An Awesome Alternative To Brazing HVAC Lines. Staybrite 8 Soft Solder
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This video is for educational purposes. Any and all HVAC repair work is done at your own risk. The DIY HVAC Guy channel is not responsible for any possible damages or injuries caused by the use or misuse of the provided information.
Remember to heat the joint, not the solder. Apply the solder on the opposite side of the heat and let the solder run to the heat. As well, if possible, do all sanding before you cut the pipe. Finally, don’t touch the pipe where you sanded with your skin. You will transfer oil to the pipe and “dirty” the contact point of the solder.
Thanks so much for the feedback sir. I'll be implementing all those tips on the next job. Cheers!
Nice
I’ve never heard of the transferring oil and making it dirty part😂 seems a little over board but hey I guess we learn something new everyday
You can certainly transfer dirt/oil from your skin to the parts. About the heating process, you need to have experience heating the parts up to understand how heat flows. So get after it. It’s not just simple to understand, there are lots of factors involved. Making a solid joint requires that the entire section of the joint to be soldered/ brazed needs to be above the melting point of the solder, so that when the solder is applied, it will flow into the entire joint. And you can’t just burn the crap out of it, controlling the heat is essential... for a good joint and for efficiently. When the joint is done... it’s done, move onto the next joint.
@@Alienspecies635 it’s very true. I doubt it matters with brazing but when using flux and soldering it sure does. You’d be surprised of all the little things can’t prevent solder from sticking or running.
I have been Staybrite for 30 years on residential HVAC. A quick check of their website shows the tensile strengths far in excess of the pressures on the lines. I'm glad you demonstrated it.
@guydickes2177 what’s your experience using Staybright 8 directly on the suction and discharge lines at the compressor? Most comments say stay away from SB8 all together but the ones that say they do use it say due to vibration they do not use it in the compressor connections. Looking forward to your response!
I wrap the valves with wet cloth, and have used Staybright for 30 plus yaesr without a problem. Lower heat requirement; just use flux sparingly@@davidsin4761
I've used it for 40+years.... Best to put the heat at the bottom of the the female joint warm up and add the solder at the top feed it in until it bulges out the bottom..... Wipe with a wet rag and done... Excellent product.... Glad your using it.
Thanks for sharing
@lstar2662552 what’s your experience using Staybright 8 directly on the suction and discharge lines at the compressor? Most comments say stay away from SB8 all together but the ones that say they do use it say due to vibration they do not use it in the compressor connections. Looking forward to your response!
This method and demonstration is a game changer for hesitant DIYers. Thanks.
i've used this a few times, you're right about the solder not liking gaps, its very runny
I have been using that product and method for over 25 yrs. Nice job.
Has worked for me for 20+ years. Can't argue with results.
At one time I used a induction heater (no flames) to solder copper pipes that where next to a wooden wall. Solder melted a lot cleaner.. Makes better looking connections.
I've been using this since I've started in HVAC 20 years ago and I agree this is better in all residential situations. StayBrite 8 has high tensile strength
Tinsel or tensile? Because one matters and one is a Christmas decoration.
"Tensile"
Does this work on 1/4 in and 5/16 refrigerator line for home refrigerators
@@AMERICANPRIDE1100 Yes
Had a customer try this on a walk in cooler. He got solder in the tx and the solenoid body. Pricey repair.
Grandfather started his own HVAC business in the 60’s. He always used soft solder and taught me to use it as well. Never once had an issue with it. I went to a technical school for HVAC just to get my license, and the instructors would get pissed when I’d tell them about soft solder and they’d would claim it wouldn’t work. Lol
Your grandpa was right, I started in the 70’s. My rule for soldering was use what is currently there pretty simple. New work, discharge lines 15%. silphos, dissimilar metals 45%, everything else stay-brite 8. My answer to the guys who say soft solder will fail is it’s probably 95/5 and not stay-brite8 .
It might work temporarily , it is not a high temp rated seal as brazing is. I have always found leaks specially when homeowner jerks around with condenser
The problem with solder is you can get oil and other contaminants in the pipe which can harm the system plus the structural integrity doesn’t compare to braze
StayBrite 8 is the best for new installations. I installed my HVAC equipment with StayBrite two years ago and I haven’t had any leaks. I hate brazing with high heat especially in attics. There are some rednecks who refuse to learn new methods.
Monkey see monkey do , that's all i can say brazing is high temp equipment solder is fir water fir many reasons, but Monkey monkey do"
I used this stuff 6 years ago installing my new furnace and AC and the system has yet to need any service. Nice that a home owner can save some seious money like i did.
Wow! It's so great that you finally made this video. I've been waiting for this one for a long long time.
More to come! 😊
Good work. Easy to follow. The communication pace is perfect!
My only suggestion is to braze the furthest joint first (the suction line on your first example) so that you are not reaching over a hot joint to reach another. This is more important when working on several connections at a time.
That's a great idea! Thank you!
I have a nice scar on my forearm for this exact reason lol. Something I learned tge hard way
Nice video. I always remove the nuts and fill the well in the valves with water before wet wrapping. Thanks for the nitrogen nod. Nitrogen purging is in every manufacture’s installation manual and yet so many people are surprised when they are exposed to it.
I've been wrapping valves heavy with toilet paper wet it good clings tight to valves keep spray bottle keep wet if I have to
Only thing I use when ever possible. I used Staybrite 8 on a 1 1/8 shut off valve for a trane chiller holding 850 pounds of R134a, 5 years later and still no leaks. I use it every where except at the compressor.
I have bee using this for 35 years in commercial refrigeration on both hi and low sides. Best use for this is to install txv’s or solenoid valves especially if they are brass. Your turbo torch tip was way too big in the first shot and flux is not needed inside the fitting. Been told by Harris reps that this joint will have a higher burst pressure than a brazed joint where the tubing is weakened and I can see why. Once on a project years ago at Merck Pharm plant this was an accepted alternate to brazing. They had some of the most stringent regulations of any place I have worked at. If you use this correctly this stuff is great.
Thanks for sharing!
I did a install at Loctite and the engineer insisted i braze 4” copper chilled water lines what a pain in the ass. I wanted to use Vic I almost quit
I need a job
I went to a hvac community college in Henderson, Nv., and they taught us to use solder, in copper connections… Thanks 🙏
One of my fears with using a solder instead of a braze is that since solder has a greater difference from copper than the standard silver rods, a wet and corrosive environment could allow electrolosis to eat away the solder. Ice-O-Matic's copper evaporator plates fall apart very quickly because the solder they use corrodes away much faster than the braze that Manitowoc uses. So I would say be mindful of this possibility when environmental conditions are rough.
Using it for years. Good stuff.
I started using that in 1984. Works great great
Harris reps came to a local supply house in 1985-86 and demonstrated how to use StayBrite soft solder. One of my coworkers installed a refrigeration system using StayBrite 8 but had to reinstall the pipes because the customer complained that the pipes were not brazed, only soldered.
@@picklerix6162 Sounds like people laugh out loud
Thanks for the video. I been using staybrite 8 for 3 years now .. just like any skill it requires patience and practice .. making sure pipes are cleaned inside and out. Don’t overheat the joint !!! Most importantly.. the weld is solid and clean. Don’t see myself going back to brazing any time soon.
Thanks for sharing
I got units I put in 20 years ago with staybrite
Do you wire brush the female ends to clean them?
FYI: It's not a "weld." You're not melting and mixing the pipes.
You're using it for HVAC piping? What happens to the flux that mitigates into the system??
Something to remember is that the copper needs to be very clean copper to make solder properly hold and use light flux , light heat, and should only need to use the width of the outside diameter of the pipe in solder (1/2 inch of pipe uses 1/2 inch of solder ) 🙂
Thanks for the tips!!
The flux would be a no go, due to acid, use acid away b 4 start up.
@@drg424 a no go with flux lol
Great video. Thanks for doing this Dave!
Of course. Happy skiing ⛷️
I use stay bright 8 also on installs. You should also wipe the joint off to get to any left over flux off.
Awesome thanks for the tip 👍🏼
Thank you very much for an informative video and info about the Harris products. MAP gas is not the same as MAPP gas. Mapp gas production ended in 2008. When you buy MAP, you're mostly paying for a yellow can. From wikipedia: "MAPP gas is widely regarded as a safer and easier-to-use substitute for acetylene. In early 2008, true MAPP gas production ended in North America when production was discontinued at the only remaining plant in North America that still manufactured it. However, many current products labeled "MAPP" are, in fact, MAPP substitutes. These versions contain mostly propylene with some propane, dimethyl ether is included as a 3rd ingredient in some versions.[1] [2]"
That’s good to know
Man another great vid for us diy'ers! Love when you break it down for what you know what diyers are going to have in their sheds! Thanks once again sir!!
You bet!! Cheers man
I've used and love it when you gotta sweat a TXV in. Low Temps help prevent the brass from overheating and lessening up the capillary tubes. I will say I have seen these fail easier under vibration. So I wouldn't recommend using it directly at the compressor if you ever do a change out. Also, like another comment said. Wipe down your fittings really well afterward. I've gone to units where the Flux wasn't wiped off, and it eats away at the copper. Then you'll start getting pinhole leaks.
Awesome tips from a pro. Thanks so much!
or you could just do it right and use 56 and a wet cotton rag 🤷♂️
Flame is far to unstable Get a proper torch tip
I always use an old Flux brush and wipe the joint when complete. Makes for a more professional looking joint. Believe me..... I've seen solder joints that looked like RAY CHARLES AND STEVIE WONDER did them.
🤣
When soldering you need to heat the parts, not the solder otherwise your joint may be cold (and weak). Keep that flame away from the solder. To clean the parts before joining use an abrasive pad for the male part and a brush for female. Don't scratch them with whatever you used. After soldering clean the flux residue with a wet paper towel, rag or anything. If left there will corrode the pipe or at the very least look bad.
Thanks for the tips!
It was painful to watch. I like your explanation on proper technique. 👍
In 7yrs I’ve only used staybright 8. Wet rag is definitely worth it. Get the spin swage too, works great. Everybody migrating to propress now.
Have you used Propress for Hvac ? Just wondering if any issues .
Kinda looks like the amount of heat you would use on a water line ( plumbing) application. I may be wrong. If it is, this method is much better idea than brazing. I am a plumber and currently in HVAC school and just been trying to get as many pointers and different methods as possible. Thank you for this video. I had never heard of Stay Brite 8.
Great information. I am going to try this out!!! Thank you.
Let me know how you like it! Cheers
I see what you were talking about, love the demo. I need to start using mine
Thanks bro 🙏🏻
It’s all I’ve used for the past 10 years, no issues ever
I’ve been using Stabrite 8 for almost 50 years,I use stay clean liquid flux in place of the paste.I braze the two fittings on the compressor but Staybrite on everything else,I use Map gas.
What brand MAP are you using? I understand original MAPP gas production in 2008, and what is sold today are substitutes, and I wonder if they are still hto enough for this silver soldering?
Thank you for your videos. Been limping along with a 52 year old Bryant gas furnace in the basement. Have kept it going over the years. Must have been built well. Had to replace the fan motor and transformer a few times. Need new ac too. Thinking about getting a whole new Goodman system this spring and putting it in myself. Your videos are a massive help.
If you need help with your install, check out our Patreon membership at Patreon.com/diyhvacguy where for $25 you’ll get one on one help with sizing, purchasing equipment, warranty, as well as help with any install questions. Cheers! Dave
@@diyhvacguy I will do that! I think the furnace will be pretty straightforward, but I’ve got a ways to go learning about the ac install.
If you're not EPA certified you shouldn't be installing the AC portion. Have fun with the furnace though.
Very nice, the more you practice the cleaner and neater your solder joints will be, you don’t need to apply so much heat as when brazing. The pipes shouldn’t turn black.
Can't over emphisise that!! Copper shouldn't turn even blue for that solder. You heated the wrong side of the joints! You must heat the socket to draw it in.
Have used stay brite for years and was used a lot in refrigeration equipment where you can’t use as much heat that is needed for Silphos
This Stay Brite 8 is Absolutely Fantastic ! I only use Silphos 15 if I have a larger Gap that needs to be filled.
I need to pick up some 15% braze rod. I've heard really good things about it, but i'm excited to implement the staybrite 8. Its not as hard to work with as people make it out to be.
@@diyhvacguy The # 8 is nothing new. It’s been on the market for at least 20-25 years. It is more sensitive to prep than Harris 15. There are cheaper versions of rod. Some don’t contain any silver, and you can break the rod like a pencil. I would stay away from anything that doesn’t contain silver, or a small amount of silver.
EXCELLENT WORK, THANKS FOR SHARING
much appreciated for doing this..! was always wondering what you thought about staybrite
Well now you know! And according to the comments a bunch of others do as well!
Believe it or not, all the guys at the supply house say it’s not advise, always to braze. But that’s why they are pushing pencils while we are making the real dough haha
Thanks for all time and effort you put to your videos for us newbies like me “apt tech” can learn every day. 🙏🏻💪🏼 quick question does this brite 8 and the flux can be use to braze when replacing a compressor too? Sorry is the question is to basic but Im just learning 🙏🏻
It’s not advised as it vibrates a lot close to the compressor. Probably better to braze close to the compressor.
That’s cool. Thanks for sharing this.
Thanks for watching!
Do you clean the inside of the fitting also? Like plumbing
@The DIY HVAC Guy ... I like all the videos I have watched. But, how to do these things on a horizontal pipe? My fridge return line has a pinhole. I was going to cut it out and use a coupling you recommend. However, that return line is horizontal. And, do I have to vacuum the system? Etc? BTW, I have a cheap gauge that will be sufficient to recharge. I just have to get one of those clamps to attach that pierces the line. TY in advance!
I have used StayBrite 8 and the white flux for 40 years. Never a problem
Wipe off your excess solder with a towel while it's hot. Also not sure how well it works for hvac application, but in plumbing I was taught to brush the area down (after soldering) with flux while it's still very hot. This cleans all of those burn marks and what not. Then wipe it all down with a towel when you're done. $0.02. I'd still rather braze, but not having to use nitrogen is a plus, never thought about soldering hvac lines before.
I had a refrigerant leak in a condenser tubing/fitting that I had soldered together (not too well) a few years ago. I told a tech about it. He said, “Braze it.” So I got my torch, brush, flux, solder and resoldered it, doing a better job of it this time. Pressure test: No leaks (PTL).
Next time take your time and solder it right the first time
Staybrite 8 has always been a good product. A couple of tips for guys,1) wipe the excess flux after inserting the joint, 2) heat the pipe first, then move the torch to the fitting to draw in the solder into the socket. and of course if you have a large gap don't use solder, it not a good filler material like sil-fos 15
Thanks for these tips! From someone who has actually used it lol so many guys bash it because they don’t know how to use it.
What happens to the flux that mitigates into the pipe? That's my question.
@@deltaf222 Use a small coating of Stay clean flux and wipe the excess. If your really concerned with it, you can flush with hot water, Use your compressor/nitrogen tank to blow the line out before your vacuum. Vacuuming removes the moisture anyway. And you should be nitrogen testing your joints also.
@@jmac213stuff Flushing out refrigeration lines with water?? Never, ever, ever, ever do this!!! Dear God.
@@deltaf222i have the same question... Cant find answer anywhere
Just finished installing a Goodman split heat pump successfully, but I did a few tests on the Stay Brite 8 solder connections first. Sanded both inside the fitting and outside of the pipe, and just fluxed the male end. Complete fail, and I tried it twice. When I reheated and pulled them apart, the solder only bonded to the male part of the pipe, the inside was completely void of solder except for a few specs here and there. Tried a third time on a new test piece with a THIN layer of flux on both the inside and outside and both were nicely covered with solder when heated and unsoldered. Your example might have worker because you put a TON of paste on the male which then probably oozed onto the female side, but that defeats the whole "keep flux away from the refrigerant" idea. Another thing I noticed when I soldered the liquid line at the air handler was a bead if loose solder at the bottom of the included 3/8" elbow at the air handler. I pulled it out before tightening the gasketed nut at the fixed orifice, but that was concerning. I made sure I soldered all the connections (extra filter/dryer on the liquid line, 7/8" 90 degree elbow and a swaged piece of 3/4" to 7/8" pipe on the suction) starting at the end farthest away from the condenser so that I could shake out any loose balls before the final solder, but I didn't see any. I also didn't over apply solder, tried to follow the 3/4" length for a 3/4" connection rule. Pressurized to 350 PSI with nitrogen and soaped the connections, then vacuumed to 40 microns and everything looked good. Time will tell. I highly recommend your last suggestion in the video where you flux both surfaces lightly, I would never flux only one side after my experience.
This is great knowledge to have. Thanks for your input sir
@@diyhvacguy You're welcome, glad to share my experience. And thank you for helping us DIY types with your very informative channel, the HVAC industry is so closed and secretive.
A little off topic, but I noticed the nice white lineset insulation in the background. Is that factory provided with the line or available as a wrap? Seems much better than the old black stuff.
I have been using this product for years now with no problems. It has a tensile strength of over 10,000 psi. A Harris representative at an air show told me this product is actually stronger than Silphos . I only use mapp gas and it is very quick.
Awesome! Thanks for sharing
How about using it on mini splits instead of flares? Wont the flux cause issues?
I've never tried it, but I am going too now. This product could not be any worse than using a push connect or a zoom Lock. Hell it might be stronger.
Great video I just tried it for the first time I did a few practice joints to get the hang of it . I think the biggest part of this is to have a clean joint and the right amount of heat with a tight joint . The only thing that scares me if you get to much solder in the joint does not sick and locks up a compressor not sure if this could happen
Not compressor i scene guys use stay brute 8 on expansion valves and over add solder and there will be balls of solder in the expansion valve. Great product use it all the time. Doesn’t do well with vibration.
Did you release the refrigerant in the condensing unit before soldering?
I am the manager of a R&D HVAC test facility. I can tell you we have used this in the past, however we stopped for a couple reasons. 1. It can/does fail under high pressures. 2. Joints can fatigue over time and the hold is less secure. 3. There have been joints that blew apart during testing (after being in operation for months) causing a loss of refrigerant and very dangerous situation. The copper will violently swing away from the broken joint and could hurt a tech or puncture a coil. We no longer use this for any test application. I wouldn't use this in a home where it is intended for long term use. However, I did want to say I do really enjoy your videos and appreciate the time and effort you put into helping others. Improving the tools and skills of those who install the products helps EVERYONE!
Agree. Been in this business for 28 years. Commercial and industrial. This is a joke! This guy should not be putting this garbage on KZhead.
Illegal as Hell! It melts at a way lower temp than brazing Rod! Good luck in a commercial setting when a fire breaks out.
It's not pipe BTW. It's called tubing. Rookie
I agree 💯 this Garbage this method is for plumbing low pressure water high pressure isn’t work.
I'm 62 years old I've used this stuff ever since it come out if there was a leak it's because the guy probably didn't do it right Has to be exceptionally clean and flux right and heated right
I could be mistaken but I believe all 410 condenser installation manuals refer to brazing refrigeration lines. You don't want Flux mixing with refrigerant. Obviously people have been soldering these lines. It could be an issue if there is a warranty issue. Not installed to there specs. By all means do what you're comfortable with just saying.
Yep, fixed plenty of leaks from people using it it r410a systems but I have also seen plenty of r410a systems that did fine with it. Just depends who did it. I prefer brazing, also brazing can still look good if done right
did hundreds and hundreds like this - used a map gas torch rather than a turbo torch - nice job
Yellow turbo torch is mapp gas. Blue tank are propane. Turbo torch is just a brand name.
We used Staybrite 8 with an acetylene torch to heat it for decades....up until the use of 410a refrigerant and the higher pressures and temperatures that go along with it.... Staybrite 8 is certainly a much cleaner connection, but we found that it does not hold up well when making the freon line connections at the compressor itself... and it was just seemed easier to have 1 set of torches and brazing method for everything...
I use map gas and my tips are 100 dollars
Yea kinda wondering that as well… Dude said it’s stronger than brazing which is absolutely not the case at all whatsoever. Assuming he misspoke because soldering is never stronger than brazing…
@@codythompson9035 actually silver solder when done right is stronger than brazing.I've been installing ac's for over 20 years and I've never brazed .I've never had a compressor failure. I've never had a line break, dude I've seen units 20 years old hanging on a cliff and never broke. and were staybrite soldered
@@rodeoclownobama5796 I repair commercial/industrial HVAC systems as well and you would be literally the only person I’ve ever heard claim that soldering is stronger… Have at it
@@rodeoclownobama5796 Also never had a compressor failure? I’ve seen brand new package equipment shipped with a bad compressor to begin with… The bs is strong with this one… 👌
How does this do in the long run on 410 systems
Super informative, clear and concise the included materials recommendation is awesome. Thank you I going to replace a corroded liquid line in my GE fridge DIR'R
I use this Mapp Gas with a Turbo Torch Tip and does Wonders..🤟😎🤟
Flowing nitrogen through your pipe stops Oxidation from inside the pipe... I would actually love to see a joint cut open and compared against a nitrogen joint. You don't use a pocket knife for deburring? Solder flows towards the heat because of a tiny vacuum/low pressure gap thats created by the heat expanding. Heat the male end first, and the move to the female and gradually bring the heat up. Your technique was spot on. Flame in left hand, solder in right. These video are excellent!
When soldering is done right both methods produce similar pipe interior appearance and zero oxide formation. Heat is not a thing so it cannot expand or contract, the solder flows into the joints because of capillary action, for this reason the joints need to be tight fitting as solders in general have poor bridging capability.
I've been using it for 25 years on everything but dissimilar metals and I think the biggest advantage is the way it flows down into the joint farther. 15 stick doesn't flow nearly as well and you have to worry about hydrogen embrittlement of the copper. Just my opinion
Best kept secret in the industry I've been using it for over 15 years
That's good to know.
That's what I used When I installed A Brand New A/C 2 ton unit by Goodman...... 7-years ago......no issue but I did Vacuumed it and used Nitrogen
Amazing. Thanks for sharing
I have used the Stay Brite for years and with Zero problems. I have had units that were brazed in by someone else and the brazed joints all leaked and failed - so much for brazing. My Stay Brite Joints have lasted over 25 years and going. Yes, you have to prep and clean the pipes when using this or you will have problems - I am certain that is why folks have problems with this, they don't clean properly and are used to brazing where you don't have to clean as well some don't do any. Yes, use the right flux compatible and refrigerant friendly, no glob, try not (don't let) to let any flux into the line set, wipe off the outside of the lines once cooled down. Great video!
Thanks for the feedback! I'll definitely implement those things you mentioned as well :) Cheers
Braze joints all leaked and failed? If this is the truth they were using the wrong brazing rod for the application.
The penny trick is a first for me but a really good idea
Can't understand for the life of me how HVAC guys don't use Staybrite 8 almost exclusively. The low temperature it flows at means that you don't have carbon build up in the pipes (no need for nitrogen purging) and you don't weaken the joined metals from high temperatures (annealing). You don't have to worry about cooking thinks in the vicinity such as service valves or plastic panels (unless the panels are really close by). Melting plastic surroundings is a big concern in domestic refrigeration repairs. Some people claim that it's weaker in areas of vibration. Can't argue that but my experience and manufacturers claims say differently. If your experience differs then use alloy brazing in areas of vibration such as compressor connections. Yes it's more expensive but the benefits mentioned earlier make it worth the extra cost to me. You do have to clean and flux. It's not forgiving to poor prep. Very forgiving to proper prep You do need tight fits because it flows very thin and that is a big reason many guys prefer alloy brazing because you can fill in some relatively big gaps. Another reason many guys prefer alloy brazing is because that's what they have been using for years. Reality is that our innate resistance to change is the biggest reason we don't want to try something different unless forced to do so and then often we wish we had done it sooner. That's how I felt after trying Staybrite 8 Btw, difference between Staybrite 8 and regular Staybrite is that Staybrite 8 is a little more expensive (20 buck basically) because it has a higher silver content which means it has a temperature "range" at which it will flow so you can (if you know how) use that ability to fill in gaps in minor loose fittings as it gets thicker at the lower tempeature flow point, whereas regular staybrite has a single temperature flow point.
Thank you for great idea! Can I use powerful soldering iron for this?
There are electric devices designed for plumbing but using a torch is much cheaper and easier to use.
Can you use this on a 4 ton residential HVAC system 7/8 line set
Great video pal
Thanks brother!
What is the rated pressure that this is advertised to hold. Trying to complete a 410a job on a 40 ton unit. I may give it a try
My friend tried that couple of years ago and got alot of call backs luckily 410a wasn’t expensive lol
It’s possible he didn’t do it right 🤷🏻♂️
@@diyhvacguy im sure it will work great for refrigeration
so would you recommend using this method or those R410a connectors you showed last week? Ive sweated lots of plumbing pipe in my day, never HVAC lines though
Don't do it especially not for 410 systems this guy doesn't know high pressure systems are to be brazed.
I’m sure you will trust this rando commenter over me, but Staybrite 8 joints hold more pressure then brazing. Look it up. I’d recommend Staybrite 8 over the crimp tool as many folks have used Staybrite 8 and had a leak free joint for over 30 years. The only time this shouldn’t be used is close to high vibrations so right at the compressor. Hope this answers your question. Cheers
@@diyhvacguy awesome.. I have an LG Minisplit to install in a few months on the new shop I'm building. Id prefer a more solid connection to the line set than using flare nuts. Staybrite 8 my just be the ticket I'm looking for.
@@diyhvacguy This is soldering not brazing and you can’t say is stronger than hard brazing let alone insurance related to light flammable gases in refrigeration and AC industry…..so yes you could do like DIY job for your own use but not like professionally in industry
Stay-Bright 8 is great stuff. Your tip was waaay big for the size of lines you were soldering, and it appears you actually got the tubing a little too hot (very discolored when you were done. But otherwise, nice demo...
Despite everyone saying not to use Stay-Brite solder I decided to anyway on a DIY HVAC install. That was 7 years ago and the unit is still running good with no leaks. The Stay-Brite solder is awesome!
Amazing. Thanks for sharing!
Just be sure it's the Staybrite 8 Harris and not one of the many other solders they produce.
I wonder why so many techs use hi heat braze and yet more often than not don't flow nitro to prevent sooting -- bc it's more work / hassle, and TVX clog failures happen 4 - 6 years later, past warranty. Could it be? : 1) This is how they were trained 2) Brazing rods are cheaper, Stay Brite8 is expensive 3) The belief that brazing is stronger more secure under vibration
It does not hold out forever linesets are better off with braze which is why you’ll void most manufacturers warranty with silver solder
@@roberthernandez1985 That's exactly what everyone else said but here we are 7 years later and no leaks so I still don't see the advantage of brazing. Plus, it appears that most of the lines on the compressor are soldered from the factory so it does not make any sense why those can be soldered but the line set needs to be brazed.
This stuff is great for a diy. I assembled my system 2 years ago, works great no problem. It's as easy to use as a regular plumbing solder
awesome! Thanks for sharing!
Great answer to stay brute 8
I see a lot of comments about using it in residential. But could I use it for commercial refrigeration? (i.e. coolers and freezers)
great job
Anyone know if this technique can be used on other metals than copper? Copper to aluminum, aluminum to steel etc
Interesting product. I like the fact that you don't need an expensive oxy acetylene tanks and equipment. I noticed you didn't clean the inside of the fitting like you would with plumbing soldering. Looks like it may not be required or only needs cleaning if the fitting is really oxidized ?
Yea, I will probably get one of those inside cleaners just to make sure everything is good to go as it is a nightmare if the solder doesnt take. You cant just braze over it. But being as this was a brand new unit, i primarily just needed to clean the side that was super oxidized. Thanks for the feedback! Dave
@@diyhvacguy you are using FAR too much heat in your example unit. Soft solder is tricky to use. The heating needs to be done slow and easy. You did better on the example joint in the shop. However, you spot heated, which leads to gaps in the joint and seams in the solder at the molecular level. Your technique will improve over time, but you need to evenly heat the joint. Around the entire connection.
@@diyhvacguy when done properly, the solder will wick instantly around the entire connection. So strive for that.
Any thoughts about an inductive heater for joining pipes--whether it be soldering or brazing? They seem like the most sure fire way to go about evenly heating a pipe regardless of the size, and there is no open flame
@@jacobcarson2559 hmmm. I dont thing inductive heaters work unless the pipes are ferrus... made of iron... copper wouldnt be heated with one.
If only we could use that on Co2 systems and K65 copper 😂 I’ve been brazing joints for 8 hours straight on some installs haha
great video thats the product i want to use. Should u sand inside the female ends of the fittings?
Yes, I do, I use a wire brush sized right for the pipe (for soldering copper plumbing you do the same, so I use the same type "bottle" brush). You need to have both the female and the male cleaned with emery cloth (sanded) or wire brushed, then apply the flux (whether brass or copper). I just apply the flux to the male end, don't glob it on like he said, you just need to coat, the when you insert, you won't get flux into the pipes, when you heat up the pipes the flux will flow all around and you are ready to flow the solder, put the heat up both pipes and then just apply heat on the joint near the back - the solder will flow towards the heat. I have never had a leak or fail using Stay bright, I think those that do, don't clean properly and flux. You have to clean well just like in water plumbing pipes.
Yes in hind sight I should have. I’m going to start using the inside cleaner tool that’s has metal bristles.
What about if i use staybrite 8 for solder a refrigerator?? The compressor and lines??
Just used stay brite for the first time and I am sold!
Hehe awesome man
I will be changing the way i braze after watching this
Remenber what he said, fitting and pipe must be straight and perfect I tried it in the past it’s ok except when things aren’t perfect and straight
What are those copper lines called ? Condensing lines? Great vid.
I have nothing against Staybrite 8 for repairs on txv's, reversing valves etc, but you might want to check your equipment install manual before using it to install your outside unit. Most every manufacturer says it must be "brazed" when installing the condenser. The local and state inspector made a local contractor here re-install a whole subdivision for using Staybrite 8, because of the manufacturers instruction manual
That sucks. If you are doing a ton of homes then yes, definitely check that. That was very unwise of that contractor not checking that.
could you use this to fix leaks?
Hey man, does that soldering may resist heat pump pressure as 400- 500 psi?
Many people have used this for 410a. tensil strength is over 1000 psi
This is a great update on a process to avoid brazing. Now if we only need the nitrogen to do a pressure test, is there an alternate nitrogen regulator and hose you can recommend in your store instead of the $250 one that does not include the tank? Thx!
Any of the amazon stuff is ok for one or two timers. If you are pro go with victor or turbo torch regulator. Or go to proper welding gas supply and get what they have. I waffle on the good or cheap stuff. Depends on what you are doing. One or for life.
There’s no alternative unfortunately. You def don’t want to use compressed air for pressure test. My recommendation is go to your local airgas and see what the smallest tank of nitrogen you can lease would be. Then you’d need a regulator and obviously a manifold gauges set.
@@diyhvacguy I know the nitrogen regulator and hose is needed for a pressure test, I was wondering if you could recommend one on Amazon that works with the manifold you spec in your Amazon store. It might be cool if you had a "bare bones" idea list bundle of minimal equipment needed for a one unit replacement ...what the avg DIY job would need A-Z e.g. Pipe cutter, Harris solder kit, map gas torch, manifold, vacuum pump etc? Getting that list down to a minimum takes your knowledge & experience. Cheers
This is very nice, basically if you know how to braze plumbing pipes this method should work for AC lines with minimal adjustment. Do you have to use MAPP gas or regular propane torch will work too?
I've just heard mapp gas does better but I would assume you coudl do it with propane as well.
I think MAPP gas is a lot hotter...
I have a 2 ton LGRED Minisplit to install in a few months on the new shop I'm building. Id prefer a more solid connection to the line set than using flare nuts. Staybrite 8 my just be the ticket I'm looking for.
It could very well be! It’s amazing, just make sure you do the prep work 👍🏼
Minisplit on heat goes up to almost 600psi I would like know if holds that amount of pressure
Man that water in the background made me want to take a piss. 😆 🤣 😂