How to remove chips without damaging the circuit board
2024 ж. 27 Сәу.
234 767 Рет қаралды
It can be tough to remove through hole ICs from boards without causing any damage. I'm using a desoldering iron, so if you don't have one, you will need something to remove solder. (Braid, manual pump, etc.) These usually leave some solder behind on double sided boards making it very hard to get chips out without causing damage.
I use a combination of removing as much solder as I can from the bottom and hot air on the top to get the chips out without causing any damage.
"If it's stupid, but it works, then it ain't stupid" as I have often heard somewhere. Thanks for the content Adrian.
kzhead.info/sun/q8pxm61srKSHpoE/bejne.html
Something that I really love about your videos is the fact that you don't go around using expensive and fancy tools. Although there is nothing wrong with that, for us, regular human beings whom do not own expensive tools and certainly do not have experience (me particularly), not only it is incredibly useful to watch your videos, but you also give me hope to be able to do a great job. thank you!
This was very helpful, thank you so much! I expected a desolder gun to be enough but the IC that I'm desoldering got stuck and you put me on the right track to getting a heat gun. That was all that was needed. This is clearly something that requires practice to get better at but it's helpful to at least know the necessary steps to take.
Adrian I want to thank you for all the videos and help you’ve given me. I would have never been confident enough to do any of the electronics work that I’ve been doing without your help. I am restoring two Amiga 3000’s that have battery damage and making good progress. You have a very calming manner which also helps during any potentially stressful board repairs. Thank you Sir!
There is nothing wrong with your method, good job. Be careful in the hot air phase, electrolytic capacitors like to explode when hot air over 300°C is directed at them (learned it the hard way). Could use some Kapton tape to protect them from the heat.
kapton doesnt really protect from heat, it just doesnt melt in heat, people use it to shield things in hot air soldering to keep the air from blowing on parts, not from getting them hot... its just a thin film of plastic after all
I learned that way too, from trying to reflow an Xbox 360 - a cap let rip and it smelled nasty.
@@osgeld It does better than you think, I use a few wraps of Kapton tape over my finger to protect it when I am "truing up" a resistor. I can push the part down from the top - for a little while - while I melt the solder below.
Instead of Kapton tape you can wrat components in aluminium cooking foil.
@@boldford Yup. That's how my old partner at work did it. Cut out a hole a bit bigger than the size of the part in a piece of cardboard and wrap aluminum foil around it.
I'm an electronics engineer and your method is better than mine. As Romans when they found better weapons or tactics they incorporated them. So I'm switching to this technique thanks
Try doing that on a 10 layer board and you won't get far! Cut the legs flush with the chip using something like Lindstrom cutters to remove the chip. Then using two hot irons, firstly place one iron on the bottom then the other one on the top to gently remove the leg. The hardest part is clearing out the voltage and ground plane holes. This method has served me well for over 40 years.
Agree. If I was removing a "bad" chip, I would always cut legs leaving either the ground or power pin to heat up that one pin while slightly pulling the chip. I never risked damaging pads or traces to get a "bad" chip out all nice and intact just to go in the trash.
Experience tip. Be wary of the hot air on older (lower quality) boards, they can absorb moisture and then bubble up when heated.
Good job overall, getting the parts off with the PCB unscathed is always good. You can also use a small heat gun (or back hold your hot air reflow gun a bit further back from the PCB) to preheat the PCB in the area you will be desoldering beforehand. This leads to less thermal shock on the PCB and preheats those stubborn, thick, power traces. Leaving the desoldering iron in place a few seconds, after it has melted, will also help insure that all the solder will be sucked up, and as a bonus you don't have the iron quite as hot.
solder wick is a good cheap alternative for the top solder, especially if you don't have a hot air station. One other tip is to take a needle nose pliers and try jiggling each pin after desoldering, this both identifies any still soldered pins and frees the little bit of resistance that remains from edges of the pin sticking to the through hole.
good tips, also you can get a spring plunger operated version solder sucker if you can't justify something more expensive. the teflon tip can be sliced off to give whatever opening size you need
@@jgunther3398 the vampire works well
A wick would be a good option.
0:53 I thought the desoldering iron was on for some reason I was like 'AHHH NOOOOOO DON'T TOUCH IT AAAH'
Miss your videos man! Glad to see you active again!
Never realized rework stations were that cheap. So now I bought myself a new toy, thanks Adrian! Also, the part where the "X" was in the wrong spot reminded me of "Mr. Bean goes to the dentist"!
Reminds me I have an appointment with the dentist.
Good job, no complaining! A few explanations / improvments: Apply flux on both sides (I prefer Edsyn FL22, expensive but you really need just a tiny bit). This helps improve flow of the solder. Solder tends to oxidize over time and that makes it less liquid. Be generous with the new solder. The extra solder improves heat transfer and thus speeds up the hole process. I use a different wiggle-technique. With pins like these (stamped) I only wiggle in and out (or sideways), in the other direction, the pin would bend and not just flex. Now if you pay attention to the feel while wiggeling, you'll notice that the resistance suddenly drops. This is the moment when the solder got liquid all the way though. Only then pull the tigger for the pump. If you start to suck to early, you'll make your heat transfer worse. And finally: Continue to wiggle while you retract the gun. The air pulled through the hole will cool down the plating in the bore, but the pin will stay hot enough to get it free from the bore but not for the solder to re-flow. No hot air needed that way. Again: You did a good job, as shown by your result.
This is exactly what I do also! A few fast wiggles to fully liquefy the solder, then engage the pump until you "feel" the solder is removed, then retract the desoldering gun from the board while still wiggling, then once you are fully clear of the board, turn off the pump. I find that 90% of the time I don't even need flux or solder, even with old boards from the 80's.
Hi @MuellerNick what desoldering tool do you recommend?
@@elkernel I bought a used Weller and repaired it. Hakko, ... are worth their money. I once had one of those Chinese suckers and it didn't even suck. Sold it a month later.
@@MuellerNick thank for the replay, I’ll buy a Hakko then, take care and thanks.
Brilliant system you use. Back in my day I used to de-solder with my iron while holding my solder sucker in the other hand. It took me ages to get a chip out of the board successfully. If only I'd had your equipment back then. Thank you for a thoroughly enjoyable and educational video.
as always, huge respect for a great and clean job done with a god-level soldering skills! big kudos for that steady hand too!
Good stuff. I always use SMT flux on desoldering through holes as well. I am a big fan of the heat wicking it provides to get better flow. Typically, my components just fall out without needing extra heat from the air gun. Your method works great and I will borrow a few bits of the technique for my net job. Which will be C64 related!
You have convinced me to get a proper desoldering iron, for years I have struggled with a vacuum desoldering pump
just removed 2 CPU's off a original double dragon pcb. it worked no damage to the chip or board. so happy man thank you
Here’s an old trick I use for cleaning the vias after you remove a component. Dip a toothpick or a sharpened match into melted rosin/flux. Then apply heat to the via and the dipped end of the toothpick, insert it into the via, and rotate it slightly. This clears the via right away.
Awesome. I came to your channel on your recent LCD trashbin pickup and saw this video on the side. Finding that you're a C64 enthusiast as well, I hit that subscribe button immediately. Great work, your technique is brilliant. And the price for the hot air station has gone down to $35 on eBay. An instant purchase on my end.
Good job Adrian. On a recent spares repairs board I bought the last owner wasn't so careful and so many pads are wrecked. Those soldering stations seem expensive but in the long run it's mo ey very well spent. I generally use 340°C for desoldering and the methods are more or less identical. Keep up the good work, really enjoying your C64 content.
Having been using a combination of the hot air re-flow, manual pump and solder wick method for a long time I finally decided to make my life easier and get a vacuum gun. I ordered the same model as yours, it's still about the cheapest out there, today. It will be with me on Thursday and I'm sure it will be great for hobby use.
I find this very interesting I'm 37 and trying to learn new things about electronics. Usually when something needs a new component I throw it away very interesting and thanks.
Thanks for sharing your method! :-) I've seen other people adding fresh solder to the pins with a regular soldering iron first, then coming back in with the desoldering gun afterwards. Your way of doing it all in one pass is even more elegant. ^^
kzhead.info/sun/q8pxm61srKSHpoE/bejne.html
I use my trusty Radio Shack desoldering iron and the “4 second rule”! Just make sure to bend all the pins straight, first. Then I just squeeze the bulb, put the tip over the IC pin, and gently pull toward the body of the IC; once the solder melts, the pin will then move away from the inner wall of the through-plated hole, and I let go of the bulb after 4 (and no more than 4) seconds. It’s this solder that’s stuck between the component lead and the plated-through hole that stymies most efforts to safely remove the component(s)! Note that power pins are usually connected to a big, flat ground/power plane and this will act as a heat sink when trying to desolder those pins! If they prove stubborn, apply fresh, new solder FROM THE TOP (component side), and make sure it comes out the solder side. Now, re-try, but with a 5 second wait. Then just flip the board over, and the IC should just fall out as you touch the soldering iron tip to the last pad. HTH! 😊
Hello Adrian, I was in the electronics industry for around 10 years throughout the 90's and early 2000’s. I have desolded my fair share of through-hole and surface mount components. At that time we were doing a lot of through-hole to surface mount re-design. In your video you stated your concern regarding the technique you employ to desolder through-hole components. No need to worry as your technique is spot on. You did a great job removing those components, the PCB pads looked as good as new. Adding solder to through-hole pins or leads before removal is to "re-flow the solder". A must do to get old crusty solder flowing again. Your solder pump looks to be in good shape after two years of use. So you know that it needs regular cleaning. The tip can become abrasive over time which can lead to pad damage. The vacuum pump and camber can get clogged up petty quick too. Thank you for your most excellent videos! Cheers, Robert
this is a nice technique that I will use in the future. I struggle because the tip of my desoldering iron is always oxidated and I have a hard time keeping it wet while desoldering. By adding the new solder every time, you are constantly wetting the tip and keeping it in good shape. Thanks!
I'm an Atari guy, where things are mostly socketed. But hats off to you.. this really helps me work on XEs and unsocketed XLs. Love the 1702! I have one that I saved from the curb that I use daily with my Atari 800.
I found this video was the best one that helped with my chip removing task. I was struggling before I viewed this video. I wasn't "adding" solder as I tried to suck out the old. I was just heating what was there but it was messy and not really working. Thanks for this very helpful upload.
Great tips! You can use some solder wick to clean up the remaining solder in the holes too, as long as you don't push down and grind it around and melt the adhesive holding the traces and pads down. I used to remove and replace huge SO chips with just a cheap heat gun with good success rate!
some extra caution steps: a) for crowded areas in a board use kapton tape to insulate sensitive components from excessive heat (specially when using a big gun like shown in video); b) a good substitute of the desoldering pump is the copper braid; c) when some pins are still soldered it's best to use a soldering iron with an adapter multipin for the IC package you are desoldering (i.e. DIP-40), thus applying uniform heat at the same time in every pin and the pull is safer; d) try not to use metal picks/screwdrivers to apply force to plastic/ceramic components, you really risk phyiscal cracking of the component; I find it very useful and safer to use the "black stick", that anti-static plastic tool used by phone and netbook repair (i.e. ifixit sends those, really chip in quantities of 10)
Kapton tape does not insulate
That Gaojie desoldering vacuum was the best $110 I’ve ever spent! My model has different tips from that, though. On mine the tip is at the end of a sort of barrel that gets stuffed down into the ceramic channel. It’s been my experience that the pcbs can have very narrow holes for the rows of pins, resulting in hard to remove ICs due to their pins having dug into the through holes and sort of set themselves into the through holes. Gotta try your hot air trick, you’ve developed a pretty great technique to employ your methods. Fresh solder seems so counterproductive and yet it seemed to work like a charm for you. Thank you for sharing, I look at a lot of electronics videos and I like that your uploading repair videos. Thank you for sharing!
Thank you Adrian. I think that we tend to get wrapped up in what other people think about our methods. If what you are doing works, and works without damaging the board or surrounding components, I say do it. This was practical and helpful.
Thanks for this video! I've had a Hakko 808 for some time and also had a problem with only clearing holes on chips from the bottom side. I, too, used a bit of hot air on top to finish the job, but I thought perhaps I was doing something wrong to require doing anything on the top side! Nice to know I was not alone in that strategy!
I would have also said that, if you desolder a chip and later want to reinstall the chip, that you ALWAYS get them socketed where possible. It can save a lot of hassle.
Think about if you're just lazy and put it in backwards! A five second mistake with a socket, a ten minute one without.
Same with soldered-in batteries...if you have to replace one, go ahead and put in a holder to make future replacements much easier.
especially on that old c64 boards. messing up vias and traces is very easy. that kind of restoration work should always be done very careful and sustainable for the future.
That works until you get to very high frequencies where a socket would create a transmission line discontinuity.
This video is really worth watching. I have this box attached kind of desoldering gun. the ZD 915, which is quite ok. You need to keep the core clean and get rid of the solder in the cylinder quite regularly. The price is not more than was you have paid. You hot air usage is what is new to me. I really like it. And I have to make such a lever, that you have used. I was thinking of it already. Yours look really neat. I was working in the development department beside a big electronic factory, so soldering difficult things was not required for me. I have had nice colleagues, who had all tools and knew all tricks. After quitting there, I really miss that (and the nice colleagues of course). After watching your video, I will miss their soldering abilities a bit less. I sure have a hot air station, too, but I was only using it for smd and heat shrinkable tubes. Excellent, great video.
A smashing presentation. Thank you. Low melt solder and a little flux put on to a joint can help with the more "intransigent" pins too.
One note of warning concerning the desoldering station, be sure to let it heat up good and proper. The rear of the tube doesn't heat up as fast, and your solder will eventually cool off in this spot and cause a clog.
I really like your technique. Looks like I need to get a couple more tools now. The snow is slowly going away over here. It's a beautiful sunny day (right now). 😀 I think you may have a shot soon. Thanks for the great video!
Im away to desolder a ram chip on same board. This is very very helpful so many thanks and respect to you.
Im watching this again 4 year after... just because I love his content...
I would recommend using a soldering iron with solder wick on the top part of the pins versus prying up because you still run the risk of lifting pads and traces that way. Plus, once all the solder is removed the chip should wiggle and you should be able to pull it with minimal effort. Excellent video! 👍
Great Video. Thank you for posting this. It really helped me out. And honestly I really enjoy watching your detailed vids on motherboard problem solving. Thanks again Adrian for these vids.
Some comments I feel compelled to present for the general good. First, you had a very favorable, well done board. Some boards have too small holes for the chip pins. There is a guide for a proper hole sizing related to the pin size. It has been published by some institution of PCB manufacturing, whose exact name I have already forgotten. Anyway, the idea is that you need enough space all around the pins for letting air to flow, and thereby releasing the pin from a leftover solder. Which also depends on using the least temperature and best cooling of the pin and the plating, so the solder cools below its melting point. Pace, a soldering and desoldering gear manufacturer many years ago arranged seminars and published VHS videos about these topics. Good stuff. So, a warning about using too high a tool temperature, which does not let the solder temperature to drop during the ongoing suction. Don't overheat - that just makes your job more difficult! Then, on multi layer boards, try to figure before starting, which pins have a tie to any of the inner layers and adjust your temperatures and timing separately for those "special" pins. I mean, do at first all the easy ones, the adjust your settings for the remaining problem ones. My personal problem experiences have been too tight holes or a beefier component substituted (same outcome). In those cases, I evaluate how sure I am that I need to remove a particular component and do I have a replacement on hand. If yes, I generally cut the pin(s) and then remove the stub individually. Finally, in case of multi layer boards, I may need to mount the board vertically, heat the left behind wire 18:01 stub on one side and use forceps on the other side to remove the stub. Finally suck the hole clean. A nasty memory on a board I myself designed for a 1N4004 diode needed to be beefed up with a 1N5404. As its thicker wires still fit in the (clean) holes, we did not promptly revise the board, but a few times later experienced the punishment, when there occasionally still was a need for desoldering. Sigh...
I just gave you a thumbs up for everything that you showed in your video sir. I loved every moment of it. I am not worried about the footage of the wrong set of pins being desoldered, it was just a simple mistake and don't feel too bad about it, things like that happen all the time. Keep up the good work sir. you are doing a great job and don't worry about simple mistakes. take care sir.
Great technique! Can't argue with solid results.
kzhead.info/sun/q8pxm61srKSHpoE/bejne.html
That's pretty much what I do, only I go round the chip first with an iron and new solder then hit it with the desoldering gun. I've a couple of 40 pin DIPs to remove this weekend so I'll give your technique a go too. Excellent stuff as always!
Excellent technique. The hot air is the key. I have the same de solder gun but always felt it did not have enough vacuum. This hot air guns are awesome ! I have a couple like that. They are inexpensive but work great for all my SMD work.
Thanks for the great video... You could probably change the potentiometer in your solder gun to a higher value, so as to be able to turn the heat down further. Or, add a resistor on a SPDT switch to bring it on line in series to the pot, or to bypass it. There are lots of DIY solutions. Taking a look inside the gun will reveal the best route. Maybe make a video about the modification...
Perfect! If worried about other components get heated by the heat gun you can build your own heat shields from Kapton tape in various sizes. Build it like a umbrella with a weight of poster putty on the "umbrella handle" to prevent the heat shield from get blown away by the heat gun.
I'd love on of those suction irons... but, at the moment, they're beyond my budget... watching you and a fair number of other people... they're certainly the way to go.
Just started socketing some chips on a C16 board and came back to review your video for tips! Proper tools are highly recommended for this work, but I was able to get by with a manual solder pump and constant-temp heat gun. YMMV! Using the manual pump, I put the board in a vise (clamped in a safe spot), added fresh solder to the IC pins, then heated the IC pins from the top/chip side so I can remove the solder while still liquid.
If anyone wants to see how I did this, I filmed my procedure and talked about some pitfalls with this method: kzhead.info/sun/mcZwmbuLj4CqlGw/bejne.html
I have that same desoldering iron and I find it works great! I will definitely have to try the hot air rework station afterward. I have used it before for surface mount stuff but never through-hole.
Thanks for this Adrian! I've seen you use this technique in subsequent videos. It does work VERY well for removing ICs from C64 boards. I've yet to damage a PCB.
Just moving the tip in circles as the pump runs is a good idea, simple, but I can see the benefits pulling the IC lead from the pad/via to clean all around the pin. And the necessity for temp control on the tip. Nice work. Thanks.
Man! In the beginning of the video, my heart raced when I saw you touch the "hot end" of the desoldering iron. I was thinking, "Oh, that's gonna hurt!" But then, it obviously wasn't plugged in or hot. But, great video. Now I know what I have to buy to get this keyboard controller chip out!
I need to get that soldering iron which can sucks too. You made it look so easy
After working for several years on component replacement level equipment repair, I started a new job with a photocopier repair crew. I noticed one guy carefully trying to unsolder an obviously blown chip (a motor driver with a hole blown in its top). I suggested to him that he should just cut the pins of the chip and remove them individually to prevent damage to the tracks. He was surprised that he hadn't thought of that before!
Good job! I’ve used this method too, but with just a solder sucker. Heated up the solder with the soldering iron and sucked it out. Then used my hot air station to get out the chips. I’ve recently bought a desoldering station and I’m really happy with it. It has a powerful vacuum pump, so desoldering takes out almost all of the solder. It’s now a breeze to remove chips from these boards without damaging traces.
What is your Brand of desoldering gun? Where did you get it?
Tie a string to the chip, and the other end to a door handle. Stand on the board and slam the door. Job done.
Last I checked, chips did not look like teeth.
Tried it..worked perfect.chip came out perfect.my old method was tie the chip with string to the back of a fast car.i hold the board and he floors the car.the door is far easier.
I repaired a crazy kong last year and removed many chips, put sockets in place, tested and put the chip back, in just about the same way, but used lots of flux and solder braid to remove most of the solder and then used the hot air station to pull the chip from the other side, it works great and I didn't life a single pad or track.
I use a similar method alike yours, using a desoldering station at 335 degrees Celsius. I use a screwdriver for lifting out the chip. Your pick really does a good job, I´ll be looking out for one... Thanks for the idea ;)
Nice one. This has given me the confidence to take a crack at doing a C64 board myself. Thanks!
Many years ago when I was repairing C64's I made up a tool from copper that sat over the tip of my 80W soldering iron and it had slots that I filled with solder to go over the pins on the bottom of the PCB. I'd heat the pins and pull the chip with a chip puller, then use a soldering iron and solder sucker to clean out the holes. This method was successful, but I like your method better. Since then I bought a cheaper de-soldering tool than yours, with spring operated suction, which works OK, but you have to remember to point the tool into the scrap solder tin before releasing the trigger, otherwise you get solder spattered on whatever it was aimed at. I also had a test board with sockets for testing any suspect chips. I'm here in Queensland Australia, so it seems that the C64 made it to a lot of countries during it's life. Thanks for an interesting and useful tutorial.
Fantastic video, I just bought a similar suction gun but was struggling to remove all the solder, will try your technique 👌🏼
Very thorough technique. The only thing that I do differently is to use a fine pair of needlenose pliers to "wiggle" the pins on the IC in order to ensure that it's loose.
Pretty decent method, especially with having the best tools for the job! I have done a lot of rework over the decades including Milspec and you pretty much followed most of the best practices... there were a couple holes that were not cleaned out as fully as I would like but were still quite tolerable... the mistake on marking was amusing because EVERYBODY does that at least a couple times... even so, on older equipment it is sometimes good to refresh the solder anyway due to age and crystallization... I have actually recovered faulty equipment merely by reflowing with newer solder. I actually upgraded an external pump de-soldering iron by getting a Harbor Freight vacuum pump and a couple of dump valves and had two foot pedals I could use to trigger the valves and get a solid vacuum pull for even larger scale parts connected to larger ground planes. You *DO* need reinforced tubing to do so and I also had several inline filters to capture the solder and dust spray. As others have said, keeping your tools clean and well maintained is a MUST to keep up a good experience, especially when you do it on a daily basis. I always made sure to do my maintenance at the start of the day and somewhere near the middle and had plenty of extra 'consumables" at the ready... the time you spend maintaining your equipment will save you MUCH longer times trying to fix it later... not to mention the frustration of having to sideline your project while getting your tools fixed up.
Great video. I just ordered a ZD-915 desoldering station from Amazon. I have a few C64 boards to try and repair. There was no way I was going to use a hand pump to desolder. I never had very good luck with those suckers LOL. Next is a rework station.
Nice technique. I normally use a shed load of flux to get it of the underside and then use something sharp to lever one pin against the next on the top side. I do that from both directions until I can see it is free. Will give this a go on my next board.
Nice to see that the cheapo heated desolder pump I got isn't that bad. Might not be for heavy use in a pro workshop butiIt can easily such the solder on both sides and the suction is quite strong. Sure there's usually a tiny bit of solder that holds the chip in but then I get the ordinary solder iron to puch the pin to the center of the hole and it let go. Already repaired one 425 board - without lifted traces and without hotair.
Hi Adrian, Great work on showing your way to remove the chips I just got myself a really good desoldering gun and will be buying a hot air unit to help with Pinball pcb's, Cheers for showing Us all
excellent demonstration, so glad I came across this video
I don't know why anyone would be critical of your method. It seems to work just fine. I really enjoyed this video. My soldering skills are crude in comparison. I'd like to invest in some similar equipment, and learn to do this as some point.
I see professionals do things quite different from each other all the time, so as long as it works for you w/o damage and w/o wasting a lot of time, you're not really doing it wrong. I actually get a kick out of people using anti-static wrist straps because hardly anyone I know uses them. ;-)
Oh, I forgot: It's better to desolder every second pin and then start over with the left out ones. Thus the board stays a bit cooler.
I do the same thing when soldering in components. If for example I have three transistors to solder in, I hit one pin on each before coming back to the first one. Just be sure to not forget any. :)
@@MrWaalkman I learned this the hard way today...
@@Kimchi_Studios Ouch. I hope that it wasn't a hard to get or an expensive one.
@@MrWaalkman What happens if you just forget one pin tho? Can't you just solder it after?
@@goku445 Sure. It shouldn't be a problem. Off of the top of my head I can't think of anything other than your board wouldn't work until the pin got soldered. Tracking down which pin got forgotten could be lengthy... Edit: I suppose not having a pull down/up resistor soldered in could make things interesting...
Learned something new today. Thanks for the tip!
Thanks for this video! After struggling with desoldering a CIA chip I saw this video. Some hot air later and problem solved. Now my C128 is running flawlessly again :)
I would use some solder wick and flux on the topside before hitting the air, but I like the air idea. Thanks to you, I’ll likely get one.
Great video as always, Adrian! Thanks for leaving in the mistakes. I like your method. Definitely need to look into a desoldering gun and hot air station. For junk boards, I've used a hot air gun and pliers to harvest parts. I know it's barbaric. But it works. It's fun. And doesn't take long.
My old partner used to use a propane torch on the back side of the board with the board clamped in his vise. Once he got the solder molten, he would pull back on the board and let it go. Presumably he had a large box against the wall to collect all of his parts. Now that's barbaric. :)
@@MrWaalkman Rewatching Adrian's videos. Saw your reply. I LOVE it. A propane torch!! Hahahah... And then flinging the red hot parts catapult-style!!?? That definitely takes the cake. I tip my hat to your partner! That's great!
@@wattage You would have had to have known Neil, aka "The Professor". Probably the smartest engineer that I've ever had the pleasure to work with. But he did have his quirks. Not that I have any room to talk, there was a reason why they put both of us on second shift. ;>
Great technique, worked flawlessly. Thanks!
Hi. I've never desoldered something with more than 3 pins. But your method seems recommendable. Maybe I can use it someday. Thanks for the interesting videos so far.
Everyone has their method I like your way of doing it, you don't need expensive tools. None of the pads or board was damaged.
Great video. Thx for the tips. Soldering and desoldering not bad with practice
A proper desoldering tool is a must. Got mine a good few years ago now for about £70. Best £70 I sepnt on a tool ever. Makes restoring such vintage machines a breeze.
Nicely done, and I liked you even showed mistakes. Also, your tools are not ridiculous expensive models and they worked fine. Thanks. :)
I've got a desoldering pump, but I've been thinking of getting a proper desoldering iron. The pump WORKS, but you may have to fiddle around a fair bit, especially since the pump doesn't have heat of it's own, and the connection will often cool down before you can suck it up. One thing I'll say about getting Chinese tools, is to take them apart first, and make sure the wiring is sound. Sometimes it's good, but sometimes the connections are shoddy, or there's an earth wire that doesn't actually go anywhere. I haven't had much issue with static personally (my concrete floor tends to drain static pretty well), but MOSFETs and CMOS ICs are sensitive to stray currents, and ungrounded irons can potentially damage them. Even if the damage isn't apparent, not taking ESD precautions can still shorten the lifespan of the IC, so either make sure the ground is connected, or add one with a 1M resistor if it's possible to do so (take care that anything you need to insulate has a silicone/fiberglass sleeve, and crimp, not solder those connections). Some people on the EEVBlog forum have also suggested using a 4mm banana plug for the ground, so you can tie it with the rest of your ESD setup, or lift it in case you need to solder a battery. I'd just have it go to ground, and ground the rest of my ESD setup to that same outlet (with a 1M resistor) via the faceplate screw or something. The 1M resistor is important so that any ESD is absorbed safely, not just given a path to everything else, and it also gives YOU and your stuff protection in case somebody elsewhere in the building bungles something up and the ground you're clamped to goes live.
Just burned up a pad on a ZX Spectrum trying to get a chip out with a similar desoldering iron with the vacuum pump. I didn't try adding fresh solder first. I'll give that a go. Great tip.
Well, Using the above method I quickly removed two 16 pin RAM chips from the Spectrum. They both tested good so I can put them back into a socket once I'm done.
Thanks for a great explanation! Your way of desoldering is a bit different to mine, and a bit better too. Now I know a heat gun is next on my shopping list ;-) I would use no-core solder in this case - the flux has no added function and only makes it messier.
You definitely did it the RIGHT way. Great vid, btw
Good video, Don't listen to other people criticizing, you made it clear this was your method.
gawd thank you... i tried desoldering on a c128 board with a solder sucker and..well.. they suck. gonna get a desoldering iron and heat gun like this. nice work!
You can't argue with good results.
Good video, excellent audio. Thank You!
I'd always used the hand pump and/or braid , then I got a hakko fr301. For the first time ever, I removed a twenty pin edge connector from a double layer board , both board and connector survived unscathed , and I realised I'd been desoldering in the dark ages for all those years.
I usually use the same technique. It is especially helpful with poor quality PCBs which tend to lose metallization together with IC pins when too much force is applied.
I like the additional heat gun for final removal but I need one of those prying tools that you have-ideal leverage.
Nice work...using soldering/desoldering tool to melt and remove solder. I also have that kind of tool, but it is manual...you have to press the lock to activate suction.
Thanks for the lesson. Very helpful.