This SIMPLE wood finish will save you DAYS of shop time! (Shellac)
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▼EXPAND THIS SECTION FOR IMPORTANT INFO▼ *Tools used in this video:* - Coffee grinder: amzn.to/3ERazA7 - Digital scale: amzn.to/3gtNEkT - Magnetic stirrer: amzn.to/3Ev84SL - Tiger shellac flakes: amzn.to/3OpGOcK - More wood finishing videos: kzhead.info/channel/PL-gT7JMZFYje9AEX4bPTmWUZV9qyZRYi9.html ★THIS VIDEO WAS MADE POSSIBLE BY★ Fisch Forstner and drill Bits: amzn.to/3KT440D *Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around!* (If you use one of these affiliate links, we may receive a small commission) *Some other useful links:* -More videos on our website: stumpynubs.com/ -Subscribe to our e-Magazine: stumpynubs.com/browse-and-subscribe/ -Check out our project plans: stumpynubs.com/product-category/plans/ -Instagram: instagram.com/stumpynubs/ -Twitter: twitter.com/StumpyNubs ★SOME OF MY FAVORITE CHEAP TOOLS★ -123 Blocks: lddy.no/vpij -Mechanical Pencils: amzn.to/2PA7bwK -Lumber pencil: amzn.to/2QtwZjv -Pocket Measuring Tape: amzn.to/2kNTlI9 -Irwin Drill Bit Gauge: amzn.to/2AwTkQg -Nut/Bolt/Screw Gauge: amzn.to/2CuvxSK -Self-Centering Punch: amzn.to/2QvbcrC -Self-Centering Bits: amzn.to/2xs71UW -Angle Cube: lddy.no/10nam -Steel Ruler: lddy.no/10mv7 -Utility knife: amzn.to/3nfhIiv -Center-Finding Ruler: lddy.no/10nak -Bit & Blade Cleaner: amzn.to/2TfvEOI -Digital depth gauge: amzn.to/3mwRf2x -Wood Glue: amzn.to/3mqek6M -Spade Bits: amzn.to/3j8XPtD ★SOME OF MY FAVORITE HAND TOOLS★ -Digital Caliper: amzn.to/384H1Or -Marking Gauge: lddy.no/10muz -Marking knife: lddy.no/10mv0 -Narex Chisels: lddy.no/sqm3 -Stanley Sweetheart Chisels: amzn.to/3y5HDOc -Mini Pull Saw: amzn.to/2UEHBz6 -Gent Saw: lddy.no/ss2x -Coping saw: amzn.to/2W7ZiUS -Shinwa Rulers: lddy.no/zl13 ★SOME OF MY FAVORITE POWER TOOLS★ -Miter Saw: amzn.to/3gqIlQ8 -Jointer: amzn.to/3yc3gfZ -Planer: amzn.to/3mn6BGF -Router: amzn.to/3grD22S -Sander: amzn.to/3DdvD0Y -Cordless drill: amzn.to/3D9ZiIm -Brad nailer: amzn.to/3gsRkjH -Mini Compressor: amzn.to/3mvrmQr -Bladerunner: amzn.to/2Wl0TtJ -Jig Saw: amzn.to/3zetTBY -Scroll Saw: amzn.to/3gq9qDc -Multi-Tool: amzn.to/3muZuMi ★SOME OF MY FAVORITE OTHER TOOLS★ -Drill Bits: amzn.to/3B8Ckzh -Forstner Bits: amzn.to/3kk3wEI -Shop Vacuum: amzn.to/2Wkqnbl -Machine Setup Blocks: amzn.to/3gq7kDh -Counter-Sink Bit: amzn.to/37ZukUo -Featherboard: amzn.to/3DeqHsq -ISOtunes Hearing Protection (Save $10): bit.ly/3BHYdH7 (If you use one of the affiliate links above, we may receive a small commission)
Would there be any advantage to starting with the 1lb mix for deeper penetration for 1 or 2 coats then going to a heavier mix after that?
In your description of two pound at 4:00 and again for the three pound at 4:38 you state that the shellac is mixed with water. I think that should be mixed with alcohol.
@@onlineconsumer4796 Yes, I misspoke and meant to say alcohol, as I explained everywhere else in the video.
@@StumpyNubs Great video as always. What would the ratio be for the rest of the metric folks please.
@@seanmifsud9242 The ratio is roughly the same weather you use ounces, grams or mL. So, 4 mL of alcohol for every 1 gram of flakes.
As part of my cabinet makers apprenticeship nearly 60 years ago I was taught how to apply ‘French polish’ which is shellac I believe. Part of the application process was to apply the polish to the wadding on the inside of the ‘rubber’ or the wad as you describe it and then between coats add a little spot of ‘white oil’ to the surface of the linen outer. I think the white oil was probably mineral oil but it was never explained as such. This process stopped each coat sticking or pulling on the previous coat. I watched my instructor apply somewhere around 20 coats to a 16 foot mahogany boardroom table over the period of a few days without a problem. It looked like he had placed a sheet of glass on top of the table when he had finished. Very clever man, he taught me a lot, happy days.
Very helpful, thanks again. What about applying cut shellac over a well cured walnut oil? I feel sometimes the oil enhances the wood grain, depending on wood type, followed with the shellac. Comments?
The "white oil" you mentioned above is mineral oil. Moisten the pad with a few drops and mineral oil and add your next coat.
Bar none, the best, most comprehensive video on shellac I’ve ever seen! If I had you as a shop teacher (which I took from middle school through high school) I may not have become a psychologist.
@@dtork47 Totally agree. If a project didn't need the 'tough' finish that some people always want, I would advise a customer that I would apply an oil finish ( to enhance the grain, as you say) then a couple of coats of shellac and then a hand rubbed paste wax. They always came out exquisite - not a plastic looking synthetic finish, not high gloss but a durable, repairable and silky smooth natural look.
@@cgrovespsyd so how do you feel about that decision now? 😆
I came here because of the thumbnail with no interest in shellac. Watched this entire video and hung on every word. It’s amazing how interesting almost anything can become when you have someone who is knowledgeable, well spoken, and able to put his experience in such neat, easy to understand portions. I’d listen to a 20 minute video of this guy explaining the process of paint drying. Thank you for taking your expertise and sharing it with us all!
I totally agree. I had an interest in shellac before I came here, but you expressed the feelings perfectly.
@@geoycs He's not advocating a French polish. Just because one applies shellac, it doesn't mean said person is using it for the technique of French polishing.
Same here. 😊
I just shellacked myself , it was that interesting .
Looks like I’m late to the party. Thank u so much for taking the time to submit this amazing video. You answered EVERY question I had and expounded on things that I THOUGHT I knew!
Excellent. Finally an honest video on a great natural product. I've been using pre-mixed and flake shellac for fifty or more years. Started using it when I was a kid because it is what I found in our garage to refinish an old radio I saved. Dad showed me how easy it was to fix shellac in the areas I messed up. I've used so many other products over the years too and came back to shellac for many projects. Most contemporary wood workers and refinishers have no idea the beautiful finish you can create with it. It takes more work but a French Polish or true Asian shellac lacquer finish is much more beautiful than any modern, synthetic finish. As for shellac's shelf life, it is very dependent upon the atmosphere it is stored in. The carrier in shellac is nearly 100% straight alcohol. Alcohol is hyrophilic (water loving) so once opened (or compounded from flakes), shellac starts sucking the water out of the air. Its shelf and pot life is very dependent upon humidity and where and how it is stored. It may be hard to believe but I have used mixed shellac that is over ten years old with absolutely no issue. The caveat is I live in a very dry, desert climate. I also store my mixed or pre-made shellac in the polar dry air of a shop freezer. Lastly, on a side note, if you strip an antique shellac finish with denatured alcohol you will end up with a pot of vintage gold. Add some fresh alcohol, run it through a fine meshed filter and then let the stripped alcohol/shellac mixture evaporate over the next few days. You will have a dried resin of vintage shellac in the bottom. You can later add fresh alcohol to it and use it as a toner or base coat for a new project. I've re-claimed many antique shellac finishes and re-purposed them on new woodworking projects. A new coat of fresh shellac for the final surface and you'd never know the new piece was wasn't vintage itself. Thanks again for the excellent content.
Fantastic advice! Thank you!
Re using the antique shellac is incredible
I never imagined you could reuse antique shellac. That's the coolest thing I've read all year. Thanks for sharing!
My father was a master carpenter. He used Shellac almost exclusively! His entire home was Birds Eye Maple with Shellac! Beautiful!
FOR ALL UK VIEWERS : a US pint is 16 ounces, an Imperial pint (i.e. UK) is 20 ounces.
As always, your knowledge of finishing is spot on, and I’ve been in the coatings industry for 37 years.
except at around 4:05 he says that a 2 pound cut is 2 pounds of flakes in one gallon of WATER, instead of alcohol. He misspeaks WATER a second time about a minute later.
@@uncleheinrich5038 Yeah, I did notice that. I think he knows the difference, he just said it wrong.
I don't even work with wood more than once a year and I am obsessed with this channel and your aptitude for teaching and explaining. This channel rules.
Here's a tip that has helped me preserve all kinds of liquid products stored in paint can type containers. The containers are air tight when properly sealed, but every time they are opened fresh air and oxygen gets in...eventually they get a skin, hardened bits, or the product thickens. For those of us who are welders, we often have a tank of pure argon loitering about the shop. For those of you who are not welders, you can buy a small tank of argon and a cheap regulator and let it loiter about the shop. Argon is one of the inert gasses, which means it will not react with anything, and it is heavier than air so it will displace the air in a container. I hold the lid as close to being closed as possible and release a good amount of argon gas into the container and then close and seal the lid. Since I started doing this, every time I open the products I treat this way they are as fresh as the day I first opened them. FYI, I believe argon gas is also used in non-vacuum sealed food containers that are in your local grocery store.
I use propane for this, from a propane torch. I have taped over the holes which admit air to mix with the propane before leaving the nozzle, and I figure the propane has a higher propensity to mix with oxygen that the finish does, so it should work even better than inert gas. But based on your comment, I guess I'm wrong about that... I think the propane helps, but I find a skin on my varnish anyway, after storing it several years. I guess I'll put a Tee-valve on my argon TIG regulator and try it your way. Thanks for writing!
Propane is a better choice. Probably air diffused in over time, no good way around that unless you can or jar it. Propane molecules are bigger than argon atoms
Great tip! I used to work in a polyurethane and epoxy manufacturing company, we would use argon as a blanket in our containers as well to prolong shelf life. We would also recommend to customers to get small cans of argon for their own container supply to purge all air from the environment out of their containers.
Simple marbles is what I use. I just add marbles to the mason jar I used to mix the shellac until the liquid level reaches the top. Very simple.
Jef M. Will this work with a 75/25 mix of argon and c02?
And this is why Stumpy is my favorite woodworking channel! Straight to the point facts but somehow still entertaining.
Methylated spirits is denatured alcohol to Aus, Canada, Britain, South Africa... For anyone else who wondered, denatured alcohol isn't a term I was familiar with.
In Canada (Quebec), I found Solvable brand "methyl hydrate" for very cheap at most hardware stores. Indeed, "denatured alcohol" does not exist here :)
Not that you are suggesting methyl hydrate it denatured alcohol, but…………..Technically, it is not denatured alcohol. Denatured alcohol is ethanol with a small amount of a “denaturing” additive. Which is usually, I believe (don’t quote me) methanol. Methyl hydrate is pure methanol. I was using ethanol for a while when I could get it. I cannot anymore. I was forced to try methanol and it works very similarly, if not exactly the same. However, methanol is a little more dangerous as it absorbs through the skin more easily than ethanol. (as per the Australian MSDS sheet). I have gotten on my skin in great quantities occasionally and am still alive, take that for what it’s worth. If poisoning does occur the remedy/cure is drinking regular ethanol (whiskey, rum etc. ). Look it up. Good luck all!
I use my foreshots from my still...then drink the hearts while refinishing my wood...😮🎉
Your next video should be on how to apply a french polish finish. It is definitely one of the best things to do with shellac & there is nothing that can truly reproduce that look.
My grandfather used shellac for everything after sharpen an axe or anything that may not be used for awhile a wipe of thin cut shellac went on the edge and handle. Battery terminals, wire splices , rust stop , glue for venier that was starting to release, the list goes on and on and it's all reversible with a wipe of alcohol Aboard my boat I find it very useful to have a small bottle handy to repair that ding in the varnish that left unattended will de laminate your week long varnish job He had a can with a lid and a wick of cloth setting on the work bench at ready. Loved the smell of his shop
I did not think that I needed a 17 minute video on shellac but now that I realize how much I did I'm ready to start my life over again! Oh, and finally I have a reason to purchase that magnetic stirrer that I've been wanting since my youth!
Finally ! Some one Who Knows what he's talking about. You have a friend forever!
This is as informative as it gets and the example by which we should judge all other "informative" youtube content. Thank you Stumpy Nubs! Saved to FAVS? Done! Subscribed? You bet!
Due to this video I ordered $100 worth of dewaxed shellac flakes in different colors. What a good investment! I used all variations of polyurethane and oils for the last 10 years and I can't believe how easy shellac is to work with! I never considered it since I had this idea in my head that only old man are using it because they are stuck in their time and never tried modern finishes. I also thought it is as brittle as a sugarcoating. Boy was I wrong! It is such a pleasure to work with. I am about to try shellac over tungoil on one of my projects, can't wait to see how that turns out. This channel is so underrated compared to other big youtubers! Thank you for continuing these highly informative videos and teaching a whole generation the secrets of woodworking, for FREE! 🙏
Another way to dissolve smaller amounts of shellac flakes fast is by placing your jar of flakes+alcohol in a hot water bath. Not boiling, just hot. Mix the flakes from time to time. The flakes will be completely dissolved in about 15 minutes. Let the shellac cool to room temperature and it’s ready for use. Over time, I found that a 1:5 ratio works best for me.
1:5 by weight, right? I'm new to shellac and to finishing in general, therefore my questions might sound basic. Sorry 😅
You’re such a great teacher and woodworker, Stumpy. I’m lookin’ forward to seein’ the day you eclipse a millions subs! 🙌🙌🙌 You and The Samurai Carpenter are LONG OVERDUE for a 1,000,000 subscribers.
I'd just like to mention: your delivery is beautifully clear. Well enunciated, good tone, clear words, sharp stops - and no crappy background music. Great job! Thank you
Thank you so much! This is the most informative video on shellac ever. So extremely helpful!
Dude, your content is consistently outstanding. 👍🏻✌🏻
For me, it's shellac and BLO. Those are my two main finishes. I only use lacquer if I want almost no color change. I also like to do about 7 shellac coats by hand, then 400 grit sand, then 2 spray can coats of shellac. It leaves a perfect finish. One thing I will say is that I think the "dissolves itself" claim is a bit overblown. It definitely can leaves streaks and drips that the next coat won't dissolve. Apply shellac to a 12x6xx3 mitered corner box and try to do it without ever using a sandpaper to level the coats. You will get buildup on the edges. With a brush, you can easily get streaks that the next brush on will not magically make disappear. Maybe it's technique, and it's just me. This is why I prefer finishing videos where it isn't just a flat, large board being finished. No one ever actually does that beyond a table/desk top of whatever kind. 99% of projects are three dimensional. I need videos of actual practical applications. This isn't meant as a dig, or anything, perhaps just constructive criticism, or rather a suggestion. I have been woodworking for 3yrs, and I am still waiting for a creator to do a comprehensive finishing series on actual projects. A chair, a box, a dresser, a table with odd shaped legs. Things that people actually need finishing help with. I think most people can finish a flat board that you aren't concerned with another surface mating to. How do you shellac a M&T that is not just flush, but is set inwards, and has created a corner on all four sides? How do you shellac internal curves without getting spill over on the sides? I'd kill for a 5-10 part series, with each video being about one finish type, and have it being used on an actual project.
Paul Sellers video on applying shellac is done on a small bench and he finishes the whole thing. I use shellac a lot but I do have some problems sometimes with drips or fat edges too.
I've used a paint brush with shellac numerous times. Brush not too wet so as to avoid buildup and drips. Works for me. Shellac...lac bug... lacquer - referring to numerous thin layers, often sprayed - all words and process are related here. Shellac is versatile. I usually apply an orange tung in the same way as the French polish style shellac process shown here but when I use shellac itself, brushing is fast, forgiving, and very easy with a metho melt for the flakes and a metho washout. And really I'm just following the instructions on the jar for this approach. 👍 Have fun!
i like the 190 proof ever clear as a mixer for my shellac cocktail.
Shellac is so great that Zinsser made BIN, a magical primer that sticks to everything or almost and fixes almost any drywall, wood, difficult to paint surface other than a gaping hole. No more water damaged particle board or MDF edges, peeling paint because of kitchen spatter, or bubbling paint over spackle or plaster repairs.
This is such a GREAT show. I feel like I could see Stumpy Nubs on PBS right next to Bob Ross and the new yankie work shop. I'm super excited to try shellac out. Thanks
How about Stumpy with Bob's hair, Norm's accent, doing an out-door furniture project?
In the South African set construction industry, we use HUGE amounts of shellac (like 40 - 60L) per project. Used to seal flats, floors, anything to be painted or stained . Used on Sondor foam so that we can colour it without the paints disappearing without trace into the foam. Mixed with spirits (cheaper) and by eye by our storeman. Cowboy I know, but it works.
Some may think that measurement method is inconsistent: I think it's inspirational in letting one mix close enough, without worrying about it!
Why use it on anything to be painted or stained? You mean before or after you paint/stain?
@@Its_RichieRich generally we use inexpensive pine (I mean, these sets are huge). Shellacking before painting or staining obviates against patchiness, the stain takes smoothly, and the paint doesn't disappear into the softer wood.
I learned more in this video than 2 hours of google research
Wow I had no idea that it was not petroleum derived!! I’m keen on trying shellac for sure
Shellac is definitely my favorite finish to! My one piece of advice to everyone that watches this would be to store it in a pop top type airtight container like Tupperware or Rubbermaid containers. I started out storing mine and canning jars too inevitably you will get shellac on the threads for the lid and that will be the last time you ever open that jar without great difficulty.
I've had the same problem with canning jars. I use some plastic, like a zipper-lock bag, between the glass and the lid.
Some jars have a glass lid with a wire bail and flat red rubber gasket. They would probably be okay. I don't usually keep shellac mixed up, but I can see how it would seal a screw top forever.
Is it safe to use shellac on dining table tops? Will the occasional water spill mess it up?
@@oldporkchops I would not use shellac for that. It would be susceptible to water and alcohol damage. However, you could use shellac as a sanding sealer on the bare wood, then follow that with polyurethane.
@@briantaylor9266 Got it. Thanks for sharing your advice. I appreciate it.
Ive been making my own Shelac for a few years now. Absolutely best finish on the planet. I bought a rock tumbler from Harbor Freight for like 20 bucks. It spins a mason jar for as long as you need it to. I usually spin a mason jar w about the same volume as your video for a day or two depending on how big the flakes are.
If only they train salesmen like you, sir.
Interesting stuff - Here in the UK i did two courses in French Polishing and the information I got was from old school polishers who worked with Shellac in Piano Factories or in Music shops piano workshops. Always I was shown how to apply white refined mineral oil to the pad to lubricate the surface as it was applied- second choice was linseed oil to lubricate, and the finish was not applied in straight lines at first - it was figure of 8 and after a "body" was built up it was time to spirit-off to lift the oil out to get the dry finish with no oil on the surface - this was using shellac polish thinned with denatured ethanol which in the UK we call Meths (Methylated spirit). The shellac is dissolved in ethynol before use for the main polishing and various shades available where darker stuff was called Garnet Polish. I stopped short of using the old 19th Century finish called Acid and Chalk which gave a depth of shine like none other but was horribly hazardous to handle. Grand piano lids were given this treatment. Not for me - and now I see the industry uses Polyester which is horrible and needs a factory to apply it. Thanks for this video it looks like you've found a good way that is less hazardous and a nicely presented tutorial.
Thanks for that extra info man.
This is one of your best videos I have ever watched. Never used shellac before but I'll be damned if im not going to go out tomorrow and buy some! Thanks again for all the effort and knowledge you pack into these videos, its much appreciated!
You delivered on your promise, for sure! I learned more about shellac in this video than in dozens of others, combined. Thanks, Stumpy Nubs!
I did a lot of work on the oldest Queen Ann in Olympia, Washington, the Byrd House. It was an interesting place. Everything, right down to rafters, floors and so on is cedar. Too, the original floors were all done in amber shellac. Up to the point of working on the Byrd House, I'd never used shellac. Though I was the painter, I was the one they called on for unique wood repairs, like patching holes in the floors where heat registers had been removed, and finishing newly added floor sections when the attic was converted to living space. [That was because I replaced some missing and badly damaged pieces of molding and gingerbread on my time and dime.] I didn't have any idea of how I was going to handle matching the floors. Fortunately, for me, an old timer, working for another contractor, took me aside and told me about shellac ad suggested I get some amber shellac from a local big box. When done, the old vent hole were history and no one could tell they were ever there. Blending the shellac applied to the new [staggered] cedar flooring pieces turned out to be less problematic than I feared (yep, took several coats to match eight years of floor maintenance). Since those days, shellac, both the canned version and the flakes, has been in my finish cabinet. More so when I started using a lathe.
My old colleague always used linen, which he said was less likely to give off fibers as you use it. He would look for an old linen shirt at a second hand store and it would last him for years. He also used wool for the wadding. He said that sometimes the manufacturers of cotton balls extend the product with some synthetic fibers that might dissolve in the alcohol, causing a problem. I don't know if that was true, but that was what he claimed. He also was very careful to turn all of the cut edges of the linen to the inside before tying it off, so that there was less chance of losing fibers. He used paraffin to lubricate the rubber, but he only used a very small amount, and usually only on the first layers. He was very careful to always keep the rubber in motion and always moving with the grain. He also used a soft brush on the first layers, because it was easier to get a thick layer started, which he allowed to dry overnight. The next layers could be done with only short waiting times between. The wadding served as a reservoir, and if you squeezed it very gently, you could control the amount of finish left behind.
Hey woodworkers! You have found your channel. James is truly exceptional. You can always count on him for a helpful and accurate tutorial. I have been using shellac and wax for the last couple of years. This is the best tutorial out there on shellac. I know I sound like a broken record. But, James is the best teacher for woodworking on the Internet.
Your normal videos are excellent, but you've outdone yourself here. Great stuff and very helpful. Thanks very much.
Great video..... Bring back this finish! Poly is denatures certain woodworks !
And shellac smells wonderful. Oh, you say that too.
Your videos are becoming my primary reference to all things woodworking. Thanks for all you do!
at around 4:10 & 4:42, it says the seal coal & full strength shellac cuts are mixed with water. I believe this is supposed to be alcohol.
Yes, I misspoke. Alcohol, not water, as I discuss in detail later in the video.
It tends to be forgotten that when shellac was introduced it was seen as a quick and therefore cheap alternative to oil polishing.
Funny, I didn't know people weren't using shellac. All the woodwork in my home I did with shellac. I stained, sanded, shellacked, sanded, shellacked. Cabinets, floors, furniture, etc. Love it.
Really appreciate your teaching style, succinct, all the information you need and none that you don't. Just starting on my solo woodworking journey and I really dig the calm, no nonsense approach. Every point you bring up in your videos is always followed up by a good reason why you should do (or not do) something. It's only been 2 weeks or so but I've learned a ton from your vids and you've more than earned a subscribe from me. Appreciate your time man, I know YT isn't paying you near what you could charge to teach classes giving out this same information.
Great tutorial Professor Nubs! I’ve seen a lot of videos on finishes, mostly shellac videos. This explains not only the how to use and apply it, but the why and the complete directions of how to make it. Definitely going into my saved folder and I’m sure I’ll view this as a review video many times. Thanks
No arguments from me. I watched my father French polish in awe as the piece under his hands came to life with a beautiful lustre no synthetic can match. I remember him French polishing the entire woodwork, including skirtings, door jambs and doors in a large house. I still have many of his polished pieces in my house. Needless to say, when he left us age 90, his shoulders were shot.
Shellac is my favorite
I'm so glad you did this video. Dewaxed shellac (I like a 1.5lb cut) has been my secret weapon since my grandfather taught me woodworking in the 70s. I also like to use a .75 lb cut as a wash coat to help with sanding and start the sealing process. I'm in the People's Republic of California so I can't buy denatured alcohol anymore, but I did discover where I can get 99.9% isopropyl alcohol online. Thank you for all you do...I'm a huge fan.
Thanks for bringing this up. Question - Does the 99% isopropyl seem to work exactly the same? I have had staining issues with the various denaturing agents used by different manufacturers over time. I found some 200 proof (100%) ethanol, but gads, the price!
@@RAkers-tu1ey After they outlawed DNA, the first batch if IPA that I got was 99.0%. Took about 3 days to dissolve (I did find that heating it helped with that) and it did stain the wood slightly. This last batch of IPA I found is 99.9% and dissolves in less than a day and doesn't stain. Evidently, the 1% of water makes a huge difference.
@@jeffmonson1 thanks for the reply. I can cope with the time, but I do repairs which involve stain matching. Every new change is another opportunity for frustration. Fortunately, I still have 2 quarts of DNA on the shelf. Good enough for a year or two.
Well, as always you were right. That was hands-down, the best video on shellac I had forgotten in recent years, but as I recently looked back at a large chest, I had made for the wife many years ago, was one that I had used shellac on. It still looks amazing, and I remember how easy it was to work with. I’m building a custom chest starting today, and I will definitely be using shellac.
You are so creatively comforting in your delivery that I imagined you finishing a Stradivarius. I even heard the violin which shall score my application of shellac on my door tomorrow. Truly inspirational video, maestro.
Thank you sir for demystifying shellac. I've been thinking of going that route for ages, and you just convinced me to do so.
Shellac is the finish I started using during the lockdown because I didn't have anything to clean my brushes with and had some on the shelf and clean up was so much easier besides the drying time advantage. Love this stuff and really didn't know how to make my own. Great info as always,Thanks again James!
Comment on Shellac for dining room table tops: My parent's dining room table was shellac finished and it has no problem with ordinary wine/beer spills. The only spill that effectively removed the finish was over 100 proof, and it was not cleaned up right away.
Always love your videos! I also bought that mixer using your link, I actually can use this for another use of mine, mixing nutrients for my fish tanks lol. I'm going to try shellac on my next bookshelf project though, this seems way easier to use than anything else.
Love this video. I was taught how to do this way back in the late 50s as Button Polishing or French Polishing and have always loved the beauty of the finish. It takes patients but is so worth it. It's still my go-to finish for high quality projects.
60 years ago my shop teacher told me about shellac, but I forgot quickly. This video brings back warm memories and a good reminder. heading to the store to get come shellac .
I can't believe I just spent 16 minutes watching a video about... shellac. That was amazing. Thank you.
Amazing video! Long time shellac user here! Things Stumpy missed: If you are mixing your own, start somewhat thick and add more alcohol if you need it. Adding is easy, taking away is wasteful. Personally I like quite thin, my recipe is roughly 1.5 lb cut with about 5 small drops of pure mineral oil for smoothness. Dedicated shellac reducers are available, quite expensive but worth every penny if you want the highest quality shellac. I like the one from Mohawk. If you mix using Klean Strip denatured alcohol (available from most hardware stores) DO NOT use the green “eco friendly” can. It contains too much water, and I have never seen a good batch mixed with it. Look for the standard red can. When it comes to application, a good poultice or a tightly folded cloth are my preference. Having dedicated shellac brushes is also nice, but you should buy good quality soft natural bristle brushes and use them only for shellac. You can let them dry hard, and then soak them in alcohol for 30 minutes or so before next use to soften again.
It seems to me that one could leave to top off the container for a day to a few days to reduce the mixed shellac because the alcohol will evaporate. PLEASE NOTE: I have not used shellac and thus never tested my idea
Re: Eco friendly Kleen Strip denatured alcohol. My understanding is that variety is very low in water. Many denatured alcohols come with variable levels of water but can be quite high. The green Kleen Strip seems to be hard to find in my region. Hence, Everclear. A bit spendy but better for the finish, I am told by experts. You can find Isopropyl alcohol at 95% & 99% at pharmacies, but it can be found at larger quantities at hardware stores. An ACE in my region has a gallon of 99% for $28. Isopropyl will dry slower than Ethanol, which can be an advantage on warm days with kids humidity.
I love shellac. It has a look and feel all it's own. I do like polyurethane and more modern finishes for some things but shellac and some of the other old school finishes really tickle my pickle so to speak. Great video Stumpy. Keep doing your thing.
I've been restoring 16th-19th century antiques for 30 years. In the beginning, my mentor taught me to apply 4 coats of shellac, then top coat with 3 coats of true oil varnish. He had been using this same process for the previous 50 years. We never used dewaxed shellac. In all those years not a single customer complained about the varnish peeling away from the shellac. I also build reproduction and high end furniture, finishing in the same manner. I mostly topcoat with Urethane or Conversion Varnish, always on top of 4-6 coats of regular orange shellac. I've never had a problem with a topcoat peeling. This is just my experience, maybe I've just been lucky all these years. Shellac is an awesome finish, every woodworker should use it.
Could your successful use of waxed shellac be because the wax it contains rises to the top of the coat? If you sand that top coat of shellac, maybe that removes the wax and hence no lifting of the different subsequent finish.
I love Shellac. Orange Shellac. I used it on my homemade countertops made from wood that was heading to the dump.
Ultrablonde dewaxed shellac is also great for adding metalized dye concentrate like Transtint to for a color topcoat. And it works great through an airbrush.
My grandfather only used poly. I use poly, shellac, waxes, paint and others depending on what I am doing and where it's going. I do like shellac and appreciate the video. I commonly use 1 to 1.5 pound cut, FYI
Man, you know stuff...thanks for sharing it ALL!
BLO with a shellac top coat has become my favorite finish. Simple. Easy. Elegant.
Whar is BLO?
This has given me the confidence to tackle a mid-century sideboard that looks a little sorry, thanks!
I'm nothing but an amateur but I love shellac just because it doesn't yellow something like maple very much and the added bonus is that it provides enough protection for 90% of what I build
Love shellac!!!
Great info. I really appreciate the detail and have been exploring different finishes. I'll definitely give shellac a try. I've been using G.F. Arm-R-Seal, Tung oil, Waterlox and Total Boat Halcyon clear depending on the project. I've not tried Osmo/Rubio but also haven't done a table top in awhile. Thanks again and I look forward to the next video.
Great video! One improvement I've found on your technique is to use a condiment bottle to apply shellac to your applicator. Much quicker and easier to use and you won't be in danger of spilling your larger container trying to reach in!
I purchased some 30mm and a 60mm empty graffiti markers. They claim to be air tight and have replaceable nibs and a shaker ball inside.
Rosewood and some other tropical species contain a chemical that inhibits polymerization. You can use poly finishes but they’ll take weeks or months to fully cure. Shellac is a great finish for these woods because it’s unaffected by these oils. You can then top coat with a poly or resin finish if desired.
Best shellac video ever!
I have always seen shellac on the shelves when I was buying polyurethane but never really gave it a thought because I didn’t know anything about it. I think I’ll give it a try.
I use it on pieces which don't get have risk of water/alcohol contamination, such as small boxes. Try a couple of coats of shellac, rubbed down with super fine steel wool and paste wax! It gets silky smooth!
One other great thing about shellac is it’s very easy to remove and apply a more suitable finish if needed, say when an internal piece becomes external or more prone to water. It’s just a great place holder for things when you are uncertain of it’s end use.
Im 75 years old, and been doing woodwork for 60 of them. I have learned a lot from your channel sir. Thankyou, so helpful
One of my favorite videos you've ever done. Thanks Stumpy!
Another great video and well done in explaining its usefulness. I've been using shellac for over 40 years in antique restoration and it is a fabulous finish, however just ensure it is applied in a warm and dry workshop or similar as the alcohol will absorb moisture out of the air and may cause it to "bloom" and take on a white opaque finish. As Stumpy indicated it is very forgiving and minor scratches and blemishes can be easily fixed.
I started using shellac early on as a woodworker. It’s one of very few finishes that causes minimal changes in the color of the wood, If it is clear. As you said you can correct your mistakes even years later with denatured alcohol. I have used shellac as a base for a polyurethane finish. It works great and gives more depth to the product than polyurethane or shellac alone… at least that’s my experience anyway. I don’t understand how someone could spend the money to get “figured” wood and then change it with the finish.
Does it turn already painted (light colors) projects yellow?
@@rosemaryflee that would be an unusual use of shellac. It can be used before painting or staining as a sealer to stop the uneven absorption of paint and stains.
This was great. Thank you.
This is so cool!!
I have been a supporter of shellac for years. It is my go-to finish. Thanks for doing this to explain its great value! And to really up your finish, try learning how to French polish with the shellac. It’s a bit of work, but if you want a higher gloss and a bit tougher finish, it’s beautiful.
Absolutely correct. It's not easy and there might be discouraging moments while trying to get to grips with French polishing, but ultimately the results and personal skill development are very rewarding.
Holy moley I was literally JUST pondering today how to seal my latest project! It’s a small French clear bathroom holder, but I’m in the northeast and the cold times are upon us! Sounds like this might be the way to go if I can dry the piece inside a side room (my “workshop” is on a balcony!)
It's pretty awesome. Also, if you don't want to mix it, you can just buy a can.
it has no noticable odour so you can use it in your house.
Thank you, thank you, thank you.
My wife in her mid 70's is a farm girl raised on a 240-acre farm and they raised all of their own food. Her dad was a carpenter during the week so, her mom and 7 kids ran the farm in his absence. My wife made a comment after watching your video and stated the thing she hated about shellac finishes, was that a chair finished with shellac in humid weather conditions would always stick to their clothes when they sat in it. Which may be reinforcing your point about making sure it wasn't over 6 months old when applied.
I've truly just started looking for KZhead videos to figure out if I should use shellac for my next finish. I have always looked for low VOC finishes for house projects and all the stuff online pushes people towards hardwood floor finishes or expensive oils
Clear shellac is also useful for some metal working projects. I forge decorative items out of non ferrous metals, and sometimes use food coloring to make different colored washes. I love your suggestion about analine dyes and may try that next.
Just be careful - Analine dyes are quite beautiful but toxic and require a lot of care to use.
great info
thanks for being the mentor I always wanted.
I'd very much like to see a video on French polishing. Others have done it but I'm a huge fan of your presentation, knowledge and experience 😁 Already saved and already sourced some flakes. Thankfully denatured alcohol is easy to come by through Lowes and Home Depot here. It's often sold as fuel for chafing dishes, etc.
You really should have a try at traditional French polishing. It is not as easy as simply fadding on shellac, as seems quite common. The process is quite involved, but ultimately very rewarding. Fabian's Tiny Workshop's video on How to French polish, is as good an explanation as you're likely to find.
Pint, pound, ounce… Every time I see an American KZheadr I appreciate the metric system even more.
Thank you! Great info
Pro tip though, if you dissolve or dilute your own shellac, use Everclear instead of denatured alcohol. The denatured alcohol manufacturers don't specify how much water they put in there, it can be up to 40% and it messes with the finish.
10:47
Actually, the bigger concern is that most denatured alcohol contains a lot of methanol, which is toxic. I found out when I was trying to make my own hand sanitizer at the beginning of the pandemic and checking the MSDS of the brands in my hardware stores. So unless you know for sure that your can doesn't contain methanol, use gloves in a well ventilated area. Another reason to use the Everclear, which is a great suggestion.
@@Mike.DeNinno The methanol is what makes it denatured and why it can be sold at a paint store and not at a liquor store.
@@MrSharper802 Yes I know (I am a chemist) but there are other ways to "denature" ethanol other than adding methanol.
@@Mike.DeNinno If it was just methanol it would be mostly ok, that still works as a solvent and burns as fuel, just don't drink it. Bigger concern is the water, you don't want water in shellac.
It also smells amazing! Like Christmas.
Thank you so much for this information!
It turns out that the Minnesota Vikings are both woodworkers and they follow your channel because they sure got shellaced yesterday
Possibly because of too much Everclear....
Phhhfffbbbttt! 😛😛😛
@@johndufford5561 or not nearly enough everclear
@@minnesotasteve I'm a Viking's fan, too. But they didn't exactly excel yesterday
@@johngregg5735 at least they scored! But that’s the vikes, just when you think this is the year they lose 41-0. 😂
Thank you, James! I appreciate all you do, and I never miss your posts.
Thank you!!!
Oh yes! This is what I need. Thanks for this great presentation.