In this video, we go over the most effective techniques to pass the break on a longboard.
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00:00 Intro
00:56 The Push Through
02:07 The Turtle Roll
03:46 The Dive Under
06:28 Key Element - Transition Time
06:51 Key Element - Sweet Spot
07:27 Tip - Channels
07:53 Tip - Time Yourself
08:24 Tip - Wait for Opportunities
08:41 About Barefoot Surf
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Also, wait for a lull in the sets before paddling out. Every surfer should do this regardless of board type. Save your energy for the waves
The pivot around and take the wave to your back with your board tilted 45 up is also a good way to hold your position in medium size white water. With practice you can do It very quickly.
I'd actually always try to hold on to my board... Some guy told me to not go out if I can't hold on to my board when I started surfing. Still my #1 rule
I stopped doing this when my leash snapped.
+1000
Yep you don't want the leash breaking and leaving you stranded in a set. Happened to me today 😅
@@Nebulation 🤔
Great tutorial - so clear and detailed with great underwater images. Thank you!
Two things... 1 When you turtle, the closer you hold the board to the nose, the less leverage the wave will have to rip it out of you grasp. 2 You should never ditch your board. The leash is there as a backup in case you ACCIDENTLY lose control of your board. It's not there so you can bail and endanger everyone behind you. You could seriously injure or even kill someone by just letting the wave take your board. If you are about to get hit by a big wall of white water and turtling is not going to work, you can hop off, point the board to shore, hold the leash where it meets the board, go under and bend your arm so it absorbs the pull when the wave hits. It's not painless, but it's still safer as the board will not fly around as much and will also have a faster recovery
I do that sometimes but the pressure is too much for my shoulder. It would be nice if they built a leash where you could use both hands to hold the end of the leash. Maybe extend the area at the end of the leash with 8 more inches.
Just look behind you and make sure there’s no one there.
Probably not the best idea to have your hands caught between the leash and board.
@@ULiel101 Yeah, I shredded the skin off one of my fingers by holding onto the base of the leash in a big wave.
@@ULiel101 I heard about a guy that got open fracture of finger by holding the leash nearby the surf.
Excellent advice! Timing the sets really helped me. I also like going halfway out and waiting for cleaner water. It's much easier to wait than to struggle through waves. Ditching your board is the worst option. When you ditch your board, the leash will stretch as it pulls on your leg. The board might come back to you quickly, so make sure you cover your head. It might also hit someone, so be especially careful. Have fun!
Very high quality content. Thank you for this!
If a wave is breaking right on you, you can start the roll late, and turtle roll only "half way" so that one rail is facing skyward right when the lip hits, providing a narrower board target. But you keep rolling right at impact, which helps protect you. It's a very refined move, but it has its place in certain conditions and situations.
🙏🏽😍
Wow! You Slicing the impact zone! Epic! Tell me more secrets
thats great video! thanks a lot for its existence!) all surfing school have to show it to students!
A lot of comments here saying never let go of your board. It certainly should not be the defacto response, but sometime it is the only option. As someone who surfs longboards and mid lengths, my piece of advice to shortboarders is if there is a longboarder in the water and s/he is actively trying to paddle away from you when a closeout monster set is coming - don't paddle after them. If you don't surf longboards in big surf, you don't appreciate what the longboarder is trying to do.
It's one thing to come here and not see the basic method of presenting the longboard rail-first when duck diving and pushing through, but to have option 3 being to ditch the board, and to have you kooks making out like it's other people's fault for being behind you as you BOTH try and paddle out of the impact zone, as though the other person is stupidly trying to follow you. Hey, all kooks in our own way, depending on the day you or me... killed by a head injury
i agree, if someone is behind you, and your on a long board, you just have to eat the wave. If there's no one around, there's no harm in it. Just like anything, situational awareness is key. @@davecasey8087
This video is wonderfully done. Very thorough for a total novice like me.
Thanks 🙏🏼
Excellent! Thanks!
Fantastic video, I saw one error I do during the turtle roll, can't wait to try now!!! Thanks guys!!!
I read a tip to put pressure on the top of your board during a turtle roll and that made so much sense.
Good tips in here, some of which I got to learn the hard way. 😆
Great video tutorial. The camera work and instructions are gerally really effective. My only criticism is the bit about throwing the board away and relying on legrope. Looks ok at this break with no one around but when its a surfschool and they are close together...carnage. Thanks
I’ve found that when I’m long boarding when a bigger wave is coming putting your weight on the back will obviously make the wave go under u. And if it’s bigger it’ll throw your board up and or make u roll backwards. Which obviously for bigger waves turtle roll tends to be the best option. But I’ve found that actually moving forward pushing your nose doing will make you and your board just go straight through the wave
Thanks! This will be needed when I go surfing with my nsp 7'2 as it has a lot of volume
Same with my 7’0” mal
So helpfull and clear. Thank you so much
🤎
When you dive under you can easily grab your boards leash attachment whilst dipping under a wave (unless its huge), that keeps the board right by you
Great Video! Beginners should know that its not good to hold the board between themself and a breaking wave while walking out. Longboards offer so much volume the wave just takes you with the board flying back to the beach. I met a person taking bad knee problems from a accident like that.
yeah i got a rib injury that way
So what should I do? What is the alternative?
Hold the board such that you are between the wave and the board (so that the board is slightly behind you when walking out)
Playgounds at Nusa Lembongan...best beginner wave and also barreling on big days.
Maaaaan those waves look fun!
same thoughts!
Wish more people saw this, nothing scarier than a rogue surf board flying at you. Using the Surfers ski lift (the rip at the edge of the break) is my go to, witg caution obviously, it means you have to negotiate currents and often rocks
Great!
Very cool
Nothing better for getting out back than getting that turtle roll down..)
I found pushing through the edge of a vertical wall very soon to break, needs anticipation of the slap in your face by the lip that will next lift your body away from the board. So I try to grab the rails firmly and raise into a plank position until the lip is past my feet, to avoid being floated/pushed back towards the tail then wasting time and energy to seek again the correct paddling position.
If you are punching through the wave on your stomach, it really helps to sort of caterpillar your whole body off the board so that more of the water passes through. If you're going to turn turtle, it helps to have a little wax on the rails near the nose to improve your grip. A few other techniques: You can actually duck dive a lot of longboards just before the wave breaks by knifing through at a 45 degree angle. And rather than ditch your board, point the nose toward shore and grab the leash near the plug (or if you have enough time, flip the board over so the water passes over the convex bottom, but watch the fin...). If you're facing moderate-size whitewater, rather than ditch, get off the board, reach across the nose and cradle the board under your arm as you sink the nose. This works in more waves than you might think, but hang on tight to the opposite rail. Another clever move is to sit on the board, sink the tail so the nose sticks up. Swing the board around as the wave breaks so you sort of slice through the face. Saves a lot of energy. Finally, and this is a really old school technique (pre leash): If you're faced with a wall of whitewater, paddle like hell toward it, jump up on your board and kick it over the whitewater as you jump straight down. If you do it right, the board will clear the whitewater and you can swim to it after you surface...but obvs don't do this with a lot of people around, or in an onshore wind, as much can go wrong...last point: if you really, really have to ditch in the face of a breaking wave, make sure the board isn't perpendicular bc the lip can guillotine it...
Thank you 🙏🏼🙏🏼
watching this after getting absolutely worked yesterday lol
Nice video. can i use the turtle roll in bigger waves 6 to 8 ft on a midlength?? i found it really hard to duck dive and i get smashed all the time!
If duck diving is not available to you then the turtle roll is the next most preferable method. 6-8ft waves however are very big and powerful. There may be times when the wave is simply too strong for you to complete this technique. The dive under last resort can also be an option too if need be.
You also can do a modified duck dive by grabbing the nose of your longboard tucked under your arm diving down feet up in the air right before the wave breaks, basically the tail of your board will be sticking straight up and will cut through the wave like a knife.
Hey! Do you happen to have a video of somebody performing that technique? I'm very interested
@@clari1 just try in small waves to sink in the nose at an angle. Use your bodyweight too.
I've never actually done a turtle roll longboards are too big for me to control and shortboards don't really need it, you can just pierce through yeah and as mentioned in this video, it's actually kind of hard, I should work on it
The answer is to ride a board that is appropriate for the conditions or ride where the conditions are appropriate for your board. Trying to muscle a 10’ longboard through hard breaking big waves is very difficult no matter what technique you use. A board that you can simply push down nose first and smoothly dive under a wave like that is the correct selection.
Your dive under technique can be made better by holding on to the part of the leash closest to where you loop it to the board (with the Velcro). It’ll reduce how much the board drags you with the wave, not be so dangerous to others and increase the lifespan of your leash. As somebody already said, this is a last resort, you should try and surf intelligently using rips
The white water rips the leash out of your hand, youch.
if you have a lose grip, it happens very easily or if you arent paying attention, the leash can pinch your fingers. i try to pull the back of the board underwater with me, but still be mindful of the leash being yanked out (and it does hurt) @@Dobertathon
Thanks for the great video! Question on the turtle roll: during a recent surf lesson the instructor specifically mentioned to keep your head touching the board under water, so that if the board is pushed down by the force of water it doesn’t smash into your face. In the video you mention to keep distance between self and the board. What are your thoughts on this? Thanks!
I longboard and turtle a lot but I don’t usually have my head touching the board. Most often I keep distance exactly like they show in the video. Maybe try both techniques in small waves and see which works best with you
@@mach5drms12 makes sense, will try as you suggest! Thanks
Another option is having one arm bent with your elbow against the board to prevent the board contacting your face. Then the water can still push board and user deeper with no risk a hard impact.
Hey Jeremy. We teach the turtle roll technique with an emphasise that once underwater, you should: 1. Leave some space between your body and the board 2. Ensure the nose is sunk in the water 3. Your arms should have a slight bend in them 4. Your head should NOT be close to the board 5. And your board should be sealed to the water Having a slight bend in the arms and space from the board when going under the wave will give you more control of the board. It also ensures you don't actually have contact with your head to the board, which could result in an injury. Hope this helps!
Thanks for the additional information! Looking forward to trying this out.
What is this spot?
Great video. Funny thinking this guy had to re create every mistake possible. All while he’s missing some good waves. That didn’t go un noticed my friend.
My tech that’s never failed me on any wave or board to date: hold board flat on water. Reach across and grab a rail. Keep it flat, and dive through the wave while holding the board. Has literally never failed. Just have to have moderate arm/shoulder strength and a very easy technique.
Yes. surprised this wasn't mentioned. It's also a great way to save energy when you're paddling out and can still touch the bottom. I probably use this technique most of all. Just don't get in the way of a lip or it will rip your arm out of your socket...
Could you describe that a little more? Are you staying on top of the board? And when what do you mean by reach across?
I do it like this: hop of the board to the left, at the nose reach over with your arm and grab the opposite rail very firm (!!! I actually put some wax there so it is not slippery). Then dive under and push the nose of the board with you under water. The board will now pull hard and you have to grab it firm. Not very elegant, but I get surprisingly big waves with this techniques. Since it sometimes slip, only use this if no one is behind you.
GREAT ADVICE I've punched through massive suluban with this technique.
Could you also list the surfspots in the video please? I would love to know where those beautiful places are
These tutorials were filmed in Nusa Lembongan, Indonesia!
Hang on to your equipment!
Make sure you are using a really strong leg rope, ditch the board throw it behind you towards the beach and dive under the waves and drag the sucker. Lol its amazing when you pop up behind a breaker and you can see your 9'6" mal fluttering around on the inshore side of the breaker about 5 times further away than you ever imagined your leg rope could stretch 🤣
Where was this video taken?
It was mostly shot in Lembongan, Bali.
Flip the board when ducking under and hold the nose, water passes over much easier and won’t pull you back
I tried turtle roll but my body keeps floating up causing only small spaces left between me and my board, sometimes my body will even push the board out of the water. I tried to sink but I can’t, anyway to fix that??
Hey there. Ensure the nose of your surfboard is sunk and sealed to the water when completing your turtle roll. It can also help to paddle at the wave with speed and power before flipping your board. Make sure you have a slight bend in the arms once flipped, and a strong hold on the rails of your board. This should help you to gain more control of your board underwater. If these steps are followed correctly, it should help with your problem. We hope this helps!
Bend your elbows 90 degrees, then focus on keeping your entire forearms touching the board, up to the elbows. This will cause your body to stay vertical underwater rather than floating horizontally. Dunno why but it always works. Been doing it for years.
I think you might be rolling too far in advance. You want to time the roll to be just before the whitewater washes over you. You definitely need some momentum, too. And, possibly, your body is too horizontal. I try to let my legs sink down at least 45 degrees.
2:56-3:01 100% Nusa Lembongan, Bali 😆
Thanks, I thought that was it. Went there 18years ago but had one of my best surfs ever at Lacerations. W I am very fond of that place.
If it’s a bigger day I ditch the board but hold the rail guard close to the board and swim under. That way the board isn’t gonna hit anyone.
Exactly. This technique is a "last resort" option, and should only be used when surfers know they have no one within their close proximity.
I miss Nusa Lembongan...
If you're thinking of ditching your board the first thing you do is look behind. If someone's there you just have to tough it out and try to keep your board. Throwing it away in someone's face is a no-go. That being said, don't paddle out just behind another longboard!
Try paddling around the bloddy break .instead of through the breaking waves where people are riDing the waesv
Since I still find it pretty hard to catch a wave, I figure I turn around and pretend to paddle to catch it. The wave will just leave me in place, so I can turn around and continue paddling out 😅😅😅
Ditch your board as a last resort. With practice you’d be surprised how much board you can duck dive.
Where is this break
Locate the rip tide and let nature do most of the work, but only on a surfboard!!!
What happens if sharks are under the waves?
Stay outta the water if you’re afraid 😅
If you have to ditch your board. Make sure there isn't anyone behind you... Cardinal sin.
Is no one gonna talk about the kid at 5:15 that just disappeared into the whitewash?
Tip one, don’t ride a longboard Tip two, if you must ride one they are for waist high mellow peelers only
How should one learn then?
Your "dive under technique" is recognised by most surfers as a last resort and an absolute must is to check that there is no one behind you that might get hit by your board. If there is you must not throw your board away. Yes it's tough, that's why it is a last resort. Failing to mention this is irresponsible.
They do emphasize it :) Just after they explain the technique
@@Explogene thanks we were just about to write the same, but maybe it was not clear enough. We will make sure to make it as clear as possible next time!
I also feel like it should have been much clearer and probably come both before AND after explaining the “technique”. This should be considered an absolute last resort. I literally got a friend in the hospital at the moment because of some $#@ longboarder doing this without even looking while they were both paddling back out. He might not walk again. The issue with this tutorial is that you frame it as “a technique”. It’s not. It’s a last resort that should never happen, especially on a longboard.
Ive always called that "Bailing the board". It's sort of admitting defeat. I surf some crowded breaks and try very to keep control or at least contact with my board. Shits gonna happen. But paddling out and being in control (and safe) are more important than riding waves imo.
You really need to think about other surfers if you dump your board. Absolutely last option.
Leash
Never ditch your board ever on purpose!
It’s an Eskimo roll.
Got my nose broken by some stupid Japanese tourist "ditching"
Das brett loslassen 😂 wie dumm ist der tipp denn. Und sack gefähtlich für alle anderen.😅
this is a terrible video. first- do not let go of your board. second- do not let go of your board. third- see points one and two. fourth- if you can't figure out how to get out in such small waves you should try a different sport. in any real line up you will be sent home for this kind of foolishness. a useful video would show how to properly get a longboard out in large surf as opposed to promoting dangerous behavior in tiny surf.