BATTLBOX Gear Testing : Settlers Wrench FAIL (Learn From My Mistakes)
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If you want to keep the bark on the pegs next time, cut a ring in the bark at the depth you need the pegs inserted. That way as you hammer down to that point, the bark will split away, rather than peeling.
yeah it was becase it was cold out I could nhave came in with a knife to cut away the extra pieces that were cut down
@@cutlerylover what kind of man doesnt carry some kind of knife especially going into the woods for 1 and complete such task 2? Sorry I just cant wrap my head around it...
Sorry to chime in here a little late but this tool was designed for bushcraft use and not recommended for hard wood as I am the creator of this design! I personally check every one that is purchased from me for dullness! If it doesn’t make the cut it gets resharpened and sold as refurbished! Also in my packaging it comes with a disclaimer stating it is recommended for green wood or soft wood! Not to say it will not work on hardwood because it will but I’ve not had an opportunity to test it on every kind of wood out there so I labeled for soft and green wood! Battlebox does manufacture these for me and in return they can use them in their boxes. The issue is they simple do not monitor their quality control as well as I do. If I do have a faulty one slip through the cracks I WILL make it right!
please excuse me for asking, but is there a way to purchase directly from you instead of receiving one from battlebox? where woukd I go to do so?
@@trikstar198 Currently don’t have this model in production anymore as I’m working on the 2.0 version! Should be much heavy duty! Just follow along on my socials when they are ready I will update! Yes there are some copy cats out there that are in it solely for the profit! I know profit is important, but I want to make a great tool!
@@ShawnWithTheWildALONES7 do you have a list of woods that are recommended I know you say soft wood or green wood. I live in the south where oak and pine are predominant any suggestions.
Well said!
Wow you invented the scotch eye awl? You must be 300 years old. Seriously, the bit is designed for a power drill. Use a single cutter bit with a bigger deeper lead screw. And temper AFTER the weld
well the first problem is...... it's a Battle Box. I did a year of this, at the top tier. Everything was either a gimmick or a knock off of real equipment. most expensive let down of 2017......
I bought the tool from (Shawn with the wild, the inventor) and have had it for about a year now. I've used it mostly on pines an cedars, works fine for me, no complaints.
@@maverick4462 two of the softest wood in north america... weld your own with a real auger bit like Makita bit and you could cut nails with it.
Dang bro, sorry to hear this.
A friend with a machine shop and I are making a 1&1/2" version all stainless steel sweetheart!!! We will be fish tailing the auger in the shaft end=(forged flat) to be welded in line with the eye and the eye will be 4" long. Also adding protruding teeth in line of cut to outside of cutting edge to simply turn the excess wood off before removing to reveal the peg sugar pie. Hopefully we can sell a few to pay for our own each!!! Combination auger and eye length we're thinking should be 12". And another friend wants one also that can manufacture the nylon and velcro sheaths and hand guards so wish us luck sweetheart!!!!!
I think your problem was that you pounded it in first...so where the threads would grip the wood....by pounding it in...you strip the wood and give the threads nothing to grip
those tiny tapered threads wouldn't hold with the forces of that massive bit anyway. the tool design is a cheap crock.
that would make sense only the very tip isnt important once the large part touches the wood it should bite and start to drill in...the wood is too hard for this, even with a power drill it took multiple tries slowly to get it cut about 3/4 the ay into the wood
I used drill bits for the entirety of my career. You most definitely need to start screwing and no baton into the wood. I'd recommend just trying and seeing if that works better on a *new* spot on the wood or a new piece of wood all together. Also, the thickness of that post could be too small to the point that it will split given the size of the bit.
cutlerylover yep, try screwing it in, you need those small threads to pull it in, it can exert way more pressure than you’d think.
@@cutlerylover no, the bit sucks. A real auger would have done the job no problem. The peg maker is a cool idea.but you can make one yourself out of a 3" nipple, steel. Probably 1 1/2 pipe. Since 1 inch pipe I.D is around 3/4. Then use a 1 1/4 auger.
Hey Jeff, just a tip, the case that your auger comes in has a hole at the bottom so you can put the auger threads into it while hammering the auger head. That way your hand doesn't have to touch the threads 😊
I noticed that as well sweetheart!!! Good eye 👁🗨 Andrew!!! Also showing your obvious intelligence!!!
Jeff, the bit is fine but the thread at the front pulls the bit in you don't hammer it in and you aren't meant to just use them free hand you are meant to put a dowel through
A couple things I can think of might have had an effect on how well the auger works. I ordered an auger bit similar to this one, and it came VERY sharp on all the machines edges, BUT it had an issue with the threads on the screw. The threads were full width all the way down to the very point of the screw, so it was essentially a tiny cone-shaped auger instead of a screw, which usually has the threads taper down to nothing toward the tip. It didn’t pull into the wood at all. I took an auger bit file and tapered it myself. Now it works like a charm. The second thing is that if you baron the auger into the wood it may affect the threads, especially if the thread was full-width all the way down to the point of the screw like mine was. If that was the case, a wide screw thread like that might just fold over completely and make the auger not work.
Great video Jeff - I remember your reaction when you opened it in the battlbox vid (love that series) - keep going man - watching 10 plus years!
I just unboxed mine and tried it on soft wood. Spruce. Not dried but not just cut. Truthfully it was our Christmas tree that was in water until January. I cut the tree down myself in late Dec. I did not baton it in. I feel that the lead tapered screw is not long enough, aggressive enough or large enough. It cannot generate enough pull and grip to put enough pressure on the blades. The blades have a tiny point that extends a fraction of an inch lower than the blades but they do not cut deep enough to do what a chips auger does. I work with wood quite alot building projects outside and I have never seen this design. All my chips augers only have one blade that cuts horizontal and one blade that cut vertical. They work great. This one didn't. It did the same as what happened in the video. I think I will return mine to Amazon and weld a chips auger on to a chunk of pipe and then shapen one end of the pipe and heat treat it. Should be better and cheaper. Thank you for the video. I'm glad I'm not the only one.
I think the main issue is the angle of the drill bit cutting edge and the sudden taper of the center boring part of the bit to a full width of the main part of the but. Old school hand drill bits are angled much closer to being like a small plane, to scrape off a smaller shaving of wood per revolution, and generally have a gentler taper from starting width to full width.
In the winter even a "green" tree will be a bit harder because they are dormant and the sap isn't flowing. Frankly I haven't seen a single gimmick out of those battle boxes I would put much trust in if anything depended on it.
Very interesting BATTLBOX video,Jeff.
Thanks for the heads up because I just got one of these and was not able to go into the wood and I was like what? They made it look so easy on KZhead! Well thanks for clearing that up now I know why. Ash and oak are two words that are very hard and that's mostly what's on the property here where I live. 😑
Oh gosh I also forgot to mention I sharpened the auger further with my dremmal die grinder with a fine grit sanding barrel preferably more than 200grit but taped the center drill first not wanting to dull it even by accident sorry I didn't mention it earlier sugar!!! And of course thank you so very very much for your videos being extremely important as of late with Putin losing his mind and all!!!!
Jeff, I believe I have what you need. Last summer I came across some old furniture out on the street for bulk pick up. This stuff was early 60 s Thomasville type stuff. Anyway I stripped off some carved hardwood dowels for clubs and Escrima sticks. They were attached with 21/2 inch threaded rods that are 3/16. I found 3 and will send them so don't drill anymore until they arrive. Screw one half way into the long stick with the other half into the cross member and you are in business. I wish I had more but 3 will give you a good start. There is a place for everything in the house etc. etc. I am quickly losing the capacity to remember what place.
I heard a key part in your description. I have one of these Setler's Wrenches. In fact I bought a factory second... so, it's not as good as the one you have. (I had to sharpen the peg maker) The thing I heard was that you thought you were supposed to batton the drill bit into the wood. This cuts the fibers in the wood and creates a small cone shaped hole. Instead, try to twist the drill bit part into the wood in order to get it to bite into the fibers. (as a tip: I sometimes use my belt knife to make a started hole similar to starting a bow drill kit.) As fre as green wood vs. dead wood goes, dead wood only makes it more difficult to turn to drill. I've used it in both. Hope this helps!
I got one through Amazon Prime and it came with a sheath and a 6” by 6” piece of leather to wrap around the drill bit for a safe grip. $39.99
I got the stainless steel version sweetheart. And it was $23.80 but nothing else. I new I already had a sheath and hand pad sweetheart!! I never throw stuff like that away sugar!!!
@@kimnielsenthewordyvikingett159, think I got the same one sweetheart but mine came with a little flint striker. Hoping to try it out this weekend & make a small sweedish fire stove darling
@@julies1ify Sweetheart you now have 8 subscribers and did you happen to catch a glimpse of my video titled my collection of Settlers Wrenchs??? And I'm hoping you have an absolute outdoor party with your new toy and please don't cut yourself on the auger since hopefully you also got a hand protector!! If not stick it into the sheath a little so you don't!!! And bring a small pruning saw so you can make a mallet for yourself and save your palm skin from the roughness of a branch to drive your scotch eye into the end of your choice of tenon material!!! And above all please be careful and safe and may the Supreme entity smile ☺ upon you and yours!!!!🌈🦄🤗😘💋💋💉💋💋💘💔🥰😊😇💜💜❄️🐻❄️🌨🤠 And Howdy Howdy from Alvin Texas sweetheart!!!!
I remember loving to do wood projects with black walnut. That wood is so hard it wears out saw blades quickly. It's almost like cutting through stone! I imagine oak behaves similar. Can you sharpen the bit?
I’ve not used this particular instrument, however, most bushcraft three bit augers should be used in fresh cut green wood. If you would like better results in dried hard woods use a two or single bit auger. You could buy or make your own from a yard sale item, they typically come with a triangular bit made for a hand drill.
I used mine on dry ash with no issue other than it being hard to remove the peg from scotch eye. You let it thread itself in until it bottoms out then add handle and continue
I bought the Settlers Wrenchl, an 1st it is best with green wood yes, 2nd, not so much the leverage but how it was started in the wood, the screw at the tip needs to be screwed into the wood so it Pulls the tool through. If it's not started right you're just making a poor friction fire.
Any tips to get the pegs right? I have the problem of not getting the tool out of the peg if I hit it all the way. Even after peeling the sides, the tool sticks in there like a rock.
When I first saw that thing, I had my thoughts about it. I am reasonably sure that the four spiral construction is a huge liability - you can't get the torque and downward pressure needed to force the four cutting lips into the wood by hand - unless it's very fresh and very soft wood. Probably also too dull to begin with; resharpening - again - being impeded by the four spiral design. I have bought a set of vintage wood augers from the local fleamarket and they work. They were also dull, but they only had a single spiral, so I was able to resharpen them. I used them to enlarge the slot for a butcher steel on a beech knife block to accept a ceramic rod without a problem. *Sharp* steel cuts wood easily. ;) P.S.: The dowel cutters I've seen were used differently from what you did. They are usually embedded in a workbench, sawhorse or simply a block of wood with the edge of the dowel cutter facing up. The dowel blanks are inserted from above and are forced through by beating them with a primitive mallet; a thick branch with one end slimmed down to form a handle, pretty much, so it won't matter if it gets chewed up by hitting the edge of the dowel cutter.
Been using it for about a year now, works great for me. No complaints.
The threads on the drill bit pull it through the wood. Do not pound it in. Slowly screw it in with downward pressure to start and once started it will pull itself the rest of the way though with little downward pressure needed
Hello sir. Thank you for the video. I was planning to make a few of these in various sizes. The tool was meant to be used with a peg as a handle. Also, the bit is for sure dull. Please don't take offense to this post. Was not meant to sound negative.
Hi Jeff, do you know if Shawn ever got a patent for the Settlers Wrench? If he did he might have a case against the Pathfinder school who are making their own. Not sure how the US patent laws deal with it,
Your idea for making a camera stand was good. Yes, the wood was hard but I don't think that was your actual problem. The hole you were trying to cut into the branch, was almost the same size as the branch. Just a little bit smaller. Before you started to drill it, I was concerned that it would have the strength that you wanted to have. But what I think your problem was the curvature of the sticks. On the sides of the stick you were not getting any bite at all with the drill. If you had a flat surface, or a bigger stick it may have worked.
Best bit of advice on this thread, totally agree
The lead screw being course is for softer woods. A fine threaded leadscrew is dedigned for hardwoods. Not sure id settlers wrenches give you a choice.
The sheath its self on this one is the cover for the drill bit
This was very helpful.
Hey Cuttlery Lover Amazon now offers a 1&1/2" version of the Settlers Wrench sweetheart!!! I'm getting one asap and also a 5/8" version to be able to pin the 1&1/2" tenon so it won't back 🔙 out!!! What do you think of them apples young man???? Would most certainly love to hear any and all responses!!! And everybody please stay safe and may God bless!!!!
A chisel in skilled hands also does the job 🤘🇬🇧❕
1. That's not oak. 2. Cut around the pegs with a saw a score just at the depth of the hole you drilled into the logs the pegs fit into, then tap the cutter onto the peg until it cuts to the saw cuts you made, keeping your bark. 3. If drilling all the way through a branch, drill until the auger starts to drill the point through, then turn it around and hit it from the other side to avoid splintering.
Yup might have to use some softer wood but that defeat the purpose of you trying to use what's around you using that tool. You might as well just use an axe or knife?
Yeah tool like that is dead weight if you can only use it in a specified way when another tool can do the job
Yeah, I am pretty sure batoning that bit is a bad idea. Failure to drill properly could be because it's such a hardwood, or because it's dull...but either way don't baton that tip into the wood. It needs 'virgin' wood to sink into, and pounding it just creates a kind of pulp at the tip of the bit. It jams it up, clogs it up, and it can't self-tap. Also, the tip on these bits are not designed to take forceful blows from batoning and hammering at all. You've been lucky so far not to bust that tip off, and if/when you do you have a problem! I wouldn't push it much more. Play around with pines and cedars and even willows and Manitoba Maples if you have 'em, so long as it's green. It's a maple, but I believe they are a much softer wood than other maple types. They certainly spread out and fall apart like willows. I thought this was a Scotch eye auger? Cool honest review though. Hope ya' get more fun out of it asap!!
this is a cool tool concept
Wonder why ppl keep putting thumbs down on his vids.trolls or haters i guess just crazy why do that fr ..thanks for sharing and info man ..got a like from me
Probably booing the product, not him.
And I know you probably already know this but you've got to remain straight during the drill task or it doesn't have enough grab to help pull the drill into the wood and I did have to exert a tremendous amount of pressure to drill the oak as well!!! But could easily see this to most definitely be problematic!!! Good luck on your next try sweetheart once that center screw starts to bite you simply cannot make any directional changes or as I said it hasn't the strength 💪 to help much!!!
Practice makes perfect, I've used a settlers wrench, but now you know you're mistakes.
You shouldn't have to baton it in that from part is actually threaded to act like a screw. The bit should draw it's self in. You should leave a piece of wood in the bit to act like a handle. This set up is meant to mimic an old style auger.
Do you carry a sharping stick you can sharpen those
It’s not actually a “drill bit” it works more like an end mill bit. The threaded bit at the end helps keep pulling it into the wood but the bit itself doesn’t dig. It eats away at the surface as you spin it kinda like an auger. Looks like they took a big end mill bit and welded it to the other piece.
Yeah, auger bits shouldn't have more that two flutes and one is all it actually needs.
I think the problem is batoning the drill into the wood. That pointy bit is threaded like a screw and will pull the drill into the wood.
I would prefer a model that’s slightly longer and a slightly smaller diameter. Half inch seems about right. This seems more like a 5/8” or 3/4” bit
Carve a flat spot on small round stock for flat tool grab on
That bit was made for a drill. It has 4 blades. All old school hand drills have 1. I have a few that work fine and they drill through oak just fine.
I have better luck starting on a flat section of wood. Try making the section you are drilling through flat with your knife first.
it might seem the curved wood is the problem but it bit in fine with the tip of the tool its just the wood is too hard, where its trying to cut is completely flat...
The idea is to put a stick into the top part when cutting out a hole
Hard to do on green wood. Fibers are not stable enough.
That's the problem now a days cant believe there has to be instructions for common sense I like wearing gloves with sharp objects. And if the wood is to hard get a softer wood👍😎
I think your bit was too wide for the piece of wood you were trying to use it on. Test this theory by trying on a larger oak log (green)
its the cheapest auger bit with a pipe welded on it. the bit is worth 8$. i made my own out of a bosh wood devil bit and you can cut nails with it.
Broad leafs hard wood, needles soft wood in general.
Yeah you are not supposed to baton the screw thread tip into the wood. The screw thread tip, is what pulls the auger into the wood, So you want to give it every possible opportunity to do what it is designed to do. Like any "screw", it is not advised to baton it deep into the wood! Or you risk tearing up the integrity of the wood, that the screw thread tip needs to grab onto, in order to pull the auger in. Also the risk of breaking the screw thread tip off, is seriously not advisable. Because once the screw thread tip is broken off or seriously damaged IE. stripped. In your case, I can see the auger is not working because the wood has been stripped out and the screw thread tip has nothing to bite onto! The auger will not work if the screw thread tip has nothing to grab onto, hence the reason it is not advised to baton it in, just let it screw in normally. This barely takes seconds and gives the screw thread tip maximum pulling power! I hope this advice helps you and others.
Why not just pound several stakes into the ground next to each other to imitate the circumference of the required tree. Strap cam to cluster of stakes. Done.
Hahaha the whole pin doesn't need to be the correct size just the ends 😂😂 peeled it like a banana
good evening
Oops, meant to say I've never used a settlers wrench.
I like the idea of this, though I wish they would have made it with a hex adaptor welded on so you can use different bits with it.
It don't bite in like it should,the drill part should spiral around,but it doesn't,it's defective man,call them
You were right, it needs to be sharpened.
You need a bigger piece of wood haha. The grain in that small piece of wood are too dense.
you cant use a bigger piece of wood because the pegs cant be cut to fit...
cutlerylover Get a larger piece of wood for the posts. Use the same size pegs.
@@UpstateBreezy not to mention if he did get the hole drilled in it would probably split because there wasn’t a lot of meat to it
The WEYLAND one on Amazon is much better quality
Add a little weld under the head. I snapped my head off
Do you just not like this tool?? Cuz every time you would demonstrate the drill bit side of it I could hear it grabbing the wood to start drilling it out but then you would stop and just say it wasn't grabbing. Just saying. Peace ✌
Need more elbow grease.
It should still cut hard wood. If that thing was made correctly it doesn’t matter what kind of wood it is. Cutting bits should always be harder than wood haha. It should take much pressure....the tool should do all the work and shave off chips.
The prototype most likely made using a real auger and worked pretty good. Bet when they started mass production all kinds of corners were cut to cut manufacturer costs and the end product suffered. As long as suckers keep buying they don't care
Don't baton it in. Let the screw tip pull the rest through.
tried that after the video reading comments and it still didnt work at all the wood is too hard
You don't batton a drill bit
what gear test it looks like you are just talking
I have this, used it, it works perfectly when you use common sense. I have made some really cool things. I recommend it.
Old timey crap requires a butt load of work id expect each hole to take 30 mins in a drill press youd spin that bit some 2 thousand times to drill thro by hand id expect more
yes I didnt mind doing it for a while but after 10 minutes thats what I got, even with a powerdrill it took 5 minutes to eventually get 3/4th the way into the wood...
cutlerylover makes ya really respect what our ancestors had to do eh lol nothing a lil elbow grease cant fix
@@argoscenturian6535 I remember on PBS a series where Roy Underhill did all the projects with old time hand tools and it was amazing to watch what someone with training could do.
Keith Newton yup we have definitely lost alot in the last 40 years .prob the greatest loss is patience to actually build anything by hand i find myself constantly getting after my kids cause they spend 5 or ten mins on something then whine its too hard . Unless you put an honest effort in you will never learn and powertools aint learning
The design is garbage, two cutting blades design works best, they are easy to sharpen too. Never had an issue with one going through dry hardwood before( does full them faster though)
First thing to note on the review. When using that bit you are going to have to exert a lot of down pressure on that bit. Survival isn't cotton candy fluff and easy life. I've used the wrench without much problem but again you WILL have to work up some sweat using this, there is no way around that. The number one reason most people fail at survival skills is they do not have the mindset that "this is going to be hard" so they bail out on the task. Exert down pressure on the bit while drilling and it will drill. If its dull, learn to sharpen bits. Its an auger bit like any other welded onto an end fitting. Not really much room there to design something "bad".
Get some gloves, city boy soft hands.
Blabs for 2 min. Skip to 2 min. Makes 1 point, continues to blab. Total value of content: 20 seconds
Soft hands
Battle box. Tools for people who not only don't know how to use tools, but don't even know what kind of tools they need. Or the low quality of the tools they are pawning off of the suckers buying these things. Mylar blanket survivalists and the confident ignorant.
Lack of leverage, lack of tool use, lack of quality. Nice try.
Nice talk, lot of words... Some actual usage footage would have been more helpful.
Anyone who buys battlebox anything is an arm chair camper. Anyone who has actually done anything knows their crap is ridiculously over priced. Aluminum cook sets at titanium prices... 3 dollar harber freight siphon ten bucks. Etc... everything looks junky. I guess it's okay. Anyone dumb enough to buy it, would probably never really use it. Other than in their backyard. $75 on their site. $59 on another. Next time get a real anger. It'll cut through anything.they are used on Ebay about 1/3 the price for a multi-piece set.
First
yes youre first
@@konstantinalmhofer1796 yay
First what
Man. I do a lot of primitive/historical woodworking and there are WAY better ways and tools to do those two things. With very simple tools and hard wood is not an issue. For that project you just the basics, bush craft knife, sharp chisel, and folding saw. To make it even easier get a good axe and brace drill. Add a broad axe, froe axe, hand planer, Japanese pull saw and a full chisel set and you can make almost anything. Build a cabin and all the furniture in it.
Nothing that a couple thousand dollars worth of tools can't fix.
@@jgbullen No way unless you are buying top of the line Gränsfors Bruk axes. You can have a very nice set of carpentry tools for dirt cheep especially if you buy used on Ebay. I've spent more on a single gun then all of my middle ages woodworking tool kit. The biggest cost was my broad axe because i had it custom made for me by a blacksmith. For what he wanted to do it's under $75 in tools. Probably a lot less because he definitely already owns a bush craft knife.
@@sharpie443 OK and I was not making fun. I already own a lot of tools and don't need a new hobby handcrafting stuff Settlers had no power tools but they also had nothing else to do and would spend all winter carving something. If I need to drill a hole I yell DWalt and it comes running.
@@jgbullen No power in the woods and I don't have to buy a new $100 every ten years. I still use modern tools but I try and use hand tools as much as possible. It's fun and you learn a lot more about woodworking. For one thing you find out that screws and nails are not really needed for most things.
Great for you. I have a lot of hand tools you mention. Years ago there was a guy from NC on PBS who had a woodworker shop. I think I watched every episode more than once. He also cut himself a lot so be careful.
Dislike
Another battlebox exclusive--fail.
Seems gimmicky 🤷🏽♂️
🤔… maybe if you put some effort into it. Think of it like a cheeseburger. Clearly you manage cheeseburgers ok