BMW X7 G07 FRONT BRAKES BRAKE ROTORS & BRAKE PADS HOW TO SERVICE CHANGE REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE
2023 ж. 6 Шіл.
7 648 Рет қаралды
TORQUE ON THE BOLTS HOLDING THE CALIPER TO THE BRACKET IS 110NM. THESE BOLTS ARE RECOMMENDED TO BE REPLACED EVERY TIME AND THEN TORQUED WITH THIS 110NM.
BMW X7 G07 FRONT BRAKES BRAKE ROTORS & BRAKE PADS HOW TO SERVICE CHANGE REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE
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I performed this today. The video covered everything perfectly. In case anyone is wondering you will need a new sensor for your brakes. The problem I had is that there were all kinds of faults after I changed the brakes and the brakes didn’t work well. I took it the dealership and they said there was a leak in the system, but the advisor thinks they meant that fluid spilled out of the master cylinder from pushing the caliper pistons back. They said there was air in the system but that doesn’t make sense to me since I didn’t open the system. Then they had to use their computer to reset the sensors. The advisor said it should have been put into a service mode prior to doing this job but I haven’t been able to find any good info on how to put it into this service mode. After the dealership worked on it the x7 seems to be running perfect again. Thanks for the great video.
SERVICE MODE IS ONLY FOR THE REAR BRAKES! IT'S BECAUSE OF THE ELECTRICAL PARKING BRAKE ACTUATORS THAT NEED TO BE MOVED TO ZERO POSITION ELECTRICALLY BY THE VEHICLE AND THEREFORE OPEN THE REAR CALIPER PISTONS SO YOU CAN INSTALL THE NEW BRAKE PADS. THE STEALERSHIP LIED TO YOU! ALSO YES THE PISTONS PUSH THE FLUID BACK INTO THE RESERVOIR BUT YOU DON'T GET AIR IN THE SYSTEM! THEY LIED TO YOU AGAIN! I DON'T REMEMBER RESETTING THE SENSOR WITH OUR COMPUTER AND I DIDN'T SEE YOUR CAR TO UNDERSTAND WHAT ACTUALLY HAPPENED SO CANNOT HELP ON THIS ONE. AFTER MY SERVICE THIS X7 IS STILL DRIVING PERFECTLY AND THE OWNER IS VERY HAPPY BECAUSE THE STEALERSHIP WAS ASKING 2 TIMES THE AMOUNT FOR THIS BRAKE JOB COMPARED TO WHAT HE PAID WITH US! ANYWAY LET ME IF YOU OTHER PROBLEMS AND I WILL GLADLY TRY TO HELP YOU! THANKS 👍😊
Bmw x7 is still relatively new so there is not too much diy content to be found on the KZhead. But this is the best instructional video regardless of the subject I have ever come across. You are very talented as a teacher and I will come back regularly to check on more content. Thank you and keep up the great work !!!
There was a very complicated situation with this particular vehicle because it was serviced at the BMW dealership and they screwed up the engine oil pan and quoted them that it will cost thousands and thousands of dollars! The owner came to us and we managed to fix it for a fraction of that quote and that's how he is now committed to come to us to do the rest of the services. Please find the other videos on this X7 and check them out. Please also stay tuned because I will be posting anything else I do on the vehicle. I am also indeed learning some things myself but I tried to use my brain more so that I can make sure that I do the best job I can and therefore actually try to help you guys that are watching these videos! Feel free to check my other videos just in case 😁 . Thanks very much for your support and don't hesitate to contact me if you have any questions or doubts... 👍
Thank you for this video. It was very helpful. I did this on my X7 M50i last week. Hardest part was to remove the pins. I realized the pins have some grooves that get stuck on the brake pad clips so if you press the clip down just a little bit then its a little easy to pull the pins out. Same when you put the pins back in. Also, you need to press the 4 cylinders on the caliper till all the four cylinders are all the way in. You can just keep pressing them and the thing with this is that when you press one in, the others will pop out slightly. but as you keep pressing them eventually the break fluid will go back to the reservoir and all cylinders will be all the way flush with caliper walls, This will make it easy to install the break pads. Also, I noticed there was a sticky pad on the new break pads and some of the sticky pad was stuck to the cylinder heads from the old break pads. I had to clean it up. Another tricky part was the routing of the sensor wires. It kind of interferes with the break fluid lines if not routed correctly.
Yes, this is why I did this video in detail because all of these have to be done with precision and specific order. Yes also on the pads where they have to pressed altogether or they will keep popping out individually otherwise and you will never get them reset to zero position. I am Happy I was able to help you! Thanks for your support! 🙏 👍
Thanks so much for this. Made the job go by fast and everything he said is accurate. The change I do when I do the brakes w/ the sensors is I just cut the actual sensor at the pad... Install the rotors and pads and then replace the cable and seat the wear sensor into the pad w/ a flat head.
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Can you make a video for rear break and rotor change? Same car x7.
Yea I will as soon we get a car here for the brakes... Thanks 👍
I followed this one. Just did the fronts and the rears and between the two videos everything was perfect. kzhead.info/sun/araRpaanpJ2no4U/bejne.html
I'm about to do this job just waiting for caliper pins to arrive. I appreciate your video, it gave me confidence to order parts. I am wondering why you put the anti seize in the lug bolt holes? Also do the rear brakes have caliper pins too? I bought 395 and 370. Hopefully the right setup for my car. I'll try to follow up on my success...
The reason I try to smudge the Antiseize is because it helps with the parts not to get rusted and start accumulating rust. I have seen the situation of messed up lug bolts many many times because once they get rusted they don't come out easy and also create a huge problem when installed. Normally you would need to torque the lug bolts but if the are rusted this will never happen and actually you could end up destroying the bolts or the lug bolt holes! The Rear Brakes don't have the pins as they usually have just the guiding bolts. Good Luck on the parts and yes sometimes you may have to buy a few different parts to find the correct one unless you buy these from the Dealer. Good Luck with your repairs and let me know if you have any other questions! Thanks 👍 and good 🤞!
@@projectathos I ended up failing. Disabled suspension via cabin button, put it in the air. Did the front left wheel just like you did. Got the sensor disconnected, got the pads seperated, and pulled the first pad. Realized I bought the medium pad while I should have bought the large one. Put it all back together with original parts, and back down on the ground. Had like twelve fault codes and only front left and rear right brakes worked (the one I touched) . Took it to the dealer and let them do the brake job. So I still got parts for next time. Either I didn't do something right procedurally or I needed to reset some codes. But the car was very very unhappy, and the brake circuit I believe to be opposite the one I touched was disabled. Dealer did a solid I guess though and didn't charge me any extra.
I just went through the comments. I may be wrong but I remember reading somewhere that on modern cars it is best to push the brake pedal a couple of times after performing the break job to take up the slack in the system BEFORE starting the car. Otherwise the vehicle seems to think that the excessive pedal travel is caused by a leak and puts it into safe mode, with all sorts of warnings. Could this have caused the problems of the two commenters below? Thank you again for the video 😊
You will actually have to compress the pedal a few times before you start driving the car anyway because the pedal becomes very soft after you doing this service! The pedal will go all the way down when pressed and by instinct any person will try to compress it a few times more or at least I believe that is what is expected. I'm not sure what the people in the comments did wrong because I wasn't there and couldn't see the mistakes happen if there were any mistakes done. Nevertheless I have had the situation where I had to get my scanner and reset several times the warning lights on BMWs specifically in their Brake ABS modules after doing this service but it hasn't happened all the time. Maybe on some BMWs this is expected to be done not sure. But at least you can do the service yourself and go to a shop to reset the lights which will still cost a lot whole less than paying for the whole service to be performed by the shop! Thanks and Good Luck!👍
Thanks for the video. I do own 2020 BMW X7 M50i. Need to do front and rear brakes and rotors. What brand would you recommend to go with? If I’m not buying them from the actual BMW dealership. My car has Blue M calipers
Hi , not sure which part of the world you live but there a couple of websites here in the US where you can check the Brands for these Brakes that are available. Brembo and Textar are one the Biggest companies that I have seen to offer Brake parts and they also are the OEM Manufacturer for lots of German Car Brands. I guess you can choose based on your budget or just depending on what you can find. I didn't see a huge choice here in US on these anyway. In some cases I have ended up buying these from the Dealer directly. You can always write to me later and ask me what choices you have and then I can recommend one for you. Thanks👍 And Good Luck 🤞!
I bought my parts from pelicanparts. Here is how I chose my parts below. X7 xDrive40i: Fixed 4 piston front 348×36 + rear 345x24, lightweight ventilated Towing package or MY19-20 xDrive50i: Fixed 4 piston front 374x36 + rear 370x24, lightweight ventilated X7 xDrive40i / MY19-20 xDrive 50i + option 2NH (Blue or MY21 Black): Fixed 4 piston front 395×36 + rear 370x24, lightweight ventilated X7 M50i, standard 2NH (Blue or MY21 Black): Fixed 4 piston front 395x36 + rear 398x28, lightweight ventilated
Hey guys - love the video and comments. I'm about to do this on my 2020 X7 M50 this weekend. Basic question, when pressing in the pistons, should the cap on the brake fluid reservoir be open to allow for the pressure or should the system remain closed?
You can open it but be careful because it will spray all over the place and Brake Fluid is famous for damaging paint and similar. It is advisable to open it slightly but make sure that you install some rags around it. I always forget to do it 😁 but the fluid leaks out anyway so no big deal. Just remember that it will leak under the firewall so make sure to have something on the floor if you need to... Thanks 👍
Can you do a rear brake replacement on the G07? Or have you already posted one? I have a x7 m50i.
I will post a video as soon as we get one of these at the shop! Other people are asking also... Thanks 👍
That would be awesome!
Are the Rear brakes Identical for the X5 or 740i?
I would say that they should be similar to the X5 but I haven't done these yet so not sure. One Extremely Important thing before start changing the rear brakes is that you must prepare the Rear Parking Brake Actuators into a Service Mode and I believe this is done through the menu in the cluster. Otherwise you cannot actually do this job! I will a video as soon as I get one of these cars at the shop... Thanks 👍
@@projectathosI’m not aware of being able to put the rear brakes into service mode via the iDrive (my car is a G30 5 series so may well be different) but in most cases you would do this with a scan tool, or Bimmerlink can do it your phone or tablet. Obviously you can do this with ISTA too. There is another way to do the rears if you don’t have any of the above. You can unbolt the EMF actuator which then exposes a gear drive for the piston, using a T45 torx bit, you can then unwind the gear drive by turning it clockwise until it stops, this then shows you to push back the piston. This is for the rear single pot floating caliper I should say. Hope this helps.
Is that Brake Caliper greaseable or what was that grease head for?
I am really sorry that I am going to say this - I don't know what grease you are talking about but I can only guess you are talking about the Brake Fluid Bleeder Valve and in this case if you don't know what it is I highly recommend that you should stay away from cars and especially a complicated vehicle like this new BMW X7... Unless you are watching this video for pure entertainment reasons then it is completely fine... I am sorry again but this question is very very strange... Thanks...
Who told you I don’t know anything about the cars? You also have horrible explanation skills in the video, you don’t even mention how to retract the pistons on the caliper. Ar the same time your using the screw driver to pry the pads out and people will end up destroying their rotors. So clearly you’re the one who should stay away from the X7… I can teach YOU a thing or two.
You never gave the factory torque specs of the caliper mounting bolts
The Torque is 110Nm on these bolts and it's also recommended that those bolts are replaced every time. Don't ask me why... If you are going to reuse those bolts then I would probably do them around 90 to 100Nm. Thanks and Good Luck 👍🤞