly flat surface. Calling it "rendered useless" is a gross exaggeration. I would say a 10-15% reduction in life expectancy of the the chainring is more reasonable.
I agree about bearing seats and threads though, since sandblasting does change the dimension of those precisely machined interfaces
@@BermPeakExpress Once that's gone, teeth wear out quicker and you replace the part. If you take the advice of soda blasting, instead of sand blasting, you'll be less likely to strip the "hard coat" (Type III anodization). That said... yeah, probably shouldn't be blasting it at all, unless you plan on re-anodizing it yourself (after an acid wash). That's of course assuming that the part you're blasting has Type III anodization -- it could just be Type II (color coat), if it's a cheap one.
(I’m an engineer) It all comes down to your sand blasting material and choosing the correct one. A softer material should be used on softer parts. So it really depends on your part for what medium you choose. I can imagine that a sprocket would be heat treated at least on the teeth (at least that’s what my plant does to our sprockets). So it’s most likely alright and if there are any rough edges on the teeth then they’d wear as they usually would. If this turns out to be untrue and you do run into issues later you should let us know.
Materials engineer here. If the sprocket is aluminum, nothing will happen to the chain, which is made from steel (see Mohs scale). The chain in combination with sand that gets into it from the trails will smooth out the contact parts. Should have no influence at all on the lifetime of the sprocket.
@@daghorin somehow I missed when he said aluminum although I should’ve probably assumed that from a performance part. Thank you for your input 👍
@@hetrickracing1249 It was near the end of the video, nearly missed it as well :D
Will the chain ring take most of the wear and the sand break down and "fall" out? I am imagining the wheel on a surface grinder. I just started machining courses, so Im not very knowledgeable.
@@andrewgould8924 Well in terms of a bike there will be little wear ideally due to lubricants. The sand is coming from the mud you ride through and will wear both chain and ring. If you ride without lube the chain will pretty quickly wear down the sprocket. I am not sure I explained that well, but if you have any further questions, just ask :D
I can totally relate. Not only when you hit the bench with the cabinet but also when you were blasting everything in sight.
I got this exact model of cabinet as an $85 open-box special. The nice thing about getting it so cheap is that I haven't been afraid to modify the hell out of it.
seths next video: "sand blasting my new bike because why not" love the videos seth
I know we don't measure things around here, but gonna go out on a limb and say it won't fit.
They way he goes “he he he what can i sandblast” at 5:48made me laugh so hard
me too haha that is like something I would be doing and my wife comes in like dude wtf you doing haha.
I too have a HF sandblasting cabinet that I have found to be indispensable for cleaning up small parts and here's a few observations: 1. The HF sandblasting cabinet that I bought fits perfectly on top of a Craftsman rollaway tool box bottom- no need to build a separate stand for it or take up valuable bench space with it. 2. Dust collection is a must- I use a smallish barrel top dust collector which not only evacuates the cabinet from the blast dust for both health and visibility issues but also eliminates the need for periodically replacing the clear plastic window shield. 3. While there is a provision for lighting the inside of the cabinet I found it a whole lot easier to rig a two bulb halogen shop light on the top of the cabinet; having a bright light makes it easier to see all the parts of the work piece that you missed!
Different blast media is as varied as the tools on your wall. You can use different sands, glass beads, walnut shell, baking soda, etc etc etc. Blasting is really well known for creating heat and extreme warping in thin metals. You by mistake used the perfect test for that which is the soda can test. These days wet blasting (called dustless blasting) is used a lot for car sheet metal so that it doesn't ruin the sheet metal. It's a mixture of crushed glass (Not much different than sand) and water shot from a special machine. If you want to get really crazy you can remove rust and corrosion with a special laser, very fun videos to watch.
the soda can is thin enough that even beyond the heating issue I'd have worried about puncturing the metal, thing's like a standard A4 paper sheet but made of aluminum
seths life is what i imagined adulthood to be like when i was a kid
You can seal the seams of the cabinet with caulk to limit the amount of dust that leaks out. Another tip is to rig up a 5 gallon bucket with inlet and outlet tubes, put some water in the bottom of the bucket and then the dust picked up by the vacuum stay in the water not your shop vac filter.
Basically a water filter. Make sure the in and outlet pipes are ABOVE the water (your post made it unclear.) I've got one of those vacuumes that has a water tank that does exactly this and it is badass.
The inlet being under the water can do good in certain applications
@@angrydragonslayer oh? *curious* I know little of this past how my vacuum works. Please enlighten me.
@@singletona082 if you're blasting lead paint (or similar) for example. There's less suction but you're also less likely to get poisoned It's still generally preferred to have it above the water but there are usecases
@@angrydragonslayer Alright ya that tracks. Lead paint kinda scares me.
Hey Seth, I used to own a custom powder coating shop and obviously had a sandblaster. (1) different media in the blaster for different results. For example, crushed walnut shells for when you need to blast something soft or fragile. (2) Be VERY mindful of the dust and definitely get a respirator. Some blast media (sand, in particular) can be carcinogenic when it breaks down as you blast and you don't want to inhale that crap.
Thanks for posting this man! This got me excited about using my dad’s old sandblaster on some bike parts.
note to self never sandblast your nuts unless you plan on spending alot of time polishing them after
😭
I sand blasted a chain ring 10 years ago then painted it black and rode the hell out. Zero issues or crunching noises and the paint stayed on too
THIS IS PEAK SETH! Also we actually use these cabinets in an industrial setting in multiple factories at work. The only modification we do, is use media beads or walnuts vs sand, and we've replace the blasting gun with a nicer gun. nice little cabinet.
5:48 That feeling when you got a new tool and want to try it out and test it on everything.
Really cool to see you adventure the polishing processes of components!
Hey Seth use the sand blaster in a circular motion. It prevents stripes and the end product will turn out better. I learned this at an aviation Machine shop.
VERY entertaining video! So, I brought this cabinet to replace a smaller one I bought from Tractor Supply. How disappointed I was to see the air feed set up, compared to my old one. But, the video made me forget about it briefly, thank you for that.
you could also get a dremel and wire wheel for polishing really fast after you sand blast parts. also you can use electrical tape or soft vinyl like masking tape to blast designs into painted parts :)
For bike parts, I'd recommend soda as the abrasive, you also don't need #80, too coarse and can remove too much base material. Just make sure you do some sort of surface finish after blasting, since the abrasion you caused will expose TONS of new surface to the elements for oxidation and corrosion.
Always a good day when Seth uploads
But annoying when it’s uploading at 1 am on a school night
Ye
@@cranky5784 haha it is 9am for me and I’m on my work break 🤟
I had one of these for years and for the money it worked great yes it was a little messy even when taping app the seems and the vacuum 🤣🤣🤣 I used mine for cleaning engine cases with glass bead media now i just send them out to get soda blasted its so much easier and saves me a ton of time great vid man 🤘
For less abrasive blasting, consider using baking soda. I've used it to polish the valves in my direct injection engine after using walnut shell blast media to remove the built up gunk. The baking soda would work great on bike parts without pitting the part.
Idk if you’re still going hacks vids but a size 3 spoke wrench is the perfect fit to remove a valve core. This might have been super obvious to some people but I just found it out and thought it was pretty cool.
Thanks for the tip! Great to know!
Ha already shown that
I had a buddy who bought a "outdoor media blaster" ( basically a sand blaster with no cabinet ) and he wanted to blast the inside of his old Chevy pickup. I told him " dude, you really don't want to do that. The sand will just fill the inside of your truck up because it just becomes the atmosphere in an enclosed area." His answer was "Im not an idiot, Ill tape off the vents, and vacuum up good afterward." Needless to say , he got rid of the truck after months of getting sand in his mouth every time he drove the truck.😂 Dont do that.
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA DAMN, one of those great "i told you so" moment
But a lot of people with old cabs/car bodies do get them media blasted as part of their resto. Guess you just need the right technique.
@@mrkthmn yes, those guys take the interior OUT to do that, though.
So he never thought to use an air compressor to blow it out? He was already using one with the sandblaster. Not everything you need to sandblast can fit into a cabinet either. I'm not sure what you mean by "becomes the atmosphere". At most it becomes a fine dust that eventually settles. For us people that live near the beach sand in your car is a common occurrence anyway. This idea that it's blowing around in your mouth while you're driving is a new one to me. The whole point of a cabinet is to keep the harmful dust and paint chips away from you and the environment, it's not required to do the job though. Also so you can collect and reuse your media. I sandblast structures/frames I weld on and I just blow the sand out with a blow nozzle on my air compressor. It's actually a regular thing I do because I'm a tradesman and my truck gets dirty. I just open all the doors and blast the inside with my air compressor. 🤷
@@nickstersss It wasn't an I told you so moment actually. It was a "I don't know what I'm talking about but I'm just going to give you advice based on an assumption" moment.
Best thing for sandblasting, old tools! Restore an old hand plane or something! Also, I was so happy when rustoleum came out with clear rattle can paint… I use it all the time when I want a bare metal look. Good stuff.
I just bought this exact sand blaster off craigs list yesterday and this video shows up on the top row on you tube today. Big brother is watching.
been wanting to get one of these for a long time. I imagine they're great for people building up old bikes.
Bruce, don't bother and wait no longer. Here's how you can have one of these tomorrow for 10-15 bucks. Necessity is the mother of invention. Get yourself a sturdy cardboard box of equal size to this cabinet. Buy a piece of plexiglass to use as a window. Buy sturdy tape. I use that air duct metal tape for mine. Cut the box to look like this cabinet and tape it up. Cut a spot for your plexiglass window. Attach it. Cut some holes in the front for your arms. Add a light inside if you want. Cut holes for your air lines and a Shop-Vac (optional) if you want. I built one like this 3 years ago and I use it every single day as a metal fabricator. It shows zero signs of damage. It's so lightweight I can keep it on top of a shelf out of the way and pull it outside whenever I need it.
Sand blasters are fun but if I remember from when I used to use them in work to recondition burner nozzles we were told to clean a lot of the oils and greases off first in order to not clog up the blaster. But they are so good to prep items for paint. Even bike frames can be done (full sussers fully disassembled).
Is that because you were recycling the media and the oils and greases would mix in with the media? Also, how would you get oil and grease out of sand I wonder. I'm just trying to understand how it would clog up the sandblaster.
@@dangerous8333 tbh I’m not to sure why, think it’s more contamination and makes it harder for the media to stick to the surface. Just going off what I was told to do.
Just great entertainment, keep it going. Love the thought that goes in your choice of words.
I've been wanting one for a while now. Your video pushed me over the line.
Walnut Shell 24 Grit Fine Abrasive Media Ideal for cleaning aluminum and brass Harbor Freight
Sandblasted Part quickly start to rust if they're not out of some naturally rust resistent material like aluminium. Make sure to apply rust protection for those soon after sandblasting them. If you want any sort of shiny finish after sandblasting you'll have to smooth the parts down with fine grid sandpaper slowing going up the grid and then polish them
This is my first video from you that I've watched. The editing was fantastic, the content was hilarious and informative!! Definitely 10/10. +1 sub!
The biggest plus I see with getting a cabinet for your situation is that you could prep your pieces for Powder Coat. If you go to you local coater you could ask them when they typically shoot the powder and if you aren't too picky on colors they probably wouldn't charge you too much just to throw on a coat.
Now all you need is a vapor blasting cabinet!!!
never thought id see you commenting on one of seth's videos lol
Or, an ultrasonic cleaner.
Good choice on getting the cabinet. You were half right on the dust being "probably dangerous". The dust is *definitely* dangerous. Harbor freight also sells other blast media like walnut shells that you can use to blast softer metals like aluminum. Bike parts probably are fine but if you ever want to take on a frame, I wouldn't use sand. The clearcoat may flake off from what I've been told (did a lot of reading on blasting a frame to raw Al and clearcoating it, was advised against it for that reason), but you can have it clear powder coated at shops. You might even be able to do it yourself, you'll just need an oven to cure it.
No kidding! Silicosis is a real condition--ditch the sand for something safer.
You can make one of these cabinets just as good out of a cardboard box and a piece of plexiglass. $10-$15. I've used mine daily for almost 3 years as a metal fabricator. Just as airtight and so light I can keep it up on a shelf out of the way.
Good stuff we have one of these at the shop I work at, at my college. It was leaking tons of sand but sealing it with a bunch of permatex gaskest maker from oreileys helped alot
Man you had me at whipping out the jig saw to "adjust" that bench - epic move!! :-D
By watching your videos i upgraded my bike you have an influence on the world I'm in France and thank you
Unrelated but related question. How are the park tool tools held on the wall? Hooks, magnets, magic? Looks so clean, re-watched a bunch of videos and haven't found it.
Finishing nails
For the kind of things you’re looking to clean up you should have invested in a parts cleaning tank. I worked for an auto parts rebuilder years ago and we had one to clean starter and alternator parts. It was a shake tank with some kind of stones and a black cleaning fluid in it (can’t remember exactly what-too long ago) but it removed all kinds of caked on rust, mud, grease and metal filings. They came out looking brand new and did not damage copper, aluminum or cast metal. You do need an exhaust fan because it does put off fumes and can be loud, but does all the work for you. It’s like a washing machine for metals!
I LOVE the ply separators in the husky bins, that’s brilliant
Converted mine into a laminar flow hood for mycology and isolation of yeast strains for brewing mead. Has also been the place to mix dangerous chemicals when I'm experimenting. Saved me thousands of dollars in my home lab.
I thought that the "non descript seltzer" can was going to be a disaster. 😂 Ever tried the "peach pear" variety?
excellent review! gonna buy my father-in-law one for Christmas for his Jeep/Wood shop were setting up for "Retirement" in his barn
Ahhh the humor cracks me up!!!! These videos are awesome! Great work!
You did EXACTLY what I'd do if the sandblaster didn't fit. I straight up giggled
Haha me too! I think all of us have been there before. Probably more than once!
Bench top wire wheel and polishing wheel,, that’s what I would use. A wire wheel on a drill works well too.
The chuckle with every new item being added to cabinet made my day 😃
loved that jigsaw fix. perfectly fine in my eyes. custom fit !
Yes Seth, As a sand blasting expert. It’s a little known fact that the ancient Egyptians accidentally caused a major part of the Euphrates to dry. As we all know from Kindergarten; this is how deserts 🌵 were made. Nah…… I also know nothing. Sweet vid bro!!!!
$150 cabinet and $600 worth of wood in 2022 to mount it on.
Yeahh you had me right when it hit the bench top. Story of my life. Subscribed!
I have a HF sand blast cabinet just like yours. Owned it for 5 years. Did a few mods to it and I am happy with it's results.
Waste of money though. You can build one of these for $10. Just need a strong cardboard box of equal size. Some good tape and a piece of plexiglass. Cut some holes in the front. I'm a metal fabricator and I've been using it for 3 years with no visual damage. It's airtight and lightweight. I pack it away when I'm not using it and just pull it outside when I need it. If it's raining I have a port on it where I attach my shops vacuum system that purges everything outside.
Love the video! Going to NC in april, sadly I won't be able to go to Berm Park. Once I am biking for a liking I'll need one of these!
I was thinking about this cabinet. Glad you made the video. Only one thing for me. At 68, I'll keep it on the bench. 🙂
Have this exact cabinet at work, except I deleted the latches in favor of a magnet pulled from a hard disk drive screwed into the side door for a magnetic seal. Super convenient.
Glass beads or soda work awesome . The soda won’t leave a rough surface, but might be a bit dusty. I use glass beads for most of my projects. Have a blast !
This is the funniest diy guy I’ve watched defiantly ganna be on this Chanel more I’m actually enjoying learning 😂
Great video Seth. Every time you post it’s like a mental reset, been watching forever
I love the way you laugh when you’re putting things into the sand blaster. I make the same noise when I get a new tool to play with too! Hahaha
I love the solution to it not fitting under the bench 🤣 so simple but it made my day thankyou !
👍 As Michael McLane pointed out you have a variety of media available for different applications . My preference for what l do is glass beads . Definitely a smoother finish than #80 silica sand . Be willing to experiment to find out what works best for your needs . Baking Soda is also very safe , environmentally as well .
Vapor blasting has been the next level of professional finish in our shop. highly recommended over the sand cabinets
Love how you I love how you did the sandblast cabinet and how you made it fit underneath your workbench I love I did it I'll do the same thing thank you .
Fits perfectly 👍😉
Hi Seth - have you considered swapping out the abrasive sand for glass pearls? Sand with abrade the surface. Glass will simply remove the dirt and grime. I think as an engineer the sand will damage the very delicate and precision made mtb parts. Another alternative is soda as a blasting medium - good cleaner and what's left can be simply washed away with water. Have used the soda technique on my Porsche engine cases - top results...
I blasted a lot of vintage parts with this exact blaster from HF. The rack from 1948 Schwinn, and all the brackets that hold the dynamo and light kit on, I did the fenders and fender hardware for my 1960s Royce Union. NEXT I have everything collected up to start Copper and Nickel plating So I can clean stuff up and either paint or plate with the desired finish, and it will be better than when it came from the factory, but not look out of place..
wow nice and the price is just as nice. Ive got a massive list of expensive tools i need im just crossing off items slowly but surely. As long as ive got life in me i know ill keep building stuff and it sucks not having the equipment you need or something that makes getting projects done faster
This was Awesome... lol. I love the bench cut issue! TOO FUNNY, but also informative.
I've had my eye on this for a while now. It will be days before I leave my shop again 😄
I make metal sculptures with blacksmithing and welding techniques. It's great to use a sandblaster for those areas where you can't get in and sand or file easily, but yeah, it's not going to make anything shiny. ;) Great to clean it up, remove rust or scale, and prep for painting; though sometimes leaving some scale makes an interesting aesthetic.
i have one of the freestanding ones. , it up on cinderblocks. needs 2 bright floodlights in it to see. it needs a dedicated shopvac to keep the dust away, and the vacuum will die in about a year from abrasion in the bearings. we used a 220v shop 60gallon compresser to run it, it hasnt been used in about 5 years , if there is even a drop of moisture in the abrasive it clogs up, was fun when it worked initally.
My dad pass this year and this is one of the things he left behind thanks for the in-site, I might get brave enough to refinish my wheels on my e38 bmw
Nice upload as always..Thanks from Ontario Canada
anodized aluminium (the 'paint'/color) usually adds a bit of needed hardness to the raw aluminium. But I belive there is a 'transparent' anodizing you can do that would protect it but still keep it cool looking. Sand blasted aluminium has been a mac signature for years! it never goes out of style lol
I am so glad for the exit clip of the polished nut! My mind now has closure! 😅
here in Alaska I'm drowned out with snow so its nice to watch stuff like this
red seal blaster here. if you just want to remove old paint or oils, stains and just general aging of the material use walnut shells or sodium bicarbonate as your blast media it wont damage the metal and create that rough texture. using semi sharps like you used in the video is dual purpose doing the same as the other two medias i mentioned but also creates a 2-3 mil profile that gives paint something to bind to. walnut and sodium also work perfect if you want to blast wood.
This is actually pretty cool. Cheap simple and effective. I can never ask for anymore.
The sandblast laugh, the cutout, the unnecessaryness of it all had me laughing from the beginning. Thanks again Seth!
Look into other blasting media. There’s glass garnet, slag, walnut shells, soda, metal beads, the list goes on. Each one has different properties and is catered for different use cases. For you something lighter like soda or walnut shell will still remove surface containment’s but won’t abrade the base metal as much, specially softer non ferrous metals like you work with.