#tyrellknifeworks
In today's Triple-T (tools, tips and talk) #160, I'll be using the HouseMade LaunchPad replaceable fire brinks in my forge and testing them out
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Clearly superior to firebricks, and thanks for bringing this to our collective attention.
Thanks for looking, Bryson!
Always impressive seeing the swirl your burner and forge produce.
I’m quite happy with it! Thanks for watching!
Excellent demo on this Denis! I appreciate the video bud thank you!
It was a brilliant idea to create these. I think they’ll do really well. 👍
Simple and brilliant! How has nobody thought of this before now?
I know, my thought exactly! Thanks for watching
What an awesome concept! Brian is awesome! Thanks again for sharing this with us Dennis/Brian!
Thanks for checking it out, Stephen!
Brilliant work 👍👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Folks, in case someone may be interested, here is my update: I made a brick out of 1:4 mixture of satanite and perlyte (what I had handy) and covered it by a 2-3 mm layer of pure satanite and let it dry for a week or so. The brick turned to be fairly solid. I used it 6-7 times so far without any issues. It heats-up quickly, like yours, Dennis, and keeps the heat well. Again, thank you for the idea!
That’s great, I’m glad it worked out for you. Thanks for watching.
Thats a great idea Brian! Thanks for sharing it with us Denis. Definitely going to look into these.
It’s a great upgrade! Thanks for watching.
Seems like the wells might also allow heat to swirl beneath the work piece. Brilliant stuff!
Yes, perhaps, but that's minimal. The real benefit is that the bricks are insulating so they don't suck any heat away from the workpiece. Thanks for watching.
Very interesting! Thanks for sharing Denis!
Thanks for taking a look!
Great info. Thanks!
Thanks for watching, Rodger!
No such thing as coincidence, I was just looking for the best flooring for a forge welding forge. And not only do those wells collect the flux, they allow airflow under the stock to heat the bottom a bit more than a flat brick. Tell Brian he's awsome for me please.
Ha, yeah they are a pretty cool idea! Thanks for watching!
try turning these new plates over. otherwise it’s not clear whether the substrate (cavities for flux) does not cool down due to incomplete contact or due to another material but in any case, the heating rate increased greatly, great job!
But who cares, if it’s the wells or not, they work better. Thanks for watching
The wells on the top are actually what's keeping the thermals in line, because you still have heat being able to circulate under the work piece while it's being supported.
I guarantee you if I flip these over, you’ll see the same result because they are insulating unlike the hard firebrick. It’s just like the shell of the forge which doesn’t get a cold spot when you lean something against it.
use green case first as a layer, then apply a thicker layer of the cement that is the best for insulation. You then get a hard top which is thin, and super good insulation underneath protected by the harder layer.
It's really not worth that much effort. Any of the 3 castable refractory choices are light years ahead of hard firebrick. Thanks for watching.
We need a clickable Lego version of these bricks for building temp ovens in odd shapes for powder coating. ...that break down easy to be stored until next time needed in small foot-print. (thinking old plastic milk crate sized)
Haha, that might be a bit of overkill, but ask Brian. 😉 Thanks for watching
Nice!!
Happy ThanksGiving, Spencer!
@@TyrellKnifeworks and happy thanksgiving to you as well!
Действительно рабочее новшество.Благодарю за идею.воспользуюсь.
Я рад, что это было полезно. Спасибо за просмотр!
Realy interesting results. Just was wondering how much gas your using for a forging session on welding tem. My ribbon burner forge uses like 11kg in 5 to 6 hrs and i was wondering if that is too much
Yeah that sounds about right. I’m probably using 20 lbs in that time and get about 5 sessions of continuous forging temps. Thanks for watching.
Im building my forge my self. What would you recommend for my forge? I plan on doing Damascus a lot and my forge is a 6 burner v shaped burner set up.
I would do a ribbon burner and go away from any Venturi burners. Watch my forge build video here for ideas: kzhead.info/sun/q7Bxp8V8qXmMn5E/bejne.htmlsi=SHzp6SFIT3WcPQ5h. I hope that helps.
Is there a mold type that could put a lap joint in the forge or just one long brick?
I’m sure you create a wood mold that would allow you to pour one long brick. I think it’s overkill, personally. Thanks for watching.
Hey Denis, I have a Chile Habanero 2 burner forge which I have been hesitant to use flux in. Do you think a custom size mold or launchpad replaceable bricks could be made for my exact application?
If you have a 3D printer you can get the STL file from Brian and then modify it a bit. I did that on mine to make the bricks slightly longer. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks thank you!
Happy Thanksgiving, yo!
Happy ThanksGiving, Issac!
Holy cow!!! Well time to warm up my 3d printer asap!
Wait... I have a chili forge... how can I make this work?
Go for it!
Is it more narrow? What’s the issue?
@@TyrellKnifeworks its just way to long that there is nothing in the middle to support it. Usually there is a single piece of ceramic bridging the gap.
@@gilbertmckown6161 I don’t understand. I’m looking at the chili forge site and they look like pretty standard forge. Do you have a vertical forge or something else?
Very nice. Shame I don't have a 3D printer, I'd cast a few and give it a whirl. $30-40 for something I can use leftovers in my shop for is a bit rich for me.
You could probably make a mold from wood and half-round trim in a pinch. You still need the refractory though, that’s the expensive part unless you have some already. Thanks for watching.
I am guessing that the channels allow the flow of hot gasses to go underneath the work piece…heating from both sides and keeping the new bricks hot at the same time.
Yup, and act as a catching system if you use flux. Thanks for watching!
Any chance Brian can make a mold that is about 12 inches long? The reason: myself, and I suspect many others, need a good fire brick that is over 9 inches long to span the roof of their gas forge (when all bricks are 9 inches long, and a forge is lined with them, how do you get the roof portion to be supported well). I’ll buy some now.
If you have a 3D printer, just buy the plans from him and stretch the STL to your desired dimensions before you slice it. That's actually what I did because I wanted the bricks a bit longer than what he had. If you don't have a 3D printer, find a buddy that does. 😉. Thanks for watching.
Got to have some of them fast lol
You won’t be disappointed! Thanks for watching
Do you think that satanite would work for casting these?
No, it’s way too brittle. You need castable refractory not spreadable stuff. They are totally different. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks Thanks for clarifying.
Just curious: would a mix of satanite with perlite be any better? Thank you for sharing the idea!! @@TyrellKnifeworks
@@glebtcheslavski1085 not really. Order yourself some kastolite30 or Mizzou.
23 hours?
What are you referring to?
The timer was, left to right: minutes, seconds, milliseconds. Just like your standard old school stopwatch.